Bike Repairs

>>1055863

if the spanner is tearing shit up you can use a hammer + chisel and tap each notch in the nut

you'll need a different spanner to get into the dimples.

do you have a tool to get the crank arms off, you'll need that to replace the bottom bracket

>>1055863
Also, keep in mind some parts are reversed threaded. You could be turning the wrong way.

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>>1055863
>My crank arm/set makes a noise whenever I apply my weight to it. Not sure if my bearings are bad or if the bracket holding the bearings needs to be tightened.
>
>In any case I'm having trouble removing it. What tool can I use to remove it? I've used one of those cheap tools that come with the bottom bracket but it's just tearing up the groves.
>
>Pic related.


creepy crank arms are normal, I wouldn't start fucking with bottom brackets as well if you dint know what your doing.

I used to BMX for 7 years and the cranks get bent and creaky after so much. not really sure why the creak but I'd leave it alone if I were you.


I always liked the creaking noise it makes to be honest.

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>>1055971
You're a moron. If you're getting creak, it means something's not tight. Loose parts eventually lead to walking home. Walking home sucks.

>>1055863
Ist the noise actually creak or something else? I would actually suspect your cranks before your bottom bracket (unless the BB has a lot of slop). Try torquing your crank arm bolts down first, see if they come in at all. If your cranks are good and tight and it actually is the BB, look into replacing it (new spindle, bearings, grease - cheap once you have the tools). Sounds like you've got a wrench, but it might be worth it to pick up the Park wrench (HCW-5). Worth the $15.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbadj.html

When I used to work on my BMX, creaking cranks was usually due to shitty grease application to the crank spindle.
Bearings should be fine, but if you can remove the crank arms and lay some more grease on the spindle, the noise might clear up. Bearings are cheap, so if you want to replace them while the arms are off, it wouldn't be a bad idea.

>>1055879
>some parts are reversed
^^^this

Without knowing anything about a bike or its parts, you can always tell which way a nut or bolt should turn to tighten.
>if the part is is attaching doesnt rotate, or has a second locking nut, then it will always be righty tighty.

>If the bolt is attaching something that always rotates in one direction then the bolt will tighten in the direction of rotation.

i.e. the crank arm bolt:
Stradling the bicycle, the right hand side will be righty tighty. The left hand side will tighten to the lefty

>>1055863
bmxmuseum.com

They have excellent and busy forums.

>>1056099
It's a creak and the the whole crank/sprocket assembly wobbles, I'm able to move the crank arm up and down from one side and see the other side move up and down.

Also the tool you have in your pic is what I used, didn't work. Kept sliding off if I put too much of my weight, even used a hammer to tap the tool lightly. Still didn't budge and kept sliding off the notch.

>>1056227
I tried loosening it both directions, no go.

>>1056499
Bottom brackets on cheaper bikes are prone to binding because of galvanic reactions on dissimilar metals.

You may need quite a bit of force to break it.

if the whole crank is wobbling then you need to get it torn apart. You'll probably need new races and spindle.

Bottom brackets are threaded towards the front of the bike. These shit tier bottom brackets have special tools to remove. I usually bypass the special tool and grab it with plyers. Swap it with a shimano square tapered. They are cheap and relatively bulletproof. Also comes with sealed bearings. just make sure you get the right size. Dont bother overhauling with grease and new bearings. Theres zero benefits except maybe 5 dollars saved.

Left side cup with plyers/whatever will get a massive grip.
Right side cup should have 2 flat sides. Plyers usually slip off and pinch your fingers(Auch). Just put it in a vice and turn the bike