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Desk Joinery Problems

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Thread replies: 30
Thread images: 12

File: desk-0004-overall.png (65KB, 1364x862px) Image search: [Google]
desk-0004-overall.png
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I've designed this corner desk in sketchup. Pretty simple when you look at it; three C shaped legs, a frame, a tabletop and skirting between two longer spaced legs to keep it from toppling if leaned on. However, I'm running into quite a few problems that I need some help solving.

>problem 1 - skirting to leg joint
From what I've read the best way to go about attaching the legs together would be a double mortise and tenon joint on the top/bottom of the vertical piece. However, this then creates the issue of how the fuck I'm meant to attach the skirting to the bottom legs when there's a tenon going two thirds of the way through its thickness.

I'm (probably obviously) a beginner to woodworking and this is the first project I've set out to do. I really like the design of this desk and I've customized the overall dimensions of the desk to utilize the best amount of space in my room. However, I clearly need as much help as I can get with all the joinery and wouldn't mind any suggestions to the design. I'm still not sure if the short side of the desk is long enough to justify even having a corner desk but it seems like the best way to make use of the little space I have in my room.

Will be posting various pictures of my design to the thread, with dimensions for your reference. And if need be I can probably upload the sketchup file somewhere.
>>
>>1054948
>more on problem 1
As you should be able to tell, the double mortise and tenon joint keeps the legs held nicely together. However, it leaves me no room to attach the skirting to the leg without fucking the whole thing up
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File: desk-0004-large-leg.png (42KB, 818x887px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1054951
>more on problem 1
This is just how I've attached the two sets of large legs together for reference. The 'large legs' are the set on the left and the set in the back corner; they are both 'large' because they are an extra 50mm in length compared to the 'small' set at the front.

Hopefully that makes sense
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File: desk-0004-leg-lowerjoint.png (45KB, 1417x923px) Image search: [Google]
desk-0004-leg-lowerjoint.png
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>>1054954
>more on problem 1
Here's the dimensioning for the lower joint in the legs
>>
File: desk-0004-frame-overall2.png (86KB, 1534x905px) Image search: [Google]
desk-0004-frame-overall2.png
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>problem 2 - frame to leg joints
From what I've read the best way of attaching the frame together would be single mortise and tenon joints. However, this creates a similar problem to #1 because it seems the best place to attach the frame to the legs would be really close to the mortise and tenon joints that are keeping the frame together, thus making it overall weaker and prone to snapping on those critical edges.

The picture shows where I'd probably want to attach the frame to the legs. But they are also the exact same places where the frame is keeping itself together with mortise and tenon joints. Thus, giving a similar problem to the first where an existing joint is preventing a second joint being created.
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File: desk-0004-frame-joint-problem.png (101KB, 1557x929px) Image search: [Google]
desk-0004-frame-joint-problem.png
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>>1054957
>more on problem 2
Just a closer, dimensioned view of one of the circled areas with a few hidden faces of the frame so you can see inside of the joint
>>
>problem 3 - frame cross joint
This would probably be the easiest of the problems to solve for an experienced woodworker. There's a cross-joint in the inner corner of the frame that I'm unsure how to attach. Making a hole straight through would severely weaken the piece at a pretty critical point. But not cutting deep enough into the piece for the two connecting pieces will end up weakening those pieces.
>>
File: floorplan.png (35KB, 808x895px) Image search: [Google]
floorplan.png
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I can take more screenshots with different views and dimensions if need be. I can also just upload the sketchup file if a seasoned /diy/er is willing to help or anyone just wants to look at or improve it.

As mentioned the design is pretty much completely up for change if need be.

In this picture you might also notice that I have an extra 170mm to extend the shorter, corner side of the desk outwards. Fuck my life, I knew I should have double checked that, well, more space to do shit on the desk I guess.
>>
>woodworking
>metric system

seems to me you're over thinking it; it's a desk
>>
>>1054974
>metric system
Just what I'm used to working with, no one uses imperial measurements in Australia
>seems to me you're over thinking it; it's a desk
Maybe so. I feel like I may have designed to wood to be too thick. 800mm x 800mm seems okay for the legs if you actually measure it/draw it out, but 400mm x 400mm for the frame might be overkill. Something like 400mm x 200mm might make more sense.

However, it is going to be holding up a 34" ultrawide monitor (once I can afford it), and a pretty heavy PC, plus a bunch of other really small things. And it would be nice to know that someone could sit on the edge, or inner corner of the desk and not have the whole thing snap because of it.

Despite me maybe over thinking things I'm pretty sure the problems I've run into still stand as legitimate problems.

How do you suggest I design the desk or improve my design?
>>
>>1054979
if you're that worried about the weight, add a brace or use squares instead of C's

run boards along the top undersides on the frame sides against the wall

also should consider whether it's going to be permanent or not
>>
>>1054974
I don't get it? Who would use an obscure "used only on the other side of the pond" measuring system just because of the material?
>>
>>1054974
>american
>so fat cant even see the desk
stop swimming in your shit and go see a doctor
>>
>>1054983
>if you're that worried about the weight, add a brace or use squares instead of C's
What do you mean by a brace?

And square legs don't look as nice (in my opinion) and they stop me from being able to like swing around on a chair through the middle of the legs. And most of all, square legs really don't solve any of the problems.

If I can get solid joints in my current design it should be more than fine with a decent amount of weight - it's just figuring out the best joints isn't that easy so it seems

>run boards along the top undersides on the frame sides against the wall
Not really sure what you mean here, maybe paint up a shitty diagram if you can? If you mean anchoring it into the walls of the house that's not really an option

>also should consider whether it's going to be permanent or not
The desk will be here for at least the next 3 years, and can always be reused if I ever move anyway
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File: imige.png (159KB, 1534x905px) Image search: [Google]
imige.png
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>>1054997
it's going to be a lot of extra work to do all those joints by hand, and for the top frame, completely necessary

see imige for professionally produced diagram

>can always be reused if I ever move anyway
make sure the door is big enough to get it out
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>>1054948
the latest matthias video is very close to what you are making

https://youtu.be/4t_PZXvzAUg
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>>1055002

Those diagonal braces don't make a whole lot of sense, yes his initial design puts a lot of stress on the top joint. But also on the bottom joint, which you don't fix.

The whole thing is simultaneously over and under-engineered at the moment IMO. Compare with this Ikea desk. With that awkward horizontal leg gone on the right an office chair can move around a lot better underneath the desk.
>>
>>1054948
Three comments:
1) you don't need such a sturdy horizontal frame under the tabletop. I have built a table of similar dimensions (1200x1100mm), the tabletop is a shitty 25mm fiberboard and is still completely stable just sitting on the leg frame (just legs and skirting). It has four legs tho. Holds a printer, a speaker set, two LCDs (2x22inch), a beetle terrarium, a notebook and various tools and shit.
2) consider making the tabletop wider. 60cm is pushing it. Your requirements may be different, but I wanted to make sure I can fit an LCD, a keyboard and an A4 sheet or a notebook (as in PC) on the table width comfortably and still have some armrest space.
3) The C leg frame looks a bit wacky, especially the third stand on the shorter part of the table. I'd use T or I-shaped leg frame instead. You could save floor space and allow your chair to move freely using an I-shaped frame, because the bottom parts of the legs would not have to be so long. The general idea would look like the Ikea table anon posted here >>1055002, but using three legs instead of just two.
I'd also consider bolting the edges to walls.
And I'd really consider reusability/movability, so the joints between tabletop and frame and even the legs themselves should be preferably screw joints. The tabletop can be attached by some smaller screws to metal L shapes bolted onto the leg frames. The legs and skirtings should be proper nut and bolt joints.
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File: ae235.jpg (13KB, 330x330px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1055044

> And I'd really consider reusability/movability, so the joints between tabletop and frame and even the legs themselves should be preferably screw joints. The tabletop can be attached by some smaller screws to metal L shapes bolted onto the leg frames. The legs and skirtings should be proper nut and bolt joints.

I like insert nuts, easy to use and hide. Just have to be careful to put them in straight, they have a habit of abandoning the predrilled hole and choosing their own path. For the one in my pic I'd just take a hacksaw to an Allen wrench so you could put it in a drill chuck and use a drill to drive in the nut.
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>>1054979
Do you mean 80mm x 80mm or are you actually planning on using an 0.8mm beam for the legs?

Are you a giant?
>>
>>1054979
First you said:
>no one uses imperial measurements in Australia

Then you said:
>However, it is going to be holding up a 34" ultrawide monitor
>34"
I think that's an imperial measurement...
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>>1055190
Guys are we seriously arguing about which measurement system people are using now? Also monitors are measures in inches worldwide in case you really can't tell
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>>1055191
>monitors are measures in inches worldwide
so imperial measurements ARE used everywhere.
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>>1054948
That right/front "foot" is unnecessary and will only cause issues with a chair.
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File: OPsTable.png (17KB, 1126x724px) Image search: [Google]
OPsTable.png
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>>1054948
This will work better OPee

Everything is in groups already and joints are there.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/damtufewip56aii/OPsTable.skp?dl=0

Pic related.
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>>1055223
>that flexing top
>those bars at the feets

need a beam for the long top

also no need for the bars on the ground
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>>1055233
If you don't understand the purpose of those bars on the feet, why do you feel entitled to post your false opinion here?
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>>1055237
those bars serve no purpose, and you are a fucking piece of shit, your design is also shit
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>>1055244
Okay.. If you build it your way exactly like THIS without braces and it doesn't wobble itself apart, ill paypal you 500 bucks.. Because it will...
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>>1055259
If you are this stupid, google four legged desks
Thread posts: 30
Thread images: 12


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