Water leakage from outside wall

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The """floor""" before laying concrete

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I just now realized I didn't tell you why first thing I needed to "rebuild the wall", and which wall I was referring to.

One of the interior walls was collapsed when I bought the house.
This is presumably because of the extremely humid environment; the mortar was so crumbly it could be broken off the bricks by hand.

Here's shot where you can see the wall being built.

You also get a lovely view of the sewage pipe in the unit next door.

>>1053096
Man, and here those Europeans would have you believe that their brick homes were indestructible. Brought low by shitty building standards.

There is a known good solution but you are not going to like it. You have to rebuild the wall and seal it from the outside. That means you have to dig the dirt away from that wall and put a heavy duty water sealant on the brick after you rebuild it. I'm not talking something you buy in a paint can and put on with a brush. I'm talking the real deal. You have to rest a sprayer and it goes on like a coating of asphalt. The fact that the building is 5 stories has nothing to do with the solution. You can't fix the problem you have with half measures.

>>1053105

>Man, and here those Europeans would have you believe that their brick homes were indestructible.

But well, they are. Only the basements were built like this right after the war, to speed up construction times.

>That means you have to dig the dirt away from that wall

Like I said, that's not an option.
I can't just dig a hole in the backyard.

I mean I guess I could, but it would cost me a goddamn fortune.
Possibly more than I paid for the entire house. I'd rather have a watery wall.

It won't fix the overall humidity issue anyway, unless we reseal the entire building.
To do that we'd have to dig around it on all sides, including the road side, and that's never going to happen.

>>1053115
Well, you bought a lemon then. This is the foundation of your home. It's falling apart. The situation will not improve unless you correct the underlying problem. Anything that you do will be a temporary fix.

>But well, they are.
Except when they aren't. My shitty inferior American stick framed home was build in 1951 and the concrete foundation and wooden structure are is fine shape. Its was a super cheap home in its day to boot. There are plenty of homes in my town that are over 100 years old and made with brick basements and stick framing. They were built right. Yours was put together by someone that was either lazy, cheap, drunk or a combination thereof. So either fix the problem, which is going to cost you, or kick the can down the road and hope you catch the next failure is causes before it compromises more than just an interior wall.

>>1053125

This isn't a foundation.

The building is a concrete frame style, so these walls aren't supporting anything.
They're just there to keep the backyard out.

Also there was an issue a while ago (before I bought, and I didn't know this when I bought...) where a high pressure canalized underground stream ("bialera" in italian, no idea how it's called in english) burst and dug a massive hole under the building.
Nobody found out until someone went down to get something from their basement and it wasn't there anymore - there was a hole with pretty much a river running through it.

Probably woulda shat myself tbqh kek


Anyway government officials and firefighters supervised the works as the pipe was sealed and the hole refilled, and they found no evidence of structural degradation caused by the incident.

A literal fucking hole was dug under the building's foundation and it still didn't move an inch.
Some water seeping through a wall isn't gonna do anything.

Dumb ass idea to throw out there. On documentaries about building big things, I saw whats called a slurry wall.
You dig something out and keep it filled with slurry or "mud" to keep it from collapsing, then rebar cage is put in and concrete poured.

Wonder if you could do something similar, with earth auger, dig a post hole deep enough to pour in reinforced concrete pillars that eventually link up together. Probably far out there, but just random shit.

More realistic is that you do something like soil nailing from inside the basement to do something like one of these

1. coat everything with waterproof shit and reinforce it with plates bolted to those soil nails / earth anchors

2. use them to anchor a new block wall inside that you waterproof as you build

3. waterproof wall with goo/sheeting/etc then pour concrete wall into frame held up by those soil nails and internal bracing.

Realistically though, could you not pound in perforated pipes outside (pvc with holes drilled along it) to make it easier for the soil to drain down instead of seeping at all levels. OR enclose wall with inner wall of sorts.
Either way, you're just looking at making the water drain down into an area you can have a sump pump, instead of it just seeping through wall all over the place.

Dumb ass ideas, but maybe inspiration?

>>1053096

>I also thought about using one of those polymer-based paints on it but I'm worried that water will still seep through the wall, get trapped behind the paint, and make a mess of everything.

I realise it's painful, but why not take the plaster off? You can get polyester sealant you can put on a brick and mortar wall.

>>1053181

>Realistically though, could you not pound in perforated pipes outside

It would be a pretty clever idea and probably work if the outside was just dirt, but it's concrete and in a very inaccessible location as well (under someone's balcony at ground level).
I don't know where the water is coming from exactly, but it's not from the backyard itself, and not only when it rains. It hasn't rained in at least a week and the wall is still very wet.
Maybe the rain drains are leaking into the adjacent ground and keeping it moist all the time or something.


Since it seems the most agreed upon solution is to build an impermeable barrier on the outside, and that's not happening, I think for now I will try with the forced air circulation, since it's the most painless alternative I can think of.

If I can decently insulate the front door and pipe air at the bottom of that wall, it will force a draft back up to the window and this might be enough to keep it dry.

If it's still not enough, I'll try with those polymeric paints. They're supposed to be very waterproof.

If it still isn't enough I'll probably either give up and leave it be, or glue some heavy duty PET lining to the wall and floor and plaster/concrete over it like you suggested.
It's the only way to create a true water barrier without digging out the yard.

>>1053215

Because I put it on two weeks ago and I'd rather kill myself, kek.

Also the underlying wall was shit, I would never be able to seal every little crack effectively.
It would probably work just as well applied to the plaster though, and be easier than the PET lining I was thinking about.

Might be worth checking out.

Do you have water coming up from the floor, or just the wall?

>>1053227

Unless the plaster is porous enough to allow the sealant to glue it to the wall it will get pushed right off.

>>1053232

Just the wall.

Can you plaster it with Hydrocrete?

Some BS ad copy:
forms a positive, high quality, integral protective barrier against mass water penetration and is warranted if used with our Water Trek system. When minimum down time, high pressure resistance, coating strength and longevity are major factors in choosing coating suitability, Hydro-Crete™ Sealer can be used on all types of damp interior or exterior, above or below grade, masonry surfaces including concrete, brick, various types of masonry block, mortar, stucco, adobe, cast-stone, or sandstone.

>>1053096
>water through non bearing brick wall

Find out where the water is coming from, and divert it away from your building. Then dry the area with fans and dehumidifiers, and rebuild the wall.

>>1053508
Second. Why was this solution hard to come to?