Brake shoe "rivet"

>>1052916
Post pics of new shoe, preferably assembled to the point that you got stuck.
Weird setup.
I'm not sure exactly where the issue is.
I see the adjuster lever on the pin pivot with a retaining clip/rod over it that the spring also uses as an attachment point.

File: DSC_0087.jpg (4MB, 3840x2160px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1052924
Thanks for answering. Here are some pictures the pin can be seen in the old shoe

File: DSC_0088.jpg (3MB, 3840x2160px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1052924
Close up of new and old pins

>>1052916
Drive the pin in with a hammer, carefully. Use a socket or something similar to put the retaining ring on.

>>1052916
>old shoe, it's a hollow pin with a zig-zag line cut into it
>>1052916
>new one it's a straight line.

The zig-zag line is so there is no place for the inserted wire to 'fall in'.

Orient the new one so the slot is away from the direction of pull on the spring.

They are called 'drive pins' and designed for an interference fit. (they're to be driven in)
The slot whether zig-zag or straight allows them to compress enough to fit into a hole of smaller diameter than the loose pin.
> .260 pin into a .250 hole

>>1053003
This.
You don't want the pin flush on the backside, it can work itself loose.
Hopefully its long enough that you can match the height on the front side and still have a little bit sticking out the backside.
You might just be able to press the training clip on with a flatblade screwdriver.
Don't kill yourself trying to make this "flawless", its a single device, not a super collider.

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>>1053003
>>1052924
Thanks for the replies. I used a drift punch thinner than the pin to drive it in using the shoulder of the punch.
I haven't checked the orientation of the slit, but I didn't have time to put the drum back on anyway, so I will check it tomorrow. Thanks again. :)
Pic not related.

>>1053010
Thanks for responding. I put the pin in so it sticks out equally far on both sides.
I just want to get it done and then never buy a car with drums again. I'm sure they were revolutionary on steam locomotives but too much work.

>>1053012
That set isn't that difficult. The new pin does the same thing just looks different. The other poster was correct in its installation. Mechanically the drum brakes are not as efficient as disc...but they do last longer if assembled and adjusted correctly. ..your set up doesn't really require adjustment except to make sure the adjuster is backed off....I've been doing drum brakes for years. ..have a lot of old mopars...try figuring out a fifties mopar...left hand and right hand threads and the drums are a press fit on a tapered spindle. ..then on the fronts they have dual wheel cylinders that are adjusted independently using a special tool. ...so your set up is cake by comparison.

>>1053090
I machined my drums to slip on instead of press fit.
Its nice to work in a machine shop.

>>1053003
>They are called 'drive pins'
Now that I think about it, they're more commonly known as 'roll pins' where I live.
They're made by 'rolling' a piece of steel into a tube shape.

>>1053090
Ellipsis...ellipsis......everywhere.....for.....no.....reason....

File: rear-brakes.jpg (48KB, 800x490px) Image search: [Google]

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Do these auto adjusters really work well? I fixed the rear drum brakes of my Toyota Carina recently, and it basically looked like pic related internally. So I figured to do away with the whole mechanism, and use a nylock nut instead of the serrated one. This involved buying another set of the adjustment thing since one is left-hand threaded. I will now just take of the drum every year when I change tyres, which is not hard to do once one prevents it from getting rusted stuck to the axle flange by applying a little grease. Then I will adjust the brake manually to the point where the drum will just barely spin freely. This will be less work then to keep the whole clusterfuck mechanism in working oder in an environment full of rusty dust. At least in my case.

>>1053536
how do you adjust the shoes with the drum off?
sounds pretty fucking retarded, why not just tie a brick to a piece of string. throw it under your wheel when you want to stop, pull it back inside when you want to go.

>>1053536
Adjusters work correctly if they have clean threads.
They only adjust when brakes are applied while moving in reverse.
I personally wouldn't do a manual adjuster on it, being out of tension means that they're not being applied correctly and not doing their share of braking.

>>1053609
>They only adjust when brakes are applied while moving in reverse.
Some models adjust when the parking brake is applied.

>>1053536

That's kinda buggered up there.
Clean all the junk off of the star wheel.
They do wear down and have to be replaced, but should turn easily. Avoid using any oil on the threads, that just attracts dust which gums it up. Graphite powder is ok,but in all honesty nothing is needed.

Also, adjust the new pads out till you have to really push the drum on. Makes things easier.

Generally to tighten you apply brakes while in reverse, release, re-apply. Some vehicles you pull the e-brake up several times till it starts to get harder.

And in all cases keep any grease off the pads or brake surface. Use a cleaner. Once pads get oil on them they are gone. This is really critical for "new parts" that have machining oil on them. Always clean the surfaces.

You can use a bit of 100 grit sandpaper and scuff up the pads, that will help them seat.. But it's not necessary. Just something I picked up from a guy that taught me how to do brakes.