Cordless Drills

>>1051122
Any corded or a couple hundreds in a cordless will be enough.
18v is enough, a lower voltage means that you need to put more money in buying it because only the top end low voltage ones are good.
And amp-hours matters. The voltage in a bigger battery will not sag as easily as in a small battery. You can tell the difference if you are using a 2Ah battery versus a 5.

>>1051126
ok, so either drill will be fine, just buy a bigger battery?

>>1051130
Probably. BUT

You have two rather different applications here. The miscellaneous things around the house is a good job for a cordless drill, but brushless Dewalt and 18V Makita are probably overkill for that. They would work for shop metalwork, but in a shop setting, the portability of cordless is less of an advantage relative to corded. You might consider whether getting two drills (a low-rpm corded for the shop and maybe a smaller 12V drill for around the house) would work better for you.

>>1051143
alright, thank you for the info. I think I'll just go with the Mikita and see where my life and interests go before buying a 2nd drill.

>>1051143
This. As much as I love the dewalt 20v set, you need a decent corded.

>>1051172
Yeah, I'd agree with this. Just grab a cheap corded drill for your shop to use as a your dedicated jig drill.

Then just wait for a sale on the cordless one for the house. Drills go on super sale like six times a year between Lowes and Home Depot. Makitas and the green Hitachis are both great drills, too. We've had all three here in the shop (in the 18V) and abuse the shit out of them... way harder on them than a homeowner. They're good for years till the battery packs finally stop taking a charge. Then we just replace the set, since new batteries is like 70% of the cost of a new kit on sale. All three would treat you well.

>Cordless tools
RUN FOR THE HILLS

>>1051130
A cordless that costs a hunnred and has a hammer is probably crap. A cordless drillhammer will cost a lot. So get a drill, not a combo as it will suck more. Anything in the 200-300 monies (probably both euro and dollars) will have two decent sized batteries, a proper charger and a drill.
My bosch was 2x5Ah + 6A charger, 250€.
But as anon said, wait for a good deal!

Brand doesn't matter that much but you will be at least partially married to that brand if you go cordless.

>>1051143
He said aluminum work not ss work, he wants high rpm for aluminum

Op, I've got the makita drill you're talking about

It's pretty good, better than horrible freight, but it's definitely no corded drill

And if I were buying dewalt I would avoid battery, just because they make some good corded tools

On a side note, the harbor freight 1/2" wireless drill isn't that bad, I've been using it at work for years and it's held up well

>>1051764
Additionally, makita invented the wireless drill, and they make some great ones, their impact driver is probably the best available from anywhere

>>1051760
He said 7075, which is a high-strength alloy that's less machinable.

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>>1051851
7075 is more machineable (less magnesium makes it less gummy)

Pic related

Notice the 7075 is the fastest to work on

>>1051853
You're right, I was thinking of something else. Just make sure the drill is torquey enough, then.

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>>1051122

For around the house get a cheap SDS hammer drill as well if you don't already have it. Putting holes even in cement with an ordinary drill can be aggravating. Let alone something harder.

>>1051882
> cheap sds
No

FUCK NO
Look up the Ikea sds teardown by ave

It's disgustingly bad, and it turns out the cheap ones are all ripoffs of each other

Buy a horrible freight drill press for ARs. You'll fuck it up with Jig/Hand Drill.

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-5-speed-bench-drill-press-60238.html

Get a dewalt or whatever you want for other stuff.

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>>1051886

Dunno about Ikea but my Parkside (Lidl) will put a hole in concrete just fine. Two year warranty too. That tiny battery won't last long, but it's for putting up shelving not constructing a house.

Alternatively if you really don't trust it, you can get a corded Screwfix Titan for 75 Euros. Which will outperform my dinky little Parkside to the same extent it will outperform a cordless non SDS drill. Of course it's a 5kg monster.

>>1051765
Nah. Modern Makita battery powered stuff is pretty generic. I work with a guy that has one of the originals though. That thing is tough as nails.

>>1051888
How the fuck do you people complete lowers with drills and presses? Doesn't it take ages? I have a lower hanging around that I love, but can't take the leap to complete because I'm scared to fuck it up. I have a drill press, a dewalt set, and a ton of corded drills, but none of them will make a straight line for the sides.

>>1051925
the better kits come with two guides to cut the insides to the two different depths you need. As long as your drill press table is perpendicular to the bit you should be okay.

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Try a magdrill?

>>1052625
Also works well for jobs around the house. Makes putting up pictures a breeze.

I'm a Hitachi guy myself, and I've had my dad's drill for number of years now, but what makes you want to go cordless?

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buy a Proxxon mf 70, it's made for milling

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I need something like this in cordless version. Id doesn't have to be too strong/fast, i need it for plastics. Any tips?

>>1051122
Mediocre Cordless Drill/Driver
$200

Lovely Corded Drill/Driver
+ 100ft 12g Extension Cord
$180

the choice is yours.

>>1052683
Hitachi makes a decent cordless rotary tool. I haven't exactly put it through it's paces yet, but I've been pleased with both of mine.

>>1051886

Cheap SDS is 100x better than even the best hammer drill

>>1052681
It's also 450 dollars you douche.

>>1052780
Not for the accuracy he will need for metal machining

Sds, especially cheap ones have too much slop for precision work

>>1052804
my bad, it seems it costs quite a lot less in Europe

>>1053057
How much less? That damn cheap even for a manual mill here in the US, but I haven't looked at the size of it. Even the decent Chinese ones run around 500usd.

>>1052804
>It's also 450 dollars you douche.

Guns are toys and if you can afford guns you can buy something far more useful first like machine tools. By the time you are ready to machine lowers you'll already have much more money in the rest of your gun collection and ammo stash.

Tools will make you toys, but toys usually don't produce tools. Poor fucks stay poor by buying toys when they should totally focus on tools.

>>1053855
>Poor fucks should manufacture guns and sell them
You're retarded.

>>1051122
I prefer dewalt to makita, but it can be nice to have the hammer drill, for making holes in concrete.

I have used the same dewalt 18v drill since 1998, but recently got an 18v dewalt impact, and now only use the drill for actually drilling holes, which I don't like the impact for.

I used the drill mostly as a screwgun, anyway, and the impact is a better tool for that.

>>1053884
Well. I guess you actually are retarded.

He said toys, not guns.

Tools are an investment that can produce more money and also "toys".

Guns are a money pit. They cost loads to buy, loads to use, and loads to fix. They hold their value, but the cost of running them outweighs the return on selling them.

>Poor fucks should invest their money more wisely.

>>1053151

Proxxon make micro tools. That mill is probably about the size of a 2L coke

>>1054544

MICRO miller MF 70

The accurate miller for delicate projects. Spindle speeds 5,000 - 20,000rpm. For work with extremely small cutters.

Stable grey-cast iron machine base, vertical guide and compound table. Free from play, readjustable dovetail gib in all axes. Die-cast aluminium arm housing, with 24-pin special motor (balanced). For vibration-free work at high speeds.

The triple slit, hardened steel MICROMOT collets cover 1 - 1.5 - 2 - 2.35 - 3 - 3.2mm. The table is fitted with 3 T-slots of the 12 x 6 x 5mm MICROMOT norm. An adjustable ruler scale eases the positioning of the workpiece.

Technical data:
230V, 100W, 50/60Hz. Spindle speeds 5,000 - 20,000rpm. Table 200 x 70mm with X-Y travel of 134 and 46mm respectively, with vertical travel 80mm. Footprint size 130 x 225mm and overall height 370mm. Weight approx. 7kg. The clamping blocks depicted are included too, but not the workpiece!

>Footprint size 130 x 225mm and overall height 370mm.
>5"x9"x14 1/2"

>>1051122
More info on the ar lowers please?

Also, no matter wtf brand u get buy a quality name brand and tons of lithium batteries.

Dont cheap out.

Also, 110v plug in tools are cheaper and tons more robust.

>>1054622
>More info on the ar lowers please?

What are gun forums? Is /diy/ the home of people too helpless to Google?

While you are at it, don't forget to read the ATF laws on manufacturing. You can't finish and sell lowers without proper licensing and a compliant facility and record keeping.

ARs are not expensive to buy.