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wood working general

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Thread replies: 40
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I'm looking to make some knife scales and would appreciate any input on which wood to use.

The home improvement place nearest by has small strips of Oak, Aspen, Poplar, Cherry, Hickory, Mahogany, Maple, and Walnut that should be just big enough.
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>>1050204
I love that guy, but he's definitely on speed. Nobody loves wood that much. Coming from a man who thinks tiger-eye maple and quarter-sawn oak is sexually arousing.
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>>1050204
Oak - not recomended for handles. The porous grain will soak up skin oils/water/dust/random shit and eventually look like garbage. Unless you want to finish it with 100000x coats to fill the grain. I may be exaggerating slightly.

Aspen - Never used. Should be fine?

Poplar- Boring wood, medium hard, very easy to work. Nothing special, nothing bad.

Cherry-Never used myself, but I've seen high quality work out of it. Finishes very nicely. Grain is both gorgeous and faint, so I recommend natural finishes like Tru-Oil to bring it out the best.

Hickory-Looks boring, but highly functional, very hard and durable. Slightly open grain, seal it well.

Maple-Easy to work, finishes light, very durable.

Walnut-Dense and solid, grain splits like a bitch, but if you can find and deal with working some curly grain walnut it's fucking gorgeous.
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visit knife making dot com (Jantz Supply) then look for the handle material link.

Otherwise cherry stained with lye, nickle/silver wire inlay and nickle/silver hilt
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How do I get this wood stain off without it being obvious
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If you are using small pieces, why not go for something exotic like cocobolo or ebony? In tiny amounts like knife scales the price wouldn't be prohibitive and make your knife look so much more special as opposed to some pleb wood like maple that people use for flooring.
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>>1050888
thank you very much for your input

>>1050916
thanks for the link, but for now, just testing the waters to see how it turns out

>>1050917
if you mean to fix that damage, you'd have to sand the entire top, then put on a new clear coat

>>1050934
I looked at some on amzn, but I'm not sure I won't completely screw it up...I'd rather try it with something cheaper first (with those species I named, the pieces are only a couple dollars and would be enough for several attempts)

some may find the common woods mundane, but after watching many years of antiques roadshow, it never ceases to amaze when they show a piece of nice furniture someone put a lot of effort into, even if the materials weren't all that special
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>>1050204
Op where you at? Ive got a nice piece of curly maple that I have nothing to do with. I can cut you a piece and mail it if you can't find anything you would like to use?
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>>1051027
MI

that's a nice offer, any pics?
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>>1051042
Its not deeply figured and its hard to get a picture of because its raw.. But I think with a French polish, maybe even some dye in the shellac. It could come alive. Oh and its

3/4" deep, and just shy of 2 inches wide. Its a cut off... So weird numbers.
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>>1050204
Pallet Wood.
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>>1051013
Oh shit,I was thinking i could dye it with coffee or something,I suppose Il get sanding then
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>>1051358
different anon. So from picture, what you've got is called haze. usually caused by water sitting on it, and osmosis going through the shellac so you have humidity on the underside. and it's trapped and never going away. this is the reason why coasters were invented, because condensation on a glass will cause a ring of haze eventually.
first off, scraping the finish off is way faster than sanding, especially if you if you do sand get one of those rubber cleaner blocks or an old tennis shoe, sealers tend to gum up sandpaper super quick and running it on the rubber pries it all out and lets you use the paper some more.
stripper is a thing too. especially if it's shellac instead of varnish (shellac was common until they came out with better varnishes, but that looks much newer so it's probably varnish).

It is...possible to just sand out the troubled area and refinish it. the problem is that it's basically impossible because both the wood and the varnish tend to change color slightly with age and light exposure, and sanding will reveal a fresh layer that hasn't been exposed. so different color.
there is a quick fix that i'd give MAYBE a 5% chance of working on yours since it's big. Which is use a damp paper towel and an iron and iron it down. the heat and moisture will soften some types of varnish, and there is a chance that you will be able to smooth out the air bubbles and 'stick' the varnish back flush to the wood.
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>>1050204
Mahogany, Maple, Walnut and Hickory are fairly good materials as they've got a bit of strength to them.
Oak is ok for larger tool handles but in smaller sections its a bit of a shit, Poplar is a bit soft- avoid, Aspen might be ok but not worked with it and Cherry is quite soft- however if you want to make stuff like wooden spoons and spatulas its quite a good timber.

Don't forget, you can stain timber. So something tough like Hickory can easily end up walnut, teak or anything you want really.
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>>1050331
His show has been going since 1979. A truly remarkable achievement.
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Im working with stone, but I assume the technique will be the same just with diamond bits and tools

anyone have any tips, instructions on how to make a pyramid from one block of wood/stone?
so that all face of the pyramid are equal and end in a point at the top?

your help is much appreciated
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>>1052108
start with a block, mark the sides, and cut?
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>>1052113
im trying to conceptualize it.

if one face on the block is going down to a point that is supposed to be at the center of the opposing face

like I don't think I can just put triangles on each of the faces except for top and bottom , and then just cut and have all the triangle faces of the pyramid come out even.
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>>1052125
>like I don't think I can just put triangles on each of the faces except for top and bottom , and then just cut and have all the triangle faces of the pyramid come out even.
why not?

https://hlee93001.wordpress.com/2014/11/05/process-for-make-a-pyramid-and-cone/
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>>1050204
Found a stick and tried carving it into a snek. The stick had a hole going through it so I coudn't carve a lot and the snek turned to be a turd with a mouth/worm.
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Hey /diy, should I make this cut?
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OP here

I have some dried maple that was split and planed, but I hit a snag when trying to cut it to the right thickness. Don't have a table saw, band saw, or scroll saw, but now starting to think about one.

I might try making a table for a circular saw though. Will have to get something decent for a top....and some hardware.
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Hey /diy/ I'm more of a /vg/ kinda guy. But I'm into fighting games and I've been interested in making my own arcade stick as of late. Now I would like a wooden stick which is why I'm here. I was wondering what kind of wood you guys would recommend for a controller that will often be sitting on a persons lap, be somewhat tough because of constant use which all the button presses or the occasional fall, moisture and humidity aren't a issue since it'll be inside all the time. What would you guys use personally for something like this? I know pic related is Oak and could probably kill a man or support a sagging roof in bad storm

Here's a video that inspired me and I believe this guy uses Iroko wood, or at least I remember glancing at it on his website and I don't quite remember honestly
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhEtE6EWKPk
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>>1053764
Sorry I lied, THIS stick uses oak, the last pic is also the Iroko wood one
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>>1053767
I uh can't help you, but exotics are always nice. How much do people dish out for custom controllers?
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>>1053768
It varies greatly, more often than not people will buy a stock controller and depending on brand you're looking at $120-$180 before actually modifying, which can involve things as simple as new buttons and new analog and a new picture on the front which all really cheap stuff and will run roughly $20 for simple things like that. If you start getting into electronics and wiring you add another $80 easily depending on the electronics. But from scratch it's hard to get any real numbers down.

So in short for a custom controller $200-300 is about average, but people can easily get to an upwards of $500 if they want ALOT of customization
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What are some practical ways to upcycle sawdust?
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>>1053776
mix with wood glue and press it into some kind of mold.
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>>1053768
Starting with items such as cigar boxes is pretty common too and a decent way to save money, people have used things like pizza boxes and other crazy things to make their own sticks
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>>1053776
fire cakes
compost
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>>1053780
Get some cheap tupperware shit and some spare lids. You can use that to build the arcade stick and find a layout you like. Then copy the layout to your final designb made out of wood.
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I keep a bucket of sawdust around as a cheap way to clean up oil spills. Though it may not work as well as some of those oil zorb sweep cleaners bags of those are expensive as hell.
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>>1050888
Just to add,
Poplar is very "flexy", its used as snowboard cores.
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>>1053780
Honestly, that's pretty cool.
I have an itch to play Mortal Kombat II for some reason.
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Wondering if someone could point me in the direction of some decent woodworking resources.

I've designed a real nice desk, set of shelves and set of drawers in Sketch Up, but I don't know enough about woodworking to competently implement the joinery into my designs.

Would make it that much easier if I could put the holes in exact position in my designs, etc, etc; but you obviously need to know why, where and how to put the whole in for a specific joint.

Any sort of beginner woodworking joinery resources would be nice if anyone knows of them. Also, something that maybe explains the various common types of wood, sized and shapes and their various advantages/disadvantages. Maybe even common ways of finishing wood as well, just a general overview on everything you'd need to know to build a decent set of shelves, drawers and a desk.
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>>1053969
if you need that much guidance, I'm guessing you don't have any of the kind of tools you'd need to make something like that, which is going to end up making it all that much more expensive

if you do go ahead; practically anything you'd ever want to know can be found by simply searching for it

what you're going to need to know will depend on how involved you want to get; there are a thousand ways to make a drawer, cost/time/effort will vary

view other woodworking threads: https://warosu.org/diy/?task=search2&ghost=yes&search_text=woodworking&search_subject=&search_username=&search_tripcode=&search_email=&search_filename=&search_datefrom=&search_dateto=&search_op=op&search_del=dontcare&search_int=dontcare&search_ord=new&search_capcode=all&search_res=op


top notch videos: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=New+Yankee+Workshop

https://www.youtube.com/results?q=woodwright%27s+shop
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>>1053969
Hav you thought about buying a book about woodworking? It looks like most of your problems will be covered in books like "basic woodworkning" or something similar. Maybe you'll find something here:
https://openlibrary.org/search?q=woodworking&has_fulltext=true

Also, here's two favourite /diy/ YT channels:
https://www.youtube.com/user/PaulSellersWoodwork
https://www.youtube.com/user/Matthiaswandel
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Recommendations for a temporary work bench?
I'd like to get a project or 2 done in the garage before it gets cold, and would prefer to not spend 100 bucks for some junk at the depot.
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>>1054091
Saw horses, two 2x4s, and a piece of 3/4 plywood.

Get these types of plastic sawhorses with the notches for laying 2x4s across the board, which makes the hole thing super sturdy. I laid the mitor saw across the thing when I built my deck and I was thinking the hole time "damn this is strong".
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>>1053776
>What are some practical ways to upcycle sawdust
give it to a tile guy
wet sawdust is GOAT for grout haze removal from natural stone tile
Thread posts: 40
Thread images: 12


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