So I broke a lot in my cars engine a couple months ago. Long story short, the camshafts have a lot of wear, my pistons are chipped, and valves are broken. I have 2 camshafts, and 6 pistons, and was looking to make something cool. I was thinking a lamp with the pistons as feet, and the cams as the shaft. Any ideas?
How are you planning on running the wires?
>>1049328
That's the part I just cant work out. The shafts aren't hollow, so possibly just wrapping it around or something.
>>1049334
>That's the part I just cant work out.
You have two camshafts - one hot and one neutral.
>>1049336
That could work of he used a LED.
>>1049338
Or enclosed them in a plexiglass tube...
pic only sorta' related
>>1049340
That kinda ruins the aesthetic. He could coat it in something, maybe epoxy.
>>1049323
Now, I'm not normally the type that subscribes to the theory that everything on /diy/ should be shoved up your ass... but camshafts do seem uniquely suited for ass-shovin'. Just saying.
>>1049341
Shellac would probably do well.
>>1049340
redone
>>1049365
He wants the pistons as the base.
>>1049365
Run an acrylic tube in the center for the wires?
Bond the wires to the back of each shaft. Would only be able to face front that way though.
/nerd - is there a cheap, readily available induction transmitter that could transmit 120v over the 18" of the shafts (base to socket) without causing stupid amounts of interference?
If you use both cam shafts one can be positive the other negative then you would be able to hide the wires
>>1049365
this with a regular edison base lamp socket
>>1049338
>That could work of he used a LED.
This. Use a 12VDC edison base RV LED lamp
Instead of the 120VAC cord, use a 12VDC wall wart wired to the base.
You could just have a barrel jack mounted in the base that matches the barrel connector on the 12V wall wart.
>>1049371
>He wants the pistons as the base.
The base needs to be of insulating material to keep from 'shorting' the cams
The top needs to be of the same material to hold the cams apart and mount the lamp base.
>>1049455
I think he's missing it.
OP, the cams are the wires.
Thus you need a low voltage bulb so you don't get shocked, or coat them in something clear to insulate them (like epoxy or shellac).
Either way you should still clear coat, cams will rust up pretty fast.
>>1049510
So put a rubber standoff between the cams and the pistons to insulate it.
>>1049533
Don't coat them and use mains voltage.
Do use 12V.
OP, don't build a death trap. For all I know, you might even be a nice person!
Just run the wire through them. 20$ a machine shop will drill anything for you
>>1049582
Pfff, you act like 120v ac is dangerous.
Go lick a distributor cap you casual.
>>1049336
>>1049340
>>1049365
>>1049510
These are all my ((you))s
(just so it's not blamed on an innocent)
>>1049533
>So put a rubber standoff between the cams and the pistons to insulate it.
So put a pic up so we can see what it would look like.
>>1049701
On tablet so no photo shop.
The threaded portions are not connected, they have basically flat shallow heads like nails encased in the rubber and completely separated.
>>1050088
Actually, I meant a pic of a lamp with two cams on a six piston base.
>>1050093
I don't think he HAS to use all 6.
Could just put one piston per cam.
Or 2 pistons together under the cams then the other 4 spread out around them for stability.
if you had variable timing, your lamp would have been finished by now
VTEC YO
Those would make awesome lightsaber hilts with a bit of work.
>>1050169
Its an m54 engine. See VANOS.
>>1049701
You could an halogen bulb and this way you don't need DC, just works with a transformer 10:1
>>1049323
>>1049323
timing gears and chain