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leaking oil

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Thread replies: 42
Thread images: 5

File: 1st-Subaru-Outback-Sport.jpg (103KB, 1302x723px) Image search: [Google]
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My Subaru outback is leaking oil @ a rate of 1 mile / quart. (not a typo)

I just changed the oil seal for my left camshaft because there was a less severe leak.

Before i could tell where it is leaking, now, nothing.

The underbelly of my car just seems wet with oil.

i don't understand how this much oil can leak without dropping to the floor. Anyone have any ideas?
>>
Most likely the head gasket is shot. The 2.5 is terrible about blowing head gaskets.
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>>1045470
Clean the car, check for new oil. Also look in your radiator. If its got oil in it it's probably a blown head gasket. Also have a mate follow you around for a bit and see what the exhaust looks like.
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>>1045470
Head gaskets. Will wick out from the centerline and cover the entire engine. Welcome to Subaru.

To confirm, pressure wash the bottom of the engine so it's spotless, then turn it over/run it a bit until it starts dripping. The first drops should appear somewhere around the head/block seam, possibly directly over the front axles.
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>>1045470
I once had a lube shop put the wrong filter on my truck and it did the same thing. Hope it's something simple like that OP.
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>>1045484
>>1045491
>>1045500
1 quart a mile seems like an awful lot for a blown headgasket.
the thing would be billowing smoke and since hes checking the oil there should be telltale signs of water contamination in the oil if they were mixing.

>>1045509
An oil filter could leak from too much pressure as well.
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>>1045470
>1 mile / quart.

fuck it. mix 40:1 2-stroke oil into your gas and stop buying motor oil.
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>>1045470
The gaskets around the cam covers always leak after disturbing them.
They are cunts to get off with the engine in place but it very much can be done.
Try brand new gaskets, they are formed rubber.
Take your time replacing the covers and nip them up evenly.
Some mechanics pile in the gasket goo, shouldn't have to do this though.
Check the little half moon rubber inserts are not missing.

Used to rebuild EJ20's for a living
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>>1045656

This. My country is full of turbo foresters and anyone who has to pull a cam cover fucks up the assembly first time around
>>
>>1045470
ok guys. update :
I checked my oil level, the dipstick comes out soaked, 1 -2 quarts above the full line. I will bleed the oil out, but how could the oil sign come up? Is it triggered by too high of a temperature, instead of lack of oil? or both?
The other day i lost a lot of coolant in one spot, i figured i poured too much, but i guess i am real low, i am overheating very easily.
Or am i not getting enough oil through the system?
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>>1045863
The oil light comes on when oil pressure is low. Usually that means low oil, but it could b other things as well, including leaks. The temperature guage on your dashboard is actually oil temperature.

You seem to have multiple problems going on at once. You should take it to a mechanic, problems like that are really hard to diagnose online.
>>
>>1045470
>>>1045470
>ok guys. update :
>I checked my oil level, the dipstick comes out soaked, 1 -2 quarts above the full line. I will bleed the oil out, but how could the oil sign come up? Is it triggered by too high of a temperature, instead of lack of oil? or both?
>The other day i lost a lot of coolant in one spot, i figured i poured too much, but i guess i am real low, i am overheating very easily.
>Or am i not getting enough oil through the system?
If you've confirmed that it had the right amount of oil in it, and not way overfilled. Now you're losing oil, but the dipstick is now reading 2qts high, and you're also misplacing coolant.....


Head gaskets
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>>1045521
Made me chuckle
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>>1045892
i forgot to add the missing coolant fact last night.
I already changed my head gasket 2 months ago.
It was very clear, there were white clouds of smoke.

It's coolant that leaked, not oil.
My oil level is tooo high, but the oil light is coming lit on my dashboard.
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>>1045874
if i have high oil temp, wouldn't that be due to a lack of coolant?
>>
>>1045896
It could be due to many things. I once had it overheat because a vacuum tube was loose, pulling air bubbles into the coolant and foaming it up so it didn't work right. It could literally be anything in the engine. Although checking coolant would be the obvious place to start.
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>>1045895
Sounds like you might have fucked up the head gasket swap , bro
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>>1045895
>I already changed my head gasket 2 months ago.
Did you do the proper tightening sequence or did you just tighten to max spec without doing the steps and sequence?
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>>1046743
Yyyyeah, I'm with this guy. Bolt patterns exist for a reason.
>>
File: sigh.png (3MB, 1440x2560px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1046734
>>1046743
>>1046747
My head is dry as the desert.

I replaced the hose after i realized it had ruptured, ran the engine, and this happened (it's leaking viciously from the water pump) pic related. still from video i took.
Water pump is not sealed, any chance i can just tighten those bolts? Really not looking to take the timing belt off for the 3rd time in 2months....
>>
>>1047616
You didn't answer if you tightened the head bolts in the proper sequence.
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>>1047616
cars are not my forte so bear with me this might be a retarded post...

did you change the water pump when you did the head gasket? My understanding is when it's not working well it let's things heat up too much and then this is when the head gasket starts to go.

then if you're overfull of oil is it milky or clear still? I was thinking maybe coolant is getting into the oil and it'd be milky. that would explain low coolant and high oil.

Googling about the light being triggered by too much oil, there seems to be concensus that it doesn't work that way but actually from what people were saying in terms of the light coming on with too much oil in practice, it was seeming like it did.

I'd drain out some of the excess, check how it's looking, then see if the light goes off. If the oil is good then maybe it was as simple as maybe the drain bolt was not on right? Did you change the gasket on the drain bolt too? Sometimes they get stuck on but you should pry them of and replace them.

I think you'll definitely have to get the water pump sealed but I don't know how. I would suggest two things to help your cause then everything is sealed up. Run high milage oil with that seal conditioner in it. I had a car that leaked bad and switching to quaker state high milage solved that for me definitively. The other is I would be running one of those coolant flushes through the rad and cooling system for a couple of days and then replace the coolant. That stuff also lubricates and helps stuff like the water pump run better. That's the best I can offer unfortunately.
>>
>>1047616
A leak that bad, you must replace the water pump seal. water pumps are only 50$ so do that as well.

as for diagnosing the oil leak, buy sugar soap. wipe off all the grease deposits with paper towels, go all over. once you've wiped away the major clumps of solid grease, wipe down the engine with a sugar soap soaked rag. now use a high pressure hose to blast off the rest of the black sludge.

only wash your engine while it is hot, this way water that gets into connectors and wires will evaporate quickly. now drive the car, the oil leak will now be obvious.
>>
>>1047745
Why sugar soap, thought straight detergent would be fine ? Sugar soap is only advantageous when you need a bit of abrasion
>>
Well bandaged
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>>1047723
So i changed out my water pump, it doesn't leak.

Now i am having trouble bleeding the air out of the coolant lines. ITs a real bitch
>>
File: FB_IMG_1473150698988.jpg (71KB, 720x960px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1045470
I have a 1997 obs with a ej22 motor (non turbo)
I had a issue like this, it was due to a
Plate on the back side of the engine. the original plate was plastic on mine and it was broke, so I replaced it with a metal one. I don't know what it's called but I dubbed it the plate of doom.
>>
>>1045512
Just saying a blown head gasket doesnt always mix coolant and oil. A blown gasket can cause a loss in pressure with no leak, an oil leak/burning just oil, leaking coolant (into cylinder or just outside the head), it can leak both into the cylinder or just mix the two without burning either. All of those depending on the layout of the passages into the head. Head gaskets are fun.
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File: timing-belt.jpg (637KB, 2689x1011px) Image search: [Google]
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ok guys, a couple days later, no coolant leaks : )

However i do have an interesting problem to solve.

So my timing belt tensioner bearing was drilled to deep by me when i did the helicoil job. Now there is a good drip of oil getting splattered all over my timing belt, it's screaching like a mofo.
I need to fix this, but im not sure how to go about it. MY first thought is epoxy, but what kind will bond well even when there is always going to be oil residue inside?
My next thought was take the bolt out, insert silicone, put bolt back.
What do you think /diy/

pic related, oil leaking from red bearing!
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>>1051878
Are you fucking trolling me?

m8, if you're serious, you need a new block
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>>1051878
wut? looks like the end of the line...
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>>1051955
No I fucking don't, just tell me how to fix it.
>>
... Is this fuckin helicoil guy from a few months ago
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>>1051985
Well impropery installing a thread insert will ruin your block. On such a critical part it should have been done in a machine shop using a time sert thread repair. The thread repairs are solid anodized aluminum. It also has to be drilled to proper depth and straight hence forth taking it to a machine shop. Fucking up a thread insert on a bolt you can't go bigger with will basically trash the block. ....there is a way of fixing it but would require a machine shop to weld up the hole and tap it properly but the cost or weighs the cost of a good block.
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>>1045470

I had a similar problem, turned out the oil pan had a harline crack that would split open a little while driving, but not while sitting still, shit was cray cray
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File: steelstik.jpg (36KB, 500x500px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1051985
lmao this wasn't me, but what i would have said. thanks.

>>1051992
Yes this is me.

>>1052028
I'm poor cannot afford a machine shop.

The plan right now is to stick epoxy puttty in the, drilll, tap it, insert bolt. unless anyone has any other ideas...
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>>1052247
Good luck.
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>>1045470
Maine, new Hampshire, or Vermont?
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>>1052247
And you will be constantly be poor trying to constantly fix it wrong. I work in the industry and love guys like you cause when you finally realize you can't hillbilly it. Guys like me step in and rake you over the coals. I've been where your at but at the end you spend triple trying to rig it and still have a piece of shit than if you'd have saved an fixed it right the first time.
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>>1045470
Are you sure you installed the oil seal correctly?
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>>1052247
thanks dude.
>>1052320
nyc
>>1052802
dude i'm an electrician, if someone has an electrical problem i post to help if i ccan. If they had 2 have have someone come to theiur house to fix it, it'd cost 100s if not 1000s.

You're honestly a douchebag to come in here and tell me i should go to professionals, when i've already told you im poor. Thanks for nothing, bet you're a miserable prick
>>
>>1052905
I'm not a miserable prick. You came here for advice. I worked not only as a mechanic but as a machinist and auto parts guru. I'm telling you from my 20 years experience how to properly fix it and the consequences for not fixing it properly. Take it or leave it. They are some things that cannot be fixed in a home shop or on the cheap because you lack the knowledge and the tooling. That is why there are professional shops. Engines are precision equipment these days and timing components critical to not sending your valves into the Pistons grenading the whole works. I'll be there ready to sell you that reman engine soon.
Thread posts: 42
Thread images: 5


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