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Best wood for computer desk

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Thread replies: 22
Thread images: 6

File: table+2.jpg (94KB, 1356x616px) Image search: [Google]
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I modeled picture related a while ago, and only recently have I had the time or money to actually build it. I'm going to be getting a new computer rig pretty soon, and my current desk won't fit it.

What kind of wood would y'all recommend for a computer desk? I know something hard for the main 'desk' surface, so writing doesn't scratch it to shit, but beyond that I don't know what'd look good, last long and not break the bank. I'm pretty good at woodworking, just that I've never built indoor furniture, most of the stuff I've made were outdoor or garage stuff.
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>>1045273
Budget is a big consideration. Oak is pretty hardy but expensive. Furniture-grade plywood is cheaper but requires more work to look nice. You might use a cheaper base wood and veneer it with a nice wood.

All that said, I would seriously reconsider that design. The sides and bottom are very weird.
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considering what you'll be doing all day, just make sure it is more stain resistant rather than strong
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>>1045273
why does it have a bottom plate? and side plates for that matter, since u already have 4 legs
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>>1045279
I'll admit I modeled that before I seriously considered building it, it's a second evolution of an even earlier table design where I was obsessed with having angles fucking everywhere, so those shelves were at some weird like, 32 degree angle.

The triangular bits were there for when I originally intended on using plywood for everything, as I obviously wouldn't drill into the side of it. I do like the curviness to the paneling, though I'll probably change it again, my third design would likely do away with anything on the main platform.

What would you say is a good wood that compromises between quality and price?

>>1045283
Nyuk.

>>1045285
I wanted something to put my tower on, though in hind sight I'm seeing more and more flaws with the design. The side paneling was more for aesthetic appeal instead of any real functionality.
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3/4" Baltic birch plywood plus edge banding.

Lots of polyurethane will make the top of it nice to write on.
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keep in mind that solid wood used for large surfaces (e.g., desktop surfaces) might warp if no proper counter measures (e.g., dovetail batten) are taken.
Baltic Birch plywood seems to be very popular among woodworking enthusiasts, because it is suited for different purposes at a reasonable price. of course, the final appearance highly depends on the surface finish you use, be it varnish, oil, enamel, or what have you.
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>>1045291
>>1045302
Baltic birch plywood, I'll keep it in mind.

I'd say I redesigned the table, but I scrapped literally every design element and started from scratch. Missing the drawers, but I just finished it, so it's going to be subject to changes.
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>>1045358
Move the middle braces to the back side
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>>1045363
I don't quite follow.
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>>1045358
Im with the other anon. I love baltic birch. Its clean and cheap and physically strong on account of being ply.

Personally though I dont bother with the edge banding. Most of the stuff I have that used it all have 1/4" roundovers on the corners and sanded smooth. I prefer the look of seeing the ply
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Just go to ikea. You can pretend you actually built it and if you fuck up they have a lax as fuck return policy.

Of course if it must be custom make sure you can afford a few mess ups.

Steelcase desks are nice too but $$$$
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>>1045273
Fucking mdf
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>>1047501
.. and same desk stained
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>>1047504
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>>1047506
simple and nice
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>>1045368
Move the x's on the inside of the desk to the back side. Otherwise you're going to have a wobbly table.
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>>1045358

If you are going to put a frame under the table top then MDF is really the material to beat. Dimensionally stable, so it won't fight your SPF frame like solid wood does (if you don't keep gaps between your planks your present design is a bad idea). Cheaper than plywood.

>>1045368

You have no bracing to keep it from moving from side to side, if you moved the center X's to the back you would.
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File: Snapchat-3379284179339795649.jpg (774KB, 1440x2392px) Image search: [Google]
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Plywood, kiln dried 2x4s and your favorite color VCT tiles. Pic is a almost completely project (needed finishing touch up paint, and edge trim)

In hindsight, I'd not use the vct tile as the trim on the edges, but instead use the strips of metal sold at home depot. It's soft, lightly rounded and with the right tools, maluable.

The vct tile is great, but can be a bitch to cut so you need to plan for the least amount of cutting, and use the scoring/snapping method. The pic attached is when I was measuring and cutting the tile for my own desk.
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Pride
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>>1047504
I have that Stanley toolbox!
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two metal brackets attached to the wall studs with 3 inch screws will hold a 24 inch(depth) desk sized surface to any wall. laminate a cheap black surface to a stable substrate and your desk is done when you mount the surface to the brackets.

you can even get fancy and attach a keyboard tray under it.
Thread posts: 22
Thread images: 6


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