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Black gunk

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Thread replies: 35
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File: IMG_20160825_132602.jpg (1MB, 3840x2160px) Image search: [Google]
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So I decided to get rid of some nasty linoleum flooring that came with the house when I first bought it and replace it with decent tile. However, after I took it all off, the linoleum left this black stick residue that's not coming off. I tried scraping, sanding, acid, and a wire brush but to no avail. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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>>1043893
Stop what you're doing and get that adhesive tested for asbestos. I had a similar situation and the adhesive from my old flooring tested positive for it. Whatever you do don't sand it!
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best bet is to lay down a layer of self-leveling cement over it
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>>1043893
>asbestos confirmed

Shits a nightmare. You're better off cutting up the subfloor and replacing it if possible.

Proper remediation is a fucking nightmare. Spent a small fortune getting the asbestos tiling in my basement cleared.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QI-8v5d3mqY
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Asbestos concerns have already happened; you'll die eventually.

What is the underlayment, looks like concrete? Looks acceptable to mud over.

Check with the tile company for an appropriate thinset that would work with a mastic contaminated surface or google ceramic tile over mastic
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Shit son I install flooring and at the first hint of possible asbestos I put on a mask stop scraping and cover everything in Ardex GPS . no messing with around it stays down and you don't have to touch it. Or just take a belt sander to it and an hero
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>>1043895
>>1043959
>>1043969
>>1044074

You morons
It's not asbestos.
Asbestos tile adhesives are typically light-brown (almost red) in color

What the OP has is a simple bitumen (tar) adhesive, typically called "Cutback"

It's a bitch to sand off because it's tar, friction and heat just makes it stick harder.

It needs to be chemically removed.

We use FranMar SoyGel, a soy bean based, non-toxic, non-caustic paint stripper.

It works by being ultra viscous.
The gooiest slime you'll ever see.
Smells like tofu

Slather the bean glop on the floor, wait 24 hours, come back with a sharp scrapper and scrape all the glop up.

This is the same product we use in Asbestos remediation as FranMar encapsulates the asbestos particles in the soy bean goo

If the Cutback were any heavier than the OP picture, I'd recommend FranMar Bean-E-Do.
But that shit will eat through an asphalt pavement
Sometimes I really want to beat the ever loving shit out of the asbestos scaremongers.
>>
I remove shit like that or a living. You can get a 7 inch angle grinder with a pcd cupwheel to remove it. Or you can chemically remove it. If you don't want to do it the right way you can get a thinset/mastic that will work with that.
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Just put a floor foam and put a nice wooden floor on it? Let it be there.
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>>1044089
>Smells like tofu
Weird
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>>1043893
Try goof off. It's a spray they sell at hardware stores. We ripped up a carpet and there was a foam mattress glued to the floor, took it right off
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>>1044304
>>1043893
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>>1044089

I'm not sure how to respond. Because there are many different kinds of cutback adhesive that have asbestos particals in them. I had a white adhesive in my house under the kitchen floors that tested positive energy for 70% asbestos. I also had a black tar adhesive under cheap linoleum tile in my old garage that tested positive for 10% asbestos. So it's definitely a thing.
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Give up and just tile over it. Shit is way too hard to remove.
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>>1043893
isn't that tar residue left from the tile adhesive? if you want to clear it maybe need something that would dissolve it. asbestos would be in the old tiles themselves not in the glue, right?
I'd be leery of just putting thin layer of cement over it - the cement probably won't stick to it and then it'll crack up in a short time as you are walking (putting weight) over it...
maybe need to put down a layer of cement board. glue and power nail it down. then tile on that. still I'd wonder about the glue sticking well to the tar.
perhaps a 'floating' subfloor system would be better. then wood flooring over that.

or you really need to get a diamond grinder and take off a thin layer (including the tar) to really be able to start from scratch.
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>>1044317
>maybe need something that would dissolve it
this>>1044089
try the soy goo... seems the 'easiest' option. just slather it on. wait. then scoop it off.
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Kerosene.
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So I tried acetone, and that shit was waste of time. Really considering tiling over it. What's the long term consequence of my impatience?
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>>1043893
asbestos tiles stuck on with asbestos mastic.
great job op
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>>1044366
Cancer.
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>>1044366
Only possible thing to go wrong is the tile not adhering to the floor 100%
I wouldnt worry about it, just tile over the shit
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Yep, its black mastic containing asbestos. Don't sand it, and you'll want to really clean your house down after you removed whatever floor it was holding down.

There are no real downsides to leaving it there if you don't want to properly abate the asbestos, other than a less than level and smooth slab. You can probably get away with putting your thinset or more mastic over it, and putting new floor on top. Ceramic tile in the kitchen would probably be best, and you probably won't have a problem. Don't eat mastic, and clean the dust off everything to avoid breathing or ingesting it.
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File: image_11749.jpg (95KB, 1200x1200px) Image search: [Google]
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my dad used pic related to burn them off
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>>1043895
the concern over asbestos is outrageously overblown. The only people whose health were affected by asbestos exposure were those who worked with it day in and day out before the hazards were even known.
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>>1044089
Wrong.

>>1044074 Installs floors, as do I and probably several others here. 8" tiles with black adhesive is nothing but asbestos. As >>1044074
said, you do not rip out asbestos, you ply over it and move on.
>>
Just leave it, and install the new flooring over it. If you're installing wood or vinyl, it won't effect anything. And if you're installing tile, you'll have to install cement board underlayment over it anyway.
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OP Why are you trying to get the black stuff off? You may as well just lay stuff over the top of it. Underlay, then carpet or just floorboards will do absolutely fine.

>>1043959
NO

DO NOT DO THIS

If it is asbestos, do not dig it up. Just leave it down. and put something over it. It's fine if left, you move it around and that's when you get problems.

I don't think this is asbestos though. Just looks like the tar they used around the 50s to stick shit down.

I'm a Landlord and Property developer

>>1044089
Mostly right. I've come across cream, light brown and redish asbestos tile adhesives. They're not a problem though so long as you don't get the glue up with a sander or something. Most people just lay stuff on top of it.

>>1044312
I agree. They literally put it in everything. It was still used in houses right up to the year 2000. It's actually an amazing material - shame it kills people.
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>>1044556
The concern is outrageously overblown but you can be exposed to it once, breath in the fibres and your heath can be affected. The type of asbestos is the key - different colourings and different materials. White asbestos is generally the safest to work around, for example. Blue and Brown, less so.

It's not a safe thing to work around for a day or two - it can still give you real fucking problems but it entirely depends on luck and what type of asbestos you're dealing with.
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>>1043100
>>1044089
Talking about asbestos...
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Hado this crappie in my house, we heated it up and scraped it off with a piece of rectangular sheet metal, but the chemical way seems much easier
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>>1043893
That shit has asbestos in it. Screed over then tile.
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Jesus Christ, pussies!

Regardless if it has asbestos or not, we'll never know. This would require it to be tested. Asbestos remediation is a spendy bitch, but it's a simple process. OP: Just make sure you're using AT LEAST PPE. Mitigate creating dust as much as possible, so no sanding. Try some of that bean slop posted up thread. If you DO sand, isolate the area as much as possible with plastic, and negative air pressure. Fuck, nigger rig a HEPA furnace filter to a box fan out the window. Better still would be to capture any dust while sanding using attachments to a ShopVac to your sanding equipment as well.

Also, even if it's asbestos, and you get exposed to it, doesn't mean ZOMG, I'M GONNA DIE!!!! There are people that have lived in asbestos laden houses, or worked with asbestos on a daily basis, who live naturally long lives.

TL;DR
Wear PPE, don't sand if possible. Negative air pressure and plastic sheeting is your friend
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File: FireBreathBulletTime.gif (3MB, 800x362px) Image search: [Google]
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http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/guidance/em4.pdf

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/guidance/em6.pdf

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/guidance/em8.pdf

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/guidance/a23.pdf

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/guidance/a37.pdf
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It's the tile that had any asbestos in it if at all. Wear PPE. Bag all that tile and broken bits in a heavy gauge bag twist off the top, fold that over and tape around where you folded. Put that in another bag and do the same. Vacuum all the area surfaces with a HEPA vac, floor ,walls, everywhere. Bag that the same way. What are you putting down? Does it have to be flat smooth? If you are having a hard time getting is off them maybe it would be a good base for what's next. If not, a trick I saw years ago was to make a 12" x 12"x ~12" plywood box with one open side and opposite of that make a hole large enough for a hairdryer ( maybe a heat gun if you knew what you were doing). Place the open side down over section of floor and insert the heat gun to the other opening and let it heat up the bitumen. When it's soft enough to scrape off with putty knife move box over to heat new section and work the just heated section.
Thread posts: 35
Thread images: 5


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