hand planes

>>1036124
>What is the best
Used Stanley planes made before 1965 or so. Sargent/Craftsman weren't bad either. Same for Millers Falls. Stanley Handyman series were meh tier. Estate sales, flea markets etc. Don't go by eBay prices.

>Why is there hardly any middle ground between throwaway tier and men's jewelry tier hand planes?
Because the market is so small. They either need to make cheap garbage that they sell at a huge (compared to cost of manufacture) or something thats really nice but at a huge markup to cover the very limited number they will produce.

>>1036124
Stanley sweet heart line is pretty good for the price. Lots of one off custom hand plane markers now days too. If you buy a cheap plane with blade chatter. You can either order or make a new plane blade Thats thicker material. I have a cheap craftsman low angle (more medium) and it was kinda crappy. But I switched the blade out with 1/8" stock thickness. Holy shit batman the thing is a whole new beast.

Buy cheap. Upgrade cheap. Get gewd. Finding planes at a flea market is super rare here in florida. Best are estate sales desu.

>>1036124
Go to antique stores and estate shops, or the occasional home estate sale.
Great tools can be had for almost no money, the tools might need some TLC.

>>1036124

Hand planes directly from the store are not adjusted or sharpened. Both situations can cause chatter and are a far more likely culprit than having a thin plane blade.

The plane cap is designed to hold the blade tightly right next to the point of contact, so also check that the cap is as close as possible to the cutting edge.

No, the $20 plane is never going to be as precise or pleasant as the expensive planes, but they're perfectly serviceable for the occasional user. Like any other tool- if you find yourself using it enough that the cheap version really bothers you, then it's probably time to upgrade.

Never had a problem with muh stanley low angle
built a dining table with one, turned out good

>>1036181
This anon knows his shit. Listen to him OP. Thick blades are mostly a rip off.

I jave a chest full of antique wood body planes that my dad bought at a yardsale for $100 anout 15 years ago. I use one occasionally but normally they live in the box. No brand information on them though.

I had a plane that I thought was shit, then I stumbled across an hour long video of Paul Sellers or whatever his name is restoring a shitty plane. Makes it pretty sweet. I spent about an hour on it too. The plane cost about $20 at a second hand store. It's a Stanley #4.

I have another plane which is a baby plane made by Kinchrome (Australian). It's absolutelyperfect for putting an arris on plywood/mdf sheeting, and is literally useless for anything else.

>>1036201
>Stanley #4 smoothing plane
>shit

kys

all joking aside, they are great planes, not much wrong with them, it was American market basically giving the middle finger to ever increasing prices from the British market.

also what the fuck is an arris? like a chamfer?

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>>1036215
I have a Stanley #4.

It's complete shit.

>>1036239
As was stated above they started to go bad about 1965 and were complete garbage by about 1980. If you are unable to buy a vintage one then either get one of the 'new' sweethearts or avoid Stanley all together.

>>1036191
>Thick blades are mostly a rip off.
I disagree. They are less inherently prone to chatter and that can't be denied. But even better, planes with thick blades are usually paired with plane bodies with substantially heavier bodies and this makes premium planes like a Lie Nielsen worth the cost. They are much better than any vintage plane, even the vaunted Stanley Bedrocks can't compare.

Though there are intermediate planes, like Quangsheng (known as Woodriver in the states) which approach the quality of the top end brands.

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>>1036124
I offer you an alternative anon, get a Japanese pull plane instead of a western push plane, they are pretty inexpensive and do a great job once you've sharpened them, I bought one on a whim and it has become my favourite to use, the finish is so good that I often don't even need to sand my pieces after planing.

Stock picture but mine is about the same to look at.

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>>1036258
>talking about the 'vaunted' Bedrock series with a strait face.
Thats some audiophile level garbage right there bro. Bet you're real big on corrugated soles too huh? Get some Brilliant Pebbles and really bring your planes to the next level.

>>1036258
I said "mostly" on purpose. They do have benefits, but it becomes a discussion of angels on a pin. They chatter less, but they're heavier, but a regular iron doesn't chatter if you know how to set up the plane and sharpen it, but a new user deserves all the advantage he can get, but he'll hate the plane if it's too heavy and get discouraged, and on, and on. I suppose it comes down to how much are you willing to spend, and how much do you believe in magic? I'm not buying a new iron because I'm not a newb, and I'm "thrifty," and the results aren't enough to me between the two styles to make me spend the money.

>>1036215
An arris is a sharp edge on a board ,nothing done to it at all, when you've planed around a board they get cut your finger sharp.

Usually you talk about removing an arris by taking a light pass with sandpaper and a block purely to prevent injury.

They give the motherfucker of all paper cuts otherwise

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>>1036270
It looks as an unfinished plane to me.
Your wood cube with a blade is missing chamfers, handles and a wedge for comfortable blade mounting.
Please see a stock picture of a real plane.
If you intend to pull it instead of pushing, I'm not going to stop you, it's your choice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10RPOPBTwZA

>>1036270
>the finish is so good that I often don't even need to sand my pieces after planing

ANY plane with a properly sharpened blade should leave an almost-polished finish...

>>1036465
This.
I worked with shitty supermarket tier plane, kinda like pic from >>1036398. Initialy it was used for drywal or some other plaster like things. Once I straighten and sharpen the blade it worked like you described. Differences were that blade lost it edge pretty fast and like every wooden plane, it was annoying to set up.

>>1036270
Out of curiosity I checked prices from my local importer - japanes planes are 3-4 times more expensive.

>>1036490
>Out of curiosity I checked prices from my local importer - japanes planes are 3-4 times more expensive.

Check Ebay, much cheaper.

>>1036398
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lw5PffJQVu4

>>1036513
Why?
Is there a reason people need to do that?

>>1036513
That's cool, but other than the cool factor what good is it? I can adjust my Bailey to take a thousandth off easily, so the whole "perfect fit" argument is kind of moot. If you're measuring wood to the nearest thousandth you're crazy. I can adjust my western style plane to take 30 thousandths off easily and hog off some serious lumber. I can also pull it toward me, cut end grain, use the sole as a straightedge... Japanese planes are a meme. They're cool, but they're a meme.

>>1036738
Look at japanese furniture, there are much lighter and thinner that Europeans, they definitely need more precise tools.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8vJ11cXLs4
>>1036741
I agree

>>1036295
Fuck me.
We used to joke about the phrase 'removing an arris' because once you'd done it the board was 'arrised' and then we had assumed that the arris was also the thing that was applied. I feel a great sense of enlightenment anon. Namaste.

>>1036239
yeah, that looks like a shit plane. Does yours have plastic handles?

>>1036256
mine is obviously an old one.
But I got the feeling that the new ones in Australia are ok quality too. That other one looks terrible

>>1036181
This. Just put some work into your planes. Even an expensive "quality" plane can be shit if it's not sharp and correctly setup.

I bought a couple of the #33 Bench Planes from Harbor Freight. The edge on the blade out of the box was shit. After correctly putting an edge on it it worked like a champ.

If you want to go into even more detail on it, I lapped the sole to be extremely flat but this was largely unnecessary since it was pretty good then I polished it up nicely. I out some locktite on the screws that hold the handles on since they like to work loose.

Is it the same quality as a $300 hand plane? No. Does it work well? Yes. Am I happy with my $9 purchase? Yes, extremely.

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>>1036196
Fucking lol, just saw some for sale today. I was thinking of buying one because I've been tempted to use my grandfathers old one but it isn't in the best condition. The oldest one is from the 30's. PIC of ones in store

>>1036239
>plastic handles
>intothetrashitgoes.jpg

Truper makes decent ones. Actually all their tools are decent believe it or not. Jandles are bakalite

The big jointer costs about €60 so they're not too expensive either.

>>1036738

No- it's a contest to see who can create the thinnest shaving. They can get down to around 10 microns in thickness. For reference, a human hair is about 100 microns thick.

https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/wonk/wp/2013/02/13/in-japan-wood-planing-can-get-awfully-competitive/

As to why, well... why not?

>>1036181
You can split the difference by getting a decent old Stanley/MillersFalls etc and putting an aftermarket blade like Hock in it.

Quangsheng on Workshop Heaven, Lie-nielsen quality for pennies (considering).

My go to plane is a flea market Stanley 4-1/2 heavy smoother with a Hock iron installed. It is simply amazing. Took it completely apart, cleaned it and flattened the sole. The Hock iron cost more than the plane. Shavings you can read through.

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The difference is massive.

Cheap planes have poor quality thin blades that chatter, and high end ones have better ones made of thick carbon steel.

Old Record and Stanley Bedrock are acceptable alternatives.

I own 10 planes, a small Veritas low angle, a bunch of Record/Bedrock planes up to a #8

Plus a small Japanese plane and 3 spoke shaves plus scrapers

In all case where they come with a thin blade, I upgraded to Hock high carbon ones.

>>1037268
Too old to be used, better for display. The holes are caused by "powderpost beetles" weakening them

Also the split going up the middle on the big one means the wedge was left in while the plane dried out, and as it shrunk, it spread it apart

>>1036490
Wood soled planes need a harder wood like lignum vitea for the bottom

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>>1037857
Nah, all the vintage wooden planes I've seen don't use anything more exotic than hard maple and history has proven them to be more than sufficient.

Anyways, I have a brand new Stanley Sweetheart No. 4 plane. There are some innovative features going on here as if Stanley were releasing the first new design to surpass the Bedrock pattern plane.

Couple of things of note here. The frog and plane body itself is now one big iron casting. This makes it heavier than even the premium Lie-Nielsen No. 4s, and gives the plane a nice momentum in use. It also supposedly reduces chatter, but modern premium No. 4s solved that a while ago anyway. Machining is precise, very unlike Stanley's lower-end planes. Probably not up to Lie-Nielsen standards though. The mouth is adjusted with a block-plane style sliding mouth. Much more convenient than having to unscrew the frog and fiddle with the position of the blade that way.

The chipbreaker is a copy of the Lie-Nielsen type, much thicker, stiffer, and registers better on the plane iron than the typical "curved metal" type used on all the vintage planes.

The plane iron is advertised as being made of A2 steel, is a full 1/8" thick, thicker than Hock replacement irons and about twice as thick as seen on vintage planes.

The fit and finish is a bit mixed. Good machining, piss poor paint job. The black paint is flaking in places and there are some gouges in the wood handles. Whatever. They got the important things right and left out the nitpicky things that make $400 planes $400 planes. Also, made in Mexico rather than USA or UK or whatever.

$110 shipped on Amazon.

Whenever I go to antique stores all the vendors peddle their shit, rusty, raggedy ass planes for $50+.

The used market is such a joke. Where are the real bargains to be found?

>>1039225
>Where are the real bargains to be found?

Yard sales, flea markets, estate sales, industrial and business liquidations.

My bro and I used to spend Saturdays cruising in my truck. He had an app or two that scoured Craigslist for sales plus we noted any auctions off auctionzip, bidspotter, tiger. etc.

I punched the addresses into Waze on my phone as he read them off. I'd also add addresses we found via signs on the way.

We scoured the Columbia, SC area up to Indian Trail (lots of sales from when manufacturing was heavy) hunting machinist tools, automotive tools, bulk supplies like abrasives and a vast amount of other gear. It works insanely well.

We've slowed down because our shops are basically full of every tool we want until we move into CNC machining. We scored three mills and two lathes in the process plus a shitload of tooling.

The same strategy works even better for woodworking tools but we already had enough of those. Woodworking gear is in much less demand. Auctions are how the professionals in many trades get their equipment.

If an auction happens or closes on a weekday those are often the best for deals because casuals have to go to work and can't attend to push up prices.

Another trick is open your States Craigslist page like this: https://geo.craigslist.org/iso/us/sc

Then open each region in a separate tab, and each catergory in each region in its own tab. You can gun through them very quickly. I check SC/GA/NC for tools and motorcycles every day. To switch States just change the State suffix.

>>1039225
Ebay is good for manual woodworking tools. It's easy to score bargains with a bit of lurking.

>>1039233
I scored an almost new #8 Recond for $125

It had a tiny pock mark from being dropped.

Just buy the home depot buck brothers and follow paul sellers vids for restoring a beat up old plane. Save yourself $300.

>>1037854
Love your organization

>>1039336
Ew. Have you not read one word of this thread? Bad steel will chip, plastic handles suck, but hey, whatever, if you want to be poor and sad be poor and sad.

The one anon posting quangsheng from China seems legit. I like mh #4 woodriver and now want a super nice Jack plane.

>>1039384
Have you not read one word of the thread? Just because you want to be an elitist snob who takes the bait and "upgrades" to a thicker iron, it doesn't mean everyone believes that crap, or wants to waste their money on it. Regular thickness irons work just fine if sharpened and the plane is set up correctly.

>>1039384
Quangshengs are rebranded Woodrivers.

>>1039388
There is nothing elitist about preferring premium planes. They just work a lot better than the shit planes.

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Nice bit of kit

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>>1040238
Both are bespoke

>>1036511
Or Amazon.

Just bought an old Stanley #4 on ebay from Bongland.
Let's see how far £14 + £11 for shipping take me.

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My mom bought me a Stanley Defiance from ~1940, I cleaned her up but I don't want to do a complete refinish, I like the antique value.

She said once I'm able to use this one well she'll get me a Stanley Bailey. She says tools today might be worth it but she's more comfortable giving me a well made tool from back then for less money.

I'm 19, my University has a shop so I don't have to buy other tools for now. Only buying a grinder for my knives and to sharpen this.

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>>1040502
thought my dad bought it for me at first, it was my mom after all.

Pic, all taken apart. Will take back together soon. Just woke up.

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Ive never used a plane before, dont really know much at all about them
But I was at a thrift shop and saw a few, remembered this thread so I bought em.

Got 3 of them for $11, so if they are trash im not out much money.

Millers Fall, 14 inches long

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>>1040523
Dunlap 14 inches long

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>>1040524
And the Wards Master which is 9 inches long.

Im not gonna have time to mess with them till saturday, but ill probably pull em apart and clean them up. The 2 long ones are all rusty

>>1040525

Millers Fall at least is good stuff, assuming they aren't cheap reproductions

Are there lots of fakes out there?
Feels like there quite the market for cast iron planes and they seem easy enough to rip off.

>>1040544
To fake a high end plane you have to use a lot of cast iron. And source big thick blades. And the fit and finish wouldn't be up to par even to the untrained eye. They aren't like Gucci handbags where the value of the product comes from the brand name tacked on the side.

At that point you might as well just sell them under your own name and call them Quangshengs, loud and proud.

>>1037854
if that little tote is an indication of your work, then i'm calling bullshit on you knowing much of anything.

>>1040544

As pointed out, in order to effectively fake a high-end plane...it pretty much has to BE a high-end plane. I mean, I guess you could just make a good plane at a lower price point and then try and pass it off as some overpriced brand name, but, at that point, it doesn't seem like it would be worth it over just selling your own brand as a competitor.

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>>1040478

Alrighty, bong plane arrived, i have mixed feelings about it.

After all the praise i heard about Stanleys it feels surprisingly cheap.
The frog seems rough on the sides, the wheel and the knobs on the handles are aluminium instead of brass, that clamping part feels cheap, the lever that engages the wheel is stamped instead of casted and the hole to screw the front handle into the sole is off center as fuck.

Is that a knock-off or just a cheap budget-line Stanley?

Also, the lever to adjust the blade left to right is attached with a rivet. How can i plane the surface of the frog without removing an re-riveting that lever?

>>1041439
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/type_study.php#Type 1

Date your plane and find its type. Post results.

>>1041463
>http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/type_study.php

Seems to be a Type 19 ('48 - '61) from some time after the mid 50s.

The body is in quite a reasonable shape, gonna remove some rust now and try to get rid of that awful rancid oil smell.

>>1041476
So now i learned the Type 19 No. 4 is not neccesarily the most desireable, but certainly a very affordable plane.
Blade is out of square, but that schould be no problem, chip breaker is almost good to go, i just need some kind of flat hard surface to plane the sole.

>>1037353
The wood is yellow cedar from the Pacific Northwest. I have a few pieces left that a guy used for FENCE BOARDS. Clear except they have nail holes in them, and I used most to build some Deacons benches.

yesterday, while replacing a handrail and two 4 X $ posts, I discovered that's what he used for the posts as well, almost completely clear yellow cedar

>>1039384
Thank you, I got sick of not having room on my two work surfaces so I got some left over baltic birch and some maple offcuts and I put it together with the idea I can mount this inside a case when I get time to build one. Or mount it on French cleats on the wall. There are Lee Valley rare earth magnets in cups in the board to keep most of the planes in place. The bronze one falls off sometimes.

>>1040757

If you have a question that doesn't insult everyone's intelligence, go ahead and ask it. Otherwise, fuck off.

>>1043513
Twerk twerk twerk.

>>1043513
Twerk twerk twerk ouuuuu twerk twerk twerk

>>1043513
Twerking gherkin . You have been loved by the twerking gherkin. Twerk twerk

>>1043513
Twerk twerk twerk. Twerk with the gherk, smirk with Turk.

>>1043875
>>1043879
>>1043881
>>1043882
Another college graduate.

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I just bought this Sears brand plane for $18. How badly did I fuck up?

I don't think it was ever used very much. It's extremely sharp and looks like the edge is still original. Cuts well from what I can tell.

>>1044482
Craftsman brands were generally made by Seargent but I'm not sure about just plain Sears. It's in good original condition and rust free so, as long as it cuts well, it's fine.

>>1044482
For $18, you really can't go all that far wrong. It's less than the price of a trip to the movies. Just tune her up and at the very worst, it's less than perfect.

>>1044482
Tune it up by flattening the bottom on finer and finer wet stones or emery cloth, Done the same to the back of the blade and the chip breaker.

Then give the blade a proper edge