Paint job; 560 days later

File: Tank2.jpg (162KB, 1632x920px) Image search: [Google]

162KB, 1632x920px

For what ever reason the primer did not stick well to itself after the first 2 medium wet coats where sanded, my 3rd coat to smooth everything out just DID not stick to the coats below it. and the color coat? its not waterproof at all, it allows moisture to go in and out and through it. and apparently the powdery primer does too. Now I had already talked about how the clearcoat went really matte? well around may-june time I was reading on some boat forums about different finishes. and someone asked about hellman's spar, and people weren't happy with it saying it didn't hold up well at all, it looked really bad, flaked on them. and it went REALLY dull. over-all there was better products for the same amount of money. and when you look really close, the clear looks like a bunch of micro-orangepeeling. so what I'm thinking is that the clearcoat shrank/warped due to the direct sunlight and it being on a metal tank that gets pretty hot during the day under no cover. And the shrinking caused it to create small holes/cracks like what happens to clay when its wet, and it dries too fast. now this has let rain soak into the color and base coat in spots, and get to metal underneath, causing spot spot rust.

File: IMG_20160807_234729.jpg (273KB, 1280x720px) Image search: [Google]

273KB, 1280x720px

And heres the rust freckles that will show up on camera.

Looks like shit, I hope you get hit by a truck next time your splitting lanes.

>>1035002
You went out of your way to post a rude comment on a forum specifically to put someone else down.

For what reason? Is it that you are unhappy with your own life? Just for shits and giggles?

I'm genuinely interested in your motives.

Don't mind him OP.

File: hands free.jpg (35KB, 510x465px) Image search: [Google]

35KB, 510x465px

>>1034993
>>1034995

thank you for posting that and the update. it's good to know how things turn out

For a metal tank, you are best off using an etch primer - that stuff sticks like shit to a blanket. I've just completed painting some external aluminium fittings that had been powder coated. I fine power wire brushed down to clean metal, etch primed (3-4 thin coats) then painted (5-6 thin coats). Used an epoxy gloss for the top coats and if I want a high gloss, clear epoxy topcoat and polished afterwards with an automotive 'film remover' which is actually a very fine polish.

I've done this previously on exterior cast iron furniture, steel fencing and aluminium fencing. The aluminium starts to go after 4-5 years but the iron and steel are still fine 7 years later. I'm 1km from the ocean as well.

Forgot to mention I'm in Aus. We get the occasional frost and temps up to 43c. I reckon that the cast iron furniture gets hot enough to cook on in the summer.

pps
wash bare metal steel tanks with phosphoric acid which converts rust into an inert base suitable for priming.

If it is coming off the bare metal, you've either got a shitty, incorrect primer, or your prep work was substandard.

I'd generally take 80 grit as too coarse - 120 would be a better starting point; you're only trying to get paint to stick, not bog.

Also, the surface needs to be clean. No, cleaner than that, I mean wiped down with wax and grease remover till there's no shit coming off on the rag, then do it all once more with a fresh rag.

Make sure it is the right sort of primer; etch primer is good stuff, but not really needed on steel. Preferably use primer that is specifically for the topcoat you are using.

That camo paint looks a bit too all-purpose for decent automotive work, plus it's matt, which is essentially a gloss paint with talc added to kill the shine - it's just not as durable as gloss.

When you repaint, I'd use a proper automotive acrylic lacquer; a clearcoat is not required for solid colours, only for metallics. If you do decide to go for a metallic/clear, then you can buy a 2k clear in a spray can - it's about $35 for the can, BUT it is a proper 2k and way more durable than single part finishes... but once you click the 'mix' button on the bottom of the can, you've only got 2-3 days to use the can before it sets up.

As you're from Austfalia, visit the vgautopaints.com.au site and also look up The Gunman on YouTube - he loves spraypainting.

Oh - and why the fuck did you put a polyurethane wood finish as a topcoat????

But if you really want a durable finish, 2k is the only way to go, just use a Sundstrom mask with a P3 filter outside if spraying, or Northane gloss if you want a brushable 2k.

Answering time!

>>1035148
I ignored him already. dun't worry I still know where I'm at.

>>1035177
Yeah, figured since I planned on repainting it in the fall, I'd post about it now because I'd forget to do it, and everyone wanted to know how the clearcoat would hold up. one in a half years ain't too bad.

>>1035196
>>1035199
>>1035201

>For a metal tank, you are best off using an etch primer

I tried this from the stuff in the can, and the shit just scraped off with a finger nail even after proper prep and sanding. I still have the friggin can! lol

And It gets pretty hot where I live too, not desert hot, but 95f in the shade hot.

>>1035238
>If it is coming off the bare metal, you've either got a shitty, incorrect primer, or your prep work was substandard.
honestly, if you don't remember the original post. I'm not going to re-explain all my steps I took for prep, to you now. I gave the TL:DR in my OP here, legit there's nothing to critique you spreg, I know its the internet and you are a 25 year show winning paint specialist an all.

>I'd generally take 80 grit as too coarse - 120 would be a better starting point; you're only trying to get paint to stick, not bog.

80 grit was recommended on steel by an auto body repair bro on here, thanks tho pham for more of your extensive knowledge.

>Also, the surface needs to be clean. No, cleaner than that.

Surface was cleaned very well. as per the OP.

>Make sure it is the right sort of primer; etch primer is good stuff, but not really needed on steel. Preferably use primer that is specifically for the topcoat you are using.

if you haven't already figured it out, you know, by reading and using context clues, this was to see how long a rattle can paint job would last.

>That camo paint looks a bit too all-purpose for decent automotive work,

No, just stop.

Cont.

>>1035238
>plus it's matt, which is essentially a gloss paint with talc added to kill the shine - it's just not as durable as gloss.

Seriously? talc? SERIOUSLY. what kind of bullshit are you trying to pull here? There's no fucking talc in it.

Also Matte finishes are recommended because they cure harder/faster coming out of the cans, and there is no reason to buy a gloss finish when you're just going to put a clear coat over that, also Rustos gloss finishes you cannot use their gloss clear coats over top, its just all kinds of soft sticky fucked up paint. they even tell you not to right on their website.

>When you repaint, I'd use a proper automotive acrylic lacquer; a clearcoat is not required for solid colours, only for metallics. If you do decide to go for a metallic/clear, then you can buy a 2k clear in a spray can - it's about $35 for the can, BUT it is a proper 2k and way more durable than single part finishes... but once you click the 'mix' button on the bottom of the can, you've only got 2-3 days to use the can before it sets up.

Well I'm going to repaint, I'm looking for someone with a big compressor tank and maybe an HLPV gun, mainly the tank. so I Don't have to buy an expensive ass set-up [what I avoided originally] And no I'm not an AUS bro.

>>1035243
It wasn't polyurethane, it was spar urethane. two very distinctive differences. spar urethane is inherently REALLY chemical resistant, and since it was going on a GAS tank, where gas and gas fumes would be around, normally clear-out of a can, wasn't gonna cut it, because it would of turned to slosh the first time a drop of gasoline got onto it.

>>1035334

MSD sheet for the color I used, just to prove that seriously there is no fucking talc added to kill the shine.

http://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/1919830.pdf

>>1035002
Hey fuck off back to live leak ya fuck

PS your wide is about to leave you for leaving salt rash in her gash

>>1035404
His wide better narrow the fuck up if it's just a rash.

Well, from most of the other responses, it seems that I'm not the only one who didn't understand it was just 'to see how long a rattle can job would last', although it should be 'how long a shitty and mismatched product rattle can finish will last'.

So, sorry I missed your post from 560 days ago. It must have slipped my mind. Or maybe I forgot all about it as you sound like a bit of a precious wanker anyway, judging by some of the comments others have made in your thread... maybe they remember you.

If you can't get a minimum of five years out of a well prepared rattle can finish, you're either using shit paint or shit techniques or both, and I cannot for the life of me understand why the fuck you were using a timber finish on a metal surface; timber finishes are designed to be somewhat vapour permeable, so that they don't delaminate from the timber when water tries to evaporate.

A 2k clear from a rattle can - or even an acrylic clear - holds up just fine to petrol in everyday use, despite what you think.

Oh, and talc is a flattening agent. So is cornflour; so is silica, and so is titanium oxide, which is listed in your paint's MSDS.

File: 20160808_223437.jpg (2MB, 2560x1920px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2560x1920px

Any tips on getting the smoothest coat of paint? I paint vidya controllers and they turn out like shit, well sometimes they do, sometimes they don't. I just want it to look as neat and perfect as possible. From my understanding I'm following the right procedure by sanding, washing excess, paint, dry/cure. Sometimes after I'm done sanding and washing, I'll apply the first coat and on some spots I'll get this little grouping of holes that make it look really bad. I use cans. Would a small air brush be better? And I use rustoleum paint. Would you recommend an automotive paint or something that you'd use to paint models?

>>1035848
automotive paint
lots of thinner
wet sand
clear coat

>>1035848
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hUds71Bx48
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuJnjN7QqBc