grayson lathe

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talking about the tool table in the center

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and some more wtf tools

>>1034436
First thing is to RTFM. Top table is called a carriage, that should help you find the interesting parts.

I would suggest looking up the lathe codes and any other information to find some kind of manual or literature.

The height of the cutting tool in that style of holder is adjusted by shims under the tool. http://www.newmetalworker.com/howto/setlahecutrheight.html

As for the WTF tools, from the 12 o'clock position, clockwise - trammel gauge, the teardrop shaped thing is a drive dog - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lathe_dog the square things with holes all look to be clamps for measuring gauges, to the right of them, looks like a morse taper tool, old chisle, two dead centers https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lathe_center and some sort of extension handle. Down the bottom looks like at least one old interchangeable screwdriver bit, then a few different styles of clamp. Dunno what that L shaped bit is, though.

See also: http://www.bbssystem.com/manuals/Lathe-Tutorial.pdf

That lathe will work best with high speed steel tools; carbide tools need higher speeds and feeds than that lathe is probably capable of, so you'll need to get a bench grinder for resharpening HSS.

>>1034447
>>1034461
thanks a lot very helpfull

>>1034461
and that screwdriver handle looks like its been made into a cutter or something

>>1034436
the top table is the compound slide and you're trying to lock the swivel in place by tightening the toolpost. stop that before you crack something. the locking bolt for the compound swivel will usually be a small setscrew in the side of the compound, probably on the side we can't see in your picture.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/grayson/ has some history

go to http://www.youtube.com/user/mrpete222
he's a retired machine shop teacher. watch his 'machine shop tips' playlists from the beginning.

>>1034461
>>1034466

I believe those "screwdrivers" are boring bars. Looks to be cemented carbide, or may just be HSS.

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>>1034562
>go to http://www.youtube.com/user/mrpete222
>he's a retired machine shop teacher. watch his 'machine shop tips' playlists from the beginning.

naw naw skip that and just watch this and guess how to do it on your lathe

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMhbRPqwfa0

so i still cant figure out how to stop the compound slide from rotating once tightened down, i took it apart and there is no set screw, only the one t-nut which tightening results in minimal rotational hold, thinking of drilling and tapping a hole to put in a set screw, any ideas on how well that would works?

>>1035519
>only the one t-nut which tightening results in minimal rotational hold

maybe it's just missing a shim or washer to make it hold more forcefully

>>1035519
>thinking of drilling and tapping a hole to put in a set screw
Don't fuck with it. Figure out how it was supposed to work in the first place.

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>>1035519
>bodging a hundred year old machine because you don't understand how to use it

>>1035541
>>1035537

what would you guys do, tried putting a washer, shimming it, using a different t nut in the track to no avail, short of getting a new slide im out of ideas and i seriously doubt a new replacement would fit anyways

>>1035633
Take it off and show its underside and the surface it sits on.

Try adding a c-clamp before you go drilling holes.

>>1035633
Which part is rotating? The tool holder, or the compound slide? If it's the tool holder, just add more washers under the bolt head. If it's the compound slide, the bolt on top doesn't tighten it. Unscrew the compound all the way back (it might come off, don't worry). The locking bolt should be underneath. Also as a general rule of thumb, nothing on a machine tool should be tightened "as tight as i can get it". You're going to end up breaking something.

If none of that helps, take a picture of compound slide completely disassembled so we can see what's going on there.

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>>1035710

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>>1035710
what looks to be a hole in the top part seems to be a bubble that was formed during the fabrication

>>1035820
>>1035819
wow, it really is just one bolt. sorry for doubting you, OP. that's an unusually ghetto arrangement.

quick fix is to put thick (~20 thou) gasket card between the surfaces and not go too crazy on the nut.

you'd need to have perfectly flat faces to get a solid grip with only one bolt. some time in the future you can perform lapping or scraping to remove the high spots.

>>1035820
Are the threads on the t-nut still good for the whole travel it might need?

>>1035826
Might be all that brass (?) impregnated on the mating surface acting as lube?

Doesn't seem like that would make it as loose as op was describing.

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>>1035819
you possibly need to buy a new compound slide, and at least a new toolholder, your current one only allows height adjustment with shims.

>>1035820
smear a little valve grinding compound on the surface - it'll stay in place then...

>>1035826
ill try that out thanks
>>1035832
yes
>>1035953
would a new one fit the rest of the lathe? in case the previous ideas dont work

>>1035953
Quick change toolposts are a meme. You don't need one, OP.

any recommendations on a compound table?
i seen the sherline compound slide, im not 100% sure its what i need however and its almost 2/3rds of what i paid for the machine itself, anything i could get in Ontario Canada is a huge bonus

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>>1036146
Meme or not, you can get the small ones for sub 50 dollars
>>1036151
Yeah the sherline is possibly too big aswell. Can you send a pic with the cross slide mounting area?
Also pic related comes with a toolpost, not sure what kind though

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>>1036491

OP REALLY needs to visit hobby machinist forums because someone there probably has that lathe or a relative. It may be missing a gib and you can make those.

There are many old lathe manuals online and you could post a pic thread to ask if someone has one they'll copy for you.