/3dpg/ 3D Printing General

Anyone know where I can get the 6mm rubber hose for airtripper's bowden extruder without pyaing $20+shipping for a long roll?

I'm ordering a Prusa I3 MK2 next month. I haven't been this excited for ages.

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So I've finally gotten antsy enough to rip up the cube and gut it I like the dump buckets, and assuming I can figure out the wiring for the head, the head and motor assembly is pretty nice as well.

I've ordered a 200W DC DC step down from 24V to 12V, so I can run these normal things.

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>>1036688
Also, the board there isn't the control board. That's the old beard from the velleman Vertex behind it. I fried the bed MOSFET because everything on that machine is overpowered (it uses 70W heaters cause I gotta get to 400C). Luckily, this thing doesn't have a bed, so it's a great fit.

Pic related is the control board from the Cube. It seems to use a PIC32 as a processor, which ain't bad, a microchip MRF24WG0MA for wifi, which actually is simple SPI and I might use it for arduino projects. The steppers are all DRV8811s, which I haven't heard of until now. Compared to the DRV8825s, these are only 8th microstepping and kind of suck. Theres a 256kb SRAM chip, which may be useful, a pretty high quality 4gb uSD card thay has all the binary instructions on it (languages, the setup program, etc). The screen that's not pictured is manufactured by Lincoln Technology systems. I found similar parts on their website, but no API.

>>1036688
quite nice. Can you give more pics of extruders? there is a lot of cables behind extruder; what for? Is that a bowden drive or where are extruder motors? and some other details like belt tension mechanism and bed leveling,...

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>>1036749
I actually don't know that much about all the cabling yet, but so far, the mechanisms I've seen on the head are 2 heaters, two thermistors 3 fans, a led fir bed leveling, two LEDS for a e s t h e t I c s inside the chamber, and a light sensitive sensor for auto bed leveling.

All in all that's 12 ,ldevices, and since there's more wires going in to the head than going out, I'm willing to bed there's a multiplexer in there somewhere, or its just ground breakouts.

The extruder system is bowden, and the nozzles are the weirdo steel things that will never wear out but are impossible to clean. The actual extruder is a big aluminum mystery block that seems to take 1.75mm filament in and makes it go pushy pushy.

There does not appear to be any sort of belt tensioning, but since the belts are slightly cracked and this thing is brand new, I'm willing to bet the factory tensioned em up but good.

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Thinking about buying a Rostock Max V2 kit. Any thoughts about the printer or anything else that I should know about it? The primary reason why I'm leaning towards this one is the price and the fact that I can assemble it myself.

>tikos ship
>they keep breaking

top kek

>>1037398
if it's in your budget than its 100 percent worth it

>>1037398
make sure it comes with a 32bit controller or ask the seller to ship without one at a discount and buy a smoothieboard or something else
(large) delta printers really profit from the additionial processing power; you'll get a quieter printer and nicer prints

>>1037398
I hope the calibration procedure for delta printers has improved.
Also, unless you're bound to be printing things that are tall and generally skinny, a cartesian printer may be a better option.
Ultimately, how good your printer is largely dependent on your settings.

>>1037474
>I hope the calibration procedure for delta printers has improved.

When will the "its hard to calibrate a delta" meme end?
Its not easy to calibrate a Cartesian printer either, especially for a beginner.

>>1037478
since when did everything become a meme?

Calibration for a delta was mildly more complicated than a run of the mill cartesian. If it has improved, or if there is better documentation, etc then it's certainly an option for a beginner.
Calibrating a cartesian can be done with a square and a sheet of paper.

>>1037484
>since when did everything become a meme?
this is memechan after all

but honestly what is the big problem about spending another 2-3 hours on calibrating your printer
when you have already spend a weekend on assembling it and will spend weeks to learn its functionality

>>1037508
It's an extra 2~3 hours spent on calibration that may not be warranted if a delta isn't necessary.
If the guy isn't going to be printing tall things then there isn't much point in getting a design that specializes in that. Not that it isn't as good at other things, but it does require an extra bit of effort.

>>1037484
>since when did everything become a meme?

Since people who have never touched a delta printer go off on how hard they are to calibrate.

> If it has improved, or if there is better documentation, etc then it's certainly an option for a beginner.

The documentation has always been there, and he is asking about a very expensive Rostock Kit. Its not like he is building it himself and lacks the ability to google.

>>1037508
>what is the big problem about spending another 2-3 hours on calibrating your printer

It doesnt take 2-3 more hours to calibrate CORRECTLY.
In fact there are more variables in a cartesian printer that you have to calibrate.

The vast majority of people slap their cartesian printers together and run them out of tune with very poor calibration. Ignore the fact they spend the next month fine tuning shit they didnt understand in the first place.
If they would have taken the 2-3 hours and done it better, they wouldnt be dealing with menial settings for a month that everyone should know.

Sure, Deltas are more slightly more finicky with the initial calibration, but they simply dont go out of tune as quickly or easily as cartesians. And they arent any harder to tune. They just have to be tuned correctly the first time.

>>1037523
>it does require an extra bit of effort.

To do it right the first time?
Maybe thats a problem for some people.

>>1037523
>>1037538
by 2-3 extra hours, I just meant that it is such an insignificant amount of effort
compared to all the time/money you did spend on getting your first printer running
that it shouldn't even be a criterium for selecting which printer to buy

Are all metal hotends worth it?

I've heard they are good even for just PLA/ABS for detail, but also that they can jam more.

There's a company that does 3D printing if you provide the model, think they may even do 3D modeling for you and they ship worldwide. I was a little skeptical at first but the parts I got printed for my senior project were pretty cheap and pulled me out of a tight spot. Called Excellion, website is excelliontech and their instagram is @excelliontechnologies I believe. They post stuff they print for people every now and then. Some of it is cool, some of it is whatever

I was considering cheapest Prusa i3 based one (at the moment it's $227 USD) as my first ever printer. Would there be a benefit in picking one in the $3-350 range instead? Reviews seem decent but I don't know how many of them would be 'biased'.
I'm confident the i3 is the right choice but don't want to find I get a kit that vibrates too much or warps etc.

https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/product/reprap/slimbot-3d-printer-kit

>>1037696
Nice shilling there.
There are several such companies, Shapeways being probably the best known. If you're fine with wire melters, then there is even more selection and there's a good chance one is pretty near to you.

>>1037701
No idea what shilling means in that context, I'm just talking about an experience that I had. Not sure what town you're in but there are no companies that do that where I live

>>1037702
Mentioning the company name once should have been more than enough to find them.
Depends on what demands you have, but for the lowest tier you can try 3dhubs. For more professional results, 3d printing <city> (on your language) is worth trying.

Where exactly you live where foreign company is your only option?

>>1037700
The 2020 extruded i3 Folgertech or 8inch Makerfarm Pegasus are both nice because of the aluminum frames

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So this is the part of the Flashforge. I've seen people mod a fan to the front to blow evenly to cool parts, which usually involves wiring things to the board etc.

Is there a reason I couldn't just pull that piece of shit leaf blower of the side of it and just connect a 40mm fan to the existing wires?

>>1037677
I've heard they jam less because they don't need the PTFE tube which can be damaged easily.

>>1037716
thanks for the reply, i'll make the leap and get one.

>>1037442
This is good advice.

>>1037478
>>1037484
>>1037508
>>1037523
>>1037538
>>1037553
>ur a meme
>no ur a meme
This little sperg out should be copied to the next OP, considering it happens every fucking thread. Although there are slightly different tradeoffs between architectures, functionally you're not going to see an appreciable difference.

Can we talk about something interesting, like how amazing the peachy printer is instead?

>>1036779
Why does it need 3 fans? And why are they offset from hot ends? especially two on the sides. where are those blowing? I guess maybe one is part cooling fan. The others could be for cold-ends on normal printers, but here the cold-ends are from plastic? Do they need cooling? i would also like to see a pic from the bottom of extruder head.

It looks like the drive gear is in cartridge, which is weird. But I do like an idea of quick swap-able hotends. I hate changing filament from ABS to PLA as I always have to completely clean the nozzle or I get a clog.

>>1037755
I really don't see why you could't. Just check that it is the same voltage and that is it. Also check for min. voltage for your new fan if it is g-code controlled and adjust in slicer. I had a 12V fan that had no problem spinning at 25% (3V) but than I changed for bigger fan that needed at least 50% (6V) to start spinning.

>>1037790
What are you supposed to do when someone asks about a certain printer, and then gets bombarded with misinformation about it because someone doesn't like the design?

>>1037821
Put it in the OP so people are aware. That or lurk more.

>>1037755
In my experience the centrifugal fans work so much better than axial fans if you're ducting them. Axial fans can't maintain pressure that well though a ducted system, while centrifugal fans do so wonderfully. I've switched out both fans on my RepRap to blowers (50x15mm centrifugal) so both the hot end and the extruded plastic are cooled with them. I can hardly hear the printer running, and my overhangs and active hotend cooling perform much better.

Also use two blowers with a toroid duct on my Filastruder and it cools PLA extremely well--can't even run them at full speed without lowering the temp of the nozzle drastically.

If you're just trying to cool everything you're printing, a larger axial fan aimed at the bed would probably work better than one on the end effector anyway. Something like a gooseneck USB fan that you can aim at your print may be good enough.

>>1037848
>That or lurk more.

Funny you say that, the anti delta thing is a pretty new phenomenon.
The very first general had a guy with a delta talking about using weed wacker line for filament.
It was a great discussion

Can you imagine what would happen if he would have posted that in todays thread?

>>1037871
/this
I still plan on setting up my rmaxv2 for trimmer line, but it's been put on hold while I build up my collection of more traditional tools. as for the delta difficulty, I always liked that you really only have to strait en the towers. after that, calibration is a breeze

>>1037804
Cool thank you. I've not done much like this before. Apparently its just a 24v fan on it, assuming to match a 24v PSU and make that lazy to build the thing.

So I may just be able to buy a 24v 40mm fan and hopefully a lazy solder less connector. I think this will work. Would remodel the blower fan it comes with as its not bad, just poorly funneled, but I think it would vibrate a lot and would need a whole new casing.

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>>1037871
It's really not though. If it's not ripping on deltas it's ripping on core-xy. My whole point is that anyone who claims something is a meme is usually borderline retarded.

Here, have an octopus on top of a glow in the dark bust of Lenin for your troubles.

>>1037959
Before you buy 24v fan you should check the sticker that is probably on the other side of the fan. It should have rated voltage and current or power. I also have 24v PSU but the fan is 12V. I guess there is some sort of step down voltage regulator on the motherboard.

>>1037968
I looked up the replacement part on amazon says its DC 24v .15A.

I was assuming maybe they went with a 24v fan so they wouldn't have to put in anything to step down voltage, like people do to install 12v fans from what I've seen. I figured make it easy and just get a 24v fan.

Sadly think the smallest I have on hand is 80mm, be a tad heavy. Fuck me suddenly sad Radioshack is dead, because the only other place I can think that may have one is Bestbuy and they are annoying. Maybe a hardware retailer.

>>1037972
Other idea might be to put two fans in serial connection (If that is easier to buy), so the voltage splits between them. For that you would need exactly the same fans, so the voltage would split to 12v for each fan. But you should get a confirmation for this from someone who knows more about that. I was assuming that fan is a resistive load, but it might not be. IF it is not ,I don't know if simple ohm's law still works.

>>1037972
>>1037985
>>1037985
Don't do this. I just googled it. Sorry, my bad. Read this: http://wwenze.blogspot.si/2012/06/read-this-before-connecting-two-fans-in.html

>>1037992
>http://wwenze.blogspot.si/2012/06/read-this-before-connecting-two-fans-in.html
I'm not connecting two fans.

I was going to find a fan that matches voltage to the one it comes with, and swap it out.

Replacing the good blower fan that blows down a shitty tube to only one side of one nozzle. To a equal voltage 40mm fan mounted to the front of the carriage with a funnel the hits both nozzles from more than one angle. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537918

Just trading out to a fan I can point the whole thing rather than blow on one side of one part.

Is it a waste to buy a printer today when the tech is still evolving so quickly? I'm busy with some uni stuff and think I'd be better served buying one after graduating

>>1038007
Depends on the technigue:
FDM Buy now
SLA maybe
SLS wait
Polyjet buy now
Metal printers maybe

>>1038013
Thanks for the advice friend

Could anyone recommend a brand of PLA that is very clear?

I know PLA is naturally clear, but how clear seems to vary. In the US so things that ship their without requiring a first born in payment is preferred.

>>1038001
I agree with him >>1037862
That funnel on thingiverse is poorly designed imo. More than half of the fan basically hits the wall and it doesn't help much with cooling. It also depends what kind of fan you are using. You might get some good results with high quality pressure optimised fan. I would suggest that you design similar thing but for your radial fan. I think you could get much better results.

>>1038202
It's expensive but Colorfab XT-CLEAR is about as clear as you're going to get. Bear in mind that you're going to have to go with hollow or 100% infill to get a clear object.

>>1037862
>>1038319
Well I have alternatively found a funnel for the built in blower fan that tries to send it to both nozzles. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1597507

Considered trying to make my own as well or just mount a 120mm fan somewhere inside, but there isn't a lot of room to work with for something like that.

I just know something has to be done with the air flow because one side of any large print instantly goes to shit the minute it reaches an overhang due to cooling and while the side with some air flow turns out wonderfully.

I dunno maybe I should just mount a small pocket/desk fan to the bottom of a board and lay it across the top so it blows down toward the bed. Seems too crude though. I know things like Lulzbot use regular fans mounted on each side to blow toward a print to good effect.

Does PLA need direct air hitting it or if I angle some fans into the enclosure would it do the job.

I have quite a problem with my prusa.

Suddenly, one day the extruder motor stopped working(it vibrated but didn't move and I checked it wasn't stuck or something) so the pololu finally met the end of his life(2 years non-stop) and when I decided to put another one I burned the electronic.

Now, when the new RAMPs came and I started the calibration again, now the motor simply doesn't move at all, I tried changing the pololu with one I knew it worked, I changed the motor and the motors doesn't move.

For now the printer only has connected the hotend(both resistance and thermistor), the X endstop, the X motor and the 5A part of the RAMPs power supply with the + going throught a polymeter to measure amperage.

Any idea why this could be?

Note: I also leave my finger on the pololu when I connect the electronic and it starts heating without doing anything in both X and Y motor.

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>>1038337
I would make something like that: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/fan-duct-attachment-for-flashforge-4503
Or if it would be possible, I would rotate heater blocks for 180°, so there would be enough space between them to have air channel between them. and from this channel would go small air ducts that would wrap around nozzle. pic related

>>1038340
Possible your motor is toast. Also possible that the potentiometer on the pololu is set too high, but if you've swapped the motor to an axis that works with a different motor and it still doesn't work, it's the motor.

>Finally fix underextrusion making the sides of my prints all swiss cheesy
>Now the tops of my prints have holes in them that refuse to look good no matter how many layers I splice

I hate this process so much. What extruders do you guys use?

>>1038720
Have you tried changing amount of infill and type of infill?

>>1038728
I am using an old version of Cura (I really hate the new version and I can't get Slic3r to work), so I can't change the infill width. I will opt for a grid infill however. Thanks for the advice.

>>1038938
try repetier host you can select between using cura, slic3er or other ones for slicing and the general UI is pretty basic and old school

Newb here, is anything out there as customizable as MeshMixer for filling objects with a lattice structure?

Anyone know if the steel and other metal infused PLA filaments are stiffer?

Like if I print something fairly thin would it be more like a wire or still largely feel plastic and easily broken.

>>1038395

Nah, it turns out that there is no connectivity between the mosfets so the provider fuck up while soldering the thing and now I don't know if there is something else broken or about to broke.

So I need a new RAMP, can anybody recomend where should I buy one?The last one came from XCSOURCE from amazon and as I said, came fried.

>>1039187
What are you trying to do?

>>1039292
Easily broken. It's not really "metal infused" so much as it is metal particles in a binder (the plastic). Less binder means it's actually weaker because the metal isn't connected in any way.

Does current get split when you wire in parallel? Can I take two different cables and just combine the ends into a single source or is that an unsafe idea?

>>1039544
Damn I was trying to think of a way around having to use jewelry wire for a project since shaping it is annoying.

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Hey /3dpg/, I literally just pulled this piece off my print bed an hour or so ago. But I couldn't help but notice this weird artifacting pattern. It's honestly not a problem with this piece, since I was planning to sand and smooth the everloving fuck out of this piece anyway. But It kinda piqued my interest, how much this seemingly random ass print artifacting resembles a kinda natural wood grain look.

I was wondering if anyone had any ideas of what could cause this, because it might be interesting to try reproducing this effect on other prints.

>>1039719
Looks like something dragging through it like a stray bit of plastic stuck to the hotend or a second nozzle if you have one.

>>1039719
you printed a dildo?

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>>1039744
I do have a second nozzle that I never use, so there is no way it could have affected this print. Additionally, I checked the print several times while in progress, and didn't see anything dragging across the print. Those are good guesses tho.

>>1039756
I am not going to deny that printed a dildo or two in the past. But the print in question is actually part of a speculum I designed to help maintain my onahole collection

>>1039631
Yes, according to the load on each branch. No, you'll probably have a voltage mismatch and you'll blow a power supply.

>>1039818
>speculum I designed to help maintain my onahole collection
topkek

Hello, I have a question concerning belt driven systems : I'm replacing a motor with a stepper motor on a paper printer carriage assembly, but I put the holes slightly not in the centre. Is the position of the shaft of the stepper motor important in a belt driven assembly or not since it's just going to move the belt, wherever it is, and considering the fact that the carriage is held by two rails ? In short did I fuck up or not ?
and in short: should the bearing and the stepper motor shafts be perfectly hoyzontal in a belt driven assembly.

post more pics of the onahole speculum

>>1037677
I've had almost no problems with all-metal chinese e3dV6 clones, once i get them built to spec.

The one problem with those things, is that they CONSISTENTLY fuck up the bore on the heatbreak part, and drill it off-axis, and for god knows what reason, they countersink both ends.

you can get replacements for like $0.50 from china, though, so just order a half dozen, find the closest one to true of the bunch, and then face off the buisiness end in the lathe so it will properly seat against the nozzle.

Or, yanno, buy a proper one that will work fine every time right out of the box.

>>1040315
Cool I was considering getting one. I don't really have a need for flexible filaments they can be used for, but they aren't much more than a plated nozzle for the stuff I do have a use for. So I thought I may as well have the option.

I had just heard PLA tended to stick to the sides of the metal more so than the typical tubing. But I had also heard that the better heat distribution helps with smoother prints and better retraction to get create finer detail.

>>1039719
>>1039818
>speculum I designed to help maintain my onahole collection
>I am just a hobby gynecologist
>I want to be Onahole Safety Inspector when I grow up
You have my full support.
First check the G-code. If it is in gcode then it is probably faulty model. If it is not, then check your bed, belt, guide rods and bearings if something is loose. The other nozzle could drag across printed object and cause vibration of whole print head assembly. It might also be that it is too tall with bad bed adhesion and is wobbling a little.
Is the layer height smaller an the top?

anyone with belt driven axis to answer ?

>>1040315
I've been thinking about the e3D Lite6 upgrade for my Wanhao Duplicator. Am considering a chinese one, but honestly the Lite6 seems cheap enough that I don't want to wait for China shipping.

Is it better to print parts long or tall?

I kept having issues with a pyramid shape because layers couldn't dry fast enough so it squashed on the tip. I split it down the middle and laid it flat in the slicer and it came out really well.

I know the shrinking forces are usually worse on long skinny parts which gives making a tall part with a small contact point to the bed an advantage. But at the same time a tall part will show any issue with slipping or leveling and pointy parts are a science of cooling and speed to figure out.

>>1040181
It will probably print just fine, but if you eventually want to go for higher accuracy/speed, it might be worth rebuilding it as straight
>>1040792
Some slicers have a "minimum layer time" setting, use that. It will slow down moves and print the top layers much slower. Also, get some good fans and fan ducts.

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>>1040302
I've managed to print and finish pretty much every piece. But I have been having trouble with the pins for some reason. Even though I have printed things on a similar scale before. I might just pick up some machine screws and nuts next time I run out if I can't manage to get these pins to print

>>1038938
I have never gotten cura to do anything right, that's a shame about slic3r though, it's my go to when I can't get my other slicers to work.

Craftware kicks the dogshit out of Cura BTW. Maybe give that a try?

>>1040880
Working on improving the fans now.

Any idea why the first 1cm of prints would turn out darker and a different texture?

Its fine since I sand them anyway, buts its weird. The print is fine overall, but the bottom 1cm is always a different color and feel.

>>1041259
Bed is too hot/too cold? I can't think of much else, it's never happened to me.

>>1041352
110C for ABS and 60C for PLA.

I'm really not sure. It doesn't really harm what I'm doing right now, but its like that first 1/2 to 1cm is glossy and the rest is a matte finish. You can feel the transition with your finger, but even very fine sandpaper would remove it in just a pass or two. Could be bed temp I guess or maybe that I have a cold as fuck room the printer is in.

Is official Prusa i3 Mk2 any good?

>>1041534
>official Prusa i3 Mk2
Never seen it in action, but seems rather pricey. Granted it has a fairly big area if you need that, I never really make big prints but mileage may vary.

PEI surface is really good. Seriously stuck a 20 dollar sheet to my printer and that shit is magic, so I could see it working with ABS well despite being open air. Seriously whatever you get, but a sheet of this and glue it to the bed. Mine is glued down to the aluminum bed. Works better for me than glass, 3M sheets,

50 micron printing is really good, though it will likely take a long time to print if you want to use it. Some printers that are rated for 100 will actually do 50 as well though.

Prusa is one of the people that contributed a lot to the hobby market so that is good too.

E3D is good for it, though I can't see its cooling from photos very well if its only blowing from one side PLA ends up fine, but obviously different textured on each side.

So others would know better than I would, but to me it seems like you get a lot more for not too much more money invested or could get close to as good for a fair bit less. Though sometimes quality of build makes a difference and seemingly more expensive printers come out better for having durable parts and sturdy frames, so that may be where you want to look to decide if its right for your purposes.

Anyone know where to get nylon m3 stand offs? Mrmetric doesn't seem to have any stand offs and boltdepot only goes down to m4. I'm currently printing some in PLA but I'd rather just get some nice nylon ones just in case this Chinese PLA has contaminants that might damage my endstops in the long term.

That said, I don't want to buy a big $15 box of assorted stand offs when I just need 6.

>>1036462
I have the MK1, it's a fantastic machine.

>>1040792
>>1040880
I find printing long is faster + stronger if you don't really care about the way it looks (since layers will show if the part is severely sloped).

>shrinking forces are usually worse
Have you considered a skirt? 1-2mm works good for me usually. 3 sometimes.
What material are you using? I can get fairly sharp points with PLA and a cooling fan without them melting.

>>1041875
Happens with PLA and ABS right at the last few mm. Could be mine fan settings or lack of good fan funneling.

More of a theory questions really. I don't have any issues with shrinking or curling since going PEI on the bed. I've printed some very sharp and long things laying them flat on the bed so far. Just wasn't sure if I would eventually find a shape where that backfires.

>>1042029
The only 'backfiring' I could think of is delamination or the layers being very visible on severely sloped objects (>60deg from vertical or so).

>>1041658
There is a hardware store near me that sells them. But you didn't say where you were so I'm not going to either

>>1041658
Fairly sure they are cheap on Amazon. If you are in another country maybe a local store you can buy just a few.


So if I eventually need to move past just shapes and parts to 3D models of characters and things should I be using something other than Solidworks?

>>1042756
Blender works "okay", but if you want to get really good results and want to make things with tolerances/dimensioning/etc., you'd be best off with SolidWorks.

Maybe Sketchup but I haven't used that since it got sold to Trimble.

Can i get a 3d printer that can produce smooth enough surfaces to make good looking wargaming terrain for under a grand?

Looking at buying some hirst art molds to make terrain but my entry cost is going to be about $700 to $800 to get a wide range of molds + higher quality plaster to cast with.

If i could get a 3d printer for around a grand i would consider it over the molds.

But much more and im out. I enjoy the process of casting and building so that is not a downside for me.

Things like
>>1037961

For example are far too rough for my needs.

So can it be done for around a grand? or am i best off getting my plaster molds and casting blocks?

>>1042777
So if I wanted to 3D model say a realistic hand Solidworks can do that very well?

I find Blender's interface to be weird. I've tried it but compared to other things of similar concept it really feels off. I think the Unreal kit even lets people swap between Blender and Maya controls since Blender is so its own thing in that way.

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>>1042788
Well there are ways to give things super high polish like acetone smoothing, long story short abs melts with acetone so you can either use a paintbrush with a very small amount of acetone or make a vapor bath and submerge the prints in it.

>>1042793
Solidworks is more for mechanical parts. You CAN do a realistic hand, but it's hard to. Blender would actually be better for this because of its sculpting abilities.

>>1042788
>>1042796
I would also go for a filament printer and some sort of polishing. You don't even need a super precise printer, unless you want to print stuctures/elements on the terrain

Would it be possible to print a 0.5-1mm high circle with 0.1mm wide wall, with a 0.1 nozzle?

This is the best thread I can think to ask this. Has anyone had any luck with any websites, like Shapeways where you upload the CAD files to and you select from various materials for it to be made out of?

I have a ton of little redesigned parts that I need made out of metal or moulded from specific types of plastic.

Are these websites worth it? Is the quality there or am I looking in the wrong places?

Thanks.

>>1042870
I don't see why not.

>>1042927
thanks for the info

>>1042870
Nozzle too thick. Extrusion width must be greater than nozzle width.

>>1042887
It depends on what you are doing. Metal sintering is very expensive btw.

t. working in a 3d printing büro.

Hey guys, I'm building a 3D printer as a project for a Mechatronics class.
I'm checking which extruder and heat-end I should buy.
I found this one https://amzn.com/B00SLL9OO8
Is it a good option? If not, which brand do you recommend me? I found one of Anycubic but they don't ship it to Mexico(from where I am)
Thanks in advance

>>1043012
E3D extruders are the most common modern extruder and work reliably. I'm not sure if they ship to Mexico but it's worth checking out. I have no opinion on the one you linked, though.

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>>1043014
I vote for E3D too. If you're not a total moron you can machine it by yourself if you are working with a shoestring budget. Just remember to polish the insides well and use some olive oil if it is jamming (this advice goes also for the chink e3d clones).

Newfag here, looking to go super budget entry level. Pretty much narrowed it down to
https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/flsun-3d-kossel-delta-diy-kit
http://www.reprap.cn/he3d-auto-level-singledual-extruder-delta-180-3d-printer-kit-p-85.html
Any suggestions/input?

>>1042887
I've heard good things. You could also look into 3hubs and see anyone local is listed or look for a local metal shop for milling parts.


>>1043120
Really depends on what you are after. I've seen some promising printers in the crazy cheap range, but it depends on what you want it to do, if you want to upgrade things over time to do it better, and the quality at which you need it done.

A Delta printer that cheap would make me worry it would vibrate enough to slop the prints. Auto-leveling is really nice and makes life easier but it can be lived without. Nice that this one has it, but lack of a heated bed bothers me as that can be really useful to improve everything and make life much easier also. Granted you can add those later if needed if its a common enough size.

>>1043125
Well both the ones I link to have optional heated beds, which I plan to pick up if I go with one of them.
One thing that bothers me is the He3D is apparently itself made of 3d printed parts and I've heard horror stories about the firmware it comes shipped with not working in english. But its undergone revisions since most of those reviews were written, and I can't find any reviews at all on the FLSun printer.
I'd LIKE to do with a delta printer, but my primary concerns are somewhat large print surface and keeping it around the $250-300 price point.

>>1043130
3D Printed parts can be fine and I wouldn't worry too much about firmware since if the parts are fairly normal you may be able to replace it granted with much pain. I'm just not sure I'ld trust something without a metal frame for delta. Plastic doesn't even do that well in cartesian printers the movements might shake it.

That is a low budget, but if its just for fun anything can be good as a learning experience. You may want to check out Monoprices printers. They have an absurdly cheap one that seems to get decent results. Only down side is they are really custom on their parts so not a lot of room to tinker or replace stuff.

I will say I like the fan setup on the FLsun and the bowden design may keep enough strain off the parts that aren't aluminum. So if you go with one of the two I would do that one. But other here would likely know more than me. But hey 200 bucks for even passable was a dream only a year ago really.

So I noticed some MP Select mini printers on ebay for super cheap. The print bed is big enough for what I need, but just barely. Any reasons I should jump on or stay away from that one?

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So I'm the fuck with the diamond hotend, and I finally have the whole thing assembled and calibrated.


There's just one problem. How the hell do you make a mixing extruder work? I followed repetier's setup guide and it only wants to move one extruder. Not one at a time, just one. Whenever one extruder is set to move, it's extruder 0.

Anyone have any luck with repetier and mixing extruders?

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How the shit do I get an lcd controller to work on this thing? I bought the large full display Arduino controller off Amazon and every time I try to compile the firmware with changes it throws tons of errors. I followed directions and gave it about 15 tries.

I bought this as my second printer, the first was a knockoff prusa that I built myself and ran fairly tight tolerances on (especially for a ~$280 machine). It worked okay until the drier board ate shit one day and I didn't feel like waiting for parts from china for a machine that was hell to keep the bed level so I sold it as is and bought this Robo3d. It runs great, I just want it to be standalone and not dependent on my laptop.

Link to video and directions I followed:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yWX7Pn-Sg0

>>1043163
Wait, so the diamond IS supposed to mix colours? I always thought it was a replacement for dual/tri extrusion to lower weight on the carriage.

As to your problem: http://reprap.org/wiki/Repetier_Color_Mixing

I know literally nothing about printer firmware (I don't even know what my Prusa runs), so sorry I couldn't help more. I am interested in getting a Diamond myself now, though, since it's colour mixing and not just switching...

>>1043170
I followed that guide but it makes some basic assumptions and abstractions that I can't seem to work around. (I.e. How does "green" translate to "mix blue and yellow extrudes")

I might just go straight to Marlin.

>>1043168
If you want to make it independent I can't say much for adding an LCD but Raspberry Pi's work really well.

I use Astroprint on a Pi 3 and its fantastic at giving some wireless printing controls independent of a computer

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>>1043173
>how does green translate to mix blue and yellow
Colour theory. Pic related. You'll have to learn very well how much of what colour goes into what to get what result.

And if you want to be accurate (and you DO, otherwise your colours will be dull/muted), it's Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow, not Blue Red and Yellow.

Could anyone recommend a good glue for putting together parts?

On hand I have white glue, wood glue, gorilla glue, liquid nails (silicone glue), and pvc pipe cement though I would like to avoid the last one due to fumes.

>>1043180
I understand that, I mean the translation from the color on the model to the actual movement of two seperate motors.

I'm not sure if CMY or RGB is better.

I think I flubbed something in the firmware so I'll wipe it and retry.

>>1043179
I considered doing something similar and running Octopi because it is wifi compatible and you can add camera controls (I think) to a web server to start, stop, and monitor prints in real time. I thought this would be more straightforward, require less time, and possibly be more reliable out of simplicity. Obviously, it wasn't more simple or even doable at current.

But, I already have the stupid part and I don't want to throw away like $40, plus I am more determined to make it work than anything else. If I got it to work I could add Octopi later.

>>1043182
What type of parts? Printer parts? Printed parts? The latter can be welded with acetone if they are ABS, please clarify what you are asking for.

>>1043194
PLA printed parts sorry I'm half asleep.

>>1043187
CMY is for physical colours and RGB is for light (computer monitors etc.) AFAIK.

>>1043200
Only way I've found that works for PLA is CA.

>>1043163

I Don't know much abot diamond hotend, but this maybe this could be helpful: http://richrap.blogspot.si/2012/08/3-way-quick-fit-extruder-and-colour.html
or search on facebook for group : Diamond Hotend Users

Is there any difference between Marlin and Repetier? or why do you prefer Repetier?

I have some 5mm thick plexiglass available, would it be alright to laser cut a y-carriage out of it?

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Check out this warping monstrosity. The print has finished and even though it warped, it still stayed on the bed. Where it is more glossy there it has lifted from the bed and where is more matte there it was still adhering to the bed. I can understand that where it got lifted from the bed, that there will be some deformation. But what I don't understand is, how the fuck can some points be 3mm away from where they are supposed to be, while still being attached to the bed???
Just look at that slot in the middle. How? Or look at the holes. Non existent.
I knew it was weird when I had to lower extrusion multiplier for 10%, because it was over-extruding, but I wasn't expecting this.

what do that thing? is for artist or builder?

>>1043772
Are you printing at a high speed? I've noticed my corners get rounded when I do. Temp may be too high. Other than that I don't really know what could cause those issues, it's weird.

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>>1043828
Forgot to say. it is some HIPS I had for a while, but never tried it before. And on a bed I had Printafix (I am not sure if it is supposed to work with HIPS, on their site they only mention ABS and PLA, but HIPS is similar to ABS).
Speeds are not to high.Around 60m/s and 30mm/s for external perimeters to avoid too much ringing.

It is only the first 5mm in height that is weird, the rest of the print is fine.

>>1043856
Wait, HIPS? I've always read that it's supposed to be used as a support material, not as the actual printing material. I've never used it so I can't say for sure, but I'd take that into consideration if I were you.

What's your bed/extruder temps? I'm seeing beds of 50-80C and extruders from 220-240C. I can't find any info about Printafix and HIPS, but just because it has similar physical properties to ABS doesn't mean it has similar chemical/molecular properties, which might be the issue.

>>1043772
Is the left suppose to be printing exactly like the right? If so then you are printing way too fast and also you need to lower the layer height.

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>>1043864
As far as I understand HIPS is just as normal plastic as ABS and is also used in everyday use. It has similar properties as ABS (temps, strength, warping) except that HIPS is solvable in Limonene, which is good for support material. Extruder 230°C and bed 110°C.
I had attached another pic. You can see how only bottom 5mm is wierd and the rest is fine.
The only thing I can think of is that bed was too hot. That it was above glass transition temperature, which made plastic just soft enough that any residual forces in plastic started to pull/ push it around over time.

>>1043868
Yes. The right side is a CAD model. I saw the first layer being printed and it was printed just fine. Then I left the room and just check it from time to time. I saw that edges started to lift, but it didn't completely lift from the bed, so I just left it to continue printing. Only when it finished I saw what has happened underneath.
Those parts around the slot and holes were stuck to the bed. But still they have somehow moved around on the bed without lifting.

If anyone is wondering those grooves on the bottom and on the sides were my attempt to prevent warping and to prevent failing the print. It did warp, but it didn't fail. Now I don't know if it has worked or not.

>>1043921
>grooves prevent warping
How would you justify this? I would say that since there's less surface area to grip and more edges to cool off, it'd warp more.

>>1043934
Sharp edges rise up every now and then.

>>1043968
I find a skirt helps. Doesn't use much material, easy to trim (for simple/large parts), and saves a lot of hassle with glues/films/tapes/what-have-you.

>>1043921
>As far as I understand HIPS is just as normal plastic as ABS

it is. the back of my phone case is HIPS
its like polystyrene but better! since ABS is a styrene blend(?) alloy(?) they will bond to each other and it happens to be soluble in something not awful ,making it useful

>>1043921
>>1043934
>>1043968
>>1043971
Skirt 100%
Do 4-5 loops, .5mm away from print
This method works best for me, I've never had to deal with ABS lifting and .5mm is just far enough that the skirt peels off with minimal work while still be connected enough

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>>1043971
>>1044034
i have used 3mm brim. Maybe I should have used more. But I doubt it would help much. I have seen at one print the outer loop of brim was still stuck to the bed, while the edge of the part has lifted. At first look it looked like it is not lifting, but when looked closely I could see that the brim rises from bed to the edge of the part, which was lifted from the bed. I just think it is extremely crappy filament. I should put it for better use and us it as a string for grass trimmer.

>>1043934
I usually had problems before with warping when I was printing bigger parts, especially long parts. My understanding was that the long straight lines of filament cause warping. When you have a first layer cooled down to bed temp (let say 100°C ) it is stable. But then the next layer is 230°C when laid down and It adheres to bottom layer. But then it cools down to 100°C and therefore it contracts. If the forces of contraction are stronger than bed adhesion it warps (kind of like weird bimetallic strip), but if it isn't stronger than it is fine. But than you make more layers which means more forces. I was assuming that this effect is stronger if filament lines are longer. So my idea was to make a part that doesn't have long filament lines. I was trying to create some sort of expansion joints that would allow filament to contract, but not to warp the whole part.
On the bottom: grooves are deep enough to go trough all the solid bottom layers. It also makes segments. If one segment lifts, the rest of the segments are not directly affected. And the surface area isn't that much smaller.
In the side: Those grooves are there to disrupt long lines of filament and lower the forces of contraction. Try extending a piece of paper. You can't. But if you make an accordion from paper it is much easier to extend it.

This part was designed to allow warping. as long as it was able to finish. And it did. So the part is still useful.

How strong is the plastic that 3D printers use?

I'm trying to narrow my imagination down to the realm of possible 3D-printable things, and I want to know how much stress they can bear.

>>1044267
>expansion joints for printing
That's... actually a really good idea and I'm totally going to use it from now on.

>>1044433
http://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=3a8afcddac864d4b8f58d40570d2e5aa&ckck=1
MatWeb is your friend. If you want relative, vague answers - I can stand on a 20% infilled part (made of ABS) and it won't crumble under me if it's just a rectangular plate. Layer adhesion (shear) forces will be different and I don't know what they are, but that can be somewhat mitigated by acetone baths and/or if you have a decent quality printer which actually melts the layers together instead of just laying a bunch of strings next to each other.

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>>1044436
I have another picture if you are interested. it is 100mm long and basically no warping.

>>1044477
The only thing I'd be concerned about is concentration of forces (not sure what the English term is) resulting from those grooves.

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>TFW you bought a printer that uses DRM filament

>>1044433
If you want the absolute maximum possible strength, save your cash and buy a composite printer like a Markforged, those things can print Carbon Fibre-Nylon and Kevlar-Nylon which is basically aluminium in terms of strength.

>>1044546
What printer? I'm fairly sure some of the bigger asshole printers that do that have been hacked and can be made to use anything.

Or you can use the parts out of it to build your own possibly and get around it entirely.

>>1044546
This is why I don't want to get one of those $200 "works out of the box" printers; as much as I'd like to get a cheap non-prusa printer, the filament cost skyrockets compared to "open source" filament.

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Do you think i'll win the fight, lads?

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>>1044690
>99$
>quality high precision

What were you expecting? I wonder what Josef Prusa thinks about that his name is forever associated with the worst chinkshit that one can found.

>>1044690
No. You'll get your money back and if it's like the chingchongs I've dealt with, you'll be a negative review drop in the ocean of positive sockpuppets.
But don't stop.

I decided to look at 3D printers on a whim and about had a heart attack when I saw how expensive some of the ready-built stuff was, but then I was totally blown away by how affordable some of the kits I saw were by comparison. I didn't really go looking expecting to buy one, as much as I love the idea of having one, but it really got me thinking about going for it.

But where the hell do I even start? I had no idea there was such a ridiculous number of choices on the market. I'm handy enough to put one together without much trouble, but I'd probably be best off getting a complete kit unless the savings from buying parts piecemeal are really that significant.

What are some recommendations for good kits that will run me <$300? I know I probably won't get anything amazing for that price, but I'm still kinda getting over being a poorfag.

>>1044715
><300$
This guy might want to have a word with you.
>>1044690

I recommend that you built a repcrap by sourcing the motors, linear rods and belts from old inkjets.

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Just printed a bunch of battlebots frames. Main part of each frame was about a 4 hour print, while the top portion was an hour and a half print.

>>1044715
300$ I'd get one of the Monoprice printers, better than the kits at that price.

If you really want a kit, either FolgerTech 2020 i3 or the MakerFarm Pegasus 8", but the Pegasus will probably put you closer to 400$ after the power supply and glass.

>>1044619
XYZ DaVinci Jr

>>1044640
To be fair, it really does work well out of the box and it's literally 10x cheaper than having my prints done commercially (either by large businesses or a random guy on 3D hubs). I've calculated that I'd have to go through around 40 reels of filament for it to stop being a good deal compared to buying a more expensive printer and I bought it more to see whether having a printer on hand is something I want than as a long term device.

I intend to purchase a FlashForge Creator Pro for Christmas after I find out where I'm working (there's a reorganisation coming up) and get set up, based on my current consumption, that's right in line with where the printer stops being financially sensible.

>>1044720
I've read that painting liberally with a high temperature casting epoxy (rather than a thick adhesive, that won't wick) can help raise the softening point of the print.

>>1044730
To add: if there are any Brits in the West Country who'd like the DaVinci around Christmas time, I'd be happy to give it away to someone who wants to give 3D printing a go and doesn't mind the expensive filament.

>>1044505
Of course the grooves weaken the part. But in my case were essential, so I could get functional part. It is important how you position them. It is lever handle, so the width of the part is the most important. I could position grooves vertically like here >>1043921 , but in my opinion that would weaken it more. And I would say that it is still over-designed for intended use. And this kind of plastic is ductile material, so it would rather deform than crack in those points of concentrated force (If we are talking about micro-sized areas around sharp edges). Unless it splits between the layers. A lot depends on shape and layer orientation.

>>1044715
Something like Wanhao Duplicator i3 or its rebrands/clones Makerselect from Monoprice, Malyan M150 from Hobbyking,...
Or prusa i3 made from aluminium extrusions. Avoid acrylic ones. Which one to choose? it's hard to say. Everyone has some specific problems. Choose one, then google it for reviews ti see what those problems are and what the solutions are. Maybe start with Tevo Tarantula and see if it fits your needs or not.

>>1043921
I think you're right about the bed temperature being a little too high. HIPS is high impact polystyrene, which has a glass transition ~100ºC, so you might have been a little over at 110ºC. I haven't tried printafix or whatever but have had consistently good luck with purple glue stick on PEI. Also consider an enclosure (even just a cardboard box works ok) as it will help reduce the temperature differential as you move away from the bed.

>>1044024
ABS is a block copolymer of acrylonitrile (A), butadiene (B) and styrene (S); the properties will vary somewhat based on the different proportions of each. It's complicated, but if you're interested read up on block copolymers.

>>1044715
I'm this guy here >>1044690 I've actually built by own printers before (like CAD'd, sourced, and assembled from my own design) and once you do that, you start to know where all the problem areas are in the cheap kits. Hence the reason I'm fighting a Chinese guy on eBay.

If your willing to expend The time to learn, those 200 dollar kits can actually be de-chinaed fairly easily, and become working, actually good printers.

>>1044765
I agree, but don't forget the ~$100-$200 in upgrades you have to put into them too though (proper lead screws, a non-shit tier hotend, borosilicate glass plate/PEI, etc.). Personally, I'm in love with aluminum extrusion.

>>1039719
Is the outer layer way too thin from the slicer?

>>1044730
>XYZ DaVinci Jr
I'm fairly sure there are a couple ways around their DRM. I think the most permanent is flashing firmware with an Android device or something similar.

>>1044722
>>1044742
>>1044765
Thanks for the advice, anons. It's a little more than I initially wanted to spend, but at this point I'm looking at either the Duplicator i3 or Maker Select. There are just way too many Prusa variations for me to make a judgement call without some experience and the official stuff is out of my price range.

Is there really anything I'm going to miss by just getting the Maker Select? The Duplicator looks like it can handle some addition materials based on the spec sheets, and while I don't REALLY see myself printing in anything exotic in the near future, knowing that the capability is there would be nice.

tl;dr, is the extra dosh for the Duplicator i3 worth it over the Maker Select? It's only a $50 difference.

What do you guys think of this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2thSsQrZUM

>>1044823
So it costs a 50k a year plus the resin. To cover that cost you need to earn 150-200$ every day after the resin and labour costs just to break even. The build platform is small. The speed is said to be 25 times faster than SLA what is a huge plus and the materials seems to be fine.

Personally I wouldn't invest in it but the technology seems neat. With 50k I'd take an Objet and three Formlabs printers.

After hot tightening, are the nozzles on the E3D-lite supposed to be flush with the heating block?

>>1044889
generally yes, but if the heat break is in too far it won't. Shouldn't hinder performance much. it just means less contact area for nozzle to accept heat from the block.

>>1044904
OK, thank you for the clarification! The assembly instructions emphasized leaving a gap, but it seems that I made the said gap too wide.

>>1044889
I don't think so. I don't have it, but I was looking at instructions once and as far as I remember, It is important that that the top of the thread on the nozzle sits against bottom of the thread on heat break or whatever that part is called.

>>1044822
>The Duplicator looks like it can handle some addition materials
It doesn't matter what they say. It will melt anything that melts bellow 260°C (Even though I would rather keep it bellow 250°C). And filaments with particles (coperfill, bronzefill, carbon fiber,...) will degrade your nozzle. For those it is better to have hardened steel nozzle.
>is the extra dosh for the Duplicator i3 worth it over the Maker Select? It's only a $50 difference.
It is hard to say. There has been some improvements to duplicator i3 v2.1 (see here at the bottom:http://wanhaousa.com/products/duplicator-i3-steel-frame). according to pictures Maker select is not completely the last version. Are those changes worth $50? probably not. If you can wait 1 month the best deal would be to get Maker Select Plus for $400 imho.

Anyone ever have issues with cheap printers having exposed voltage?

I love how affordable 3D printing has become but at the same time the power supplies on low cost models do worry me. I do wonder about the wiring standards sometimes being fire hazards.

Guys, I'm trying to DIY an LCD based SLA like those below. Where can I get a cheap axis + driver from?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZK3RJJhBu0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2PhxAPz2I4

>>1044913
I had a feeling something like that would be the case with the filament types. So you'd say that the Select Plus is probably superior to the i3? The touchscreen and such do look like the kind of features that are nice to have even if they aren't essential. For the same price that seems like a nice bonus, since apparently the two are literally the same printer otherwise aside from the v2.1 improvements on the i3.

In reality it would probably be a while until I actually ordered one either way, so I can wait the month. Thanks again!

>>1044942
Check this video: it is kind of comparison between them all: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoEApsA7pAk
He also has reviews for all other versions.

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Has anybody bought recently a guide rails for 3d printer? What and were did you buy? How much did it cost? Do you have any problems?

Any recommendations for an extruder upgrade? The one that came with my chink i3 is just chewing the filament up even after I clean out the hot end.

>>1044927
I had a terminal block on my i3 start to smoke and melt one time. I just sawed it off and soldered the wires straight to the board. Im probably going to die in a fire soon.

>>1045303
The rails are cheap, the carts are fucking expensive. They are nice but completely not worth considering the price.
SBR type rails are cheaper but the good ol ground rods are just fine.

>>1045597
I did the same with mine. #YOLO

Switched to ABS today, and my bed cant deal with the temperatures people say you should be running. Packed the bottom with tin foil and let it heat for an hour and it was only at 102. Then the temperatures drop during printing, just because the damn thing isn't getting enough power to actually sustain the heat.

how many of you use 3D printing for not just fun, but profit?

I have some programming skills, but other than that, nothing really useful for making $$$. Was thinking about learning some 3D modeling and trying 3D printing to see if I can discover an avenue for some kind of career

>>1045597
Also did the same with mine. And then my other one blew up too so might do it to that too.

>>1045685
>>1045653
>>1045597
Whats causing that? Cheap chinese shaving literally fractions of a cent off production costs by using underrated terminals?

>>1045689
>Cheap chinese shaving literally fractions of a cent off production costs by using underrated terminals?
Literally this. There is a reason why it is called "chinkshit".

Anyone have any experience designing gearboxes for FDM manufacturing? And yeah I know, plastic on plastic is not optimal but I have no choice. I tried Fusion 360 but the gear generator scripts are awful.

>>1045710
Solidworks if you can get it. Maybe also try openscad.

>>1045649
I am looking at rails (width 15mm) for 60€/m and carts for 30€. I also saw them on Banggod for less, but they look super sketchy.

I just can't make up my mind. On one hand I want to make super duper printer with rails and Radds board and raps 128 drivers etc. But on the other hand is it really worth it? If I use ramps and rods it is almost half cheaper. What is the sweet spot ?

>>1045724
Well if you are knee deep in money and want to impress the ladies, go for rails, otherwise rods.

With rods, you just have to play with 4 ends to get them parallel, rails will need a stable base all the way, and precise mounting holes. You can get them parallel without special tools but its fiddly.

Also im thinking, you might still need just as many carts as linear bearings for rods. I just wouldn't spend that much on a thing that i can get for a fraction of a price. But thats just my opinion. If you go for it post pics.

>>1045595
E3D Lite 6.
I have one and it works flawlessly. Really a very print head.

>>1045689
This worries me about the Flashforge, but it seems decently made as far as I can tell and came recommended highly.

>>1045777
That's a hotend.

>>1045724
do rails
do rails and never look back

you can probably live with the BANGGOOD ones if you work them in/ rework them

but 30 euros(?) for a carriage is pretty decent

>>1045595
Wades extruder is always a safe bet.

Can anyone tell me how much force you use when manually pushing filament through an E3D v6 or Chimera?

I finally got my printer set up but the damn thing barely extrudes. I'm using Airtripper's bowden extruder and it strips all the plastic at any speed higher than 5mm/s in repetier's controls. It's driving me insane. I figure the problem is the E3D Chimera because when I try to extrude filament by hand it takes quite a bit of force to go down. I'm using whatever the default nozzle the Chimera has from Filastruder, which I assume is 0.4mm. I'm not sure where this problem is coming from.

>>1045958
ur a hotend

>>1046185
Lubricate your PLA filament with olive oil.

>>1046331
It's ABS

For some goddamn reason, my printer stops feeding at the exact same point in the print. Its not the code, because I can just push it a bit and it will start feeding again, so that means something's causing it to strip the filament. Which also makes no sense, because its been printing soft-ass PLA fine for months, but this ABS is fucking it up.

File: flashforge-pro.jpg (48KB, 600x493px) Image search: [Google]

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I've come into some money and want to move on from my DaVinci which is, in terms of filament use, fast approaching the point where the added price of the filament outweighs the initial saving on the printer.

The Flashforge Creator Pro looks like it meets my needs and is very comfortable within my budget. Can anyone recommend it or give a good reason why I shouldn't go for it and are there any alternative <£1000 printers I should also consider?

>>1046441
Have you cleaned your feeder? There could be some schmoo between two teeth which is just large enough to cause it to skip.

>>1046535
Every time it fucks up I take it apart and clean out the teeth. There's always a ton of plastic dust in there, which is a little odd. The other times I only caught it after a few layers, so some buildup is expected, but the last time I kept my finger lightly touching the filament so I'd know when it stopped feeding, and killed it right as that happened. Same amount of dust, so it must be shredding the whole time.

>>1046538
Your feed teeth could be rough or improperly tensioned. Mine only crunch on filament when they're making a laughable attempt to retract it for a changover (I always end up disconnecting the feed tube and winding it out manually), otherwise, there's not so much as tooth mark in fed filament.

>>1037701
I plan on getting my engagement ring from shapeways.I'm a concept artistfocused more on design in 2d but I am quite familiar with sculpting. I'm designing it now and will order the first test in a week or so.

pretty neat that they do the molds and forging/smelting of the gold as well as polish it for you. I just gotta get the right stones, take them to a professional to get them in there and I'm set.

I gave up on trying to find the right ring and figured making one myself was the way to go.

>>1046556
While it's cool as hell you might want to price up taking your design to a jeweller, you could end up paying significantly more to have it printed.

My Z-axis bed falls on its own after idling for a bit. Is it too heavy for my motors? They go up just fine...

>>1046591
After idling for a certain amount of time, the motors are disabled.

The be bed is heavy enough to fall down when the motor isn't running, than its pretty heavy but that's not a huge issue.

File: unnamed.jpg (52KB, 1676x945px) Image search: [Google]

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Any ideas on why a print would shift to the upper right? First print on a corexy.

>>1046713
loose belts, overheating stepper drivers

>>1046713
Loose drive pulley. I had the same problem when I started my printer up.

>>1046739
I think my belts are tight enough that they wouldn't slip on their own. And my stepper drivers only get warm at best.

>>1046535
Have one.

Good money for what you get I think. Does decent quality.

Things to know:

Left and Right hotend may not be even. So you may need to adjust that for both to work. I kept having it drag the right through the left's prints but nothing a socket can't fix.

Unless you want to print out a new fan duct PLA only work on the left. Haven't tried the fan duct yet, since I need to buy a fan for it.

Glue Stick was all I could get to work to stick thinkgs down by default. Don't buy the third party glass kit or any of that shit. The brackets don't work on that kit for garbage. Buy a sheet of PEI plastic and a 3M glue sheet. Peel of its default built surface when you are done with it (heat the bed first) and apply the PEI plastic. Never fuck the with the bed again because it will stick everything and never need anything extra on it.

Careful if you cancel leveling it. I have had it think it needed to lower the bed when it wasn't all the way up and try to lower through the floor. Kinda my fault really.

The software it comes with is kinda meh, but Slic3r works just fine for it and you can google setup for that.

Astroprint seems to work better than Octoprint for it and I really recommend using a Pi as it makes 3D printing a lot lazier.

Thingiverse has side covers, a cable management clip, and filament guide you may want to print as they do help a little.

ProtoPasta upgrades are actually decent if you want to go beyond PLA/ABS with all metal parts or steel nozzles for glow in the dark/metal PLA or flexible stuff.


I still worry I'll discover some shitty part in the build because China. But so far it just seems to be an unbranded Makerbot(assholes) and puts out good quality overall.

I've not really found much in i ts price range that does that well and can do both PLA/ABS/etc. Unless someone else knows of another option in that range.

>>1046757
Thank you very much for such a comprehensive response, I really appreciate it.

>>1046821
No problem. Its a good printer and I liked that it was enclosed, bit noisy thought not bad.

Thought I might save someone the little trials it put me through to get consistent quality.

>>1046713
Post pictures of your printer pls.
Probably pulleys. If the screws on pulleys got loose, use Loctite 243. It also could be stepper motor missing steps if the speed/acceleration/jerk is too high and current is too low.

>>1046757
How much do you use dual extrusion? Du you use it for dual colours or different materials or support?

>>1046883
Never used it.

Partly from the leveling issue of trying to get both nozzles to line up perfectly to each other. Partly from not really having anything to print that needed it . And I also do a lot of after print refining myself and while I learned on ABS, I largely print PLA because its harder and picks up details better.

I do use it to have ABS and PLA loaded at the same time, but in ways its almost easier to swap filaments over evening the nozzles. Though part of why that is the case is once you level a nozzle you are using it pretty much stays level. I had heard for many you need to level a printer every few prints and sadly this one is manual leveling, but honestly I think I haven't needed to in about 50 prints and counting.

In a way I almost wish it was a single extruder for speed, but it moves pretty fast and its direct drive anyway so I was already going stability over speed anyway.

>>1043120
Newfag here as well.
Just ordered this delta:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjOGB6U_amY

Seems to print pretty solid stuff and looks really durable.

>>1046535
If you can live without enclosure and dual extruders you should check out Original Prusa i3 MK2.

File: IMAG0455.jpg (2MB, 1840x3264px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1046745
I don't think they're loose. Didn't take it apart but I checked it and it seems on there.

Could it be because the two XY motors are getting different amounts of power? One has a cable that's like 20 inches longer.

>>1046883
Excuse the mess. Because the frame encloses it from all sides it's kinda hard to see.

The bolts that hold the Y carriage on get loose every month or so, and its a complete pain in the ass getting that shit tightened again. Im considering JB Weld.

>>1047093
Thanks. You are the guy I need.
How much have you paid and where did you buy linear rails?
Where did you buy and how much for heated bed and relay ? and also alu bed? Is it 300x300?

>>1047092
He may be right on this. Enclosure is pretty useful but with PEI beds its not always needed and building an acrlyic box isn't hard.

I prefer beds that move down rather than side to side though during printing. Not that it matters much I guess in the end.

Honestly yea the MK2 may be the better buy as I have found dual ends more headache than value. Don't think it was out at the time when I got my Forge.

>>1047098
http://stores.ebay.com/vipwindows168/

Contact them by email or something. I bought 7 420mm rails and 6 MGN12C blocks and 1 MGN12H block for around $350 or something. They claim they're genuine Hiwin made rails but who really knows, it's a mainland Chinese shop. Since I've never used genuine rails I have no idea how they should be, but they seem to move nicely, but the MGN12Cs aren't tight or anything, but that might be because MGN12C is a low/no preload block.

I got the aluminum from this: https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/castaluminumplateatp5

Wait a bit because once every week or two they have 10 or 15% aluminum plates. It's a 6mm thick 320x320mm (about, need room for screw holes) cast plate so it's actually a little heavy. I could fit something bigger but I thought things might get too heavy so I settled for 320x320mm for now.

I bought the 100A relay from Auber for around $20, and the heated bed from aliexpress for $40 shipped. It's 12V, 22A or something like that powered by a 750W ATX PSU.

If you have the money you should consider commissioning a heated bed from keenovo. They make mains powered beds with a standalone temp controller. They're expensive but they look really nice like finished electronics should, and I regret not getting one in the first place. I bought a mains powered bed from robotdigg but decided to avoid wiring mains stuff and got a 12v bed with a high amp SSR and in total I probably spent like $120 to get the silicone heater stuff set up. And you need a powerful PSU to power it, luckily I got my PSU for cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/30x30cm-750W-120V-Silicone-Heater-Cube-3D-Printer-Heatbed-w-Digital-Control-Plug-/281716682121?hash=item41979f6d89

A keenovo heated silicone pad and a Duet Wifi are on my list for next improvements.

Could anyone comment on the cooling on the Original Prusa i3 MK2?

I see it has a blower fan, but I can't see from photos if it gets evenly cooled or if its just focusing on one side, which tends to make parts different on each side. Not horrible, but nice if you can avoid it.

>>1047092
Thank you but two of my requirements are dual head and an enclosure.

>>1047112
>building an acrlyic box isn't hard
It is for me (dyspraxia). I can toil away on the computer for hours and get what I want but 5 minutes with any sort of hand tool results in disaster, that's what I love about 3D printers.

>>1047248
No tools needed. Sheets of it just glue together. But if you need a dual extruder Flashforge is one of cheaper and decent solutions out there. Dual ABS will work as is, but if you want dual PLA you'll need a fan mod.

>>1047248
You don't need acrylic. Just get some corrugated plastic and tape it together or something. It'll give you enough insulation for a heated chamber as long as you don't have big gaping holes between the sheets.

Corrugated plastic is polystyrene so it'll hold up to 50ishC easily, which is at most what you want from an enclosure before you start going over the recommended ambient temp for Nema 17 motors.

Almost got my reprapguru i3 kit finished after two days. Nothing happens when I send commands from repetier, so I'm thinking I just need to fix some wiring somewhere. Anyways, feelsgoodman.

>>1034354
An architecture firm wants me to help them buy a 3d-printer. Their budget is around 3000$. Some of the people working there are quite old and I assume they aren't that good at troubleshooting. It's been a while since I bought my printrbot so I'm not sure what I should recommend. Are SLA printers viable for this price range? Which ABS/PLA printers are the easiest to operate?

>>1047113
thanks.
I will probably buy cheap AC 230V silicone mat from ebay and SSR. Do you have a heat sink on relay? The only thing that bothers me with SSR is that if it fails it shorts out. That could fuck things up.
After all I had decided that I won't buy rails. I will go with rods and bearings (but now I can't decide between lm8uu and bushings) .
I am making dual x carriage, so I want to see how it works before I spend too much money.
I need 6 stepper motors and I was planing to buy Ramps and Expansion Module Board (http://www.banggood.com/42-Stepper-Motor-Driver-Expansion-Module-Board-For-A4988-DRV8825-3D-Printer-p-1079134.html) for one more stepper motor.
But then I found out that if I use two extruders, then I can't have g-code controlled fan. Now I am looking at MKS Gen v1.2 (http://www.banggood.com/MKS-Gen-V1_2-3D-Printer-Control-Board-With-DRV8825-Driver-p-973826.html) also with expansion module. Unless someone has any other recommendation???

>>1047185
It is just from one side. See step 17. http://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/5.+Extruder+Assembly/114

>>1047410
Yeah, the SSR has a massive heatsink mounted on the bottom. I got the heatsink from amazon for a few bucks. That said, if you get the Keenovo heated silicone pad with the controller you won't need a SSR, the controller can control the temperature on its own.

You don't need 6 motor driver slots, the z-axis on a RAMPS 1.4 has one driver and two slots for motors. You can get a fan extender for ramps but it's like $20. I think I got mine from makerfarm in the US but banggood might have some too.

But what is in that keenovo controller? probably SSR?
I am building two independent x carriages, so I need 6 motors. basically this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7UZnmu6dQU , but hopefully even better.

File: Wiring.jpg (244KB, 2558x1284px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1047761
This was a reply for >>1047476
>>1047476
My new plan is this. Pic related. First this switch to turn printer on and off: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10A-250V-Inlet-Module-Plug-Fuse-Switch-Male-Power-Socket-3-Pin-IEC320-C14-/252163480447
Then power relay like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OMRON-ELECTRONIC-COMPONENTS-G5RL-1E-HR-5DC-RELAY-PCB-SPCO-5VDC-/271384923720?hash=item3f2fcd4e48:g:ta8AAOxyDEVSa74j and than SSR. SSR is controlled by bed outputs on the board. For power relay; I will probably have to modify something in firmware so it will provide 5V somewhere on AUX1 right before the print start. I don't know how exactly to do that yet. That turns on power relay on and after that SSR controls the bed. When the print finish, power relay turns off. It also goes off if any of safety protections get triggered. In this way it can prevent catastrophe if SSR dies and shorts. If power relay dies it usually stays open. But if it only turns on and of couple times a day it really shouldn't die anytime soon.

What do you think about this?
Electricity is really not my strength and would like to hear someones opinion who knows about this stuff. Will also ask on /ohm/ to see what they think.

>>1047761
I have no idea, it's all in a neat little box. I guess it's some sort of SSR or any sort of switching circuit using a mosfet. Since it's mains powered (120 or 230V) it only needs like 3--6A, which is very low current.

Oh, I see. I've seen that before. You might want to consider 10mm rods or something for X-axis, it'll be heavy to have two separate x-carriages even if you park them when out of use.

You should ask /ohm/, I don't know much about wiring, I just learned enough to wire my printer with a SSR. It looks like it has more protection than my printer. If my SSR fails open I'm just going to have to switch off the PSU.

>>1047981
for sure

Any one have any experience with the m3d printer? The mini is out, was kind of kicking around the idea of putting money down on the pro kickstarter.

>>1047377
>SLA
>3000$
Does not compute. The cheapest option would be Form 2.

I'd recommend powder bed fusion or powder bindering for architecture but those cost way more.

Any deals this labor day weekend on 3D printers?

Looking for some help with my geared extruder.

Printed it and calibrated the steps so that extruding 10mm actually extrudes 10mm.

Problem is hitting retract on the Repetier host just makes the motor buzz but not retract. Any idea what settings I should be looking at?

>>1048384
might be the retract speed is too high? don't really know

Weird question: I have my delta 3d printer, and I want to make sure that it is moving the hot end carriage correctly. Can I run a "print" without having it heat up/run filament? Could I just try unplugging the hot end and filament feed motor?

>>1048132
What about Zortrax M200?

>>1048511
Repetier-Host has a function called dry run, but it only works with repetier firmware. I have never tried it though.
Unplugging probably wouldn't work. There is safety function in firmware that prevents printing if extruder is below certain temperature (eg 150°C). You would have to modify the firmware and also gcode. you could try setting temp at 160°C and change extrusion multiplier to 0 (or as low as it gets). Maybe.

>>1048517
M200 is at least 2 years old design. I got made some samples on M200 almost 2 years ago, and print quality was really good. The problem is that you always have to print with raft, because of its bed design and is basically waste of filament. But it is very easy to remove. The other thing is that you have to buy their filament, because (at least at that time) you could't change temperatures. There was some info about hacking it, so you could also use other filament, but that voids the warranty. On the other hand, slicer was really simple to use.

>>1048384
Does this also happen during print? What firmware do you have? What gcode is repetier sending when you press retract?
Is there any possibility that you have somehow made gears so they can only spin in one direction and lock up in the other direction?

>>1048024
Watch this and read comments: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mX9ADIj0yyU

>>1048024
I've heard nothing bad bad about that printer. Would not recommend.

>>1048536
>M200 is at least 2 years old design. I got made some samples on M200 almost 2 years ago, and print quality was really good. The problem is that you always have to print with raft, because of its bed design and is basically waste of filament. But it is very easy to remove. The other thing is that you have to buy their filament, because (at least at that time) you could't change temperatures. There was some info about hacking it, so you could also use other filament, but that voids the warranty. On the other hand, slicer was really simple to use.


Thanks for the info. Any other printer you'd recommend for around 3000$? Keep in mind I want as little maintenance as possible.

>>1048557
I only saw M200 in person. Everything else I will say is from the internet in is already a second hand information.
SLA: quite messy. You have to clean every part with alcohol, wear gloves, sometimes cure it under UV light, fish out any solid particles from the resin and you have to use it constantly, so that resin doesn't solidify.
FDM: A that price you can either go really big build volume (like 300x300x300mm or even more) or you can go with enclosed printer. You should kind of make priority list what it will be used for. Does it need enclosure? (fumes, sound, protection from fingers, this could render a lawsuit "3d printer gave me cancer"). How big build volume it needs? Dual extrusion ( soluble support material)? Do they know limitations of 3d printer? How tech savvy are people there? If they can barely use normal printer for paper then I doubt they would be able to use 3d printer. Unless they go to some sort of class for 3d printing. I don't know how are you related to this firm but this could seriously backfire back to you if you choose wrong printer or they don't know how to use it.
Generally are those printers that have proprietary filament more user friendly interface, because you don't have to deal with so many variables. (like Zortrax M200) But you pay more for filament.

hey there /3dpg/ !

I've been thinking about finally getting into 3d printing for a while and I've been aproached about the adquisition of a BQ Hephestos. It's a prusa i3 at a 500€ price tag, Now that still sounds to me like a lot of money and i'm adamant about it. Would it be overpaying or is the quality of the elements you're getting worth the price? it's got the same extruder they use for the witbox and it's PLA only (another aspect of my concern). I've been looking around and peple seem mosylt happy about it but it's mainly first users, I've been lurking here for a few months now and given the experience level in here i'd feel better if someone in here could take a peek at it and tell me what they think.

Thanks in advance!

>>1048638
500€ for the Hephestos 1 is a rip off. You can get an equivalent chinese kit for less than half the price. Tom did a review of the Hephestos 2, which is better but still has minor problems.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5RdIkFj9w0

I would say that currently, the Official Prusa i3 MK2 is the best value at about 750€ IIRC, but see if you can hold off till the E3D v6.1 comes out. The MK2 is a very technologically advanced kit and cheaper alternatives with the same innovations and features aren't available yet. Tom was very happy with it during his live build; expect a review sometime this week.

Anyone making their own filaments have experience with mixing in additives?

>>1048651

Thanks for the quick reply man. Fucking knew this would be the reply... Still, 750€ is more than what I'd feel comfortable about spending, even with the understandig than it'll prob be saving money on the long run due the benefits of the new system. Would you say that 500€ or lower is an unrealistic budget for worthwhile and usable results? I'd like to present a similarly priced alternative if not a reduced one to the original suggestion that represented a good investment instead of a 250 budget rise...

>>1048660
>Would you say that 500€ or lower is an unrealistic budget for worthwhile and usable results?
No, but most likely you have to tinker with it way more to get good results.

>>1048850

Anything in partiuclar that you'd recommend or avoid?

>>1048660
500€ can get you the nice P3 steel i3 kit with an E3D v6 and new polymer bearings. There are many add-ons that you can omit like a LCD screen, PSU, etc if you already have the stuff or don't need it.

Also I misspoke, the i3 MK2 is 610€ + 20€ shipping, which is a wonderful deal as it has bed leveling, PEI bed, hollow shafted Z-motors, trapezoidal z-axis screws, and an aluminium frame.

>>1048660
For 300€ buy Chinese i3 made from alu extrusions. For 500€ you buy Wanhao i3 Plus. For 750€ you buy Original Prusa i3. (740 including tax or 610 excluding tax). That would be my advice. And whatever you choose check the reviews on youtube and google to see what you are dealing with.
And hepestos 1 or 2 are not worth the money imo.

>>1048887
The wanhao does not look very robust to me for 500 bucks, thought might just be on me, I think i'll start to give a look at sourcing my own components and drop by the local makerspace to see if i could drop the price on the prusa mk2 by printing the parts myself and just getting the electronics and essentials. And if not just ay the full price...

>>1048928
Wanhao is made from folded sheet metal and as far as I know it doesn't use any 3d printed parts. I would dare to say it is more robust than original prusa mk2. Prusa is using their own design of bed and autoleveling sensor (I think it has smaller diameter then those that you can buy) and bed has some special spots for xy warp calibration and mesh Z calibration. So without that you could be as well buying chinese i3 and swap extruder with E3D v6.

>>1048942
Mainly concerned about the belts, and the tensioners it uses after watching some reviews. I guess you can always upgrade those and the extruder if theres ever a need to, specialy if you say their folded metal frame is good. Thank you so mutch for the help. I will place an order soon. Cant wait to get experienced with it

>>1048233
I saw that wanhao usa has some discounts on their printers for labor day. http://wanhaousa.com/products/duplicator-i3-plus-steel-frame
(Forgot to write this on previous post )

>>1049004
I am assuming you are from EU, so here are some different stores. Beware prices may vary a lot. http://wanhao3dprinter.eu/where-to-buy
From those stores I only know 3DPrima and they have free shipping in EU if you buy over 100€.

>>1048500
You were right!!
The default speed was something like 5000, I took a zero off the end and now it is printing perfectly!!
Thank you.

>>1049022
*tips sombrero*

>>1048599
Enclosure is a must, they have a small workshop in the back of their office where they make models out of kappa board and veneer. I was at a job interview with them, but I ended up being hired at a different office, then they called me and remembered me talking about 3d printing at my interview. The guy who interviewed me had gone to the same technical university as me so I'm quite sure he isn't completely technology illiterate. I'll talk to them at tuesday and explain that all 3d-printers need troubleshooting and maintenance. I think the Zortrax M200 is the one I'm going to recommend as the best choice, especially since it's available already imported here in Norway.

lurker here


Bit the bullet and jumped the gun on a MP Select Mini while they were in stock, got it less than advertised.
I'm a complete beginner, so I figured I'd get a compact pre-built or a delta kit like the other anons have suggested in this thread.


So, just so I get this straight, after I get things setup and calibrated, I load my stl files in Cura or Craftware and generate a gcode file. then, it's the gcode that goes on the SD or USD to the printer? I could plug the printer directly to my PC too though, yeah?


Also, I can't seem to get Craftware to properly make skirts in the preview. I've seen screenshots of supports, but I'm not too sure how to do it.
Cura generates skirts for me automatically, though.


Another thing, should I get this kapton stuff for my print bed?

Just wanted to promote this faggot, he's been doing tensile tests of various printing materials at different temperatures and layer heights. Really surprised by the results as my experience has been shit prints with zero layer adhesion and terrible infill.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48NC0KDmcBo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqGKI5ZvCO8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXeeRhoriIo

>>1049541
To connect printer to the computer you need so called Host software. I use Repetier Host, there is also Pronterface. Repetier-Host also has slicer built in. I really don't know if Cura is also a host, but I think I heard that Craftware is.
There must be some sort of setting for supports in Craftware. It is even supposed to have option for adding extra supports or removing where you don't like it.
Skirts must also be somewhere in settings. Slic3r for example, has Simple and Expert mode, where expert mode has more options. It might be also something like this in Cure or craftware. Generally is not recommended to print directly from computer, because it might go to sleep or loose connection just for a second and then its fucked.
Try printing first directly on the bed, if it doesn't work try painters tape or gluestick. That should work for PLA. And you probably won't be printing ABS considering bed goes only to 60°C.

>>1049736
>tensile testing things that are shaped like that
I understand what he's trying to do but it's wrong. Unless he has a very good reason for making them that shape, the center needs to be much longer and wider, and there cannot be any sharp angles on the biscuit.

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I'm looking for some purple PLA filament and the one I've wanted has been out of stock for nearly a year. What other brands except Hatchbox have good quality for a similar/same price? I've never gotten anything except that brand. I've heard good things about eSun but at $14.00/kg it sounds too good to be true.

Any suggestions?

>>1049866
I know, he's using fucking charpys basically but give him a break; he appears to be a normie.

Anyone using marlin can help me out. Are there commands to read/set a free i/o port?

>>1049736
You know I've always wondered why people don't just try baking their filament on the heated bed with cardboard over it. It's only 65C

Hi guys, im building an mendel prusa i2 (i got the frame for very good price 20$ with 2 motors pulleys etc.... Thats why im building the i2 and not the i3)
And i wanna convert it to a cnc miin machine (e very simple one) What software u guys recomend?
I use repitle for 3d printing

File: 20160906_114613.jpg (3MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]

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ITT: 3D printing pictures that just make you angry

does anyone know where i could buy a CoreXY printer frame without electronics? i was fucking tired of my shitty ass prusa ( fuck him for making such a shitty design ) so i tossed the frame and now i'm looking for a new one. unfortunately most of them come with electronics.

>>1050300
What was wrong with the frame on your prusa?

>>1050300
why not just upgrade to a steel frame for your prusa?

>>1050279
>direct drive delta

But y tho?

>>1050300
>shitty ass prusa
>shitty design
Wow, you really don't know what you're talking about, huh? There's a reason it's one of the most popular models in the world.

>>1049749
Thanks for the input.


I read some reviews and saw that the Select Mini comes with tape already applied to the bed. It doesn't seem like it's that durable, but I have a roll of tape for when it becomes too worn.

I also saw that the product page says that the heated bed only goes up to 60C, but I did some research and found that the temp can be increased to ~85C or higher. The stock firmware limits the temp to 60C, but with a program like Craftware, there's a setting that can override it easily. Other modifications might be needed to aid prints (insulating the underside of the bed, making an enclosure), but they seem pretty simple.
Maybe anyone else here that's buying the Select Mini and wants to print ABS can try this, too.


I will be printing with PLA at first until I get some ABS, though.
Printer will be here soon, hopefully first prints go without a hitch.
Can't wait.

>>1050444
Yeah, the reason you are looking for is the fact that it is one of the oldest reprap designs, and was adopted because there was little to choose from. CoreXY is leaps ahead, but the problem is that everyone started making their own designs left and right, and therefore the community never settled on one corexy printer design.

The design is fucked, because originally the YZ plate is only needed , therefore it flexes and vibrates while printing ( moving the hotend with it as well). While you can fix it by adding diagonal threaded rods to support the plate, it pretty much ends up as a Mendel with a CNC"d metal plate that is just more expensive than threaded rod used in Mendel.

Besides that, the X and Y axises have different mass, so one of them becomes a bottleneck for speed. corexy delivers equal performance for both axises.

>>1050892
>oldest
It's only a few years old, I don't see how it's "one of the oldest designs"
>design is fucked
>flexes and vibrates while printing
I've never encountered issues with either. At all.

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>>1050652
First print came out decent.


I have a question for anyone that uses Craftware:
How would you print solid objects?

I know that in Cura there's an option that can set Infill to "Solid", but Craftware isn't as straightforward.
Would these settings work?
>pic related
Should I set the solid infill to print at 45 degrees?
Should I have left the speed to 150%? I have a feeling things maybe come out sloppy that way, though.

Also, is 240C a good temp for PLA prints? It's what I used on my first print, there were some stray lines of PLA in between long passes, but everything was mostly fine.
Would 240C work for ABS?

>>1051006
If you put 100% on Infill Density, it should create solid object.
Infill usually doesn't really need to be very accurate, so higher speed for infill is usually good thing. But higher speed also means that it has to melt and extrude more material. If your hotend can't melt the plastic quick enough you get grinding on filament. Best option is to try higher speed and see if it works.
The orientation of infill generally doesn't really matter. Sometimes it depends on geometry and position of an object. check the preview of gcode and if it looks fine it is fine.
I have printed different PLA from 160 to 210°C. But never at 240, this seems a bit too high. Recommended temperature should be written on box or spool of filament. It also depends how accurate the measurement of temperature is. With every new filament I get I usually do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSOPsRiiOZk

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anyone ever try a paste extruder? I'm mildly curious and may try it out.

>>1039719
Don't bother with sanding it if you want it totally smooth. Use an acetone vapor bath instead.

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Hi guys,

Sinking my money into a Wanhao Dupicator i3 v2.1. I've watched reviews, seen the videos, done my research. Wanted to know if any owners are here and there are things I should know before buying. Thanks.

>>1051556
I have the older v1. It's nice. Get a glass plate, and probably do the Z brace mod. I've done more mods, but those are the ones I think are the best.

>>1048024
I had the M3D. Biggest piece of shit printer. I got maybe one print to come out right and it took 8 hours for a small print.

I switched to the Flashforge Finder and love it.

Are there any technical books on additive manufacturing? Im not interested in coffee table books on fdm, or makezine crap. But the more methods are described the better.

Some of my students are interested in it. I would like to give them good books that they can reference in their projects or thesis.

>>1052410
This is the best I've seen by this far.
http://www.springer.com/us/book/9781493921126

>>1052535
found it here
https://nitroflare.com/view/3F98965B29ACB18/1493921126.rar

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Just built my first printer but i think somethings fucked.
I uploaded marlin on the Mega and then wanted to test the steppers in Repetierhost.

Guess what, nothings moving. The display works fine and i can navigate through the menue but i think there might be something wrong with the ramps board.

I can measure 12V from the power supply but as soon as i connect it to the ramps board the voltage drops to 0.8V. Also the fuse F1 is getting quite hot.

Do any of you have a suggestion what could be the issue here? I double checked and everythings wired properly so im quite lost.

>>1052920
Best I can think of is to pick an axis and test your stepper drivers and motors one at a time. A shorted stepper driver can pull lots of current, so maybe check that; if that's it the failed driver will be very hot so be careful.

>>1052920
Actually disregard the previous post. You have power wired to your 11A channel, which feeds a heated bed. To feed the steppers (and the hot end), connect the power to the other two terminals. Your board may be fucked, as you suggest, as you shouldn't be pulling enough current to drop your voltage like that with no bed attached.

Is there a way to get the profiles for Simplify3D?

I was considering buying it but wish to see if it works first, since many things that are suppose to work for my printer can sort of, but often are a misery to get going well. Cura for example. Nice program, but not exactly native to this one.

Doing okay with Slic3r, but tall, round, or pointed prints really need some tweaking that I may be too stupid to do in this program.

I have it narrowed down to heat, cooling, or extrusion rate some I'm running some comparisons, but I still wouldn't mind giving Simplify a try.

What's the best CAD software for someone with SolidWorks experience? I'm a student so I can get SolidWorks, but it's not gonna be that way forever and besides the filesize is fuckhueg on my tiny laptop partition.

>>1053554
Solidworks

>>1053251
One thing to consider.
You can't use it on a PC with no internet connection, Ther DRM is shit like this and won't let you use it when it can't reach its servers.
Fucked me up pretty good.

>>1053113
Actually its hooked to the 5V channel already.

After stripping the board from all the components, and connecting it to the powersupply, i got the same voltage drop to ~0.8V.
Ill check if any of the diodes might be bad. Thank you for your advice anyway.

How often do you guys use your printers to make things?

I'm considering getting one but I can't justify $300+ for a tool I'd rarely use after setting it up.

>>1053682
A few times a week for me. I'll go through stages where I don't print anything and then I'll find something on Thingiverse I really like.

If you end up going with a very low-end model like a M3D, you're gonna hate printing. XYZ has a DaVinci on sale right now for $299 on Amazon. They're not the best, but also not the worst, and you can get your feet wet without breaking the bank.

>>1053738
How does davinci compare to tevo tarantula?

>>1053744
Not 100% sure, honestly. I do know that they have the same build sizes and the Tevo Tarantula has a heated build plate - which is definitely a plus.

The Da Vinci comes pre assembled and not in a kit, which greatly reduces and chance of messing up.

The biggest thing, and for me this was what steered me away from the Da Vinci, was that it is closed source filament. You have to buy their filament which comes in a special container, so the printer knows if you try using something else. There are ways around this, but it's a huge pain.

There are pluses and minuses in each case. There are definitely some better options out there if you're willing to spend some more money.

>>1053554
FreeCAD? Haven't used it but it claims to be an open-source alternative.

>>1053588
Well I'm honestly more interested in seeing its suggested settings for different things.

I honestly can't seem to get the quality most do out of a FlashForge. Bit by bit I've fixed issues, but its getting down to a fine tuning that may be beyond my understanding now.

>>1053554
Autodesk Fusion 360

>>1051186
>400 dollars for a fucking rate controlled squirt gun

I'd print dildos tbdesu

>>1053926
Bad idea because of the layers not being sealed; you have to give it a vapor bath (if ABS) or seal it somehow.

>>1051166
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSOPsRiiOZk
Thanks for that.


I just switched over to ABS, so I'm calibrating temps this way.
Craftware makes this easy, due to putting custom scripts and not having to manually go over the gcode.
The script I used along with that video's directions looks like this, in case anyone else is using Craftware:
10mm temp change script (heights in mm):

>if (zPassed(10)) setHeadTemp(235);
>if (zPassed(20)) setHeadTemp(230);
>if (zPassed(30)) setHeadTemp(225);
>etc.


My bed temp gets up to 82-83C (set at 85C in the slicer settings, though) and starts printing, but I'm having problems with the first layer sticking/warping.
It's weird because the skirt sticks very well, but the actual print's first layer start to lift and warp more and more as the print gets higher.
The print's sides look wavy every 10mm or so.
Like this:
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#wallcavein

Right now, I've got it printing with a brim, and it looks better so far (brim seems to have lifted slightly at the corners, but the print looks less wavy).
All the starting temps are at 240C so far.

I think I will be investing in a glass bed soon.
Should be better than printing on the tape coated with hairspray.

Also, should I consider using a heat gun/hairdrier on the bed to prep?
The recommended range is 220C-260C, so would a higher starting temp help the first layer/brim stick better?
Like I said, I've only gotten through a few tests at 240C today.

>>1054242
Or should I try just try printing on the bare aluminum heated bed for now?

>>1054242
>>1054243
Few tips since I've tried a lot of these things myself.

Glass is garbage. Its benefit is that it doesn't warp, but for adhesion and sanity it is a waste of time unless you are sticking something else to it, which you can just do to your default bed.

Aluminum distributes heat better. Generally a bed temp of 100-110 works better for ABS. If your printer isn't enclosed making a little box to go over it will help.

ABS will sometimes take a little extra as well like a gluestick (which I found the most effective). Hairspray works but it takes too many coats to be good on time.

Painters tape looses its grip at higher temps so it shifts too much, this could be part of your issue. If it shifts you'll get a wave. Which is another problem I have with glass beds as they usually have some adapter to hold them on the regular bed, which can shift and warp prints. This can also be cause if your printer is jolting at any point from a loose belt or part.

Keep the nozzle 240C or under if you are not using an all metal hotend. Teflon breaks down past that and releases fumes.

What printer do you have?

It depends on that a bit, but for most I will say grab a piece of PEI plastic, but it to the size of your bed (its then a razor or 2 dollar glass cutter will do) and glue it to your bed with a two sided 3M glue sheet.

PEI is chemically similar to all those bed adhesion products and glue sticks, but only when its hot. So your bed is actually prepared by heating it. And stuff pops off when cold with minimal force.

Anyone ever PID tuned a bed? Having problems with the bed getting up to temp. Usually it heats up no problem the first print of the day, but any print afterwards the bed does not heat up to the correct temp. Is tuning the bed the same as tuning the hotend?

>>1054242
check bed levelness and try printing at different lower bed temps
also check to make sure your bed temp actual temp like with an infrared or thermocouple

ive had abs success with
kapton tape
abs/acetone slurry on the bed
hot as shit first layer for the hotend
fat as shit first layer print width,
like as wide as you can go
I would adjust my first layer height by finding the point where it couldnt extrude on the bed, and backed it up from there

i have glass beds with parts stuck to them that i cant take off

>>1054277
>What printer do you have?
Monoprice Select Mini

I'm sure the hotend is full metal.


I already have a glass bed on order, but I'll be looking to buy a sheet of PEI now, too, considering.


>>1054321
I do have an IR thermometer somewhere, so I will double check for accurate bed temps when I find it.


I was able to get ABS to stick to the tape with hairspray, but when I got the print off, it took the tape with it, so I guess it's time to move on from tape on the bed if I'm going to keep using ABS.
The bed actually didn't go above 80C that time for some reason. I used a wide brim and a filled in first layer. The walls of the print warped significantly less.


I'll keep these points in mind though, thanks.

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Looking at a folgertech i3 2020 aluminum kit.

Is it any good? Or is something better about to hit the market/already available?

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>new all-metal hotend
>new placement of extruder
>controller board in top, along with control panel
FFFUUUUUUUU
They better release an upgrade kit for v2, at least for that new extruder placement...

>>1054277
>glass is garbage
I have had zero problems with a heated glass bed and a 10/1 mixture of water/white Elmer's (PVA) glue. Absolutely zero.

Hey guys,
I'm looking to get into 3D printing but I want to know about how much time would I need to dedicate to really get into this whole thing? Like time between assembling and configuring the printer, as well as time spent learning how to use the software. I don't really get a lot of free time because of work, maybe like 10-20 hours a week to myself.

>>1054854
Good for you. Its still more work than PEI. Still doesn't distribute heat as well as aluminum. Still highly varies in usefulness depending on the printer you have. Still can cost you build volume.

Sure an Ultimaker with a built in glass plate its fine. An additional layer added into with clips the belt can snag on or 3D printed half ass holders is another story entirely. People praise the hell out of it and its a average surface that can introduce a lot of problem to some printers when being aftermarket added.

Oh and if its boroscilicate it can also end up costing more.

>>1054866
Depends what you want to do. Building and tweaking a 3D printer? Or being able to design and print stuff you want.

1st one is a pretty endless process. If you just want to be able to design and print stuff though, I'd just get a good prebuilt machine like a Taz 6 or Ultimaker which should be more plug and play.

>>1054878
Did a piece of glass rape and murder your family anon?

>>1054854
>I have had zero problems with a heated glass bed and a 10/1 mixture of water/white Elmer's (PVA) glue. Absolutely zero.

noob here

what is your bed temp?
you use the glue/water mixture with ABS?

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Hey /3dpg/,

my ramps 1.4 board is unable to heat up my standard reprap 12v bed. It will reach up to 70 degrees, stop heating up, and then freeze the marlin program with THERMAL RUNAWAY.

Should i buy a new ramps board?
It's a little burnt near the D8 bed mosfet.

>>1055005
Yes it was awful. Nah its just it wasted a lot of my time and a little money for something that takes more work and works half as well.


>>1055503
I can promise it was over 100. Not enclosed you may need more. Glue/water is basically a cheaper way of using a glue stick, its the same chemical and gets super sticky when hot. Eventually it gets gunky as fuck and you have to scrape it all off though.

>>1054555
Check their website, they have most of the new pieces up for sale already, not sure about the floating bed, but it looks nice, I really hope they moved past arduino and to smoothieboard but I doubt it

>>1053251
If you own the copy of it, log in and you get all their profiles, if you don't torrent the 2.2 rather then the 3.0, yeah you will miss out on all the new stuff, but all the 3.0 torrents I found have viruses or rootkits in them + no way to get profiles unless you own a copy

give the new cura 2.3.0 a try, I'm loving it for non support prints compared to simplify

>>1054355
It's alright, the build instructions suck a dick, and some of the parts are fairly subpar be ready to print upgrades once it's put together, if you can swing it check out makerfarm, I love my pegasus only upgrade I've done is ditch the m5 threaded rods for acme lead screws or also check out the monoprice maker select and get some glass or a sheet of pei

>>1055959
The monoprice one looks better since it's the same cost when you factor in shipping and has the advantage of being already built. Is the frame metal?

>>1056026
yeah its thin metal but it works well, they have a z brace mod that makes it a little bit more stable, basically its to angle printed brackets and some threaded rod