Blacksmithing/bladesmithing/knife making

>>1033430
Why isn't the whole process automated yet?

>>1033440
It is, people don't bang out knives by hand to sell in stores.

And then there's industrial forging.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTU0Z-FkhtU

Should I use mystery steel for knives? Why not?

>>1033450
if the knife is for yourself or is simply ornamental then sure. as for making knives to be used by customers. best to use known steels so that you can get your heat treat spot on.

>>1033456
What about scrap metal that I know the heat treating properties/actual steel brand for? Can the steel be damaged in a way that can fuck shit up?

>>1033458
Even then i would honestly just spend the very tiny amount of money on a known steel if it was for a customer. even if you know what steel something is you don't know what stresses it already has etc

>>1033450
For me at least, I'm going to sink a lot of time into a knife.
Many hours into the bolster construction, profiling the blade, polishing, maybe some wirework and inlay, final finishing of the handle itself in lacquer etc. If the knifes a piece of shit that can't hold an edge, chips, breaks or so on- then that's a big loss.

Really comes down to how much you value your time.
Plus there's just some steels I like to use out of familiarity, 1095, 15N20 and O1 are something I know I can use.

>>1033450
>Should I use mystery steel for knives? Why not?

if you like playing the lottery, as to if you'll have a decent edge-holding blade at the end? sure.

If you're selling, and want to rapidly get a reputation as a joker who doesnt know what he's doing, absolutely.

if you think saving $5 at the start of something that might take you 20 hours, all for it to be a waste of time because you didnt know what metal you had at the start? Go ahead.

If you have an ounce of common sense, save the mystery metal for bolsters and pommel/end-caps, or similar jobs where you aren't going to waste your time using it, and get some steel you know the exact spec of

File: FB_IMG_1470424050538.jpg (60KB, 700x836px) Image search: [Google]

60KB, 700x836px

>>1033444
Thanks for the link asshole. Just burned like 8 gigs on my data cause i couldnt stop watchibg it twice.

>>1033440
you mean making knives or a knifemaking thread

>>1033697
at first read I thought you were actually mad at him and it was some trick link. you actually just really liked the content, r-right anon?

File: 13933384_10210076315333882_537573314_n.jpg (80KB, 584x960px) Image search: [Google]

80KB, 584x960px

>>1033430
Well, today I started a knife! Just took a flat bar, cut, filed, and ground it out of the bar. I couldn't find a suitable place to mount the grinder sooo...

File: 13900574_10210073238256957_1870838289_n.jpg (56KB, 584x960px) Image search: [Google]

56KB, 584x960px

>>1034165
I'd say it didn't come out too bad so far, this is my first knife so I don't expect loads of quality.

File: 13900537_10210075985245630_1044739004_n.jpg (49KB, 584x960px) Image search: [Google]

49KB, 584x960px

>>1034168

File: 13942254_10210076192770818_1918693672_n.jpg (77KB, 960x584px) Image search: [Google]

77KB, 960x584px

>>1034170
Just the lines and shit I'm grinding the edge to. Only got the rough grind done before I stopped for tonight.

>>1033697
It is only like 37megs. You'd have to watch it like 220+ times to use up 8gigs.

File: New-Arrival-100pcs-1-2-Sanding-Bands-Kit-2-Sanding-Drum-Mandrels-for-Dremel-Rotary-Tools.jpg_220x220.jpg (16KB, 220x220px) Image search: [Google]

16KB, 220x220px

>>1034168
oi, happy to see other crazy people like me :)

your design looks nice. The 3 grooves are a bit jagged . If you have some sort of rotary tool ,the sand drums on my pic are great for the job. Or a bit more patience with the round file

Good luck and i am waiting to see more progress soon

>>1034175
>>1034733
Well, I finished what I wanted to do today, I left it in a vice for tonight so the contact cement will set, then I'll sort out the pins I put in tomorrow morning. And thanks! I've used a rotary tool to smooth it out already. Today I jut sorted out the grip, cleaned up and heat treated the blade itself, and tomorrow is effectively just clean up and finishing.

File: 13942741_10210083865522632_799918574_n.jpg (70KB, 584x960px) Image search: [Google]

70KB, 584x960px

>>1034818
Forgot to add any fucking pictures.. I've put in the pins (4mm D Brass) and tomorrow I'm gonna peen over the edges and file them down when I shape the grip. Then possibly back onto the wheel to bring the grind back? I'd lose a bit of weight but could get a finer edge on it.

File: 13942358_10210084485298126_1808667400_n.jpg (68KB, 584x960px) Image search: [Google]

68KB, 584x960px

>>1034822
Straight after heat treating. I know that tempering colours ain't the best on a knife but I figured that it was far back enough it doesn't really matter. Hopefully. It's feeling VERY cleaver-like right now, which I like. But, on the same vein, how functional is it gonna be for every day use, being that chunky and all? I did start with 6mm thick steel anyway, and haven't really taken much off the sides..

>>1034826
It looks like you tempered it really soft. also, heat treating will only have an effect on higher carbon steels. if you made that with your standard mild steel from home depot or lowes or somewhere, it won't be able to hold a temper well, let alone at all. if you do know what steel that is, look up what heat treating methods are most effective for it. Some steels are way to brittle after quench, and some are just right after quench. Remember this though: Quenching hardens, Tempering softens

>>1033430
Any of you know wtf bedframe rails are made of? Tried cutting one today and one cross cut completely fucked my new hacksaw blade... And it was one of the good name brand blades too! Not trying to use it for smithing. But figured someone here might know.

>>1035018
it varies greatly, I know that didn't help much, but you didn't give us details on the bedframe, just the hacksaw blade

File: 1345659922747.png (70KB, 300x250px) Image search: [Google]

70KB, 300x250px

>>1034191

The joke.

>your head

>>1035018
Could be anything from mild steel to cast iron

>>1035018
I cut apart a bedframe for a project once. It was apparently hardened, probably medium carbon steel. Whatever it was ate cutting wheels like popcorn, but it is cuttable with standard wheels. I suggest using abrasive wheels or a carbide-toothed saw, since even good steel hacksaw blades won't cut hardened steel well.

>>1035041
You figured if i threw it into like a large enough fire it would soften? I don't have a miter saw. Or grinder.. And Im just using it for reinforcement in a wood project. I don't really have 80 bucks to drop on a grinder atm..

>>1035043
Yes, but for an intact frame, that's a pretty big fire (perhaps requiring more than $25 worth of wood, let alone time/effort). I'd try a blowtorch on the specific spots you want to cut/drill and get it glowing, then let it air cool. Or get a cheapo grinder and cutting wheels. My first grinder was the 4.5" Skil one you can get for $25 at Walmart. For cutting, more money on a grinder gets you productivity but not capability.

>>1035051
Doesnt matter. I work for construction. We cut down trees and stack them in piles. And burn them. The normal piles once coals are the size of a SUV. I could just bring the pieces with me. And when its done burning two days later. Ill use one of the buckets to scrape it out.

File: P6200003.jpg (544KB, 1600x1200px) Image search: [Google]

544KB, 1600x1200px

>>1034826
6mm! Its going to be fucking tough like a hatchet if nothing else!
With the low bevel like that its also not going to reach super-sharp levels either. With your thicker base metal- if you stretched it out about 3/4 to 7/8ths of the width of the blade it tends to leave plenty of meat on the spine for strength and drops the point of balance further back towards the handle.
I'm fond of about 3-4mm on most utility type knives, seems to be a good mix of durability and weight, which is important for fatigue if its a work knife.

>>1034826

with stock thickness of 6 mm , even a bevel that goes to the spine would be too wide angle for cutting. I know the grinding of the bevel is the hardest and most tedious part, especialy if you don't have a belt grinder. But you just have to do it to have a functional blade. One more tip - don't use a steel thicker than 4 mm

what type of steel are you using here?

I am a simple man who get's really confused with all this chemistry and physics stuff. Can someone give me a real simple 101 on normalizing?

>>1035147
You need to:
>A- identify the metal
>B- look up its properties

Steels are made to specifications, those specs tell you the hardening temperatures, how hot you need to work it, tempering times at certain degrees etc
They'll also tell you what temp you need to anneal and normalise it, also for how long

>>1035155
What if my local steel seller is a retard and doesn't mention anything about heat treating times, only about temperatures?

>>1035159
Then ask for the specific alloy he has and look it up yourself.

>>1035162
If he even knows. Typical welding and fab shops only know if it's cold rolled or hot, stainless or non stainless, galvanized or not. If you're lucky, they might know if it's high carbon or mild.

You might have to go over his head, get the name of his supplier and contact them directly.

>>1035147
heat the whole thing to about orange. Evenly throughout the whole thing and then leave it for a while to cool down slowly and evenly. i do it by putting it in the forge after i have turned it off

>>1035234
Isn't that annealing instead of normalizing?

File: 13987774_10210092012286296_616755638_o.jpg (147KB, 2048x1150px) Image search: [Google]

147KB, 2048x1150px

Well, I just finished it! My first (hand-made) knife.
I just got back and surprised people have even looked at it desu, so I'll do what I can to reply and answer shit.

>>1035011
I was really concerned that I would fuck it up and actually temper the blade, but from working it a bit after quenching, it believe it has hardened the steel. But I'm still learning it all..

>>1035110
Yeah, I've spent a bit of time sharpening it, it acts like a bloody cleaver with the weight. I guess I like that though. I'm looking to bring the bevel back to possibly 6/8"? I may go down to 4mm, but where I bought the steel only sold 6mm in the width I wanted. I do own a few knives but I guess I don't really have a heavy-cleaving type one, so it fills a gap.

>>1035119
Once I've got a bit more practice in, I'm looking to adjust the bevel and bring it back, I completely agree that it's too wide currently to properly cut, but I guess I can use it for batoning through wood/splitting. Like I said to the other guy, I guess I just wanted something different so I went with a thick blade. Maybe it's just because it's my first one so I went thick so any mistakes wouldn't be that bad.

File: 13978169_10210086246742161_1369597806_o.jpg (79KB, 2048x1150px) Image search: [Google]

79KB, 2048x1150px

>>1035291
Well, regardless. My mate and I came up with another design, one for him. I've still got plenty of the materials I used for mine so it'll be just as thick, wide, etc. But I guess I'm just trying to experiment and get used to the processes. We'll see how this turns out!

File: Untitled-1.jpg (27KB, 500x500px) Image search: [Google]

27KB, 500x500px

>>1035291
>. I'm looking to bring the bevel back to possibly 6/8"?

What you could so is have a thicker core, its a style not often used much anymore by most bladesmiths for single edged knives specifically as its a lot more work, but I think zee Germans used to make some like it back around the early 20th century.
Its a high ground bevel around 3/4ers-2/3rds of way up the width, then tapers down with a secondary bevel across the top (blunt obviously) to cut out the extra weight- but leaves you with a spine lower in the blade making it very strong.

Don't worry about mistakes, everyone makes them! :)

>>1035301
That looks like the kind of profile I may go for, looks interesting. But, as you said, more work with the wheel and files.. I may try it with another knife but I'd probably make that secondary bevel a bit more steep, leaving a wider top surface and to keep a little more weight. That design in general seems quite good though. Have you made and knives or blades of your own?

>>1035315
I generally make kitchen knives and the occasional bush/skinning knife as a hobby- usually out of 1095, O1 or more rarely with 15N20-1095 pattern welded (eg- >>1035110 pic) when I can bludge a lend of someones workshop. Sort of thinking of making a very limited run of chefs utility and paring knives if I can find the right steel for the right price as I've got a design floating around in my head for both types. Not that there's really any money in making knives, think I know 1 guy who actually pays his rent with sales but that's about it, I just like a challenge of making something which you can't buy in a store and can lavish attention to detail into it.

That's sort of where the artisan in me kind of gets let out of my otherwise staid existence!

>>1033444
That video made me moist.

What's the practical difference of martensite and banite for a knife maker?

File: IMG_2703.jpg (1MB, 3648x2736px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3648x2736px

I finished this today

It's an old blade i made 1-2 years ago when i had no belt grinder. Its D6 steel to 60 hrc. Its big and heavy , but when i bought the piece of steel i wanted to cut as little as possible (pretty stupid when i think about it now) The handle is just walnut. Its only finished to 150 grit because its for me and im lazy bastard

>>1035332
Fair enough, sounds pretty cool! You've clearly got better skills than me anyway, plus experience. I guess demand for knives is mostly reliant on where you're from. But if someone were to make a living from it, it'd be from expanding the skills you've learned from knife making into other areas of metal working and then working in general fabrication. I can agree completely agree with what you said about the challenge. Obviously I can't say much about the attention to detail as what I've made is fairly crude, but it appeals to my tastes. That's something I like about making your own stuff, it appeals to your own personal wants and tastes!

>>1035368
Nice, looks pretty decent! I guess that's a new pic of it. What did you use to texture the grip?

File: download.jpg (5KB, 259x194px) Image search: [Google]

5KB, 259x194px

>>1035379
i used home made checkering tool

>>1035393
Oh, well fair enough mate.

File: Untitled-2.jpg (21KB, 500x500px) Image search: [Google]

21KB, 500x500px

>>1035315
Another design which has a thick spine dates back to the middle ages and is now very uncommon is the "T" profile that was used in Rondel daggers. It also allows for extremely pointy tips designed to punch through heavy armours and quite a sharp edge for day to day cutting, with that thick spine along the top giving it tremendous strength.

>>1035376
Its one of those hobbies where you end up part-
>materials engineer
>blacksmith
>welder
>jeweller
>engraver
>knife sharpener
>designer
>carpenter

I always find it frustrating to see some fat baby boomer on youtube flogging off their 'custom' knives, which often have decent-ish blades, but a fucking rubbish, undecorated handle with no ergonomics, very little innovation in overall design and they're doing you a favour by 'only' charging $3-400US for it. Which for a 4-5" blade is kind of criminal really. It may cover their costs so to speak, but for that kind of money its not exactly very special, there's definitely a place for simplicity but it should command simple money as well- otherwise the customer may as well buy something off the shelf from the big companies which will do just fine.

Customers should be delighted with their hand made product, anything less of just being happy or 'its ok' isn't enough to cut the proverbial mustard. You can always make a dollar tomorrow, but a name you only get once.
>end rant on customer service!

File: 031760902.jpg (92KB, 640x425px) Image search: [Google]

92KB, 640x425px

>>1035698

All you said is true, but the dude just starts. And for now he plans only to make knives for him and his friend while having fun. If things get serious he sure has to take your advices in mind.

btw can you please show some more of your knives, the damascus one looks pretty cool

File: P5240004.jpg (539KB, 1600x1200px) Image search: [Google]

539KB, 1600x1200px

>>1035766
Wasn't being critical, he's got some really good designs and any tips on stuff I'm only too happy to help out with a bit of advice.
(I'd just finished watching a particularly shit series of vids on youtube where the craftsmen are really preachy and selfish- might take a break from watching them)

Here's a skinner I did up a month or so ago which is a pretty meaty bit of metal, did a bit of experimenting with the handle design and sub-hilt, which I'm 'sort of' happy with but later developed into the recent one I posted.

Is that elegant looking tanto your work?

>>1034165
I am not that regular of a /diy/nosaur, is this some kind of diy inside joke or are you the same guy from the diy rekt thread yesterday?

File: 13933372_10210102226541646_1800800563_n.jpg (36KB, 584x960px) Image search: [Google]

36KB, 584x960px

First off, Sorry about only replying/updating/discussing or whatever in the evenings, been trying to use most of my time to make the knives. But today I did get a reasonably large scrap piece of Marlborough leather to make a couple sheaths from!

>>1035801
Nah, not a meme or joke or anything, just my stupidity and hopefulness..

>>1035698
>>1035766
>>1035773

I'm completely cool with any suggestions, advice and criticisms, no worries about that. If there's any tips you guys could give me, it'd be well appreciated!
I'm moving house soon (Currently in Wiltshire, England, going to Wales in the next few months) and I'm looking to build up a workshop with a forge and bench to get into blacksmithing, carpentry, leatherworking, etc. and was wondering if either of you have experience with that stuff either?

Also, this is the blank for the next knife I'm making for my mate, this time with a much deeper bevel.

>>1035773

where can I buy your knives, senpai?

File: 1470775477669.jpg (91KB, 266x709px) Image search: [Google]

91KB, 266x709px

>>1036013

Ok then , a few tips from me
1. When you start a knife think about what it would be used for and design It with that in mind (blade thickness , angle , weight , shape , grind etc. )
2. Don’t wait someone to tell you how to do things – find it yourself , read , ask, experiment.
3. Just keep making knives and don’t give up. You will get good.
4. At first it’s hard because you don’t have all the tools.
5. If you have the possibility – try forging. Forging is fun and there is a magic in the fire .
6. Show us when you do something, its interesting for me and I guess for the others

Also what do you think about this change on your design

File: 14010066_10210111844182081_335145136_n.jpg (43KB, 584x960px) Image search: [Google]

43KB, 584x960px

>>1036506
I need to really do more planning when I design then. Honestly, I never actually think of a purpose when I design them. It's mostly just "What looks cool" or "What seems to be fairly simple but functional.

Really, I have most the tools I need right now. But I'd fucking kill for a belt grinder right now, that'd really help. Like I said before though, I really do want to get into forging and smithing, just something about manipulating glowing hot steel and iron seems great to me.

I like your modification to the design, and it seems like something I'd try in the future. But for now, I kinda try to keep hold of the sides so that there isn't too much filing. That's one of the reasons that I want to get a belt grinder, to make it somewhat easier to create more complex shapes with subtle curves, straight and even edges, etc without a load of finicky filing, checking, filing, checking...

Also, I finished that knife for my mate tonight, he didn't want the wood stained which saved me a fair bit of time. (Pic related)

File: 68ab3a43-d8e2-4965-a369-4faa8b26631f.jpg (58KB, 720x416px) Image search: [Google]

58KB, 720x416px

I made this small one for my dad. It's made out of one hell of a hard saw blade.

File: photo_1465835413359.jpg (815KB, 2592x1944px) Image search: [Google]

815KB, 2592x1944px

Heres another one I made but it is still WIP. The grinding on this was actually done by hand with an angle grinder.. it's also the most symmetrical grind I have done

>>1036013
When it comes to gear, familiarity and competency are the main things to consider. If you're a master of the files (or angle grinder like this fella!- >>1036709) then you might be taking a step backwards with certain types of tools, the big advantage is that power tools reduce time spent. But as amateurs and hobbyists there's no boss to be breathing down your throat, so take your time when working and make sure its done properly instead of done fast.

Big advantage of the hammer, anvil and files is the tactile sense of where you are in relation to the material, you can see it all the time, feel where its shape is and head off any potential disasters like over-removing stock or getting an angle wrong. Whereas spinning grinding things can be distracting as you've got safety, belt speeds, noise and so on to also take into account.

Time comes to move onto a new tool, like a linisher for example- don't expect it to produce results just because of its inherent qualities, it'll produce results when you're competent with it- that just takes time and practice.

Design like >>1036506 mentions is integral to function. I'd probably also add that materials are also integral to function because some lend themselves to some things better than others.

>>1036528
>belt grinder
Just a regular old cheep belt sander works too.
lock it on
tern it upside down
tighten the handle in a vice.
THEN plug it in.
It's a little sketchie but I do it all the time.

I also hooked a dimmer switch into the extension cord I use with it so i can slow the rpm down to almost nothing if i want. Throw in some 600grit belts and it also makes a nice first stage sharpener too.

File: 14017567_10210117803131051_1747463995_n.jpg (59KB, 960x584px) Image search: [Google]

59KB, 960x584px

>>1036743
Y'know that does make a lot of sense. If it isn't already clear, I don't exactly think things through all that much. After finishing my second knife though, I think I may just stick with files, the edge came out far better that with the grind wheel!

>>1036756
If I get to the point I really need it, that may just work out. I'm not stranger to bodged together equipment, surprised I hadn't thought of just doing that! Might try it out at some point.

Also, today I just made a quick sheath for my mate's knife from some scrap leather, pop rivets and small washers. Nothing special or fancy, but it works.

File: ny_timmerhake_popup.gif (309KB, 900x540px) Image search: [Google]

309KB, 900x540px

Complete beginner here, i have no tools or experience. I want to make a log dog. (pic)

About 40cm long and the points are 10 cm long.

What is a good and cheap material for this?

>>1036845
Rebar?

>>1036845
Plus one on the rebar. They make some smooth rebar used in putting up fencing. Idk what it is. But it can be hardened only shit part is its got some zinc in it.

File: IMG_2717.jpg (529KB, 1200x900px) Image search: [Google]

529KB, 1200x900px

>>1036756
Sure you don't need 2x72 belt grinder , but having one makes things much easier and much better. Also cheaper on abrasives and you have wider choice of belts. Also making your own grinder is not hard or expensive.

>>1036821
with files you can make pretty good knives , you just need filing jig - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9iNDRwwBQQ .

Good job on the knife and the sheath. They are a bit rough , but that is just the beginning.

and here what i finished today. The bevels are made with a filing jig btw

>>1036860
>>1036851
How would i heat it up easily then?
How do i harden it?

Im very new to this

>>1036862
You could bend the rebar into shape. Clamp each end into a vice and, using a metal pipe to increase your leverage, bend it to your desired shape. I can't advise on how to heat treat it, however,

File: DSC_0588.jpg (3MB, 3840x2160px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3840x2160px

>>1033430
hi /diy/
today i heat treated my first knife
4mm bowie 01 tool steel etc
but my knife just crooked hard ( 15 ° ) and i tryed to fix i fucked up

do you have any advise about that ?

>>1036866
Cant you just heat it up and cool it quickly, its not vital it has any specific strength, just harder than plain rebar i guess.

>>1036891
Again, I can't advise on how to properly heat treat the rebar.

>>1036893
mkey, thanks anyway

>>1035291
work hardening is a thing, so at least you got that right. it does seem thick enough that a harder bevel and edge would fit nicely though. It looks really good!

>>1036891
Rebar isn't made of a higher carbon steel, so it wouldn't be able to harden much, if at all. Heating it to quenching temperature is ill advised as well due to the zinc content. Metal fume fever is a bitch

>>1036899
i see, any other source of cheap metal that is suitable then?

File: tehnika_bezopasnosti_07.jpg (167KB, 526x700px) Image search: [Google]

167KB, 526x700px

>>1036890
You'll need to heat it up until its yellow hot, then you can try beating on it (not fuck you owe me money hard- be gentle!) with something like a wooden mallet or baseball bat until it's straight.
When it cools off it'll need to go straight back into the forge again to get up to temp, otherwise you'll get stress fractures.

You'll get an o1 boomerang for a couple of reasons-
>unequal heating, o1 likes a nice long soak so give it about 5min at cherry red
>oil dip, nearly always someone puts the blade in askew and the other is that they wave it side by side: big no no!

When you dip get some temperature into the oil with a hot iron, from the forge go straight in and hold it there, you can then wave it back and forth. O1 also likes to stay in there until its warm enough to handle by hand.

With your temper, make sure you do it twice! People often forget that.
Temper once for 2hr, take it out and let it cool to room temp, then a 2nd temper for 2hr

>>1036903
You could probably pick up a bar of 1050 medium carbon steel, its cheap, not real great but it will harden and temper

>>1036911
is that an international standard or just in the US?

Im EU

>>1036918
Thats the AISI, theres a few of it by ASTM

http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=6526

>>1035291
this handle look like shit
is that fir wood ?

>>1036861
Beaut looking little tanto, what's the timber?

Does anyone have tips for making your own ballisong? I'm shipping out in two months and I want to take one with me for shits and gigs.

>>1036821
I just know you will be as amazed as i was once you see how nice and even of a finish you can get from even a cheepo belt sander.

for how long should I anneal and normaliza 1060? I can't seem to find anything anywhere.

>>1037168

alder burl, first time using it but i don't like it. Too soft , light and it keeps absorbing the oil. Only good side - it looks nice.

>>1037262
It does look good, I found with some of the lighter burls you seem to spend more time putting it back together with superglue than sanding it. I've got some eucalypt burl slices which I use for inlay sometimes and if they're well stabilised seem to hold together pretty well.
Some of the fiddleback and curly timbers suit some pattern welded blades too and can be a little easier to live with.

File: 14017899_10210127876062868_1157545601_n.jpg (40KB, 960x584px) Image search: [Google]

40KB, 960x584px

>>1036930
Nah, just plain ol' pine. I wouldn't say shit myself (although I'm obviously biased towards it,) but definitely rough looking. Actually feels really good in the hand! But I guess it's suited to my "crude" tastes.

>>1037251
I don't doubt it! Personally, I'm fine with the work marks on it from the files. But I know others may want a more "professional" looking piece. So maybe a belt sander with a couple very fine grit belts just for finishing? But, that can happen later really, right now I'm literally just making for myself and a couple mates for minimal profit, just about covering material costs. Speaking of which, I made one more sheath and added a belt loop to that and the fist one I made so I have one for both knives I've completed so far. But, after that I began to work on a new one to keep occupied. As far as I got today..

File: image.jpg (3MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3264x2448px

Im lookin ti make a backlock knife, but i dont know what kind of pivot joint to use, or just to say fuck it and use a brass pin. Looking to do a steel ir brass liner and mexican ebony on the handle scales
(Pic related, last knife made)

>>1036903
car leaf springs will normally have a higher carbon content. springs in general. any metal that is designed to be load bearing is lower carbon steel, and any metal that is designed to cut is higher carbon generally

File: 20160812_213716.jpg (4MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 5312x2988px

here is the one i'm currently working on, still got some touching up to do, and finish my finger groove.
I do everything by hand, hammers and files ( with the exception of a cordless drill i used for the brass)

>>1036026
All gone now, 2 where for my nephew who's a chef and the skinner I've kept for chopping up animals myself.
The pattern weld is just too expensive really to sell, talking about 2 old blokes with a sledge, fire, flux and anvil beating on the shit like it owes us money in 35C summers... you can't really pay us to do it very often! :)

Sort of thinking of doing a set of O1 paring and chef knives at some point that might get sold if I'm happy with the design after its tested, but I'm not really here to sell anything, just sharing a bit of info

File: DSC_0372.jpg (386KB, 858x570px) Image search: [Google]

386KB, 858x570px

finished this one just yesterday. Large camp knife. 5160 blade steel/hickory handle scales.

>>1037558
Cool, i could probably find one of those

>>1036899
why the fuck do you think rebar would be galvanized

>>1037788
The stuff used in fencing IS zinc plated pham.

>>1037767
I like how the belly is swept.

>>1037767

Cool. Looks like something that will do the job. The handle has a nice finish.

This is what I made today. 5mm silver steel, 80mm blade 80 handle. I wanted something that i can carry all the time with me, and when someone asks me for a knife, i wont be worried if the guy is a retard and will break it.

File: IMG_20160813_200646.jpg (695KB, 1200x900px) Image search: [Google]

695KB, 1200x900px

>>1037888

File: 14009983_10210118185060599_2085126992_n.jpg (77KB, 960x584px) Image search: [Google]

77KB, 960x584px

>>1036897
Oh shit! Sorry I missed out on your reply, Thanks! I've gone back and somewhat redone the bevel, brought it back and neatened it up a bit I guess. Cuts better now at least, used it today to add a little stitching to its sheath, cuts fine thread well enough so I don't mind the edge now. I personally don't know much about work hardening, I dunno how much it affects what I've done, but anything you may know about that'd be really helpful!

File: 14012203_10210136309273693_1982046683_n.jpg (44KB, 960x584px) Image search: [Google]

44KB, 960x584px

>>1037982
Plus, another WIP.

>>1035393

That's an elegant solution. Did it do each side in a single pass?

Out of curiosity how did you make it sufficiently precise?

Looks too neat to be an angle grinder jobby.

File: 035126869.jpg (143KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

143KB, 640x480px

>>1038409

I made it out of unhardened steel with needle files , then the teeth with a jewelry saw and then hardened it in oil. 4 types of heads -
double with 1 smooth and 1 serated side - for indicating the space
single 60 degree angle - for initial guide lines
single 90 degree angle - for deepening the channels and making the points of the diamonds

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QV5mi603uYU

my handmade versions are with much less aggressive cut and things go much harder, but in my country to purchase the basic tools you must spend 100+ dolars

>>1035023
Implying I've got a head

>>1036506
>>1036506
>magic in the fire
I can attest to this. Been forging for about 6 years now and every time you just get this special indescribable feeling. And then the moment is ruined when a piece of scale flies off and sticks to your leg.

>>1036860
Do not forge/heat anything with zinc ever. It can ignite and burn releasing toxic zinc oxide vapor. That stuff has killed people. Just don't use galvanized anything.

I've wanted to get into knife making for a long time. I know about hammer, metals, anvils, etc. But could someone reccomend a good forge?

File: FZD6L5SHM8DFHBD.MEDIUM[1].jpg (51KB, 620x412px) Image search: [Google]

51KB, 620x412px

Has anyone used these? I've heard of people using them as a heat source for melting aluminum and there is video of people melting rock. I've been trying to get my hands on one here in Denver but everyone threw out there projector style big screens 10 years ago.

>>1038747

Fresnel lens works, but you must build an heliostator, and the lens must be big; with enough sun, you can heat, and even melt, steel. However, you must find FOCAL screen, not LINEAR screen; only focal lens works. If you don't find huge fresnel lens, you can use small lenses and mirrors, build in a circular way, the focal would be in the center of the ideal circle.

Dont want to spend hundreds on an anvil for a hobby I might not enjoy, all scrapyards around here REFUSE to sell any scrap. What are my options?

>>1038701

Been to a meetup of professional blacksmiths in Germany. Try http://www.angele.de
Their site is available in English.

See:
http://www.angele-shop.com/shop/en/world-of-forging/gas-forges/?p=1

Though they are *really* expensive. But the blacksmiths seemed quite happy with using these things.

>>1038687

or piece of molten borax in your leather glove , or in your boot , or in your hair :D

>>1038796
ask around your friends and aquintences, preferably those living in countryside or who own a shop
they might have a big lump of steel laying around or even a real anvil they don't have a use for
or just use a big sledgehammer as your anvil. It's not very good, but it's better than nothing

>>1038796
See if you can get a length of railroad track.

Do not go out and grab some off of a train.

Most yards won't accept railroad scrap so you might be able to find a guy that has some that willing to part with it.

>>1038796

My first anvil consisted of a vice and a flat hammer.
A cast flat hammer works rather well for this purpose, and I'd imagine a piece of forged hammer would hold up even better.
At hardware stores sometimes you can buy single hammer heads. Just get one of those and strap it to a block of wood.
Will probably be loud though.

>>1038796
Sometimes you can get big, thick flatbar sections about 5-10cm thick which are pretty good if you chop them up with an oxy and shape with an angle grinder, I've also seen some very large i-beams which would do the job as well.
Most often with those (or railway track) you bolt them down to something like a log to stop them wandering around.

File: 1361842934290.jpg (109KB, 800x600px) Image search: [Google]

109KB, 800x600px

>>1038949
>See if you can get a length of railroad track.

>Do not go out and grab some off of a train.


What I did was write to my local rail company, lied like a bastard, and said I was doing some lessons for a local university group. (sort of true, I was doing lectures for the local university... but not on blacksmithing), where we needed a little anvil block, and asked if they had any small sections that would be scrapped.

next thing I know, I had a van from the rail company turn up at my door, with a foot-long section that they sold for £5, solely so that they, and I both had a receipt of purchase, and that way there was proof it wasnt a section stolen from a rail-side.

its no substitute for a real anvil of course, but it does the job nicely on small things like knife-making, with a light hammer. (I used it for a few years till I got a decent anvil)

how difficult is it to make a small knife with no power tools? with store bought 1085

>>1039210
Not very, provided that you don't mind punishing your wrists. Rough it out with a saw, finish it up with successive grades of files and nigger-rig a handle from leather and/or paracord. If you want, you can also use a hand torch or DIY forge for hardening.

>>1039210
1085 is one the best beginner steels along with 1075, very easy to heat treat and makes a pretty tough knife

Is it possible to do a proper annealing and normalization with a simple forge and no heat control/measurement tools?

>>1039316
Depends on the steel.
With annealing its actually easier with a coal/charcoal forge as you just get the metal to its temp (800-900C usually) and leave it too cool down very slowly to around 600C over a long time.
Normalising is something you can do with a gas forge as generally (but not always- check your material properties)- heat it up to around 8-900C and then air cool it naturally to room temp.

You do need to know your material, all its properties are outlined in the engineering details of it.

>>1039320
I've seen a lot of people talking about annealing stuff by heating them to the proper temperature and then jamming the steel into a bucket of sand or something similiar. I'm feeling very sceptic about this method, is it legit?

>>1039321
Never heard that one, you can get pretty budget with a bbq, brickettes and some kind of blower- then you just get to the critical temp and come back in a few hours time.
Off top of my head I'm familiar with most carbon blade steels and some tool steels, some stainless is very tricky to anneal though from memory and you're looking at kilns to do it precisely

>>1039320
>>1039321
>>1039323
Why is a slow cooling required for annealing, senpai?

File: row9-image-2.jpg (71KB, 550x350px) Image search: [Google]

71KB, 550x350px

>>1039328
Trying to think about how to put this simply.

Think of a garden lattice trellis like the one in the pic, you can collapse it side to side which will change the shape of the structure, that structure would technically be stronger mechanically after you've manhandled it to look like a bundle of sticks. Which is essentially what we do when beating the fuck out of steel. We modify the metal both physically and at a structural level, but once its at that bundle of sticks level, you can't easily bend, twist or do much with it.

Now to return that lattice to its open structure, you need to apply heat, so the atoms in the metal redistribute themselves- then over time the lattice structure in the metal can grow, essentially the same as crystals do (if you've ever done a science experiment with hot salt water, bit of string dangling in it) which still require heat to grow until they've reached their normal lattice state. In some steels you also need pressure, (the same as certain types crystals) and other physical effects.

I think that sort of makes sense

>>1039330
So essentially the steel is slowly cooled to give it time to regrow all the crystals and stuff?

File: metal color temp chart.png (25KB, 744x613px) Image search: [Google]

25KB, 744x613px

>>1039337
Pretty much and thats the simplest sort of way I could describe it.

Also don't forget that colour is also an indication of temperature as well

>>1039340
that's some woeful rounding of kelvin temps in that chart

>>1039346
2-3deg rounding off on a fairly 'eyeball it' kind of chart isn't going to wreck anything.

>>1039348
Yeah, but that rounding is inconsistent as hell.
For every 1*C, the temperature in Kelvin should also increase by one.
but here you have the change +/- 5K.

>>1039350
Easier to remember and that 5K does not really matter either.
Find another chart or make your own if it really bothers you.

Would putting a hot steel into a bucket of sand work for annealing? Would the sand leave a glassy surface on the piece?

>>1039929
See- >>1039323

Generally your temp decrease over time on most carbon steels is maximum of -50C per hour from 8-900C to around 600C and sand isn't that good an insulator to do that
But- see your steels engineering specs, it tells you everything

Where do I get started if I'm totally new? Any books I should look at?

>>1040016
I've found youtube to be extremely helpful

>>1039203
how did you do that anvil ?
i have som pieces of rails laying around
always needed an smal anvil

File: 20160818_001223.jpg (3MB, 3984x2988px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3984x2988px

I don't make the blade but I like kit builds and making custom scales. It's challenging enough. Making 6 as groomsmen gifts next month.

>>1033458
>actual steel brand

By your use of the wrong terminology I'm guessing you don't understand steel designation labeling and you want us to tell you scrap steel is fine to use.

Garbage in = garbage out. Do what you want.

Known good carbon steel is cheap as fuck. Don't be such a jew.

>>1033458
>Can the steel be damaged in a way that can fuck shit up

Microfractures. And they aren't reliably repaired by forging.

>>1035018
>wtf bedframe rails are made of?

Shit tier recycled metal that is not well homogenized and can contain a wide variety of elements and inclusions.

Just about the worst choice in steel for a knife.

>>1035234
This is the nigger/shit/3rd world way of doing it. Seriously, this is literally exactly how they make garbage blades in india and then go poop on the beach because they don't have indoor plumbing.

>>1035291
Jesus, that looks like shit.

>>1035301
>>1035698

Obsolete, compared to modern grinds. Unless you plan on stabbing through armor.

>>1036528
Fuck me, that's an ugly one.

>>1036821
And you found a way to make the sheath ugly as fuck too! At least you're consistent.

>>1036890
Heat it to red/orange, straighten it. Let it air cool.

Heat it again, let it air cool. Repeat 1-2 more times.

Try to harden again or send it off for heat treat.

>>1038701
Build your own. Or try ferrier supply. They're usually easier to find than blacksmith suppliers.

>>1039321
Not sand, Vermiculite. At least 50 litres of it.

>>1040016
Wayne Goddard's $50 knife shop is considered a generally good starting place.

>>1040306
You're like the construction company middle manager who never picks up an actual tool but says he's "built" hundreds of houses.

>>1040306
nerd

>>1040622
>Microfractures. And they aren't reliably repaired by forging.
I see a lot of people throwing that word around, with usually very little explanation of what it actually means. Now, I don't doubt that they exist, but I would very much like to educate myself more on the topic. Can you recomend any good articles or some shit about how they are formed, what they actually do, etc.?

>>1033430
I'm looking for a cringey hobby with minimal practicality and almost no monetary return.

Will blacksmithing work?

>>1040907
yes

>>1040907

this is /diy/ not /fag/. You're in the wrong forum.

>>1040907

give bookbinding a try XD

>>1040902

I have a piece that I tried forging, was once a bit of shitty railroad track (more or less pieces that where cut off and left over when doing my shitty railroad anvil). Stuff is garbage tier material that kept on ripping open when I tried to forge it / draw it out. I can post pics tomorrow maybe so you can see the rips.
I would assume that is caused by said "micro" - or in this case rather "macro" fractures.
Not a steel you want to work with. Trust me.

>>1034175
Watching this one "pro" grind the edges on YouTube was fucking nerve-wracking because he didn't use gloves, and I just read in Goddard's "The $50 Knife Shop" book that the grinder is "The Most Dangerous Machine in the Workshop".

Hey guys,

I've been trying to make damascus for a while. I'm using a gas forge that gets pretty fucking hot (easily melts brass and gets steel looking "sweaty").

I can't figure out how to get the forge hotter, and how to keep the steel together (I don't have any welding equiptment). Also, should I be using flux?

Thanks.

File: image.jpg (1MB, 2447x2447px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 2447x2447px

Knife design i'm working on.

>>1041711
what sort of gas, what sort of burner?

keep it together by binding the layers with thin(ish) steel wire on either end of the billet.I would be inclined to make one layer longer than the rest, with an extension to hold onto with tongs.

Yes, you should be using flux at least till you're 100% comfortable with doing good forgewelds.

File: image.jpg (2MB, 3018x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3018x2448px

Working on a puukko. I can't get the steel to peen over properly, any ideas?

File: image.jpg (20KB, 300x292px) Image search: [Google]

20KB, 300x292px

>>1041722
I'm using propane, out of a single burner. Forge is pic related.

Good idea. I'm kind of tempted to rivet some pieces together.

>>1041708

Most pro's will agree that the buffer is the most dangerous tool in the shop. Hell, I know of a full time bladesmith that won't have one in his shop for that reason!

>>1041711
Maybe try something a little bit simpler like San Mai first to get your forge welding down pat and save up for a 2nd hand stick welder.
Check out the odd auction or 2nd hand market as people often throw out perfectly good, (but old) welders that work fine- but someone just decided they needed a MIG or something.
When I used to make pattern weld, you need to weld at least both ends of the sections together and I used to like welding a bit of rebar on the end so you're not fucking around with tongs all the time when doing the forge, flattening, folding and draw-out.

Yes- most definitely use flux, I'd also recommend you get some brick sections around the ends of the forge to keep as much oxygen out of the forges atmosphere, keep a bit more heat in and soak the shit out of it. Hammer work is go soft at start to get the sections all nice and melted together, reheat, re-flux and then go at it with the big hammer. A friend and I used to take turns on a 10lb sledge, its pretty fucking hard work with no power hammer :)

File: tehnika_bezopasnosti_09.jpg (196KB, 525x700px) Image search: [Google]

196KB, 525x700px

>>1041737
Couple of people a year at least die to buffers, mostly because half a horsepower is plenty more than enough power to throw a mostly finished knife, chisel or sharpish bit of metal rod nearly clean through someone.

File: SUtrrWR[1].gif (4MB, 270x210px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 270x210px

Saws like to take the fingers off of idiots. A lathe or grinder will just straight up mangle you. We're talking closed casket. This moron got off easy.

File: FRCQYGBHYWT5QCR.MEDIUM.jpg (22KB, 620x359px) Image search: [Google]

22KB, 620x359px

>>1041711

You can use wire like on the pic. Use flux. And if you want to check if the metal is hot enough , you can get long metal stick with pointy end and scratch the billet with it. If it sticks - you are ready to go. Also when you heat the billet , if its thick , you must wait a bit to soak on welding temperature, but be careful not to make it sparkle.

If you get welder , your life would be much easier :)

Good luck with the welds

>>1041721

looks nice, what are you using to grind it

>>1041708

what is the point of using gloves while grinding? They only get in the way and make you less precise.

>>1041708
half of the time if you are operating a dangerous machine the gloves are what will get stuck and fuck your shit up. Never ever use gloves while drilling, milling and latheing.

File: fawfgaga.png (165KB, 802x406px) Image search: [Google]

165KB, 802x406px

>>1033430
I bought jawa babetta 207 recently in terrible condition... and i've got the motor fixed but i'm left with troublesome annoyance. The rear tire has 2 cogs on each side. One connected to the pedals and the other one to the engine. The pedal cog is spinning freely for some reason and the schematics show that its supposed to? So what the actual fuck is gonna transfer the pedaling side chain movement to the engine?

>>1041908
wrong thread?

>>1041910
oops...
answers are welcome

>>1041894
when grinding for some steels (EN42J, which is very "sparky" ) I sometimes use nitrile gloves, simply as a barrier to stop sparks hitting my hands. those are thin enough that if they snag, it'll tear right off, instead of dragging a hand in.

>>1041929
smart

>>1041929

Aren't nitril gloves meltable? I don't know much about them except that I hated them in the chem lab I worked once because they had the tendency to rip. What brand are you using?

>>1041958
I probably wouldnt like to have my hands underneath the grinder rest, with nitrile on.

but for the big sparks that manage to flick all the way round on my 1830mm belts, just a simple layer is enough to prevent the stings.

Thinking about buying a belt grinder
what do you think ? I wanted to buy a craftman 2x42 2/3hps but it don't deliver in europ
Titangrinder seems cheap and good quality

>>1042236
They can be built at home relatively cheaply, there was a fella in one of the 'things we built' threads that made one and its a pretty decent looking machine.
1-2hp motor, rollers, frame out of steel square section or timber, need some bearing plastic/poly rollers and some backing plate for the belt. Most of the better ones use a 72" strap which is around 2" wide, that tends to have the longest wear cycle in between changes and also doesn't affect the velocity of the belt when you mush a bit of steel or timber into it.
You can get away with smaller diameter belts, but they tend to wear much quicker.

>>1042236

Can even be built from wood.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptXZRrb8gjw

>>1042236

If you are planing to make knives and sell them regularly , your best choice is 2x72 or its european equivalent 2000x50 . To get one - find someone in your country that makes them , or make one by yourself. You only need good motor, pallet cart rollers , square steel profiles and someone to weld it. I used this as a guide http://dcknives.blogspot.bg/p/2-x-72-belt-grinder.html .

File: image.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

My first attempt at hammering stuff. Thought I'd try to make a letter opener. More to do, and it's pretty fucked up, but I'm proud of myself. Dat scale tho.

>>1042508

Was that once a railroad spike?


Next step would be to sandblast / grind all the oxide off. Then grind into shape. Then polish.
Looks nice though.

>>1042428
not him but i thought about something like that for myself, but i would probably just use a power drill as the engine with some kind of fixation where you can easily remove it

>>1042539

They are apparently very easy to build. If I weren't moving soon, I'd start building one right now.

>>1042539

Using angle grinder or hand drill or small belt sander motor is not a good idea. They are not made to work long time without a break and it will die pretty soon.

>>1042539
> but i would probably just use a power drill as the engine

your power drill probably puts out about 500, maybe 740w of power at most.
aside from the fact its not designed to run for more than short bursts, on a 2x72 belt, you want at least 2hp, ideally, 2.5hp. I run a 2hp motor and that can stall out when doing heavy work. A power drill would be so anaemic that you would get nothing done at all - even IF you manage to get it running as a decent RPM rate.

>>1042508
That's actually really fuckin good for first time.

>>1042525
Same here. Sandblast and polish.

>>1042629
Ty anon, that makes me feel gud. I thought it was shit and wasn't even gonna post lol.

>>1042525
Yessir, snagged a bunch from old tracks nearby. I plan to heat it up again and fix some curves and then shape it a little on the grinder, then see how much I can harden it.

>>1042774

Thought so. Be sure to post a picture of when it's finished.

File: 20160823_010148.jpg (3MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 5312x2988px

I found this knife in my basement, it's from my granpa. What kind of knife it is? Also, how can i restore it? It has some rust on the blade and scratches everywhere

File: ^1B3FD009BD60C11C6B8C8483F555C83FF26DD5ACD62A923725^pimgpsh_thumbnail_win_distr.jpg (7KB, 230x164px) Image search: [Google]

7KB, 230x164px

my first knife, im going to heat treat and temper it tomorow, but i have q, when i heat treat it , i need to put it in furnace twice and then in oil or only once in furnace? Its made out of iron.

>>1043015
german by any chance?

anyone know where to get an anvil? or what a good anvil substitute is

>>1033430
Local place offers a $65 3 hour class, "A taste of blacksmithing." By the end we're supposed to have been introduced to the "basic smithing techniques of hammering, drawing-out, cutting, bending, and twisting." Then we're supposed to make an S hook that same day.

Does this sound about right for an intro class?

>>1042508
First time? Holy shit! My first knife looked like a slightly melted thing that melts! good job mate

>>1042774
depending on where you are from, railroad spikes don't like to harden too much. It is basically mild steel with a lower carbon content

>>1043364
if it is only iron, then heat treat won't do a damned thing, the heat treatment messes with the crystal structure of the carbon and iron alloy to produce the desirable mechanical properties, without the carbon content iron cannot be effectively heat treated.

>>1042843
Pic related. Suggestions on how to clean up the twist? Thinking about borrowing a buddy's grinding wheel with some kind of wire brush attachment, if that's a thing. Sounds like a thing.

>>1043550
Haha thanks anon. I've made a few knives via stock removal and I practiced a bit on some scraps to understand the mechanics.

>>1043401
Harbor freight sells a 55 lb anvil. Nothing fancy and it's rather soft, but it'll do the job. I believe I got mine for $45 with a coupon or something.

Alternatively, you could try to source a bit of railroad track. The rails themselves are quite hard and serve well as an anvil I hear, but they're hard to cut and are technically illegal to have unless you have a bill of sale. Rail laws are super weird.

File: image.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

>>1043604
Whoops. THIS pic related.

File: knife.jpg (98KB, 838x382px) Image search: [Google]

98KB, 838x382px

>>1033430
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooEVzQnv1gM
Made this about a month ago, my first atempt at forging something.

>>1043604
> Thinking about borrowing a buddy's grinding wheel with some kind of wire brush attachment,

those things are a bit like being shot with flechette ammunition - wires can go flying.

I'd get a anglegrinder with a scotchbrite disc. far safer than wire.. then use scotchbrite by hand for the last bits, and then clean it all up with files.

>>1043605
Great job for a first timer. You should make one of decent steel.


>>1043699
Looks nice.

>>1043462

Incredibly cheap. Rather short. Not much to lose by checking it out.

Can anyone recommend a blacksmith or metal worker that takes commissions?

>>1044431

Best to get one close to where you live. Then you can deal in person.

So where do you live?

>>1044444
Western Indiana.

>>1044445

Sorry brah, Canada here.

>>1044431
you know, its a pretty fucking big planet. I can suggest someone in Sweden, but its not much use if you live in Argentina.

And what _sort_ of commission? I can recommend you some of the world's best swordsmiths. Not much fucking sue if you want a pair of gates made.

And what sort of budget too?

Ask a vague question, and you'll never get a useful answer.

File: image.jpg (15KB, 480x360px) Image search: [Google]

15KB, 480x360px

>>1044446
No problem, thanks for the help
>>1044449
Sorry I don't frequent this board at all and forget this is a global site. Didn't mean to be vague.

Wanting to have a replica sword made, but I don't think it'd have to be made the traditional way just from the appearance. It's the firelink greatsword from darksouls. Ideally I'd like to keep it under a grand or so, but I've never bought a custom made sword so I don't know what the cost of these things are.

>>1044450
cant really suggest much for fantasy swords, or within that sort of budget.

I'd suggest asking around the Bladesmiths' forum, or Myarmoury.

>>1044450
considering that it's more of an twisted bar than an actual sword it's gonna be a lot cheaper than if it was an actual proper sword. Also a lot of basic smiths could do it.

File: Dirty Boy.jpg (86KB, 620x465px) Image search: [Google]

86KB, 620x465px

>>1033430
I've been stuck using a (char)coal forge for a while know but I've been looking to ghetto up a gas burner furnace.

All the ones I've researched seem to use old gas bottles for a body with refractory bricks inside.

Anyone on here have any build tips and / or any guides or blue prints would be awesome.

thanks /DIY/

>>1044745
I'm building a mini one tomorrow out of sheet metal & high-temp mortar, it'll only be a 30cm long with 7cm hole with end-caps though. Designed to be powered by a hand-held blowtorch and mostly just for the heat treating more than anything else.
There's nothing really innovative about it- pretty much a slightly larger coffee-can forge and about the size of a bucket.

File: image.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x2448px

>>1044745
I built mine out of an air compressor tank. I cut the ends off and welded hinges to them, lined it with ceramic fiber and then layered on some refractory cement. For my burner, I just use a propane weed torch from harbor freight. I rigged up some tubing and now have a blow dryer supplying air. It's probably not terribly heat efficient, but oh well. Pretty decent budget build, could probably be done cheaper.

Shitty pic, but pic related.

File: IMG_20160711_113720.jpg (300KB, 960x720px) Image search: [Google]

300KB, 960x720px

Try old wrenches

>>1044872
When you are fixin to get in a fight

File: image.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x2448px

Behold my super shitty yet functional Tongs!

Can i use a normal Hammer to make some blacksmithing work? I just want to make a striker out of a file

>>1033430
About how much money should I save up before getting a setup?

I've been interested in knifemaking and smithing for a while, but I'm not sure how much I need before actually starting. I have very minimal tools; almost nothing I can actually use for smithing (no grinder, no vice, etc.), so it's a little hard to gauge how much I should spend on my first time trying.

>>1045625
Depends entirely what you want to invest into it and what type of knives or tools you want to make.
Its not one of the cheaper hobbies, simply because its a mix of metallurgy, blacksmithing, carpentry, chemistry, welding, carving, metalwork, some basic materials engineering and hitting the fucking shit out of stuff.

Very basics for small knives using carbon steel

>File jig- 1m/3ft of pine timber around 2 x 4", 1m/3ft of 10-12mm steel rod, an eye bolt to fit, 2 x hose clamps, some woodwork screws and glue
>Files- 30-35cm Bastard flat file, smoothed sides and edges taken off, you will also find use for smaller hand files (Square, Round and Flat) for finishing and working on bolsters
>Assembly and use: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9iNDRwwBQQ

>Corded drill with variable speeds, best you can afford, generally 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm cobalt bits
>Drill flap disks, generally 80 and 200 grit I find handy
>Hacksaw + composite metal blades
>Peening hammer, flat-faced smiths hammer, heavy duty tongs or multi-grips
>Leather gloves, eye protection, particle masks
>Small flat-backed saw and mitre jig for timber
>Wet-dry paper: 80, 150, 600, 1200 grit, sanding block
>Metal or vehicle polish
>Drill stand vise

>Anvil- Sledgehammer head set on big block of wood or a railway track, sometimes hard to find but cheap
>Forge- generally the smaller tin-can types, there's lots of youtube vids on how to make one from scratch and scrap. Most come in around $50-100
>Propane torch + gas to suit the size, handheld and 1lb cylinders is fine for short work and heat-treat
>Metal tin deep enough to cover blade + oil (motor or veg)
>Tempering- Kitchen Stove to 230C + get an oven rated thermometer, you can also use a little benchtop grill if you have to

I tend to find a little 100-120mm angle grinder + thin cut, grinding disks and flap disks does a lot of work, plus handy for cutting metal.
Stick to 1075-1085 steels, they're, cheap, forgiving and easy to learn on.

File: craft.jpg (227KB, 760x596px) Image search: [Google]

227KB, 760x596px

>>1045668
Oh and a rotary tool, there's some derision from people about them, but truth be told they're just too handy for all the fiddly shit.

>>1045609

You can. I started that way about a year ago. But once you've bought a real forging hammer, you'll never want to go back.


>>1044745
I used a flue pipe for mine. Works okish. Lined it up with 50/50 mix and it does work out, but I wish it had better insulation.


>>1045625
Depends on how much you can niggerrig. A vice is quite handy, so I'd invest in a good one. My forge didn't cost me much because it was almost 100% niggerrigged, complete with anvil made of railroad track (if you do this...harden it. It's worth it).

>>1045669
+1 on the rotary tool. Everyone kept telling me how useless they were, don't waste the money. Well I bought one at target for like $30 and it might be the best tool I've bought for knifemaking. It helps with handle contours immensely.

>>1044450
did you want to be able to use it? to smash /slash with?

So i would like to forge a set of of qaulity wood carving chisels and gouges, the forging itself is mostly straight forward.

I'm not used to working with steels outside of 5160 for blades, and i really want these to have a good edge retention so I was thinking using, 1095, w1, w2, or o1. Does anyone have any experience with these steels and their heat treatment process? some are oil , some are water, but if I understood what i was researching the w series will sometimes crack or break in a water quench due to a thin cross section in knives or cutting tools.

>>1046223
o1 is easy mode honestly. Heat up your steel til it's non-magnetic, dunk it in 125 F oil of your choice. Love it.

>>1046223
O1 and W2 are great tool steels.

Personally, I favour O1
It likes a 5-10min soak at temperature
Dunk in warmed oil for 20-30sec
Clean the shit off and you need to get it into a pre-warmed oven ASAP, cannot stress that enough.
Temper to around 60HRC is about 230C for 2hr, then let it cool to room temp, 2nd temper at same for another 2hrs and it'll be great.

W2 is simpler with a single temper, but it does tend to need higher temperatures to get the HRC down to about 58-60, so that rules out most home ovens.
You can salt water quench, but dont!

>>1046249

Um, if you just temper longer at a lower temp, it has the save HRC lowering/toughness improving effect as tempering at a higher temp for a shorter time period. It just doesn't fit into the graphs as easily on most websites.

With a typical kitchen oven you could temper down a piece of W2, or whatever steel, down to like HRC 45 or lower if you left it in for a whole 24 hours at 230c.

If I remember correctly, Wayne Goddard talked about this being his preferred methodology for tempering in the $50 knife shop.

>>1033430

Hey guys! It would be cool if you could help a brother out and visit my thread >>1047004 more blacksmithing here

keep up the good work!!

>>1041793
Holy shit, he's one lucky motherfucker. Witnessed a death because of one of these things. Poor fella was mangled to shit.

File: 20160213_124723_HDR.jpg (3MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3264x1836px

Made these awhile back.

>>1047225
dafuq is that

>>1047227

It appears to be a pair of thongs with screw as a rivet. Will not hold.

got a Condor blade blank and am thinking on how to go about making scales

already have plenty of dried wood outside to at least practice with....I'd like to tap the blank so the scales can be attached with screws/changeable, but I don't know how easy it would be with the blade material, 1075

>>1033430
How loud is it? How to not/least annoy the neighbors while doing it?

I've thought a lot about starting out, but I live in an old European farmer's house, which means I have neighbors to both sides built right onto my house.

>>1047365
I live in a pretty dense suburban area. My house is less than 10 feet from my neighbor, and my garage connects to an alleyway. My forge >>1044774 here is kind of loud, and banging on steel isn't quiet, but I've been doing it for about a few months now and no one has complained.

>>1047365

Farms so small the neighbors have to share walls? That sounds pretty wierd!

>>1047365
I thought you had plenty of space in the countryside m8. Is bongland filled to the brim with sandniggers?

>>1047514
>bongland
>countryside has space
Most of what they call countryside, America calls rural suburbs.

let's say I'm making a small knife

does this need to be hardened? what do you gain from hardening a knife? Can I temper a knife without heat treating it?

>>1047662
>does this need to be hardened?
Yes
>what do you gain from hardening a knife?
It stays sharp for more than half a dozen cuts
>Can I temper a knife without heat treating it?
No

>>1047667
thanks

>>1033444

Fuck my hammer and anvil, I want all of this.

>>1033430

Would a fan for going in ductwork be acceptable for a small coal forge?

I'm all set up, but I need a blower and I'm trying not invest large sums of money until I figure out if I even enjoy the hobby.

>>1047713
Depends on how big the forge is, something like a hairdryer will move about 40L of air a second, your 80-100mm 12v PC fan will move about 20L a sec.
If price is a kicker, a couple of 12v fans in a U-connection into a main duct would probably move enough for a smallish-sized forge and be pretty quiet- you will need to get ones that are dust resistant though

File: Screenshot_20160501-131844.png (4MB, 1920x1080px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 1920x1080px

>>1047747

The forge is small, bordering on tiny. Here's a picture.

I used hairdryers, but I burnt out two in roughly 4 hours, so I'm trying find something new.

>>1047887

On a related note, I want to make the pipe bigger for more air at less speed since I was only getting one very hot spot and the rest stayed cold. The problem is that I only have pipe I have in larger sizes is galvanized. Can I burn the zinc off in a fire out back and use it, or is it always going to fry my lungs?

>>1047887
>I used hairdryers, but I burnt out two in roughly 4 hours, so I'm trying find something new.

Try a heat gun instead. Bonus is air is also hot. They run a long time stripping paint.

I fucking love heat guns and scoop them up for a couple of dollars at yard sales and flea markets. The are inexpensive new but now I scatter them everywhere for heat shrinking tubing, preheating parts b4 spray painting and other tasks.

>>1033430
Simple question. Where do I start? I always wanted to try making a knife or something

>>1041793

You don't fuck around with lathes. They feast upon the careless.

File: IMG-20160902-WA0002.jpg (2MB, 3840x2160px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3840x2160px

The first thing i have ever forged in my life.

R8 M8.

>>1041793
>2016
>using a manual lathe

why?

>>1041708
>gloves
There's a phrase called "getting degloved". It refers to getting the skin and meat ripped off the bones in your hand because you were wearing gloves and the gloves got caught in something that took what was in the glove with it

>>1047887
Weird, I have been running the same hair dryer for months.

>>1047901
Wouldn't one want the air to be cooler, for more oxygen? Idk

>>1047964
>Weird, I have been running the same hair dryer for months.

Do you have it set to cool, which just pushes air, rather than heat which of course heats the air up? Cause mine has lasted a long time and I have the cool button taped down.

>>1047972

If you actually remove/disable the heating element your hair dryer or heat gun will last a lot longer. Plus, I've heard, it works better for your forge. I haven't tried it, but this is what I've heard.

where do you guys get the air supply things?
do i go to the junkyard and ask for a leaf blower? or what do i ask for

>>1047987
go to garage sales or flea markets, or goodwill, hair dryers, shop-vacs, basically anything that will blow a decent amount of air and can be hooked or taped to a tube will work. I've seen people use bathroom vent fans they got from Home Depot and they work well enough.

File: image.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

>>1043605
Update. Here's my second attempt at a knife. Got the blade a little wider this time.

File: image.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

>>1048474
grinding it across the whole surface of the blade is intentional, idk why but I think that looks super cool

>>1048475
Whats up with your floor?
Looks like rubber

>>1048477
It's an engineered hardwood. Just kinda has a matte finish. It's nice, but my dogs are really fucking it up more than I had expected.

Putrid Irish labour

>>1047941
What is it?

I've got a piece of mystery 5cm x 14cm roundstock I found in a junk yard, any idea what to make out of it?

>>1050200
about $.50 in scrap metal sales, which you can put toward buying some metal that you know the composition of.

>>1050200
Make some sparks with it, take your best guess at what it is, and make a shitty shop knife out of it lol

File: P7210001.jpg (544KB, 1600x1200px) Image search: [Google]

544KB, 1600x1200px

My cheapo 'Toolbox' mini-forge for heat treating
Got a $6 toolbox at a hardware store, some high-temp mortar and sand (roughly a 70-30 mix). The little door I found a 90x90mm end-cap for steel fence posts, cheapo hinge, some machine bolts and filled that up with some mortar as well. 20mm Iron pipe fitting and a brass threaded pipe are the inlet for the blowtorch.
Interior hole is 5x5x25cm and made that out of cardboard covered in packing tape- which does just fine for the small run of little knives I'm working on

Let it set for about 48hr and gave it a quick 30min blast last night to see how it goes. Not too bad, holds heat really well, though I did have to shorten the inlet bit to maximise muh BTU's

Welding teacher asked me to make him a meat cleaver at school to help butcher pig carcasses at his house

I have absolutely no stock to speak of for making anything.


Think i could forge out the top of a railroad track for this? Would the steel be okay as far as anyone knows?

>>1050914
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlyW7kKHVOg
i dont think one spike has enough material for a cleaver

>>1050928
No i mean the top of the railroad track.

Not the spikes.

File: 155169078_vintage-foster-bros-carbon-steel-chefs-butcher-breaking-.jpg (103KB, 960x720px) Image search: [Google]

103KB, 960x720px

>>1050914
Depends on the era of track, really old ones are iron, theres a period they used lower carbon steel, alloy carbon steels- depending on the country of course. When I was a little fella, my grandfather (shearers cook-baker) helped me make some of my first knives out of spring steels from old saw blades and as far as I know they're still knocking around at a cousins farm somewhere being used to this day and yes, I'm fucking old.

Anyway, what you want is a breaking knife, not a cleaver. The breaker is used to split up carcases and will help get through cartilage, bone and sort of has the bevel profile of a very sharp machete (pic) with a blade of about 30-40cm long by about 30-40mm wide and around 4mm thick.
When you do make one, it does need some flexibility and bounce to it, so aim for something around HRC56-57 or so as a harder blade will chip when it hits bone and kind of being used as a bit of a pry-bar :)

>>1050947
Thanks for the input and info, ill run this by him and hopefully be posting in the next thread about what ill be doing, though id prefer to make both if i can help it.

And i wont play myself up, normally i do alot of stock removal as opposed to forging when it comes to knives, so this will definitely be a test for me seeing as there'll be a whole lot of hammer work.

I hope i can get everything done correctly when the time comes, and in the meantime ill try to practice shaping them out from some scrap mild steel till i feel comfortable to move on.

>>1050950
Nothing wrong with stock removal, its a technique that's quick, efficient and makes use of a fairly common flat bar material shape. Course if you get a big old ballbearing, billet or odd shaped lump of metal then stock removal is useless and it needs to be beaten into shape. So your challenge is to weigh up what you have in materials, its form, your tools and how to best make a functional knife out of it.

If I'm asked what is the most important part of a knife, its the material because the metal tells you the heat treatments you will need to use, the temperatures you need to work it at and ultimately what your metal will deliver to its intended application.

>>1050914
>I have absolutely no stock to speak of for making anything.

US: 1084 spec from The New Jersey Steel Baron: www,newjerseysteelbaron.com
UK: O1 from Ground Flat Stock: www.groundflatstock.com/
Australia: O1 or 1084: Artisan Supplies http://www.artisansupplies.com.au/

Search for "o1 steel [country]" in google. its not hard. Dont waste your time messing around with mystery metal.

>>1050200
Letter opener butter knife spoon fork anything.

What's a cheap and reliable belt grinder that can deal with stock removal

File: ss+(2016-09-08+at+01.37.01).png (15KB, 724x275px) Image search: [Google]

15KB, 724x275px

>>1050999
>Search for "o1 steel [country]" in google. its not hard. Dont waste your time messing around with mystery metal.
what if i live in a third world country and this is all they have?

>>1051147
O1 is good but usually quite expensive + I've already put a bit of info in this thread about its treatments which are slightly more involved than most steels, but there's alternative blade steels that do just fine.
>W2, 1075, 1084-85, 1095 etc

1075 is probably a good choice for larger knives as its extremely tough, not very expensive and relatively an easier material to work with.
15N20 and 5160 will also make a really nice, strong knife just by itself if you want to try something different

>>1051142
I have the craftsman 2x42 and it has been good to start with at $150, but the rpm is a little high and the horsepower is a little low. There's always the super cheap ones at harbor freight!

File: 20160806_214614.jpg (4MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 5312x2988px

Thoughts on puuko that I made the handle for?

File: 1343280939685.jpg (37KB, 178x178px) Image search: [Google]

37KB, 178x178px

>You are artistic enough but will never be manly enough to be a blacksmith
fuck you guys

>>1051820
Nah senpai I'm a pussy and I hammer steel, go give it a shot

>>1051679
I like seeing the purpleheart in there, its a timber not often used and its got some really nice qualities as a handle material.

>>1051820
It's easier than it looks.

>>1051820
you aren't just shaping the iron anon, you are shaping yourself as well.

>>1033444
Sauron watched this once and came all over his mace. Orcs still mention it in whispers till this day

>>1051820
Strength and fitness are kind of important, but not to the point its a barrier to working metal and there are a lot of ways to do that. I'm old as shit and still swing a hammer from time to time, lot of fellas in their 70s can do it. Maybe for not as long as younger guys, but they often figured out a lot of ways to work smarter than harder by that stage of their life too!

>>1051820
just starting it will get you into the 'manly' status

>>1043462
When I was in boy scouts, that was the extent of the metalworking badge. They took longer to get there, but with competent adults, sounds good. We also made a dished bowl, but dishing is pleeb tier that anyone can do. Ended up with a twisty hooky thingy of no real use, and the dished bowl.

Overall, sounds like a great starter course.

File: 1.jpg (19KB, 299x299px) Image search: [Google]

19KB, 299x299px

>>1043604
These? They fling broken bristles like needles. If your going to use one, wear 3 layers of heavy clothing, a leather apron, heavy leather gloves, goggles, and a face shield.

>>1047957
Doc here. That's not what degloving is.

Degloving is like when you pull rubber gloves off and it stays hanging off your finger inside out, except with your finger's flesh instead of the glove.

>>1043604
>>1053152
Bloody oath they do. I used one without knowing about their goddamn manticore tendencies and ended up pulling two inch long wires out of knees. They go in so fast it's like acupuncture and you hardly notice it until you try to move. Take care anon.

>>1053290
i had one lodge in my upper lip. hurt going in and out lol. i use face shield on everything now

File: image.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

A friend gave me an anvil he found. Now i've got a spare.

>>1053290
Yea, when someone says to wear both goggles and a face shield it comes from experience. Metal splinters are never fun.

File: image.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

>>1053569
cleaned it up a bit

>>1053569
Wish someone gave me a fucking 100lb anvil.
Only decent ones around are 7-800 bucks and more than likely being bought by some faggot to use as a 'rustic coffee table'

>>1053610
Same here. Only anvils available here are either at auction for way more than they are worth, or castshit from HF

>>1053599
The amount of Home Depot in this picture is disturbing...

File: image.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

Finally got around to moving all of my stuff to my new shop. Here's the welding/smithing section.

File: image.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

Woodworking and bladesmithing (stock removal and handles). Excuse the tablesaw, its a temporary. I'm an editor at a certain woodworking magazine so I get some product samples.

>>1053671
Dammit. That one messed up.

>>1053671
Pretty cool, that's a monster 3-burner forge happening.
Do you make blades part time as a job as well?

>>1053652
Yeah they're getting really scarce and pricing a lot of people out of the market, I mean I could lash out the cash and come home with one but the screaming wife syndrome will kick in. That can be expensive too

>Rolled my ankle really bad
>In a cast
>Can't stand up to do any smithing

I am super bummed, let me tell you.

>>1047951
My school had a bunch of real old ones. They've probably still got them.

>>1033697
Those ARE alligators, though

>>1053921
Nah, I make furniture as a hobby, so I usually do table legs and such, I do turn out a knife now and then but its rare.

What's the best way to restore old metal? I found a hand scythe in my shed that could clean up beautifully. Need to get rid of the rust and there's a small chip at the end of the blade that I'd have to smooth out somehow. Any pointers are appreciated.

>>1054356
Muriatic or dilute Hydrochloric acid for heavy rust, then rinse well.
You can re-profile a blade with sandpaper and a block depending on the damage or even an angle grinder with a flap disk, but to some extent something like a chip adds a bit of character.

>>1054361
Sounds good, thanks for the info!

how do people even heat treat swords in coal forges?
wouldnt it cool while you moved it around?

>>1054412
and now you understand just one reason why medieval swords can have 10 points of rockwell hardness variation along the blade length.

>>1054356
If you can soak it in distilled vinegar it will take the rust right off if you let it soak for 1-2 days then scrub with a wire brush
Rinse with water and an alkaline to help nutrilize the acidity of vinegar

Reprofile the edge with a file ( if it's fucked ) and give it a nice sharpening job if you can

I do this with old axe heads etc

my country uses butane/propane mixture would that work for a gas forge?

>>1054653
They both have similar burn profiles, should work, as long as it isn't some vehicle fuel version.

>>1034826
Omg nice bluegem 2000keyz profit gg

>>1051905
thats deep. and I totally agree with it