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Making a camper

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Thread replies: 39
Thread images: 7

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Hey guys,
I am outfitting my car as a camper to travel around europe and russia. What do you think?
How much solar power do you recommend? Any tips?
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get lots of insurance
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>>1027853
I got the normal car insurance. What insurances do you recommend?
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>>1028093
Pretty sure they mean get good insurance because if you're in an accident everything not held down is a projectile. Or they're doubting your craftsmanship.
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>>1028138
Not him, but, prob more:
>russia?
>GOOD insurance..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODrDR9D28RE
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Sleep in a hammock instead of a bed. Visit hammock forums. You'll have more usable vehicle space and be more comfortable.
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>>1027850
Couple of deep-cycle batteries, inverter and a 150w solar panels generally does most of the 4wd'ers I've known that do the long distance touring.
That'll run a mini fridge, lots of lights and various other accessories without too much bother.
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>>1028278
Oh and the small amount of driving I've done in Ukraine and Russia... yeah, road rules are just suggestions, lots of them are drunk and the roads are truly fucked so take at least 2 spare tyres.
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>>1028246
I constructed a bed already, its really space efficient because my table, my seats and another wood plate makes the basis.
>>1028278
Do you know anything which combines loading the batteries, managing the solarpower and also charging via car motor in one device?
>>1028279
Yeah, i guess so...:( Do you know anything about LPG (autogas) in russia?
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>>1027850
There is a series on youtube by a guy called nutnfancy who covers this. He is sort of autistic but he spends a lot of time in his.
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>>1028556
>Do you know anything which combines loading the batteries, managing the solarpower and also charging via car motor in one device?
They do not make such a device. You will want to keep all of these things isolated, and only run one at a time to avoid damaging components.
http://www.powerstream.com/battery-isolator.htm or https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP32-Battery-Relay-Isolator/dp/B001HBYXVS
Both do the same thing in different ways
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>>1028556
I've used these in the past when my father was running a 4wd fit-out business
http://www.piranhaoffroad.com.au/product/dual-battery-management/management-systems
But there's other variations on the theme for less-more, but those are pretty tough. Mostly those ones manage your charge into the primary (battery used for starting, accessories) and a 2nd deep cycle you mount somewhere else (generally a battery box out the back) so when the primary isn't being charged by the alternator, it'll trickle down into the deep cycle. Or alternatively you can have the solar on the roof and just have the system run the charge into a couple of deep cycles. Most of the time you can get away with no solar and just rely on the regular driving to keep batteries charged- if you plan on driving every day, no need for the solar, but if you hang around a place for a while the solars good for keeping everything topped up.

LPG systems?
Know quite a bit as I had an old 70's muscle car years ago which was dual-fuel.
If you do have an LPG system, go for the direct injection ones, they're generally a lot more efficient- but being LPG the trade off is that its not as energy dense as petrol or diesel, so there's less power. But the fuel itself is generally about half the price or less of petrol.
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>>1028093
Make sure your insurance covers your possessions in the car, and not just the car it's self. One bad accident could easily wreck everything you own. Also, like >>1028162 points out, Russian roads are full of literal fucking crazy people.
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Update:
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>>1029361
you in Karlsruhe?
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>>1028279
This. Also any road besides highway (which is just wide strip os asphalt) is total shit with hole big enough to tires hang in the air. If you want to go deeper in Eastern teritories just invest in Lada. Theye're cheap and parts are available pretty much anywhere.
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It looks pretty good desu but i'd get hella depressed with all that unfinished wood around me.
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>>1027850
Solar, as much as you can fit/afford.

Fit a dashcam, this way should you be in an accident or someone tries to pretend you hit them then you have proof, if you don't believe me then just go to YouTube and search for "Russian Dashcam" and watch the full horror!

This might sound obvious but Russia is cold as fuck in the winter, so if I were you I'd begin in Russia before the snows and move southwards as the winter sweeps in, winter in southern Spain/Italy/Greece is easy, central and eastern Europe in the winter is an asshole in winter unless you are in a properly constructed and heavily insulated vehicle.

Get medical/travel/breakdown insurance, and make sure you are covered by your car insurance for travel in other countries.
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I don't think you are going to be able to fit more than 250w on that van.
Thats the size of a regular house panel.

Remember 250w is peak power, which is measured at 25c and on a clear day.
So most of the time expect to get less than 250w.

But first you should figure out how much power you actually need. You will likely need 2 or more deep cycle "leisure" batteries. You can also charge the batteries using the alternator on your engine.
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>>1029372
Visitin a friend there and partly outfitting the car
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmLCKjZbGJQ&index=47&list=PL2l32K1w0jp-m04Jl-3PHmtapevOuCeIp

This guy's videos should help a lot. I know in one of the videos he talks about solar panels on his Samba but I can't remember which one.
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In in the market for a used van so that I can do this myself.
Any recommendations or things I should avoid /o/?
Will slowly contribute random pics I've recently collected.
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>>1029651
that pic is from this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5CEWqoUTwk

Maybe chevy astro or gmc safari (same thing, but if you can't find one or the other)
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>>1029651
EU or US?
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Outfitting a van myself OP. Have gone with a 200W solar panel, 130AH AGM service battery and a Ctek D250S controller.

The Ctek will charge the service battery from alternator or solar and when its full will send solar power to main battery to keep it topped up as well.
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>>1029838
US
I want something minimal with no fancy computers or wiring or stupid self closing doors, heated seats, etc.
I want something that gets decent gas mileage (shooting for 25 maybe).
I want something reliable and cheap to maintain.
After retrofitting it as a camper, I plan on living in this 1-2 months every year.
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>>1027850
Have u already done this before? Was a guy on /b that did.
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>>1029974
test
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>>1029974
>>1030161
>>1029974
>>1030161
Sorry about the test post. sometimes i type out a half hour response only for the internet to deny me.
>I want something that gets decent gas mileage (shooting for 25 maybe).
you only chance is a dieles, if you want any kind of room. Be aware you will have to mes with DEF, some mechanics refuse to service dielsel, a new vehicle will cost $5k more with a diesel engine, and it will die faster if you go to places with fine airborne dust.

I have done a LOT of homework on this myself, because i am doing the same exact thing. even had a sprinter can with only 100k miles lined up to buy for $16k, which is a good deal for a 2009... but i ended up buying new.

Almost every dealership i called said the same thing, "the large vans with extended roof are commercial vehicles, they get bought by a company, and barring an unexpected 'surprise' they get used into the ground until they die. The only time we had 'good' vans like this for sale was back in 2008 when businesses closed and had to sell off new vehicles they just bought"
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>>1029974
Brand new, the Dodge RAM, Ford Transit, and Mercedes Sprinter all get 25mpg or higher.

But 5 years or older, your only choice is a diesel Sprinter. Preferably with a manual transmission.

Or maybe a VW T3 if you want something on the small side. They are simple to work on too.


>>1030166
>Be aware you will have to mes with DEF
>and it will die faster if you go to places with fine airborne

What the fuck is a DEF? This is the first time hearing of such things and I've only ever owned diesel vehicles.

>some mechanics refuse to service dielsel
Why? The only thing you really need a specialist mechanic for is rebuilding pump and injectors. Otherwise its a pretty normal engine.

>Almost every dealership i called said the same thing, "the large vans with extended roof are commercial vehicles, they get bought by a company, and barring an unexpected 'surprise' they get used into the ground until they die. The only time we had 'good' vans like this for sale was back in 2008 when businesses closed and had to sell off new vehicles they just bought"

In Europe you can get "cheap" twenty year old Sprinters for €1000, ten year olds for €2000 and five year old ones for €6000 pretty easy.

Most businesses will replace their fleet after 5 years when they go out of warranty.
After 5 years, tax deductions make it more economical to buy another one.
I don't know why someone would keep them that long. Maybe there just isn't a market for used panel vans in the US.
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>>1030255
DEF = diesel exhaust fluid. Mandatory additive in a bunch of US states for lame emissions laws. Doesn't sound like you're gonna have to worry about it.
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>>1030255
>I don't know why someone would keep them that long. Maybe there just isn't a market for used panel vans in the US.

There isn't, and they last so long there's no other reason to get rid of them.
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>>1027850
Tip:
Coat every surface that isnt touched or rubbed on with a hydrophobic coating. First the inside metal walls before the insulation, the ceiling/upper walls, and under/ inside shelve and cabinets.
Then vent it well, with good insulation like Mylar coated blue foam panels, you can stay warm with constant air flow.
All this is essential to comfortable long term living in confined space. It will get damp and musty quick just from your sleeping breath alone.

Try to find "Neverwet" spray if you can. There is some concrete coatings used for art projects available now that repel water too. Could be re-purposed.

Hydrophobic isnt water "proof"/ impermeable like epoxy/rubber/plastic coatings. It actively repels water with a nano surface moister cant stick to which means no condensation, hence the good vent, airborne moisture will follow path of least resistance. The surface will brush off/ wear down quick thus non contact locations. But mold up in your nooks and crannys will not be an issue and your breath wont stick to the ceiling to rain on you when you wake up.

$.02
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>>1027855
2"x4"s?! Really? Really?
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>>1031341
>It will get damp and musty quick just from your sleeping breath alone.
Get a roof vent and use it, sure it will let the heat out in the night but you will be under the covers, but at least the van will be dry and will not smell like mold.
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>>1031341
>>1032708
you could also use some kind of active dehumidifier
Thread posts: 39
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