Question about copper pipes in split AC units.

Nope. No problem at all. I'm an expert in the industry...

>>1024271
If I were you I'd go to the hardware store and get some insulation just to wrap around the tubes for good measure. Should be fine in the winter tho, copper is quite maluable compared to steel and other metals

hmm thanks for the replies, I might pick some up in the future unless I forget, good to know it'll probably be fine in winter any way though

Are you saying that the refrigeration lines or the condensate line is without insulation?

>>1024293
both have insulation but not enough, there's about 10cm of exposed copper near the end of the line, on both

>>1024295
On the Freon lines it won't matter at all, it doesn't freeze up. The insulation is there to hold in the cold and improve efficiency. The water line would only be a concern if water were to pool inside the line, which won't happen if it was installed to drain properly. I'd be more worried about the copper being exposed to the elements than the cold. You might see some corrosion in the exposed areas in a few years. Not a major concern, but no reason not to throw $5 of foam tape on it.

>>1024271
10cm of exposed pipe wont make any difference at all.

What kind of temperatures do you see during the winter? Also which medium runs through the pipes? If it's water it could be a problem but they usually either use a mixture of water with propylene glycol or ethylene glycol to make sure it doesn't freeze during winter.

>>1024395
Also what do you use it for? If it's for a freezer room or the likes that are in use annually the pump keeps the medium running throughout the year. If it's for room cooling which you don't need during the winter anyway, the pump won't be in use and the medium won't be running which means it's likely to freeze.

>>1024395
>>1024397
pretty sure they're freon pipes, and the temp winter aint nothing too severe, -10C/14 F usually, I might use the AC for mild heating in winter, otherwise I heat with stove, I might get around to just putting isolation on when I'm less lazy though, sounds like a good idea, only problem is i have to go to the hardware store lol

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>>1024271
If any of the fittings or copper lines leading to the outside compressor is exposed and has condensed water or frost on it when the AC is being used, then that means it's supposed to be insulated. You lose a lot of cooling capacity if that line is left bare.

The insulation doesn't cost much--last time I got some it cost $1.75 for a 6-foot length. It cost literally pocket change.

I got that insulation for somebody else who was missing about 10" (40cm) on their cold-air line.
Measuring with a digital thermometer before & after, the temperature at the registers dropped by just about 10° F (5.5° C).

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It's fine.

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After skimming over this thread I decided to take a close look at the lines between my condenser and blower because it always seemed a little off to me (2nd summer since I bought the house). Pic is what I have, that's the uninsulated line pressed, taped, and zip-tied into the seam on the insulated line. Late's better than never, but I really wish I bothered to take a closer look earlier.

>>1024723
lol, that's not too bad of a camo job

>>1024700
That's not a low temperature and freon is pretty safe to use. I wouldn't worry about that, but as mentioned the isolation is an investment that's well worth it as you'll save plenty of money on electricity

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>>1024770
Non-pro tips, but tips anyway:
...There is two kinda of pipe insulation sold for this: rubber and polyethylene. The rubber stuff insulates a bit better but it tends to dry out and shrink over time. The polyethylene stuff still insulates way better than nothing and it doesn't shrink. In your photo it looks like someone used the rubber stuff but it shrank so much that it no longer covers the pipe now.
...The pipe that gets cold (when the AC is running) should be totally insulated. The pipe that gets warm should not be insulated at all.
...If you get the split-tube insulation it comes with some self-adhesive tape on the slit, but don't do that. Just get the correct size and snap it on the pipe, it will stay on its own. Because....
...If the water gets trapped in the insulation, it will corrode the pipe,,,,, So on non-vertical pipe--you always snap the insulation on with the open slit facing downwards, so that any condensation that still forms can drip right out the bottom.
...On the outside section, check it very year. UV light (sunlight) will destroy either kind of pipe insulation over time.

>>1024955
And this looks really odd to me because it looks like they put the insulation on the wrong pipe?

On US units, the two pipes are different sizes.

The pipe that gets cold is the fatter pipe, and this pipe should be totally insulated. This is the return line where the used coolant flows from the inside unit back to the outside condenser. The reason you insulate it is because you ONLY want it to absorb heat from *inside* the house.

The pipe that gets warm is the smaller/thinner pipe, and it should be left totally NON-insulated. This is the compressor line where the coolant flows from the outdoor compressor to the inside unit. It is supposed to be left bare.

Other countries may not use two different size lines, so thats why I said to just run the AC and see which line gets cold.....

>>1024825
Very, that's most likely why I missed it.

>>1024955
Yeah, went out to Mexican Depot after posting to buy some new insulation and replaced everything, seams are down on the horizontal portions.

>>1024964
Nope, both condenser lines were jammed into the same sleeve. The fat guy in the front is the drain line for condensation.

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>>1025024
>both condenser lines were jammed into the same sleeve