Fish tank SOS

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Help me resolve this underwater horror.

>>2400569
lower light time
make sure algaes not ick
tell mees ur bottomfeeder types

>>2400587
and stop putting so much damned chems in your tanky

>>2400569
Make sure your filter is running at max capacity if it's variable, and increase your water change percent until the problem's fixed.

>>2400569
First off, shrimp do shit. The reason why they're so low in bioload is because they really don't eat and poop much, meaning they really aren't going to eat a whole lot of algae.

Second, snails aren't going to touch the massive amount of hair and black beard algae you got going. They tend to go for run of the mill green algae that you could just scrape off.

Siamese Algae Eaters or Amerifat Flagfish would be a much better choice.

Something is off. You obviously know about the golden ratio of CO2 vs nutrients vs light. It's all about tweaking those. You are dosing excel but I'm guessing you are unwilling to do straight up CO2 injection, so let's work with that. Your CO2 is not going up.

>>2400588
Excel is a CO2 intermediate, not a fert. It's not the problem, and removing it would very, very likely worsen the situation.

The primary culprit is very, very likely something >>2400587
>>2400588 said: light. Why a 34 hour cycle? How the fuck did you arrive at that?

Long, uninterrupted streaks of intense light benefits algae more than the plants you want. Try doing two three hour sets of light per 24 hours, e.g. three hours on, one hour off, three hours on.

You could even just leave the light off for a couple days: your plants will be fine. The algae will not.

Also, make sure you are not overfeeding or overstocking fish. Excessive nutrients will also worsen the problem. You could combat this by >>2400616's suggestion of greater water changes but it's probably better overall just to not overfeed/stock for now.

Finally, you can also speed up the process of recovery by nuking the BBA and hair algae and other infected plants. There are several ways. The least risky I've found is hydrogen peroxide. Turn off filters, use a syringe to directly apply a bit of H2O2 to the algae. Watch it bubble off. Let it sit for half an hour. Normal 3-5% is good enough. Turn filter back on. Some people go extreme and do bleach or permanganate dips.

>>2400640
I should add if you are looking into nuking your plants, google that shit on the risks and what concentrations you want to use on which plants. Permanganate is less risky but obviously not something you'd magically have on-hand.

>>2400640
>>2400641
Ooh. Totally forgot to mention: you could also dim your light if you want a bit more on-time. E.g. 50% brightness and a 4 hour on - 1 hour off - 4 hour on cycle.

Also make sure your tank is not getting sunlight. Even indirect sunlight is a huge amount of PAR.

My congratulations, you have Compsopogon coeruleus in tank now.
Dwarf crayfishes eat it, but they also eat other plants, except for Cryptocoryne lutea.

Feed less food less often
More frequent water changes
More frequent gravel vac
Shorter photo period
Physically remove algae

Crank up your filter, use a pre-filter and a water polisher to catch any floating algae that you scraped into the water. I use a sponge pre-filter on my intake and modified my filter tubing to pump the return water into a perforated container lined with paper towels for additional fine particulate filtering

Maybe quarantine some plants in a separate container for a while, makes it easier to physically remove algae by hand and let your plant starve the rest out

I took all of these steps and successfully controlled a similar situation. Wasn't dosing any CO2 or ferts