Previous thread -
This thread is for the spirited discussion of CRT displays - Televisions, monitors and projectors used for the playing of retro games!
>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright! (maybe)
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.
Discussion of video processing and scaling devices is okay, but try to keep the focus on CRTs and CRT accessories
CRT Pastebin (WIP): http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x
S-Video Pasta: http://pastebin.com/rH2h6C7W
Thread Survey: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1PhdXJYwA8xModrTV1Yt-i1tvNgwiagpeBx0m_xNIVtc/viewform?edit_requested=true&fbzx=9009823977812318933
Virtua Racer on panasonic BT-H1390yn shadow mask RGB monitor, pic from last thread because I'm away for xmas.
Dragon Warrior, same monitor, new famicom :)
Seems to be a PCB for Dragon Quest with a 60-to-72 pin adapter backwards in a Bases Loaded 2 case plugged into a 72-to-60 pin adapter in a Famicom
But actually it's probably an N8 everdrive in there. Still doesn't explain why it's back-to-front though. I guess that 72-to-60 pin adapter actually flips the order so you can see your labels.
flash cart (neverdrive, as in NEVER buy this everdrive) hooked to a famicom with an adapter. also a PC monitor on right, and some stuff left over from my Famicom AV mod on the table.
back to front 'cause it's a chinese adapter that flips the cart slot around to the correct orientation.
Had to solder some wires and cut some traces on the back to make it work with castlevania III, but it's good now. I'll try to find a pic of the wiring work that made it 100% compatible.
Any movie that has a studio or a control room has tons of PVMs.
Armageddon, Goldeneye, Contact all have a bunch of PVMs for example.
Hell I've seen a Rin Aoki JAV that has a shot of a PVM with her on it. I'd get a screenshot but I can't remember which one it is from.
When I say to never buy an everdrive, I say so because the MMC5 implementation's a joke (no games but castlevania III work in my tests), MMC4 support's a joke (both Fire Emblem games have graphical glitches Krikzz's known about for months and not fixed), VRC6 and FDS expansion audio aren't very good, and the powerpak has a better MMC5 implementation.
Would it be safe to place a bvm-d24(etc) directly on a surface without the little rubber feet?
It looks like it has some vented areas id assume for heat dissipation.
I looked under my bvm-20f1u and its a solid metal sheet no vents.
The stand i want to put the d24 on isnt deep enough to accomodate the rubber feet. Hence my question.
Its only temporary until I decide on a more permanent solution.
Looking a few different woodworking companies to have shelving/stands made for my consoles/games etc.
I'm not too worried because now that I think about it, people put them sideways all the time, and that blocks an entire side of ventilation.
I just wasn't sure If the little feet really mattered.
They are probably there to protect the surface of the table more than keep the monitor elevated now that I think about it.
I don't want to be spoon fed exactly, but is there anything in my area worth picking up? I have limited knowledge on crts.
>does the everdrive support expansion audio in a NES?
Well, kind of. The chip simulations aren't very good but it can somewhat simulate the VRC6 and the RP2C33 (sound chip in the famicom disk system). The MMC5 should have expansion sound but Krikzz's MMC5 mapper is a horrible abortion of a mapper that only supports castlevania 3 (which does not use expansion sound in the MMC5 version), so not really.
Also, you do have to put a 47k ohm resistor between two pins on the NES expansion port for it to work. I forget what the pins are because I usually use the famicom now.
There's this wega http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/ele/5325749016.html if you feel like settling for something that isn't an RGB monitor until you find one, but it's pretty big. You'll also likely have to adjust the geometry.
This is from Mel Gibson's trailer in the first Lethal Weapon movie. Not sure what model, but it looks like a PVM or something.
Trying to put together clean, looping CRT gifs is just frustrating.
If you put the GIFs themselves looping in the TV it'll probably save you a lot of trouble
Still trying to get that PVM-14L2 I mentioned in the last thread, guy ignored my offer of $125 CAD ($90 USD) so I bumped it up to $150 ($110), don't know if I should spend more than that. I'm jealous of everyone that gets these for free or <$50, but unfortunately they are hard to come by in Canada.
Ordering one from the states is an option but with the shitty conversion rate and hassle/risk of shipping I'm not sure if its worth it.
is this a nice tv /crt/? I'm at my grandparents house spending the holidays and brought my Saturn with me. is it worth it bringing back with me?
Chances are you can get a Sony non-HD trinitron WEGA for a very low sum of money/free depending on where you live, might be worth going that route instead if you're just looking at a consumer tv.
That looks pretty nice as far as shadow masks go, actually. I'd try for a non-flat one myself though.
I just got a new (actually old but my first DSLR and new to me) camera and a new toy under it. Will be taking some more CRT pics with it when I get back home.
I guess you meant aperture grille.
in tv land AFAIK there was never triniclones
in video monitor land, there are olympus which are simply rebranded sonys.
in pc monitor land, there's a fair amount of triniclones, many have -tron suffixes. Diamondtron, sonictron... There's also NEC Cromaclear slotmask which is related to aperture grille
The problem is more with getting each frame cleanly, and with the same exposure.
And forget about a decent filesize, even with them downscaled.
Might just make a webm later.
Any BVM experts out there know about this setting buried deep in the maintenance menu of my BKM-10R? It appears to deinterlace the picture much like the teletext kludge Faginrs500 did a video about a while back.
Doesn't work 100% - sometimes gives a rolling picture like the v-hold is off and there is some flicker but still pretty cool I thought.
Do NOT risk shipping. I can almost guarantee something will happen. Being as its Christmas (for the states folk) maybe up your limit. If it really is hard to get these in Canada, don't risk ordering from out of the country.
My Toshiba died today
How do I get rid of it without pollution?
That's pretty cool. Not a setting I've heard of before. I wonder what its use was in the world before retro gaming?
What model BVM is your BKM-10R card plugged into, out of interest?
He didn't even deny my offer or send me a counter-offer on eBay which is customary to do..he just let the offer expire automatically after 3 days with no contact.
I did send a new offer for higher and put in the note field that I could pick up locally/deal in cash if preferred but have heard nothing yet.
Hope you have a shovel so you can give it a proper burial.
If it does arrive intact, then color me suprised. I've found those packs with the expanding foam are the best way to ship CRT's but they're still pretty vulnerable.
I'm not sure if I should be asking here, but I figured better to ask than make a whole thread since this is tangentially related to CRTs in its own way.
Do any of you guys use receivers for your setups with your CRTs? I've been growing my console collection and while I considered a plain old switch, I've been considering getting a receiver instead to have a nice sound setup as well as the switching capabilities for my consoles and other retro-home theater setups (gonna pick up an LD player in the future as well). Anyone got any recs for what to look out for on the market?
i had some friends over last week and when we went to play on my CRT they complained about a really high pitch noise that was driving them crazy...so we couldn't play on my TV and instead played N64 on my widescreen. which looked like blurry shit. and i couldn't hear the noise they were complaining about
I must have had this TV for at least 10 years and never had a problem with noise coming from it.
I even had the same friends over before and used the TV before without any problems. I have no idea what is going on. Is my TV on it's last legs?
The monitor itself is a 20G1E.
I really want to know if:
A - I'm likely to cause any damage by using this setting.
B - If not, whether the rolling and flicker can be dialled out.
I reckon we could have scanlines on a budget here if it can be made to work effectively.
My gf is sensitive to crt whine too, might have something to do with being 11 years younger than me. Or perhaps she's just a dog...
Try running a 15khz tone out of a freeware generator on pc/mac/linux. If you can't hear it congratulations, you're partially deaf and able to use glorious tube monitors like a real man!
I'm going to parrot others here, but avoid UPS if you must ship.
I've noticed different sets have different degrees of noise.
I believe it's worse on some sets than others, depending on how the adhesive on the transformer windings is holding up. If it's starting to loosen up, it could resonate and make it more audible/louder.
My 20M2 is louder than my GX, but my 14M2 and OEV203 are both pretty quiet; The Megaview's fans sort of cover up/mask any noise it makes when displaying 15khz sources.
I usually hear it. It tips me of when I forget to switch the monitor off after playing. Normally I don't care that much about it because it's such a familiar sound. Some monitors/TVs are louder than others.
I remember it taking me a long time to realize that that sound was emitted from the TVs as a child. Probably around the time when 60Hz gaming was becoming common here in Europe (so around GC era) since when games would switch up to 60Hz from 50Hz the pitch would change slightly.
Yeah, it's fine. Honestly, as long as it's a decently known brand like Panasonic or Samsung, you're fine. If you're really concerned about having the best quality, a PVM or another brand of professional monitor is the best choice.
I still think trinitrons are the best in terms of consumer TVs, though. But it's not that big of a deal.
All CRTs have a signature whine anon, to varying degrees. Try turning the set on mute and putting your ear close to the side/back and you may be able to hear it.
I can definitely hear it, but it's usually quite faint after initially turning the set on and gameplay makes it almost inaudible. It's different for everyone, I guess.
Yeah webm with a large bitrate is probably the way to go for these, even if the filesize for GIF wasn't ginourmous it still has the problem of the 256 color limit. Managed to skim off 3MB of the file by optimizing it with gifsicle though.
Still that actually looks pretty good
Comfy Status: no name brand CRT+ clone consoles.
BUT surprising development regarding clones.
The Super Retro Trio does NES S-video...and it is NOT HORRIBLE (at least not on this shitty CRT). Pics incoming.
Shout out to Gamestop who surprisingly came through with PS1/legacy s-video cables on Christmas Eve.
My apologies, photo are from an iPad so it isnt pro quality.
But SRT does Nes S-video better than it does Genesis S-video.
Slight "neon-ing" of color and a diagnonalish checkerboard pattern appear.
Also, after seeing this NES S-video I cant go back to playing NES roms off of my Everdrive 64 via Svideo. It is DOG SHIT in comparison.
My eyes are bleeding from trying to read that やきポラト sign through that monitor.
Yeah, but the sharpness makes it almost tolerable. I was planning on leaving my SRT at my parents but now I want to experiment more.
The only reason I didnt try NES before on it w/ my PVM back at my home apartment is that I had no games for it. But its frustrating that between the SRT and Retron 3 there is no one ultimate best console.
> Superior Sega S-video
> Neutral SNES S-video
> No NES S-video
>NES S-video in fair quality
>Neutral SNES S-video
>Terrible Genesis S-video
Guess I need both.
I don't know if it's taboo to ask here, but I'm looking for a decent converter from HDMI or VGA to S-video or Component YPbPr.
I love my Trinitron and was hoping to get more use out of it with emus. I've been searching for hours now and was wondering if anyone can personally recommend a good/affordable unit?
Hah, just took this picture tonight of my new setup. Got my hands on a PVM-20M4U last month and finally scraped together all the components for a decent retro gaming setup.
I didn't own a PS1 when I was younger, and never played FF7, so I figured it would be a good game to christen my hardware with. RGB signal from a PS1 is excellent. The shitty aftermarket memory card I found doesn't seem to work very well, though.
I've had this Sony receiver for years, got it for a buck at a church fair. Can't remember the model number, but it's pretty old, late '70s, I think. Recently picked up the Sony SS-B3000 speakers for 15 bucks on ebay. They sound amazing. After years of listening to the shitty built-in speakers on modern flat screens, this was pure audio euphoria. Also picked up another cheap Sony receiver a while back for my brother to use in his garage. Also sounds great. I'd say you could pick up almost any old analog Sony receiver back from when they were still made in Japan and you'll have a great piece of equipment that will last forever and sounds nice and clean.
Also, while cleaning, found the manual to my childhood CRT, a 20" Mitsubishi. Parents bought it for us in 1987 so we could use the NES and the Commodore without tying up their TV. Pretty sure that it's still in the attic at my parent's house. I played every video game from 2nd generation to 7th on that thing.
My mom even saved this plastic decal that was on the screen when it was new. I did a quick Google search and Mitsubishi still makes LED screens with the "Diamond Vision" label. Wonder if it signified a specific kind of CRT tech, or if it was just a generic term to advertise clarity.
Also, someone posted this, but I don't know how updated it is.
So we'll see duplicates of this post in the repair thread, the waifu thread, the threads about game designers, and all other threads about gaming that aren't about games, yes? I admire both your purism and your dedication, anon.
Just do what I did. Hit up ebay/craigslist/flea markets for a nice receiver and a set of bookshelf speakers. Stuff like this goes cheap, as audiophiles are a dying breed. More people care about how shit looks than how it sounds, and most can't be bothered with multi-speaker/surround sound setups anymore since sound bars became a thing.
I'll say again that I support any old equipment with the Sony name on it. I don't wanna sound like a brand-fag, but every piece of Sony hardware I've bought has been awesome. If you find anything by Sony that says "MADE IN JAPAN", I can almost guarantee it will be old, cheap, and sound pretty damn great.
Hey everyone, I'm the guy that found the PVM-1342Q at the Goodwill. Got a VGA to BNC cable and built a PC with some spare parts and a motherboard and processor from the Goodwill. There is a dark spot in the picture but it's hardly noticeable, just needs to be degaussed. Graphics card is an Nvidia GeForce 7800GS, outputs VGA and S-Video and it's capable of 15khz output.
Got a few shitty pics, first one's DOOM through S-Video
And here's DOOM through RGB, composite sync
The S-Video image is a bit blurrier because it wouldn't focus right, but the difference between S-Video and RGB is staggering nonetheless.
It wasn't until 6th gen when most games started pumping out the audio channels for surround sound. You can still play an older game on a surround sound system, it just won't be as immersive.
>the difference between S-Video and RGB is staggering
With consoles S-Video is pretty good, a big jump over composite, where the jump to RGB from S-Video typically isn't as big.
In your case the VGA port might be outputting a clean 480i signal if the card is capable of 15kHz, but the S-Video port tends not to work the same way. It *will* be outputting 480i, but it'll be doing so no matter what resolution the other ports are set to. So 240p, 480p and 720p all get turned into 480i and look like blurred shit. What happens with your res actually set to 480i i'm not sure, but it might be reinterlacing or even double-interlacing it. Either way iot seems to look like ass, but the S-Video port from a GPU *always* looks like ass.
I honestly thought S-Video was worse than composite for a long while due to the horrible quality of GPU S-Video outputs... (I never had one with composite). Also living in PAL land so much less artifacting on PAL composite.
they are both clones and both therefore suck ass. You can mod a genesis for good s-video you know. And the retron 3/is actually a more original clone in that it uses a reverse engineered real CPU and PPU instead of a shitty NES emulator. the NES PPU only outputs composite and so the retron 3 only outputs composite in NES mode.
for you. Don't dissuade other because YOU think it's good enough.
and as far as NESRGB board goes, it's worth every $/£/€ given the dev that went in it. It's the install that is often inflated, not because it's hard, but because it's tedious.
I said nothing about install difficulty. I mod consoles and have even done NESRGB installs. the results were underwhelming and none of the palettes looked quite right. The NES has remarkably good composite.
I've seen NES RGB pictures, none of it looks right. Are the colors really that off? I don't mind putting in effort/money to mod it, but I don't something that looks inferior to s-video or composite.
They could be worse, but if you want crystal clear 240p NES games with proper colors you should try retroarch nestopia on a wii, with the Nestopia 'canonical' palette (in 'core options'). That's the closest palette I've ever found - If I were at home I'd have a side by side comparison of a real NES composite signal to the canonical palette in retroarch. Maybe I'll post it in the next couple of days when I get back.
I play with composite, though, because the NES/famicom's composite quality is impressive and nothing beats original hardware.
stock NES only generates composite video, it's not like later consoles which generate rgb signals that are sent to a video encoder to generate svideo or composite. Only exceptions are arcade NES system PC10 and Sharp Famicom Titler, but they suffer from incompatibility (minor for Titler, major for PC10).
The best solution is the NESRGB mod, which generates RGB that can be used for svideo and composite, and that retains perfect compatibility.
which console ? SNES ?
Yes, everything is on the NESRGB board, you just have to connect wires to a socket or to the avout port if you mod an AVFamicom.
And if you're asking why I didn't just use the multiavout, it's because at the time I couldn't find a decent snes svideo cable that didn't induce checkerboard, while a $5 regular svideo cable shows no checkerboard.
NESRGB does fuck colors up, though. Just not as bad as a playhoice 10 PPU.
No, the best solution is to just use what it gives you; NES composite is excellent compared to almost every other console I've seen. The expensive solution if you don't care about colors is NESRGB. If you care about crispness more than color and want to burn $100, go ahead and get NESRGB. The best way if you don't mind non-original hardware is nestopia's canonical palette + 240p + wii with retroarch and component.
You are right that the NES doesn't output s-video though.
>both are clones and therefore suck ass
I'm sorry, I'm too busy enjoying my crisp clone/retron 3 genesis' S-video without having to mod anything because I don't know how and it is cheaper/easier this way. Come back when you have picture evidence that a Modded Genesis' S-video is superior to a Retron 3's Genesis S-video.
And like I said...despite the checkerboarding the Super Retro Trio's S-video NES is not perfect but tolerable. The sharpness is a treat and could help tide me over until that RetroUSB AVS console
Haha, no. It's tolerable because for a long time there was no readily available solution, but it's still pretty bad, nowhere near what a CXA1645 can output. Alternate phase looks decent on still screen but is shit once a scolling kicks in.
Your TV's got one terrible comb filter then. Mine does a good job even when scrolling. Far better than any CXAxxxx chips I've seen. Not perfect and artifact-free, but still very good.
not you, but I agree.
Not worth $100. No way in hell.
I'm sorry, I don't mod my consoles for RGB or S-video if they don't support it, and I don't play my games on retron 5 style emulators.
My man. Fuck proprietary connectors and questionable cables.
Telling you from the one nesRGB I did for someone else.that it's not actually worth it and the palettes aren't right. Nestopia has a truer palette than any in the NESRGB. If I could write custom palettes to the board, I'd gladly drop some money on one for myself.
Wondering if anyone can help. Got a PVM-204MU that seems to have tint issues. While playing games, the color temperature of the screen seems to shift on its own from warm to cold, then back to normal. Sometimes it stops for a while, other times it settles on one and stays there. Any ideas?
that has nothing to do with comb filter.
easy exemple : blaster master
tank speed is synchronised to phase alternate. But go on foot and ugly artifacts appear everywhere because of slower walk speed. These don't appear on nesrgb even when using composite because of a good encoder.
If it says "trinitron" on them
Would this tv be any good?
No they're still great speakers, albeit more expensive and larger, which probably isn't necessary for most peoples CRT set up, the Covos sound really good for their size and price point ($40 for a pair)
True enough. They'd probably go wonderfully with a 14'' PVM, especially if you were going for a semi-portable setup(and mounting them as you suggested), but would look a bit silly with a 20''.
Says the guy with floorstanders larger than his PVM.
Thinking about it, it's a shame you couldn't power the lepai off the PVM's DC out. If you could find something that would be able to power them and still sound decent off of 8V@.8A, you'd be set.
I wonder if there's any console that you'd be able to run off of that.
I'd stick to either the 14M4U or 14L5. They'll be on the newer end of the spectrum (late 90s, early 2000s) and will have the better features, and also accept component as well as RGB (other models do as well, just be mindful of this)
Lines don't really matter since pretty much all PVMs will display more than enough for any retro game system, but only the L5 model is capable of displaying 480p which is something to take into consideration if you're going to play Dreamcast or Gamecube games or what have you, although on 14 inches, I doubt it will be too noticeable.
Not sure. My 20M4U hardly whines at all, and it's about 19 years old. I don't think it saw much use, however. I had a couple of 32 inch JVCs that made my ears bleed, as nice as they looked. Might be worth taking to a repair shop if it's really bad and you have one that still works on CRTs. Could be some degraded sealant on the flyback transformer, which is one of the things I wouldn't touch unless I were a professional.
I guess I can't get too mad at that guy who's always triggered by people buying SCART cables because I'm triggered by people who settle for shit audio. You cared enough about how your game looks to hunt down a rare CRT, but you won't spend a little time and effort finding a good receiver/speaker set up? I suppose it takes up more space, but it's way easier to find cheap or free audio equipment than it is to find a PVM in the first place.
Also, these are awful and expensive suggestions.
Just buy a nice set of bookshelf speakers. I like Sony and JBL, but many other brands are fine. I recently picked up a pair of SS-B1000 as seen here >>2877832 for about 25 bucks. They're not super high-end, but they get some damn nice sound. They're about a 10-year old speaker, so they'll be easy to find and cheap without you having to worry about the cones being too worn out. SS-MB105 is also a good speaker by Sony. Look for something with both a woofer and a tweeter (big cone and little cone, as in pic related) to get a good mix for your highs and lows. Keep in mind for the kind of speakers I'm suggesting, you will require an receiver/amp, they can't just be plugged into a source.
Search craigslist and lowball the fuck out of people. Nobody wants speakers anymore since sound bars hit the market.
I imagine 12-14 inches is A-OK. All depends on how close you sit. Fighting games are easy to see since the characters are usually pretty large and the screen is usually tight on the action.
I have a decent (surround sound even) speaker setup too, but it's oriented wrong (90 degrees) because I usually use that with the HDTV.
If I want good sound quality while using the CRTs I usually just use headphones instead but most of the time I can't be bothered plugging them in. I could use a decent head phone amp, though. (I've only got a shitty (windy even) tube-transistor hybrid that I got for free now).
I use an old technics stereo, but I dont use it for a switch since there's only one video input on it anyway. I use the audio out on the trinitron and connect it to VCR1 on the stereo and just have a switch above it.
Sorry for the bad lighting, all I've got is a phone camera so I gotta open all these windows.
I bought a PVM off Ebay but it wouldn't work after shipping.
It was smashed on the ground, there's a huge chip on it and he used paper to package the fucking thing.
The seller doesn't want to refund me anything and says it's my fault and calls me a retard.
There goes 70 bucks.
Oh, well thanks anon.
It's my first time using this shit.
Aye. Yeah, you should be able to select "Return this item" or "Request a refund" or whatever from a dropdown on your "My eBay" page. It'll probably send a request to the seller, he'll deny it, you'll open a case with eBay and they'll just end up giving you $70.
1. you made a terrible mistake buying a pvm near holiday season.
2. yes open a dispute with paypal / ebay, you may get a partial refund.
3. if you dont get full refund but get partial, because in my experience anytime i tried getting a full when offered partial i got nothing in the end.
Same guy with the 8044Q from earlier. Same Super Famicom and everything.
I need to get a better camera for this.
Set a craigslist/ebay alert for for "PVM" . Use IFTTT and have it send alerts to your phone or whatever you want. That worked best for me.
Some people say to send emails to engineers at local TV stations, especially public access or PBS if you can. I did this and after 2 months, only got one email back telling me that they trashed all their monitors years ago. SO yeah.
I eventually found one for free on Craigslist, but after 3+ years of searching on and off. Results vary greatly depending on location. Where do you live and how far are you willing to drive?
Just be wary of ebay, because the damage rate during shipping of these things is fairly high, especially if the seller is a retard that doesn't know how to pack shit.
Be sure to bring a friend.
>600 lines and not very sharp but dat size tho
Believe me, if the thing itself isn't trashed, it'll look more than sharp enough for any retro game you could want to play.
Which specific model is it?
I found a rather nice PVM-14M2U for under $100. I am just wondering the year.
And I don't think I'll ever get the cords for VGA for dream cast or the cords for game cube considering their prices.
Yes it is. Were they official Sony s-vid cables? I use the PS3 ones for my PS2 since its all the same connector. I love Sony cables, they're always really high end.
$100 is steep in my opinion. I paid $50 for my PVM (a 14N6U just like that one), and I know a lot of people have been lucky enough to get far better deals on better monitors. But it depends on year, hours, condition -- a mid-2000s model with low hours would probably look incredible.
They're not the sharpest PVM but it should be adqueate. RGB makes a world of difference. If you're able, try to give it a look first; bring a source to test it out with (you will need BNC adapters if your source is not Y/C). It's the only way to know for sure.
Other than that, if your consoles are RGB-ready then absolutely, I like mine.
alright, I guess I'll keep an eye out for something better/cheaper. I emailed the guy about how many hours it may have, if its low enough Ill take a ride over and have a look. Thanks for the help man, appreciate it.
Who here component?
I was given a RCA TruFlat 15" for freesies over crimbus, i was excited but realized it lacked svideo.. however it does have two composite ports, back and side, plus a component video input. I usually get down on nes or n64. Composite on the nes is good enough for me even on my hd tv, but as we all know the 64 suffers a little on hdtvs (some worse than others, mines not bad however and there is no noticeable input lag)
Is there any advantage to using this crt with component cables? I know it can't convert to hd, as this is not an hdtv and the picture is great, it's practically brand new. I have read that it can get you to svideo quality picture which was what i am after. Who makes component n64 cables?
>pic somewhat related
Not my pic, pulled of google
Component does not explicitly mean HD; Just a higher quality video signal that happens to be capable of higher resolutions.
As >>2881974 mentioned, if you felt like modding the N64, you could convert the RGB to component; N64 doesn't have a terribly pretty picture even in RGB/Component, so that may not be worth your time.
As for premade cables, if those "HD Retrovision" cables ever came out, their SNES cable |should| work with a modded N64.
Nothing pre-6th gen supports component outright though.
You cannot 'achieve' s-video with component cables per se, you have to feed the set what it's expecting into those ports. A simple cable splitter, for example, wouldn't work. What you're looking for is a transcoder.
S-Video is a luminance signal and a chrominance signal separated out. Component YPbPr is luma, the difference between blue & luma and the difference between red & luma. Green is not carried and is instead derived from the given information.
Given this I would think that colorspace transcoding is not easy -- YPbPr is a very different signal from Y/C! A quick look on eBay shows me that powered converters are relatively easy to find, but slightly pricey -- and more importantly NOT likely to be a lossless process. Especially if you can't afford more than a basic eBay converter (looking to be about $80) it's probably not worth it anon, as you're likely going to lose a lot of quality anyway. Finding a converter that is certain to provide minimal quality loss might require quite a bit of research & money at this point, especially since we are dealing with more or less outmoded analogue signals.
Damn, okay thanks guys! Honestly I was kinda hoping you all were gonna just call me a retarded faggot and tell me to buy a gamecube cable off eBay and use that or something along those lines. Looks like it's still either pvm/rgb or upscaler. I'll just make do with what was given to me and enjoy the fact I can once again play duckhunt
FWIW, RGB->Component transcoding is probably not as big a deal. As others have said though it would first require modifying your N64 to output RGB.
it's a Mitsubishi AM-3501R
there was a bunch of different xc37's (which is actually not a 37") so not sure how it compares with yours but I did some reading and found it was basically a presentation monitor used to show graphs etc, and not supposed to be a cad monitor or anything like that, makes sense since it doesn't do higher than 800x600. Also the fucker weighs 266lb and doesn't have a single handle.
there's also a x37 on page 372?
Looks like the bigger one is a 20L5, which can do 480p. Definitely worth it, especially if you plan to play any 6th gen stuff.
Just keep this in mind: people will always have a different idea of what a "fair deal" is on these monitors. They have no inherent value. I spent years looking for one, and passed or tried to haggle many deals down to a more fair price, only to end up without a monitor. Ultimately, I found one for free, and it was a great deal, but it took THREE YEARS, and it was just dumb luck I got a jump on it. Chances are I could have been looking for another three years before finding a decent one. If you really want one as soon as possible, pay as much as you are willing to. There are only so many left.
Aye, that's my listing. Unfortunately, I'm not the original owner and I don't believe this model tracks hours. I bought it from a video studio that clearly hadn't used it in a while. I can check the year later today.
Here's a small album I put together for another guy that dropped off the face of the earth: https://imgur.com/a/RCeHq
>The geometry's good but not perfect ... With the first Kirby picture, you can tell the green border gets a bit wiggly near the top, but then you can look at the Super Metroid pic and see whether or not it's noticeable during regular gameplay.
I'll email you as well. Feel free to reply in either place.
>there was a bunch of different xc37's (which is actually not a 37") so not sure how it compares
Yeah, they released several different versions with different specs and the like. I believe the model I have is actually one of if not the last/"newest" of said line being that I haven't seen any with a higher model number (XC-3730c) and seems to support the highest sync rates out of the large monitors(possibly with the exception of one of the NECs).
>not supposed to be a cad monitor or anything like that, makes sense since it doesn't do higher than 800x600
The "not a CAD monitor" is more so for the fact that it wouldn't be terribly sharp with such a large dot pitch. They address that directly when talking about the 26'' Mitsubishi.
I'm in no way qualified to make such a statement, but 800x600 for 1990-91 wouldn't be something I'd call terrible. And looking at the article, it's the XC's that claim to support 800x600, the AM's are limited to just VGA.
Still good enough for Dreamcast though, which I'm sure would look nice on it.
Jesus christ; How did they manage to make a smaller monitor weigh so much more? I thought moving the one I had was hell with just those little hand holds on the bottom; I can't imagine another 50lbs on top of that.
Looks like it has a bit of pin cushioning going on, but still really nice; Did you try adjusting it in the service menu at all?
>Did you try adjusting it in the service menu at all?
I did, but it was my first PVM and you know how it can be - fix one thing, screw up a few others - so I left it. I don't doubt it can be fixed that way, though.
I did read the AM does 800x600 somewhere else from someone who used it for mame but I doubt I would ever use it. I can also easily transcode component to vga so this should cover all the 4:3, 240 and 480p stuff for me.
I'll take some pics if I actually make it there and back alive.
Might want to try doing a factory reset. I forget how you do it. Mine had a little geometry issue I couldn't seem to fix, and it ended up easier to go back to factory and tweak it from there.
>switcher guy here. yeah, the green clamps are for stereo. the in3808 supports the use of balanced audio which is not something I'd personally use but great to have.
hey, switcher guy. i ordered one of those 3808s with balanced audio.
do you use the audio i/o or just video? can i simply run unbalanced R into R+, L into L+ and tie the grounds together into the middle ground slot? ignoring the R-/L-?
i'm not an audio guy... obviously.
>ignoring the R-/L-?
actually, since the 5-port jacks go
>R+ R- GND L- R+
and i have a bunch of 3.81mm 3 pos plugs, could it work just sending audio down the - side?
i wouldn't have to cut up plugs or buy more that way...
i can't test it now, or i'd just do it and let you guys know
Question for you guys. I am housesitting for a family friend and found an old tv in their garage that looks a lot like the one in this picture. The only input on it is a coaxial cable. I want to use it as a second monitor on my PC. My graphics card has a DVI input (which is being used by my main monitor) and 4 HDMI inputs.
Would my best course of action be to hook my main monitor up via HDMI and get a DVI to HDMI adapter like this one?
I also saw a few Coaxial to HDMI converters but they all seemed meant more for tv shit and not computer hook ups. Not sure how stupid this question is one way or the other, but I'm a little bit lost on what should be my best way to get this thing hooked up.
Sorry for the double post. I found another one out there that has an RCA input. I think I probably only need this to hook it up from my PC. http://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00KBQZC4M/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1451419185&sr=1-2&keywords=hdmi+to+rca
Am I missing any crucial details or does this seem to be fine?
Funny enough there is one of those out there but it's like 4 ft deep and won't fit on my desk. I also like the aesthetics of the tvs a little better. The final reason is that this will probably be offered to me for free. (other than the cost of the converter, and I have 18 bucks in amazon credit to begin with)
Match your ambient lighting, if you use any.
I tend to play in the dark, or as close as I can get to dark so higher numbers (D93 off the top of my head?) works best for me. If you have artificial lights on in your room you're going to want D65.
If it's an excessively loud "whine" other than what would be typical of a 15KHz set, the High Voltage Anode Cup from the Flyback on your tube could potentially be cracked or otherwise going bad.
For those that ordered PVM's off E-bay what is your story?
Did it come fine? Did it come damaged?
I am looking at one but I am quite nervous about shipping due to all the horror stories I've heard.
Earth's magnetic field has different intensity depending on the latitude. If you buy a TV from, say, Canada, and you live in southern Europe degaussing will not work properly, resulting in FUCKED colors.
Is there a way to adjust the latter's degaussing for a technician? If I ever were to buy a CRT I'd buy one of those and I'd hate to spend money only for having it not work in my region, that's why I'm asking.
I ordered mine off of eBay, shipping was even free. It wasn't very expensive and I had no hope of getting one locally so I took a gamble. Shows up, single boxed, with no protection around it other than packing peanuts inside.
...Not a scratch on it. Booted right up. I was shocked and I think i just got really, really lucky. It certainly helped that it was a somewhat snug fit in the box so it couldn't be bumped around much.
So in the past, I've heard people say that an HD CRT is not a good solution for retro gaming because it is designed for higher resolutions, but isn't one of the strengths of a CRT that it has no native resolution? Aren't HD CRTs just capable of more lines? Shouldn't it, essentially, be just as good for retro games by simply scanning fewer lines? The two points seem to contradict each other...
The problem with most HDCRT TV's is that they upscale standard definition. They only display 1080i because many of them are designed to take digital signals. This causes them to have the same lag inherent to LCD's and upscale artifacting. You lose two of the major advantages of CRT.
There are some professional HDCRT's that don't have this problem, but they are exceedingly rare. If an HDCRT has HDMI or DVI, you certainly don't want it for standard definition.
I've heard that HD CRTs lag even in 480p. vid related
>They only display 1080i because many of them are designed to take digital signals.
Based on reading I've done, it either gets bumped up to 480p or 960i.
It's not terrible comparatively to your average LCD, but there are LCDs that can get lower results. 2 frames on most games isn't noticeable, but I'm sure it would throw some people off in more precise games.
Avoid UPS; Go Fedex or even a dedicated freight company if possible.
You could also request to see the way it's packed and padded before shipping to hopefully avoid getting a heavy ass box full of crumpled paper and broken monitor.
>degaussing just smashes an alternating magnetic field onto...
...onto whatever the wand or coil is near. It removes magnetic bias from other things. The set may need to be calibrated for different hemispheres/regions, the degausser just works everywhere except for in the presence of an even stronger field. You'd have to be next to a huuuuge subwoofer or inside a powerstation or alongside an industrial zinc or aluminium smelter for that to happen though.
Yep. Well, a BVM. Wrapped in one layer of clingwrap on it's own small pallet, which last was ripped to pieces. The set had buttons toen off the front - how? - and it looked like someone had dropped a cinderblock onto the top of it from 3 floors up. I demanded, and received, a full refund.
I also had a 14" PVM shipped. Had a mate in the seller's city pick it up, get it spacefoamed into a larger box, and drop it off at a freight depot my work uses. That freighting company is known in Tasmania as the one to use for getting things down here. They pay attention to labels like "fragile" and they *never* mis- or even double-handle.
Depends. Composite from what, displayed on what? From a Wii on a PVM is better than any LCD. From a genesis on a shit VCR/TV combo... possibly the LCD if you use filters and scale things right. Not that the LCD will look very good even so.
> excessively loud "whine" other than what would be typical of a 15KHz set
It is. It's louder than my other CRTs.
> High Voltage Anode Cup from the Flyback on your tube could potentially be cracked or otherwise going bad.
I see. Would I have to turn the tv on to see if there's anything wrong beyond cracking? Would there be any way to get this fixed?
>Would there be any way to get this fixed?
I would make some calls to TV repair shops to see if they even work on CRTs, but I'd leave it to a professional. I'm quite sure the anode and the flyback are two of the parts that retain extremely high voltage, even when the TV is off and unplugged.
Sorry anon, this was a few years ago now and I don't recall for certain. I'm thinking UPS, could be wrong, but again I'm pretty sure lady luck was just on my side that day. UPS also wrecked my computer during shipping around the same time.
Tracked down the shipping receipt, can confirm now it was UPS. Can also confirm now they ruined my computer during the very same month, starting a very lengthy and aggravating damage claim process. So... Take that as you will.
Like, everything. Composite in a CRT will always look better than even component on a LCD. CRTs are inherently superior for anything that has a low resolution, no matter what signal. Heck, I have a one chip SNES that looks far better with RF in a CRT than component in a LCD. Now, if I wanted a glaring image, I would just emulate.
Given that fact that most PVM-grade sets don't really have gaps between phosphors horizontally, and your picture has no gaps *vertically*, what were you trying to illustrate?
It's not even shopped, it's just an emulator shot on an LCD. There are CRT shots out there, or anyway i believe they are, but they're always of sonic standing in front of a waterfall or that single shot with the rainbow corona.
If you want to look at sonic in front of a waterfall, be my guest and use your shitty CRT with terrible convergence and large amounts of noise in the signal. Keeps the prices down on good sets for the rest of us.
Does anyone know if those S-Video signal switchers cause any input lag or other problems?
I really don't like trying to reach all the way into the back of my huge Sony Trinitron just to play a different console with S-Video every time.
I have 2 BVMs that have no issues on their own. When I daisy chain them together, they both get 1 or 2 horizontal lines of "distortion" scrolling up or down the screen.
Don't know how else to describe it. It's relatively subtle, but the type of thing you can't unsee and defeats the point. Anyone have an idea of how to fix it?
I guess this would be the best place to ask this. I read the s-video pasta, but I didn't see anything about this.
I've s-video modded one of each sega genesis models and every one of them has jailbars and/or some weird color problems (example: reds look pink)
So I was thinking, would RGB converted to s-video have those problems? If I buy one of these
rip it open and hardwire the guts inside, would it be a noticeable improvement?
All those are for are feeding an S-Video signal to a SCART input that accepts S-Video(or feed composite+audio over RCA to a SCART connector).
There's no signal conversion going on there, completely passive.
I'm home with my DSLR. Also, got a playstation. It had disc 1 of Parasite Eve in it, but disc 2 is nowhere to be found, so I'll be burning disc 2.
>1600 ISO and the quality doesn't make me want to kill myself
My next project: programming a PIC or AVR and installing it as a PSX modchip.
Also, drilling holes for RGB RCA jacks in the back of the playstation if there's room. Not looked inside yet but it's a model SCPH-5501.
Oh hey, looks like the 'free 20L5' guy everyone bitches about isn't the only one here who got a free 20L5.
(I know this because I am the free 20L5 guy from previous threads)
Different for each monitor, and calibrate with color bars.
Unless, of course, you mean 'color temperature', in which case you want 6500 kelvin. That's broadcast standard. A lot of consumer TV's use 9300K, but they're wrong and just look flashier on showroom floors but give everything a blue tint.
Standard is 6500K.
You don't actually know what color temperatures are do you? They aren't brightness settings.
HE'S WRONG, DON'T LISTEN TO HIM. 6500K.
PAL broadcasters use 6500k as well. You're wrong.
Color broadcasters standardize around 6500k. A lot of non-michael-bay movies do too.
It's not the cup, it's the winding on the deflection yoke that might be cracked.
>So in the past, I've heard people say that an HD CRT is not a good solution for retro gaming because it is designed for higher resolutions, but isn't one of the strengths of a CRT that it has no native resolution?
HD CRT's stretch everything to a fixed resolution, so they in a way do have a fixed resolution, usually 1920x1080i in the scaler which uses pixels.
>Shouldn't it, essentially, be just as good for retro games by simply scanning fewer lines?
No, because it stretches images to fit a 1920x1080i image.
that's stretching the truth. They aren't rare at all, just usually pricey online.
There was a gore image of a PVM months ago where the phosphor coating was actually flaking off the inside of the tube.
>As a matter of fact, RGB is glaring and it distorts the true appearance of retro games
I'm the one who said that NES composite was good enough earlier, but you are wrong here. If a console outputs RGB you should use it. Also, the image on the right was clearly not taken on a CRT.
>Composite in a CRT will always look better than even component on a LCD.
not true, but with the NES I shall agree because it can't output anything but composite or RF modulated composite.
>most PVM-grade sets don't really have gaps between phosphors horizontally
They have gaps. Of course they have gaps. Otherwise you'd only have a white screen.
>It's not even shopped, it's just an emulator shot on an LCD
Your emulator filter that blurs the waterfall is crap then. On an emulator you should be getting the left image.
Also you forget to mention rainbow banding effects on genesis composite with the waterfalls. That was clearly not intended, and it happens on LCD's.
They shouldn't cause lag, no. Unless they scale stuff. If they cost less than $100 they won't.
I remember you from the other day. Still got no clue what your problem is. Maybe a ground loop? Pulling at straws.
I should clarify, rainbow banding happens on both CRT's and LCD's with genesis composite; Model 1 units are (apparently) particularly prone to it because they have pretty bad composite encoders.
>your emulator filter
My emulator what?
>On an emulator you should be getting the left image.
You mean as opposed to the emulator shot on the right? I'm actually confused. What did you mean?
>you forget to mention rainbow banding
And I used the term "rainbow corona" to mean...?
>They have gaps.
But those gaps aren't particularly visible, unlike in your emu shot which has vertical banding and no scanlines on the left. And then no scanlines, no banding and blocky as fuck blurred pixels on the right. Which leads back to my original question: what in particular were you trying to show us with that image?
What signal type, from what source? I've had different sets in a daisy chain using RGB, and they would perform differently than when separate. I had to rebuild my VGA-breakout cable and combine the syncs differently to get around the problem. Which wasn't the same as your problem, but you might give it a shot. Or try building a simple video amp?
My BVM has lines while it warms up, which takes the best part of 20 seconds. then they go away. That's probably no help though, i'm sure you've warmed up the set.
Some games seem to look better at 9300K than they do at 6500k; There's a thread on shmups that talks about it
I can say that Mega Man 2 isn't one of them though, if the palette's generated by FCEUGX are anything to go by.
I'd argue that it really all depends on one's lighting situation and a bit of personal taste.
Or maybe my eyes are just fucked, I dunno.
Amusingly, there is no D65 preset for my Sony PCCRT; Only 9300 and 5000 with a variable option that will let you set anything from 0-100.
>>HD CRT's stretch everything to a fixed resolution, so they in a way do have a fixed resolution, usually 1920x1080i in the scaler which uses pixels.
For Sony's stuff: If it's being run through the DRC, it'll end up as 960i windowboxed in a 1080i screen. 720p gets this treatment as well.
I believe; People on avsforum worked this out.
480p seems to get left alone for the most part, but still ends up with a two frame delay.
>Oh hey, looks like the 'free 20L5' guy everyone bitches about isn't the only one here who got a free 20L5.
Except I didn't say it was a 20L5. The one I got for free was a 20M4U. But I'm still in the market for a 20L5 because I play a lot of Dreamcast and Gamecube games, and I would appreciate the ability to do so in 480p. Otherwise I would be more than happy to stick with my 20M4U, because based on how clean the factory setting geometry was, and the story the previous owner gave me, it has seen very little use over the past 15 years.
Regardless, I have stated that I spent three years looking and am willing to admit to people I would have rather just paid 300 or 400 dollars for one and been using it and enjoying it for the past 3 years than waiting until now.
Not retro, but I thought it deserved a post anyway. I found my old laptop that had S-video out and decided to give this a go for shits and giggles. Wish you could lower the resolution to 240p, but 680x480 is as far as windows will go.
The radioshack switcher I have is pretty nice. It converts composite up to S-video and its high quality. Gold plated connections and all that if you really give a shit. They should still sell them in the store if you've got one local.
Also there's no lag from what I can tell. It's not even powered, its just a mechanical switch.
> Console sitting on a carpet
Why does this trigger me?
I meant the hardware itself, its weighted and the components are nice. The composite conversion is just handy extra if you have a vcr or something, most switchers will only do one or the other.
Kind of regretting not picking this up. Could have sold it for meme prices to an ironic smasher.
Just bought my second BVM but it's pic related.
What can I expect considering I live in the northern hemisphere? Will I be able to recalibrate using the service menu (I've got a pretty good handle on this by now) or will it involve pissing around with the yoke rings? I'm not averse to doing that if it's the only way but obviously the menu would be preferable.
>whenever an anime show video from a monitor it has scanlines
hahahaha, anon I tried this bumble fuck of a plan it sadly didn't work.
NTSC bro here, I ordered the genesis model 1 scart cable and the same adaptor in your pick. I thought I would be able to get a code svideo picture but it looked like shit. Pretty much the same quality as if I used a a female comp to s video cable. Save your shekels.
While we are on the subject, any anons got an svideo solution/hack that doesn't involve soldering ?
good luck finding one, at a reasonable price.
I'm interested in switching from Composite to SCART output on my Super Nintendo. But as my LG RU-27FB31C doesn't have the input to process this just Component, how do I make the leap simply? Do I have to find a switch, or are there SCART adapters to YPbPr or S-Video which I also have. I don't want to drop the money on a Framemeister. I have been able to find switches for SCART to A/V or S-Video but I don't know what works and don't want to wait a long time to be disappointed.
Well duh, that post you quoted has a scart splitter there. It doesn't encode anything, it just splits the SCART pins to separate outputs (or inputs).
To CONVERT RGB to S-video, you need an active encoder. That Micomsoft XMD works like that for example (I imagine it only has something like a CXA1645M inside and a bunch of passive components, while taking power from the 5V pin of the Megadrive output).
... and turns out that's pretty much what is inside, though it uses an older encoder, a CXA1145.
It could be pretty simple to make a DIY version of this, since all you need is a video encoder and a couple of caps and resistors and video output. About the most difficult thing would be adding a short cable to it that connects to the MD1 or MD2.
>have to install the retrorgb amp for my mini snes
>never soldered anything in my entire life
Is there a some sort of video tutorial for it? Or a good soldering video in general?
>>never soldered anything in my entire life
Go on craigslist and look for people giving away broken electronics. Go get those broken electronics. Open them up. Practice desoldering and soldering components to a PCB using those broken items. Learn how heated solder moves. Learn about what sort of temperature you are looking for. Learn how to solder a component or wire to another component or a trace without damaging the component or the PCB.
THEN attempt to install your pricy RGB amp. Otherwise you stand a good chance of destroying both the amp and the SNES. Learn on crap items, not good stuff.
Finally found the service manual for the 32 inch Sanyo I got a while back. It turns out to be a DS31590-00 if anyone cares about the details.
Thanks to the service menu I was able to make some improvements to the picture, which was off-center to the left just a little bit and cutting off image on all sides. The color settings were oddly set, putting them all back to factory specs didn't adjust the color levels all that much visually, but it did help cut down on some of the color bleeding I was having. Still, the service menu has about 30 settings that I have absolutely no understanding of. I figure you folks would probably know if anyone would, what does all this shit do?:
Asked earlier in the thread but didn't get an answer, so I return with pics.
While I'm playing on my new PVM, the color tint seems to shift. It did it a bit when I started playing, the screen would tint itself red/pink, then after warming up it stopped. Then about an hour later it started going all green occasionally. I can't tell if it's something with the cables or the TV. Sometimes unplugging and re-plugging the cable fixes it, as does shutting the TV, but sometimes it doesn't. It happens with both my PS1 and SNES, but I haven't noticed it with my Genesis yet, although I've played that one the least.
You can see the difference in my pics, I hope. Left is normal-ish, right is when it flickers full green. I've tested to see if perhaps it's a bad connection at the back of the monitor, but unplugging any of the R/G/B connectors seems to affect the picture in addition to this tint.
Hopefully this is the peak and he'll settle down and stop being such a prick. That was some sperglord-tier shitposting just there.
I'm not an expert, but I believe you should power things off for a while, rotate the set, and then leave it alone for like two days. Then power it on and test it, and degauss if necessary. I'd imagine the same goes when you need to un-rotate it.
If that's not quite right hopefully some other anon will chime in.
>If that's not quite right hopefully some other anon will chime in.
I have no idea, but do you know the reasoning behind this? I can't imagine why it would make a difference, but it HAS always struck me as inherently bad to tilt a CRT over on itself.
What happens when you set the levels in the menu? Still get the problem? What cables are you using? Do they have the right caps/resistors in/across the lines?
I've had something like this happen, I get a pinkish tint on one of my PVMs, but jiggling the connections at the back fixes it.
I have no idea why, but I remember reading a while back that it's bad for CRTs to set them sideways.
Score a point for flat panels when it comes to going horizontal for TATE mode I guess.
>What happens when you set the levels in the menu? Still get the problem?
The color temp levels you mean? It will alter things, but the way the colors flicker on their own make me think it's not a setting issue.
What cables are you using? Do they have the right caps/resistors in/across the lines?
Got them from retrogamingcables. I just popped them open to check, they seem to be together well enough. Nothing seems loose, as well as the caps and resistors
>inb4 that 20L5 fuckhead starts with his console modding bullshit
The Earth's magnetic field has a particular azimuth (compass bearing) and declination (angle from horizontal) at any point. You think you could just transfer sets across the world as long as they face the equator, but it doesn't seem to work like that. A lot of monitors imported down here in Aus had to have their convergence adjusted before they could be sold.
Either way, turning the set 90deg on it's side will have a big effect on the direction the earth's field hits the set. Hence it fucking up convergence. You should *definitely* leave the set unpowered for a few days after rotating.
>>inb4 that 20L5 fuckhead starts with his console modding bullshit
I'd totally help you if I knew what the problem was :( Might be a cap or resistor somewhere overvolting the green gun. NFI how you'd even track that down though.
Andi meant the RGB Bias/Gain in the menus, not colour temp. Bias is (at) black level, Gain is at brightest white. Adjust one colour to max and the others to zero and watch the screen tint.
Also, your set you should have numbered settings presets - like #1, #2. You could try adjusting one of those for when the monitor goes green? How long does it last? If it becomes permanent, adjusting your colour levels might be easiest, if they'll go far enough.
If not, have fun opening the set. Either way let us know how you get on :)
I was arguing against the guy who posted that image. We are different people.
>ome games seem to look better at 9300K than they do at 6500k; There's a thread on shmups that talks about it
Entirely subjective, and doesn't change it not being standard.
because the ways of Japan trigger you?
Rotate the deflection yoke. A lot.
go back to /g/
why the fuck isn't that using kana's if it's japanese?
I make good money doing that shit, people are stupid and pay way too much for modded consoles.
note that rainbow banding was reduced and even eliminated on later revisions and on 32x.
Except the blurriness on 40H modes is totally intended. 32H does not blend dithering on composite. And there are ways to get rid of the blending anyway as far as the signal can go.
And model 1 is the best for more than a couple of reasons..
>Entirely subjective, and doesn't change it not being standard.
>I'd argue that it really all depends on one's lighting situation and a bit of personal taste.
Never said otherwise.
Knowing that it's the WESTERN broadcast standard is all fine and dandy, but we're not doing video production for mass consumption or anything like that where something like that would be crucial for accuracy reasons; People should go with what looks best to them rather than feeling forced to conform to settings that may not even looks good to them.
There's information to suggest otherwise, but I don't feel up to arguing over this at the moment.
Because TV manufacturers know that people like bright and blue on showroom floors, right? The brightness is why most consumer sets used P-22 phosphors instead of the standard SMPTE-C.
I'm aware of that and the color temperature problem. Doesn't change what people use as standard.
Does that mean my yet-to-be-delivered BVM is fixable relatively easily?
That said it may well have already been set up correctly for the UK, but why wouldn't they remove the sticker? If I were to open the case and find the anode cap on the bottom of the tube that would be proof positive that's still got it's original setup right?
It's clearly ntsc.
>Did anyone ever produce 4:3 HD sets anyway?
Every set on this list starting from "high scan" and up
I've got this issue on a 13", it's intermittent but tapping the sides of it doesn't do anything so thinking its not a bad solder joint. Also doesn't seem to be a cable issue since the cables work fine with all my other monitors.
9 hr drive there and back
Running composite, can't seem to figure out how to get VGA running and haven't tried rgb since i don't have the cable on me. Geometry is good and no wobble in the picture
>fixable relatively easily?
I'm also not sure why that guy was talking about rotating the yoke. That would just tilt the entire picture.
And that set is Australian. The A at the end meant it was for down here. A lot of them seem to have been intended for Germany and then redirected, if the printing on their labels is anything to go by.
Then again it might be from somewhere like Brzil/Argentina? A lot of Germans emigrated there after WW2. Just a guess.
I don't have any other monitors to test with, but I really think it's the cables for me. Gonna try to get some others or make my own, because this morning I played my Wii and Genesis for hours on end and didn't have a single issue.
>Because TV manufacturers know that people like bright and blue on showroom floors, right?
Think for a second; Not only have you already brought this up, but it wouldn't be limited to just a single country either.
There are a few bits of published material (which I am sad to say I don't have) from the 80s which at least bring into question Japan using D65 as it's white point.
On top of this, it being the -broadcast standard- means absolutely nothing for situations where you're dealing with dedicated video devices; Even more so if you want to get into arcade hardware.
Sadly, the truth in situations like this is that in most cases like this, we can't hope to know exactly what color temp each and every game was meant to be played at and that leaves use to either choose one that looks good and stick with it or to go game by game and change it as needed.
>The brightness is why most consumer sets used P-22 phosphors instead of the standard SMPTE-C.
I'm sure it has nothing to do with the fact that P-22 phosphors both last longer and don't need as much re-calibration to keep "precise". SMPTE-C/EBU are obviously more accurate, but fall out of that easily
>Did anyone ever produce 4:3 HD sets anyway? My spider sense tells me it's unlikely
Sony has plenty of 4:3 Hi-Scan models.
>Power lights on the top
Now that's different.
As for VGA, would you be able to take a photo of the back inputs? All of these monitors seem to have different input boards.
playing this for the first time today
Here's one for you,
For at least a year i've been hunting for a Blaupunkt RGB TV In Australia.Finally one shows up close by so I snap it up (pictured TV with 27" viewable screen). Works like new and the geometry is A+, hard find, seen one out in the wild 15 years ago. Best consumer gaming CRT i've found after at least 2 solid years of hunting and trying stuff out.
Later that day, a very rare Blaupunkt shows up, rumour has it these ones came with calibration certificates for picture geometry etc...
When it rains it pours they say....
Oh god. I just bid on a PVM on E-bay
Wish me luck with shipping please.
the guy said he'd pack it pretty good with lots of packing material.
The guy has 100% feedback. I only plan on paying if I can ensure that the monitor is going to be packed well.
Hah, I have that for southern hem sticker on my BVM but it actually ended up there :P
lol I remember repeatedly copypasting 'Loewe Blaupunkt B&O Grundig etc' into ebay + gumtree before I got my monitors. Congrats anon!
I found a Sony Trinitron kv-20fv12 at a Value Village today for 10$.
I am having problems with my A/V front and back having a light "shadowing" error on brightly colored objects in games.
Example would be, in Sonic the rings show a shadow of themselves to the left. I tried using different AV cables and even different Genesis consoles. Still this shadowing persists.
Any ideas on how to fix it? Or is it fucked?
That pic its hard to see, here is a better one.
Ok so I've got a nice crt, it's got a couple of RGB scart ports. nice built in speakers and I can plug in better speakers far games where I really care about sound. The only problem is it's widescreen and I have some crappy universal remote which doesn't let me change the aspect ratio.
What are my options for replacing it? Should any remote by the manufacturer work? Are there any recommended universal remotes?
My sister has a 4:3 CRT I can have as an alternative. But that appears to only have mono sound and there's no way to attach speakers to it. Which is kinda annoying, especially if the speaker is shit (not had a chance to test it yet), I'm guessing it would be fairly simple to add a headphone jack socket to it, but if it's only got one speaker is it likely to support stereo output at all?
Am I comfy status yet /vr/?
Everything here is from second hand stores and local game shops.
Couldn't get it to output rgb/rgbhv at first, turned out it was because of the caked on dust on the bnc connectors, guy wasn't kidding when he said he'd only ever used composite.
To fuel my Star Wars mania after TFA I've been playing Rouge Leader in 480p Progressive Scan via Wii + Component on my PVM-14L5. Pretty awesome. The graphics hold up, and that was a launch game.
Another 3501 owner had the same issue, composite and s-video look alright, have to open the back and adjust the picture knob. With the 75 ohm position off the contrast seems to too high but the backrounds are really dark. With the 75 ohm on and the contrast/brightness up it doesn't look much better than the pic.
>The graphics hold up, and that was a launch game.
In my experience, with the Gamecube, most of the launch games are gorgeous. Rogue Squadron, Luigi's Mansion and Smash Bros. have some of the best graphics on the system. I really think that was the generation where we started to see the decline of the "later games look better" effect. Graphics became far less about learning to use the hardware and color palettes effectively, and more about just how much time they wanted to spend sculpting polygons.
Just got a PVM and some scart cables. PS1 works flawlessly but I'm getting this with my Genesis. What am I doing wrong?
>I visit /vr/ because people you invented a computer to be produced in Brazil which until then was widely neglected by Dyacom as it turns the key, clearly complexity hasn't improved upon the car is fast as Blood did as a culture that's more just how much Circle of the rest of the Soviet Union they went from badass
-> cuck transformation in voice acting, facial aesthetics etc
Open it and see what's wired. The reason I think it's jp21 is because you only have red, and red is the same for scart and jp21
Google SMPTE color bar, there's a ton of information out there
If you have certain retro consoles, plus a way to load ROMs onto them you can use 240p Test Suite to generate the test patterns.
Found this security system crt it's going to be funny hooking up some retro systems to this
>What signal type, from what source?
(4 days later...) Both RGB and Component. N64, SNES and Genesis output RGB to a SCART switch, that goes to a Sync Strike, which goes to a VGA splitter, which breaks out to the first BVM, daisy-chained to the second. Wii, X360 and PS3 output component to a switch, to a splitter, to the first BVM, daisy-chained to the second.
The fact that multiple systems and multiple signal types have the same issue lead me to assume it isn't the system cables. Would the fact that the RCA cables between the BVMs are 25' long matter? You're correct that it isn't a matter of warming up.
Last hoorah for my trini. Next I see it it'll be when I'm mounting it in an arcade cabinet. I'll probably get a replacement for consoles after that, I guess.