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WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Thread replies: 331
Thread images: 96

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Quicker Turnaround Edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo [Embed]
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Possession of this Galaxy is Mankind's birthright
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QdnDO5aCM4

>Previous Threads:
>>53707784
>>53682315
>>53652424
>>53611056
>>53581844
>>
Is there a way to test paint layers tok see how they look on models? I don't want to experiment on paints I might not need...
>>
>Previous Threads Cont. : >>53731499

lazy copy paste
>>
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> Must. not. pat. lil. chaplain. on. head.
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Changed poop whip. Added some snow for use in Frostgrave. C+C?
>>
>>53747226
How can they even compete? Etc, etc.
>>
>>53747226
>teaching feeling.jpg
C'mon, do it!
>>
>>53747260
besides reaper bones, which are cheapo and available in lots, mirliton, prince august, and essex all have relatively cheap metal mini selections
>>
How to conquer the fear of failure? Now that I've picked the army I actually want to play, bought some stuff and watched a few tutorials, how do I overcrome the fear of ducking up what I've already invested time and money into?

Also ideas for painting the sector imperialis bases?
>>
Reposting from the tail end of last thread.

Hey everyone, I'm looking for some suggestions for miniatures to paint.

In preparation for Kingdom Death coming out in the relatively near future, I've decided to try get up my painting chops, and I'm looking for suggestions for some interesting, fun minis to paint. I don't really care about any particular game I used to play necrons and a little bit of cryx, but it's been years and I was garbage at them but so far I've grabbed some Malifaux minis that were on sale at my LGS and am looking for more. Ideally something that's not super duper expensive, and has some nice variety in detail so I can get practice doing lots of different things and experiment.

Any ideas /tg/?
>>
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>>53747354
Take it slow, and take it easy. Remember, they'll stay for as long as you need them to, there's no rush.
Personally I'll usually throw on a movie or show to watch while I paint/model, make myself a cup of hot tea, and just enjoy it. Even if you mess something up, those little defects and mistakes give it character. I still have an Iron Lich Asphyxious from high school that is frankly, terribly painted but I love it anyway, because it was so much fun to do. It's not about making some kind of amazing stellar work of art, its about enjoying the process and enjoying making what are quite frankly in the end, "your dudes".
>>
>>53747365
That's awesome. Did you microwave a DV marine?
>>
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Tiny bit of progress today doing the pitting on the plastic. Needs a bit of clean up and a whole load of green stuff work.

>>53747354
Just relax, doesn't matter if you mess up, you can always try again and it's a learning experience every time.
>>
>>53747456
heat gun+ clothes iron
>>
>>53747226
Are custodes true scale?
Sick color scheme, much better than GW imo
>>
>>53747525
I hope you'll use plenty of texture paints when you'll paint it
>>
>>53747354
By realizing and accepting the following

You will get better by doing
you WILL after a few months, look back at the model you were really happy with and consider it garbage. And this is because you improve, and raise your standards.

I knw that it is a big as fuck treshold to crosss, particularly with resin, as you paid a mint and look at GREAT painters. But the best is just to get going.

If you want to see something of what i am talking about i can post encouraging before and after
>>
>>53747438
>>53747525
>>53747603
Thanks lads, this is encouraging. I will be sure to post here for lols and progress reports when I do get around to it
>>
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>>53747226
>>
I'm looking for some guidance on basing

I'm hoping to make some bases like an artillery wrecked, boggy no man's land. I've got Battlemire, my girlfriend bought me some resin to stuff to do water with and I'm getting some barbed wire - what else could I use?

Bearing in mind this is going to be with some sieging Imperial Fist Primaris marines, so it won't necessarily be all splintered wood and sandbags and torn up trees etc
>>
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>>53747573
Custodes are huge. taller than Terminators and Deathwatch.

I'd say Primaris are the same size as Custodes minus the extra height from the custodes tall helmet.
>>
>>53747804
- Matchsticks make good posts to string the barbed wire with
- Get some of the really thin corrugated cardboard and peel it, it's a pretty good stand in for corrugated iron.
- Bits of chaos marines (painted as iron warriors, of course)
>>
>>53747744
Good man, you will probably regret it at first, because you think you're "ruining" the models, but this is just like skinning your perfect knee while starting to run. It will make you better
>>
>>53747597
I'm actually planning on painting it quite clean then busting out the enamels for rust and weathering.

>>53747804
There is a regular here who posts blue coated death korps of kreig and I think has recently been painting up some khorne AoS stuff. He does really great looking bases just like your pic, try summoning him.
>>
>>53748009
I may be wrong, but I think Primaris are a little bit shorter than custodes, even if just by a small amount (also not counting extra height) from some pictures I've seen.
>>
>>53748149

you are correct
>>
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Painted helmet black, scrapped and went for gold/brass, then back for black. I don't understand this TMM thing much beyond theory... Also, how does one do black armour?
>>
>>53749338
Had to look that term up; sounds like you're still doing gradient highlighting like NMN, just using metallic paint.
>black armor
Start from dark gray, so you can shade down to black.
>>
Going to go for Minotaurs once I get my Primaris. Base is going to be Warplock Bronze, what is the best method to achieve a gritty war-torn / weathered look? Drybrushing, overbrushing or by layering then washing? Planning to wash with Seraphim Sepia.
>>
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I'm making slow progress through my backlog; same image as last thread, but I haven't been home to work on it more. How do you guys feel about a variety of skin tones on Eldar/Dark Eldar? The right is pre-wash/highlight "standard" DE skin, whereas the left is regular Cadian Fleshtone/Reikland. I'm experimenting with different shades as I go along, without duplicates outside of my Covens models; I'm not sure how different washes will interact (Druchii Violet over Cadian Fleshtone will probably look... weird), but it's a learning experience and all that. Any suggestions for combinations that might look good? And does anyone have that PDF of different ethnicities' skin colors and how to get them with model paints?

Left model is done, right has about 75% of the base coat.
>>
Can someone give me an interesting paint scheme for my next on force? I have my warriors painted and the sea of silver isn't exactly fun to look at. I have my canoptek spiders and wrsiths to do, along with some vehicles. I'm thinking black silver with purple highlights but I'm no good at visualizing good color pairings
>>
>>53749338

thin your paints
>>
ploughing through these for release weekend.
>>
>>53749809
And this one for meself.
>>
>>53749705

Not an expert but looking at the canoptek spiders, just how I'd envision the paint scheme.

Base purple
White for the lights, gems, insignias
Highlight blue that contracts the purple

Maybe wash violet or purple if you have them.
>>
>>53749617
I think a variety of skintones in the same force could look cool as long as the elements you choose to unify the force (armor or whatever) are strong and consistent enough. I'd think fucking around with pigmentation would be on the really simple end of what would be possible/considered fashionable in commorragh
>>
>>53749594
Sponge on some silver here and there
>>
Has anyone ever compiled a 'best of /wip/' gallery?
>>
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Collaboration with the wife on some 41st Millennium Bird Watching.
>>
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>>53749809

I'd like to plow some Primaris marines, if you know what I mean.
>>
>>53750325
archaeopteryxes (or whatever) look great, the scenery is nice, and I really like the freehand work on those shoulder pads. heartwarming hobby fun!
>>
>>53750364
oh i do....
>>
>>53749809
if they had just redesigned the jump packs for these dudes and come out with a new chainsword design or something I would have been pumped about the primaris assault marines, cause I like these the more I look at them. Those fucking baby skis are just unforgivable though. Nice paintjob, slightly lazy on the knees and helmets
>>
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Trying out some Tyranid paint schemes on spare parts. I like the look of Hive Fleet Behemoth in the artwork but I want to try to make the colors look a bit more organic than the usual fire truck red.

Do these colors look ok or are they too dull instead?
>>
>>53750509
Looks really fuckin' good in my opinion. You got the acid look down pat, the shell has its hints of shine, the flesh is a good complement without overpowering either.
>>
>>53750509
hard to say on a piece this small. it looks great now. try it on a larger tyranid monster to get the full effect. I have a feeling youre gonna want to be bolder with the carapace highlights, at least
>>
>>53750509
Have you thought about applying some Nurgle's rot on the tongue?
>>
>>53750509

Carapace looks goods, the red looks ok, maybe one more highlight another step up? A crimson could really sell the red look or something more purple to match the carapace more?

Also that's a lovely crisp looking pickle hes snacking on.
>>
>>53750544

Thanks man.

>>53750560

You are totally right, the edges are lacking highlights and the ones I have where the plates overlap could be bolder.

Bought the Start Collecting set but I haven't been able to decide on a scheme before now so I've just been painting old spare heads from my bitz box. Guess it's time to move on to actual models.


>>53750570

Not a fan of the dirty green of Nurgle's Rot, I'd rather keep the green parts bright to stand out against the duller skin.

>>53750575

Some parts could use another highlight, though to be honest I find many painters tend to over-highlight skin which makes it look blocky. Though that's probably just down to taste.

Don't think I'll give my nids pickles to suck on, but it was fun painting this slimy guy.
>>
>>53750509
How does sub assembling work?
>>
>>53751291
you just glue certain parts on later, it's not a very difficult concept
>>
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Just got all this Dreamblade stuff for just the postage cost. Rubbery boardgame plastics but there's some really weird stuff in there, some generic fantasy, some pulp sci-fi, some Lovecraftian, others in that baroque Dark Souls/Kingdom Death style. Actual humans are about 35mm and a bit shit, but plenty of monsters that look fine for 28mm either as miniatures or for terrain like statues.

I think I've reached peak miniature though, I'll never get everything painted in one lifetime.
>>
>>53751298
But I can't put primer and paint where I want to put the glue right? Should I use like masking tape?
>>
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So the plane isn't painted yet but I'm really happy with how the ground came out. Crashed P-40 for Bolt Action. (xpost from /hwg/)
>>
What is Astrogranite Debris actually supposed to be?
>>
Anyone got suggestions for an edge highlighting brush that isn't shit? The standard GW one is unusable.
>>
>>53751299
Be careful if you want to rebase those fuckers, some of them are really hard to cut through.

Taking the smaller square base out of the bigger base is a losing proposition, too.
>>
>>53751537
Cracked stone.
>>
>>53751357

Or you can scrape off the paint with a knife, file or fine-grit sandpaper afterwards.
>>
>>53751935
That sounds like a horrible idea
>>
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>>53734460
Work continues. Couple places could use some neatening up.
>>
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I'm making progress on my skirmish warband, hoping to get them done for Tuesday for a game
>>
>>53751537
My guess is the Astrogranites are supposed to represent gravel, rubble, that sort of battlefield debris that you get after a place has been so thoroughly fucked it's all just smashed up into fine powder, etc.
>>
>>53752116
>Couple places could use some neatening up.
Banner is the only thing that strikes me as needing work- the yellow is duller there- but beyond that it looks pretty good, m8y.
>>
Buying Ork Warbikers for the first time. How easy is it to convert them to Nobz?
>>
>>53752116

You do yellow over a black primer?

Mad man
>>
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Dorf
>>
Reminder that ANY ONE OF YOU can take home a Golden Demon given enough dedication! Here's a tutorial for help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FayBHOhucf0
>>
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>>53753017
stupid phone
>>
>>53753019
>that sounds like the pug butt tutorial
>it is

You get a thumbs up, Anonymous.
>>
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>>53753060
Just doing my part to inspire fellow anons. Just because we're on 4chan doesn't mean we can't help each other out!
>>
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>>53753038
>>
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Anyone have any idea on how to paint these Vostroyans? Need to start working on mine.
>>
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>>53752791
Oh god no. I use AP Daemonic Yellow spray primer, and then I layer Yriel Yellow onto it, and then glaze it twice over with Lamentors Yellow (AP's yellow is very dull and extremely matte, picture related.)
>>
>>53749823
Need a batter picture when it's daylight, But I'm calling this chap done.
>>
>>53753431
very blanchitsu, looks good
>>
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>>53753301
paint names are obviously outdated, but you could use the equivalency chart for the new colors, the vallejo game color range, which had equivalents for all GW paints or just freestyle and use this as a jumping off point.
>>
>>53753431
He looks so happy
>>
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>>53753532
Thank you kind anon
>>
What kind of mask/respirator should I use when working with resin and solvents/paints? I don't want to get cancer desu
>>
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>>53753711
>>
>>53753711
What gives you cancer is chronic exposure.
Not handling a handful miniatures and a few fumes every few months.

Unless you are a full time painter the panic some people like to spread is somewhat misplaced.

When working with resin just sand it whet, so you don't breath the dust, and open a window when using solvents.

If you want to buy a mask anyway just read the description and what the filters are good for.
>>
>>53753431
Forgot that i got a photo box deliberately because i paint at night, So i can actually take pictures.

>>53753491
Cheers!
>>53753590
He does, All the poxwalkers are full of character.
>>
>>53753711
>solvents/paints?
I've read over the safety shit on Vellejo's website, and what's in the OP. Most paints we are going to deal with as proud men who paint plastic soldiers/aliens/monsters/demons aren't going to cause us any problems whatsoever. Typically, only spray cans will pose a threat, but if you didn't know that already, you're an idiot and you should listen to Primus' 'Lacquerhead' track a few times or something to get the idea it's bad.

As >>53753794 says, you're probably fine, though I'd recommend those rigid disposable face masks. They tend to be cheap, and since you only need it when you use toxic glues (Testors does sell non-toxic plastic glue) or file resin, I doubt you -need- anything more heavy-duty unless you really want it.
>>
>>53753908
Please tell me how you did that base
>>
>>53754103
>>53754103
humbrol model filler built up with a spatula, With bits of dried stick just stuck into it or super glued onto the base, then spatula more filler on top. A few patches of stirland mud, then prime white.

Then paint entirely with model mates weathering washes. I started from green , then brown, then black, then green on top again.

That's it, just drown the whole thing in them and lert them wash together.I also used them to paint the trousers and the rust.
>>
>>53753337

Are army painter paints good? For priming and basing at least?
>>
Hey guys, I need some help/advice. So I'm working on a Sisters of Battle army, and I've hit a wee bit of a snag. See I need a design I can freehand onto the banners a few of my priests are carrying as well as the shields of my crusader conversions. Thing is I need something simple that I could realistically free hand on the lot of them without fucking up (i've never free handed before) that kinda fits with the army. Since the whole army is fluffed as a crusade I just figured I'd call whatever symbol I end up putting on the banners and shields the symbol of the crusade. Thing is I can't think up any good relatively simple options. Could you guys maybe give me some suggestions?
>>
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>>53754215
Iron Crosses are cannon. Just do the more line-based ones if you don't want the curve pic related has.
>>
>>53754246

Yeah I could do that.
>>
>>53754179
Yes but it's stupid expensive (at least up in Canada) so go with some regular spray primer if you can. I usually use Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X primer but they don't have yellow at my local hardware store unfortunately.

Seriously though, a regular can of spray paint is like maybe $4 and I think this thing ran me $10 or $15. If you can use normal person spray primer, do it.
>>
>>53753149
this looks pretty great from end to end. love the selective green wash on the gold
>>
>>53754416
Hey thanks man, I appreciate it.
>>
Is there an official guide to painting Farsight Enclave?
>>
>>53754719
I'm pretty sure Duncan made a video on them
>>
>>53754371

Would normal person spray primer work or does it look like shit? I've been told it would look like shit, and that you could tell at a glance, but to be fair, the dude was trying to sell me paint st the time.
>>
>>53754868
It's going to depend heavily on the primer; some primers would, I'm sure, look like shit. I use Duplicolor Sandable Auto Primer and it's easily the thinnest primer I've ever seen and works perfectly. I've heard other people swear by Rustoleum and Krylon, as well, so I'm sure those are good, but I recommend paying attention to the specific kind of primer they recommend as formulation can differ even within the same company.
>>
>>53754719
https://youtu.be/8CHVvvwbbek?list=PLEaPE4sLDA7ucJ0dkiVZSW6ghZUNGFHIW
>>
Why do people seem to think that the only form of highlighting is edge highlighting?
Is this the result of Duncan?
>>
>>53755065
I suck shit at layers.

i mean i suck shit at line highlighting too, but less so than layering
>>
>>53755065
Im new, whats a cool way I can highlight?
>>
>>53755065
Easiest way that doesn't look like garbage in most cases like drybrushing does.
>>
>>53755095
>Im new, whats a cool way I can highlight?
>Im new
Drybrushing
>>
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Sometimes you get a pose that just works
>>
>>53755065
It's partly due to Duncan and GW pushing the edge highlighting meme hard because it's easily taught to 12 year olds. The other part is lazy painters who think proper blending is >tooooo haaaaard
>>
>>53755146
Were you going to show us an example of that, or just saying?
>>
>>53755158
>Hating on a method that looks good

Blending makes everything look like pillow shading out of a cartoon
>>
>>53755146
The Custodes holding a scabbarded dagger looks weird.
>>
>>53755181
>t. low effort anon desperately trying to justify his slothful refusal to improve
Enjoy your Tron minis.
>>
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>>53755224
>t. 'high functioning' autist scoffs at normal people for not professing a deep affection for their favorite method of painting
>>
Does anyone know how to paint Crimson Slaughter? My red looks fine, but my gold/brass consistently looks like shit. Really muddied, or too bright.
>>
>>53755278
Well, gold -is- really bright compared to what we see passed for "gold" on miniatures most of the time. If you're having trouble with it looking muddy, try not to wash it too much. If you want it to be brass, but not be super bright, don't highlight it very much. Just do a tiny bit where it really needs to be. Otherwise, without pictures I can't really tell you anything else.
>>
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>>53755146
>mfw they removed challenges in 8E
>>
>>53755146
*swings dagger so fast i doesn't I don't need to unsheathe it to cut you in half*
heh... nothing personnel, witch...
>>
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>>53755158

This is the only blended paintjob I've liked. All other blending is either shit looking, because they did it by hand, and thus not worth the effort, or is too obviously airbrushed, and isn't even really blending but just lazy preshading.

Edge highlighting is not only easier and faster, but looks better at a distance, and also looks good in its own right, regardless of how "incorrect" it is. how many times you see lightning claws and power swords with the tips white hot? That's not how heat works either but people still do it. Or OSL eye lenses. marine helmet eyes don't glow.
>>
Has anyone here used the GW coloured spray paints and can you tell me if it's a primer or not?

I've heard that you need to go chaos black or some such first, then the base spray over the top, which feels a little like it's defeating the point to me so I'm curious what people's thoughts are.
>>
>>53755449

It's not a primer but you can use it like one if you want. Just treat it like a weak primer and don't use it on metal miniatures or scratch your miniatures with a fingernail like a retard to "test the primer" before sealing them.

>which feels a little like it's defeating the point to me so I'm curious what people's thoughts are.

Which is why those colored sprays are retarded. GW should have paid a little more and developed a proper primer formula with 100% color match, just like Army Painter. As is, it's better to just hand paint or airbrush GW colors over a real primer.
>>
>>53755449
It's not a primer however you can spray it straight over most models without ever using one though as it clings well enough to act as one in and of itself.
The undercoat is more to make sure you don't miss any bits and leave something without primer/spray.
>>
>>53754769
>>53755009

Weird, I searched GW TV Farsight Enclave but nothing came up.

Thanks anons.
>>
>>53747354

You do that by painting minis that you care less about.
IBuy a box of 5 marines that they sell, they are relatively cheap and paint them.
When you have done that find what you could have done better , stip them and paint them again.
Repeat as much as necessary.
After that, start painting your army.
>>
>>53754719
>are there any official guides
That is what you were meant to say.
>>
>>53755568

Sorry GN, just woke up at the time of posting that.
>>
>>53754923
I used Krylon when I started the hobby and they were fine, a while back Rustoleum bought them up. I can't speak for other Rustoleum paints but the "Painter's Touch" cans have a bunch of stuff on them about being fine and thin.

Honestly the only bad thing I've heard about normal person spray primer is that certain automotive primers are very difficult to strip off if you decide to redo your minis or buy a lot of the eBays or the Kijijis.
>>
>>53755568
>>53755627
But there's nothing wrong with saying it that way.
>>
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>>53755146
"Woah"- Keanu Reeves
>>
>>53755441
I don't have any problems with edge highlighting. My lament is when it's users neglect all other techniques.

I agree with you that edge highlights are great for helping minis pop from a distance. However I haven't seen any WHTV style tabletop standard model that wouldn't look better with a simple zenithal highlight. They just look too flat otherwise.
>>
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anyone that owns scarab terminators for 1ksons, can u tell how how big they are compared to regular terminators?
>>
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>>53756103
>>
>>53756145

Those are some big guys.
>>
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>>53756169
>>
>>53756169
>Those are some big guys.

Well, here ... have some little ones.
>>
>>53755449
I used the Macragge Blue spray the other day. Would still recommend a really light primer dusting. Let it dry then use the coloured spray
>>
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I'm trying to replicate standard Necron weapon energy glow with an orange colour scheme, but I'm having trouble getting the same effect. I've found the right colour for energy orbs and smaller vessels, but I can't find anything that works for larger weapons.

Does anyone have any suggestions or have a similar colour scheme?
>>
>>53756103

Please tell me that is an edit. I want to believe no one could possibly write dialogue this bad as anything but a joke.
>>
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>>53756685
Pic related is what I was going for.

He uses Caliban green over the whole weapon, then Warpstone Glow on the outside layer and finally Moot Green for the power source/lines/edges.

The furthest away staff (with black parts) was my first attempt at painting energy, then the nearest one was my attempt to replicate pic relateds methods using oranges instead of greens.

The middle one is the same as the nearest one, but instead I added a lighter orange for the entire weapon and used highlight instead. I want something that makes the energy stand out, but the yellow just seems really out of place.
>>
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Working on a fresh Rhino for 8th, how's it look so far?
>>
>>53756685
To be completely honest anon, the whole thing looks messy. Thin yer paints.
>>
>>53756768
First time painting anything so I'm still getting used to thinning and applying paints.
>>
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>>53747174
Anyone have pictures of the Custode sprues? Looking to see if I can hold the vexilla in the right hand and a sword in the left. If not, I'd like to see my options that aren't the shield

It's not for game purposes so I'm not worried about the legality of it, unless I can get away with the power fist with the flamer built into it from that Deathwatch guy
>>
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Stripping some older Termies I bought used at the Local Game Store...

They were primed black, Painted red, then painted tan. The arms had chainsaws and bolt pistols from regular marines, so I'll have to dig around the bit box...
>>
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>>53756858
I'm using a new cleaner i got from the dollar store. Since i haven't had good luck with Simple Green.
>>
>>53756831
Did you do any looking at all?
https://www.google.com/search?q=custodes+sprue&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjc-Iedw7fUAhUBMGMKHYBkANcQ_AUICigB&biw=1920&bih=916#imgrc=HT-FduGNM6FLZM:
Now I can never go on /a/ again because I spoonfed you, that's just the law.
>>
>>53756831
>Anyone have pictures of the Custode sprues?

Yes. Pic related.

>unless I can get away with the power fist with the flamer built into it from that Deathwatch guy

You mean Garran Branatar of the Salamanders chapter? That's an auxiliary meltagun, not a flamer.

>older Termies
>The arms had chainsaws and bolt pistols from regular marines, so I'll have to dig around the bit box.

Those look mostly like the metal Second Edition models. You used to be able to buy them in boxes of five, and then later they came in blisters one-at-a-time. I remember the big upset (What? Yet *another* GW price hike?) when they started selling the multipart plastic models out of the Second Edition Space Hulk game in the same sized box ... for the same price!
>>
>>53756757
that gold is streaky and just bad, it needs a better base layer and a more even coat
>>
>>53757004
>>53757017
Sorry, I'm not very big into 40k so I'm not familiar with what comes on sprues. With these pictures and the ones I've found it's hard for me to discern what I'm capable of doing with the set but I'll look at it some more. Thank you

Also
>/a/
You're not missing much anon
>>
>>53757129
According the the instructions, none of the Custodes can hold their sword in their left hand. Only the shield, dagger, or two handing the spear are options

Guess I get to fork out money for a spare power fist on ebay
>>
I'm trying to convert some electro priests since their heads are stupid looking. I was going to try some Stormcast Eternal heads for a Metropolis deathmask look. Does anyone know if the scale is alright? It's okay if they're a tiny bit bigger because it's kind of a helmet, I just don't want them to look ridiculous.
>>
>>53756757
Thick your paints
>>
>>53750509
Looks really good in my opinion but I would suggest using spare gaunts to test your schemes on so you can see how a full model looks.
>>
>>53757218

stormcast heads aren't actually very big, no bigger than the heads on my scions at least, so i imagine they would work well.
>>
So I have been following Painting Buddhas tutorial on how to paint Ultra Marines. He paints all the armor segments one at a time and keeps the recesses black to keep the contrast high. Thing is I am painting Blood Angels and am wondering if that would be a good idea? Should I prime/base my whole mini a dark brown and paint all the armor segments red to keep the contrast even from brown to orange? Or should I just paint the whole model red, wash it with Agrax then touch up after with more red?
>>
>>53757844

If you are painting bright red BA it follows the same principle. If you are painting dark red BA the contrast won't be as high, so it becomes less important.

I use the same principle but because I don't use a black primer, I simply use LOTS of Nuln Oil in my wash stage to achieve the same effect with the bold black lines.
>>
>>53757915
I go more so on the bright side, using Mephiston Red up to Troll Slayer Orange. But are you suggesting I keep the recesses black and use white on the very tips in some areas?
>>
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this ok for a first time build? all my other experience is with model airplanes
>>
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So its is finished I guess. Might file down some GS bit more but Im quite happy how it is at the moment.
>>
>>53758044

Looks good to me. The thing I like most about 40K is that the models are so much easier to build than the 1,000+ piece Armored Core and Gundam models I used to build.
>>
>>53757079
>>53757326
The gold is actually weathered and washed with Nuln Oil for a tarnished effect, sorry if the photo didn't show that right.
>>
>>53758219
thin your wash
>>
>>53756478
All I can think of is how out of place the Primaris are going to look next to everybody else once they start getting pictures next to Orks, Eldar, Nids, or basically anyone that isn't an old Marine or out of Dark Imperium.
>>
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Planning on finally making my nidzilla army, what's the quickest way to get my big nids to have a paint scheme like pic related, and an easy way to do glow effects?
>>
>>53758114
That heavy bolter feels like it's a bit too far off to the side, like it's almost inside the tracks.
>>
>>53758231
Noted. How's it look otherwise?
>>
>>53758293
a little edge highlighting and some drybrushing would go a long way. Base coat looks fine, but really can't see what's going on with all the rest of the paint under that wash.
>>
What do you guys do to get you in the mood to finish a project?
>>
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>>53757844 This anon again.

Painted it red then crushed the whole thing with Nuln Oil. Then I went back with the red. Still have a few corners to clean up but think this will make for a good dark contrast. Not sure if I prefer Nuln over Agrax however so will do up the highlights and see.
>>
>>53758535
Deadlines.
>>
>>53758535
Listen to Saxon and drink a beer.
If I need to get in the mood to DM, I listen to Rhapsody and drink several beers.
>>
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/wip/, I need cheap 28mm unarmored skeletons for terrain. Do you have any recommendations?
>>
Have they stopped making, GW Artificer Tint Set? I can't find it on the GW store and googling it manually only brings me to the german store.
>>
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>>53758279
Its not quite on top of the track but quite close. Also need to fix that bolter up a bit.
>>
>>53758835
Well I aligned bolter with middle peek hole and it looks better that way.
>>
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Deldar snake 2 electric boogaloo. Not sure whether to go up another highlight level on the scales, or if I need to darken the edge of the diamond patches.
>>
>>53758894
Shouldn't the belly scales be paler and shinyer than the rest?
>>
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>>53756781
Then you're punching above your weight class. Get the basics down first and learn how to handle a brush before you try the funky stuff. Try practicing on some spare bits or plastic spoons.
>>
>>53758942
Yes, Just base coated at the moment, doing the belly after the main scales.
>>
>>53758535
sleepycast and sleep deprivation.
>>
>>53758703
Seconding this.
>>
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Tried highlighting the legs not sure how to feel. Doesn't feel like I am getting good enough contrast and I am unsure which points I should drop some white paint on.
>>
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>>53747804
Plasticards ans sprues make for nice rusted walls and trench pikes. Not a great photo but you get the idea.
>>
>>53759169

It looks good. Highlighting further won't increase contrast, if you want contrast you need to darken the bottom levels. Easiest way is to carefully hit the cracks with another wash, harder way is to blend the armor down to dark red or black.
>>
>>53758044
I dont know how many times I broke mine. Like, 7 or 8 times before I just gave up and never glued the claws again. Nice paintjob by the way, I dig the old school scheme.
>>
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Still need to do some things. But not as bad as I expected for not painting anything in like 4-5 years. On top of using a wet palette for the first time.

Tell me what I am doing wrong so that I might get better and make Duncan proud WIPG.
>>
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With 8th almost out I figured it would be a good time to get back into 40k. Its been years since I've painted and those first ones werent too crash hot. I also learned I hate taking photos.
>>
>>53758114
doesn't look like it belongs to 40k, but other than that nice workv i guess
>>
>>53747365

Heresy!
How dare you mangle a DAngel?
>>
>>53752134
I like the look on them and I bet that some warriors would look really good with a similar take!
>>
>>53758967
I know I need to develop technique, I was just wondering if anyone knew if there was any way to get the effect I was after.

I've got some scarabs and spare parts that I can practice neater lines and thinner paints on, so I'll try that for a bit before trying the weapons again.
>>
>>53759567
Thanks. I personally dislike the way Chimera looks like and wanted a bit modern take on it.
>>
>>53753431
>>53753908

He looks like a pig in shit, i.e happy as fuck!
How easy would you say that the Poxwalkers are to convert? I might consider using some as marauders/forsaken for my fantasy nurgle Army.
>>
I'm looking for a good airbrushing guide. I'm a total noob regarding airbrush but I've been told they're pretty amazing. Can you help me anons?
>>
>>53759209

Your dudes look good, but for the love of the Emperor fix those awful lenses. Those huge fucking white dots look like they're all retarded.
>>
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Post some ice/snow bases.

I'm basing some snow nids and want to do something other than 'unload a pot of snow flock' but I'm not sure exactly what I want to do.

I might go with some lava and ice on the big bases as well.

Can't find any nid art so have a Solitaire clown slapping somebody's head off.
>>
>>53760439
A guy in store is basing a bunch of his guys on ice bases using crackle paint, they've turned out really nice.
>>
>>53758703

So these are cheapish, but you get 30 so its a pretty good deal. The problem is I cant find a place where they are instock

http://elementgames.co.uk/wargames-and-miniatures/wargames-and-miniatures-by-manufacturer/wargames-factory/myths-and-legends-fantasy-range-28mm-/skeletons-30
>>
>>53760492
I'll take a look, cheers.
>>
Since it looks like the guns and arms are attached, would it be sensible to spray and paint the arms separately for the Primaris, a. to actually access the Aquilla, and b. to actually be able to paint the reverse side of the bolt rifle and shoulder pads?
>>
>>53760492
>>
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>>53759169
>Tried highlighting the legs not sure how to feel. Doesn't feel like I am getting good enough contrast

You're talking about the legs, right? Looks good to me! I prefer the brighter Second Edition red of Blood Angels to the grim dark Mephiston-Red-washed-with-Nuln-Oil grunginess that GW currently has going on.

>I am unsure which points I should drop some white paint on.

I don't think that's the right direction to go. To make red lighter, you should move towards yellow, passing through orange on the way. On a model like this, I wouldn't expect to see white anywhere except highlights on gems or lenses, unit insignia, and things like tabards and purity seals.
>>
Is there a trick to painting eyes that I'm not aware of
>>
>>53760983
Yeah I have seen these in a few different tutorials, but never could find them in stock either.
>>
>>53761644
Yeah dont.
>>
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How can I obtain such a vibrant color?
>>
>>53761791
Photoshop
>>
>>53761791
I think he used blue paint.
>>
>>53761832
I think he used an airbrush, doesn't look very photoshopped
>>53761840
I think it's more azure than blue
>>
>>53761791
lighting goes a long way, but he's probably using some kind of ice blue as a final highlight/glaze colour

take a look at the hip/thigh plate versus the knee
>>
I've been working on my nighthaunt for a couple of weeks.
>>
>>53761644
if you have trouble placing the pupils and such cleanly try doing the whites and the pupil before you do the rest around the eyes.

>>53761791
I think what makes you say vibrant is how much contrast is in the painting.
Most people don't get that dramatic with their light.
On a miniature exaggeration looks better cause it reads easier in scale.

So whatever you are doing up the contrast to make it pop.
>>
>>53761940
Thank you anon, I think using a very light airbrush with a bit of light blue paint should do the trick.

Have yu tried looking at these for the eyes?
>>
>>53761940
>>53761984
And of course I forgot the link: https://www.jetpens.com/Sakura-Pigma-Micron-Pen-Size-005-0.2-mm-Black/pd/2042
>>
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Painting a bunch of Heavy Bolters for my OG Leman Russ tanks.
>>
>>53756757
Doesn't look very good. NEVER shade gold with a black wash.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=783slFWP61M
>>
>>53758703
Go on ebay, buy a bucket of vampire counts bits for 5$ and you're good.
>>
>>53759169
Looks great. It's going to look much better when you're done highlighting other parts. Just remember to be especially gentle when painting the helmet.
>>
>>53761791
It looks great but I just noticed a thick highlight on his face.
>>
>>53758293
primed. with some details. black is hard, and needs effort.
>>
>>53758810
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Citadel-artificer-tint-set
try searching tint, fuckhead.
>>
>>53761832
You know it's okay to be new, but calling other people's minis photoshopped just because you're insecure about your own skill isn't very nice, m'kay?
>>
Does anyone know if modern assault marine jump packs can be made to fit reasonably well on RT Plastic Marines?

I can't be fucked to get those shitty metal assault sculpts.
>>
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Was inspired by the anon that was going for a drowned / submerged look on his Genestealer cults and was thinking of applying a similar look to the new Deathguards.

How do I get that look as if they've been drowned and left under the sea for years?

Pic related taken from the crew members from Davy Jones' Crew in POTC3.
>>
>>53759264
I've yet to try attaching them. Gonna finish the paint first
>>
>>53747365
It wouldn't make sense for him to be squished before he's stepped on. He needs to be behind the foot, with a mold of the morkanaut's footprint around him.
>>
>>53763157
I'm pretty sure it's walking away from the camera...
>>
>>53762952
I think you can sculpt Cirripedia and other small details in with green stuff. Maybe you can use that trick with paper and glue to make fleshy growth. Then use a lot of texture paints to do the corrosion
>>
>>53758219
Washes aren't supposed to be used over flat surfaces. This is critical to understand.
>>
>>53747744
IF you honestly feel like your results are bad, do what I did when I was new.

Keep repainting and stripping the same few miniatures over and over until you improve. If you don't need to get them ready for playing a game, and don't have any pressure, just take it slow. You'll save yourself lots of work in the end. Nobody wants to finish their whole army and feel that by the time they get to the last miniature, they are starting to look decent, so now they have to redo the whole lot.

As long as you're just using acrylics, it all goes away with alcohol without harming the models, so go nuts.
>>
>>53762011
>giant line infront of the cannon.

Are you even trying?
>>
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I'm finally finished making these guys
Rate and critique please before I go put paint on them.
>>
>>53763371
Looks kinda like a dude on a horse
>>
>>53762952
If you want your mini to look like that the picture?
base rakarth flesh,wash 50/50 agrax earthshade/seraphim sepia, and maybe some coelia greenshade and drybush with a light grey followed by a small highlight of white?
>>
Weird question.

How do I seal candle wax?
>>
>>53763404
Oh come on the quality of the pic isnt that bad.
Its hard to take a picture of 10 horsemen
>>
>>53763430
With a little metal pattern thing you press into it called a seal

note: wax must still be melty or the seal won't work
>>
So what's 'ardcoat for?
>>
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Hey guys, please rate my 1st model.
>>
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>>53763248

Hmm, never sculpted before and never had any experience with green stuff but I guess I could try my hand at it.

I could just settle with a paint scheme that could project or recreate the look without the excess appendages or growth.

>>53763415

Thanks for that anon, will look to figuring out how to actually work that onto the minis. That picture is one of the inspirations along with the rest of the crew.
>>
>>53763571
looks okay could use some work
>>
>>53763571
>Hey guys, please rate my 1st model.

nice bait mate, this guy is on cool mini or not for about two years now.. . nevertheless insane work
>>
>>53763571
some sloppy parts, base is okeyish, solid 6/10
>>
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>>53763599
> this guy is on cool mini or not for about two years now

Bohun's been on Cmon since 2005 you dingbat.
>>
>>53763571
Its okay I guess. Thin your paints
>>
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>>53763641
guy's work's insane
>>
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>>53763668
>not posting his rubrics

A tastless pleb you are
>>
>>53763571
just reaches the tabletop standard
>>
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>>53763668
>>53763682
>not posting THE CUBE

You both lose.
>>
>>53763571
>>53763668
>>53763682
>>53763701
What is this, Bohun appreciation thread? I mean the guys a fucking genius, but let's not clog up the thread.
>>
What are people working on?

I got too many guardsmen to build and paint ffs.
>>
>>53763770
Some Blood Angel Terminators.

Just getting back into 40k things with 8E coming up, so I figured it'd make a nice change from my Flames of War and Dropzone stuff.
>>
>>53761832
if it was, wouldn't their skin and the mini's purity seal be pale?
>>
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>>53763770
Legion of the Damned army
>>
>>53764154
please don't freehand caution stripes

a little masking tape won't make them look like ass
>>
>>53758114
nice job my dude, I remember how terrible the first pictures were
>>
>>53764239
I like freehanding them.

It's fun
>>
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>>53762011
>>
>>53763701
Is that just paint?
>>
>>53755535
Becuase it's called Warhammer TV not GW TV
>>
New Duncan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzY45Fbni40
>>
>>53764300
No, it is also the blood of a thousand virgins. To get the talent, that is.
>>
>>53764300
yup
>>
>>53764300
That's entirely painted yes, Bohun is a master at his craft.
He doesn't do commissions anymore I believe, but his models were all works of art.
Not that I loved all of them, his style is a little busy on the eyes sometimes, but the technical skill involved is mind-blowing.
>>
>>53763371
Marauder horsemen? Also what is that bronze stuff
>>
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>>53763575

Another inspiration image. Would appreciate any help given.
>>
>>53763544
Making stuff shiny, and giving decals/transfers a smooth surface to bond on.

It's great for giving a shine to bottles of liquids, visors, stuff like that.
>>
I've decided to recast the gyrinx from the Triumvirate. What's a good non green-stuff casting method? I'm guessing two-part solution?
>>
>>53764455
Interesting, they're not actual "snap-fit" models, more like character models that assemble in very specific ways.

The fact the arms are separate gives me hope that once proper Primarine kits come, you can buy their arms and put them on there with alternative pads. I want to give mine MkIII ones for the extra beefiness. Maybe MkIII helmets as well.
>>
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Is painting metal models much different than plastic models?

I want to get an old vintage metal model of a Salamanders Chaplain to use with my army.
>>
>>53758114
It doesn't look awful, but like the other posters said it doesn't look particularly 40k. It's close though because it's got the right boxiness, the main issues imo are the exposed track wheels should either be covered or filled in. Right now their rims are too thin and detailed. Also the hatches next to the turret need to go and that weird round thing on the side. Otherwise slap a few aquilas on it and you're golden

Oh and the heavy bolter looks a bit funny pointing up at that angle, might wanna file that down a bit...
>>
>>53763571
Too messy, too much stuff going on. Less is more.
>>
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Working on this big fucker, tried to get a nice aged look on the bronze.
>>
>>53764582
I made valhallan rough riders out of marauder horsemen, the bronze stuff is P3 Brown/Aluminum stuff, its like greenstuff but better
>>
So what do you listen to while you paint?
>>
>>53764660

As long as you prime every part of the model, yes.
If you neglect priming, it'll chip later on.
>>
>>53764708

Looks fantastic, the skulls look amazing.
>>
>>53763478

Take a couple pics with one of the models at a time. Can't really see much for detail with a group pic.
>>
>>53764660
Prep is a bit more intense; knife alone won't do it for mold lines, you'll need files. Might want some GS or putty handy to deal with mold slips and any casting mistakes too.
>>
>>53764755

Same thing as any other time. Am I supposed to have special music?
>>
>>53764840
Montage music. Cuts your work time down to a couple of minutes worth of jump cuts.
>>
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>>53729406
Ayup lads, it's me again.
Been trying to do some work today. I want it to be busy, but I had to remove a bunch of my ideas because I tend to overdesign. From the top: basic positioning ideas. Found a mound of skulls from the Hellcannon kit in my bitz box, useful! The shield is going to get either one of those Chaos Warshrine sidings (trimmed to fit) as well as a bunch of different chains, and censers from the Deathwing Terminators kit.
The Automata will get some spiky bits and the Iron Warriors faceplate will be changed up a bit, adding parts of the "face" of a Khorgorath. I gave the Enginseer some armour from some Blood Warriors. The Watcher will be remade into an Icon Bearer, I removed the Necron bit and replaced it with one of the Khorgorath tentacles. Cybernetica Datasmith doesn't get much more except a tentacle to replace one of his servo-arms, extra armour and a spiky bit for his pauldron. Thoughts?
>>
>>53764772
even if you prime they will chip later without a good varnish.
>>
>>53747525

Looks really cool, anon.
>>
>>53763544
a glossy varnish. good over transfers, lenses, glass, and bits prone to chipping
>>
>>53763575
>Hmm, never sculpted before and never had any experience with green stuff but I guess I could try my hand at it.
>I could just settle with a paint scheme that could project or recreate the look without the excess appendages or growth.
Yeah I'd agree with the other anon.
A light desaturated skin tone like rakath flesh plus a number of washes should do the trick.
I'd only add to that that you should try doing the washes wet in wet to get to color variation in the artwork or do several passes of very thin glazes.

You can get some texture paste with various grain sizes to get the weathering as well.

If you want to try your hand at converting a few fishmen you could buy some of the familiar packs from reaper.
They are small enough you could use them as heads on certain miniatures. A deathguard terminator with an anglerfish face would look pretty amazing I imagine. All you'd have to do would be to put them somewhere, where a natural joint occurs like the neck of the armor or blend them into the bodies and use your weathering stuff to mask the transitions.

If you are into the whole cthullu/deep ones theme you could also check Deep Wars/Shadow Sea for useful miniatures to use as conversion fodder.

Cool idea in any case keep us posted.
>>
>>53764660
Just to add to what the others said, cleaning these with detergent is important, especially if it's a new one.
They are covered in talcum or other release agents if you get them new, so you need to clean them before you can prime them properly.
Once primed there is very little difference to a plastic model, aside from the fact that it feels pretty satisfying to plonk a model with weight on the table.
>>
I'm getting back into 30k/40k after a couple of years abscence and I think I've bitten off more than I can chew with my first project and need some help.
Does anyone have any suggestions for an easy way to scratchbuild bubble turrets, specifically Fellblade sized ones?
Converting preds was easy enough using ping pong balls, but the only method I've seen for a fellblade was a foam step + filler method which seems like way more work thean necessary.

Failing that does anyone know of a recaster who does the turrets seperately?
>>
>>53747525
Wtf i hate the emperor now
>>
>>53765281

Thanks for replying, anon. I'm new and it's only been two weeks since I started painting and assembling WH miniatures.

I understand the methods you and the other anon suggested but not sure if I could pull the colour coordination or variations off well.

Thank you so much for pointing me at Reaper and Deep Wars, some of these models look sick on their own and would definitely make the Deathguards pop if I could blend them well enough.

Unfortunately, I live in Asia so these models / pieces can be quite pricey. I'll look around for single bits on other sites until then otherwise I might put the idea on the backburner.

I'll definitely post up here if I make any purchases or attempts. Thanks anon.
>>
>>53765430
specialist art store or hobby shop in your area, doesn't necessarily have to be related, but just some place that may sell materials like plasticard, sometimes they'll have it.

A small model shop would be ideal I have one that's right down the street from my place, its a model train hobby shop but that's where i get most of my modeling supplies

and having a variety of shapes and sizes of plastics and metals foams specifically for models.

if nothing else it could give you ideas or tools for something else.
>>
>>53764247
Thank you good sir! It came out suprisingly nice.

>>53764667
Thanks for the criticism. I was battling with top side if I should keep the small hatches or fill them out to smooth out the top, not sure yet which one i should go for.

Also I agree on heavy bolter, ill try to file it down a bit.
>>
When and how do you guys find time to paint? How often do you paint your minis?

And on a related note, how do you stop Citadel paints from turning to liquid?
>>
>>53766384
>When and how do you guys find time to paint? How often do you paint your minis?
I'm just getting back into it, but I was most productive when I made it a habit to paint an hours or so every evening. You know, instead of watching tv or whatever else people do.
>And on a related note, how do you stop Citadel paints from turning to liquid?
I have a problem with mine turning to rocks. But as I said, I'm just getting back into it, so I'm dealing with several generations of GW pots that haven't been around in a lot of years.

The new paints I bought are all vallejo, or warpaint by armypainter.
The guys in the store said the armypainter stuff sells like crazy 'so it has to be good'.
We'll see how that goes. Anyway, after buying some vallejo colors a few years back I've made up my mind that whenever I buy paint I won't buy GW paints, because they are more expensive, have smaller pots and no shelf life.

What you describe sounds like the medium separated from the pigment. Try using a toothpick to stirr it back together or put an agitator of some sort in there before shaking the bejeezus out of it.
>>
>>53766384
I check my pockets, usually find some hidden down there in the corners
>>
>>53766384
I try to put in at least 1 hour of hobby time a knight, whether painting or assembling or whatever.
>>
File: IMG_20170611_191010.jpg (3MB, 3036x4048px) Image search: [Google]
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Me First Lizardman ever. Need some more practice.
>>
>>53766943
>1 hour of hobby time a knight
I spend a little more on my bretonians, but if 1 hour works for you...
>>
>>53766987

Looks fine mate, feathers are incredible.
>>
>>53747354
Every artist has 1000 bad pieces in them. For each mini you're unhappy with, be happy; you're one bad mini closer to getting those 1000 out of the way, and if you don't like the way it looks it means you know you can do better. Complacency is far more dangerous than discontent!
>>
>>53765953
Great call on the art shop, never even occured to me since I was focussing on hobby shops.
Found one that has 80mm hollow plastic balls (which even come in halves) that look like they'll do for what I need

>>53766384
Like the other anon I'm just getting back into it but I also set aside an hour a day, and turned my entire painting system into an assembly line method where I'd do one, or maybe two, steps per night depending on how involved it was.
>>
Anyone got the heat-stain effect on melta weapons... lost the image...
>>
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>>53767197

found it, just in case anyone else needs
>>
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>>53766987
>>
>>53767225
I feel like drybrushing some highlights on those feathers could add a bit more feather texture to them

but I'm also severely brain damaged
>>
>>53766987
>>53767225
I'm not a big fan of the metals and I think the inner leg could use some work. Other than that its pretty good.
>>
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How do I make this glassy effect like gas-filled orbs on pic related? Can I just put an 'ardcoat on them and call it a day?
>>
>>53767350
>>
>>53767350
It's just gloss varnish.
>>
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My violent gang of highly unpleasant space elves is done.

They're supposed to be Trueborn, as a result of their noble birth in their arrogance they don't hide their face with a helmet, they wear capes and golden pauldrons to indicate their high status.
>>
>>53747349
Buyer beware for Prince August, their stuff is tiny. Their minis haven't gotten larger like everyone else in the past 30 years. Also, make sure you're getting the pre-made minis. Prince August sells supplies to cast minis yourself. Its a lot of fun and I highly recommend it, but just an FYI.
>>
>>53767350
the white lines that look like upside down exclamation marks are painted on
the rest is just 'ardcoat
>>
>>53764894
Would probably switch the korgath bit with the mechadendrite on the watcher. When you remove the rest of the sword on the watcher, a drill will remove it best. Presonally not a big fan of the korgath head, maybe just graft the bigger horns onto the head?
>>
>>53767518
those are sweet
>>
Does anyone here know of a good european equivalent to simple green? I want to strip some mini's but they don't sell that stuff over here.
>>
>>53768280

Can you get Dettol? They have that in the U.K.
>>
>>53768280
Acetone
>>
I need ideas for freehand on a Thousand Sons Leviathan, Something that's not a variation on Ankh, scarab, Eye of Horus, or various cartouche
>>
>>53768280
Fairy power spray or dettol disinfectant. Personally found fairy better but it's a bit pricier
>>
>>53768397
Sacred Geometry
>>
>>53768360
>>53768403
not in the UK but we have dettol and fairy too, I'll try those.
>>
>>53768280
>>53768362
acetone is great for metal models.
It will dissolve your plastic minis though. So keep that in mind.

I go some pvc cleaner to clean plastics with.
But after a while I have to admit I just kind of gave up on that. It's not really worth the trouble unless you got an OOP kit.
>>
>>53768479
I used it a lot of times on plastic AND resin with no problems. At least give it a try anon
>>
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>>53768397
One of the Cult symbols?
>>
>>53768397
Heiroglyphic relief
>>
>>53768502
>I used it a lot of times on plastic AND resin with no problems.
If you use acetone like most people use paint strippers, i.e. submerging the mini in a bath and leaving it overnight, the next morning nothing will be left of your plastic miniatures.

At the very least with the plastics that GW and others tend to use.

If you load a toothbrush and scub away you can use it, but telling somebody that acetone is fine to use for plastics is either an attempt at trolling, malice or stupidity.
>>
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>>53759674
thanks, you've motivated me to try and nurgle up a chaos warrior to go with them!

>>53763770
you can do it, the end result will make it all worth it

>>53768280
I soak stuff in dettol, its pretty cheap and easy to get ahold of, at least here in the UK anyway
>>
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Using driftwood to make a scenic base for my Arkanaut Frigate. All still wip, only basecoats down on the model itself. Still need to build texture with slate and stuff when it arrives, but I think it has a good silhouette at least.
>>
>>53767350
Put down on layer of thick gloss varnish thats consistent all over, and leave it to dry fully. Then do the same again all over. The finished effect is that light refracts where the two layers meet, creating a bright reflection. Makes it look super shiny.
>>
>>53768472
>Sacred Geometry

Dark Angle Chapter of the Pythagoras Legion?
>>
>>53769319
that paint job is great and the driftwood would look great as a series of jutting rocks. Reminds me a lot of guns of icarus
>>
>>53769319
Maybe throw some cotton or something down on the base to look like it's above the clouds?
>>
File: Hill bark terrain scenery.jpg (4MB, 842x6180px) Image search: [Google]
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>>53769319
Nice. Are you going for a regular old grey/blue scheme or are you gonna do something more alien like black lavastone or something?
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