WIP WORK IN PROGRESS /WIPG/

Reposting from old thread:

>>53188244

Would any kind admech anons out their be willing to tell me the measurements for a kataphron battle servitor?

Been thinking of teching up some blightkings and running them as kataphrons for a dark mechanicum army but can't find any size details besides the size of he base. I don't want them to be too small.

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>>53188998
They make steel legion drab as a nice color, I think it'll be a lot easier to work with over a large amount of individuals than mustard yellow.

I used it on the pants and the bedrolls.

Any advise for making a Repressor? Besides a Rhino base obviously.

>>53187825
Still looking for suggestions. Someone mentioned an improvised splint using a lasgun, but given said gun's length the model would have to be awkwardly balanced on another object. Should I pursue the rifle idea further or go with the rings-and-rods splint?

>>53189543
Probably just the mk2 dozer upgrade on a rhino, with different pintle weapons and some fleur de lises. That extra cab on the top is the tricky part. I wonder what the top of a taurox would look like molded on?

>>53189543
What kind of advice? I mean, I suppose you could try mounting a chimera turret with the heavy flamer where the Rhino's cupola generally goes.

Or you could go whole-hog and use a Chimera with the turret on the forward cupola hole (that's generally covered up by the chimera's top bit) and then cut down the upper hull piece so it fits behind the turret and finally convert the lasgun array ports into firing slits.

>>53189634
I guess just getting the shape right. That extended cab

>>53188979
First for thread theme song:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8cqzAUsArM

>found a box full of acrylic paints
>at least a few years old; paints have separated
>bottle, not tube
Are these reusable at all, or are they fucked/going to fuck up my Skitarii if I try using them?

Also, was thinking of trying for a dark blue or green for their cloaks and possibly a gold or bronze for the metal bits; what would be good complimentary colors for all the details?

>>53189758
Those are some surprisingly articulate orcs.

>>53189852
Yeah they will be really T H I C C so using an clear acrillic 'base' instead of water might be a good idea. Real art stores have that stuff. Pretty cheap, way cheaper than new GW paints.

If it's really really old, then it might be gritty, that's pretty much unfixable, but I'd still use in on terrain and such.

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I'm almost done painting Krell after all this time. I'm just waiting for the 'ardcoat that I painted on the corners of the base to dry so that I can paint the edge brown (it's a resin base and the paint was rubbing off of the corners from handling).

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>>53189852

bro you cant use acryllic paints on warhammer minis.... well you can but itll look shit

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>>53189852
>Forgot to read second part.
I have a really neat color wheel app that lets you pic several colors and see all sorts of bizzar elaborate patterns that artist use behond just regular 'the one across'.

>>53189993
Hmm. I'd been led to believe that they were fine as long as they weren't tube acrylics (as they have a different composition to pot acrylics). What's the best off-brand paint so I can swing by Hobby Lobby tomorrow? Fuck if I'm buying anything Citadel that isn't named 'Nuln Oil' or 'Agrax Earthshade'.

>>53190001
Thanks m8, checking that out now.

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>>53189529
I hate what they did to Stormtroopers.

I can forgive the plate mail.

I can forgive the Taurox.

I can't forgive them being turned into glory-hungry Space Marines wannabes.

>>53190067
>>53190001
Follow up to this: can you link directly to the app? This fucking 1990s layout on their website is giving me a blinding headache

>>53189993
>bro you cant use acryllic paints on warhammer minis.... well you can but itll look shit
Are you retarded? Citadel paints are all acrylic.

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any suggestions on how to go about bejeweling a deathwing Thunderhawk

>>53190436
Buy a Bedazzler I guess.

>>53190436
>bejeweling
explain

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>>53190474
lots of extra icons...

>>53190467
Bedazzle might be better term (PS not good at photoshop)

>>53190538
Emblazon.

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Getting closer to finishing Alarielle now (if we completely ignore her wings and the giant beetle she rides).
stuck trying to decide on colours for the spear at the moment

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>>53190067
>What's the best off-brand paint so I can swing by Hobby Lobby tomorrow?

You can't buy decent paint for tabletop miniatures games at Hobby Lobby. They don't sell that kind of product there. The squirty paint bottles you'll find at places like Hobby Lobby and Michaels, characterized by the ones seen on the right in this picture, are not good for much besides painting large pieces of terrain.

You *can* get a decent deal on brushes, provided you buy their higher-end product one at a time with a significant discount (40% or more). Just inspect the product carefully before you lay down yer hard-earned green: the open stock brushes are the best they have, but not being sealed in a package also means everybody else that got there before you had a chance to ruin them with goobers from their greasy fingers ... and stores like that don't pay their employees enough to care.

Once you get good at painting - and have likely ruined a bunch of the brushes you got from Michaels - you'll probably want to spring for some better, more expensive brushes to use instead.

>>53190538
You get a shitload of icons in the plastic sprues.
FW may still be selling their icon packs. If you got the cash to buy a Thunderhawk you can buy their resin icons or brass etched stuff too.
The other stuff you put on there in photoshop you can either just freehands, or if you are not comfortable with that invest in some decal paper, measure the parts you want to add symbols to and then prepare a decal sheet with the right measurements in a software of your choice before printing your custom decals.

>>53190593
ACHSHUALLY, my HL has a decent Vallejo rack. I would suggest swingign by the modelmaking section; at worst, they'll have Model Masters (a decent acrylic line).

>>53190586
>stuck trying to decide on colours for the spear at the moment
dunno, I'm getting mixed messages.
The orange and red look like autumn colors, so that would have been my first thought.
The blue works for generic magic hoodoo though, so you could just make the spear match the sword or whatever she is carrying.

You can of course just use the metal colors you used on her before too.

>>53190593
>most of the paints in the box are apple barrel
wew lad
guess I'll check for a modelling section per >>53190624 and shell out for citadel or army painter if I don't get lucky

>>53190102
As long as you ignore the stupid new fluff they're not bad. I actually like their models, though the monopose special weapons are obnoxious. Their rules are pretty trash though. Here's hoping 8th ed freshens them up.

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>>53190624
>my HL has a decent Vallejo rack

I'll be darned. I get special deals from Michaels (where I buy most of my brushes and also pic related) all the time ... maybe I should check out the Hobby Lobby they just built down by the new Costco. They've never had anything but artsy-craftsy paints at the other locations I've been to, but I admit it's been a really long time.

>>53190889
Make sure to spam their 40% off coupon when you're in there; they mark up the prices of their higher ticket items. If you don't, you might be overpaying.

>>53190968
>they mark up the prices of their higher ticket items. If you don't, you might be overpaying.

I never walk into those places without at *least* 40% off. Sometimes they get sneaky, though, and put the things I want on sale while they offer me a greater (50-60%) discount, though, which means the coupon won't apply.

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At $16.50 (plus shipping), this is more than I would pay, but ... please tell me one of us elegan/tg/entlemen won this!

>>53191708
The lack of detail just kills it for me.

>>53189571
I personally would use something flatter than the pole. And youd need it on both sides of the legs. Greenstuff it maybe? If thats not an option just cut them from sprues.

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Rough wip of my scout sentinel. Not sure where to add more color to his legs to break it up. Should I even add more color the legs?

>>53192620
I think it looks fine as it is, you don't need to add any more colours.

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>>53189971
done

>>53190586
What color blue is that?

>>53192895
p3 coal black + p3 Meridius blue + white

Does anyone have know if headswapping Sisters of Battle works out? I know that the heads are sculpted on, and I am wondering if hacking them off and replacing them with wood elf heads or something would work out. I don't have a huge issue with the SOB models outside of their faces, which are pretty bad.

>>53190624
The thing I hate about Model Master is that their bottles are a real pain to get open when the paint around the neck dries. They're an alright brand although I don't feel like they have quite the desired pigment density for miniature figures, though your mileage may vary on that. I used to use MM a lot when I was into custom action figures.

>>53192850
I think it looks rad as heck.

Only thing I'm not sold on is the red on his cape there.

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My collection is mostly base coats and shades finally doing some hilighting

>>53193031
It's supposed to be blood stains. Might have looked a little better if I'd mixed in some brown.

>>53191708
Wow thats a bit much. I scored a johnny and another oop marine for $11 total on the bay of E.

>>53193120
yea, going for a darker almost brown red would have made it look much more like faded blood.
If in doubt just look at a fuckload of reference pictures.

>>53191708
I bid on it but it went just a bit too high for me, I want me a freaking johnny

>>53193112
They look amazing. Great bases as well.

>>53193293
Khorne Red is the darkest red I've got. I mixed it with a lahmian medium and water to get that effect. I could probably fix it by mixing some lamian medium and dryad bark and painting it over as a thin glaze.

Getting ready to start Talons of the Emperor box, any advice on assembly for the kits? I know the tanks inside and out but I've basically never even looked at the Custodes or SoS kits.

>>53193725
couldneedsomewashesorshades/10

>>53192620
Add maybe some little bits of rust here and there to add some contrast?

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>>53193725

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One anti armour rifle team is assembled.

>>53193716
Update: No I'm not. Just found out they're not 8e compatible and my local GW agreed to refund me. Gotta say, pretty rad that they answered my message at half past midnight within a couple minutes.

>>53188979
I want to use SHAR'TOR from FW as a Daemon prince.

The musculature of his back makes adding wings problematic

Any ideas on alternatives or solutions?

Is the production date of the paint listed somewhere on Citadel paints? I just got a bunch from eBay and some of them seem chunky.

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Working on this guy right now. Been getting back into painting after about a 10 year hiatus.

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>>53192850
>>53193031
>>53193120
>>53193293
>>53193463
I went over the red stains with a thin glaze of dryad bark. Really digging how it looks now. This is basically what I was going for.

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So I ordered some paints and other modelling supplies, among them a pot of nuln oil and agrax earthshade

However when my package arrived i found that both of the washes were labeled as GLOSS like pic related

Is there a noticeable difference between the regular washes and the gloss ones that I got?

The company i ordered from has pretty good customer service so getting this sorted out shouldn't be too big of an issue if need be

>>53194472
I didn't even know they made glossy versions of shades.

>>53194537
me neither

apparently because I'm an idiot i just copy pasted in the first result for nuln oil from their product spreadsheet since the order was placed right before GW allowed stores to show their products, the first result was for the gloss version so I ended up placing an order for the gloss versions without noticing so I'm stuck with them it looks like

>>53194472
You don't want to use the gloss. It's horrible, anon.

Use glossy washes only on small surfaces made to look like glass, or oil. Best order the regular washes as well before it ruins any of your models.

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I completed my Guard commander today, the rest of the command squad is coming along nicely.

>>53194676
what about metallics in general
my army uses leadbelcher for their primary color would it work then?
could i cancel out the glossy effect with a matte varnish?

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WIP genestealer cultists. I still need to clean them up, do highlights on everything, wash the steel parts etc.

I painted them as miners ( Hence the faded hi-vis Orange safety clothing). What do you guys think?

>>53194864
Looks pretty good. The colors remind me of Goku

>>53189993
All the big paint ranges we use for miniatures are acrylic anon.

You're thinking of the thick stuff with tubes that people use for canvas work, those are acrylic too.

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>>53193725
Thin yo...
Get out GET OUT GEETOOOUUTTT
REEEEEEEEEEE
>>>/mlp/
>>>/out/

>>53194320
*sharts pants*

>>53189543
One of the Based-Chinamen still sells them... if you're into that kinda thing.... I think.

>>53190586
Maybe the spear is carved from the same wood that all of your dryads are made from? So the same boney white and blended red edges to the blades. As if it was an oil/paste made the the sap/leaves.

But it probably has to be blue.

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Trying to Summon the Nurgle Painter here,
I want to know how he painted his demon army, with all those multi-colour shades.
Are they all just washes? I want to know for another project I am doing.

>>53194419
Not bad, Anon. Not bad.

You've got the basics down, now work on them and improve. Some of the shading/highlighting is a bit harsh and the metallics are a bit basic, but your brushwork is sound. Maybe look in the Op post for some guides and see if there's anything you can gain from those?

>>53194968
Are you ok anon?

Tried to make my necron purple as a test for some immortals/deathmarks I have coming in to make a SW killteam.

Anything I can do to improve it? Is it too gay? I thought using Druchii Violet and Drakenhof instead of nuln/agrax would make them a little different but maybe its too far from metal looking

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Working on hammering out the colour scheme for my incubi (Normal kabalite on the right). I need to clean up some of the highlights for sure when i do the actual incubi any other thoughts?

Scheme for the kabal is bone primary, blue and orangey red as my secondary and tertiary respectively.

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>>53195215
forgot pic

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>>53195225
go deeper.
Also there is a site that sells different coloured plastic tubes for the guns, the purple one is great.

>>53195248
Already ordered a few purple tubes from ebay for a couple dollars, the green one isn't glued in. Is there anyway to convert the gauss blaster the immortals have to use tubes without too much trouble?

>>53195221
Christ realized how shit everything looks close up in photos.

>>53194864
The colours are good choices. Don't forget face details like those teeth, eyes, and those tubes that go to their noses.

>>53194864
>>53194968
I'll translate anons autistic fit for you.

> genestealer anon, your paints are way too thick. Especially the blue chitin, and the crevices of the face. Use two coats next time instead of one thick one.

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>>53195281
Relax, models always look better irl. Just acknowledge it and use it as a tool for spotting things you can improve.

>>53195066
The main flesh colour is done with a wash, yes. I start with CMYK base colours like the pic, highlight with white then wash once with a combination of different colours. Washes are subtractive, they get darker with every layer, which is why I try and just do one wash with multiple colours to keep the colour bright and also why I use CMYK primary colours as my base. After that there are a bunch of smaller layers of yellow, red, dark blue to create shadows and bruising and layers of bone, blue and white to lighten bits that go too far.

>>53188979
Can we include this in the OP?
I feel there needs to be a guide on sealing your miniatures.
http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/09/liquidtex-matte-varnish.html

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>>53195262
hmm i always thought you just painted the gauss guns do they have green plastic in them too?

>>53195525
everything I've seen they're painted, but the unit has yet to come in the mail so I dunno if it would be easy to snip the other tubes out and glue the purple acrylic things in

I like this pic tho, what I was thinking for my killteam

>>53195403
genius, would you mind posting a completed or any shot you have of them so I can have it saved if you dont mind.
When i saw them i always thought it was nurgle done right, I am so sick of just seeing beige and green

>>53195525
metal ones do. I assume the plastic ones are similar in size you could slot in whatever you like.

>>53194419
Good for you, m9. I've been back into this for a year now, and I was away since I was about 16, so 12 years. Slowly improving, watching a bunch of youtube videos and practice like your life depended on it.

>>53195403
Not that anon, but can you post a picture of the finished work?

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>>53195535
oh is this what you meant replacing it with the rods?

>>53195572
exactly

>>53194537
They're actually nice. You can mess about with gloss varnishes, gloss washes and then matt varnishes to produce some cool results.

This video shows you how it looks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=9&v=N6OIQNbmzEo

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do you like first miniature?

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>>53193980
Would probably look better if the bipod was holding onto the barrel.

>>53195597
There's not even any plastic under that. Either that or you have GIANT HANDS

>>53195651
Good point. Cant find proper arm for it tho.

>>53195668
It's cork, some Brazilian kid carved it.

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>>53195541
>>53195565
Thanks. Not the same guys but painted with the same method. Posted these probably a little too many time. It just takes a little thought as to which washes to use over which base colour to get a nice variation.

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Asking for some opinions on a kitbash. Doing a scourge themed DE army, and trying to figure out what i want to do with my incubi. Currently using incubi chests for the weapons (goddamn I'd kill for a plastic kit) and scourge legs and heads. The main sticking point I'm having is whether or not to use the incubi trophy racks or wings. So far I'm only using feathered wings for my scourges just as a style choice I'm just not really a big fan of the bat wings personally, but i feel like it might be a nice contrast for my archon's body guard.
So my options are:
1.Incubi Trophy racks, scourge heads
2.scourge bat wings and heads
3.scourge feather wings and heads
4.scourge wings wings and incubi heads
5.scourge bat wings and incubi heads
6.Incubi Trophy racks, incubi heads

My only issue with using any of the scourge wings is how it will read on the tabletop, as DE don't have a melee jump inf (GW please) and it might be confusing for opponents.

P.S. Sorry for the potential wall of text I post so infrequently I can never tell what the formatting is going to turn out like.

Does anyone have any experience with applying NMM techniques using true metallic paints? Does it work?

>>53196374
>The main sticking point I'm having is whether or not to use the incubi trophy racks or wings.
I don't think Incubi can fly. So while I get that you may want to carry the theme over you can do that with a headswap like you already did.
I think it's always nice to have some variety, so I'd just go with the trophy racks and forget about the wings.

Seems like it might cause some WYSIWYG confusion.

>>53195221
>>53195281
I responded before but forgot to actually say I like your scheme. The deep blue is great, stick with it. I like the bone, but I think the blue feet don't quite work, I know you're going for a uniting element but they make his legs look a bit stumpy. I'd make him all bone but give him a single blue arm maybe, a bit of asymmetry is usually good for a scheme.

>>53194736
I unironically love it.

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>>53196478
>>53196771
Thanks for the input I'm definitely going to test paint some arms and see if I like it. Another thing I've been tossing around is what colour I want to got with for my succubus/archon, The incubi are obviously going to be a bodyguard unit like they're supposed to be. The incubi WYSIWYG argument was what i was leaning towards initially but She's going to have wings guaranteed, I hope GW allows them to take scourge wings Ala Autarchs in 8e but i'm not holding my breath.My initial thought was the base colour scheme of bone with the blue wings like my normal scourges, or perhaps flip it and go with my incubi colours for the Armour and bone wings, my roommate suggested going with the tertiary colour of red (something like the Kabal of the flayed skull) and making her stand out even more but i feel like that might make her a little disjointed with the rest of the army.

I want to paint some Blood Ravens, but I also want to experiment with the army painter dipping method

Most BR guides suggest Khorne Red as the base, but will that dull down too much if dipped in strong tone?

What might be a good alternative?

>>53196052

How did you do those bases anon?

>>53197024
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e4nCScpgDhA

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Aha what the fuck

>>53197298
Don't forget about war ter.
https://youtu.be/DJ9w9J7gfJI

>>53193725
Fucking kill yourself

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Just painted up my chapter master, bust still feel like he needs something.

>>53197580
Fucking sideways bullshit. I've got some Imperial Fist etched brass on order for his standard as well.

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>>53197331
This didn't work did it?

>>53197580
Looks nice, what chapter is it? It's looks like Crimson Fists or Ultramarines?

>>53197580
>>53197587
>Imperial Fist
his fist is yellow but he looks like an ultramarine. I'm a little confused by that.

That aside I think you really have a compositional problem atm.
The most interesting point is his left claw, cause it's the brightest and a contrasting color.
If the fist was blue and his helmet yellow the eye would be draw to his helmet instead.

You can solve that problem by pushing the contrast of the highlight on the helmet further, so that the wreath and the details of his faceplate become a high contrast area.

the banner might also help alleviate the overall blueness.

Something I'm also not sure about is the base. You have tons of negative space on your base that is essentially empty. There could be a second dude standing there for a diorama or something. If you want a huge base like that at least fill the space with something. Maybe add some plastic card strips as trim under the stairs a or some rivets. Or maybe even some freehand lettering.

DL;DR: try to make his helmet the focus. Right now the yellow powerclaw is the visual point of interest.

>>53197623
Ultrafist

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>shading light sources
>highlighting fire instead of reverse-highlighting it

>>53197609
>upload date
Come on now

>>53197298
>Aha what the fuck

What? They're not called Citadel "Grabba Stix?"

>>53197298
GW tools mainly exist so they can keep only selling their own products in the stores. The price probably comes from not really having the facilities to produce them efficiently.

That, the fuck.

>>53197915
> The price probably comes from not really having the facilities to produce them efficiently.
All their tools are made in china and are most likely rebranded cheap chinese tools.

>>53197915

The first part's right, but:

>The price probably comes from not really having the facilities to produce them efficiently.

Aha no, it's plain old price gouging of people who are either ignorant or shopping elsewhere would be inconvenient.

No forgiveness for buying them from the webstore though.

>>53197953
Which still makes the tools a special case since their other manufacturing is done at their own factories. It's not about the quality of the tools, but the fact that they have to order them from someone else.

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>>53198036

It really, really isn't. It's just >>53198012, price gouging. Nothing wrong with it, just business.

For example, as far as I'm aware they haven't taken paint manufacturing in-house (used to be supplied by Coat d'Arms, no idea who now) and yet those are nearly reasonable compared to competitors. They just know that on sundries, some people will give them daft money so it's worth stocking a few.

It's getting worse too, previously the glues were extortionate but at least you got a decent sized bottle with a nozzle (or a small brush for a bit) that you could assemble a miniature with. Now you literally get poundshop/dollarstore tubes that are awful to use, I can't imagine buying a £95 Knight and trying not to drizzle glue all over it.

>>53198036
>but the fact that they have to order them from someone else
lmao that barely costs any money for gw, especially for shit like glue and knives. They just do an insane markup because parents and people with brand loyalty will buy it up.

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Shas'O, this is Darkstrider. I'm in front of the disposal facility.

>>53198462
the highlights on the top of the gun could stand to be a bit thinner and overall he looks sort of shiny, could do with a dullcoat

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>>53198305
>I can't imagine buying a £95 Knight and trying not to drizzle glue all over it.

This stuff does pretty well, although it's absolutely useless for metal models (duh!) like the old Vindicare standing next to it. Also, you can see on my paper palette where I've joined the exclusive club of /WIP/ morons who've spilled their Nuln Oil/Agrax Earthshade/Devlan Mud. Guess I know what I need to buy on my next trip to the FLGS...

>>53198506
Noted, thank you. Is it good? Pose, wall, colours, good camo, good eyes etc?

>>53198545
Dunno man. I think that Jumppack would look better on Tau or even IG Jump Troops.

Space Marines are pretty strongly connected to their armor designs, it's kinda weird to see something that doesn't even vaguely uses the same shapelanguage.

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Here's a very brief attempt at digital-camo on my Orks.

You can see in the background my possible favourite Ork model of all time, what will be the Nob of the gang.

Other Orks somewhat out of focus but you get the idea..

>>53198532

Yeah, I just meant with those particular cheap tubes, where pressing down on them just creases the soft metal and splurts out a random amount.

I always use superglue personally, just regular Loctite with a nozzle, don't really see the point in bonding stuff permanently with polycement, the way even large kits are produced today I don't think they need such strong bonds. Wish I hadn't done it to my first Marine army I'm in the process of stripping, be much nicer if I could simply snap the old arms off.

>>53198664
Man. I love your colorchoices on these.
Two thumbs up. Great stuff.

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The one on my right is my 5th models and one on the left is my first.

I think I am starting to improve, but I think I need to get some proper lights to help during the actual painting.

>>53199127

Open the curtains too, daylight is the easiest way

>>53199127
Forgot to ask, any advice or anything from someone starting out? I have mostly been using Dark Reaper minatures while waiting for some 40k stuff to ship in living in the middle of no where makes this hobby fun with citadel paints

I have been looking through the guides and stuff, but sometimes its good to get someone else's opinion too.

>>53199162
Generally work during the day so the time I do have to paint is typically at night.

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Ub... glub... blorp ...

I love the old classic Brother Hamilton model, but there is so much paint blobbed on this guy that I'm worried there could be a shitty recast underneath all of it. No detail is visible at all! Maybe I'd better pass.

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So I bought some blue stuff in order to turn the multibuild Warhammer Fantasy kits into two sets.

What is the best substance for casting in this?

>>53188979
Do you guys support this 1d4 article, or should I ignore it?

https://1d4chan.org/wiki/WIP

>>53198604
FUCK....I agree though, I bought them because they looked cool on their own, but I was not sure how I felt about them on my space marines.

waiting for the jump packs from Anvil Industry at the moment though.

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I started on my Krieg test model today. It's very WIP (only thing approaching done is the green) but I am happy with it so far. Thoughts (besides build a lightbox)?

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>>53195541
>>53195066
Starting some new plaguebearers. Might take these pics for every step and make a mini guide because I've been asked how to do it a few times. Just done the first wash on all of them and some shading on the left 4 guys.

>>53197028
Vallejo black lava texture paint applied sparingly. Base white. Agrax wash all over, paint in some smears of guilliman blue while it's wet. When dry, sepia wash all over, smear in some bloodletter glaze and a few dots of nuln oil while still wet. Highlight with a bone colour of your choice.

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Show your battlestations!
Here is mine, is just cleaned it so it's nice and tidy

>>53193725
My brother /)

>>53193112
Very nice.

Marines are a good model to learn painting with because they have lots of flat surface. Ther're designed to be noob-friendly, but there is still a fairly good sized ceiling for how much you can put on them if you want to get creative or show off.

>>53199978
>Might take these pics for every step and make a mini guide because I've been asked how to do it a few times
I would like that very much. I attempted to replicate what you wrote, but I didn't completely understand it, so I messed up the two attemptive nurglings.

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>>53191708
>>53193325
Some bloke in Bristol is selling them for £30 a pop. He's got one left

152537773512

What kind of drill should i get for gun barrels and is there a particular size thats a goos universal?

>>53198664
I love how this looks and id love to try something similar in the future, you gotta show some more pics

>>53199978
Man you are an inspiration for nurgle daemons I'd love to see how you make that magic work.

So I'm looking to make an active attempt to start painting my models for the first time in sixteen years.
The goal is to have two fully painted Protectorate of Menoth lists and take them to a major convention, but I'm running into some problems and I could use some advice.

1) How the heck do you guys decide on a color scheme and stick with it? I've changed my mind at least four times after my test models end up not looking great. I'm trying to decide between:
-Grey armor with red trim, red cloth, and gold details
-Black armor with gold trim, red cloth, and red details
-Red armor with black trim, white cloth, and gold details
-Purple armor with gold trim, white cloth, and silver details

2) Which line of miniature paints would you recommend? And when should you get new paints and brushes? I have a lot of the older Citadel paints and I'm trying the new ones along with P3 and Army Painter. When I try paint with the Citadel paints (old or new), the paint is super runny even after mixing. And even when I try and paint multiple layers, I feel like I'm leaving a lot of brush strokes.

3) How so you guys stay motivated to paint? I've been trying to paint at least one infantry model a day, but between work, exercise, certification exams, and other parts of life, I'm having a real problwm sticking to that schedule.

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>>53200457

Good catch! I bookmarked this yesterday, but neglected to mention it here.

They block 4chan at work, but not eBay.

>>53200947
>How do you guys pick a color scheme?
Learn color theory. None of the examples you give sound particularly bad (though mixing gold and silver in the same scheme may or mat not be dubious).

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>>53200486
>What kind of drill should i get for gun barrels

As cool (or inconsequential) as you think it is, do *not* buy the pin vise with collettes on both ends like the one in this picture. Instead, get one that has a turning metal or plastic handle. The palm of your hand will thank you.

>and is there a particular size thats a goos universal?

Aw, ya had ta ask... I have half-a-dozen drill bits that are all the same size, and all work well in bolt guns, but I can't be sure of the size. I don't want to tell you the wrong thing, but they're pretty small; in the picture, it's the drill bit that is actually the one in the pin vise rather than laying on the desk behind it.

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My college was giving out these shitty blinkers for night time safety shit, so I took it apart and stuck it in a contemptor.

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>>53201330
>get one that has a turning metal or plastic handle

So, to be clear, the top one, *not* the bottom one.

>>53197331
I think that's an April fool's joke

>>53201330
Different anon here. Though I've used a pin vice in the past I've only ever tried drilling the whole on the barrel of a boltgun once before which ended for me with pretty shitty results but luckily nothing a bit of glue could fix.
Is it me with just shitty shaky hands that messed up or is there a more reliable way in drilling a hole in the barrel without cracking it open like an egg?

>>53201483
We're you pushing really hard on the drill? You just apply a light pressure and keep it straight. For larger things, you drill small to make a guide line, and then move up to a larger bit.

>>53201483
>is there a more reliable way in drilling a hole in the barrel without cracking it open like an egg?

Before you start with the drill, use the sharp tip of your hobby knife to dig a shallow nick in the solid end of the barrel. If you put this dimple in the right place (the middle is almost always the best spot), it will "guide" the drill bit and keep you from ripping your bolter apart.

>>53201536
It's been a while since I messed up that last gun and I haven't tried again since but Im sure it was just me doing a bad job and being impatient

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>>53201362

That could end up looking super cool!

>>53201613
I hate myself for not thinking of this.
Thanks anon, I'll give it another try when I got the time.

>>53201613
Not him but a related question; if I reconstruct a damaged boltgun barrel using green stuff, can I drill it after its cured or will it fall apart when drilled?

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>>53200947
>I've been trying to paint at least one infantry model a day, but between work, exercise, certification exams, and other parts of life, I'm having a real problwm sticking to that schedule.

Grown-ups with responsibilities will always have problems like this. It comes with the territory ... but so does the paycheck!

Are you actually painting an entire infantry model from start to finish in a day, or are you taking some kind of average over a week or month? In WH40K, at least, infantry models normally come in *squads*. Would you consider setting out several similar models and painting all of them at once? Since models from the same army typical share like colour schemes, it might be less frustrating to break it out this way.

For example, here I'm painting six models simultaneously. So, I go through and paint all the red parts. By the time I've put the red on the last model, the first one is dry, so I can do all the black parts ... then all the green, all the brown, and so on. No, I won't be done with a single model in a day, but over the course of a week or so, I could have half-a-dozen ladz completed by the time all the colours have been applied.

>>53195597
Finally someone who gets it. If you thin your paints too much everyone in the gaming club will think you're a poorfag trying to save money. I try to use at least $5 worth of paint on each of my minis because it shows that I am a serious war gaming enthusiast who isn't afraid to invest in my craft seriously.

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>>53197298
I got a pair of tweezers for free with a headphone jack repair kit I bought recently.

My favorite tweezers though are my tweezer/shovel combo. Perfect for basing.

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>>53198532
I used to use that glue for a long time but my bottle's nozzle kept clogging up and I grew frustrated with it. I bought Revel's cement and he applicator is god-tier in terms of precision, and if it gets clogged you can clean it with a lighter or match because it's metal.

>>53200947
>1) How the heck do you guys decide on a color scheme and stick with it?
The test model is always the hardest and longest part, but in the end you've got to like one of the schemes more then the others, and/or one of those schemes is much easier to paint then the others.

>2) Which line of miniature paints would you recommend?
I'm happy mostly with Vellijo dropper bottles. Their not all perfect, and you'll need a pallet of some sort, but your not likely to see the paint pot dry up because of an overly long painting session. I've also started to use Liqutex mediums, might help resurrect some of your old paints, maybe...

>the paint is super runny even after mixing
Did you put a primer on your models? PP's new plastics are not great at holding a lot of paints.

>3) How so you guys stay motivated to paint?
Batch painting might save you some time. Not necessarily a whole squad at a time, but then you'll cycle though less paints each night, and can focus on specific details.

>>53199722
>https://1d4chan.org/wiki/WIP
We have a fucking 1d4 article? Since when?
Jesus, that's the most memeless 1d4 article I've seen too. Needs more Johnny ASAP.

>>53201779
That really depends on how your reconstructing it and which way the drill is going through the material. But if it's that extensive, you could always just put a pin in the barrel and reconstruct around that, then pull it out once it's cured.

>>53194430
Oh, yeah thats way better now. Awesome work. Really dig the effect on his horns.

>>53199708
I've heard greenstuff is the best to use in this stuff (resin heats as it cures which can cause the mold to lose details.) Obviously don't use greenstuff from gw, but a similar two part putty (one guy on here used greenstuff and milliput, but I don't know the mixture they used.)

>>53198532
>>53202071

Here's a protip I know you fucking mongoloids won't listen to: STOP USING RETARDED PLASTIC GLUE

doesn't even work on resin

doesn't even work on metal

runs all over the place, which actually isn't a problem, but BY YOUR OWN ADMISSION i already know you faggots have zero glue control

Just buy a fucking high quality gel superglue, like Loctite Gel Control or Roket Rapid. Or hell if you're super ham handed use fucking Roket Max, or even if you like watery glues there's Roket Hot

Even fucking Zap A Gap or whatever fucking brand of cyanoacrylate will be better and mroe useful than plastic glue

Plastic glue is for plastic vehicle hulls ONLY. Using them on anything else is retarded as fuck.

>>53202410
CA a shit.
Brittle garbage for people that need three tries to zip their fly.

>>53202410
I've never had problems with plastic glue, I don't really care about whether it works on resin and metal when I'm gluing together two pieces of plastic. Why is it retarded to use it for gluing together plastic non-vehicles?

>>53195873
heavy weapons teams have one meant for holding mortars

>>53202676

>Brittle

What the fuck are people doing on /wip/ to their models? Do you chuck them in a margarine tub after every game?

>>53202410
I take it you have plenty of experience working with plastic cement. In a small, un-ventilated cupboard.

>>53202787
I like my plastics to bounce if dropped.
Superglue is for magnets and inferior materials.

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>>53202800
>I take it you have plenty of experience working with plastic cement. In a small, un-ventilated cupboard.

I'm not a huge fan of wasting our post count by shitposting, but this was the best laugh I've had all day. Thanks, anon!

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>https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-MAS-KIT-VC16-B22-Compressor/dp/B00BF0MW9G
This a good set for someone who's literally never airbrushed before? I'm a little worried about dropping $200 on a good set just to break it trying to learn how to use it.

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Working on some objective markers

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Dug out my wraithknight and started painting it this week since 8th got me hyped again for 40k, here's to hoping that the new datasheet and cost actually lets me use it without feeling like a scumbag

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>>53202410
Plastic cement is perfectly fine for plastic kits and bonds much better than super glue, I have no idea what you're on about.

Anyone working with resin kits should do their homework before they start assembling them. If you don't know that you're supposed to use super glue on them, you probably don't know about washing them or removing air bubbles either because you're just jumping in without learning the right way to do it. Same goes for metal kits, although let's be honest, they're not as fussy as resin.

>>53202904
Nice gems, blue looks very.. dead though.

>>53202848
I recommend getting the compresser with the air tank. Yeah it costs 2x as much but it will be a much better experience. You'll have a lot less noise while you're working, and the pump will last longer since it won't be constantly running.

https://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1494620418&sr=1-4&keywords=airbrush+compressor

The only downside is that the airbrush itself that this brand makes is kind of ho-hum quality. It's fine for learning with, don't get me wrong, although if you get a certain level of practice in with it you'll want to pick up a fancier one like an Iwata eventually (fortunately the compressor will still be fine though).

>>53202932
Yep, that's on my next 'to do' list, wanted to get the gems done first so I could clean up any overspill onto the blue areas since I have awful shakehand when it comes to fiddly bits

>>53197580
base needs to be higher

>>53199874
You son of a bitch! Thats the scheme I was going with lol. DAK inspired kriegers.

What color greens did u use?

>>53202980
The only problem is that if get the $100 compressor, I may as well get the $150 airbrush to make the most use of it. I'm not sure if I'm okay with dropping $250 to test my hand at something.

I just want to know if the cheap-o set I linked will work for mini painting so I can see if I like airbrushing somewhat cheaply. Besides, I can always upgrade to the better compressor/airbrush later once I'm confident in my skills and I get my friend to buy my OG airbrush set off me.

>>53202899
Those came out great, anon.
I don't know why but I always liked making objective markers and to be more specific, treasure objective markers.
For Necromunda I did something similar to yours but followed this vid here making it a treasure pile
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBovRUaPXA8
I took it a step further and slapped a gold painted bolt gun, a drug dealer's dream right there for sure just to complete the gaudy look of the treasure pike.

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>>53203101
>>53202980
>I recommend getting the compressor with the air tank.
>https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=pd_sim_21_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001TO578Q&pd_rd_r=2D85C7THRM3VWABHW8DM&pd_rd_w=hwmdS&pd_rd_wg=a0L9t&psc=1&refRID=2D85C7THRM3VWABHW8DM
What about this set? This one has a tank and it's only $20 more expensive than the one I originally posted.

>>53195651
the story of that picture looks like
"daddy, they were mean to me"
"don't worry, I will take care of them"

>>53202071
yeah, I know that problem, the only solution what I found is, to remove the nozzle

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Newbie necron guy again here. Starting on third miniature.
Experimenting a bit with blending
tried 2BB
almost ruined the freaking carbine
went back to feathering

Which colour should I edge highlight with?
Eshin grey or something lighter still?

>>53192620
I like it, but if you really wanna break up the color i would have painted the horizontal connector, between the upper legs and lower legs, a metal color like your pipes.

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>>53203426
Fuck me but that was blurry as hell
Sorry anons, here a better one

>>53203135
Yeah that's the set I bought. In my opinion it's a good set to buy if you want to learn airbrushing and leave yourself with room to graduate to a better brush. It's an investment, but I think it's worthwhile.

>>53201854
Trying to average one infantry model a day. I want to batch paint once I have a scheme down, but I need to decide on one first.

>>53202162
I've primed them black, but when I try painting gold on over, the paint is almost like water even after I mix it. I've contemplated something like they showed in https://youtu.be/-HOLM7dXiyk but at $20 a can, that spray seems super expensive. If there are good alternatives though, I'd probably hop on that.

>>53202904
I lile the gems. However, as the other anon said, in comparison, blue looks rather flat.

>>53203458

Eshin Grey should be fine.
Any particular reason you are undercoating you Necrons in white?

>>53201362
cool mini Ahmed. Want to bring it to the white house? We should inspire more neckbeards like you to like LED lights. It's what makes Warhammer 40k great.

>>53203918
Actually no reason apart from experimenting. I primed all the minia at the same time but since it was the first time I wanted to try both black and white primer...the black one went on wonderfully, with the white one I realized my mistake at the third brush stroke.
156k brush storkes later I'm still cursing myself for that fucking white

>>53203659
>I try painting gold on over, the paint is almost like water
Ah I see, yea golds and similar metallics can really be hit or miss. If your gonna go with a spray can, there's absolutely no reason to settle for an over priced GW one.

You could also try just building over an easier to apply metallic, usually silver/gungrey/chrome etc even copper/bronze tend to go on easier then gold. Testors might go on better too.

Hey guys, I bought these magnets.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/192142926029?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
and im stupid, and got this drill, and it won't fit my magnets. http://www.ebay.com/itm/191386545072?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

What size drillbit would I need? Or am I better off getting another drill and some bits? It's for magnetizing my ork boy arms, for SWA.

>>53198664
Them boyz musta looted an extra-snazzy Guard depot.

>>53204421
1,6 mm i believe, sadly ost normal pin vice only takes up to 1,5, so you'd have to find a burr with a 1,5 mm base.

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Working on an Exalted Sorcerer of the Grand Coven of Hermetic Blades now

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>>53204674

>>53204654
>>53204421
Oh and in imperial measurements, "0.0625" bit.

>>53204702
Wet blending or lots of inking?

>>53204674
The pose reminded me a lot of
https://youtu.be/Pmk4Tl7PKAY?t=116
I'm sorry I just find it hilarious and awesome. Job well done, anon.

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I think I've fallen in love with Incubi darkness. I absolutely love the color, and I'm probably going to order a rattle can from my lgs after work for my deldar.

One question though: how the fuck do I highlight it?

>>53204733
Wet blending and a bit of stippling

>>53204786
>One question though: how the fuck do I highlight it?

Citadel says Kabalite Green (and Sybarite Green, if you want to go even brighter!) with Coelia Greenshade wash. Not sure if I buy that, personally.

>>53204864

Yea, kabalite is really bright. I was thinking even my Reaper Ancient Oak was too bright. Maybe it isn't, though

>>53204702
I really like everything on that cloak except for the bright stars. I feel like they're too thick.

>>53198462
bumping for some feedback

>>53199978
Yes, thankyou a mini guide would be amazing.

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Working on this GotC chaplain.
Anyone knows a good way to paint smoke?

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>>53205340

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I never seem to have enough light for photos, you can always barely see the highlights. How do I fix this?

>>53199978

Thanks for the basing tips, they're blanchitsu asf and I wanna emulate that. Your Herald is awesome btw, I missed previous threads, it's just blightking bits mixed with a nurgle herald right?

>>53205400
Two table lights.

>>53205400
Get more light.

Alternatively, use a non-white background.

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thinking about buying this halfling space marine

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Something I WIPped out. Needs a bit of polish.

>>53206068
Look at his wee lil' boots!

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I got the base colors down on my first Deff Dread.

Not sure how I'm feeling it. I went with the typical garish Ork colors of Red and Yellow, but something seems off.

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>>53204864
I just mix it with grey or white on my palette to highlight. Pic related, aprons

>>53206182
It's unbalanced. You need more red on the top or more silver on the bottom

>>53206182
I'm sure you'll like it better after its been weathered and looks suitably orky.

>>53206213
Those aren't grotesque, those are gorgeous.

>>53205340
I usually do a white drybrush over gray, and wash it black, and drybrush that wash as it dries. makes uneven nice streaks.

>>53206182
Like >>53206266 said
Got dip that sucker in wash like Achilles being dipped in the river.

>>53206295
Why wouldn't he wash its heel?

>>53206266
>>53206295
You're probably right. I still have to pick out the wires and stuff too. Probably going to paint them blue.

All the little spikey nubbins on the legs and chin I'm going to paint silver too, so maybe that will help bring it back into balance.

And oh yeah, all the metal is getting nuln oil, and the yellow and red bits are getting shaded and highlighted as well.

Do GW paints get sold at other places aside from GW shops and game stores?
I'm looking to pick some up, but the closest GW is like an hour away. I'm looking to see if, for instance, Walmart or Target sells them.

>>53206476
Only place I've seen GW stuff outside of game stores and GW stores is Hobbytown.

Walmart and Target will not have them.

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Why are the paint guides being removed?

I understand the codex removal but not the paint guides

>>53206607
They probably expect people to watch Duncan's videos.

>>53199127
Can you take a photo of the right snake(with the curled-around-rock tail) next to a space marine or something, please? I want to know how tall it is.

Anyone have experience layering colors with GW's rattle cans? I need a dark blue for my Night Lords, and Macragge is too bright. I'm wondering if I can spray down chaos black first and then spray Macragge over it to get something similar to Kantor. I use the Duncan method of Kantor over the Black, and I love the midnight blue it makes.

>>53207158
I dont have one, but its about twice the height of a space marine.

>>53206805
Speaking of, what the fuck is with the new Duncan videos that only cover one small part of actually painting a mini?

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Posted the terminator on the left yesterday in the last archived thread, based them today.
Figured I'd post the final result.
Shitty image quality.
Takes away from some of the detail (especially the "sand") but you get the general idea.

>>53207443
Because there's no need to show the entire thing being painted. He just repeats the steps. If you aren't a mongoloid you can easily apply the demonstrated steps all over a miniature. He's not covering complicated techniques like NMM where you may need someone to hold your hand the whole way.

>>53207634
I feel like your basing should be a different color. It all kind of blends together.

The dudes look cool though.

So before I go off the deep end and try to repaint some heroclix figures I'm looking for 16 miniatures that could pass for business suit wearing Yakuza with no guns. Can anyone suggest me a couple?

How the hell are you supposed to pin Wyches' feet? Or is there another secret to getting them to stand stable on non-slotted bases?

>>53207889
They're on tabs for a reason, same as scourges. Very small points of contact otherwise. Try plastic glue?

>>53208005
Well, the issue is I'm attaching them to molded resin bases, so plastic glue won't help. I can get enough points of contact to have them "kicking off" stones/rubble/etc on the base, but even that seems limited.

>>53208048
Cut slots in the resin bases for the tabs.

Not the whole tabs, just leave enough on that there's enough meat for the glue to stick to.

>>53208048
I'm imagining an elaborate solution with inlaid peices of plastic that have been superglued into a drilled/carved recess in the resin base that the feet are then plastic glued to, but that may be a ridiculous amount of work, depending

>>53208160
I've got the Hekatrix set up with slot-pins to experiment with. If it works, I'll do it on the other bases; if not, at least the Hekatrix has two legs on the ground anyway.
>>53208168
Considering the individual tiles on the base are about the size of the contact area from foot to base, yeah, that'd be a hell of a lot of precision cutting.

>>53208048
If it's stones and rubble, have rod or "support beams" made from chunks of sprue that you pinned or recessed in the bases. You can have a larger piece of the foot on those support beams like they're jumping off, as a bonus you can then use plastic cement.

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>>53208278
These, specifically, are what I'm working with if that helps with a reference. 25mm.

>>53207198
Anyone? I'm legitimately curious, but I don't want to drop the dosh on a whim.

>>53208349
Macragge Blue is much lighter than Kaldor so I wouldn't recommend it if you're going for a dark Edge Lords scheme.

>>53208459

That's why I was asking about a light spray over the black.

>>53208524
so if kantor over black got you the result you want, why do you imagine that macragge over black could somehow be the same thing? the spray cans aren't THAT different, and would be harder to control the thickness of anyways.

>>53208622

I figured a lite mist might do enough over the black, that's all. Oh well. Does anyone have a darker blue, then? I didn't see one on army painter.

Is there a good guide for modelling with greenstuff? I saw the casting guides in the sticky but I don't know if those are what I'm looking for.

>>53209213
I found out what little I know just by youtube videos and googling for guides.

You can usually find stuff for specifics pretty easy.

Oh, and I use a small cap of olive oil to dip my tools in before sculpting with. Prevents the green stuff from sticking to them.

>>53208305
you could just cut the tabs down to size that you can use them as pins.

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>>53205464
Thank you, blanchitsu is exactly what I was going for with the bases so I'm glad it shows. Yes the herald is all blight king, herald parts and green stuff. This pic wasn't quite finished, I had to green stuff a double chin and fat cheeks on him.

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Guys check out my work
perfect innit?

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Hola /wip/

How's my paint thinning going?
I been really trying not to suck as bad as usual with this guy

Still got a ton of work left but i hope when i get shredded apart for this guy that paint thinning isnt the complaint anymore.

(Gonna post an image of his front next)

>>53210326
THICKEN HIS BRUSH

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>>53210344
This pic isnt very good
He looks slightly better and less shitty irl

>>53207634
You should use a pin drill on the bolter to add firing barrels.

>>53210326
How do people manage this, even on their first minis?

>>53210553

based off the pauldrons and bolter
pure intentional memeing

>>53194430
Love it

>>53210355
You need to go back and do more thin layers on almost everything to build up smooth colours, then wash it. Or you could do it the lazy way, wash the whole model now pretty heavily then build up the raised areas to solid smooth colours.

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I'm currently kitbashing a wolf lord from the heresy captain set, was thinking of loading him out like the picture on the right but I don't think the underslung heavy bolter would work on the cataphractii arms

I'm uncertain what weapons to use for each arm, and if I should repose them, I'm going to be using greenstuff for fur on the cloak and maybe some runes so I could have the fur cover over the shoulders to hide any gaps from reposing the arms

Thoughts on how I should approach this? I'm not sure what weapons are going to constitute a good loadout with all the changes 8th edition is going to bring. If any doubt an axe and storm bolter could make him useable as a stand-in Logan Grimnar

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>>53210870
Alright glad to know im on the right track

I added some more layers and then just finished washing it

Gonna do highlights/touch ups now

>>53210958
Looks bout right. Be careful not to paint on to wet paint, you'll end up with awful looking tide marks and lumps and bumps.

>>53210414
Yeah, I've been meaning to find one of those things in my town.
Hell I want it more for basing purposes, but yes the moment I get one holes will be drilled, if you know what I mean ;)

Just ordered some Incubi spray and picked up kabalite and sybarite green. I'll admit that the kabalite isn't as bright as I thought. It'll highlight well I think.

Now, I need to find the will to finish painting. It's hard, /wip/.

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>>53211058
Alright all finished up

What's WiP think of the comparison?

>>53211461
I think perhaps you need to take your time a little more. The yellow could use more layers and a highlight, same with the white. The bronze looks unfinished. Maybe don't try and do it all in one go, just focus on one part at a time, getting it really neat and smooth. As it is it looks a bit rushed, a lot of the colour is muddy.

>>53211461
Agreed with the other anon. It could use more layers on the white and bronze but definitely more layers of yellow. Also I would try to work a bit more on the other marines face,maybe a careful wash then relayer the skin tone. As it is now the guy on the left is a meme face waiting to happen. Other than those things its a pretty solid start

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>>53211640
Guy on left is already a meme face

>>53211569
I'll take your advice and add more layers to him tomorrow

>>53204786
pretty sure the rattle can variant was a limited run, but i usually highlight mine with thunderhawk blue and then the fang

>>53198696
>>53200527
>>53204559

Thanks Lads, it's all very WIP, I'll do the rest and add more photos.

It's for a Shadow War Gang!

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heres my current overall progress on my kharadon overlords, sorry for lighting, sorta presenting the army progress as a whole for the moment, should have more soon

So I wanna put sand on a base without gluing the model to it

had mild success using white glue to glue a pair of legs to a base, then glue the sand, then rip off the legs, then I'lll glue the model on properly once everything is painted


but this doesn't work as well with the another model, since it's all wobbly and white glue won't hold it in place

>>53212315
you could trace the outline of the feet with a pencil on the base and lave the glue off there.
While the pva is soft you should be able to still move it around during a dryfit and close enough to the feet that it won't leave gaps.

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>>53199708
>tyranids with STG 44's

>>53211461
Slow down, use a thinner brush, be gentle and try to stay in the lines.


Also thin your paints, the yellow on the marines shoulderpads looks thick.

The terminators face looks like the paint was too thick, same for the white on his shoulder pads.

Thin your paints and go nice and slow. My advice would be

Primer spray
Layer (or two, if your paint is nice and thin then it'll take a couple layers to cover)
Highlight or drybrush highlight
Wash
Touch up/highlight any areas the wash has effected

And you're done. Seriously thin your paints down.

I'm a noob and most of the models I see are assembled before being painted. But that looks like it'd make it a pain in the arse to get at half the detail. Is this somehow not really a problem in practise? Should I not worry because my painting will be shit anyway?

>>53201457
Yeah mate, the top one. Though that one(I have it in my hobby tool set) will be uncomfortable in the palm of your hand after a while, so take frequent brakes when using it.

>>53212441
It's up to you. I personally would not sub assemble every fucking thing just large models and guys you want to look good like independent chars etc.

>>53212464
Okay, but how do you deal with arms and the like getting in the way? Just paint what you can and not give a fuck?

Hehe 10/10 op pic. Is it everyone in /wip/ or is it one huge autist that makes these all the time?

>>53212575
Use a fine detail brush and be very gentle

>>53212575
just try your best you will get better at it. If they are troops they need to look nice as a group not as single models. Most armies' troops are pretty low detail anyway and those bits you can't reach will probably never be seen by anyone. I also find its easier to know where to shade and highlight etc when you can see the model as a whole and know where the light would fall etc.

>>53212609
>be very gentle
Well, shit. I'm bad enough at the gluing part alone.

>>53212648
Okay, thanks. Guess I just have to face the fact that painting badly is better than not painting.

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>>53197331
>Rather than two thin coats, today we're going to be able to do one and a half thin coats

MAD MAN

>>53190436
just turn it into a church

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>>53211640

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How's this scheme for boyz?
Going for a mashup of speed freaks and deffskulls, so i figured: Orkabilly Greasers,

Gonna vary it a bit among models of course with black jackets and vests where applicable

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FUCK

>>53213588
It's gonna be a pain in your ass getting shirts white and then dirty, cool concept though.

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>>53195597
>>53199318

>>53213648
Just gonna cheat with a bone base and then a dilute black wash over.

>>53213689
Get started then anon !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zxoGFjFJlk

>>53213622
well time to drink it all.

Or ya know, pick it up woth a dropper

>>53213622

Welcome to the club. It's like /WIP/ has some kind of wash-hating curse associated with all who frequent it.

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>>53213588
>Going for a mashup of speed freaks and deffskulls, so i figured: Orkabilly Greasers,

Da Orkchop Express?

>>53213622
Get a big brush and soak it up and press it back into the bottle. Save what yee can lad.

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>>53212597
>Is it everyone in /wip/ or is it one huge autist that makes these all the time?
More the former than the latter. I made the current OP image and a few others, but I've only made a small fraction of OP images overall.
Making OP images for /wip/ is something fun to do when I need a break from actual /wip/shit.

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>>53213622
ONE OF US, ONE OF US

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And 3. I'm getting faster.
Tips?
What should I try to do / do better?

>>53215006
Still looking great
Though there's some funky looking white stuff in the recesses of the necron (primer?) You should fix that up.

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Finished building my Nurgle Ogres not counting the odd bling or grimgoire. What do you think about them?
Sorry for lousy phone pics.

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>>53215458
Oh and while I'm posting them; Nurglings instead of gnoblars - yay or nay?

>>53215006
Looks solid, maybe consider a different colour on the shoulder/collar to make it less monochrome.

Also Pick out the chest emblem's glyph in brigth green or gold

>>53215006

Also a new necron player/painter here. Are the shoulder carapace the same color as the rest of the body? It looks like it could use some contrast in that area. Ill try to post mine here in a few we can trade tips!

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Progress. Done for today.

>>53213622
I once did this for our kitchen rug. Wife wasnt too pleased.

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>>53215006