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WIP WORK IN PROGRESS /WIPG/

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Thread replies: 364
Thread images: 97

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Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Panther, I need Charlie Zone status. Report!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzWP-C8oDPw
>>
>>53163333

Posted after new thread started.
>>
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This what happens when you dont read the op's guides.
>>
>>53163365
I hope this becomes the next OP image too!
>>
Just in case somebody needs these:

>Previous threads
>>53141767
>>53117901
>>53092035
>>53067912
>>53036868
>>
(from previous thread)

So I'm planning on getting into the hobby and I will need a new set of paints / brushes and such, any recommendations on where to buy brushes? I've read here that the Citadel ones are not recommended because they are overpriced.

Also I am a total noob and want to start Tyranids with a custom pattern, am I completely mad?
>>
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made an autocannon turret instead of spending 30 dollars on one from fw
>>
>>53163681
Tyranids are probably one of the easiest armies to paint to tabletop standard.
Prime, spray basecoat, wash, pick out detail, seal. Done.
>>
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Thoughts on my first space marine?
>>
>>53163886
So are brushes from the army painter any good?

Is this a good deal?
http://www.triplehelixwargames.co.uk/product/brush-set-standard-small-detail-drybrush/

Should I also start thinking of saws and magnetising from the start too? Sorry for asking too many questions as I am completely at a loss here
>>
>>53163950
Your base is a little sparse
>>
>>53163950
That's a good table top quality model
>>
>>53163985
If you know what models you're gonna buy to kick things off then you should know whether you'll need to magnetise or not. I would advise magnets on your multi-weapon models as we don't yet know 100% what 8th ed will mean in terms of shooty vs CC.

Looks like a decent brush set to me, though going forward you'll need to probably treble your number of brushes, adding a large drybrush, a brush between standard and fine detail for small areas, a super-fine brush for edge highlights etc, a large brush for washing.

Back to magnetising and weapon swaps you'll probably find a pin vice drill helpful also
>>
>>53163950
Pro-painted.
>>
>>53163886
>Tyranids are probably one of the easiest armies to paint to tabletop standard.

Depends on how you feel about mold lines. I've heard the little bugs are pretty bad in this regard, having to scrape in between all those overlapping layers of carapace!
>>
>>53163950
You're gonna get far kid. Looking forward to your daily dank tips.
>>
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I wanted to something halfway in between clean painting, and grubby Blanche artwork style.

I think I kind of got the worst of both styles.

anyway what do you guys think? They're probably 90% done,
>>
>>53164065
Thanks for the advice m8
>>
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Reposting my not quite finished Minotaurs Contemptor Dreadnought from the previous thread. Now in a better angle, and not full frontal.
Any thoughts?
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>>53165049
>>
>>53165049
Are you painting the knee pads and codpiece red, because the lower body is pretty boring?

Also the bronze needs more wash in all crevices.
>>
>>53163365
w-what happened?
>>
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I just bought dungeon saga.
Considering leaving the miniatures unpainted, considering HOW fucking tiny they are.

Has anyone here painted miniatures THAT small?

Like those fuckers put the mini in miniature.

One coat of primer and you clogged up 90% of detail is my fear.
>>
>>53165165
I'm waiting for the etched brass from forgeworld, hoping the small chapter symbols will fit on the knee. If not, dunno. I still have to paint the skulls and highlight the chains and add company markings and all that, so I might just put those onto the knee.
I've used Agrax Gloss for shading, should I try the regular one instead? Might give a better finish, shadowed areas don't really shine anyway.
>>
>>53165249
Do you even 8mm?
>>
>>53165249
yes theres no way that anyone could paint a model that small, in fact even priming such a tiny model would destroy it.
>>
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>>53165249
>>
>>53165327
They're supposed to be 28-32mm scale.
>>
>>53165249

Mate what, that's just a normal size 28mm Dwarf. Not painted before?
>>
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Is it actually possible to get a hold of the old chaos raptor jump packs anymore ??

I really love the style, and want to use the jump pack for some conversions, but i've only been able to find Kromlech's version.
>>
>>53165326
Agrax matte into deep recesses I reckon,
>>
>>53165374
People here paint 8mm miniatures just fine so why would painting a 28-32mm miniature be any different?
>>
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>>53165446
20 years ago, my hero quest miniatures.
They seemed bigger to me back then.
>>
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>>53165327
>8mm
HA! you are like a little baby.
Watch this
>>
>>53165511
My thumb is bigger than the entire miniature.
I have a hard time wrapping my head around how I am to approach this
>>
>>53165536
THIN YOUR PAINTS
>>
>>53165569
Paint
Highlight
Wash
Re-highlight the sharp points
Switch between blocks of guys and heroes/characters to keep things interesting
>>
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>>53165536
>3mm

Wew lad. Cool it with your oversized action figures.
>>
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Hey,

little update from my first guardsman from last thread.
the combat weapon is now painted and all that's missing now are the highlights on the armor (still dont have the right colour).

i watered the paint on the weapon like some anon from last thread recommended and i think it worked pretty well.

also do you guys have any ideas what to do with the base ? i'm kinda non-creativ when it comes to base modeling.
>>
>>53165732

Imagine "sculpting" these for a living?

That like 2000:1? Not sure what that is in millimetres
>>
>>53165793
2mm.
>>
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>>53165759
Easy mode:
>glue sand onto base
>basecoat black/dark brown
>drybrush browns/greys/anything
Make sure it's fine, you don't want anything coarse.
Another super easy one is to just buy some static grass. Put super glue onto his base dunk the base in the static grass and blow off the extras and blam!
Pic related is just sand, it's nothing fancy.
>>
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>>53163683
Nice, I'm stealing this idea
>>
>>53165732
the smallest scale models I have are 1.5mm, but those are large ships / aircraft and robots.
No single infantry models though.
>>
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How big is your backlog /wip/?

Ive got a few characters, vind, rhino, assault squad, sternguard, cataphractiis, and some bolter marines. Looking to get another BaC to get some more bodies for heavy/special weapons and a shooty termy squad.

Not pictured are about 50 ork boyz, trukks, deffcopters, and various characters
>>
>>53165918
>How big is your backlog /wip/?
ahahahahaa
AHAHAHAHAHAHAH
kill me
>>
>>53165918
I recently had to move all my backlog stuff out of the guest room. For this purpose, we bought eight stackable Ikea boxes, which were filled exclusively with my backlog. It now resides in my room as the single most space-consuming feature. I call it the Tower of Shame.
>>
>>53165918
My backlog is probably best described as taking up a modest storage unit at this point.
>>
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Getting there. Need more time.

>>53165018
I like them, the colour scheme is great, particularly the guys without cloaks.
>>
>>53165918
5 tartaros termis
5 converted csm termis
50 marines from BaC and BoPI have no fucking clue what I'm going to do with them
10 Nurgle bikers
1 wyvern
1 juggerlord
1 kytan daemon engine
1 chaos termi lord conversion
1 cataphractii apothecary
1 Khrone daemon prince

Well at least it's not as bad as it used to be and it's summer break again. My goal is all but the vanilla marines unless 8th makes me need more infantry and I get into HH using marine heavy lists instead of termis
>>
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>>53165834
>Another super easy one is to just buy some static grass

do you mean this stuff ? found a bag of it in my decades old box with the fantasy models.
maybe i'll try the brown-brushed sand thing and than place a few clusters of the "grass" on it.
>>
>>53163886
Technically Crons are the easiest since you can literally spray silver primer on them, dip em in a shade and call it done.
>>
>>53165018
i think these look great. the colors work well and the levels are nice. tabletop quality++
>>
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>>53165918
30 marines
1 drop pod
1 rhino waiting to be finished
1 imperial knight
1 squad of catapchractii terminators
the Dark Vengeance box
1 Chaos Desolator squad (10 marines + Rhino)
1 juggerlord
1 harlequin troupe
36 necron warriors
1 ghost ark
1 cryptek
10 lychguards
1 squad of immortals somewhere
1 command barge
1 tomb stalker
Slambo
Hoping to win the Titan forgeworld gives away. I hope for the best, but expect nothing. Even the 25 pound voucher would be nice.

>>53166242
>Mark III Marines
See pic
>>
>>53165918
>one box of raptors need paint
>one SC CSM box not even assembled minus the helbrute who still needs paint
>about 8 more regular CSM who need to be painted past the base coat
>tfw I just ordered a box of bikers and are expecting them any day now
I promised I wasn't gonna buy any more dudes til I had these finished but when I hit up the LGS for paints they told me they do a 20% discount for any online orders through them and next thing you know I ordered the fucking bikers.
>>
>feel like modeling / painting
>Remember I'll have to spend 5 hours shaving mold lines
>Go back to what I was doing before

I really love painting but anytime I think of removing mold lines I instantly lose all motivation.

Anyone else have this issue?
>>
>>53166523
>1 tomb stalker
by that I meant Triarch Stalker, actually. Tomb Stalker would be nice though.
>>
>>53166523
>>53166242
>>53165975
>>53166107
STOP BUYING MORE STUFF AND PAINT WHAT YOU'VE GOT GOOD LORD
>>
>>53166551
I'm more into the building part. I could go and build a squad completely within an hour, no moldlines or anything left. But then I remember that I should leave some parts off for easier painting. Then I remember I have to undercoat them and wait quite some time for the undercoat to dry. Base colours are okay, because I can just take my biggest brush and paint the whole squad in a fast way. But having to wait for a wash to dry or remembering to do a ton of highlights kills my mood quite quickly. Thus, a backlog and a lot of half-finished miniatures remain.
>>
>>53165918
I still have a shit ton of models to build
>>
And my two test Deldar with some basing done. The wych is magnetized, hence the unpainted arms, but I should probably put something else on the base.
>>
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>>53166720
Mother fucker
>>
>>53165918
A 75 point trollblood army, minus a single Troll Axer and Dire Troll Mauler. Plus a few boxes of cleric/mage PCs for rpgs
>>
>>53163303
So what do you guys do with all your spare bits and sprues?
>>
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>>53165918

Not seen here is another box of wyches, 20 Hellions, and a Succubus. Of this, one box of which is mostly assembled and primed, and most of one SC! Box is assembled.
>>
>>53166818
Keep everything on the sprues, in case I might need it someday. I probably won't, but still.
>>
>>53165502
those where amazing, new ones are shit. Literally a pair of fucking barrels.
>>
>>53166864
I so agree.
They are made of pure sex.

Plz tell me you know where to get them. I've been scouring the internet for hours now
>>
>>53165502
>>53166899

China. Z and Alpharius have them for $1/each

>>53166864
They're MKV assault packs, which I happen to like.
>>
>>53166920
Never considered Alpharius and i've looked over Z so many times and never noticed them.

You're a fucking godsend anon, i could kiss you right now.

Could you save me another hour of research and tell me what alpahrius is like ? model quality, delivery time etc.
>>
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>mfw going back into my 40k collection of olde and trying to strip this shit and reattach parts and give updated loadouts

mother of god this is taking literally longer than painting the entire army, I'm considering just ebaying the shit as a lot of bits and buying new models, what in a fuck
>>
>>53167139
Honestly, I've never ordered from Alpharius, but I've only heard good things from what reviews I've read on yoyhammer. He was honestly going to be my next order.
>>
>>53165759
>5MB

>>53166278
>2MB

>majority of picture in both is irrelevant
>>
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I'm the newbie necron guys from a couple of threads ago.
You were so kind in praising and commenting that I decided to keep up with my promise and post update of the 2nd minia (aaaaaand I need advise).

Messed up pretty badly the first bayonet (wanted to try NMM but with the whole minia in metal paint it just felt wrong), had to prime one from another rifle, cut it and glue it (and done a shitty job at it).

Also, how the fuck do you pals edge highlights on round area, jesus christ I actually had to buy a better brush just to reach this shitty result.

Really happy about the pipes (I've no yellow so just playing with the white, I'll go and buy one in the next few days).

Can you guys help me with blades in general? I indeed experimented upon it but my feathering attempt with metallic paint was awful
>>
>>53165611
Washes and all that stuff doesn't work with figures that small. You want the details, as few as there are, to pop out. Look up Kevin Dallimore, expand your mind beyond your tired memes.
>>
>>53167384
Fair enough, thanks anyway you lovely anon.
>>
I need some advice, this is not a painting question.
I'm making some terrain items for my DnD game, not dungeon tiles but objects I can put on the grid to help make the strategic placement easier to visualize and help facilitate more varied combat situations.
So far I made a corner wall that is 3x3 spaces, a wall 3 spaces long, a well (something can be pushed into it or jump out from it) and a door/portal.
What other elements can I make to increase the number of arrangements I can get?
I thought of making few that would signify single or double untraversable spaces and elevated vantage points like a boulder that could be climbed for ambush or whatever.
>>
is it ok to use acrylic wash over an oil painted model?
>>
>>53166180
Love the apperance of your mini there, looking forward to see it completed!
>>
>>53165846
>not naming it hoppy merchant

Fucking pleb.
>>
Any tips for converting eldar guardians into dire avengers without bits?
>>
>>53167545

Any time. We'll be raptor buddies soon I think.
>>
>>53166728
way too muted. they need highlights. basing looks pretty OK
>>
>>53166180
I don't see what you're trying to do, it looks like his flesh is rusty or right next to a fire. Yeah, it looks like he's got OSL on the lower third of his body. The blue looks interesting. Maybe you should try to freehand veins on it (if you can)
>>
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>>53163950
>>
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Getting my boys done
>>
>>53169227
Salamanders or Aurora chapter?
>>
>>53169247
What do you think, anon?
>>
>>53169247
>fire everywhere
>fucking salamander logo on the shoulders and flag
duh gee boss I dunno
>>
>>53169288
>>53169276
:^)
>>
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>>53163365
>[screams externally]
>>
>>53168761

They are actually highlighted, but it's not showing up on my. Shitty camera. The onky. Thing that isn't is the leather because I honestly don't know how to highlight Incubi Darkness.
>>
>>53169276
Raven Guard.
>>
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Guess who just got an ebay shipment of 16 more berserkers just in time for 8th edition...
>>
>>53167417
Damn. For a new painter this looks really good
>>
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Also got my forge world Commander Ainea
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Last 7th ed tournament coming up, going out in style with models I put off painting for 3 years. Think I can take best painted? Need to finish off bases.
>>
>>53163303
Does anyone have the Tyranid painting guide? I can't find it in the OP link
>>
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Picked up the start collecting box for guard. This is my first guardsmen done, will post the sergeant in foreground if you guys want. R8 pls

On an unrelated note, what should the fluff for my guys be? I was thinking space pirates, and I would take bits from my friend who plays empire and make them suitably piratey, but I could not think of good colours. I really liked the scheme on my current guys but I also feel like they look too much like plain cadians, so I scrapped the pirate idea. I was thinking of making them a mercenary company to kind of meet half way. Perhaps green fatigues and a different colour for the flak armour? I dont know guys, help me out.
>>
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>>53165918
JUST

this isnt even my entire backlog. AND i have 40 more dudes on the way being shipped

Someone help me


And teach me how to thin paints
>>
>>53170226
Fuck it's sideways. Sorry I'm phoneposting :(
>>
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What do you think bros?
Just me, a typical space marine player. I also play stormcast in case you were wondering
>>
>>53169733
Berserkers when new kits should.hit in the foreseeable future? You're brave.
>>
>>53170229
Mix with water or paint thinner to the consistency of milk. Congrats, you've learned how to thin paints
>>
>>53170261
Not brave. Just stupid.

Though I did get em for about a dollar per model on ebay.

plus I love the 23 year old berserker sculpts

I like my chaos to have a cartoony vibe
>>
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>>53169783
>not fixing the molding lines
>>
>>53169783
the mold slip on that leg is fucking egregious. id ask for a replacement
>>
Any advice for highlighting? I'm painting blood Angels, got the first base coat and used the agrax shade on it, but the book (PDF) says to use more mephiston red on the raised bits and then highlight with evil sunz scarlet but I'm so bad at these parts, please help me
>>
>>53170388
try your best? watch some videos? we can't shoot magical make-it-easier rays at you through the internet
>>
>>53170431
I see
>>
>>53170256
the worst part about this monstrosity is that he didn't even thin his fucking paints
>>
>>53170388
Basically, you wanna highlight the hard edges of the model or the parts that would catch light if it were a real thing and not a painted mini. Edge highlights are easy - just lightly brush the hard edges - like say the top vent thing on a space marine's helmet. You don't need to do the entire vent, just the part at the front where the vent ends will be enough. Typically you wanna use the same color as your base coat if you did an all-over wash and then transition to a lighter version of that same color in a smaller amount, or just a lighter version of the base coat color if you didn't wash everything.

Here's a video of our lord and master Duncan painting Blood Angels armor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9HzqHVg1uE
>>
>>53170388
Try it. The try again on the next model, because you're still bad at it. After you're done having a squad of chaos spawn in disguise, you try even more models. Until you git gud.
Also, maybe watch some videos about painting (ol' Duncan has a nice tutorial for beginners), do what the book says you should do (there are definitely illustrations in it to show you how it's done.) or maybe ask at your LGS if they sometimes host painting workshops, or if you can paint there with other guys.
Happy painting anon, don't give up.
>>
>>53170370
>>53170380
WEWLADS
thats some fine forge world QUALITY

i just too a file and tried getting rid of it
im too lazy and impatient to send it back for a replacement

it looks a little better now but theres not much i can do on that fucking aquila on the shin

thanks for pointing that out friends
>>
>>53170501
>>53170524
Thank you both, I'll just keep practising and watch some videos etc, maybe one day I'll have figs good enough to post in here
>>
>>53170588
It'll come with time. It's hard to learn at first, but thankfully Simple Green exists and you have more knowledge and guides available to you now than you ever could have before.
>>
>>53170588
you dont need good figs to post in here

you just gotta be able to take lots and lots of criticism
>>
>>53169227
I'll take a better one when I get home didn't see it was shakey
>>
>>53170525
you could always sand the aquila away completely, and then use a transfer or freehand it or something
>>
>>53163303
Oh sweet, Goblins
>>
>>53170906
Nah I paint too thick anyway, I'm sure once he is done I will hardly notice such an egregious flaw
>>
>>53170934
Have you seen the Greenskin Wars minis? If you're a Kev Adams fan prepare to jizz your pants. I just found out about that shit (missed the kickstarter) and I'm really hoping that the stuff goes to normal ordering
>>
>>53165918
2 Daemons of Nurgle start collecting boxes
13 plastic Plaguebearers
20 I think metal weird plaguebearers
2 Blight Drones
1 Plague Drone
2 Daemon Princes that require heavy modification
A shitload of Nurglings
20 Bloodletters
6 Bloodcrushers (rest in peace)
Several old death guard/CSM
Several pink horrors
Possibly cleaning up an old GUO I painted long ago
A Lord of Change
I think a few Dark Eldar
And 3 Obliterators

Currently working on the nurgly stuff first because I love nurgle but I paint at a snails pace and am just experimenting with color on the demons.
>>
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I touched up some old models, how they look?
>>
>>53163683

where do the spent shell casings go?
>>
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Almost got two lads completed. The damn green stuff took way longer to harder than I thought it would.

>>53171787
>wasting Munitorum resources by letting them fall outside of the tank
Sounds like HERESY to me, anon.
>>
>>53172053
That's a big sword you have there, commissar...
>>
>>53172094
All the better to smite heretics, Private.
>>
>>53172053
Aside for the concept of the tommy helmet these sculpts are horrendous.
>>
>>53172516
At least there cheap. I don't think I'd have an IG/IQ army if I had to pay more than 30 cents an infantryman.
>>
Where should I buy magnets from? MiniWarGaming seems a little expensive, but I know shit about magnets.
>>
>>53172618
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/
>>
>>53171103
You can buy some already, though they're not cheap. Knightmare miniatures is the dudes website. He's been adding the range in dribs and drabs
>>
>>53171787
Pretty sure autogun derivatives fire caseless
>>
>>53171291
Pretty nice! Crests look great. Blue looks a bit sloppy in places and could stand brighter highlights
>>
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Y/N on the blend of dark steel and grey?

imo it looks a little too bluish, but I really can't tell if I like the look (or have the skill to pull it off)

As per usual, any ideas/help/criticism is greatly appreciated.
>>
>>53172975

Grey looks too flat. Either highlight it or light drybrush to give it a weathered look.
>>
>>53173012
Good idea. What sort of drybrush? Metallic for a blend with the steel armor, or maybe a lighter grey to give a chipping effect.

Same thing if highlighting.
>>
>>53163950

Duncan would be proud pham.
>>
>>53173050

Drybrush light grey.
Alternatively, you can go through the processof layering black, then metal for a more detailed weathering effect.
>>
>>53165018
You missed a lens in the front center.
>>
>>53163347
>nobody answered this guy

Mold lines, flash, and sprue-tabs FIRST then glue. Get each component cleaned up as best you can. Almost impossible to do when assembled.

Also test-fit and pose before gluing (blu-tac or "poster putty" is ideal for temporarily attaching components)

As for the difficulty with small components, it's a learned skill, you kinda have to use some of the fingers on your knife-hand to help hold the piece in place. A very sharp knife is actually easier to work with. Clippers are a good way to remove components without those big sprue nubs that you got, presumably, by using the knife to remove them.

Also, "back-scraping" is far easier and safer (for both you and the models) than is trying to slice off the mold-lines, if you aren't already aware of how to do this.

Sometimes, the designer is just not working with you, like when the moldline runs through hair or down the center of a face, and you're probably not going to be able to get it perfect no matter what you do.

You can use a file, but I don't because I'm competent at backscraping and the file almost always leaves a rough surface. Also won't help with trickier moldlines (hair/face etc.)
>>
>>53172516
Those are old models; they were originally released for the Warzone Mutant Chronicles starter kit, and they were great at the time. They aged really well considering that they were released the same time the old monopose marines were.
>>
>>53163365
what the fuck happened?
>>
I was just bout to shade my first skelegate but had a quick question. Will it be more my dudes if I shade him with Drakenhof Nightshade or Druchii Violet instead of the Nuln oil?

If I go to personalize him with some colors on the shoulderpads that are non metallic will this look like shit next to the Leadbelcher base?
>>
what did the mail man bring you today anon?

also how good is rust-oleum sandable primer black?
>>
>>53174774
>sandable
Don't.
>>
>>53174774
>also how good is rust-oleum sandable primer black?

Not as good as their 2X stuff.
>>
>>53174823
why not?
>>
>>53174882
Sandable primers apply extremely thickly, so that they can be sanded down to a regular, even finish. Great if you're painting a car, awful if you're painting an inch tall mini covered in fine detail.
>>
>>53170106
Didnt find it myself either. Oh well atleast we have Duncans videos on youtube.
>>
>>53175081
shit, what primer do you recommend?
>>
Hey, /wipg/.

I officially hate eyedropper bottles. Just had one explode on me, covering my desk in paint, and also nailing myself right in the goddamn eye.
>>
>>53175332
how did you manage to do that
>>
>>53175227
>>53174854
>>
>>53175227
>>53174854
That, basically

I've never had problems with the 2x stuff. It does need a significant amount of time to dry compared to specialist hobby primer though.
>>
>>53175360
Sounds like he didn't perform the standard dropper stress test. He got lucky though, usually people lose fingers or eyes if they use an untested bottle.
>>
>>53175360
Paint not come out.
Squeeze Bottle.
Paint still not come out.
Squeeze harder.
POP, top explodes out!

And my chair is probably too low to the desk so my face was in prime paint spray range.
>>
>>53175390
>>53175394
how good is it with resin models?
i heard some primers dont work well with resin
>>
>>53175433
Can't say I've ever used it on resin. Maybe try it out on some spare casting tabs if you have any.
>>
>>53170256
Welp, I quit tabletop wargames forever.
>>
>>53175227
>>53175433

I used a $3 can of Krylon paintless primer from Walmart on a bunch of china resin with no problem so far. Just make sure it's cleaned of all release agent and you should be good. I wound up spraying chaos black over it anyway because I needed the dark undercoat, but still. No problems.
>>
>>53168935
Yes, rusty discolouration was the original reference for my army, see pic, this guy just has more of it.
I disagree that it looks anything like osl though, the discoloured areas are all darker than his normal flesh, light glows are additive so can't be darker.
>>
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>>53175508
Forgot pic.
>>
>>53175518
rad
>>
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First experiment with green stuff I decided to change some noses
>>
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I banged out most of cypher last night. Need to clean up some messes and highlight his cape, but I'm not unhappy with how he's turning out.
>>
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Heres his mysterious butt.
>>
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Making an Anti armour rifle team for IG regiment. Probably will add a dude holding the barrel on his shoulder.
>>
What is everyone's opinion on heroforge minis?
I'm tempted on getting a semi custom mini for a long running character.
>>
>>53175966
It's hard to tell if the skittle arms are gonna look weird from the picture. Neat idea. What are you counting it as?
>>
>>53176082
Yea im goung to add ig shoulder pads to it to make it look bit better. Probably a lascannon or autocannon. Dont know yet.
>>
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>>53175974
can you convert it? then do that. Will likely yield better results.
though I think the wide spread of quality between the ones that I've seen may have something to do with which material was used and how much prep work went into the mini.

here are some good examples painted by a dude that does display quality painting
http://chestofcolors.com/tag/hero-forge/

here's a more realistic vision of what you got to expect.
>pic related
This was apparently printed in ultra frosted detail or whatever the shapeways name is.
Apparently a lot of cleanup was already done on this and it still looks somewhat rough to me.
>>
why tf cant forgeworld just cast shit in plastic
>>
>>53175619
Kaw, looks good
>>
>>53176235
Because the lower setup costs required to produce resin minis means that they can sell fewer and still break even, and therefore they can produce a variety of models that would otherwise be far too niche to justify ever making otherwise.
>>
>>53175619
brother goldstein reporting in
>>
Painting my first ever space wolf tonight


Any advice? Up until now I've only painted blood angels. I was going to base with "Army painter wolf grey" primer


And then do a layer or 2 of "fenrisian grey" and then drybrush with etherium blue, finally do a wash with Nuln oil and then highlight with etherium blue again.

Would etherium blue be a good choice for highlighting/dry brushing?
>>
>>53176235
head over to youtube and look for videos that explain how plastic injection molding, metal spin casting and resin works.
the answers should be self evident if you understand the manufacturing.
>>
>>53176297
why are some models more expensive in resin then?
>>
>>53176329
Because the producer expects to only sell an extremely small quantity of them, and because extremely few adequate substitutes usually exist for miniatures outside of generic fantasy/historicals giving the producer monopoly-like market conditions for that product.
>>
Guys quick question on companies


Do I have to paint my marines in a certain way for them to fit into a company? I want my space wolves to be part of "The great company", does it matter how I paint the shoulder pads to reflect this?
>>
>>53176329
you can reuse miscast metal minis.
You have to throw miscast resin away.
That and time. Depending on what kind of resin is used, which may vary depending on the minis since you need working time to remove bubbles etc, it also takes longer.
>>
>>53163303
>wash your brush in your tea
>don't notice
>drink out of your tea
>put mug down
>notice tea is purple
>>
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>>53176724
>take a big fast gulp of your paint water
>>
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>>53176724

How do you think the Dunc sustains himself?
>>
does any one else paint their dudes while they are lying on their bed?
>>
>>53176900
take a pic of you doing this i dont believe you
>>
>>53176538
If you want your stuff to represent whatever's canon then... yes you probably need to paint it a specific way so others are able to identify it, Anon.

As far as
>Do I HAVE to
>does it MATTER

No, Anon. They're your toys. Do what you want.

Add to the existing stuff. Make something uniquely yours.
You're not committing any blasphemes by straying from canon.
>>
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>>53176538
>>
>>53176900
>>53176940

I wanna see your sheets. Your dirty paint crusted sheets. I wanna see how much of an animal you are.
>>
>>53165018
I like it a lot but i feel like the shadows could be deeper on the orange.
>>
>>53177169
Omg thank you so much

>>53177160
Thanks bro, going for Canon.
>>
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Cranked out my first squad of space marines. Still got a ways to go but these guys have some crazy details in there. What do you guys think?

Also.any tips for lenses? I just got them with a dab of moot green for the color but it's pretttndifficukt not to fuck up any surrounding area.
>>
Quick question about wet pallet: when using wet pallet is it required to thin paints or is the wet pallet enough?
>>
>>53172975
That black loos really good, very smooth.

What paint did you use for it? My abbadon black looks fucking awful even after thinning.
>>
>>53177281
Depends on the wetness of your pallette.
But in general you can use the wet pallette to thin your paints.
>>
>>53177275
Very nice, what did you use to shade them?

I recently did some blood angels and used mephiston red as a base, drybrushed with fleck and then shaded with agrax earthshade.

I think the agrax earthshade fucked it up because they turned out way too dark. Going to try nuln oil next (never used it before_
>>
>>53177281
Depends really. Sometimes you'll have to add a bit of water and sometimes you won't. Just gotta test it out.

Plop some paint on the pallet and if it doesn't move around nicely (b/c it's too thick) then add some water.

From my own experiences: blues, greens, yellows, and reds don't need as much thinning as black or brown. Usually.
>>
>>53177335
They are actually not shaded with a wash.

I airbrushed a base layer of Vallejo burnt umber and then blended it with evil sunz scarlet. The highlights are wild rider red.

Nuln will make them darker, since it is a black wash instead of a brown. I've had some good effects with the gloss washes, since I matte varnish anyway, the extra surface tension does a good job of keeping the coffee stain effect to a minimum.

If you trust your hand I would recommend some burnt umber and lahmian medium and shade the recesses. It just works great with the red
>>
>>53165918
A scion command squad and some last details on a taurox prime and wyvern
>>
>>53177353
Thank you for the tips Anon
>>
>>53177350
>>53177327
Thanks for the info lads
>>
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>>53176940
>>53177211
Fuck it. Behold my 'hobby area' in all it's glory. I don't really have a choice I rent a room in an apartment.
>>
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>>53177439
May as well post my WIP. shas ui and a couple of tau, about 1/3 done. Do you think a red helmet is a good idea?
>>
>>53177275
First ever squad?
If so looks great for a first time, nice smooth coverage and prob the first newb we don't need to bark thin your paints at.

Future golden demon right here
>>
>>53177439
Kinda disappointed, desu. Was expecting a bare mattress stained with your own filth and Nuln Oil. 0/10

>>53177452
>renting a room
>buying GW glue
lel
>>
>>53165918
Land speeder Vengeance, Half a tactical squad and a box of Wyches
>>
>>53165018
They look great!
>>
>>53167657
I don't know either, maybe try it on a test model or some leftover sprue to see if it does any damage
>>
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Making good progress. I still got the gun to paint, the eyes to actually find in there and do some drawing on the shoulder pads or something.
>>
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>>5317745
First ever space marine squad, actually first ever 40k minis started up an army for 8th edition.

I started out a few months ago painting sigmar minis, this is my second completed model
>>
>>53177749
Really like the layering with the blue and purple going on here and the color scheme goes great together.

Definitely needs some highlights, although I'm sure that is to come.

Here's my biggest complaint
>it doesn't fit nicely on its base
>>
>>53176134

I wish I had the skills to convert minis or even sculp one myself. Also I think that pic is from an older generation heroforge. The ones I've seen look a lot smoother.
>>
>>53177773
>Definitely needs some highlights
Right now the shine from the metallic undercoat gives really strong highlights (at least in person), which is good because I was looking for a "car paint" type of blue.

If I'm to paint some highlights on top, what did you have in mind?

>>it doesn't fit nicely on its base
Seems to be a problem with the miniature though. The legs are just too spread out. Do you have a suggestion to fix it? It's annoying me too.
>>
>>53165918
47 ironjaw models
55 ork models
the entire chaos side of DV
>>
>>53177877
>highlights
I'm not sure what colors you used for the blues and oranges so I can't give a reccomendstion on them, but a strong edge highlight on the bottom of each panel (like you have on the shoulder pad nearest to the viewer) with a nice zenith highlight will give you that car like effect. As for the mettalic parts, which don't stand out as much in the photo, I would recommend Vallejo air silver and pick out the sharpest points where light would catch. If you wanted to go really fancy you could mix your blue with some glaze medium (make it extremely thin) then gently glaze portions of the metal where you think light reflected from the panels would catch.

>base
If you aren't married to that base I'd just get a bigger one, I'm not super familiar with base sizes but a base like a space marine terminator captain might be big enough for him. Otherwise I would fix it by adding some thematic elements for him to stand on and or increase the circumference of the base.
>>
>>53177275
I feel the lighting fucks the colours up a lot, have you washed the recesses?
Also, you put the right arm of the heavy flamer guy way too low. See if you can bring it back up a bit.
Other than that and a few metal details missing, it's pretry good.
>>
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>>53177954
Base size: I'm not familiar either, I got these as a trade and they didn't come with the bases. Looking at the official pictures ( http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yBGszL3lpQg/U9LDcIJXdHI/AAAAAAAArhM/xhviVoGG574/s1600/orc.jpg ) and from what I remember from the rules, there's not much of a way around it.

>Highlights
The whole miniature is zenithal with Vallejo air Silver followed by Chrome, and I actually got some Sky Gray on the top part of the bare metallics. The entire thing is metallic, not just the steel.
>>
>>53178011
The recesses have not been washed yet, though I plan on it. The lighting does hurt the transitions and make them brighter, they are darker in person with more brown showing in shadowed areas.

Can you expand on the heavy flamer guy? I'm not seek g what you mean
>>
>>53177954
>>53178068
That said I definitively will some more edging now that you mentioned it. It doesn't "pop" enough when I turn off the desk lamp / simulate a game table.
>>
>>53178092
Replace Edging by Highlights, I can't type tonight...
>>
>>53163950
How did Duncan get on 4chan?
>>
>>53173566
Thanks for replying.

>test-fit and pose before gluing (blu-tac or "poster putty" is ideal for temporarily attaching components)
That's a good hint, second guy I did looked cool in my mind but odd after gluing.

>Also, "back-scraping" is far easier and safer (for both you and the models) than is trying to slice off the mold-lines, if you aren't already aware of how to do this.
I'm using that technique. I had a problem with things like head which just dissapears between my finger tips, or when it doesn't i can't really hold it in place and scrap at the same time.
Also knuckles, I'm not sure how to do them without destroying the shape of fingers. The space is tiny.


Another thing is the base.
I want to glue them to a normal round base chipping off their original one. I wonder if I should cut it off straight on the line of their soles, or leave small pieces under their boots for better gluing (pic related).
I'm planning to do basic basing with thick sand so I think that would help me keep their feet visible. What do you think?

Also is it safe to cut the base off after painting or should I glue it to a the new base right away?
>>
>>53169871
Oh god, make closer pics of knight and other thing, that looks like giant squig!
>>
Want to finally start my SM chapter for 8th

I originally designed them in DoW 1 with a similar blue to Storm Wardens but can't work out how I could paint them with current citadel line and also have them look distinct enough from ultramarines, spess wolves etc

How paint, anons?
>>
Has anyone been on like an organised painting course? If so would you say it's worth it. There's one near me soon but the price is pretty heavy. It's done by David Soper and his minis have always given me a boner
>>
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>>53178626
pic of the guys work
>>
>>53178626
>>53178637

If the money weren't the matter I'd say go for it.
But if they are, is there anything this guy can show to you that can't be seen online? He will not give you any secret, forbidden technique.
Plus you will be a part of a larger group probably.
>>
>>53175974
>>53177808
have you tried reaper minis yet?
They have a huuuge catalog. As long as you got a D&D or Pathfinder style character you are trying to represent they should have you covered.
>>
>>53178334
You really don't need to lose the mushroom bases on those Frostgrave minis; they're not that tall. I used some cheap plumber's putty (a 2 part epoxy clay, like greenstuff) to smooth the join after I glued them down onto the base, sort of like they're standing on a hill. Once you get some sand on the base, you really don't notice the extra height. If you're really worried about it, I'd cut around the feet with a pair of clippers, then sand down to level - trying to cut horizontally across usually ends up with the cut going high and losing some sole.
>>
>>53177275
I've heard that a line of white scar on the lens and then using waywatcher green gives good results.
This is the tutorial where they do that, idkif that's the effect you're looking for: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9HzqHVg1uE
>>
>>53177681
yeah I have one sacrificial lamb guy that got damaged earlier testing paint strippers so he's gonna tell me
I suppose it should work since oil paint or not, dry is dry and acrylic wash should do the job
>>
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Finished this earlier to put on my Darkstrider's base. He'll be sneakan behind it.
>>
>>53178757
The group looks to be set at 16 max. I might just do it as I learn better if I can be told what I personally am doing wrong. £160 though
>>
>>53179523
£160 for 1 class?
>>
What is the best way to do some weathering on armour, like scrathes and minor battle damage? I've tried drybrushing, but it seems bit off to me.
>>
>>53178626
They can be worth it if you're seriously interested in moving on to display painting, but honestly with the huge number and variety of painting tutorials online you've got plenty of other free options for that.
>>
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>>53163303
hey my brother bought these secondhand and are wondering what kit they came from.

Any info would be welcome
>>
>>53180064
Space Marine Veterans
>>
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>>53180107
thanks, Anon
>>
>>53165018
cloaks looking a little flat but they should look great on the board good job
>>
>>53165964
betrayal at calth
30 forge world noise marines
defiler
Triumverate of Ynnead
2 1/2 get started skitarii boxes minus tech priests
knight arm and base
Dark eldar farseer conversion
rhino/razorback
probably some random Dark vengance marines somewhere
and some necron warriors and ghost arks back from 6th edition
think thats everything
>>
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>>53165918
How big is my backlog? Let's see here...

Bloodbowl: Ogre, orc and dwarf teams.

Kings of War: ~2000 points of Ogres, ~1000 points of Varangur, ~100 Undead figures, ~60 Dark Elves of various kinds, 25 chaos dwarfs (+24 slave orcs) and a dozen or so high elves.

Dystopian Wars: ~1000 points Polish-Lithuanian air force

Force-on-Force: 78 African Militia in 1/72 (haven't even arrived yet, but they still need painting)

Flames of War: German Late War Machine Gun, Mortar, Nebelwerfer and panzergrenadier platoons

15mm: A small boxful of Teutonic Order figures

6mm: ~200 Early Imperial Romans, mostly archers

40K: ~50 Tyranids (might sell them), ~20 Guardsmen, ~50 Chaos Space Marines infantry of various kinds, some Delaque gangers from Necromunda,

Other: ~120 28mm Sengoku Japanese, ~100+ Reaper Bones from the kickstarter a few years back, Mighty Empires Campaign set

I'm kind of surprised that this list isn't longer, since I've been buying a bunch of stuff. I guess I've been productive lately, and I'm pleased that my completed collection dwarfs the backlog.
>>
>>53180762
Oh wait, I missed a few boxes.

There is ~80 Perry War of the Roses figures as well. And a couple of kits of plastic modular 40K-suitable terrain I never intend to get around to. A fair few scratch-built cork buildings for the modern Middle East need painting too.
>>
>>53165834
Dat sum Doppelganger my friend?

Looks pretty good.
How'd you do the meat?
>>
>>53165918
Sigh.

>80 death korps of krieg need to be cleaned, assembled, painted (CAP)
>34 perry DAK need to be P
>20 late war germans CAP
>15 tau crisis suits in various stages of CAP
>60 tau strikers, breachers and drones in various stages of CAP.
>8 stealthsuits need P
>1 riptide CAP
>1 devilfish transport needs P
>1 panzer 3 just P
>1 stuG just P
>1 sd. Kfz 222 needs P
>1 Hanomag halftrack needs P


Nott gonna lie, kinda wish I hadn't gotten the riptide or late war germans. Definitely some impulse buys.
>>
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Besides the eyes, which im still working on, how does it look ?
>>
Alright /wip/, I want to do something stupid with fluorescent paints, what's the best option out there that provides a good balance between range of colors and usefulness as a mini paint?
>>
>>53163365
Well I hope you collect Death Guard anon.
>>
>>53165249
That looks bigger than a GW dwarf bro
>>
>>53181128
looks good outside of the green bit on the nose, obviously. and that flap surrounding the face is supposed to be part of the uniform.
>>
>>53181217
Ah, i can fix the nose, and the flap outside is a result of my shaky hands

Thanks for the feedback though
>>
>>53178626
>>53179523
If you aren't already basically plateaud at "as good as I can possibly be without professional help", turning out some of the best painted models at your club/FLGS, then I would suggest no.

Unless you've got the £200 kicking around completely spare and nothing to do that day.

But if you aren't already a really great painter I'd question what you's actually be getting out of it.
>>
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I am confused about something, am I supposed to use a primer before using this or is this a primer as well?
>>
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>>53180064
Shit, these were my first models. I painted them even worse.
>>
>>53165918
10 Pathfinder
7 fire warriors
2 XV 8 Crisis
1 Ethereal
10 Dire Avengers
20 Eldar Guardians
1 Farseer
12 Harlequins
2 Starweaver
15 Deathwatch Veterans
10 Deathwatch Vanguards
And a fuckton of nekrons

I really should stick to one army or atleast not dump tons of money into unpainted miniatures. I'm just painting sooo sloooow
>>
>>53181382
The official, GW-approved answer is that the color sprays can be used on bare plastic, but contain less of the bonding agent that makes the white and black primers stick.

YMMV, basically. Lots of people in the army painting division apparently skip priming when using the sprays.
>>
>>53165918
Luckily it's pretty manageable rn since I pretty much sold everything I had that I wasn't using or painting.

>10x SCE Vanguard Hunters
>3x SCE Vanguard Raptors
>3x SCE Vanguard Palladors
>1x SCE Lord Veritant
>1x SCE Lord Aquilor
I got ten days to paint them but I should be able to pull it off. And then
>10x Ork Flash Gitz
>10x Gretchins + Runtherd
>1x Badrukk
>6x Ammo runtz

That's it. I'm fine.
>>
>>53165918
I just wish I had motivation
>Tau
1 Commander
2 Ethereal
1 Fireblade
1 Ghostkeel
2 Broadside
9 Crisis
30 Firewarriors
10 Pathfinders
1 Sniper drone team
2 Devilfish
1 Piranha
6 Stealth suits
20~ drones
>Space Marines
20 Tacticals
10 Assaults
10 Devastators
5 Veterans
>>
>>53174774
A fuckton of bases for my Traresh'ken Dynasty Necron. The flyer bases for the trash destroyers are still missing thou. Thanks GW
>>
>>53181575
fug, left out the rest of the prospero box
5 sisters
5 custodes
5 terminators
>>
>>53181568
>playing Stormcast
fuck off
>>
>>53181499
Thanks, guess I'll have to find a sacrifice to test it on
>>
>>53165918
I will try to remember everything seeing as i wasn't big into painting untill recently and even now i dont paint a whole lot

Chaos
30 rubric
10 terminators
90 pink horrors
5 heralds
3 lords of change
1 soul grinder
18 flamers
12 screamers
40 blue horrors
40 brimstone
1 magnus
80 bloodleters
9 blood crushers
80 daemonets
20 seakers
3 exalted chariots
40 plague bearers
epidimus
1 helbrute
2 exalted sorcerers
exalted greater daemon of slaanesh
5 chariots of tzeentch
2 changlings

Tyranids

200 gaunts
40 geanstealers
2 tyrantguard
9 warriors
3 carnifex
1 harpy
5 tyrannocytes
1 exocryn

space marines

1 Praetor
40 tacticals
30 specialists
20 veterens
10 sword bretheren
15 cataphractii
10 tartaros
2 contemptors
1 ironclad
1 vindicator
3 landraiders
3 rhinos
3 drop pods

Undead

80 skeletons
60 zombies
3 mortarchs
30 grave guard
1 mortis engine
1 zombie dragon
20 black knights
20 hex wraith
6 spirit hosts

Bone Splittas

100 boys
20 boar boys
8 characters

this is what i remember off the top
>>
>>53165918
4 squads of guardsmen (40 models)
1 platoon command squad (5 models)
1 company command squad (5 models)
1 commisar
1 lord commisar
1 heavy weapons squad (3 models)
1 special weapons squad (6 models)
1 leman russ

could be worse i suppose
>>
>>53181761
godspeed on this quest
>>
>>53181761
WHAT THE FUCK JUST PAINT YOUR SHIT BEFORE YOU BUY MORE SHIT JESUS FUCK
>>
>>53163681
check out vallejo or army painter. my suggestion is to go all in. get the right spray can color, pick out details and skin or armor (max 40% of model) with a brush. then use army painter dip. it's the best way for large nids armies
>>
>>53165759
get some cork board from a craft store, rip up some strips or disks or them and super glue them together so they stack ontop of eachother, put some rubble or sand in random areas and paint! I use clestra grey base coat, wash nuln oil and then dry brush white make for a decent slate/stone base. Pin the model is though, else it will come off pretty easily
>>
>>53181761
oh remembered the last 2

Orks

20 killa cans
3 deafdread
1 gorkanaught
1 morkanaught
20 flashgits
5 characters

Skitari

60 infantry
10 dragoons
10 stalkers
3 crawlers
>>
>>53181903
what the fuck m8
>>
>>53181761
one last group

Lamenters

20 sternguard
20 vanguard
20 tacticals
1 dreadnaught
>>
File: IMG_20170423_113151.jpg (2MB, 2160x3840px) Image search: [Google]
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Posting my mk4 White Scars, going for a anime/drawn look, used a micron pen for the ressesses.


The copper is Vellajo liquid copper, best paint I've used.


Still working on him, promise you that the paint isn't thick or patchy IRL, phone camera isn't that good. I'll bust out my DSLR tonight.
>>
>>53182033
>2Mb
>out of focus
>>
>>53182033
>white scars
>anime/drawn look
>can't fucking use a phone camera

Gee I wonder what kind of person you might be
>>
>>53182033
>anime/drawn look
kys you fucking autist
>>
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>>53182033
>Starting with pure white
Yeah fuck highlights and having to use three layers of paint to correct any mistakes
>>
>>53182033
Promise me you'll eat your paints and shove the minis up your ass.
>>
>>53182033
I want to violate that downy scar with my dick
>>
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Had some slaaneshi fun today.
>>
>>53176113
>lascannon
haha no
>>
>>53182286
love it.

>>53178637
this is bonkers

>>53175518
so good man
>>
>>53182489
Well whatever is equal to antiarmour stuff.
>>
>>53182286
Should have made him purple and given him blonde hair.

for instance, penises
>>
>>53163303
Shit picture I know, but give me some honest critism. Only been modelling for a couple of months, this is my first veteran and 11th model I've painted, what do I need to work on?
>>
>>53182722
>>
>>53182722
>>53182782
>>
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Upside of a stomach bug means a day off work and a bit of focus on painting. Finished and varnished this guy.

>>53182586
Thank you.
>>
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>>53182802
And posting my army because I'm feeling good about progress. Got 19 plaguebearers currently wip.
>>
>>53182814
My portfolio is close to null but this gives me weird boner.
Noice werk.
>>
>Want a St. Celestine model
>Got no army to use her on
>Don't even have half of the paints needed to paint her
>I get paid soon but can only afford either the box set or the paints

What do /Wip/? Have you ever bought a model for an army / game you don't play just because you like it?
>>
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Any tips for converting a vehicle into another vehicle? I'm going to start a guard force for 8th and I'm not a fan of the Leman Russ, so I thought I'd convert one out of a model I like more. The model I have in mind currently is the Sicaran, since I want my guard force to be reasonably high tech in aesthetic.
I'm just trying to figure out how to do it, I don't really have a lot(read:any) of experience converting models. My current ideas are to buy a leman russ turret, sand off the rivets and see if I can force it onto the top of the tank.
Another idea is to steal a turret from the Deimos predator and see if that fits, since the weapon is modular and the round turret fits the aesthetic. A problem would be that it might be too small.
The idea I'd prefer, but takes more effort and skill, is to convert that turret so that it would accept a side-mounted battlecannon/other LR weapon (eg the Prowler from Planetside 2). The thing is, this also has the possibility of being ridiculous looking.

So, ya, I just wanted to bounce the idea off of someone before I take the plunge of buying it from Chinaman. Am I in over my head?
>>
>>53182814
Every time you post your stuff it makes me happy.
it's sooo refreshing to see a nurgle army that isn't just LOL MESS EVERYWHERE
>>
does anyone have that pictoral tutorial on how to make a grey-knight termie helmet out of a regular terminator helm?
>>
>>53182722
He looks pretty good looks like you kept your paints reasonably thin but i think some edge highlights on the armor would would really complete him and/or some battle damage
>>
>>53182998
Yea, all the time.
>>
>>53183078
Practice with non-resin models first.

For a first project you're in way too deep, also, don't convert from chinacast, china resin should be finessed and sealed asap, the less cutting, sawing and scraping the better.
>>
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Aaaaand my second minia is done.

Pretty happy about the pipes.

Pretty demoralized about the highlights.

Is ulthuan grey too light for edges?
Thanks for any tips
>>
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>>53183615
From another angle
>>
>>53183615
>>53183631

Last one, managed to try the eye glow, I'm still unconvinced about the effect.
>>
>>53183615
The white on the face is really nice and the green blending on the gun cable is great, I can't wait to see you paint more stuff.
The grey is pretty light, it could stand to be a little bit darker, I don't use GW colours so I can't really offer any advice there though.
>>
>>53183615
Did you try OSL and abandon it or am I mis-remembering?
>>
>>53182814
Fucking rainbow puke nurgle daemons. Looks good
>>
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>>53183665
And forgot the fucking pic like a summerboy

>>53183667
Thanks pal, I realized at the end I should have probably used something darker but it was too late. Still way too shaky but close to the end of the minia I felt like I was getting slightly more familiar with the technique.

>>53183698
I tried NMM on the bayonet and failed miserably
>>
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I like to think that I've improved.
>inb4 no basing done on new Celestine
>>
>>53183722
Your OSL (what you call glow, not sure if you're familiar with the term) on the eyes is really nice actually, could go even lighter closer to the source. Definitely got the skill to apply the same technique to the weapons now
>>
My local shop is doing a painting competition and the only requirement is that it's Space Marine related. I don't play 40k, so I'm looking to buy a single model (cheap from ebay, preferably) to paint up for this. Any recommendations for a particular sculpt?
>>
>>53183551
Thanks for the advice, I figured since I was just messing with the turret it would be a good idea for a first conversion. I didn't know chinacast wasn't good for conversions.
>>
>>53167417
I wouldn't suggest starting off with NMM techniques yet. Keep it simple. Looking really good right now
>>
>>53183901
The Space Marine Terminator Chaplain (with the skull head) has long been a favourite sculpt of mine.

Captain Lysander is also a very nice sculpt imo
>>
>>53183901
A chaplain or librarian, off the cuff; greebly while still being relatively quick to paint.
>>
>>53183901
Emperor's champion is a great model
>>
>>53182814
Damn man how do you do those colors? It looks fantastic
>>
>>53182722
I'd add bright(ish) highlights to the armor edges. I like cartoony look on my models though.
>>
>>53181420
that shouldn't be possible
>>
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>>53183615
>>53183722
you are a natural, good job.
>>
>>53183722
looks good!

Ive been sanding my shoulder pads smooth, have I been doing it wrong?
>>
>>53179481
Bumping for feedback please
>>
>>53183914
Resin is brittle and has unhealthy dust, chinese knockoffs, even moreso.
>>
>>53179481
How is it done?
>>
>>53184935
Many thanks mate, actually I feel a little ashamed in posting after something like this >>53182814 but I have improved over the first miniature and I'm having fun.

>>53184961
There is indeed a gap in between the shoulder pads, have no idea how to bridge it so i just "insisted" a little bit with the paint to try to smooth it over.
>>
>>53185195
Glued some static grass flock in patches, usually in nooks and crannies. Painted the entire thing with the old orkhide shade foundation, layered progressively smaller areas with orkhide/catachan, catachan, catachan/vallejo sick, vallejo sick and then goblin green.

Put some small dabs of blazing orange with black to represent dirt/lichen and gave the entire thing a devlan mud wash, then picked out small highlights with goblin green and a tiny dab of sunburst yellow on the tips. Any good?
>>
>>53185797
Bugger. For >>53185437
>>
Finished this Terminator (and two of this battle brothers) last night, doing proper bases and attaching them later this evening (Desert setting bases to conform with my tactical squad). (Lack of lamps makes for a very meh picture)
>>
>trying to do blending without using a wet palette
I have made an error
>>
Anyone know of a proper sized WWII or WWI artillery piece I could use for an IT basilisk, medusa or colossus carriage proxy? Really done want to sell a kidney for forge world prices
>>
>>53183615
looking great might wont to get some liquid green stuff to smooth over those joins on the shoulders i remember get really annoyed about that when i was painting mine as well
>>
>>53185826
Backside
>>
>>53185826
>>53185926
it lacks color. You did a pretty good job, but why is the paint so grainy?
>>
>>53185922
>liquid green stuff
Does that shit even work? I remember hearing some bad things
>>
>>53182722
>>53182782
>>53182793
Highlights my dude
>>
>>53175394
How much time?

Keeps rubbing off on my hands.
>>
>>53185989
It doesn't look so grainy on the model itself, it's dry brushed for a dusty look so I think my phone camera likes to pick it up and make it look bigger, don't really know.
Probably taking the picture too close as well.
Going to have to go purchase a few desk lamps to take proper pictures when everything is done.

As for color the Dark Angles are pretty flat, most of the color is in the copper colored trinkets, these guys are darker. Usually Death Wing are done in a more bone white, but I'm a fan of the dust color I used (I also have like two pots of the stuff, so the other eight terminators have enough paint to go around haha)
I'm also color blind so it guess it doesn't bother me too much. I'n the future I'll probably make a few weapons different colors for different terminators.
Besides it's grim "dark" :P
>>
>>53178626
>>53178637
I mean the dude litteraly won the last Golden Demon. HOWEVER, ask yourself if it's worth it. Like are you zlready at the limits of your own self taught skill? Can you do what Duncan does flawlessly? Can you NMM? Can you wet blend? That sort of things? If not, I doubt it'll be worth the price, you might not profit from the guy's advices as much as you could necause you don't have what he considers "the basics".
Learn to walk before you try to run, that sort of stuff.
>>
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>>53186252
I paint DA as well brother. I just meant it could use some more green and red.
>>
How do I get a multimelta arm for my dreadnought?

The VenDread kit didn't come with one.
>>
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>>53185826
>>53185926
>drybrushing your guys instead of taking your time to highlight them in steps

When will it end?
>>
>>53186465
Look up assault on black reach dreadnought arm, or buy it from forgeworld, I think they're still selling them.
>>
>>53186505
it's been going on longer than you've been into this hobby and will continue long after you die, it will never stop.
>>
>>53186505
lel, there's almost no difference between edge highlighting and drybrushing
things like wet blending are just a waste of time and look shit anyway
>>
>>53186465
the Space Wolves Venerable Dreadnought kit has one
>>
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>>53186594
>lel, there's almost no difference between edge highlighting and drybrushing
>>
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>>53186594
>>
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>>53186594
>no difference
>>
>>53186594
I know this is bait, but holy shit did this post give me cancer.
>>
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>>53186594
>no difference between edge highlighting and drybrushing
Yeah, right.
>>
>>53186018
ive had some sucess with it its obviously better to do it before painting so you can smooth it down if need be but has been good for hiding the joins on skitarii cloaks for example
>>
>>53186668
those are some nice termies man
>>
>>53186689
huh good to know
>>
>>53186018
Liquid GS is a godsend when it comes to filling gaps, I highly suggest you check it out.
>>
>>53185922
I'll try this as soon as I locate a suitable re sellesr for the stuff in my country
Thanks for the tip, it really looked weird in the beginning with that noticeable gap..
Anyway, primed the third one in white, already understanding the mistake.
>>
>>53186787
might just do that then
>>
>>53186454
Red Green color blind works against me brother. (also a lack of proper paints, I had to base my tactical squad in Waaagh Green ~Heresy~ they came out alright.)
Red/Green is also very Christmas (Another season I can only see shades of grey in)
I do have some Evil Sunz Red I used for the seals that I should try on a few of them next time I paint.

>>53186505
Never. Because I'm casual as fuck, and I prefer the visual result of dirty dry brushing.
Gritty realism is my preference for these models in particular.
But it also depends on what I'm painting, Eldar/Necron/Tyranid are probably better suited for layering (I haven't painted any so I wouldn't know). Anything clean I'd probably use a mixture of layered highlighting and dry brushing.
Also the base, setting is important to bringing the model together.
Spent three months on a death world and yet somehow they still have pristine power armor?
Regular sandstorms? How would I tell?
But hey art is subjective.
>>
>>53186995
>Red Green color blind
I can understand how that could be a problem
>>
>>53181761
>>
>>53179689
A weekend
>>
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I'm trying to build an entire ten man squad of wounded guardsmen. So far idea wise I have:
2 different medics to tend to them
1 untended trooper holding a bleeding gut wound
1 trooper with a bandaged face and arm
1 trooper with an eyepatch and a different wounded arm
1 metal trooper from an old cadian command squad with a bleeding shoulder
And now I'm working to make one new guy from old parts, and since every wound up until now has been above the belt I'm looking to fashion some leg wounds.

So here's why I came to WiP: I'm thinking of fashioning a splint to go around a trooper's legs. But before I went any further I figured I should ask the uncaring anons if this splint thing was a good idea or just fucking stupid.

Pictured: The two rings that will hold the leg in place and one of the 2 or 3 poles intended to connect them together.
>>
>>53187825
Here's a suggest anon, instead of a stick use a lasgun if it can fit, makes more sense and might be more aesthetically pleasing
>>
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Got 9 hours to kill on my nightshift, boss lets me bring my models in. Working on some Skitarri Vanguard, just got the layers on the robes looking half decent, starting to the armour and wood areas. Mars pattern because its fucking dappa.

All advice/criticism welcome
>>
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>>53188135
Close up of alpha
>>
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>>53188179
First layers of iron, bronze and wood. Long way to go
>>
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I'm about to start painting up some Steel Legion dudes for a SWA event at my local store, but I'm not sure what the base color of the coat should be. Art shows them in a sort of mustard yellow coat, but the images on the GW site show them painted a sort of khaki color. It basically boils down to whether I should use averland sunset or zandri dust. Any ideas?
>>
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>>53188210
A finished ranger that I'm using as a reference
Thread posts: 364
Thread images: 97


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