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WIP

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Thread replies: 353
Thread images: 115

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POST BLOOD BOWL AND OTHER SPECIALTY GAME PROGRESS

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
>Currently offline

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Panther, I need Charlie Zone status. Report!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzWP-C8oDPw

>Previous Threads:
>>51603978
>>51574994
>>
So I'm trying to go for an ice theme with my harlequins, kind of like pic.

What colors/paints would be good to get that look?
>>
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Well, here's my thrower, mates
>>
hear me out hear me out hear me out...

squig in a hamster wheel
>>
>>51647390
>squig chasing snotling in a wheel
>>
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>>51647438
Malifaux kind of has that already
>>
To the dude with the blue Easterlings - nice job, what shield was that?
>>
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>tfw suddenly no longer so sure about my tank colour scheme
>>
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Putting tyranid extra armor plates on the skinks, and mk.III shoulder pauldrons for pads on the saurus. Dont have a picture yet, but the carnosaur is my coach model. He has a torn ref shirt dangling from a tooth and goofy shoes on the ground, like he ate the ref.

Should I use regular saurus? Or temple guard? Temple guard have helmets and some additional bits on them, but I can only get some with shields and I'd rather them go without shields.
>>
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>>51646984
Almost finished with my icon of despair, only the grey parts're left.
I like to use it with my spare points (it's just 10 after all), for fluff reasons. And also because it's fucking hilarious to watch a my opponents face when he realises that on top of my plague marines having T5, 5+ feel no pain and defensive grenades, now he's hitting them on 6's.
>>
>>51647390
As the owner of that model where would I even find a squig model that small?
>>
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>>51648460
Aaaaaaan I forgot to resize it again. Sorry.
>>
>>51648460
They look very nice, what's the green recipe?

Death World Forest in there somewhere?
>>
>>51648137
Its fine, stop fishing for compliments like some bitch
>>
What models do you HATE working on?
For me it's DKoK and SW. Too bad that's what 75% of my commissions are.
>>
>>51648587
I was really thinking about the possibility of changing my colour scheme to something more monotone that would show off the weathering mud and powders better, too bad I decided to weather it up already so I can't just spray over it.
>>51648616
Flyers. I can't stand clear parts.
>>
>>51648137
You gonna put your dudes in Multicam?
>>
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>>51648504
hey, thanks, here's the recipe:
1. vallejo green grey
2. wash with a mix of agrax earthshade and seraphin sepia 50/50 (I wash twice for a more brownish tone)
3. highlight with very watered down green grey
4. more highlighting with watered down green grey
4. edge highlights with green gray/ushabti bone (or some other bone white) 50/50 or something like that

The key here is to highlight with a very watered down paint (mine's almost transparent). I also apply watered down seraphin sepia here and there at the end, to make it more yellowish in places.

I use the exact same method on my tanks/dreadnoughts.

Pic related is the finished result. You can also spot the icon bearer there, before he got an arm swap.
>>
>>51648640

Thank you for taking the time to write that, you, ironically, have a beautiful force.
>>
>>51648629
>Flyers. I can't stand clear parts
I agree, I usually paint all of my cockpits in a nice mirrored or glossy black
>>
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>>51648634
SS peadot/Flecktarn, actually. I just suddenly started pining for the WW1 aesthetic because I want my IG to be trench-dwelling infantry.
>>51648678
I usually go and paint the cockpit up in basic colours, it's the frames I can't stand. And trying to glue the clear parts in place.
>>
>>51648137
Found your problem. Ders no red paint. And a lackin of gubbins and bitz.

Tanks are rather bland models.
>>
>>51648709
I wish I had some of those older Leman Russes. Those had bitz and gubbins. Not so much anymore.
>>
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>>51648656
Thanks again for the compliment. I honestly with I could paint faster though, I've been painting my army for the past 4 months, and all I've managed to finished were:
- 2 Rhinos
- 2 units of Plague marines (if you count the one I'm working on right now)
- a unit 3 Terminators
- a Dreadnought

And I still have to finish:
- 5 Obliterators
- 5 Havovs with autocannons
- 10 Cultits
- 5 plague Bikers
- a Lord on a bike
- a freaking detatchment of nurgle daemons I decided to pick before christmas which includes a GUO, 10 Plaguebearers and a unit of 5 Nurglings, because who needs a fully painted army


Come to think of it, I propably shouldn't attempt to paint things like pic related WITH A BRUSH.
>>
>>51648872
>painting vehicles without the aid of an airbrush
masochism at it's finest. that's a sweet rhino tho
>>
>>51648872

I'm going to need you to sell me your army
>>
My new terrain pieces in use for the first time in a kill team mission
>>
>>51648974
>>
>>51648974
Fits the table really well. Out of curiosity, which gaming mat is that? I've been looking for something of this colour.
>>
>>51648974
>>51649012
I'd like to know as well
>>
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The boat is nearing completion. I don't know why the pictures so dark

>>51648872
I feel your pain. I'm too retarded for an airbrush I feel
>>
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Reposting from last thread. Looking for more to work with that I may have missed other than cleanup and gaps.
I've gotten weathering, don't know why I spaced on that one but I'll be adding typhus corrosion in places to chip it out.
Also going to add mud to the tracks. Particularly in the shittier places (it's chinaman)
>>
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Made an exalted. Glory-hungry axeman. Expect him to attack once and die.
>>
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>>51649079
>that impaled guardsman
Not gonna lie, that's pretty fucking brutal. And I love it.
>>
>>51649012
>>51649027

here you go
http://www.gamemat.eu/our-products/battle-mats/6-x4-g-mats/6-x4-g-mat-fallout-zone/sk/
>>
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I've found a suitable whale model to turn into my Biologis Stormbird. Mentioned it a little bit ago, I'll order it up tomorrow, it'll be a while before it's over from America though.

Model is apparently 24" long and 14" fintip to fintip, I want to remove a lot of the belly and back to replace with the gondola/gantry and the upper deck.
Says it's Resin, but I'm not sure how you go about slicing up resin models that big, and I assume it's hollow. Any things to avoid/do? Do NOT want to fuck this up, it'll cost me enough.

Also taking suggestions for things to put on it, other than the two twin-linked lascannon each side, one twin Hbolter turret per wing and one at the back that will be swappable for another twin lascannon, so I can pick 30k or 40k. Turrets are probably going to be the Firestorm Redoubt quad-las turrets, one each side on platforms coming off the gondola.

Can anyone think of any cool gubbins? Mechanicum, so obviously diesel/atompunk if possible.
>>
>>51649173
thanks m8
that looks perfect for kill team
needs more explosive red barrels though
>>
>>51649079
I love it, but... I don't know... there's just something odd about the sail
>>
>>51649210
that does look suitable. 24" also seems more reasonable compared to the length you mentioned last time. I have no idea how to work with resin though.
>>
>>51648137
I thought that blue light was a sweet osl.
>>
>>51649220

thanks. My circle recently spent a lot of time getting all the terrain painted up.

This gamemat is really good since its design kinda blends with everything you put on it. and for killteam missions on a 4'x4' surface we just block 12" on each end with nonstop terain. then each player gets a strip to place dice, codicies, reserves and such.
>>
>>51649270
Slightly longer than the actual Sokar Pattern Stormbird, but the "Wings" aren't as wide and a lot of the length is tail, which evens it out well enough. The proxy rules of size and shape get a bit loose at this point. since it's not likely that once I put it on a suitable stand that you'll struggle to draw Line of Sight.

I'll look up the resin stuff if noone here knows, I just like getting new ideas for stuff to mount on the thing.
>>
>>51649235

It needs a skull.
>>
>>51649374
Hmm... I dunno, you might be right. I think its because the transfer looks too perfect. Perhaps if you were to put on a skull it would have to be free-handed, and not a transfer, otherwise it'll still look weird.
>>
>>51649336
adding compartments and fuel sockets or whatnot that are not directly related to weapon systems will probably look cool too. its probably also important to work with the seam between flesh and machine so it doesnt look like a normal whale thats been cut into but looks like the whale grew around/with the parts with discoloration and scarification.
>>
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Rate my reparation skills.
>>
>>51649423
Yeah, I'm getting some GW vehicles to add suitable stuff, so either a Baneblade, Stormraven or Land Raider to break up for parts. Going to also need a lot of greenstuff, which is also something I haven't worked with much before.

Also I have a whole War Convocation's worth of Admech spares, so I can decorate the place a bit. Re. the joins, those will probably be sorted fairly late in the build, since by then I'll know where all the bits are actually going exactly. Haven't thought about how I'll paint that up much, honestly.
>>
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Their fluff is they're from a planet where the planetary governor is an edgy teenager named Craig who is obsessed with the DKOK and makes the planetary regiment wear knockoff brand DKOK uniforms. Thus, they are the Death Korps of Craig
>>
>>51649490
itll probably look good if you get weapon mounts with both vertical/horizontal movement, i can imagine some big searchlights that surveys the battlefield/landing zone as well. This project of yours is quite something. im getting all kinds of ideas.
>>
>>51649516
I really like these. The white coats with mud remind me of WWII modelers and how they paint their troops. Good job anon.

Only thought would be to maybe dull down those gas mask tubes a little bit with a wash or something.
>>
>>51649441
Are you a spider?
>>
>>51649554
I know, right? I've been thinking about it for a few weeks, it's gone through a few iterations, and I thought it was a pipe dream until I realized a few days ago there's nothing actually stopping me from just doing it.

If the Firestorm Quadlas turrets don't let me move them in all directions I can always magnet them up., seeing as they're going to represent two seperate twin-linked lascannons instead of one quadgun. Re. searchlights, might have a couple on railings and such, and I have cyber-occularis squid things to do my scouting for me. Not going to mount too many things on the upper deck, otherwise it will look a bit cluttered. Probably replace one or both whale eyes with lenses and such.
>>
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>>51649441
jesus fucking christ, is that what happens when an assault termie tries to strike a warhound titan?
>>
>>51649574
Thanks for the suggestion; I was on the fence about the brightness of the tubes already.
>>
>>51649630
one of the eyes could get a small cluster of lenses in different sizes with cables running in and out of the skin. I feel like making a crazy project now. However i play Dark angels so theres not much funny business there.
>>
>>51649725
Good call. Weaving the cables in might be a bit fiddly. Maybe make some greenstuff cables and stick them to the skin, then make a flap of skin to cover the ends, so it looks like it's slightly grown round them? I'll see if I can find enough spare lenses to do an eye cluster.
>>
>>51649441
You trying to make him flash gang signs, anon?
>>
>>51649516
Thats goofy but hilariously plausible.
>>
What painting communities are worth lurking and not full of trannies and SJWs banning any one who posts a demonette with it's titties hanging out?
>>
>>51649811
You're in the only one worth mentioning right now
>>
>>51649811
Sounds like you've got a story to tell.
>>
>>51649811
coolminiornot, or just post here, we're ok with tits on minis.
actualy, forget the minis, you can post just the tits.
>>
>>51649874
Sounds like he just got kicked out of DakkaDakka
>>
>>51649917
how do you even do that
>>
>>51649932
apparently posting sexy daemonettes will do the trick.
>>
>>51649823
The quality of work here is pretty low though. I'd like to find things to aspire to not just telling people to thin their paints. I help people around here but I would also like to have peers who challenge my skill level and make me want to do better.

>>51649874
Don't we all have the same story in this regard? We join a normiebook group, find a forum or a hang out and then just as you settle in you find out one of the admins is a tranny who causes drama and all the betas worship the ground he walks on to try and see the fake boobs? It's happened to me like 3 times now and I just don't care to support communities like that.

I posted on Wyrd's forum a while back with the old Zoraida model. It's an old woman with her saggy boobs out. Thread for deleted pretty quickly but Malifaux has drawn the SJW crowd so it's hardly a shock.

>>51649917
Dakka dakka is okay but I'm interested in upcoming things too.
>>
>these thread get me interested in painting
>Duncan makes it look easy
>buy some fire warriors, paints, and brushes
THEY ARE SO FUCKING SMALL HOLY SHIT. I guess that's what they mean by miniature. How do you people do it? Edge highlight the armour panels? The individual armour panels are microscopic!
>>
>>51649932
I remember one guy a long time ago got banned for literally mixing his paints with his semen to paint his 'Nids, along with gluing his own hair clippings to them, amongst other things. Personally I thought it was fucking hilarious and he didn't deserve a ban over it.
>>
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>>51649992
Are you for fucking real
>>
>>51649989
Duncan only makes it look easy because he's been painting for over a decade. It all comes down to practice and willingness to improve. You're lucky that we live in an age where you can watch all sorts of tutorials like Duncan's for free easily. As for edge highlighting, the best way I've seen to do it is to hold the brush at an angle so you're just hitting the edge of what you want highlighted with the side of your brush instead of the tip.
>>
>>51649992
We need evidence of this..

Semen basing when?
>>
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>>51649992
>mixing his paints with his semen to paint his
>>
>>51650011
I can confirm, I was there for that. Didn't some asshole on here try to sell a Wraithknight he painted with cum?
>>
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>>51650011
>>51650040
Here's a pic of his hair clippings one. He's also apparently used crushed blueberries as a dip wash for some of his 'Nids, amongst other things. Here's a link to his gallery - I dunno if he got unbanned or if they never deleted it but the dude is a grade-A weird fuck and honestly not very good at painting.

https://www.dakkadakka.com/core/gallery-search.jsp?p=1&u=34764&ll=3&auction=0&unapproved=0&coolnesslow=0&coolnesshigh=10&paintjoblow=0&paintjobhigh=10&sort1=7&sort2=0&skip=30&en=&st=&utype=&start=0

I'm gonna pour over this entire damn thing to find evidence of the semen paints now.
>>
>>51650130
Here's another where he apparently used his own blood for a wash.
>>
>>51650130
We need to make an infograph about how not to paint models with this guy's shit.
>>
>>51650196
Probably, but look at the nuts he put on that tyranid. Guy's got some pretty funny conversion work going on, he's just too insane to paint.
>>
>>51648872
Dr anon here. Very good work on those, you've even grouped the crops of the blisters together in a believable way.
>>
>>51650243
Dr of what?
MD?
>>
>>51650130
Sexspacemarine.jpg
>>
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>>51650130
>>51650158
>>51650343
what the flying fuck
I don't know whether to be disgusted or impressed
>>
>>51650130
>>51650158
>>51650343
So is he insane or just a troll?
>>
>>51649210
>avoid
Obviously, don't put much pressure on it. If it's hollow it'll probably shatter.
>do
Find a FINE saw - something that won't just tear it apart. I've got pretty much pic related which I got for 11USD, and it's nice for small/soft work due to the spacing of the teeth.
>>
>>51650479
Yes.
>>
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>>51650563
Guess who forgot pic related
>>
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>>51650158
He should been doing daemons of khorne instead of nids for that.
>>
>>51649210
>>51650563
Also, wear a mask when sawing and filing resin, its dust is cancerous.
>>
>>51648640
Looking good.
Cheers for the write up.
>>
Working on prepping metal models after years of working solely on plastics.
I'm in hell
>>
>>51650563
>>51650595

Thanks, I'll stick that on the list, probably along with a couple finer files, the ones I have work fine for rough stuff in plastic but I think this'll need more care. Also probably some more heavy-duty superglue?
It comes painted AFAIK, so not entirely sure what I'll do about that. Maybe leave it as is, maybe prime over once built seeing as I'm adding a bunch of detail and the lines are quite soft anyway, whatever works.

>>51650745

That problem's solved, I have a respirator mask I can use. No whale-cancer for me.
>>
>>51650595
Never seen a folding knife razor saw before; does the hinge give you any problems?
>>
>>51650822
Great, really looking forward to your conversion, the concept is rad as fuck
>>
>>51650838
It's not folding - I couldn't find a better image; it's 4 separate blades held on by a thick screw. It's got a groove for the blades so it doesn't pivot. You swap the blades out as needed.
>>
>>51650846
Thanks, man. Be warned, this is my first crack at something this big and I'm learning some new skills along the way, but luckily it's going to be bits that will be hidden and I can take as many cracks at as needed for a while. Also practice cultists and practice Rhino are old friends.

Be a while before I have much to show, it's got to ship from America and I have to finish my WarConvo, which should line up nicely for a week or two.
>>
>>51649992
>>51650130

Hell, what about the IG Anon here who somehow 'accidently' super-glued a Cadian torso to his wang? He eventually manged to remove it along with several layers of skin... Ouch!
>>
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>>51651195
I've never heard of that but god fucking damn I need proof of this.
>>
>>51651230
I don't think I have the pic any more, but it was posted here on 4chins a few years ago. I can't imagine super gluing anything while my junk is hanging out...
>>
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Painting some terrain atm.

Using Blues and flock to give it a more interesting look. Plan to add rust pigments to all the metal work.
>>
>>51651285
Looks good. I'm actually happy to see stone that's not dull and grey for once.
>>
>>51651307
Thanks.

I'm the same. My FLGS claims to have a range of terrain, but it's literally dry-brushed grey / metallic buildings. It's like fighting over the planet of the neutronians.
>>
So question for terrain bros
I was thinking of using green floral foam but it is soft enough for me to leave an imprint with very little force. Is there any way to make it more durable?
>>
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Finally getting some more Thousand sons painted
>>
>>51651741
you could seal it up with pva glue. May give it a bit more structure.
>>
>>51651805
.. i want to taste them. they look delicious, like a candy apple.
>>
>>51651805

How do you do the red?
>>
>>51648498

The pic is photoshopped, anon.
>>
>>51651805
heres one of my undelicious termies. i thought i had better pics of them, apparently not
>>
>>51652280
They taste like shit, believe me.

>>51652294

Tamiya clear red over retributor armour basecoat.
>>
>>51652376

Do you run the clear through an airbrush or use the spray kind or what?
>>
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>>51652430
The terminator in this pic was done by brush, the rest were done using the tamiya rattle cans.
>>
Building some Brutes and plan on switching their heads for Nobs heads. Anyone done this? Does it look good?
>>
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Another pic with some other BoP figures. The set had some really nice models for the price!
>>
What paints should I buy, if I want to drybrush black, grey and orange ?
Also for those 3 colors what kind of wash should I use for the models to not look realy bad.
>>
>>51652555
Start by buying black, grey and orange
>>
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>>51646984
Just getting into BB with my brother, we're getting the dwarfs vs skaven setup. Here's a blitzer
>>
>>51652577
I have those 3 already. I tried mixing black with white, and white or black with orange to drybrush, but it didn't work. Not that my models looked ok, before me trying to dry brush.
>>
>>51652675
Can you explain exactly what you're trying to achieve? Pictures would help too.
>>
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This picture isn't great, but's a rough idea of what my guard's paint scheme is (phone's camera is kill).

But I can't think of how to do my vehicles to compliment it. It looks nice on the infantry, at least.
>>
>>51652728
I'd darken the blue if I were you
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>>51652725
I would like for my models to look decent. I pain stripped my models the 6th time today. No matter what I do they come up realy bad. People told me that using washs and dry brush will help, but it didn't the models still look bad.

This is my models durning try nb3. nb4 an the try with dry brush wasn't much better.
>>
>>51652843
The process for the blue is
The Fang -> Nuln Oil -> Russ Grey for layer -> Ulthuan Grey highlight. Ideas on how to get it a bit darker?

Also, this is to anyone that uses Vallejo's thinner medium with Citadel paints. Do you use one drop or two?
>>
>>51652861
I've seen much worse.

What you need to do is buy some washes that complement the colour you've painted, so for red you'll want a red wash etc. Drybrushing is a quick and easy way to get highlights but mixing white isn't the best way to do it. I'd buy a paint the shade lighter than what has already been painted then lightly drybrush that. So if for example you wanted orange you want to base orange, wash with an orange wash, then drybrush with a paler orange.
>>
>>51652969
yeah, see I know that the models came up as red/dark brown. But the paint I bought and the color I wanted to have was orange. But sometimes they come up as pink, or as red, but never as the color I want. they also never have the same color. Am using the same 3 colors, but they all look different, as most of those are models from the same unit, and should be the same color.
>>
>>51651230
>>51651282
http://suptg.thisisnotatrueending.com/archive/4956404/
>>
>>51652376
>>51652475

Cheers for the info, thinking about giving it a go but with the clear green.
>>
>>51652861
Infinity models are very curvy with lots of panel lines so drybrushing is going to do very little for you, but washes are very useful.

My suggestions are for you to prime grey, and put your thin base coat of bright red/dark orange over that.

Then you want a dark brown wash and you want to thin it down 50/50 or so. Use one brush to apply the wash and try to push it towards the panel lines and way from the armour plates themselves. You don't want any pooling so while you're doing this, use a second clean brush to sort of soak up excess wash from the flat plate areas.

After this, get your red/orange and thin it down a bit more than normal. Red/orange paints are inherently pretty transparent but you want a little more transparency than normal. When you put some on your brush make sure you wipe a bit off so you can still control the paint as you apply it. Then use this paint to highlight the higher points on the armour plates, where the light from above would be hitting them the brightest. If your paint is properly thin it should not be a huge stark difference in colour, but a subtle difference between the area you highlighted and the area darkened slightly by the wash. If the paint runs off your brush and into the recesses then you have too much paint on your brush.
>>
>>51651741
>>51652252
Maybe Polyurethane spray? I've never used it on green foam so I can't vouch for that, but it's hard and solid when it dries.
>>
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>Tfw you do your best metalwork paintjob on the interior of a Tau support turret so nobody will ever see it
>>
>>51651741
plastidip
>>
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Been working on my warhound. Still need to find/make a princeps though.
>>
>>51653512
Thanks man. Haven't had a laugh this good in months.
>>
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Not really sure what I'm going to use this for, any ideas on how to make the head less of just a cylinder?
>>
>>51648226
jesus crhsit is a wip pic not a fucking desktop. edit your size a bit.
>>
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Painting more harlequins, debating on a light dry brush on the red like the 'eavy metal starweaver.
>>
>>51648226
Either works really. But Temple guard do look a little bit more like BB players what with the helmets
>>
>>51654850
You could shorten the cylinder a bit and add some stuff on the side to break up the curve.
>>
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>>51652252
>>51653871
>>51654472
Thanks mates I'll have to experiment and get back to you on the results
>>
>>51654850
Add some spiky bits to it and maybe make a metal cover plate for the top of the cylinder.
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Can someone please tell me how to use Imperial Primer? I've shaken it like a red headed step child. I've got nothing left in my shaking arm. I'm gonna need rotator cuff surgery.

This shit goes on like a wash. A really damn thin wash. I can get no coverage of the plastic whatsoever with it.

Please halp.

Ignore pic, it's an attention grabber.
>>
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>>51647082
Well, for starters, if you don't want it to look like chalk, don't simply take a base colour and drybrush some white over it.

Your example is pretty good, but it's still a bit monochromatic and desaturated.
It looks like they used white + base colour to do their hightlighting.
A good trick to avoid that desaturation is to use vivid colours but with different values to do your shading.
So... Stegadon Scale Green instead of Alaitoc Blue for your shadows, for example.
In the same vein, you could highlight with Skink Blue instead of Fenrisian Grey.
The idea is to vary the hue, not just the value of your colours.

Also that purplish colour for the stones and the loincloth was a bit of a poor choice. A green would've been very apt for an ice theme, or something super saturated (maybe Imrik Blue wash over pure white?) or a topaz colour for pure contrast.

pic related is an example of pushing it to 11.
>>
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it's too hot to paint. 46c. what should i do
>>
>>51655777
>46C
Straya?
Maybe try making some bases from sprues and bits, I dunno.
>>
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>>51646984
Any particular reason to buy shades? I got the vallejo black and their version of agrax earthshades but after seeing duncan do these two videos I am not sure why people dont just thin down black with water. Can anyone tell me the particular reason that wash/shade specific paints are worth it?
https://youtu.be/E_h6PLHig28?t=41
https://youtu.be/wzgsBgYx0V8?t=324
>>
>>51656226
They come on nicer and less splotchy. Try it yourself. Wash one part of the model with vallejo black, and the other with just black paint that is thinned down. Technically you CAN achieve the same effect with flow improver (Not water) mixed into regular paint, but people like washes because they are easy.
>>
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Another question mates. Other than screwing a wood frame, is there a good way to prevent plywood from warping? I have 2, 1 of which is starting to curve
>>
>>51656319
Wood stain has worked for me
>>
>>51656226
They're different but both are tools to use. Just thinning paint with water will always behave differently to transparent ink washes.
>>
>>51656345
So does it act as a sealer so moister cant get in? Also can it be applied after its started to curve to even it out or should I apply it then put some weight on it and let it dry?

Thanks mate
>>
Is there a good brand of metallic spraypaint for use on minis?

I want to paint my bases bronze/brass but I don't like how painting them with brushes turns out. Since it's a uniform color I figured spraypaint would be fine, I just need to be pointed towards a brand that isn't shit
>>
>>51656374
Sealer does stop moisture from ruining your stuff. However I am not sure if you can unwarp something reliably. Try weighing it, putting stain on it, then putting the weights back on while the thing dries.
>>
>>51656375
Go to a hardware/auto store and buy one you like.
>>
>>51656375
Army Painter has metallic miniature spray paints which line up with colors from other companies. I suppose that you can use dupli-color's automotive metallics as well.
>>
>>51656292
>>51656373
Ok, thanks for the info. So if i was really adamant about not buying a bunch of random colors of wash like red and green, since i dont need a lot, I could keep some flow improver on hand so I can just thin my green paint with that stuff when i need it? Also ive seen using dish soap to make wash, i just dont like how it comes out glossy.
>>
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Built a couple Ghostkeels today for a game on Sunday.
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>>51656566
Side view, of course.
>>
>>51656493
You can slap matte varnish on things afterwards so they don't get glossy, or mix your wash with matte medium.
>>
>>51656566
>>51656584
>Taufag spamming unpainted MCs

Sasuga Shas'O

Get one more to complete the set
>>
>>51656584
>>51656566
>That gigantic seam on the front of the feet
Eugh. Did you mess something up or is that how the model came?

I hope I never have to panic buy a model so I have to paint it after assembly.
>>
>>51656493

I don't use colored shades very often, but I bought them just for when I need them. Mostly just blue and purple. If I ever paint red or green I'd buy red and green washes.

You don't need them, but in order to make a proper shade even if you make your own, you'd still need a darker color to make the shade out of, or mix something in to make the paint darker.

If you paint a model light blue, then try to make a wash out of light blue, you'll successfully make a wash, but it's not going to do shit because it's the same damn color as the paint anyway. Either way, you're going to need to buy an extra pot of something.
>>
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>>51656719
I already have one more, thank you.

>>51656724
The seam is an intentional part of the model. They're intended to be two separate toes. I still have minor greenstuff, cleanup, priming, and basecoating before I go; I'm not going to do details (I still work the two intervening days), but they're not going as unprimed plastic.
>>
>>51656719
Also, they're the only kits I had left over after I sold all but the bare minimum I need to run in our local organized play. I'm building an Inquisition army slowly, but I'm not buying new kits till I finish these two, the Mk3 squad, and my remaining Skitarii box.
>>
>>51650343
>Hello my baby, hello my honey, hello my ragtime gal
>>
How many drops of Vallejo's Thinner Medium do you use? One or two? Or more?
>>
>>51656981
How long is a piece of string?
>>
>>51657033
Touche anon.
>>
I never see dioramas on here anyone have experience making them? My local store has shit tons of cheap scrap minis and I might wanna try it.
>>
>>51653761
Thank you. Don't understand most of the stuff you wrote, but it is good to at least know that it is possible to save them.

Isn't adding more layers of grey and orange paint, on top of the stuff that is already there, just going remove all the detail ?
>>
>>51649773
>west side wha up my nigga
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Added some spikes to the head, thoughts?
>>
>>51654486
Maybe this guy could work?
>https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-US/Knight-Scion-Seated

>>51657108
There was a few people posting dioramas here a month or two ago for the big GW contest a while back. Not sure if they're still around.
>>
>>51649441

Why are you using boogers instead of blu tack?
>>
>>51656981

It depends on the paint, but I find I'm starting to use more and more thinner. But when I use Vallejo Model Air or certain, very runny paints like Army Painter Matte Black or Matte Varnish, I don't use any thinner other than whatever water mixes into the paint through the palette.

If your paint still feels like "paint" or a solid cream, or a drippy chocolate syrup, it's too thick. It should feel like smooth water or milk, and take at least two layers to cover completely unless you're using certain colors that have god tier coverage.
>>
>>51657294
He looks pretty tight Anon! I must admit though that arm thing looks like he's about to send a nigga to the shadow realm.
>>
>>51657382
Okay, thanks anon.

I'm okay with my guardsmen ending up with paint jobs that are a little too thick, but I want to at least build up my ability to consistently thin my paints before tackling the Start Collecting Skitarii box in my closet.
>>
>>51657412

When you find a level of thinness that works for you, you should thin by memory rather than a strict formula of drops, because all paints require different amounts of thinner.
>>
>>51657425
Yeah, that's what I meant, I'm trying to just get comfortable with recognizing what a properly thinned paint looks like, if you get what I'm trying to say.
>>
>>51657439

How I found it was I noticed even when I thinned what I felt was enough, I would sometimes see the paint starting to form a small line or ridge whenever I pushed enough paint to the edge of the model because I was smoothing out the middle of the surface I was painting.

As I passed my brush over the surface more and more, the watery paint starting moving to the edge, and then started piling up into a not-thin ridgeline. When I tried to fix it by smoothing the ridgeline and spreading it back to the middle of the model, it left brush strokes, so it was clearly still too thick.
>>
>>51648908
>Started trying to brush-prime my Leman Russ
>Brush strokes fucking EVERYWHERE in the primer
This was a mistake
>>
Should I make my Herald of Tzeentch have a bird head or the moonman head?
>>
>>51657517
Spics and niggers need to hang from trees, anon.
>>
>>51651285
That's not flock, it's static grass. FFS people can you not tell the difference?
>>
>>51657517
Whatever you prefer

But you are obviously bad if you don't like the moonface the most
>>
>>51657234
Just strip them first.
>>
>>51647479
Skaven Doomsheel rip-off.
>>
How the fuck did it take me four years to finally dig out my original Bones kickstarter and start slapping some paint on them? I was honestly expecting the worst and whilst I'd prefer them in metal with better detail I was pretty surprised they weren't just shapeless blobs for the most part.
>>
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I finally made myself a simple lightbox
>>
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and I have no idea how could I take any photos without one.

Also, sharing my recent Thousand Sons
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>>51653926
But you know it's there.

I also paint every single bit of interior because of reasons.
>>
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>>51646984
Here you go. My Blood Bowl team WIP
>>
>>51653926
I know that feel.
Tfw the best side of the sword is the one facing the ground.
>>
>>51646984
Just got all the basecoats down on this Rubric (Crimson Sons scheme), but I'm unsure of whether I should shade the white sections with a Dawnstone+medium recess wash, or just keep the Astronomican Grey basecoat as the darkest colour and build up through Ulthuan Grey to white from there. Thoughts?

The red plates are going to get layered with Mephiston Red, to give an idea of how it'll look later.
>>
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>>51658581
And it didn't upload the photo for some reason.
>>
>>51658262
Nice paintjob, love the contrast between the black and orange.
>>
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Hey anons, I'm looking to get some new black primer. My old Vallejo rattle can ran out and I can't find a new one anywhere.

I heard good things about Halfords own brand shit, but they don't seem to do black primer. Anyone got any recommendations?
>>
>>51658945
Rustoleum
>>
>>51648460
>>51648498
bro, your plague marines are really "sick"
>>
>>51649079
oh, I can remember that guardsman
>>
Anyone got suggestions for a good white primer? A friend gave me a bunch of models a few years back that were already primed white, and I noticed that painting on a white primer is a LOT easier for me, but he doesn't remember what he used.
>>
>>51658945

>I heard good things about Halfords own brand shit, but they don't seem to do black primer

Except they do, which Is what I use.
>>
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Still slogging away at my BB table, after smashing all this out in 2 days. Its now getting to the tedious parts. Pic is of the table as of last thread, 2 days of work.
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>>51659177
And tonight progress, about 30-45min of work. Slow going.

Still looking for an orc coach model, too.
>>
>>51659157
Don't know what the fuck is going on then. Every search I do seems to miss black spray primer. Halfords, Homebase, B&Q- grey primer spray, white primer spray, red primer spray, black brush-on primer, black gloss spray...
but not black primer spray.
>>
>>51658585
>Catalunya Marines
>>
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>>51659194

Dunno what to tell you, m8, I just walk in off the street, Matt black primer spray they always have it
>>
>>51658339
>>51658321

They look fine, but you've got some very strong and jarring silver highlights going on there. Also, recess washes around some of the eyeslit ornaments.

>>51658581
Do the tabards the way Duncan did the one Magnus is wearing. Dawnstone base, Ulthuan Grey layer, White Scar highlight and thinned Nihilak Oxide recess wash.
>>
>>51659177
>>51659187
That looks fucking awesome. Kudos.
>>
>>51659201
Guess I'm going to have to slog it into town and look in person.
>>
>>51659210
>Dawnstone
maybe it was Celestra grey now that I think about it
>>
>>51659225

I'd call ahead if I was you...
>>
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My first stormtrooper of the Obsidia Owls
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>>51659187
>Still looking for an orc coach model, too.

This one looks good if you can make him hold a notepad or something
>>
>>51659376

That's a cheerleader right there
>>
>>51655390
Oh mate that is sexual, Imagine all the conversions you can do.
>>
>>51659220
Thanks man, getting there.

>>51659376
Not bad at all, especially for a savage orc team. But yeah, male cheerleader fo sho.
>>
>>51647390
It'd be nice on a trukk or battle wagon
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>>51659427
You can use this guy. Make him hold a big board with a big arrow and a football drawn (orcishly) on it. Makes it look like he's using rudimentary board signs to lead the team.
>>
>>51659363
What's he looking up at?
>>
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>>51659363
Black wash inside the rims of all three lenses and a bit more effort to make them either shine or look like optics would go a long way.
>>
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I desperately need airbrush practice so I painted my phone to go with my armies (=][=, Infinity and X-Wings).

Ton of mistakes, primer didn't stick to the rubbery piece, etc. but it was fun.
>>
>>51658585
Duncan be proud
>>
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>>51659187
>Still looking for an orc coach model, too.
Use the old runtherder and swap the whip hand for one holding a card.

If you got access to 40k bits I think the battlewagon kit also had a head with a fieldcap that might look appropriate.
>>
>>51659747
Well, I do make sure to apply my paints in multiple thin coats.
>>
>>51659210
I'm not so big on the Nihilakh Oxide recess wash, but that recipe was basically what I was thinking of doing otherwise. I might just sub the Nihilakh for a mix of Dawnstone and Lahmian Medium to darken the recesses.
>>
woke up briefly in the morning after a night of drinking to a strange sensation

i had passed out chewing a piece of sprue. there was smaller pieces in my mouth
>>
Lads, how do I make good looking swamps using Nurgle's Rot?

I'm sure the paint you apply before the Nurgle's Rot and maybe a shade or two can make it better than the simple green color
>>
>>51660434
Yeah, start with Caliban Green or another dark green of your choice, then apply several layers of Nurgle's Rot. Make sure to get some on the banks of the pools to create the illusion of depth.

Another way to make them look good is to add reeds (very easy and cheap to make, just glue bristles to the base) or small clear beads for bubbles.
>>
>>51658945
>I heard good things about Halfords own brand shit, but they don't seem to do black primer. Anyone got any recommendations?

Halfords? You in pommey git land? How about Rust-oleum? I see that Halfords carry at least one kind of Rust-oleum paint... perhaps a specialty paint retailer would carry this stuff.
>>
>>51660476
that sounds usefull, thanks!
>>
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Will these fit on Imperial guard models? http://www.pig-iron-productions.com/kolony-militia-winter-heads-p-18.html
>>
>>51660541
What kind? Old metal ones, the plastics, FW resin?

They fit alright on the plastic ones, no idea if they're in scale with the other two.
>>
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Progress on the GUO. Happy with the shading, I've painted the yellow pustules, going to leave the bloody ones for now. Started a little highlighting but I'm bored.

What colour should I do the teeth? I'm coming round to black.
>>
>>51660719

This is so awesome... it's like a dark Tim Burton movie with all the light-hearted fun replaced by pestilence and death.
>>
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>>51660541
>>
>>51660719
Idk about black teeth, but maybe towards the gums get a little darker/browned. Really pale, yellowed teeth might look good too, if you keep the blood in the gums too
>>
>>51649145
Nice job on the highlights, looks really professional
>>
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I want this thing to be on my Stirland banner, but I don't really know how to paint it

Any suggestion?
>>
>>51661040
Trace it onto paper, carefully transfer with pencil marks onto your banner, don't fuck up.
>>
>>51660719
Looking fantastic. The teeth should look like nasty yellowed/brown teeth in an old dog.

>>51660739
I think it still looks pretty light-hearted. I want to give it a big hug.
>>
>>51660719
Mostly dark yellowed and brown, I'd say. have some with black specks around like cavities.
>>
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First attempt at converting a model. Amon ad Raza for my Protectorate of Menoth army. Do you guys think I should clip the chains and make them a flush cross or leave them overlapping? Also general advice I guess?
>>
>>51659725

very nice
>>
Anyone have a link to a good book on airbrushing techniques?
>>
>>51661794

No link but Angel something or other who paints the infinity models is pretty good
>>
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Power pack and crossbolter about done, some more work on sarge and his two riflemen. Should probably think about how I'm going to base them soon.

I gotta say, that little gauge is a huge pain in the ass. Painting the tiny recessed "I" on the gauntlet was easier.
>>
>>51661917
Damn. I was hoping to find a book listing techniques, for when I can't watch videos.
>>
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Finally got all the planking done. I don't want to think of how many hundreds of stirrers I cut to get this
>>
>>51662012
>Nobody expects the Gallian Inquisition!
>>
>>51662054
Awesome. Looking forward to seeing it finished.
>>
Do the Vengeance Weapon Battery Punisher Cannon fit into the platforms for the Firestorm Redoubt quad-lascannons? The Stormbird conversion I'm working on is using the latter to represent the 4 twin-linked Lascannon it has, and I was thinking that I could use the Punishers to represent the optional swap to quad-bolters.

Otherwise I guess I'll get 16 Heavy Bolters from somewhere, strap them into groups of 4 and magnetise the arms on the turrets.
>>
What's your rough Guess/Estimate for how many figures you've painted, over the past six years and from a small census I did remembering stuff I painted in the past that sold off and looking at what I had on hand I know I've reached about 1,200 models, varying sizes and types, between what I've painted for myself and friends.
>>
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Wee sneaky preview of my Goblin blood bowl team on the left. Mostly posting because I finally manage to get some miniatures into the warhammer world exhibition. Wew lads.
>>
>>51652475
Did you do several coats of tamiya clear red? Did you thin it down?
>>
>>51660541
Yes, they fit.

I thought pig iron was closed.
>>
>>51662590

We're proud of you!
>>
>>51662590
That's awesome, good job lad
>>
>>51662590

Your savage Orcs & Tzeentch Daemons were a great inspiration, stoked you got your stuff in WHW
>>
>>51662590
classic stone trolls are the only acceptable stone trolls
>>
>>51662649
So did I. Looks like they worked something out last March, according to their FB.
>>
>>51662853
Oh, that's great!
>>
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I'm going to be airbrushing alclad paints, so I'm looking for a respirator mask. What criteria do I use to judge if one is good enough for these toxic paints?
>>
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Wip of my archaon. Well... Actually dorghar.
>>
>>51654879
>it's the guy who gets angry about large pictures again

it's not even very large. are you on dial-up?
>>
>>51657294
looks good to me
>>
>>51657395
Great, now I want to model two Tzeentch sorceror's playing Duel Monsters with summoned demons. I did not need another project.
>>
>>51649441
Looks great to me
>>
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Painting up a 10-man legion assault squad for my World Eaters.
Not sure if the white looks ok yet. Just 2 thinned coats of Ulthuan Grey over Army Painter matt black primer.

Also, respirator recommendations for under €30? Please & thank you.

>>51660719
So happy to see this thing being painted. Been following the sculpt since you started posting. Looks fucking amazing, wouldpurge/10.
>>
>>51659499
you wouldn't even need to convert it really. just wrap something leatheresque around the bones and done.
>>
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Should I paint this one blue fading to red again or reverse it?
>>
>>51654882
The shading on the checkers makes it look like a couch
>>
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Finished the first test model.
>inb4 cheater
>inb4 ded biel-tan is ded

Now I have to paint 5 more. Ugh. Never liked jetbikes too much, probably my least favorite eldar models. I also wanted to try making a webm.

>>51648460
Very nice.
>>51658262
Love the paint scheme.
>>51658305
Do you use a single light from above?
>>51659725
Woah, that's cool. Did you follow a tutorial or something?
>>
>>51664836
Sexy green anon, good work with the airbrush.
>>
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Posting best legion.

Still needs some work but acceptable tabletop? Thinking of doing a full Kill team.
>>
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R8 m8s
>>
>>51664836
are you using airgun? bastard.
>>
>>51665088
0/10 No badass skull
>>
>>51664836
I don't accept no spraypaint cheaters who play dead craftworlds in my WIP threads.

Looks good like the rest of your dudes, but I prefer a darker green.
>>
>>51663651
do you have facial hair? if not, a half-mask like that with the appropriate cartridges (usually sold separately) will be fine. If you do, you need a full-face respirator ($100+) or a shave
>>
>>51665088
Flat looking red, extremely flat and lifeless sail, edge highlights of questionable hue that forgot their Parkinsons medication, dusty prow, and have a spike jutting out through the guardsman's helmet so your brain has an explanation for why his head isn't slumped down.
>>
i bought a cheap little wooden deer statue the other day for a few dollars from a goodwill store. i'm painting it up like it's old and mossy.
>>
>>51665148
Pls
>>51665223
Really? I honestly don't see how that it's flat. How is the sail lifeless? All dark eldar vehicles have a hue bright highlight like that. And the guardsmen is slouched on an angle...
>>
>>51665088
I like it been fun watching you progress Crimson Archon Anon!
>>
>>51665088

>>51665223
>zero constructive criticism
I hate to agree with this anon but hes right. The flat pannels can be VERY hard to make "lifelike" sense throwing a wash on it will just get covered again by paints. The real way you make the plates shine is by giving REALLY big attention to the edge highlights. They need to be both crisp and multiple layered, going from red brighter red, or red to orange, as it seems you have done. The lines arn't very sharp, and the whole model looks a little lumpy on the sides, meaning it may be a priming issue as well. Barring that, the red really needs something to devide the panels better, which would be achived by dropping a dark red black between them. Washes would work well. The metal prow and the other metalics could use a wash, as could the troopers to further devide the pannel lines on their kabalite armor. This tech is called "lining in" and can be used in conjunction with edge highlights to produce a lot of zing where there really is none. All those plates will really pop if you use them together. The sail is fine. Rehighlight your metals after you wash them and i think it will really shine if you put some time into the edge highlights, clean, thin, and multi layered. The sharper the corner, the brighter the highlight!

TLDR: 6/10
Your basics are there, but cleanup is lacking. Some advanced techniques will really bring up your quality.
>>
>>51665530
Thanks a shit ton anon. I'm gonna try to do as much clean up as I can and repost it next thread. Thanks for your time, makes a lot of sense.
>>
>>51664997
Not bad anon. Put some fucking lightnings and fix the base
>>
>>51657667
>WIP Thread
>This is what I plan to use to make it more interesting
>Haven't used it yet because you know...WIP thread and all
>"REEE THATS NOT FLOCK REEEEEE"

Stay autist friend.
>>
>>51665839
Just put the skull back on the sail, ok?
>>
>>51665314
neat
>>
>>51665088
You took the Kroot Head off, eh friend? I feel like that torso would've looked good hanging from the rail, on the back of your ship, but i like it. Does need some highlights to make it pop, maybe some freehanding. Try it on the sail first.
>>
>>51666117
I honestly wish he wouldve kept it, poor dude got bullied so hard over it.
>>
>>51665314
very cool anon
>>
>>51665314

That's really cool. Good find and good job.
>>
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>>51666117
Nah that's the old raider(pic related). the one I posted is my second

I honestly can't tell if the freehand suggestions I get are serious or memes anymore
>>
>>51666225
Where's the goddamn skull faggot? That's the best thing you have ever contributed to these threads.
>>
>>51666381
I got rid of it because I was tired of not being given criticize in the excuse of making shitty memes.

I honestly don't care anymore
>>
>>51666406
Paint it back on.
>>
>>51666225
How would you go about adding designes to the reavers? I kind of want to do mine but I'm terrified it will look derpy as fuck.
>>
>>51666406
The skull sail meme is sorta funny and your Kabal of the sick vert will live on in the history of Wip forever more.
>>
>>51665088
it's good/10

I like the guardsman a lot
>>
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>>51666481
>>
>>51666461
I don't know, that's why I didn't do it.
>>
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>>51665530
Am I on the right track?
>>
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>>51666481
First pic related and now this...
>>
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>>51666576
>>
>>51666592
I'm going to take a picture of all 25 of my valhallans faces and make a collage of them.
Stay tuned next thread
>>
>>51665321
>I honestly don't see how that it's flat.

Large surfaces with nothing but edge highlights easily end up that way. You need to put in something, like nice and gradual shading or some other form of tonal variation. But start with not making such a bloody mess of your edge highlights, having them look like actual highlights instead of smeared on lines would probably help.

>All dark eldar vehicles have a hue bright highlight like that.

No, they do not, because they're not all painted in the same colours as yours. And I don't think the brightness is the main problem, feels more like the highlight fall too much towards the yellow compared to the colder base red and shading.

>And the guardsmen is slouched on an angle...

With the head at nearly the same angle. Without his neck muscles holding his head like that it'd either be chin to chest or throat thrust forward for the world to bite. Not casually glancing towards the sky.
>>
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>>51666558
Has anything changed?

And what the heck happened here? That bit should be smooth.
>>
>>51666707
Gaps, I used greenstuff and sanded it but it didn't do too well.
I'm just gonna stop with this raider and work on something else...
>>
>>51666826
Have you tried learning to tie knots in necklaces while balancing on stools? I bet you would get the hang of it pretty fast.
>>
A question: has anybody here painted that imperial space marine model from last year? I got it for cheap in a comic shop in my town (10 euro instead of regular 25), and now I think how I should paint that guy. My plan at the moment is to paint him as a blood angel, since one of my best friends plays those and that mini would be a nice surprise for him.

Has anyone done something interesting with that mini?
>>
>>51666850
What?
>>
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>>51666910
I don't know if it's interesting, but I painted mine up as field police way back when. He's a pretty cool model.

The knee/elbowpads are a complete bitch to paint, though.
>>
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>>51666910
>has anybody here painted that imperial space marine model from last year?

I swear I've seen at least one of our WIP ladz do this... in the "Military Police" colour scheme from Rogue Trader. No idea where the picture of him is.

>My plan at the moment is to paint him as a blood angel, since one of my best friends plays those and that mini would be a nice surprise for him.

I love painting things as Blood Angels, but alas, The Imperial Space Marine can not be included in a Blood Angels army under the current rules. At least we can put grav-cannons in our devastator squads now. If you do paint it up for your friend, though, I'm sure he would appreciate it.
>>
>>51666592
models make the best reaction images
>>
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>>51667097
>>51666977
>>
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>>51667116
maybe

Thank goodness I just made an order for some of those russian not-sisters. They'll make sure I don't cause any trouble.
>>
>>51666826
The washes you put in between the plates really helped. Rehilighting the metal and cleaning up your edge highlights need to happen, but yeah, I look forward to more!
>>
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Immolator turret front
>>
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>>51667195

Aaand rear.
>>
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>>51667116
Making this depressed me for some reason
>>
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Finished Barbaros now, went a bit over the top on the rust but it's a learning experience.
>>
>>51667223
I wonder if they'll ever make guardsmen with faces as expressive as the 2e ones.
>>
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>>51667223
>Pictured: valhallan regulars killed by anti-air ordinance on approach to drop site. many such infantrymen would train for years before being shipped out, only to never reach the battlefield.
>>
>>51664612
Reverse it. Or do it lengthwise instead.
>>
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How?
>>
What's the difference between dedicated model paint and dollar store acrylics?
>>
>>51667636
typically? the amount of pigment

Don't use dollar store acrylics. Maybe for massive terrain projects, but even then I'd still probably find some other alternative.
>>
>>51666977
Thank you, that is indeed a great idea. And a really good paint job, I like it. Definitely something I consider now to do. I really should look into those old colour schemes.

>>51667097
Thanks for your answer, but a pity. I didn't know that this mini would be more or less useless for him, except in house rules of course. Perhaps he can use this fella at least as a marine with some special weapon. But still, thanks for the information!
>>
>>51667656
>Don't use dollar store acrylics
I wasn't planning to. I was just curious about what makes paint high quality.
>>
>>51667749
oh, then yeah it's mostly linked to pigmentation (unless I'm remembering wrong)

That's why shitty acrylics have garbage coverage when you water them down, where miniature paints can be quite thin and still work fine.
>>
Does anyone have the Sons of Ultramar painting guide pdf?
>>
>>51667778
smaller and more pigments.

Craft store paint has it's uses, you make basing paste out of it and use it to paint terrain.
>>
>>51667778
>>51667896
Intredasting. Thank you.
>>
>>51667463
They probably cut part of the shoulder
>>
finished my deer statue
>>
>>51668617

So serene. Strange to think that bloody battle is going to take place around it.

Good job.
>>
>>51668617
on a whim i dotted some water effect into the crevasses of the moss, so hopefully when it sets it'll give it a moist, living look
>>
>>51668617

Moss is damned good. Well done.
>>
>>51668641
>>51668661
thanks, it was my first attempt at trying to do moss. how i did it was
light stippled typhus corrosion (thats the brown you can see)
then a heavy stippling of tamiya sand texture, which i glazed green
then a heavy globbing of tamiya soil texture, which i painted caliban green and washed with biel-tan

then i drybrushed it with lightening shades of greens, then just a bit of flock and static grass, and some water texture.
>>
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>>51655142
>>51655142
>>51655142

anybody?
>>
>>51668723
if its thin like a wash, you might have just gotten a bad one, try bugging gw support about it.
>>
>>51668723
is it mixed? dumb question i know, but you might have a big glob of pigment stuck in the bottom, and the rest being watery sitting on top of it. i'd get a coffee stirrer and mix the shit out of it.
my problem with imperial primer was it tended to be really globby by default.

i would really recommending just spray priming though, brush priming sucks.
>>
>>51664836
>Woah, that's cool. Did you follow a tutorial or something?

No, just winged it.
>>
>>51668617
the deer is really just a warmup for this wise man with a myrrh grenade i got from an old egyptian man from a corner store. when i asked him how much it was, he weighed it and said seven dollars.
>>
>>51655142
>Can someone please tell me how to use Imperial Primer?
Don't use it, buy black primer spray instead. Unless you like a rough finish to your models, of course.

But yeah, sounds like a shittily mixed pot, maybe, unless you're diluting it way too much or something.
>>
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>>51667195
"I'm so tired of this bullshit."
>>
>>51667231
I don't know what it is, but it looks nice.

The one thing that confuses me though is the placement of the blood. It looks more like he was talking to somebody who spontaneously exploded, causing him to recoil as the blood showered over him and leaving the puddle where the guy who exploded was standing.
>>
>>51666512
yeeeees.
>>
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Face shield guy again, here's my current result, I think I might try and add a bit of liquid green stuff in some parts on the sides of the face to make slight bulge lines I guess, or do you guys think it looks better ala Han Solo frozen in Carbonite style like it is now?
>>
>>51669830
Make something like ridges or veins in the metal, spreading from the skull
>>
>>51669865
Ridges are kinda my intention, like kinda how cloth looks when a bulge is in it, but I'm not sure I'm skilled enough to pull that off, which is why I wonder if I can do subtle ridges with liquid green stuff
>>
>>51669887
Maybe put a small vein of superglue how you want the ridges to go, then go over that with liquid greenstuff? Idk, im no doctor.
>>
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The shield is down! Commence attack on the Death Star's main reactor!

>>51670834
>>51670834
>>51670834
Thread posts: 353
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