WIP: Work in Progress General

So I've assembled my Knight legs minus the pelvis cap thing. Should I order some magnets and greenstuff and have a shot at magnetizing it, or just pick a variant now? New to using both magnets or greenstuff, but it seems like there's a few tutorials. Would it be really tricky for a newbie or is it plausible I could magnetize the weapon options?

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alright, re-post since my post was apparently one of the last in the thread before. Anyway, finished the base set of this Talisman kit. Not the best of miniatures, but I think they came out pretty good.

How should I model goredrinker on my lord?

Asking again: does it make a difference which kind of Knight I buy in the online shop or are they all using the same sprues?

Would like to be able to swap loadouts when I feel like using a different Knight variant without having to buy 4 different ones.

>>51575333
If im not mistaken, the Knights all have the same body, and are sold with the weapons pictured. Then you can buy the seperate weapon options

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Update on some wolves, BC, GH and WGs. Sorry about quality, need new sd for camera. Will get decent pics after highlights.

>>51575376
Wrong

>>51575333
There are 2 kits from GW. The Knight Errant/ Paladin one which comes with the Chainsword, Battlecannon and Thermal Cannon and then there is the Knight Warden/ Crusader/ Gallant kit that comes with an extra sprue for the top mounted weapons, the Thunderstrike Gauntlet and the Avenger Gatling Cannon.

>>51575177
There are literally dozens of guides on how to magnetize Imperial Knights out there. If not hundreds. And since they are fuckhuge, it's also pretty easy.

>>51575492
For clarity: the Warden kit has all the weapons options from the other one as well.

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>>51575333
>Asking again: does it make a difference which kind of Knight I buy in the online shop or are they all using the same sprues?
>Would like to be able to swap loadouts when I feel like using a different Knight variant without having to buy 4 different ones.

You're talking about GW Knights, not Forgeworld ones, right? Like >>51575376 says, all the GW Knights use the same body. There are three sprues (pictured) common to all Knights that form feet and legs, arms and torso, and the head.

If you buy a Paladin or Errant, you will get exactly the same thing: these three sprues, and nothing more. This is because all the weapons variants for those two models (battlecannon for Paladin, meltacannon for Errant) are all on those sprues, along with the parts for the shoulders and upper arms.

If you want a Warden, Gallant, or Crusader, you'll need that magical fourth sprue. If you bought the "Renegade" game, they only gave you one two split between the two Knights, but if you buy a Warden kit, you get the entire sprue (not pictured in its entirety here, so maybe that wasn't the *best* picture I could choose). This fourth sprue has the Thunderstrike Gauntlet, Avenger Cannon, torso-mounted meltagun, all three carapace-mounted weapons, some additional faceplates, and Adeptus Mechanicus insignia. However, the arm weapons on this sprue are the lower arms only - you still need the pieces from the original Knight kit to mount them to the body.

>>51575508
>>51575607
So basically the Errant-style kits all contain the core legs, torso, heads and "small" weapons and the Crusader-style kit includes all those same parts, including Chainsword and other weapons but costs an extra 14€ for the carapace weapons, bigger firearms and some extra decorations?

I.e. I should just buy that little bit extra to get all options?

>>51575412
Did you basecoat with The Fang? Looks more like Sotek Green/Turqoise.

>>51575703
Yes. But if I were you I'd have a look around ebay and resellers, wargaming sites and the like for the 'Renegade' box that contains 2 basic Knights, the extra sprue and some terrain for way less.

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>>51575703
>i.e. I should just buy that little bit extra to get all options?

Hell yes.

You're getting an entire sprue for that extra money. Even with minimal magnet work, you'd easily be able to switch between the three carapace weapons (or have none at all, if you don't feel like paying the extra points).

>>51575412
Those are some nice Thousand Sons.

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>>51575778
when will this meme die?

Pic related is straight out of the codex, SW were always sky blue before they went grey being 'sky warriors' and all.

>>51575914
My 2nd ED codex and the picture of 'Captain Ragnar's Space Wolves' on the back cover says otherwise. Anyway, keep up the good work with your Sons.

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found this lil guy in an old british board game and decided to try seeing what paint could do for him...

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>>51574994

Painted up over this weekend, just need to figure out a scenic base for him! Suggestions?

>>51576144
a field of wilting and rotting flowers

>>51576144
A dark stone or cracked earth, with some sort if rot or something spreading from his feet outwards

>>51576144
something snowy

he looks cold

>>51576175
>>51576191
>>51576209

Quite like all of those ideas actually, thanks!

>>51576144
jesus christ how many of these fucking lords gets posted daily? Must be GWs best selling sculpt.

>>51576395
It's only £9 so it's like the cheapest GW model to try out a nurgle scheme on.

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first time painting vehicle

please send help

>>51576135
That's pretty cool, Anon. It's surprisingly detailed.

>>51576691
>send-help-2.png
Show send-help-1.png

Why am I unable to get a good brush consistency? My paints are always too watery or too thick, and if the right consistency is acquired, they run out of paint in an instant. It's making highlighting a real bitch since I can't manage to present consistent linework...

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>>51574994
Another Death guard done.

>>51576691
Looks smooth on the large flat areas, so I'd say you're doing well. What do you need help with?

>>51575217
I want that purple jester! Nice job though those are pretty awesome.

>>51575217
solid work, anon!

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Keep it up Anon, you're doing great, you are great!

>>51576135

Great job, and underrated post. Unfortunately, if its not GW, it wont get any critique on /tg/ most of the time.

>>51575914
>TFW I paint them grey because the new blue look is fucking stupid
Enjoy your thousand sons anon.

>>51577616
>>51577677

Thanks! Strangely enough the priest I think, became the best painted one, and on a close second the Jester... Both models are by far on the lower end of what people tends to "want to play" (the priest especially, he really is on a suicide run if a player gets him as his first character in a random draft!).

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>>51577990
Forgot face

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Reposting my finished start collecting box.
Once again thanks for the help guys

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>>51574994
You can't tell very well but here is the template Im going to make a stamp out of and put these things on shields to make it look like faces are coming out of them

Can anyone give me tips for getting the right amount of water into my wet palette?

I find that paints are soaking through the baking paper. Is this too much water, too little, or the wrong type of paper? Washes soak through immediately

>>51577545

First of, never paint white with white. Second, if you wash, be sure to go back with the main color and re-apply the base color yet again, before starting with your highlights. And third, I never got the idea GW had when applying a highlight to the shoulderpad, that light green line rests where a shadow would be more appropriate, but as this is GW´s favourite technique of doing it, I wont blame you for doing it. Also, drill the barrel, and be more gentle with your overall edge highlight, you picked the right color for the bolter (really dark grey), but alas, its on there way to think "framing" the object.

A lot of harsh criticism, but hopefully you will thank me in time.

>>51577442
it's the 5mb version of the same picture

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I just started painting my (chaos marauder conversion) Norse Blood Bowl team, these are the positionals. Since this is my first time painting, any tips/suggestions? Does a thing as "thinning my paints too much" exist or am I on the right track?

>>51578091
Thats pretty cool. Can I get a picture with a piece of paper as background?

>>51578219
The only consequence to thinning your paints too much is that it will take forever to actually cover the model. In that sense there it's a "more than necessary" thing. From the looks of it you need to thin more. Aim for about 2 layers for the basecoat, with it being OK if it's a little bit transparent, as long as you are going to go over the areas later with layers.

>>51578040
looks great anon!

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>>51578282
Heres what I'm talkin about specifically

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>>51578302
This is the first layer and they are rather transparent (in some places at least) the picture looks like shit. Do you suggest another layer like this, wash and then another lighter layer? E.g. screaming skull over ushabti bone?

Also, the linemen.

>>51578444
If this is your first time painting, then there are two things you need to know.

1. Your first 10 or so models will look like absolute shit while you get your eye in, learn brush control and paint consistency etc. You might want to buy some cheapo minis to practice on.

2. Models tend to look shit until they're very close to being finished. Don't be downhearted if they look terrible at the basecoating stage, after washes and highlights tie them together they'll look much better.

I like the conversions.

>>51578444
Doesn't look like bad coverage at all for one layer of paint. If it's not covered then another thin layer will do it. Far better too thin than too thick.

>>51578151
wrong paper.

>>51578517
>>51578533
Great, thanks for the advice anons!

>>51578040
youve inspired me to start that Dark Eldar army I've been mulling, those look dope man.

Is there a website that lets you experiment different color schemes on popular minis?

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>When your friend looks like a badass and you dont

>>51576135
What game? Looks pretty detailed for an old model. Personally don't like his mug but I'm pretty sure that's more on the model than your painting.

>>51578345
That is cool man, real nice

>>51579419
Hopefully the end result looks good ahah, thanks man

>put together first Kastelan Robot
>only slightly taller than my Tech-Priest

I don't know what I was expecting but I'm still disappointed.

What's the best way to magnetize those guys? Was thinking about putting the magnets in the cavity inside their hands and cut off the small disk that would normally be glued into there, then drill a hole into the arm to insert the magnet.

Sound plan or am I going to run into some problems?

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Anyone ever order from V & V miniatures before?
I was thinking of getting their 28mm Jarl (pic related) for a D&D game. I'm having a real hard time finding models like it elsewhere.

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Would it be weird to use this head for a dark eldar?
I know it's not edgy, but it's elvish and it fits on the model.
Need opinons basically

>>51579796
Reaper don't have anything for you?

>>51579869
Hair looks almost too tame for DEldar, but it's probably alright to go with.

>>51579796
That doesn't look too out of place with many Gripping Beast figures. Maybe Redbox minis as well.

>>51578517
>>51578668

This guys advice is solid, i think point 2 is particularly important to new painters. Most of my models look like shit right up until i start adding in the highlights and shading. So they look garbage for the first 90% of time invested which i think is what puts people off or makes them think they are doing something wrong.

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>>51574994

Finished the base for my Pyramid Head helmet for my Silver Tower Slaughterpriest. Was going to add some putty to smooth up the edges between the glued plasticard, but coincidentally my plastic putty, plumber's putty, and liquid green stuff have all disappeared and regular green stuff is too hard for me to work with when it comes to detail like that. Gonna have to wait til after work tomorrow to get some more.

Anyway, lots more work to do on the helmet after that.

Should I keep the big ax, or should I use some more plasticard to make it look like he's holding a giant knife kinda like the great machete from Dark Souls?

>>51580733
dude you either go full pyramid head or you feel his shaft in your cooter.

>>51580733

What's the red stuff you use for filling gaps in the plasticard? I've seen Dave Taylor use the same stuff but I don't know what it is.

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First real kitbash type thing with this guy, even though it's all from the same kit. I took the head off the force staff and put it on the axe hilt for a funky power mace thingy. I think Black Legion would look the best on this model, what does /WIP/ think?

>>51580733
That pyramid is outrageously large.

>>51580870
Couldn't even tell it was kitbashed without reading your post. It looks official for the most part.
Whether that's good or bad is up to you.

>>51580870
Black Legion would look alright but it more or less comes down to what warband or legion you wanna do. Remember, you're the one who has to look at them every day. Are you just doing regular CSM or are you using any of the supplements?

>>51580870
>Putting it all together before painting

I don't know how people can do this without getting frustrated or unless the models arms are not covering any parts of them. Jesus

>>51580870
>First real kitbash type thing with this guy, even though it's all from the same kit.

So not a kitbash at all then.

>>51580939
That guy came with the Assassinorum boxed game and I'm not going to build a full chaos army, but I'd definitely use him in a Kill-team

>>51580958
I don't really know what else to call it.

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>>51580819

Meh it's just a polite nod, I'm not looking to go full conversion. But from your post I take it you are in favor of the great machete?

>>51580857

It's actually brown sharpie I used to cut it out. I'm super new at using plasticard so I just made the outline then scored the card with my hobby knife. The gaps have yet to be filled due to missing materials.

>>51580917

Yep. Pic related, it's supposed to be pretty big. I may have overdone it a little but I think it'll work.

>>51580978
Conversion? Bitz bash?

>>51580964
Oh, okay then. I guess it's whatever you wanna do then. Black Legion looks pretty badass as far as CSM schemes go.

>>51581024
I always thought conversions were making one unit serve as another, but bitz bash makes sense.
>>51581032
Yeah it'd be a shame not to use such a cool model but I don't want to buy an entire second army.

>>51579040
>Three hands

working on making my first lit base, does /tg support webms? I was hoping to post a video of it when it's done.

>>51581218
It won't play sound if there is any.

>>51581112
You ok anon?

>>51579796
Yeah I bought from them, the models are surprisingly detailed for the size of the model. You definitely get your moneys worth, but assembly can be a bit of a pain because how you put the minis together, and expect a bend on the sword.

>>51581454
>expect a bend on the sword.
There models are resin right? Isn't that easily fixable with warm water?

>>51580870
>Kitbashing means "using the spure that came with it"

Anon...

>>51577545
If I rip that helmet off, will he die?

>>51581555
We've already established that I was wrong lmao. What do you think of the model?

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Just finished these movable covers. The idea is to be place them during terrain-setup on the board to fortify areas with weak terrain or areas prone to flanking. Right now I'm working on the stuff In the background that's gonna be Czech hedgehogs with barbed wire

>>51578040
Looking good man. Maybe some cool skull freehand? Just kidding definitely tabletop ready, I'd like to play against this painted fellas.

>>51581564
It would be extremely painful

>>51579869
Depends on how your dark eldar behave I suppose, if you fluff them as not all being batshit lunatics then the head would work great.

>>51576144
Definitely something related to cold water. He looks like he fell through the ice and came back through as a changed man.
Would love to see you blacken his fingers and some other protruding parts of his body like frostbite.

>>51576144
What is your recipe for the armour and verdigris anon? It looks amazing.

Bought my first ever set of orruk minis and I'm planning on painting them throughout the week,any tips to not make them look like shit?

>>51581758
Have you ever done anything related to minis before?

>>51581776
Nope, mini virgin

>>51581758
thin ur paints
prime them white if you want some vibrant colours
be aware of how highlighting and layering is different between skin, metals, and fabrics

>>51581662
how many container boxes did you get, three?

>>51581758
Thin your paints, check out the lord Duncan's videos at Warhammer TV on youtube, and take your time.

>>51581882
Prime? That means painting them White right?
Thin with water I assume, I'm really green to this so I don't know much terminology

>>51581758
-thin your paints
-watch Duncan videos if you're ever confused
-remember to Prime your minis
-multiple thin coats are better than one thick one

good luck!

>>51581662
>Czech hedgehogs
Didn't know those things had an actual name. I always thought they were just called giant caltrops or something.

Looks like I'll have to run to the game shop to buy some white paint , thanks lads!

>>51581814
Wew lad. You've got a lot to learn.

Clean your mold lines. Clean your sprue nubs. Don't use too much glue. Don't glue the mini to the base until you're done painting so you can easily reach the entire model.

Thin your paints. Apply your paint in multiple thin, clean layers. Be neat. Wash the mini. Highlight the mini. Repeat until done.

Don't get discouraged. The mini will not look good until you're totally done. The first 80% of the time you spend on it will have it looking like shit -- and then suddenly it'll start coming together.

>>51581942
prime using primer, not regular paint

>>51581942
>>51581976
Oh lord. No, primer is not just painting it white.

Go to your local auto store and buy some Dupli-color sandable primer. Black or grey, your choice. It'll be a spraycan. Best primer available for minis, hands down.

>>51582036
I think I saw some next to the models in the shop, probably made for minis should I just get them or try to find this?

>>51581942
primer is a special type of paint (usually aerosol-applied) that adheres to the plastic and forms a surface which paint can cover easily. primers come in a range of colours, most commonly used are white, grey and black, but if you were painting orks a green primer might work.

>>51581980
>The first 80% of the time you spend on it will have it looking like shit -- and then suddenly it'll start coming together.
Holy shit this. When I started painting my dudes I kept thinking "man these look like shit", and then once you start cleaning lines and applying shade and highlights, suddenly they start to look good.

>>51582075
The spray primer made for minis is absolute shit and massively overpriced. You'll pay twice as much for a worse primer, it's ridiculous. The Dupli-color sandable primer brand I mention is literally the best primer I've ever used and a lot of people swear by it. ~$6 a 12 oz can at auto stores.

>>51581713
He's a big guy.

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Pic related is what I bought, should I go with what the box shows or try to find a better way of painting them?

>>51582278
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PAINT LIKE THE BOX

You're only setting yourself up for disappointment when yours look like little green turds. Get an idea of colours, and paint those. Do not compare to tan image

>>51582339
Fair enough, was guessing I'd set myself up for disappointment if I did, thanks for the help, when i actually start painting I'll show off the progress

>>51581740

The verdigris is easy to explain, as it's mostly modelmates green and blue verdigris effects, with some brown and green wash passes.

The armour is a bit more difficult, as its a bit haphazard. Rough recipe is:

1. Basecoat 50/50 Black / Warplock Bronze eqv,
2. Warplock bronze eqv.
3. 50/50 Warplock Bronze eqv. / Hashut Copper eqv.
4. Patches of Violet ink.
5. Brown ink (concentrate on recesses).
6. Sepia ink (all over).
7. Bring back up Hashut Copper eqv.
8. Verdigris.
9. Dark Green ink (patches around and on verdigris).
10. Diluted Violet ink (patches away from verdigris and some recesses).
11. Black ink on bottom of shoulder armour.
12. Edge highlight with Hashut Copper eqv.

>>51582278
Another tip: reorientate your pictures then crop them a little so they post correctly. Not that it really matters in this instance.

>>51581913
Just two. gonna use all 6 containers as objective markers.
>>51581962
someone told me that name when i asked what do do with some styrene H-columns in a WIP thread some weeks ago.

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>>51581730
This is a cool idea, thanks! I think I'll end up making two or three bases and see which I like. Pic related, current wip for a forest-y base which is surprisingly hard to get a good shot of.

>>51582569
>Just two.
You get that many from just two boxes? nice. I need to get off my ass and buy some.

>>51582738
theyre great, the box has three sprues, each sprue is
1 container + stormbolters
3 barrels
3 long and 2 short crates ( i think)

>>51582413
https://youtu.be/IhuDEOOelrs

Watch many many tutorials before starting, to make sure you get everything down.

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>>51580733
>>51581002

Anymore c&c or suggestions for me? Kinda stuck for progress until a little bit, after the super bowl's over (or maybe before if the game keeps going this badly) I'm probably gonna head to my FLGS where I can borrow some liquid green stuff from my buddy, but I'd just like to get as much as I can before then.

Is the head really too big? I think if I chop off his neck bit and set the head to be square on his shoulders it might be a little too much, but if I greenstuff his shoulders where I cut the big horns off and have the head set a little higher it'll work. What do you fellas think?

How do I magnetize Kastelan robots?

Not finding any cincise tutorials online and every suggestion seems to be different from the next with a lot of them being without pictures and worded in a confusing manner.

>>51581758
>>51581814

Most important part is mini prep, and you should get used to it now. Those little lines running down the mini that aren't supposed to be there? Scrape those off.

Those little nubs where you clip the mini out of the plastic frame (aka sprue)? Make them invisible. Carefully cut them off with your clippers, then a hobby knife, then a file. The goal is to make it look like they were never there.

DO NOT GET DISCOURAGED. Your first minis are gonna look like trash. Get used to that now.

Watch all of these videos:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEaPE4sLDA7s-26V0v6SepDFiznb3y6hx

>>51583649
*concise

>>51583650
Different anon, but is it a matter of time and natural skill acceleration or is it learned technique?

>>51583671
Mix of both.

Things like highlighting and good paint consistency just comes with time and experience. Blending and other advanced techniques on the other hand are something you probably need to teach yourself and to practice. Just painting experience alone won't let you get good at blending without learning how the technique works beforehand.

Generally, once you have the basis down for some technique, you will eventually get good at it if you just use it from time to time. Need to properly learn how to do the gist of it, though.

>>51583671
Both.

If people weren't told they couldn't figure you need to thin your paint, prime, basecoat, wash, highlight, etc. And that's for the basics. Then you get to more advanced techniques like blending, NMM, that kind of things were again, you need to learn about it first and then practice again and again and again. You can always get better.

Hell, at some point you have to care about which way you use the brush because it has a big impact on your blending, where do you start your stroke.

But it all bogs down to practice, learning from your mistakes and challenging yourself.

>>51582265
For you

>>51579796
Just google 28mm norse or see if you can get some cheap warriors of rohan on ebay.

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Anyone have a link to an airbrushing pdf?

>>51576135
Reminds me of the LotR minis.

>>51582104
>made for minis is absolute shit and massively overpriced
You see this too often. The army painter dips are just wood stain with a different label. Some companies sell magnets in $15 containers when you could get the same set from a Chinese dude on Ebay for $2.

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What do people normally do with the blank pieces of resin in between the track assembly? Paint them black? If so, any highlighting or just treat it as a void

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Hey, so I'm designing some models that I want to get printed professionally - does a (shallow, square) channel that's 0.25mm wide sound too little, or doable (detail-wise, I know it can be printed)? I don't expect to paint it in detail, only a dark wash.

>>51584620
Black void.

Out of curiosity, do they only sell big pots of Citadel washes now? I wanted to get some Athonian camoshade but I doubt that I would ever use it for more than a couple of occasions.

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Primed and ready for tits

>>51583649
Anyone? These things are too expensive to fuck up while assembling.

>>51584708
cheers love

>>51584922
Oooh a lady Archon good choice Anon!

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Can't say that I'm used to painting Admech at all, but this seems to be coming along nicely.

>>51575412
Thine paints must be thinned and consecrated in holy machine oil, lest your warband befall ridicule by looking like they are covered in baby vomit and mud.

>>51575763
How did you replicate the effect of heating and cooling on the metal? That looks fantastic

>>51584922
>Mold lines and sprue trimmings

REEEEE

CLEAN YOUR FUCKING MINI YOU LAZY SHIT

How the fugg do you wash good?

I keep ending up with pools on the flat surfaces of the model which dry into ugly dark stains

>>51586875
Use less.
Only put the wash where you want it and when you see the wash pooling use your brush to take the excess away.

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made a bit of progress roughing up the wing

>>51586754
sorry I didnt realize this was /finished models general/

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First two Karak Norn Rangers finished. One based.

>>51587597
Those are some decent looking Duardin. Glad to see you doing the eyes as well, they really help the minis stand out.

>>51587682
Thanks. I had an easier time with eyes than the white. Arab skin left is a lot better than ruddy skin right, wound up less blotchy.

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>>51576135
I love seeing epic paint jobs on models like that

Has anyone ever used the Vallejo Metallic Medium before? Does it look good or work as intended?

How is army painter? They sell a colored spray and quick shade that are supposedly like the gw colors I've been brushing on, is the quality like Gw or Vallejo?

>>51588638
The colored primers are way better than GW stuff. There's more in the can too. And cheaper.

No first hand experience with the brush on paints though.

>>51574994

Tell me again why you wouldn't base coat models while they're still on the rack (before gluing)?

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>>51588638
from what i've read on this board, those model-dip quickshade things are both a ripoff and not very good either

their primer is good but it tends to spray a bit thick so you have to be careful with it.
their white is really crisp, and their leadbelcher equivalent is good, but tends to be a bit water and paint resistant so i dont use it much.

>>51588861
Because then you have to clean all the sprue nubs and mouldlines off them, which will scrape primer off and you'll have to recoat it.

Then you have to glue it together, and paint-to-paint contact points are much weaker than plastic-to-plastic (or metal or resin) are.

Basically it's not a timesaver at all, if anything it creates a massive amount more work for you and so is entirely pointless.

>>51588909
Gotcha, I planned on using the wick shade to dunk my larger models in instead if brushing on Agrax but I'm glad to hear the colored primer is good

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>>51583586
>>51581002
Fuck movie pyramid head. Original is best

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>>51588385
Its good stuff.

But useless unless you're the mixing type, because good fucking luck replicating anything more than a single color+medium mix.
>>51588638
Good stuff.

>>51589052
This.

It actually had symbolic meaning.

>>51588993
Dip is for mass shading rank and file. Not big models.

Skaven Clanrats, not Hellpit Abominations.

>>51589137
What is the meaning? Know jack shit about Silent Hill

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>>51589276
All of the monsters in the movie were ported from Silent Hill 2, other than the Janitor who was invented.

Basically a guy's wife had a terminal illness. He killed her, mercy killing or hate depending on how you play, and every monster represents part of his ordeal. Sexy nurses for sexual frustration while he spent his prime years in the hospital with her bedridden. Creatures trapped in their own skin that spit acid for his feelings of helplessness and him lashing out because of it.

Pyramid Head resembled the executioners drom the cult of the town. Protag read about them once, and it manifested as a representation of his having killed/murdered his wife and his desire to be judged and sentenced due to guilt.

None of the monsters make any sense appearing for young Alessia. Why would a ten year old girl dream of sexy nurses, being frustrated at being unable to solve other's problems, and judge/executioners she'd never seen?

In the game, Alessia's monsters were her fears. Insects, dogs, other children, and hunchback (like bending down to a child's level) doctors. Also they changed the father looking for a daughter to a mother because the director felt "the audiance would relate far more to a mother going to hell for her child than a father" and added the janitor raping her "to make her seem more justified". That's not even going into the dumbass decisions for the cult, or the intentional abortion that is the sequel (ironic, abortion was a plot point in the game).

Yet STILL its the only good video game live action movie.

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Finished my lion god today. Stupid lonely tree and the dung ball next.

>>51589420
God bless ya m8. Neat note on the Straightjackets is that they were supposed to look more rubbery like a "used condom" however the engine couldn't handle it.

>want to spray paint to do all these Skitarii quickly
>70-95% humidity

Winter is annoying as fuck.

Has any one here ever bought from Chinese recasters?

>>51589814
Vallejo Surface Primer my man.

>>51590035
Why

>>51590045
I do have brush-on primer, but the keyword is "quick".

Priming 20 Skitarii, the entire Eradication Cohort box, a Dunecrawler and Cawl is going to take as almost as long as normally painting an entire MEQ-size miniature.

>>51590035
>implying any of you faggots can afford real models

that one guy chuckling softly to himself while reading a magazine.gif

>>51578040
Fucking NOICE lad.

>>51586676

Drakenhof nightshade, druchii violet and seraphim sepia, ez pz. Look at duncans video

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Very keen on some feedback or suggestions on my edge highlight attempts here. (The silver and red are just initial bases, pls ignore)

I've tried not using traditional greys and used dark blues, going up to a light blue as well.

Not sure how well it's working, I think I might need to really lighten them up as they're hard to see.

Feedback if you got it please

>>51590367

The middle of the collar on the left marine is what you should use. Thin, with a second lighter blue/white NMM style highlight in the middle.

i want to try my hand at blending. gonna do it on my ogre team so i have some surface area to work with for my first time.

do you generally prime white when blending or black ? i have both spray cans here.

also any tips on what to start with? i kind of want to ease into it so i dont need to do advanced techs immediately.

>>51576135
Really cool anon I like the old style mini. I guess you could maybe for him into DnD or saga? Just speculating. Regardless he looks cool

>>51590435

There are so many youtube videos showing you what you need to see, from beginner, intermediate to expert. Go go , explore!

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Thinking of entering one of these guys into a local painting competition, the competition isn't very stiff, then again I don't expect to win.

Which of the two would you say "looks best"

There is still work to be done on both mind you

Anyone got experience with how to possibly use spray paint in-doors? Way too wet outside to use any but I wanna get my army done until next weak and it's just not feasible by doing everything by hand.
Would spraying in front of an open window work out fine even at high humidity levels, due to the dry room humidity?

>>51590569

The one on the left. It has more colors, two different weapon rust textures, and has better body with the cooler helmet and teeth belly. But the axe blade on the left is better than any of the weapons on the right. You need to add more to the leather bindings though.

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>>51590573

Buy pic related with an appropriate filter for solvents (you shouldn't be able to smell anything while wearing it), spray your shit and then open all the windows for about a quarter hour.

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>>51590573
>use spray paint in-doors

>>51590035
Ask your questions, Anon. Don't be shy.

>>51590573
open a window. cover your face and spay paint. then go take a shower for 20 minutes so you dont have to be in the same room.

>>51590609
>not including the first set of spraypaint approved filter for free with the mask

Garbage. Go buy 3M.

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Quick wip of my gaunt summoner

What do guys think so far?

>>51590463
i was just asking if its better to use white or black primer for blending.

>>51590609
>>51590680
Eh, buying a breathing mask for 30-40 bucks seems a bit excessive for in-doors spraying every once in a blue moon. Probably just going to sit it out until the weather improves.

>>51587183
It's not but have the decency to clean up parts before you start converting.

>>51590603

I was leaning toward that, thanks mate, I have a bunch of stuff to finish on the model!

>>51590696

Looking good so far mate!

>>51590729
Actually, shouldn't I be alright if I ventilate the room properly and use a simple 10€ painting mask? Spray cans won't be spraying a deadly amount of cancer gas when used for 5 minutes that wouldn't be mostly blocked by some good air circulation and a construction worker rebreather mask, right?

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>>51589475
This makes me feel kinda funny, like when we used to climb the rope in gym class...

>>51590926
Dust masks won't block organic vapors at all. It'd be the same as huffing directly from the bag.

>>51590724
What has priming got to do with blending?
Not trying to be facetious here. Just saying : you would get the same answer as if you asked what's the best colour for priming.

So, white is great for bright, vivid colours and those with shitty opacity (yelloooooow), black is great for metals or generally dirtying colours (because if you are thinning your paints, most colours are not 100% opaque).

Does that help?

>>51590729
>Probably just going to sit it out until the weather improves.

Yes.

>>51590926
>Actually, shouldn't I be alright if I ventilate the room properly and use a simple 10€ painting mask?

For real, you probably won't die from doing it once. However, you might as well start eating more bacon, smoking, and drinking more.

>>51589475
Really wish you'd dealt with that seamline around the front leg better.

>>51591019
>>51591042
Alright, waiting for spring it is then.
Thanks for saving my lungs from my ignorance.

>>51591168
Not only your lungs, m8. Your central nervous system and your brain. This shit can really fuck you up.

>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy

>>51591283
Then thanks for saving my everything, I suppose.

Spraying outside will be rather simple to do safely, though, right? Keep safe distance to the can nozzle and maybe cover my mouth and nose in case of stray paint particles?

>>51579019
Would be awesome, wouldn't it?
I just do paintovers in Photoshop (or something that lets you mess with colours separately on layers) and it is pretty damn cool. But lots of work.
Imagine if GW copped on...

>>51579019
Bolter and chainsword has a painter for
>power armor marines
>scout marines
>sisters of battle
>imperial guard
>ork boys

Back in the day GW used to have a painter for eldar and marines too.
You could use Dawn of War or something like that for those too though.

Other than that there is the russian space marine painter thing that comes with loads of extra parts.

For Gates of Antares there is a painter for Concord miniatures.

Other than that what the other anon said, using PS or Gimp or something similar would be the next best thing. I don't think it's a lot of work, but I use photoshop everyday anyway.

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Anyone know what the base model is for this?

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I'd like some c&c please !

The problem is that my whole army is blue, basically GW high elf scheme but with more blue than white.

For those who don't know the original picture is the art of the card Mayael the anima from MTG, and I think this is what Isha would look like...

I still have like 20k points of elves to paint and wfb is dead, motivation is hard to find...

>>51591781
https://puppetswar.eu/product.php?id_product=551

The rest is puppets of war as well.

>>51574994
So, I'm trying out dipping using minwax. How long should I exoect this stuff to take to dry?

>>51591832
damn, here I was hoping it was a modified 1/35 scale model

>>51591825
>I still have like 20k points of elves to paint and wfb is dead, motivation is hard to find...
I have a chaos, beastmen, empire, VC and ogre army kicking around unassembled and a bunch of halfpainted stuff for my orcs.
I feel your pain.

>>51590652
I want to buy some, but people are so overly paranoid all i've managed to get is an old email from the guys called Z or zenchui.

>>51581095
No, that's proxy/counts-as.

Can the Citadel silver spray be used as primer? Or do I need to prime first before using it?

>>51591825
That's some nice freehand. The symmetry on the eyes is slightly wonky, but other than that it's pretty spot on.

>>51591837
Come back tomorrow, you're not working on those models any more today.

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Hey guys,

Due to prolonged, abnormally shitty weather conditions, I have no way of using my chaos black primer. Is vallejo surface primer suitable for models used for table top gaming?

I don't get much time off work, and I have a lot of painting I want to get done.

Please share your success and horror stories with this product. Any help is appreciated.

>>51581980
>Don't glue the mini to the base until you're done painting
Y'know I've never actually had a base get in the way of painting, and I actually use the base to hold the mini...

Legs/feet to base is generally the -first- thing I glue even, that way I can sit the mini on a flat surface and get the angles of arms and shit looking alright.

>>51591945
https://mega.nz/#F!hEUhGZAD!Mqx_Xc2wNqdnLwVMMvijxg

Here you go brother

>>51592250
Not only is it suitable, it's an actual primer instead of Chaos Black, which is just black spraypaint.

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>>51592250
Suitable, well, it's made for this kind of thing at least. Anything scale model related pretty much is. The Vallejo primer seems short on adhesion though, don't expect the minis to stay painted for very long unless you absolutely encase them in varnish.

Stynylrez (also sold as Ultimate Primer) is probably the better choice. Many seem to like it, and it didn't fuck up on me the one time I've tried it so far.

>>51592149
I did the dip last night. I'm guessing a 24 hour cure time?

does anyone know of some "realistic" angels? I'm a sucker for angels with eyes on their wings and none on their faces, wielding swords of flame.

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>>51592466

Thanks for the advice.

I like the GW chaos black because it's the only product I've every used. It's been a solid product, but it's major downfall is that it's sensitive to temperature and humidity.

It's nice to know that there are alternatives out there.

>>51592025
Does it say primer on the can?

If not, it can, but it probably won't be terribly good at it. A bit short on bonding agents and whatnot. Plus, metallics usually want a dark colour underneath them to provide depth anyway, so grab that can of black primer and get to work.

>>51592564
...do tell us if you find any, I want that too now.

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>>51592564
>does anyone know of some "realistic" angels?

Just ... be careful getting close!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_gNgJBLa1U

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>>51592453
anon i dont even know what to say, after wading through all the hate on reddit this truly made it worth it.

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>>51592510
Hmm. I don't varnish my models, generally. I have never needed to with the GW spray cans.

The Stynylrez stuff is available at my local store. What makes it different to the vallejo surface primer? Is it just quality?

>>51592644
I've never had problems with paint scraping off (although I blast it through an airbrush, but that shouldn't make a difference). That's on plastic models. Resin and metal is another thing, though, but you need to seal them anyways, no matter what kind of primer you're using...

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Here's what I did this weekend. Pretty happy about it too!

Hi WIP general, so I'm in the beginning phases of a pretty big undertaking. I want to make myself some sisters. Specifically I am going to be making two minimum squads of 5 battle sisters, and then a ten women squad of Seraphim. I'm using a recasting technique with blue stuff to clone necessary bits, and using Sisters of Silence and Dark Eldar scourges as the base of the models with some cloned bits from the triumvirate of the Imperium box mixed in. I feel pretty confident over all, I was just hoping for some advice about specific parts of the conversions I will be doing.

The biggest question I have is what is a good way to sculpt the sleeves for them? Sisters have that half sleeve thing going on and I don't have much experience with green stuff. Any advice or tutorial links you all could provide would be very very welcome. Ditto the tabard hanging between their legs, though I'm not as worried about that one.

If anyone is interested I'd be willing to keep you all apprised of how it is going and share how I plan to do it.

Thank you for you time, and thank you in advance to any anons who provide help.

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BEHOLD!
WHERE OUR LORD WORK IS DONE!

Taken by ADB.

>>51593862
It's a nice, classic style, and the scribbles are well done as well.

Pushing the contrast with an extreme edge highlight on almost everything would be nice, and spending a little extra time on the face's transitions wouldn't do any harm.

Hazard striped chainsword would also be A++.

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>tfw your magnets are all aligned in the same direction

Never fales to amuse me.

>>51593950
>Pushing the contrast with an extreme edge highlight on almost everything would be nice
I'm provavly going to go there with the black areas on the gun and sword.

>a little extra time on the face's transitions wouldn't do any harm.
That's something I strill struggle with so I'll train on my Cadians and see what I can do on my next HQ.

>Hazard striped chainsword would also be A++.
Maybe for the next priest. I'm still not confident enough with my freehanding. The line at the bottom of the robe you can see up there were a little plus I did to chalence myself to som freehanding.

Thanks for your feedback my dude.

>>51593945
Praise the Duncan

>tfw you workspace will never be as clean as this one

>>51593945
This is actually comfy looking.

And here I thought Duncan was locked up in a dark room with only a single light source from the camera all day.

>>51593998
>those fucking fallout robots

nothing ever looked more out of place in 40k.

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Time to oil up.

>>51595178
>clothes peg to hold paper clips up

Anon you're a genius.

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what naked body should I use to make pillarstodes ?

>>51595992
Bloodreavers have some more... fetish torsos and are all ripped, but the scarred ones will be a no, similarly the ones with bone spurs.

Kairic acolytes?

>>51596210
not that anon, but the scars could be filed down and/or covered up with greenstuff, especially if he's gonna pose them up!

>>51596265

Yeah, but if he uses acolytes he can save himself the trouble.

>>51596210
thanks

Anybody here use Scale75 paints?

I've got a good chunk of them and I love how easy they make gradients, but god getting that basecoat layer down is murder. It's just so thin and transparent, some of these colors take 15+ layers to get a good solid color going it's nuts. I've been trying zenithal priming / underpainting, but even then it's suffering. And it's not even like I'm overly thinning it, this is about 2:1 paint:water, and it needs that just to get it to flow properly.

I find myself seriously considering using other paints just to undercoat the volumes before switching to Scale75 for 2-3 layers. I love that final result, but fuck me it is obnoxious to get there.

>>51597206
>I find myself seriously considering using other paints just to undercoat
mixing paint ranges is pretty standard, don't make things harder on yourself

>>51597206
Are you using them with an airbrush or brushing them on by hand?

Because I use them with my airbrush and I love them, perfect consistency and great colours, but I've never tried brushing them on by hand.

>>51597206
certain Scale75 colours indeed tend to have terrible coverage.
Their other properties are very nice, but coverage is lacklustre on quite a few.
Just provide it a base with another brand and then layer over it.

>>51597339
I've been brushing them by hand. No airbrush here.

I do find that their Fantasy & Games paints work a lot better for this. It's mostly their original range that sucks.

>>51597345
>>51597239
I'll try the underpainting, then. It's an odd concept to me, to need to paint one color before painting the one you actually want, but it at least makes sense.

>>51597407
like >>51597339 said, they tend to behave much better with airbrush, but painting by hand they seem to lose opacity very quickly.

>>51575763
nice knight

>>51593926

Forgive me if I'm being too impatient, and thereby being rude, but is there no one who could provide some advice for green stuff sculpting some half sleeves?

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How do you go about sealing your miniatures? I've got a load of LoA resin chaos dorfs and I hear resin chips easy, so I'm curious at how best to seal it without harming the paint job or dulling the colors, but also wanting some parts to remain sort of shiny

>>51597623
>without harming the paint job
If that happens you used something with a solvent in it. That'd be bad.
>or dulling the colors
there is not one varnish that doesn't change how your models look at least a little bit
>but also wanting some parts to remain sort of shiny
repaint them by hand after applying your spray on finish.
wether you want a matte, satin or gloss coat you should be able to get those on with a brush too.

Okay im trying to strip some termagants i bought and i cant seem to get the paint under the side with the gun off any tips?

>>51586562
not bad

>>51592564
>I'm a sucker for angels with eyes on their wings and none on their faces, wielding swords of flame.
sounds like the describtion of a Seraphim to me

>>51597607
It's not something many people have done. so we can't give much advice other than the standard 'how to work with greenstuff' pdfs. You'd be better off searching 'how to sculpt fabric/cloth/clothes' on google, that way you'll get specific and pertinent advice.

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Czech hedgehog cover update. made most of the terrain. now applying agrelland badlands to the surface

>>51598019
>>51597607
The From The Warp tabards/ cloaks tutorials are really good, can't link directly because they're blogs.

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>>51597529
>nice knight

It's not actually my Knight. I just keep >>51575763 to illustrate ideas about magnetizing the model, since pictures of the sprues (>>51575607) only go so far.

You have to be *really* clever with the magnetizing, or else not mind so much that some of the bitz don't quite match. For example, the meltacannon and battlecannon assemblies for the right arm are very similar, but unless you're into magnetizing the ammo (bullitt boxes for the cannon, 'ot boxes for the meltacannon), they won't look quite right. However, the gun on the front still sticks on the same.

Similarly, the upgrade sprue only gives you one housing for the carapace-mounted missiles/rockets. The only difference in the two weapons, though, is the front plate (one is Ironstorm Missiles, the other Stormspear Rockets), and both plates are the same size - a perfect opportunity for magnetizing! The other carapace weapon, the Icarus Autocannon, is a separate assembly, so you *can* actually kit out two Knights with a single sprue if you're OK with different weapons.

>>51586676
>How did you replicate the effect of heating and cooling on the metal? That looks fantastic

I imagine it's something like pic related.

>>51597952
I'd want either a Seraphim or Cherubim mini, so I could do a group of three and call them a Trisagion or get nine and call them a Choir

>>51598019
>>51598258

Thanks anons.

How best to portray icicles on my minis? how do?

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Working on an HQ for myNurgle Renegades

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>>51598481
Slaughterpriest conversion is noice, but holy shit Age of Scalecreep.

>>51598521
Yea AOS scale is weird AF, Lore is hes jacked up on tons of combat drugs and dark powers (really its just so I can pick him out from a horde of cultists)

>>51598588

Hey man he's a lord of chaos and shit, dude got mutated and swoll off the Dark God's blessing.

If I wash a white mini with Drakenhof Nightshade will I turn the whole thing blue? I'm looking for cool gray shadows but I'm not seeing anything between nightshade and nuln oil.

>>51598470
Layers of superglue where you make an icicle. (Can be done on a strand of fishing line and the superglue layered into balls instead of shafts to make an arcing through water effect.)
Clear resin/plastic carved/melted into an icicle.
Those are the two methods that I've seen done. Just look up tutorials for scenic bases and then apply the techniques onto the mini. Check out 'Snowy Stuff' by 'The'TerrainTutor' on youtube.

Is Imperial Primer suppose to be a chunky mess or did I get a bad pot?

>>51594860

But they would fit This Is Not A Test perfectly. Gonna get a few for that game once I get some disposable monez.

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>>51592564
Kill Six Billion Demons. It's got angels as conscious holy nuclear reactions steeped in eons-old kung fu residing in armored shells in the mortal world...

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>>51592564
>>51599217
...and this dude, show here in his "angelic" form.

>>51599217
>>51599248
yeah I read K6BD, I just need minis so I can play with some realistic angels. I'd be down with just Seraphim, I don't need the whole Order of angels. Hell, a single realistic Cherubim would be enough to satisfy me for YEARS.

>>51599290

You may have to kitbash n greenstuff for it anon.

>>51599310
yeah, that's seeming pretty likely. I'm kinda just looking around for a mini that could handle three sets of wings at this point, then I just need six wings and the greenstuff skill to work eyes onto every wing. Then I need to figure out what I'm gonna do with the face; right now my biggest options are hoods and scrubbing the face down to look like a mannequin.

>>51599290
Ah, was thinking you were looking for inspiration. The closest thing coming to my mind is the KDM Ivory Dragon that was revealed in the last Kickstarter, but that's:
1) A couple years away from being available>
2) Going to be $150 (comes with other minis and game content).
3) Has more hands than eyes on the wings.

Thinking about getting an airbrush but I'm concerned about where I can paint. I only really have room in my house and not in a sequestered area such as a basement. Is overspray and paint fumes a big problem? I don't want it to discourage other members of my household.

I Considered making a little containment box out of cardboard to catch any excess paint but I'm hot sure how effective that would be

>>51599348

Well what kind of body do you wan't for it? We going full biblical? Six wings, two with which it did fly, two which did mask it's face and two with which it did cover its feet? There are a couple of different variations depending on which vision you pull from and if you want to go old or new testament, but that was always one of my favorites. Probably just because I like that passage of scripture.

>>51599560
both? both.
I'd love a model of a Seraph using its wings to seal its body away, preventing its Godhead from wiping the rest of your army off the table.
But I'd ALSO love a Seraph in full battle gear, six wings spread with a flaming sword at the ready, on its way to smite the heretical.

Would it be a bad idea to spray gloss clear-coat, then brush matte varnish over the areas I want dull?

>>51599587

Your gonna have an easier time with Cherubim and a flaming sword I think. Finding wings curved right for covering its face and feet would be a bit of a bitch. Easier to find a model that can take six wings on it's back, though that is also a matter of finding the right wings I think. If they had a narrow enough connection point and you angled them right I think you could probably get one set high on the shoulders, one comeing out just below the shoulder blades and one along the lower back if that sort of look would work for you. Personally I don't know too many different model ranges, just the ones for the games I play, so I can't be of too much help selecting what bits to use I'm afraid. Biblical references are about all I can do for you, but I wish you luck.

>>51599678
honestly even the references are good, I don't have the money to kitbash this yet but I'm open to all suggestions for when I do end up buying all the pieces.

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>>51599599
>Would it be a bad idea to spray gloss clear-coat, then brush matte varnish over the areas I want dull?

Your results would probably vary by brand, but many gamers use a method similar to this to protect pieces meant for playing rather than display. The gloss varnish is tougher than the dull-cote, so it protects models that are being handled more frequently. Of particular interest would be those with waterslide transfers applied. I paint 'Ardcoat on the transfers and then put a dull-cote (Army Painter Anti-Shine, specifically) over it to keep them from accidentally rubbing off.

>>51599599
Nope. Though I've usually heard it done as Spray Gloss->Spray Matte->Brush-on Gloss

>>51599712

IMO best Seraphim descriptions are in Isaiah. Best description of Cherubim is given in Ezekiel. There are some contradictions between Visions, Ezekiel's are quite a bit more trippy than other depictions of Cherubim, but are quite detailed and have interesting symbolic meaning. Cherubim could be slightly easier to model since they only have at most four wings, but the different heads are problematic. Don't know if it would be easier to do six wings or four heads. Probably six wings honestly.

>>51599757
>>51599785
Very helpful, thanks

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Somebody got a half-way-decent deal ...

>>51599915
So is getting your own Johnny an initiation ritual for /wip/?

>>51590573
Open all windows, pull your top up over your face or wear a scarf over it or something. Leave the room to clear

Or do what I do and leave all windows shut and spray with your face inches from the model. Not to get high, I'm just lazy and retarded

>>51599757

Gloss is only tougher than matte because people spray on thicker coats because they need to make the entire miniature glossy. Gloss is also thicker in general. If you put the same amount of matte varnish on as you would with gloss, it would result in the same amount of protection. There is no chemical difference between the two substances that makes one magically more protective. Matte varnish is just gloss varnish with matting agents in it, which is the white stuff that goes cloudy when you fuck up.

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>>51599950
>So is getting your own Johnny an initiation ritual for /wip/?

Many people have expressed interest since the model is somewhat difficult to find, is a Space Marine, and is a meme born right here on /WIP/, but ... honestly? I'm sure there are plenty of ladz here who paint things that are not Space Marines (and some who do!) that probably don't give a flip.

>>51599712

Hmmm maybe scourge wings? Best I can think of off the top of my head.

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>>51582605
Bit more done!

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ok guys pretty proud of how this one turned out, feel like im getting really good at this blue armour now. i think this is my 4th ultramarine painted now, you might remember my others.

known annoyances; paints a litttle too thick for my liking but only really noticable on a few areas(my primer fucked out a little) i need to fix a few parts up and highlight/layer more of the back of the armor you cant see.

what color do i do sword as well? im kinda stumped for that ((((eyes arent done gold isnt done)))) should i go for a vibrant orangy/brown/yellow base? or go for more of a dull and dusty yellow/orangy/brown base?

your thots are much appreciated

>>51601084
I'm not sure if I think it looks like diarrhea, like chocolate or a pile of wood and mud.

I love it, keep going.

>>51601100

I love the eyes. Blood angel conversion?

>>51601100
hoooly
that battle brother looks shiny as fuck, i like it
the base should be a similar tone to the gold bits but darker and less highlighted

>>51601146
sorta lol, more of a kitbash. Grey Knight backpacks, deathwatch legs, blood angel torsos and deathwatch power swords to emphasise the romany aesthetic they have. got 4 more similar to him to paint up.
>>51601179
thanks mate.
the gold will be a lot brighter when i'm done, so that sounds like a good idea actually. tyvm.

this sword is gonna fuck me off though. like, I could maybe try red, similar to the lenses, but last time i tried that i hated it. i was gonna do it the standard power sword/lightning like eavy metal do, but i feel it would blend with the armor too much. I'm kind of thinking green, but i think that would look retarded/christmas with the eyes...

i think i will just have to git gud at red glow effects

>>51601115
All of the above.

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working on a building for mordhiem terrain

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>>51601477

>>51595178
how do you prop the models on the paperclips? do they have holes in them or do you drill holes in them?

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>>51601500
Just have to add debris and paint it... and maybe add a roof

>>51593862
Looks good, better than my one :(

>>51601506
I drill a hole a little smaller than the clip and push it inside so it holds firm with no glue. Same for the bikes and those sticks.

>>51601100
Very nice. Isn't it a little weird for an Ultramarine to have the Inquisition symbol on his leg?

>>51601100
The teal makes me think abiut SoH but it's still some very impressive work. Love the eyes.

Have you done luch blending before or is it one of your first trys?

>>51601100
If I may, if you have the latest WD, the one of Fracture of Biel Tan, they give a step hy step tutorial for a high end result for a power sword.

I challenge you to do it.

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Giving the game pieces from the Mansions of Madness boardgame a quick paintjob to really bring the game to life.

Would you recommend Blood For the Blood God as a method for adding bloodspatter?
Other comments and criticisms as well.

>>51592510
>The Vallejo primer seems short on adhesion though
Christ almighty, this.

>Prime model
>Be working on it for a few hours after it dries
>Look at the model
>Primer has started flaking off

I need a better brush on.

>>51601708
uhhh maybe?
im pretty new to the whole lore side of it. im sure i could always chalk it up as "robot gorillaman and his honor guard wear what thr fuck they want"
????
i honestly hope its not too heretical lol

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>>51601908
yeah pic' color is slightly off, its a tiny bit more blue and teal towards highlighted areas.

yeah i've done a bit of blending before, i've posted a deatwatch guy here before along with i think 2 other ultra's. pic related

>>51603024
Maybe you could say that that marine is an honorary member of the Inquisition, honored in this way by the Inquisition in commemoration for a successful joint OP in the past. And, of course, he is a source the Inquisition uses to keep tabs on the inner workings of the Ultramarines.

I dunno, I'm not terribly familiar with 40K lore, but it at least seems plausible to me. Plus it characterizes the model quite a bit.

>>51591837
Me again. The fucker is still sticky. How long does this stuff take to dry fully?

>>51603024
It's just pretty bizarre because the Inquisition is its own entirely separate thing. He'd need a good reason. Maybe he spent some time in an Inquisitor's retinue or something.

>>51602772
I've grabbed the Badger primer, no complaints so far.

>>51603178
Older fluff had Deathwatch rotating back into their chapter on and off, so that's believable.

>>51603428
Got a link?

>>51603582
https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-SNR-410-Stynylrez-Polyurethane/dp/B00K3KGUME

New thread:
>>51603978

>>51603756
Thanks.