If you have questions about a new camera, what lenses to buy and anything related to gear or wondering about getting into photography, post it in this thread.
Do not attempt to make a new thread for your new Rabal, broken glass and being new. You have been warned!
I repeat, ANYTHING GEAR RELATED goes in here!
And don't forget, be polite!
Previous thread: >>2742734
Hadn't bought anything new gear-wise in 2 years. Picked up a new body last month. Enjoying it so much I'm selling everything but 2 bodies (1 film, 1 digital) & 2 lenses (that work on both). Just feel so content about everything gear-wise. Pretty much only stuff I see myself getting for th next decade would be newer / better versions of the same stuff I own, but it's at the point where it's pretty cost-prohibitive to do so.
i have to ask because i can't find a photo comparison just techy writeups for nerds and people saying ccd has better colors but cmos is faster and x-trans has less moire and foveon has better colors
i don't want something that will be outdated in a year, so that probably crosses x-trans off the list
>people saying ccd has better colors but cmos is faster
That's an old meme. Just about every consumer dslr uses a cmos sensor these days.
>i don't want something that will be outdated in a year
Most cameras are "outdated" in a year or less, but they still continue to take great photos. If you're just starting out, learn what things like aperture, iso, and shutter speed do before getting obsessed with specs. Don't get stuck in the mindset that better specs = better photos.
The only reason to consider different specs is if it will make certain tasks easier, like higher burst rates/faster focusing for action, higher dynamic range for landscapes, etc. but all of those photos can be made with the shittiest consumer camera, albeit with more work involved, if you know what you're doing.
You mean a thinner depth of field?
You can find out for yourself:
>is there a reason why the 135mm doesn't seem as ubiquitous as the 85mm?
It's a lot more specialized. 85mm is used for a lot of portraits, by a lot of people. The 135 is more for head shots and close up stuff that a lot less people are interested in.
Hey guys... any camera bag suggestions?.
Right now I have a tiny and cheapie Lowepro which fits my lolympus om-d, two spare glasses, a couple extra batteries and a few filters, but I have it pretty much maxed out, and there is no room for anything else that is not photography related. Even a pen is a bit of a snug fit.
I've been thinking of graduating to something bigger, with a bit more room for photography stuff and some additional space for some other shit, such as a small bottle of water, a notepad, a couple pens... the usual daily carry stuff. I am also thinking of something a bit more stylish...
Another thing is that I have a tripod, and carrying the tripod bag and the camera bag gets awkward. What I do these days is stuff everything in my 25L backpack, but it's not ideal since changing lens gets awkward (I only have primes).
I need either a proper camera backpack that can carry the tripod, and with some space for other shit, or a stylish messenger bag for just the camera and other daily stuff.
I'm willing to splurge a bit, so the budget is 100-200 eur.
Suggestions are welcome.
>I've been thinking of graduating to something bigger, with a bit more room for photography stuff and some additional space for some other shit, such as a small bottle of water, a notepad, a couple pens... the usual daily carry stuff.
You want a backpack. Maybe a National Geographic or some other Lowepro or such?
Or actually, whatever looks good on Aliexpress.
... you decide what is stylish for you.
People own them. some people adapt, some people use first party lenses. Your fit with the camera will depend entirely on your needs and expectations, rather than the experiences of others.
They exist. They are good cameras for some people. If the features seem to fit well with your needs, maybe get one. If not, don't.
I dream of being able to use them because swapping out lenses would be very easy, considering now you can get fast f/2.5 and f/2.8 projection lenses adapted to 4x5 to use in place of an Aero Ektar
The A7 II is more relevant to both adapting vintage lenses and native lenses, if you can afford it.
I've found native lenses very worthwhile too, but I think they were not too great on the first A7.
So I bought my D610 and I have the nifty fifty and a Tokina 19-35mm and a 24-70 f2.8 borrowed from my uncle.
But I want to get some primes as I mostly prefer shooting with primes, right now this is the setup I have in mind.
Samyang 14mm F2.8
Nikon 50mm F1.8
Nikon 85mm F1.8G
would you add any lens?
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just got my first dslr, how do I get this automatic iso meter to display? (the bar under it)
Any medium format gurus in here?
I'm thinking about making the switch from My Nikon FX equipment to Medium format.
What's a good digital starter setup (camera, digital back and lenses), and how much should I expect it to cost?
For what. And price will depend on your region, but since you're egocentric enough to assume everyone is the same place you are, I'll assume you're in America.
Probably the 645D, or 645Z.
>For fashion. Yes, I'm 'Murrican.
That's the camera and the back together? I'm super price conscious, so if I can use an older (cheaper) film camera with a digital back, let a bro know.
With the advancements in sensor tech lately (The D810, the A7rmk2) the cheapest digital medium format is going to be blown out by full frame sensors, while still being a great deal more expensive, so be sure to check your specs carefully to be sure you're at least getting better color range, or 16 bit raw, or something that will benefit you, rather than wasting your time.
Also be aware, older DMF setups come with a lot of drawbacks and quirks. You'll be locked to base ISO for usable results, you'll have lots of glitches, you'll be dealing with unexpected loss of signal and disconnects, etc. It's not a smooth experience for under about $8000 (or whatever the 645Z costs today) and for more complex stuff like Hassy or Phase, that number goes up to about $15,000
>use an older (cheaper) film camera with a digital back
I looked into that for my rz67, and the adapters for a digital back alone go for over a grand. The actual back itself would be considerably more expensive, especially if you want a back that would be worth upgrading to from a nikon FX.
I've been offered a refurbished D7100 for my used D5200. Its a trustworthy local company. Is it a good deal?
If it's a square trade, I'd probably go for it, just for the resale value bump alone. I can't think of a single reason it would be a bad idea, especially if they're willing to give you a year warranty on the new one since it's a refurb.
You can remove fuji's baked in noise reduction in most non-adobe editors. Also, what they do or don't do behind the scenes doesn't change the results. If the results posted are good enough for anon, then they're good enough for anon.
Dismissing something for the way that the ends are achieved, regardless of those ends, is pretty ridiculous. I'm guessing you own or crave a Sony mirrorless?
Taken on a note 4, don't need no stinking camera
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>since you're egocentric enough to assume everyone is the same place you are
Not him, but who the fuck buys cameras locally?
The added increase of <$50 for shipping a >$2000 camera out of Kazakhstan isn't going to make a difference to him.
Yes, and yes.
Most are CCD sensors that fall to pieces above ISO 200, and are buggy as hell. That's one of the main reasons large budget shoots that use these backs usually have at LEST one digital tech on hand for the whole shoot, to wrangle the beast.
That's what you get for buying a $30 camera, senpai.
What camera did you use before to give you such expectations and what ISO were you using it at?
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>fall to pieces above ISO 200
I figured that.
I also figured that someone who wants a camera as big as a medium format wouldn't be trying to use it outside of the studio or controlled conditions.
What makes them so buggy?
On an American image board? No way!
It's naturally assumed most here are Americans.
I thought only bongs had to deal with VAT.
Out of curiosity, what kind of prices are we talking about in Australia.
>What makes them so buggy?
I'm not really sure. Probably a number of factors regarding synchronization and connectivity, in addition to battery requirements, large file sizes, compounded by low volume sales, and attempts to keep prices down (somewhat).
For instance, when putting a digital back on a film camera, the back doesn't know when to read for the image, since the lens/shutter isn't talking to the sensor the way it would be on a straight digital camera, so it takes some interface to get everything to sync, etc. There are a lot of hurdles.
In what conditions?
In optimum studio conditions, they perform... okay. With a digital tech on hand to make it that way. Walking around in public with no tethering, and nobody on hand to help, it's going to be a constant fight. They really just aren't made for that sort of thing. The 645D and 645Z sort of bridge that gap somewhat, but the D is buggy as well.
What is better in theory and practice?
A Foveon sensor or a 3CCD configuration using sensors of the same size?
Also, how can I change the metering on a Canon 350D when I put it into aperture priority? It wants to over expose.
The point is not that it's a novelty to be american, the point is that clearly you are american, because you don't understand that other people in the rest of the world have things to deal with besides direct shipping costs.
>I thought only bongs had to deal with VAT.
UK is the second highest visitor of the board, so "No way!" indeed.
You should probably tell us exactly what it is you're trying to do.
Also, IMHO some of the G series lenses are way over priced for what they are. The only one I ended up with was the 20mm. Try renting what you're thinking of buying first if you can.
>What is better in theory and practice?
>A Foveon sensor or a 3CCD configuration using sensors of the same size?
for what? Why would this be on your mind in the first place?
>Also, how can I change the metering on a Canon 350D when I put it into aperture priority? It wants to over expose.
read your manual. The term you're looking for is "EV Comp"
It depends on what you're going for, and which backs you're looking at specifically. Some have a higher bit rate than is available in most 35mm sensors, meaning you get more information out of the image, even if you aren't getting more resolution. For coloring and exposure work, this can be beneficial if you're in a very niche market that needs that sort of thing, in that robust way. But pure resolution or "IQ" wise, generally, a 2 generation old 50mp digital back is going to be pretty much on part with an A7rmk2 in terms of final results, for a lot more hassle, money, headache, and a lot less versatility.
>because you don't understand that other people in the rest of the world have things to deal with besides direct shipping costs
I understand it, but why is it my responsibility to learn about your taxation system if I never intend on living there?
>a 2 generation old 50mp digital back is going to be pretty much on part with an A7rmk2 in terms of final results
Thanks for the information.
If they're so bad (for the price) what keeps the price inflated?
The benefit of foveon is the lack of a filter array, because a single pixel point reads all colors in a single point. The drawback is, that for the colored light to get to the deepest level of the sensor site, it has to go through the first two levels, which means it loses a lot of it's "juice". So having three CCD sensors stacked side by side doing the same duty would theoretically be better, since you wouldn't have that penetration problem. Though you'd run into errors with paralax (a red sensitive sensor an inch to the left of your green sensitive sensor would cause a lot of issues). CCD doesn't do to well at high ISOs either, so really, CMOS would be be the better choice for this thought experiement.
But what you could do is take a single sensor without a color array (Like the Leica M Monochrome) and take three photos. One with a red filter, one with a blue filter, and one with a green filter, and then blend them in post.
>you'd run into errors with paralax (a red sensitive sensor an inch to the left of your green sensitive sensor would cause a lot of issues
Wouldn't you use a baffle between the sensors?
Well okay, so you're getting a fairly poor quality full frame sensor, very limited ISO capabilities, that is still fairly expensive because it's wrapped in a mobile bomb shelter. Batteries will be expensive, lenses will be expensive, it will be huge and heavy, and you'll be getting image quality in par with a D3000.
The "very specific type of person" that should buy a 1Ds is someone who NEEDS a full frame sensor (for some reason) but DOESN'T need it above ISO 400. But also NEEDS it to be weather sealed, drop and explosion proof, and doesn't mind having to lug a brick everywhere.
Just buy a medium pro/enthusiast crop camera with a modern sensor like the D7200, K-3 or 7DII and just deal with the equivalent focal length lenses, there are tons of pro tier ones.
Buying FF means absolutely not cheap, expensive lenses not to mention poor sensor and AF performance compared to modern cameras.
If you are poor, do the right thing and spend it smart, this way you get the same or even better results without the huge bills.
Not interference, parallax. Having your red sensor in one place, and your blue sensor in another place, and your green sensor in a third place, means that you're going to have trouble lining up the information from three sensors, since they're all going to see a different scene.
The way to lessen this problem is to of course break each of the sensors up into individual pixels, and mix them together in some sort of repeating pattern, so that you have one contiguous sensor, with individual photo sites tuned for alternating colors, in some sort of "color filter array" if you will...
Maybe you could call it a Bayer array...
I understand the drawbacks.
The biggest reason I want one is because I want to use my MF fast and wide angle lenses instead of buying the shitty plastic 18-55 kit lens or any other crop lens.
I normally don't use any ISO above 800 and I just use a flash for the times I need the light and speed.
Batteries from DEK in China run about $22.50 so they're not super expensive.
>The "very specific type of person" that should buy a 1Ds is someone who NEEDS a full frame sensor (for some reason) but DOESN'T need it above ISO 400.
That's me. I'd like a higher performance sensor, but I won't have the funds anytime soon.
I don't need the durability, but I like to have it.
>Just buy a medium pro/enthusiast crop camera with a modern sensor like the D7200, K-3 or 7DII
But the 7D Mark II is still a lot more expensive than a used 1Ds and I want to use my old lenses.
Get an original 5D, or a used 5Dmk2. Same/better image quality, less size and bulk.
Pricing on the 1Ds is pretty stably bottomed out at this point. They're going to be failing at about the same rate as people are getting tired of them.
>defeats the purpose for why I want the 1Ds
To have a FF camera with worse performance than the most basic 4 years old Rebel?
This video comes to my mind: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hk5IMmEDWH4
>To have a FF camera with worse performance than the most basic 4 years old Rebel?
To be able to use 35mm lenses and not concern myself with crop factors.
I'm already using a Canon 350D
There has actually already been a camera system that utilizes three sensors for a single image. The system takes a single beam of light, and splits it off into three different directions with prisms and mirrors. However, the obvious drawbacks of such a system (battery power, processing power, size, expense) mean that it's generally a lot better to go with a standard high megapixel sensor with a bayer array.
A crop sensor won't magically reduce your aperture, the same amount of light will get through. Don't listen to Northrups pseudo phony science!
Also there are high quality wide angle lenses very much usable with crop sensors, just look at Samyang/Rokinon lenses.
It's like an "older" MILC to me. [Sensor and AF are 1-2 generations behind the state of the art, if you ask me - Sony and Panasonic and Olympus have better stuff now].
Some software features that can be worked around in post like its AWB were not too reliable either, IIRC. I chalked those down as not deal breakers, but still extra boring work that I'd like to avoid.
But it is compact, seemed robust, had good usability with a nice amount of knobs and wheels. And the lens was okay. It'll work out okay if you just wanted a decent to good portable camera.
The fact I shoot one and swear by it.
Same thing for the RB67, both cameras were highly praised until I acquired both.
I should buy a Pentax 645Z and every Sony camera and /p/ will hate them too. Want to get rid of Pentax viral marketing? Give me one
I think you're giving yourself too much credit, as always.
I would love to see you spend more than a few hundred bucks on a camera, though. Maybe not a 645z, but something current gen?
>Look at X-pro2 specs\
>"Ready" for [email protected], 120hz EVF, and USB 3.0
>tfw they will save 4k for a body that never sees the light of day
>tfw X-E2s instead of X-E3
>tfw Fuji are going the Canikon route of upgraded models by making differences negligible and incremental instead of substantial upgrades
You could have stopped this, /p/
Thinking of getting into photography in the next year or so how do you guys feel about canon vs nikon? Any advantage of one over another? Just general thoughts on how you feel about them.
Also where is a good place to learn about photography in general ,dslrs, and how to improve. I've looked at sticky havent read it all yet but any good websites for information or youtube channels?
Looking at my next lens (currently just have a kit 18-55mm)
Borrowed my friends camera before I bought this one, had the 18-55 but also a 50-150. Returned it, now I miss the extra focal length
I can either buy a 'long' (>150mm full zoom) lens or a pancake lens... The latter being the apparent popular choice here
Which should I get, and why are pancakes so popular?
Sony A-mount BTW
He is right, you should have a look. Canon / Nikon often offer worse feature sets at the same price points than the competition, that's why the competition still exists.
And Sony is even threatening to cut the Nikon / Canon near-monopoly in various of the high-end corners of digital photography very directly.
> and why are pancakes so popular?
People like small things that are easy to carry... or that they can convince themselves that are easy to carry?
Besides, they're often pretty cheap. People like cheap stuff.
> Sony A-mount BTW
I recall the SAL70200G was good, personally I'd have a look at that one.
Got this today from a yard sale
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I need an entry level flash for my Canon 7D and general purpose use.
I had this on my wishlist for years but it appears sold out now.
What do I buy?
just received samyang/rokinon 12mm f2 in the post
pretty impressed with the build quality.
what a bargain.
it's tiny too, feels really well balanced on an xe-1.
might go out later today and test it if the light improves.
You can do both fine with a non-TTL flash.
And if you shoot your items with some sophistication and multiple lights eventually like a product shot proper, the difference is next to nothing.
TTL is however nice for random events and places with people that move around, when you might not have time to adjust settings in any detail, but just need good lighting without overexposing. It can provide that.
what is your budget? Sony is doing some pretty rad shit these days in the mirrorless world. I moved from a Nikon system to a Sony a6000 and will soon be going to an a7smkii for video. Fujifilm, Panasonic and Olympus are also great options for mirrorless, but I have less experience with them.
Hey /p/, I want to buy my first reflex while I'm in Japan. I was thinking of the EOS Kiss X7 (100D / Rebel SL1) in a kit with the Double lens Kit EF 40mm F2.8 STM + EF-S 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 IS STM for 410$.
See here https://www.mapcamera.com/item/4549292017212
What do you think ?
How does it compare to this one: https://www.mapcamera.com/item/4957792101186 (700D)
Hey friends, I'm going to buy a D7100.
I already have the following Nikon lenses: 50mm 1.8 and 55-200mm 3.5-5.6.
My question is should I buy a D7100 with the 18-105mm lens or a 18-55mm (cheaper, but its not such a huge difference in price).
I ask this because I think that, perhaps, with a 18-105 I would stop using my 55-200mm. If I buy a 18-55mm I would still have use for the 55-200mm.
I know that this is a weird question and in the end it all boils up to my own personal preferences but I'm new to photography and I'm interested to know your opinions on the matter.
DX format wise, is there any big difference between a 35mm and a 50mm? As far as I know they are equivalent to (respectivelly) 50mm and a 70mm.
In this manner, in a DX body a 50mm would be a short tele and a 35mm would just be your standard 50mm.
I already have a 50mm on my DX camera, should I buy a 35mm? Or should I save more money and buy a 20/24/28mm?
18-105mm is an (almost?) all-in-one lens for most people.
As someone who almost only uses primes, it wouldn't be for me, but perhaps it's just what you wanted?
Even if I wanted a zoom lens, I think I'd almost certainly get a Sigma Art 18-35mm before an 18-105mm. Better glass > minimum amount of lenses.
> I will do mostly portraits and nature but I don't need a big zoom for the moment.
Personally, I'd get an A6000 or something then.
Better sensor and burst shots and more for portraits.
> That's why I like the fact that the kit has the 40mm pancake.
The 40mm does sound decent, sure.
So, a lower-end 18-55mm, then? Would depend on the lens, I guess.
Stupid question, what stops you from using an 18 or 24mm prime to augment the 50mm prime and declaring the range essentially covered? Too many lenses in the bag, then?
Is that even true really? I have a dinged up Jupiter 8 with little strands of fungus, and haven't really quarantined it in any way. I do keep a silica gel pack next to it just in case though.
dry air can slow it down but it will infect the first the bag then the other stuff, lenses and bodies. Throw that shit out and send your bag in to dry cleaning, that should disinfect it.
Fungus has spores and those strands you see on the glass are only small parts of it.
Dude I think you're way overthinking it, it's not like it's ebola or something. I promise I'll clean the fungus when I cla the lens.
Also I've been shooting the lens outside, it's about -20c here. At least I doubt it's a happy little mushroom.
I'm looking for a half-frame film camera and I saw a Fujica Drive selling for $35.
Is this any good? Or should I stick to Olympus Pen instead?
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To be frank, I'd love to have only primes. Problem is that where I'm living right now (small city in Brazil) I don't have a lot of cheap options for primes. Entry-level zooms on the other hand are plenty.
That sucks then. Still be on a lookout for them on local forums. Also the most standard primes like 50mm or 35mm from the brands are always cheap, but that depends on what camera you are using which information would help us a lot in helping you.
18-55mm + 35mm 1.8g or just the 18-105mm?
I already have a 50mm 1.8g and a 55-200mm.
Nikon D3200 (DX crop frame)
Hm, it's not too bad.
Good lenses will do better at f/8, though, and often also wide open. This is a rather good one at f/1.8
I shoot basically 60% concerts, 20% portraits, 20% etc, and I have a 5DM2
I'm debating going mirrorless because I want to be able to push low light capabilities as much as possible so I have a few questions
where do I go?
a7s would be the sickest shit because of how well I can work the low light except I don't know if that's the best option if I'm trying to take stills
I don't know shit about the a7/a7ii
a7r looks good but the a7rii looks even better. except it's not that I can't afford it but I'm wondering if there's an option better than spending all the money I have at once. a7rii seems to be the best choice because I would use photo and video pretty equally at that point
tax returns are tite
>Pretty sure it only has CDAF, even if that is somewhat fast on recent Sony cameras.
I think he means PDAF with Canon lenses. Every recent FF sony mirrorless has on-sensor PDAF of some sort, and it's good enough for stills and action. Sliiiightly slower and less accurate than a $2000+ action DSLR+lens combo but it's still good.
Maybe you should get a D500. Gotta shoot wide open a lot in low light and with APS-C it's a bit easier to get stuff in focus. AF+metering from the flagship D5 and 10 fps. 200 raw buffer with XQD card! Only question so far is how good the high ISO performance is, and from early leaks it seems to be a winner. Should be significantly better than your 5D mk ii.
I want to take pictures on a boat. Is something like this good enough to protect my camera from the elements? Should I worry about humidity or anything else like that?
On a dinghy/zodiac/something close to water in rough seas? You'll want a bag at the least.
On a barge/large seacraft/etc.? You don't need anything if you've got pro-grade weather sealing in lens and body.
whats better? i've seen image comparisons between the k-3 and full frame d600, and the raw files from the k-3 had better contrast, color reproduction, and black levels. obviously not low light or high iso performance, but the k-3 is a phenomenal camera and can be found for 600-800 bucks for full pro weather sealing, extraordinary iq, and ergonomics that are outstanding, though thats not an objective measure
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Are any of those small and cheap travel tripods worthwhile? I just need something small and light to throw into my backpack for some occasional night shots, video clips or my Zoom H2N. I'm 95% hand held.
I had one of those Gorilla pods but the feet have gotten really loose, so I'd rather not one of those.
As a Pentax owner I know the good qualities of the K-3 but it is not a pro-grade camera. It is an advanced/enthusiast or semi-pro camera, being a semi-pro highly depends on what you are using it. For example it is a great portrait and wedding photography camera with the right lenses but for action it has limitations.
The build however is solid, not just compared to it's class but for higher class, it can take a lot of rough hiking in bad weather, even the entry level ones like the K-50 or K-S2.
I would never suggest it for serious work, but for hobby use and limited budget it is the best one out there.
tl;dr: the guy saying it is an exceptionally good build is true, it being pro-grade is not.
Stability out of those two, but my most important criteria is that it's small and light so I can just keep it in my bag without it adding much extra weight. My girlfriend has a proper sturdy full-size tripod I can use if I want to do real landscapes or something, but that isn't really my type of photography.
I've been just laying my camera on the ground really, but now that it's freezing and there's shitloads of snow I don't really want to...
Been playing around with my new Dslr. But my photojournalist buddy was showing me his ARGUS 35 mm. I think im gunna cop they are not to bad, anywhere from 30-100 bucks. Is there any difference besides aesthetics in these models?
what qualifies a camera as being professional or pro-grade, besides perhaps sensor size? what would turn you away from using say a k-3 for pro sports coverage or wildlife for nat geo
Obviously the camera has to perform well in those situations, but if I had to make a living from photography, pro-level support (not the usual consumer support) would be the first thing I would weigh.
I know Nikon had some serious issues in their pro support department, some of those serious enough to move away from the system entirely. I don't know much about Pentax but the recent special release of the 645Z IR makes me think they actually have some sort.
To be sure I would go with Canon and keep my K-3 as a secondary body. If Pentax actually comes out with a good support plan with their FF body I would be tempted to go all Pentax, they have most of the usually needed lenses. It would need some extra research to get them but it is possible.
Also taping down the brand marks would be one of the first things to do. They are very distracting in wildlife.
This is all a thought experiment, I have a better job than that and I like having photography as a hobby.
>This is all a thought experiment, I have a better job than that and I like having photography as a hobby.
same, i bought the k-3 for its weather resistance and ergonomics. i tried a friends 7d and hated how it felt, very clumsy and bulky imo. its just a hobby for me and i cant really see needing another camera ever. its not the like image quality can get worse, just worse wrt newer better cameras but theres only so much you need to be able to do with it at the level i want/need to
Your camera is a new experience for you, don't get caught up on idolizing it. It's a straight path to being a gearfag and brandfag.
I also tried out a bunch of different cameras, Nikons Canons mostly and they felt different. Nikon more than Canon but I wouldn't hate on them just by this. All of them performed very well, even my friends 7 years old 40D. I liked how it was similarly quiet as my K-3. The D7100 felt clunky in my hands and the loud SLAP-CLACK sound only added to it, but it still made quite good photos. Not very ideal for nature though, one single exposure would scare wildlife away in miles.
on a DX body if I already have a 50mm prime, is there any reason why I should invest in a 35mm?
I never got this obsession with customer support. How exactly is "pro support" different from regular support? Do they send somebody out to suck your dick when something breaks? All they need to do is take your broken shit and send you new shit or fixed shit. If you're a professional you'll have enough gear that losing a piece for a week or two won't put you in the poor house.
> Every recent FF sony mirrorless has on-sensor PDAF of some sort
No, the A7S series doesn't, as you or another anon just realized in >>2745901 .
Just so that the guy who originally asked questions doesn't buy something they regret.
You can get relatively strong low-light ability, PDAF and so on in the A7R II, or you just "make do" with the anyways quite strong CDAF performance on the A7S / A7S II.
Not if they're TOO cheap and too small.
But I can recommend the Dic&Mic E302C from Aliexpress. Definitely working fine, and relatively cheap.
There also are a bunch of good Sirui / Benro.
i just recently bought the ravelli pistol grip 70" and the reviews are pretty accurate
its nice and tall, the pistol grip is nice to use, and it stinks like shit when u take it out of the bag, like horribly inefficiently processed plastic. im used to my dads heavy slik tripod so the weight isnt an issue, and have only used it in my carpeted apt, so i cant speak to its stability, but i love the pistol ball head for manoeuvring the camera
i also had considered a dolica carbon fiber 60" for 100 bucks but went with the ravelli for 60
Dic&Mic E302 or E302C for $90 - 120 are good compromises and actually useful. Maybe you can find something slightly cheaper that still has all the features and stability and stuff, but I'm personally not aware of those.
Please don't define budget tripod as a $10 Weifeng or $20 Amazon Basics or something, they're really basically all crappy pan-tilt heads.
Not one of them that I've seen so far was good, you're better off resting cameras on a backpack.
In the mail and on it's way, so excited.
Have some old stuff up on CL at super low prices, feels bad no one's buying it. F100 & 50 1.2 ais for $300 (also selling individually) and a Nikon V1 kit for $100. Hoping they'll all go in the next few weeks, if not, ebay?
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so the a7s is straight with stills? I get that it's crazy good for low light but I need fast focus just as good as low light and I don't really know anything about focus on any of them
stabilization is important but not super important. concerts are more about the artist moving and not me
would rather not go nikon. would go 5dm3 or 6d before nikon.
would 12mp be enough? I know it shoots 4k photo but like, how big are the images? are the big too? I literally don't know anything
I need a tripod plus head, mainly for landscapes. Not too pricy, but no cheap shit that I'll ditch in a month.
Asking for what to get I'll probably get a ton of different answers. Anything I should definitely not get?
> so the a7s is straight with stills?
Yes, fast CDAF is good for that.
If your stills often happen in non-optimal light as -maybe indoors or at dawn or dusk or even at night under random non-photographic artificial lighting- then this is one of the best cameras to use.
> would 12mp be enough?
For a lot of purposes, yes. What effective resolution you get very much depends on he lens too. And of course how well you frame your subjects (further cropping and rotating and stuff can loose you a lot of resolution).
> how big are the images?
"12MP" / "4k" are about what people would find aesthetically pleasing if you used a good prime lens.
With a mediocre lens, you should probably consider only doing 8MP.
How big you can physically display / print that? Depends entirely on viewing distance and purpose.
You probably should get a ball or gimbal head, they're IMO really quite a bit better better suited to still photography than pan-tilt heads [especially than cheap pan-tilt heads, high-end pan tilt heads with axis locks and stuff are also pretty neat].
I'll also recommending one that uses Arca Swiss compatible claomps. Much better than getting some random proprietary system.
As for specific heads, I'd say the Sirui KX series of heads is great. They're only about $100-150. I dunno if that is cheap to you or not.
In case it's too much, there also are the Sirui G series for like $60-90, or the Dic&Mic heads for $35-60.
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM (seems clean and looked after) for $350 dollarydoos. Worth it?
there's just not much to think about here. you could even flip the lens immediately for a tidy profit if you wanted to. it's a 1st party fast telephoto zoom at a wonderful price. gratz and enjoy it, and when you're ready sell it off and use the proceeds to buy the IS version.
(disclaimer: i shoot nikon) all of this said i personally think the canon telephoto 2.8 zoom to get is the Magic Drainpipe; IS is nice but it's just one consideration
check to make sure the autofocus works as well as whatever else might be fucked with the lens. just seems strange such a lens is being sold at that price.
Can anyone point me to what the major differences are between the Sony A7II and the A7RII?
It seems to me it's just the bump in resolution, and the back illuminated sensor. It's the same sensor though isn't it?
what do you guys think of Nikon's 18-105 3.5-5.6g ??
Is it that bad?
>bump in resolution
>It's the same sensor though isn't it?
I have a NatGeo Walkabout bag from china, pretty much the same as the original, not a single faulty bits, not eve the sewing.
It lacks the holographic tag but that is the only difference.
Which one? I just ordered this one from Aliexpress myself.
It's a very nice bag, much nicer than I expected for its price.
Cool, I wasn't expecting anything so that's reassuring. I'm only worried about the plastic parts but hey, for €30 I can't really complain. Will probably rip the logo out and it should be great.
Is it waterproof at all btw?
not everyone is so terrified of being accused of wanting attention that they won't buy a backpack due to a small logo of a popular magazine
no one's going to call you an attentionwhore for having a national geographic backpack
I need a macro extension tube for my 50mm f1.4 so it can be used for dslr film scanning. Does the cheapest ching chang wing wang Chinese brand extension tube alreafy enough or should I get branded ones like Kenko etc.?
A FF camera means you will need much more expensive FF lenses. Since there is very small difference between todays FF and APS-C sensors with the latter beating older FF sensors I'd suggest going with a D7100 or D7200 and some flashes.
Hi /p/, I'm looking for a small and affordable mirrorless cam with good low-light properties. Which one of the following would you guys choose?
>Olympus E-P5 + Zuiko 17mm f/1.8 + evf
>Sony A6k + cheapo Sigma 30mm f/2.7
>Samsung NX500 + Samsung 30mm f/2.0 (Though Samsung seems to be quitting the camera business..)
I'd go with the samsung unless you need the EVF. They aren't quitting the camera business though. They are going to announce a new camera as near the announcement of the a7000, probably a nx500 type of body with an evf, some people believe is a FF camera with smart adapters for nikon and canon mounts, but that's too far fetched imo. Anyway if you want to be on the safe side get the sony.
m43 is never an option, unless you know that it's limitations won't get in the way of you photography.
you know, I guess it doesn't make a gigantic difference. I shoot with a 5DM2 which is like 22 megapixels? for some reason that had me believing the image was much bigger but it's really just 1200 or so pixels less
I guess it's a tradeoff. I don't print that often, but I'm looking towards doing bigger things with my photography in the next year (sounds cliche) and that involves more printing.
I shot an album cover about two weeks ago and that's kinda what concerned me. that requires a big picture but I guess it's an even tradeoff if I'm getting images with better IQ, right?
bigger picture (5dm2) vs. higher quality (a7s)
plus, being able to shoot at more narrow apertures will make my job more sweet. it sucks having to shoot 3200 ISO at f4 and still edit in post
>stabilization is important but not super important. concerts are more about the artist moving and not me
Stabilization is super important if you want to capture movement (motion blur).
Because you'll want the background to stay perfectly sharp and only blur the moving parts (say, the hands of the guitar player, or the drum sticks).
Without stabilization you'll need to keep the camera extremely steady.
eh I prefer to keep motion blur to a minimum for the most part. not like 100% clean but I dunno. I usually shoot at 1/125-1/320
what I'm trying to say is that IS isn't going to make the person on stage more steady, only the camera. worst case scenario I can buy a gimbal for the a7s if I'm taking video. the a7sii has IS built in but there's no way I can spend that much money right now
plus that brings the a7sii versus a7rii argument and i dunno. that's a level past where i am right now financially
p.s.- why does it say there's possibly a malicious code in my photo? took a screenshot instead
> you know, I guess it doesn't make a gigantic difference.
Yea, in most situations it just makes framing more important because you can't crop as much and stuff.
> I guess it's a tradeoff.
In daylight, it is.
In low light specifically, it's even kinda not. See, if you get typical pretty severe low light sensor noise and then use a noise filter in post to get rid of most of it, you'll loose ~1/2 to 2/3 of your resolution anyway.
> I shot an album cover about two weeks ago and that's kinda what concerned me. that requires a big picture but I guess it's an even tradeoff if I'm getting images with better IQ, right?
Yep. Besides, for an album cover, 12MP are *plenty*. At 300 DPI, you still get a "perfect" at 35x24cm or something.
Just stick a good lens on it and it will be fine.
> plus, being able to shoot at more narrow apertures will make my job more sweet. it sucks having to shoot 3200 ISO at f4 and still edit in post
Certainly sucks when 3200 ISO is already starting to show quite some noise, yes.
Anyone have any recommendations for a softbox for speetlights/light guns? I got a few off amazon because I want to get into flash stuff, and I picked up some stands and umbrellas for a pretty good deal. Looking to get more modifiers now and I figure a few softboxes would be the next logical step.
A hispanic man named Manual takes the pictures for you
Your exposure is determined by the position of your window shutters. If you have curtains don't use this setting
A valve games in-joke about them prioritizing Portal games over Half life but still putting hints to half life into Portal 2
Manual exposure is just that, you manually choose the aperture and shutterspeed to make an exposure. Since you're asking, I don't know if you actually know what exposure is or not, but that'd be the first step to look into. It's how much light hits your sensor and depicts the photo, basically. For manual you choose the aperture which determines how much light enters the lens, and the shutterspeed which determines how long the sensor will be exposed to the light.
Shutter Priority lets you just choose a shutter speed, and the camera will adjust the aperture automatically to match your shutter speed.
Aperture priority is the opposite. You choose the aperture (how much light is entering the lens) and itll pick the shutter speed for you.
i never understood the point of asking questions like this.
>turn on camera
>select manual mode
>determine what it means/how to use it
>select shutter-priority mode
>determine what it means/how to use it
>repeat until you have a satisfactory understanding of how your camera works
nah you have to think about it as if you had 0 understanding. I mean its one thing to tell them to google it themselves and figure it out on their own, that's cool, but without at least knowing what each mode means it's kinda just like fucking around with dials and buttons when you have no idea what they do. I understand having the question.
you fuck with the buttons, see what each dial does, and whether that affects other settings or not.
ex: in shutter-priority mode youd notice that changing the shutter would change both aperture and iso to get a correct exposure, but in manual the shutter speed dial would only change the shutter speed, leaving the other settings unaffected
people expect instant knowledge and never take even a tiny amount of time to learn anything by doing it on their own
like when i got my camera i went through the menus and looked at all the settings, what settings were available in each mode, and how they affected the images i took. same thing with all the dials and focus modes, and everything. it took like 2 days to fully understand everything in my camera and everything it can and cant do. much more beneficial than reading a manual or asking for help, because then you only have very specific information for specific circumstances
thinking about picking up a geared tripod head. either pic related sexy c-1 cube at the cost of eating for a few months or a manfrotto 405 or something better if you think it's out there.
I don't usually crop too much anyways.
what I'm saying is 3200 f4 on my 5DM2 is passable but noisy. with an a7s, I could shoot 12800 f6.3 or whatever. just the ability to push further
the worst part is i don't know anybody with an a7s to borrow and try out before i buy it and i don't really wanna rent it
I have an Arca p0, it's good enought that I would blindlt recommend other Arca products.
Whereas on the other hand, Manfrotto makes a stack of plastic garbage with proprietary quick releases.
What the fuck do you want a geared head for anyway?
If you're even considering a ballhead as an alternative, then you definitely have no need for a $1500 Cube. They're exclusively for precision fagtronica like stiched panos or super anal still life.
The p0 is a very good ballhead though, at a very reasonable price if you attach your own quick release. I use it with a medium format camera all the time, it's solid.
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uuugghh i got some neewer light guns and triggers, the triggers and remote are set to the same freq (switches in the same position), triggers connected to flashes through hot shoe and the remote connected to camera through hot shoe. they're not firing and i have no idea why. any ideas? cameras nikon d3300 btw
Anybody here have any experience with ztylus phone lenses? I'm looking for a new case for my iphone and I figured that it could be cool to have a macro, wide angle, fisheye lenses, and a polarizing filter for my phone, since I have that 75% more than my actual DSLR.
That's a pretty good deal. However, the ridiculous telephoto will not lend itself to a beginner, and unless you're shooting birds or long range street like my boy Eggy you might as well just sell it and get a decent prime lens (35mm or 50mm are best for beginners). You can easily recoup the cost of buying the camera by selling the lens
Why do camera companies replace the prime 50mm from the 70's that comes with the camera with a zoom kit lens like the 18-55mm? In my experience with Nikon, the only good zoom kit lens that comes with the camera is the 24-85mm f3.5-4.5 that comes with the D600. The 18-55, 18-105mm etc. sucks. Why did they replace the prime 50mm as the kit lens when it is sharper, better in low light, smaller (also have pancake versions like in this pic), and is better for beginners.
Is it cheaper to manufacture? Or do consumers just prefer zoom? Did this happen in the 80's when zooms got more attention?
Imagine being a typical retard and buying the most expensive camera you can find at best buy for your vacation and the very first day you get there you turn on your brand new fancy camera and find out it doesn't even zoom. Consumers absolutely demand zoom lenses, small size, light weight, and low prices. Optical quality is pretty much the last concern for most people except the photo forum autists.
I mean, it's a lot easier to ask bored strangers on the internet about how your camera works rather than sift through information either too complicated for the average retard or too simplistic to gain from.
Sure you'll get an ornery anon like yourself who tells people to fuck off and figure it out themselves, but what does saying that actually accomplish? They'll just ask again in another threat, or god forbid make a whole thread about it, and some anon will come along to spoonfeed them.
zooms are easier to market, and sell more cameras. a camera with a fixed focal length vs a zoom camera, the zoom wins almost every time. also it gives a nice upgrade path so the mfg can squeeze some more cash out of the camera buyer.
I only have the 40 pancake. FF body.
What other lens should I get? I shoot landscape/travel/sometimes wild life if I see it and street shit mostly. I am planning to get into studio portraits but I think the 40 is good for that. Tight budget, $600 or so.
And I don't want a shit quality lens. I'd rather save up than buy a lens quickly and not get decent quality (decent being like the 40mm)
I love a fast 35mm f/1.4 on my 6D. It's the perfect focal length for it. Wide enough for more dramatic landscape but long enough for subject isolation perfect for portraiture.
Though I prefer 50mm f/1.4 for street. I'd say 35mm is a more versatile focal length.
But if save a bit more, you could do with a 24-70mm f/2.8 and that's my most used lens. A bit heavy and bulky for street, but shoots pretty much everything nicely. The Tamron VC USD is a great value lens.
I have that EF 40mm f/2.8 STM pancake and I have only used it twice. I might as well just sell it.
How is the image quality on that 24-70? That's my main concern, is it sharp? What apertures is it sharpest at? Have you shot animals with it? Maybe a few shots that I could look at (here or a portfolio/website)?
Thanks heaps either way mate. I think I'll stick with the 40 for now and save up for a zoom, probably the one you mentioned.
The Tamron plenty sharp at f/2.8 at the centre. But compared to the $2,000 Canon version it's a tiny bit softer in terms of contrast at the extreme edges.
With the VC it's the most versatile pro-level lens in the EF mount with the new $2,500 Nikkor VR version the only better option (but I don't think it's worth the extra cost).
Vignettes a bit at 24mm but that's easily fixed in post.
If you're a fool framer then it's a no brains lens to get. I do some paid shooting with it.
Functions and events. Haven't done much studio work but can't see why you can't use it for that. Stopped down to f/8 and it's a pub sharp lens across the frame. Shooting with controlled lighting and a patient model/client would result in really nice work.
I'd suggest having a very good look at each specific lens though. Some older copies of the Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 VC USD may have miss-focusing issues. Buy at a reputable retail store and not online if you don't want any issues.
Had a good play with three different lenses before choosing the one I liked the most. Was a bit of a issue with the language barrier since I got it from Tokyo though lol
I'm an entry level photographer, very basic setup right now with a nikon D3200 and a 35-70mm VR lens. I feel fairly comfortable with the lens but something feels like its missing. Suggestions for my next lens? I'd like a tripod and a few filters or something to remove the glare from the sun during daylight photos. Also tips on cleaning a lens properly?
I just got my first DSLR it's a Canon 700D Twin lens kit. 18-55 and 55-250 Question on lenses;
Also, Should i also shoot in RAW Or JPEG? I have no experience with editing, so i'm learning that as i go.
Which lens would be better for photographing the following;
Also; would this be a better budget lens as an upgrade over my Canon 55-250 for shooting birds/long distance stuff etc? OR should i stick with my current kit lenses and get used to them/better at photography first.
Sigma AF 70-300/4-5.6 DG Macro Lens - Link below to lens.
18-55mm lens: Family(35-55mm range), Landscape, sunsets (18-24mm range), Macro with extension tubes at 55mm range, f/16-f/22
55-250mm lens: Sports, Birds/Wildlife, both at higher shutter speed, 1/400s, birds at 1/2000s, panning shots at 1/200s
Use shutter priority primarily, aperture priority for portraits.
For macro you will need a tripod and good lighting.
The Sigma lens is as much a macro as your current 55-250. If you want an upgrade in that range, look for a used Canon 70-200 f/4 or f/2.8.
>RAW Or JPEG?
Either is fine. RAW is more versatile (gives you more latitude in processing), but requires going through some sort of conversion software at some point (Lightroom, Capture One, Darktable, etc).
The 18-55, or get the 50mm 1.8 STM
The 18-55, maybe get the 10-18mm
>Birds/Wildlife stuff... Sports... Macro
The 55-250, get extension tubes for Macro
> upgrade over my Canon 55-250
250 to 300 is honestly pretty negligable, you'd get the same picture by just cropping a little a bit. There really isn't anything better suited for far away stuff unless you wanna spend +$1k.
The 55-250 for macro is not a good idea, the lens corrections are closer to parallel. There is a method with using a wide angle lens mounted backwards on a tele lens with a reverser ring though.
Using extension tubes with the 18-55 will give more than paper thin depth of field, much better for a beginner with a closer focusing distance. Much less tinkering with setting the correct distance.
Also worthy to note that in macro focusing is done by moving the entire camera back and forward, hence using a tripod is better.
I often go kayaking and would like to shoot birds that are flying and across the other side of the lake would i need more than the 70-200mm?
Alright, I'll keep it JPEG for now until i have some editing software and get more serious about it.
Will the average joe be able to tell the quality difference between JPEG And RAW on print?
Extension tubes? can you point me in the right direction for some research about them?
Is this lens decent? or should I pick up the canon 24mm prime? Also, what is /p/'s thought about the Samyang 14mm? I think its produces some sexy motha fuckin images.
> Also, what is /p/'s thought about the Samyang 14mm? I think its produces some sexy motha fuckin images.
It's good. If you have focus peaking support on your camera (even with CHDK / Magic Lantern), you might want to get one.
> Is this lens decent? or should I pick up the canon 24mm prime?
How about the Sigma Art 18-35mm f/1.8 as an alternative?
Got a Ricoh KR-10 and some 35mm Fujicolor 200 film arriving tomorrow.
£25 for the camera, case, 50mm f2.0 lens and remote shutter.
£22 for 10 rolls of film.
How bad did I fuck up /p/?
How about telling them to just read the damn manual? It spells out everything to them and the best part is it's specific to their camera. It will show them which dial is for aperture and which is for shutter if they have two dials.
Stop coddling people, you're the problem with the world today.
So I have $1500 to spend and I wanna upgrade from a canon t2i to a Canon 6D
The problem I'm facing right now is finding the body and good general purpose lens to go along with it.
Now you might tell me to just use that $1500 and buy more lenses but I shoot at night mainly and the iso sensitivity and sensor size are no longer doing me any favors.
>I shoot street photography and portraits
>I just own a kit lens and a 50 f/1.8
>I've owned and rented some other high end lenses in the canon L-series and the Sigma art series, I liked those but they're really not in my price range if I plan to buy the body and one lens (for now)
>anyone know where to find a cheaper 6d for lower than 1200?
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