If you have questions about a new camera, what lenses to buy and anything related to gear or wondering about getting into photography, post it in this thread.
Do not attempt to make a new thread for your new Rabal, broken glass and being new. You have been warned!
I repeat, ANYTHING GEAR RELATED goes in here!
And don't forget, be polite!
Previous thread: >>2744530
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Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 OS HSM - $900
Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 Di VC USD - $1,000
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM - $1,100
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM - $2,100
Which one senpaitachi? I need a fast tele for my fool frame 6D. Would like to take it when I travel so I can street-creep from a fair distance.
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>JPEG And RAW on print?
No. That's not the point of RAW. The whole deal with RAW is that you can pull off so much more dynamic range from recovering blown-highlights and underexposed areas. Allows you to enhance shots to your liking and recover shots which would have been just a throw away if shot on JPEG.
Always shoot RAW (with JPEG if you're lazy), and when you can be bothered enough to post process.
So I've been thinking about getting into photography for a while now but even after hours of lurking on /p/ all these camera brands and model numbers still mean nothing to me. Whats a solid camera I can get to start out?
Im taking a photography class this coming year as well and I think I need one that uses film, but I'm curious if film or digital is considered better at all. Does /p/ have any suggestions for a beginner?
Right now I'm using a Ricoh GR, and I love it a lot. However I'm looking at expanding into a system: I don't really shoot low-light and the 18MP of the GR has been plenty... but I feel the autismic pull of muh fool frame meme; like I'd be missing out if I got anything other than an A7whatever.
Would someone be able to give me some advice on choosing between pentax and fuji? I really like the glass for the fuji x systems. And as much as I like the K3, it's weight, plus the not-as-great range of glass is making me think twice.
Ignore the pentax memes. Get a film camera if you want to learn photography.
Get a cheap film slr. If you have relatives or a friend who has one ask to give them to you for free because chances are they are not using it anymore.
Hey friends, I'm going to buy a D7100.
I already have the following Nikon lenses: 50mm 1.8 and 55-200mm 3.5-5.6.
My question is should I buy a D7100 with the 18-105mm lens or a D7100 with a 18-55mm and 35mm 1.8g
I ask this because I think that, perhaps, with a 18-105 I would stop using my 55-200mm. If I buy a 18-55mm I would still have use for the 55-200mm.
But I think that, since I already own a 50mm 1.8, the 35mm 1.8 on a DX body wouldn't be of any use.
I know that this is a weird question and in the end it all boils up to my own personal preferences but I'm new to photography and I'm interested to know your opinions on the matter.
i got some neewer light guns and triggers, the triggers and remote are set to the same freq (switches in the same position), triggers connected to flashes through hot shoe and the remote connected to camera through hot shoe. they're not firing and i have no idea why. any ideas? cameras nikon d3300 btw
so like, is your 50 immune to crop factor? i know there are lenses like that and it would reduce the value of the second deal but i dont think that is whats going on
ive got a crop and 50 and my wishlist is a 24 or 35 and perrsonally would reccomend just getting the 35 and skipping the zoom and buying more lights
I will be scanning my developed films with a DSLR and I want to ask which is better?
macro reverse ring or extension tube
my 50 isn't immune to crop factor. Its a 70mm equivalent.
However, in my opinion, there isnt a great difference between a 70mm (50mm on DX) and a 50mm (35mm on DX), since they're all on the short tele side.
A 35mm (24mm on DX) on the other hand, is something that I really want.
Problem is that I'm faced with these options:
18-55mm + 35mm or 18-105mm.
I'm really thinking about buying the 18-55mm + 35mm and selling the 35mm to buy something else.
And in case you didn't understand, the answer is none of them.
Get a macro lense.
Or if you absolutely can't afford it, get any 50/2.8 you can find, and mount it on extension tubes.
You need a 50/2.8, and not a faster lense, because only tessar design lenses have the flat plane of focus and low distortion you need for good scans.
if anon's going to pirate it then might as well get cc 2015 for the new features
that dehaze is hot, both ways on the slider
you ever load up some film preset like, i don't know, portra 400, and then put the dehaze into the negatives a little bit? it looks nice
Pentax is great on paper. Specs and durability higher than Canon, Nikon, or Sony, for the same price or cheaper.
The reality is, the cameras are a little less polished, and frequently have little glitches and annoyances (like shutters firing for no reason, or refusing to fire for a few seconds). Also, the lens selection can be limiting, because while there are a lot of lenses available, really competitive lenses are expensive, rare, and many times, come with compromises.
Because it's great on paper, and less great in practice, /p/ loves to suggest it, because /p/ is all about how things work on paper. You don't have to actually go out and take photos when you're already "winning" by having a better camera than your "competition".
>The reality is, the cameras are a little less polished, and frequently have little glitches and annoyances (like shutters firing for no reason, or refusing to fire for a few seconds).
>Also, the lens selection can be limiting
This is the real criticism of the brand... That's entirely true, but Sigma and Tamron fill some of the gaps, but not all.
I might have just gotten screwed by luck, but I had a few of their cameras that kept giving me shit like that. Part of the reason why I just went back to Nikon since I kept all my old lenses.
I currently have a D3300, but I'm starting to run into it's limits (need faster AF, more controls, etc.). Would the D7100 be a good upgrade here? I know the sensors are about the same, but the better AF, weather sealing, better body, etc. seem like it'd be worth it. Thoughts?
These are my thoughts exactly. I've been doing more event and sports stuff recently, and I've missed so many moments because of the AF on the D3300. Plus, I may be able to get a D7100 for ~$425 off Craigslist
Would this be the best way to back up the photos I take while traveling? I'm thinking of either using it to copy everything from my main memory card to a back up memory card every night. Or possibly transfer the photos from my memory card to an iPad and post them online somewhere. I'm paranoid about by camera getting stolen or something in more questionable areas, at least I'd have most of my photos backed up than completely lose everything.
This thing appears ridiculously expensive for how shit it is.
Get a 10Ah Xiaomi power pack for $10 if you want a battery (protip, it being separate is a good idea, lithium packs typically fail after a bunch of years), and an USB card reader for $1-2.
Of course you can backup to SD cards, but actually, why not just backup to a HDD or SSD? Your laptop or (maybe rooted) Android smartphone with an USB hub on some OTG port or whatever can do it.
Currently have a d600 with 20mm 2.8D. The 20mm has been abused and I'm looking for a replacement.
Should I go with the 20mm 1.8 AF or the samyang 24mm 1.4? I mainly do landscape and astrophotography.
Alternatively thinking of saving up for a mount and telescope
Are you the same retard that started using an iPhone because "the quality was better"?
I said, very specifically, that the quality of the results you would get from an extension tube was highly dependent on the lens design, and that using a kit zoom, or even a planar-style 50mm wasn't the best idea.
Tell us what lens, post a high res scan.
Got a Ricoh KR-10 and some 35mm Fujicolor 200 film arriving tomorrow.
£25 for the camera, case, 50mm f2.0 lens and remote shutter.
£22 for 10 rolls of film.
How bad did I fuck up /p/?
Provided the camera isn't broken, probably not at all, mang.
I don't know about the f2, but my rikenon 50/1.7 is really sharp once you stop it down.
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Fujicolor C200. 36 shots per roll. I got cheap shit cos I figure my exposure skills will be terrible at first.
I've been keeping my Sony a6000 on ISO 200 for the last few days to get used to it.
C200 is a pretty reasonable film for it's price. I expose it at 100 but your milage may vary,
Ricoh has always made some great cameras, enjoy it. If this is your first foray into film, here's my one tip: don't worry about the highlights, expose for the shadows. Highlights are really quite difficult to fuck up on negative film, however you can really ruin shadows if you don't expose them properly, hence why I always shoot consumer tier film 1 stop slower than the box speed as it just makes shooting much more carefree
The opposite. 1 stop slower means you're shooting ISO 200 as if it's ISO 100, so you're effectively exposing it longer.
If you were exposing it at one stop faster, you would be shooting ISO 200 as if it were ISO 400, exposing it to light for less time.
The terminology is the opposite way you'd think it would be. Slow film = less light sensitive, has to be exposed for longer. Fast film = more light sensitive, has to be exposed to light for less time but has a reduced quality (grain).
Exposing ISO 200 film as if it were ISO 100 gives the shadow greater detail and produces an overall nicer image, especially with low quality film like C200
Sorry, I misread you. It all makes sense now. This won't be my first time shooting film but it's my first time in 20 years and my first since taking photography seriously.
I've only been using histogram for a month and found I generally under-expose so thanks for the tip.
>People still say "lense" instead of lens
Why though? is that because they don't speak English or do they know that little about photography that they can't even spell the word right?
I used my Canon 550D as a webcam by booting up the tethered live view in the Canon software EOS Utility, and then using a video stream generating program called ManyCam to take a video grab of my monitor.
Quality was great. No mic though...
I didn't think you'd post examples.
Imacon-bro was the only one who ever has.
>and he got btfo
All these people who "keep the full res on another harddrive" or some other fuccboi shit.
Try arguing with evidence next time...
so I just bought my first dslr (Nikon d5200) and the salesman tried to sell me a filter to protect the lens
I didn't buy it, but is this legit or was he just trying to just shill a bunch of accessories onto me
Largely a matter of opinion. Some feel it protects from dust, fingerprints, dirt on the front element and like using them, others feel it degrades the image quality to a noticeable degree and don't use them. Some just don't give a shit.
I'm of the latter opinion, I trust myself to clean my gear regularly.
>And in case you didn't understand, the answer is none of them.
In you post in the previous gear thread, you recommended a macro lens over an extension tube or reverse ring or close up filter. Is that what you are saying?
>Or if you absolutely can't afford it, get any 50/2.8 you can find, and mount it on extension tubes.
I wish I have a macro lens. The Tokina 100mm f2.8 macro lens is on my wish list but for $380+ it is way over my budget. The cheapest macro lens here that is being sold locally is a 55mm f2.8 nikkor AIS for $200.
Bottom line, I can't afford a macro lens. What are my options then? Is an extension tube or reverse ring really not an option?
the tamron is awesome
in fact the tamron 24-70/2.8 and 70-200/2.8 are both better than the latest 24-70/2.8 VR and 70-200/2.8 VRII from nikon. can't speak to canon's lenses but i'm pretty disappointed in nikon's latest fast zooms.
I said ANY 50/2.8 you can find.
As in cheap shit like this.
An m42-to-whatever camera you have adapter will be less than 10 bucks, as will a set of extension tubes. There you go, scanning lense for $30.
Since that is also a 50mm, why won't my 50mm nikkor, as you said, be insufficient for scanning since they are both 50mm?
Also, the lens is $16.41 and to be shipped here it costs $12.77 not to mention customs duties and taxes. That's already $30+ excluding the extension tube. I will also buy an M42 to Nikkor adapter but it's only $3 so it's quite negligible.
So that will cost me around $40.
Compare that to a setup of my 50mm f1.4 (I already have one) + $10 extension tube = $10
Correct me if I'm getting your point or not.
I asked this on a thread about astrophotography but it does on its arse so I'm repeating it here:
How much difference can the astrotracer on the k3ii make for astrophotography? I'm probably going to go full meme but the k3 is a bit cheaper than the k3ii. I'm interested in astrophotography though, so if it can make a good amount of difference I'd be tempted
I have the K-3 with the gps astrotracer thingy. Tried it but it was close to -10C and left a bit of trailing. I'm waiting for warmer weather to try it again. If it was the cold doing the trailing then it can be damn accurate in normal temp.
Can't post photo because I'm on my phone
Sent from my iPhone
Electronic shutter as in still having a metal shutter assembly that is controlled entirely electronically, not mechanically as in earlier film cameras. And it will be the first one failing on you costing more to replace it than the whole thing cost you. Same kind of shutter mechanism as in the run of the mill DSLRs.
It's not like the mirrorless Fuji "electronic shutter" where it resets the pixels electronically.
>Electronic shutter as in still having a metal shutter assembly that is controlled entirely electronically
Shit, I thought it was like the CMOS in said Fuji.
So why was it the only Canon with a 1/500th flash sync?
Why didn't Canon use the advanced shutter on subsequent models?
>Photography is a pretty expensive hobby.
Compared to what, senpai?
Golfing or any sport for that matter isn't cheap, unless you play tennis on your community court. Bicycles can easily run more than most cameras.
I will spend 2 weeks un japan on june. Is there something gear related that is significantly cheaper over there???
Second? hand stuff lenses?
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And the lenses that making having full frame worth it over a smaller lighter APS-C camera? Are those also cheap? Or do you end up with larger, heavier glass that's lower quality (meaning a lot of the times, your images actually look worse than they would have), and still 40% more expensive?
> And the lenses that making having full frame worth it over a smaller lighter APS-C camera?
That depends on the lens, but often yes.
Certainly, the specific bodies mentioned -the A7 II and D750- are better than almost all APS-C on the market right now. Good to start with.
> Are those also cheap?
No, they're also *average*.
[As cheap as possible wasn't in the question, only something that is good for a beginner.]
> Or do you end up with larger, heavier glass
Yes. A little bit. But it's still no problem for a healthy adult or even teen to carry around and use.
If you want to optimize for particularly small / light glass, you probably should go with some 1" sensor in a smartphone, point & shoot or a slightly bigger M4/3.
> that's lower quality (meaning a lot of the times, your images actually look worse than they would have)
I have no idea who told you that one, but no.
FF glass typically is as good or better as glass made for smaller sensors - even with the kit lenses you might start with.
I can pick up the optically excellent, fantastically built, great AF Fuji 18-55 for less than $300 USD. Find me a full frame lens that is its equal in all respects for the same price.
>Find me a full frame lens that is its equal in all respects for the same price.
Find me an APS-C camera that is equal in all respects to the A7 II for the same price.
Find me a Fuji lens that is equal in all respects to the fixed 18-2000mm on a P900 super zoom.
It's a stupid argument.
Yes, I picked something better than what you seem to prefer or currently use. Again, I'm explicitly not trying to minimize costs, just giving a good beginner's setup that is still easily suitable for a western middle-class income.
These cameras have good value with a great feature set, so they make for excellent beginner's cameras.
Just get a god damn lens hood. A filter is effectively another lens element, and the cheaper ones lower image quality noticeably. Only the expensive stuff degrades the image minimally, and that's not what you buy for a kit lens nyway.
I'm eyeing up a Pentax 645nii. One bundle comes with a 75mm FA/2.8. Another bundle comes with the 45-85 FA/4.5 for about $200 more. Both cameras are in similar shape. The zoom bundle has an extra 220 insert.
I can afford either. Which lens do you find more useful - the zoom or the prime? I already have a fixed focal length YashicaMat 124G, so I am leaning towards the versatility of the zoom, unless the 45-85 is actually dogshit.
Yes 90% of the time. Most gear is cheaper over there, and there's also the tax discount you get as a foreigner (8%). I've seen additional discounts of 5-10% on top of that with certain particular credit cards in the major stores.
The only problem you might have is that some camera vendors lock the language of the domestic models tough. But I am not exactly sure which brands do that and which ones do not, you'll have to research.
Lens are always at least a little cheaper, and there are plenty of options for quality used glass in major cities.
Source: Been there a lot.
posted this as a thread but anon sent me to here, thoughts on this lens for night sky photos?
it's a bit longer than i would personally use
i'm not really a night sky person but my equipment includes a D750, a 50 1.8G, and a 28-300/3.5-5.6 VR. when i've tried to do some nightsky shots i've gotten better results from the superzoom despite the fact it is far slower and has way more glass; the fact is that at 28 i can do a much longer exposure without star trailing and the 50 doesn't really have the best perspective for nightsky.
you want to look for wider primes
but what's the quality of the contents of those megapixels?
the x-pro1 looks so good you could scale it up 200% with the right tools and it would look like an a7rii
but we don't scale it up because there's no actual need
You've got 80mp worth of moire and color lossless data. Due to photosite overlap, it scales down to 50mp while looking tack sharp. Even better if you have one of the many decent m4/3 lenses.
You know, I've seen some of those hole in the wall secondhand shops in and around NYC when I visited for the first time in 2014. Anyone know if prices aren't ridiculously high at most of these places? I'm aware of the fact that the whole camera subculture isn't as prevalent here in the states but come on, the tourist tax can't be that bad.
>the x-pro1 looks so good you could scale it up 200% with the right tools and it would look like an a7rii
No, this doesn't work. The A7R II has a better sensor to begin with and you can have better glass, too.
Decent camera, but it's not even quite a match for an A7 II.
Sorry if wrong place.
I'm looking to cover some photos in polyurethane/lacquer for a project.
Has anyone ever done anything similar that can give me some advice.
I need to find boxes where i can fill with lacquer and then break open.
Not sure how much sense this makes but if anyone could help me find cheap glass boxes that wouldn't leak I would greatly appreciate it.
Flashes are in slave mode? If so put them in master happened to me the first time, also double check channels, have one in one configuration the other in other once one flashes it has te right.
I've got a few close-up filters but they have this odd milky haze to them. This one haze it the worst, all over the glass.
It feels like paper, it becomes translucent when wet, hydrogen peroxide dries quickly on it, hydrogen peroxide on a substantially cleaner filter of the same set slides around and doesn't stick but on this hazy one it does stick.
Windex sitting on it won't remove it, lens cleaning fluid whose contents I don't know won't remove it, hydrogen peroxide won't remove it.
talked about this in the last thread but I'm still super unclear
I shoot concerts. 5DM2. about to get a bunch of money.
do I sell my 5DM2 and buy a 5DM3? or an a7s? a7ii? I dunno
I can't find like any photos of concerts with an a7s. I just know that low light is literally the most important variable for me and the a7s has that AND good focus
plus, trying to do more video work. behind the scenes. music videos. stuff like that. a7s sounds good but no internal stabilizer and I can't afford an a7sii.
i want to get into photography more. I purchased a t5 over christmas after previously owning a t3i but the t3i was stolen back in october. the t5 was super chintzy. it was too light and no matter how i messed with the white balance the photos would always come out with a blueish tint.
I want to keep the with the canon bodies. what would be a good lenses to go with on a t3i body for doing automotive photography and some night photography plus some macro because i shoot inventory items at work. I will also be travelling internationally in the middle of the year, I understand this is very vague. My Ig is k5kickin and i understand the photos arent the best but these were taken with the cheap 24mm 2.4 off amazon and the t5.
I would like a few lenses suggestions ranging in the costing in total 600-1000 dollars for 2-4 lenses.
however ive been using my my coworkers d3100 while being old and beat up. i feel it takes better photos with cheaper lenses. im very torn
I've been out of the loop with gear for many years now. I want a compact, non interchangeable lens camera.
When I used to be in the know pic related was one of the best options. What are the best options now in various price ranges?
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You can get much more lenses for a D7x00 and you get a lot more features, better metering and shutter etc...
The D5500 is too limited. If that is all you need then it worth more to get a D3300.
- Sony RX100 series (for 1" compact) $310 - $950
- Sony RX1 series (for FF compact) $1200 - $1700
- Ricoh GR II (most compact APS-C) $550 new
- Fuji X100T (X100 + better firmware) $950 - $1300
- Fuji X70 (X100 without viewfinder) $700 new
- Nikon Coolpix A (underrated imo) $350 used
I know you said non-interchangable, but an a7 + RF lens is also pretty tiny (pic related). There are other options I can recommend if you get more specific.
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>but no internal stabilizer and I can't afford an a7sii
Jesus man just get a rig, it'll cost less than paying the difference between the a7s and a7smkII. It'll also make you look much more professional than shooting handheld.
The internet has more or less killed brick and mortar shopping these days, regardless of region.
You might find something in a regular thrift shop, but you'd better be able to speak pretty well (not just fluently, but actually be well spoken).
Opinions on C stands? Purchasing 2 or 3 in the next couple days and want to know what you /p/eople thought.
Video grip guys around here say not to get Mathews and go with American. Some online reviews say do not get impact.
Will be using some on locations for a sturdier stand and in studio to get lights overhead and holding backgrounds (and rando other shit)
Anyone have the Sigma 70-200mm for nikon? Interested in getting it, as I need a 70-200 but I'm weary of sigma as I have a 10-20mm from them and the aberration is fucking dreadful.
It's pretty much the worst 70-200 you can get, but it works. If you're going off first-party, the newer Tamron is a very good option, but it's still quite a bit more than the Sigma, unless prices have changed. There are lots of comparisons online.
I have a chance to buy an rx100 mk3 for $400. Do I go for it or buy a GR or save up for a fuji?
Current pocketable is the MK1
I'm interested in buying a good quality zoom in order to travel light in my trips.
I'm divided between the following:
Nikkor 24-120mm f4
Nikkor 28-300mm f3.5-5.6
Nikkor 18-300mm f3.5-5.6
What do you guys think? Do you have any other suggestions?
Guys I have a Sony A58 with a 35mm lens and the kit lens and I wanto to upgrade and Im really lost.
I was thinking about Nikon D7100 but I dont know if its really worth to update from the A58, my budget is arround 400-700 € second hand market.
I also have a Pentax MX with the 50mm 1.7 lens to street photography so I want an ''all terrain'' camera ( video, photo, etc..)
I have the 24-120 and I do like it as a single do-all lens. The VR is nice for non-moving low light subjects. However, I would not pay its "new" price. I got mine mint with box/papers/accessories for a hair over $500 shipped to me
the 28-300 VR is a good lens
though he's right that most of them are bad but the 28-300 VR is an exception. i wouldn't bother with the sigma or tamron superzooms though. the nikkor is very sharp and all of its defects (like the hilarious amount of distortion) are very easily corrected in post by lightroom.
i'd avoid the 18-300 and I don't like the 24-120/4 nearly as much as the 24-85/3.5-4.5 AF-S though maybe that's too short for you
hi mates i need gear
looking to get a studio so need lighting and backdrop thats not going to break the bank but also not going to be awful.
I guess a couple of softboxes?
how do i backdrop? i like that woven look like in attached pic as well as just a plain old white.
i guess paper is cheapest??? help i know nothing when it comes to this. you can get cheap as hell crap on ebay but how crap is it?
also big fan of
Paul C Buff Einsteins, and some paper roll backdrops. Probably 9' wide for versatility. A cheap stand will do okay so long as you don't knock it, but if you have a real studio space, you'll probably want to mount it to the wall. You'll want triggers, and the paul c buff ones are good with their equipment, but if you want the real stuff, it's pocket wizards. Get the diffusers you want.
When you get a studio, make sure it's not a 10x10 room. You'll want close to 30 feet of working space for a lot of "pro looking" results.
> need lighting
On the cheap? I'd consider getting a few YN560 III/IV plus a -TX controller.
Even if you then still might add 1-2 Alienbees, whatever you can cover with a YN560 is probably some money saved, and you have a more portable option when you need to shoot somewhere else without getting into expensive battery packs or generators.
> you can get cheap as hell crap on ebay but how crap is it?
Get it off aliexpress and it's usually cheaper.
The Chinese stands are okay. Not terribly sturdy, but you can do 2.5m high x 3m wide with those as long as you're not hanging a very heavy backdrop (some theater cloth backdrops could be too heavy) off of these.
Of course you can't attach lights to that same frame either.
paul c buff seems to be usa only?
got some triggers already but should invest in something better i feel.
got one yongnuo flash already. would you say getting another yonguo plus controller is a nice idea? then a couple of diffusers and use that as a starting point for a basic ligthing setup?
are flashes preferable to softboxes? i've worked with photographers who are all about softboxes and rarely use any flash.
ali express. thanks for reminding me (y)
I'm searcing for a small digital camera wich has to have an optical viewfinder. I don't need a videofunction or any fancy stuff. Do you guys have any recommendations? I kinda only find digital viewfinder ones wich i really can't stand.
>would you say getting another yonguo plus controller is a nice idea?
Yes, but *specifically* the YN560 III/IV/TX (or whatever is compatible), because it's a remotely configurable manual flash system.
If you have to run between flashes to adjust settings, that gets tedious very quickly and slows you down a lot.
> then a couple of diffusers and use that as a starting point for a basic ligthing setup?
Apart from that, yep. It's a pretty good starting point.
Certainly, one LED panel YN300 (or some 5500k LED bulb in) as a work light plus 1-2 big studio strobes also will be interesting, if you can afford them too.
> are flashes preferable to softboxes?
Eh...? Did you mean reflector umbrellas, perhaps?
Flashes are what you use to get light. Standing lights are not a good choice for photography.
Softboxes / reflectors / honecomb grids / fresnel lenses and stuff are light modifiers, you can use them to direct, focus and scatter light a bit.
whoops. I meant something like 'is flash preferable to a constant light source'.
but it's ok now. flash is the way forward isn't it.
I currently have a YN 568EX II. Whats cheap and compatible so that...
the TX controller and some receivers = successful system..?
I'm looking on Aliexpress now. cheapo stands for lights and a backdrop + mounts for flash + umbrella + umbrellas all seems very affordable. :3
Finding a paper backdrop seems more difficult. Where should I be looking for this?
Thanks for the help x
>whoops. I meant something like 'is flash preferable to a constant light source'.
Yes, absolutely so for photography. Strobes get light outputs that are really quite unrealistic with continuous lights.
Of course, you'll still need a continuous work light so you can see and focus more easily indoors. A 5000 to 5500k LED one is a good idea since most strobes will be around that color temperature, so you don't get an annoying mix of colored lights.
> YN568EX II
Hm, I think the matching RF system something like the YN-622 (+YN-622-TX), YN-E3-RT or YNE3-RX, but I never worked with these.
As far as I know, you can't really mix and match the TTL flashes and YN560 III/IV yet, not with one central controller anyways. (If you adjust them on two controllers I guess you can trigger them together, though).
You probably need more YN568EX II and those TTL RF devices I just mentioned.
Or you just switch to 560 III / IV / TX (+ the upcoming YN660) for the studio setup; it might be cheaper that way.
> I'm looking on Aliexpress now. cheapo stands for lights and a backdrop + mounts for flash + umbrella + umbrellas all seems very affordable. :3
Yep. I personally liked the Godox-branded diffusers best, but pretty much all the gear I got from there was quite okay.
I'm going ot go to a shop over the weekend, so I might ask if they have one when I get my first roll for it. Then have to get a battery. Then finally get to test out that 70mm 2.8 Sekor on it
Can someone explain why my canon s110 can do f/8 at the highest, but only says it can do f/5.9 max on the lens? I'm in a class where the teacher requires a camera that has a range from f/2 to f/8 and it's making me unsure.
> + compatible trigger(?)
The 560-TX (or an 560-IV) triggers the speedlights.
But if you want an external trigger for the camera, you can get such a thing, sure.
Other than that, this sounds fine for an initial setup.
>Can someone explain why my canon s110 can do f/8 at the highest, but only says it can do f/5.9 max on the lens?
I think it's f/2 maximum, not f/8 if I got the right spec sheet.
But at the 120mm telephoto end you can only get f/5.9.
You're working with a variable maximum aperture zoom lens. It's not the same maximum aperture across the zoom range.
No problem. Have fun with your setup, maybe we'll hear from each other again in some gear thread.
By the way, you'll want to do this on the 560-III when you get them:
This is the only thing I actually needed to read the manual for, everything else I just understood from the labels, on both the flashes and the commander. Not that you *shouldn't* read manuals...
I have a BMPCC, want to do some freelance DP work, wondering what gear I need.
im going to throw down soon and get a couple tripods. I have a pretty big space set aside for a faux studio, but i also like hiking so.... it's prudent to get one travelling one and one indoor model yes?
The question is : which one is worth investing more monies into?
You could get arguably reasonably professional photos with an A6000 or D7200 or A7 if you know your stuff and have good glass & good light.
[Though not with the same reliability and flexibility and productivity as with the usual professional gear of choice.]
You can't really get professional video for even less than a GH4, which ultimately is still an *amateur* film camera. Even if you mount it on some nice stabilizers and gizmos that also cost a lot, it still is an amateur camera.
depends on the level of work you are doing. At least a tripod and fluid head, maybe a shoulder rig. Helps to have some of your own lighting, but probably going to have to rent some. Wide Lens (enjoy that crop factor dude), probably couldn't hurt to get a small HD so you see what you are focusing on, extra batteries, etc. How much money do you want to dump into this?
2nd on the 28-300.
All things considered, it really is a pretty good lens. My copy produces nice enough images that I leave it on unless I need something wider/faster/longer for specific purposes.
Well I already have 6 BMPCC batteries, but I'm thinking of buying a Tilta Cage + v-mount battery, and follow focus.
I have Minolta lenses: 28, 45, 50, and 70-200mm.
I want to get a speedbooster, but don't know which one to get.
Has anyone here tried pushing 100 film to 1600? if you have, post the results, I'm tired of seeing vids of people pushing 400 film by 2 stops at the most, I've only seen one sample image and it was postage-stamp resolution
That huge fucking shutter, and the huge mirror in front of it.
Great for trigerring avalanches, not so much for making an exposure without inducing vibration.
Just got a full frame camera recently. I felt like I had a pretty good grasp of balancing my settings to get the correct exposure on my old crop sensor camera. I've been messing around with the full frame camera, it feels like it takes me more test shots until I get the exposure I want. Is this normal when switching to a new camera or am I going crazy?
Sounds like you're shooting in memeual. Try using a priority mode for general shooting like most people have been doing since the 80s.
Certain films push better than others. BW films take to pushing better than colour film does.
None of the Nikons are worth shit for video. The lack of focus peaking means you're guessing where focus will be. Great stills cameras, sure, but they lack the video features to even be considered as amateur video cameras.
Why not get a GH3 or Canon with Magic Lantern? Any camera will deliver on stills, it's the video side you should be worried about.
> I heard good things about this camera, I know it's dynamic range is killer.
Yea, it has got a good sensor.
But that's not what it has over the A6000 which has better video features. It's mostly the larger lens lineup.
> How does it compare to the D5500, though? Is it worth the extra cost?
You get the AF motor for the older lenses and a bunch of software features as compared to the D5500, so yep, usually worth it.
No, this isn't normal. Did you get an older Canon or something?
Newer Sony / Canon / Nikon FF cameras have got really good automatic modes and metering area selection. Nothing should be very surprising with either.
Plus the EVF on a Sony gives you an exact preview by default, and it's pretty much the same for Canon/Nikon's respective live view modes if you enable it.
I use a few M42 lenses with my K-3. I removed the spring from the adapter so I can screw the adapter on the lens and use it as a K-mount lens. No stuck adapter, no hassle changing lenses.
I've been offered a 24mm Nikkor AF for my 35mm 1.8G. I'm a DX user (D7100) and I've already got a 50mm.
Should I go for it?
>I removed the spring from the adapter so I can screw the adapter on the lens and use it as a K-mount lens
I tried doing that, removing the spring, attacking the adapter, and leaving it there, but then K rear caps won't stay on the lens. how do you fix that?
polite bump for this because i found out there are a few ones:
Canon A1400 Powershot
Canon G16 Powershot
Canon G1X Powershot
Are any of those cosidered at least ok? Most of them are already out of production it seems.
Thanks for the answer. While it's a very nice camera it is a bit too expensive for me. My cap is around 400€.
Also i really would like a inbuild VF.
I wanna use the camera while traveling and so it should be light/small and i fear extra attachements would go missing.
Whats the advantage of a Battery Grip instead of just changing batteries?
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gives you a place to change aperature, shutter speed and take a shot in portrait without bending your wrist.
Plus with a grip you don't have to switch any battery out, it just lasts longer.
That is national law of the place where you live.
I can tell you that in most cases, something is off limits, and be it just military or private premises.
I think in the USA you can take pictures of people in public without permission, that won't be the same in some European countries...
the rule of thumb is that if you're in a public place, you have the right to take photographs of anything you can see. you're on pretty solid ground if you're in a place of "public accommodation", too. That is, a place like a store that is privately owned but is open to the public.
I'm assuming you're not in China or something. Local laws may vary so double check that.
In glorious nipponland used gear places are sometimes hole in the wall, but sometimes they are multi-story buildings with different floors for different camera systems / makers (narrow buildings, mind you). I typically saw a 20-40% reduction in price for used gear (on japanese prices, which are usually lower), and everything I saw was from very good to like-new condition. Minor scuffs sometimes but you have to look hard to find them.
Friend is offering his Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 VC USD for $450.
I've played around with it already and it seems to be in perfect condition but a bit weary after seeing this... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZcWXLeK5Z_c
What do /p/? Should I risk it?
I'm afraid it'll go to shit as soon as I buy it. The only lens I have right now is a EF 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 II I bought for $5. So yeah this lens WOULD be a lot better, but not sure if it'll be worth it...
I have no idea. "worth" is entirely subjective. Do you only have $500 to your name? Do you plan to do any work with it? Could you use it to make at least $450? "worth" is entirely up to you.
recs for camera strap? the one the came with my camera is pretty stiff and i usually like to just wrap it around my wrist, so the stiffness is kind of annoying. i dont need some hipster bullshit that tries to emulate the fat, hippy straps that my dad has on his old olympus SLRs, and i dont need some faggy wrist strap, just a decent strap thats limber and wraps around my wrist easily
> What to look for
The minimum focusing distance and image quality that you need?
Or the size and weight that you need if you are sensitive to that, perhaps.
> i.e. why would you want a 70mm over a 50mm?
Changes field of view. If you frame the scene the same way you will be standing in different distances. Also means perspective distortion will be different.
I know that Germany has a law against publishing photos online that show's a person's face without a release/consent from that person. There's some exceptions like public figures and large gatherings. If you live in Freedomland, you should be fine.
> Someone who doesn't know what the mm measurement on his lens means
Millimeter. Says how long the light path is from the front glass of the lens to the sensor.
Explains how strongly / at what angle a lens converges or diverges light.
> field of view
Derives from that. It's kinda the angle of the image borders that you'll shoot.
> perspective distortion
if literally all you do is wrap the strap then something like the above might be your best bet.
I like shoulder straps and
http://www.amazon.com/Release-Shoulder-Altura-Photo-Olympus/dp/B00GR8KEMS hasn't given me any problems in a year of lugging around a D750 with lenses like the 2.8 70-200 on it.
Here's another shoulder strap that also has the cross strap that keeps it from rotating on you (which isn't a big deal, but can get annoying every once in a while):
I've never used one of these so I can't comment on the security of them.
What is incorrect about that?
If you do increase the absolute value of your focal length in millimeter, doesn't the light path from the front element get longer?
If you decrease it, doesn't it get shorter?
So if you're focusing on something with a 50mm lens, the lens is always 50mm from the film plane, even when you're focusing on something that's an inch away versus something that's a mile away?
It's a measurement from the optical center of the lens to the focal plane (sensor/film). That optical center can be well beyond the front element of the lens in the case of some telephoto lenses, and behind the rear element on many wide angle lenses.
Does anyone have the canon 50mm 1.8? Is it worth copping? I have full frame but I need a fast lane. I'm not sure if it is worth pulling the trigger or saving the money for a better lens, but thanks.
>Does anyone have the canon 50mm 1.8?
Many thousands of people, yes.
>Is it worth copping?
Only you can decide this. It's $100. It's not a life changing decision.
>I have full frame but I need a fast lane.
f/1.8 is sort of fast, sure. Putting the cheapest lens available on a full frame camera is sort of like getting tires for your Ferrari from tire discounters, but nobody can stop you I guess.
>I'm not sure if it is worth pulling the trigger or saving the money for a better lens, but thanks.
You're about 1/10th of the way to a lens worth owning full frame for, so if that amount of progress is real to you, then save it.
Save the extra $200 to get the 1.4. The 1.8 version has a terrible focus ring (it's the same as they use on pancakes), mehish build quality (what do you expect for $100), and just is generally inferior in most ways to the 1.4. The 1.4 has much, much better build quality and an actually usable focus ring (you'll likely be using manual focus at least from time to time when shooting in lower light, so this is a pretty important factor).
Many manufacturers sport the easily affordable nifty fifty and Canon's variation is the worst. It has the most aberrations, it is not very sharp compared to the others, and the build quality is best described by the term "plastic fantastic".
With that being said it is a solid performer and for it's price it is a solid member of most Canon owners camera bag, crop and FF alike. The second version is faster to focus and silent while the optical formula and coatings are the same as the first one.
It is still definitely worth it to have one, it is light, has decent IQ in most conditions and has decent sharpness stopped down.
>a solid member of most Canon owners camera bag, crop and FF alike
Don't forget to mention that the build quality on the first canon version is much better, and it even has a metal mount.
Which part is retarded? Feel free to put forth something useful, rather than just playing target practice with posts you disagree with as if your lack of endorsement is some official dismissal for the board.
Most people who buy a camera to say they have a camera buy the nifty fifty and never touch it. Most people who are producing actual photos look at that lens, and say "I can afford the 1.4"
It's made to be a poor man's portrait lens to go with your equally shitty feeling rebel. It's not meant to be mounted to a 5Dmk3.
Not quite. I was talking about the light path from the front element.
But this is surely a better explanation:
> It's a measurement from the optical center of the lens to the focal plane (sensor/film).
Is it? I'm pretty sure the optical center isn't usually at the focal length for most lenses.
The WP link from before formally uses nodal points, that's surely the best concept to use?
>Most people who buy a camera to say they have a camera buy the nifty fifty and never touch it.
Not remotely true.
>Most people who are producing actual photos look at that lens, and say "I can afford the 1.4"
That's no more or less common than them going "I don't want to spend the extra money on the 1.4" or someone who gets both.
>It's made to be a poor man's portrait lens to go with your equally shitty feeling rebel.
This is just beyond stupid.
>It's not meant to be mounted to a 5Dmk3.
But it isn't, can't even find references to it online and it makes no sense that it would be the focal length.
Focal length is in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focal_length#In_photography, defined with the nodal points at the front of the lens and sensor (s1 and s2), as (1/s1 + 1/s2) = 1/f
Optical center on the other hand is:
>A point so located on the axis of a lens that any ray, which in its passage through the lens passes through this point, has its incident and emergent parts parallel.
Surely doesn't need to be at the focal length?
Feel free to cite something besides your "feelings" because I work in photography, spending a lot of time in multiple studios, on sets, in concert pits, etc. Nobody I work with, talk to, or interact with has a nifty fifty.
>Most people who buy a camera to say they have a camera buy the nifty fifty and never touch it.
Flat-out nonsense, they are clearly some of the most used lenses.
> Most people who are producing actual photos look at that lens, and say "I can afford the 1.4"
But I personally *would* recommend the Sigma Art f/1.4 for Nikon and Canon both, if you can afford it and want image quality.
>Feel free to cite something besides your "feelings" because I work in photography, spending a lot of time in multiple studios, on sets, in concert pits, etc. Nobody I work with, talk to, or interact with has a nifty fifty.
>my anecdotal evidence is better than your anecdotal evidence
>I know what Canon corporation is thinking too!
No. Never did say that either.
Read the linkage in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focal_length#In_photography, it explains what you need to know about focal length in terms of nodal points.
You haven't provided any evidence at all, anecdotal or otherwise. You just said a thing. Please describe all the people you know who have the lens, and what they use it for. Because I work in the photo world, and never ever see that lens.
> When you have a zoom lens that actually extends when you're zooming out? How do explain that?
It tells you how focal length works with the nodal point on the front of the lens, and the nodal point on the sensor.
It's not, however, the distance to the optical center of various lenses.
>it explains what you need to know about focal length in terms of nodal points.
>"The front and rear nodal points have the property that a ray aimed at one of them will be refracted by the lens such that it appears to have come from the other, and with the same angle with respect to the optical axis. The nodal points therefore do for angles what the principal planes do for transverse distance."
Oh that clears it up.....
>coworker asks for advice on entry level dslr
>recommend T5 with the two kit lenses + 99$ 50mm prime lens
did i fuck up
>Because I work in the photo world
>inb4 I can't be associated with 4chan
>inb4 I'm not allowed to post ANYTHING I've ever shot professionally because of NDAs/or some other bullshit.
The T5 is just fine. They're not going to take better or worse pictures no matter what they have and contrary to what most knuckleheads here think, any modern camera will take a lifetime to grow out of (at least until the camera breaks that is).
That said, pentax is usually my goto recommendation to people getting into photography if they don't have aspirations of "going pro" (it's even good for them, but you usually can't talk them out of the no full frame upgrade path thing) because of the ruggedization plus solid general performance.
That said, Canon is a safe choice as a rec because everyone shoots Canon which makes buying used and selling much, much easier (which is the fate of many of these cameras no matter the brand).
> Picking out second sentences of a multi-sentence term explanation contained in another article than was linked.
The first sentence before that would help:
> The front and rear nodal points have the property that a ray aimed at one of them will be refracted by the lens such that it appears to have come from the other, and with the same angle with respect to the optical axis.
Only says the one with the highest resolution FF sensor. It also already lists the first flaw:
>Despite the record high pixel count and related storage and processing power, these cameras do not shoot 4K video or high frame rate 1080p video.
This and many others flaws like no IBIS make the A7R II probably the better camera still.
It's not just my idea - the experts that issue awards usually agreed with me. The A7R II was the camera that had almost all big awards piled on last year, including those that had a chance to also go to the 5DS (~second half of the year, after the release of the 5DS). Not the 5DS.
Looking for an entry level dslr. I don't have much money. Only about 250,but I want something I can do gigs with. Hopefully there will be a steal on eBay. Please help me find a good camera for the money.
Could try to find a Nikon D3100 or something.
Will you get "gigs" and will your customers be happy? No fucking clue. A gazillion people had the idea to be photographers so far and yet more do it as hobby, often with equipment better than that. A lot of pros also bring 20 times worth as much in equipment to customers.
You're in the "fun" market for unqualified jobs, where you need both hard work and luck to make money.