Last one is at its limit
Shamefully copied from legendary VINbro's threads
>I am able to run VINs and plates. For plates, the plate and state are needed. Plates do work most of the time, but VINs are more reliable.
>Please remove hyphens (dashes) from VINs/plates - unless they happen to be part of a vanity plate. This makes copying and pasting easier.
>I can only run cars in/originally in the USA/Canada. If they've been exported from the USA/Canada, a report with their time here will be available. Not yet sure about imported cars.
>Cars need to be of the 1981 model year or newer. That's when standardized VINs began. Anything older simply cannot be run for a report.
>There are never I(i), O(o), nor Q(q) in VINs. This is to avoid confusion with 1 and 0. So if you are unsure, it is always 1 or 0 (not the case for classic cars, but they cannot be run anyway).
>VINs must be 17 characters exactly. No more, no less.
>If you want the PDF-file you can open the page source (F12) and search "amazonaws", copy the whole link and put it in your browser. This should allow you to download the PDF. If its not working send me an email at [email protected] Please leave a reply in the thread saying that you've done so, as I might forget to check the mailbox from time to time
Well whoever you are, I have no doubts that I am glad to see you again. I still lurk the VIN threads because I can't leave home, now can I? I try to help a little, when I can.
I've also made my way to other threads lately. Big boy all grown up and exploring the world.
/o/ has missed you, for sure.
That thing had an accident today... what did you do?
Did you have to stop giving VIN lookups? Not enough money or time?
/o/, missing me? Nah, I still suck with cars. I'm here because I have car trouble and need to see what I can do for it. An issue I'm not really sure how to deal with.
Money nor time were issues. Perceived risk involved and timing with getting my truck and such.
You get better through research and hands on practice. The fact that you're here is already a good sign. Glad to see people actively trying to fix something instead of just paying to have it done and still not knowing what the issue was. Good on you.
What's the issue?
>Perceived risk involved and timing with getting my truck and such.
Say what now?
Well it's not like I could get it anywhere if I wanted right now, too afraid to even try. I did want to have someone give it a general check up just to see how it's doing since I don't know all what to check.
>>14180105 This would be the issue.
If my car would have made louder than usual noises, I wouldn't be stumped. But seeing as it was driving fine besides light flickering and somehow dry dipstick, I'm not even sure how to proceed. I was thinking of just dumping out all the oil and just filling it back up.
>Say what now?
Mostly paranoia on my part, but the thought that Experian might view my heavy usage as commercial use and try to fuck me (BIG time) was a thought I started having after 6+ months of checking VINs. It's probably nothing. If anything, I'd just have had my account banned most likely.
Hmm. Definitely sounds low. I mean the dipstick obviously tells you that. But also, the sloshing around of the oil might expose/cover the sensor for the light, as opposed it being always covered - thus triggering the light on and off. It can't hurt to drain and refill. Then start putting cardboard or newpaper under your car when you park. A small leak will be hard to notice without deliberately checking for it. I stupidly never checked and attempted a fix, but my last car had a slow leak, and I would just periodically check and add oil. But I took much notice of spots on the ground until the spot I park at work started showing more and more over time.
Ah, yeah I don't blame you. I was wondering that too but who knows what the technically on that is. Does it say you can't look for anyone else? I mean hell, they do let you get unlimited checks. There's no way they didn't see this being a possible thing. Still, I don't blame you.
I probably should. I didn't noticed anything where I park at home, but it's on asphalt. I can't say I checked at work either. I suppose I'll have to just go buy some oil and dump it out asap once I get home. Sun sets early these days. I would do it today if it wasn't night time.
I feel like I may have somehow put in the dipstick wrong, but I doubt that's possible.
Not so sure how I would fix a small leak though.
It'd be a grey area, I suppose. Technically, it is NOT commercial use. I was not charging money for reports, so it is NOT commerce. And I don't happen to recall anything about limitations for whom I may check. Still, the perceived/potential/rhetorical was big and subscription renewal perfectly coincided with me buying my truck, so I figured I'd give it a break. I may very well return to it. Luckily, mightyBenz took it right and has been doing a fantastic job. Kudos to him.
I feel ya. I work nights, so I go to and leave work in the dark. And it's dark when I wake up. But it seems worth to try. Also, reaffix or affix a new filter. Maybe a bad seal or you put it on slightly off. Check around/on the filter.
I believe every car I've had, the dipstick would only fully go in one way. Just make sure you push it down fully. My truck give resistance at the bottom so if I don't deliberately push it all the way in, it won't go all the way down and thus read incorrectly.
You'd have to find out where the leak is. I believe there is a dye you can add to the oil that make sit show up with a blacklight or something like that. It's how shops find seemingly nonexistent leaks.
Oh? So you finally found the truck you always wanted? I could see how you could get away with all it that way. Companies love to nitpick though when they know they're losing potential money. Well, "potential" anyways.
I work till evening, but I have like a 45 minute drive home. So it's almost dark by the time I get home.
That's what I thought, and I've pushed it down as far as I can go. I guess I'm hoping for something stupid that I somehow missed to explain all this.
I'm assuming that's expensive. The dye and a blacklight.
Yeah man. 12 months later, and I finally have it. Pic related, a recent picture I took.
"potential" is right. It's the same concept with pirating movies. They are assuming I would watch a movie anyway. If I can't watch it for free, mots of the time I simply wouldn't watch it. No money lost.
Ah damn. I only work 6 miles from home, so my commute is short.
I always hope for that lol. Typically it's not the issue though - but we can hope! I bid you best of luck.
Eh not sure. A blacklight isn't expensive, but I can't speak for the dye. My guess is no.
Nothing suspicious about this check
I knew I'd do that. I thought to myself, "Choose the picture first, so you don't forget. Nah I won't forget". Still forgot.
Actually here is a better angle for seeing the whole truck.
lel, nice going bud.
I'm glad and proud you finally got it. You held out for it like you wanted too. If only I had done the same, but I don't think the Subaru is too bad. Mixed on if I should keep it or not.
Pretty much. Most of the time people wouldn't watch it unless they were able to for free, even if it's something they do want to watch. Those movies usually make their money at the theaters anyways.
My commute use to be that short, now it's a 25 mile hour drive. Really hope that didn't kill it.
I might go test it soon enough. I hate having to drive other people's car, and now it's weird to drive an automatic.
Looks fucking fantastic from the report
It's pretty nice. Dings and scratches (can't see then in the pic) and the front bumper is dented from a deer (you can sort of see this) but all things considered, very nice. Interior is great (pic related).
The underside was good. Rust wasn't severe, I did a LOT of testing, including hammer testing. I had the bed off and treated the frame for winter.
>hope image quality is OK, trying a mobile resizer
Can't find anything on it. What model, what year and what location?
Yeah it felt good knowing all my waiting SNF saving laid off in the end. Satisfying.
It's hard to say if a vehicle is worth keeping. If the oil issue is the only major issue then I say keep it and fix it. Getting a different car is pricy and risky. Typically best to keep what you have if it's not total shit.
Yeah so much is made at box office and through contracts with streaming companies.
Damn that's awful. I mean I enjoy driving but an hour each way is a long chunk of time. That's almost ad bad as the 90 minutes when I was walking.
I know what you mean. Other than driving my landlady's car as my own for 7 months, I've overall avoided driving another's car more than just a test feel.
Yeah autos feel weird to me now. Odd that it moves on its own lol
Surprisingly enough it has a registration... still, reports for these types of vehicles aren't really of any use
Very few and inregular odometer readings, so hard to tell if it has been tampered with
thank you based mighty
It says the car has a Repossed record, Loan/Lien record, and Fleet/Rental/Lease record. What do those mean? Should I be worried at all about possibly buying this car?
Wait a second. On Craigslist, the guy says the car has 102,411 miles. But on the report, it says in June 2014, the odometer read 103,579.
What gives with this discrepancy?
Either he has typed a number wrong and its been sitting since 2014, or there is some weird shit going on.... can I see the listing?
Hm, no actual reason for the salvage...
ty based mb
looks like it's back as an option then
trying to decide between these 2:
1st is 2002, has 133k miles, 2 accidents, nice look, spoiler, no pics of interior, $1800
2nd is 2003, has 99k miles, clean title, pics show a clean interior, $2300
... oh right, we're in 2016 now. With the US-style date the date was the exact same one minus a year as the day I ran the VIN, so I suppose I was especially confused by that and therefore thought that the reason for wanting a VIN was to see if the accident had been registered or not
It wasn't bad. That was mostly previous undercoating that the PO did. The metal itself had relatively little. No thin parts to the frame nor perforations, even on the worst part by the rear shackles.
SNF? What is that? Saturday Night Football?
Well, I got it done today. Drained the oil, put new oil in. Cheap oil unfortunately. Oil on the dipstick. All is good. Sorta. I only got two quarts back out of the engine. I have to assume that means my car somehow burns either half or more of it's oil within 4000 miles. That doesn't sound too much like a good thing. I know most cars will burn oil, but this sounds a bit much.
I'm also not sure if I should even consider taking it to the Subaru mechanic now to have it looked at. Who knows what they will charge me, and I don't want to pay them to put oil in when I had already done so. Even if it was cheap oil.
I'd be fine with the drive if it wasn't for traffic. Always the worst part. But yeah, I do wish it was a bit shorter.
Nah, Saturday Night Fever.
Actually a really obvious typo I managed to not see. Fucking touch screens. I much prefer a keyboard.
If it's burning that much oil, you'd probably smell it. Do you see any blue/greyish in the exhaust gasses? It may be burning oil, but I doubt that's the main cause of the loss. I still suspect leak.
I wouldn't bring it in just yet. Test it yourself. Get this.
There are cheaper brands, but that type of product in general.
And a blacklight (UV light).
This will probably be your best best. And just take the light to the vehicle (under the hood, all around underneath, etc..) every night and look for anywhere that shows itself.
Yeah I feel ya. I love driving, but as with anyone, not so much in traffic. I don't really hit traffic even with my short route, since I start work at 10:30PM. I hit a little in the morning, but nothing major at all.
What was it that you meant to type?
I'm not too sure what burning oil smells like necessarily, but I'm sure it'd be noticeable. I haven't noticed a burning smell either way. Or maybe I'm just too use to the smell of burning things. It hasn't been blowing out any weird smoke either.
Huh, that's not actually too bad of a price. Guess I'll be cancelling that appointment. Not like I have the money now anyways. Hopefully the blacklight isn't too much either.
I did forget to mention that a few months ago I had the check engine light come on while I was driving. I had it checked out at AutoZone since they'll check them for free. It came up as a "small leak" in several locations. I wasn't sure where the small leak could have been obviously, and I recently had gotten gas and I could have just put the cap on too lightly. I disconnected the battery to see if it would eventually come back up, but it hasn't. I thought if there was an actual leak somewhere, that check engine light would come back on. Maybe not though? So I guess I can get this dye, and see what I get out of it.
Then I can take it to a mechanic and have them charge me millions of dollars for labor, and one dollar for the part. :^)
I leave right at evening, so I get to hit all the fun traffic. Good thing I'm about to work midshifts though due to school. Should ease up on the traffic.
At least the long drives are good for music.
Man this reminds me that after I got this Subaru, I went and checked out more cars just to see what I might have missed out on. One of the places I bought another car from, long story, that was under new ownership had a pretty decent looking RX8 in stock for a good price. Made me almost want to go out and get it.
I meant to type 'and'. lol
I hope you're not too used to the smell. That'd mean it's done it most if not all of the time you've owned it, and that's not a good sign. I'll assume the best here.
No smoke? Well that's good. Seems you're not burning. Not impossible, but signs point to no.
Yeah the dye is surprisingly cheap. A blacklight will vary a lot, but you just need a small, portable one. I can't imagine much more than $20.
The CEL code is useful, but without an indication of what is causing it, it can be a lot of things. But sometimes codes take a while to come back on. I had a CEL code for a vacuum leak, which I presumed was the bad gasket on my fuel tank. I could smell gas after I filled up, and for a few days after. The code went away on its own. I have since replaced the gasket, eliminating the fuel smell. No code yet. I imagine it won't come back.
My point is that if a code isn't being tripped consistently, it might clear it (or so it seems). If it hasn't come back yet, then it may be nothing. Can't say.
Haha well you might find out the part isn't that hard to replace. For now, just focus on the diagnosis.
If the shitty drive to work cannot be avoided then yes, music is a must. It's the one aspect of my short commute that I don't like. Almost no time for tunes!
Well I doubt I will get away with it at the auction, but I am going to try. I am a cheapskate. I am hoping all the small-lot dealers will shy away from the rotary engine. I will have it rebuilt if I can get the car for cheap.
Oooh...not sure why I couldn't put that in my mind.
I'm always got something to burn. :^) But no, like I said. I assume the smell of burning oil is noticeable.
Yeah, the smoke would be a lot more noticeable. I'd probably see it in my rear view mirror eventually, but there's times I've gotten out of my car and went to the back anyways.
Man, still another $30-40 out of my wallet. The things I gotta do for this car.
P0456 is what it was I believe? Maybe I'll see it come back on eventually. I should probably order my own code scanner too, but those really do cost a pretty penny. I'll have to wait on that. I'll have to see what this dye will tell me. Or not tell me.
Well if it's in the engine, I don't have anything to haul that baby out. Not even sure if getting the tools to do so will still be less expensive or not than taking it to a mechanic.
Yeah when I had my shorter trip for my last job, I usually just let my cds repeat dozens of times before switching out. Now that I have an aux, I can just put on a bunch of singles.
I hope you can get it anon. They seem pretty sweet. I'd like to see what owning a rotary engine is like.
GOD DAMN that thing has only put on 10k miles in the past 11 years.
I asked because i gave my vin to mazda and he told me what features it comes with and he left out things like AC so i wondered if he even got the list right.
Two crashes in ten days... damn
That's okay. I mean it does seem logical, but then again SNF looks absolutely nothing like and.
Yeah you'd have noticed burning oil if you were burning it. It's pretty noticeable. And if you've never once noticed your exhaust fumes being off colored (blueish grey specifically) by now, you're probably not burning much if any.
Hey now. $40 isn't that much. No one wants to spend more money on fixing a car, but if it helps you diagnose the issue, it could potentially save you a LOT of money in the end.
I have this one here that connects via bluetooth to my phone. Very affordable. And it can read a lot more than just CEL codes.
The dye is a go-to tool for mechanics looking for leaks. If there is one, it should tell you where it is.
Leaks aren't usually in the engine bay, and if they are, you don't usually need to take the whole damn engine out. Worry not. Don't assume the worst.
My first car was cassette and radio only, so radio it was. Mostly hits - but not many. This was before I really disliked pop, but I still didn't like it.
Second car had an aftermarket head unit with aux, so my phone it was, along with 103.3fm with is an independent station out of Princeton Uni. Only station I listen to now.
My truck has an aftermarket HU with bluetooth. Quite nice, not being tethered.
Sorry for shitting up your thread with talking.
Oh I forgot to mention that I don't see how that CEL code could related to your oil issue. It's an evaporation leak code meaning it'd be a vacuum or fuel leak problem, sort of like mine was. Without having a hint (such as a gas smell for me), it's hard to test without smoking the system.
I would assume there would be some sort of smoke coming from the engine as well. My stepdad's old Jeep use to burn oil too apparently, but I don't ever remember any burning smell from it.
$40 is a lot when you need to pay off a car loan. Among other things. Still, you're right. I actually see a kit that comes with everything I supposedly need for $63. It has Prime shipping too, which is good. Apparently a lot of these other dyes are for A/C or coolant systems only. The one you showed was multipurpose, but it had a $7 shipping fee.
I've heard about these things. I heard they work well, but also read they can somehow screw with the computer. Not sure if this is true or not. Maybe the person using the device just fucked up when looking at the codes.
But they have those cassette players now where they act just like aux ports. Though this was probably before they had these. Not sure when they finally figured that out.
It must be. Mine doesn't have bluetooth, but I probably wouldn't hook it up anyways. I'm not a big audiophile, but I'd still prefer a wired connection over bluetooth for the most part.
I do feel bad for highjacking these threads since they aren't yours now.
Ah, that's somewhat good news on the oil issue at least.
It depends on where it's being burnt and how much. But if your big oil issue were burning, you'd definitely notice it.
There are other dyes. I saw one for $4.88 that was oil only. Didn't notice the shipping. Just look for the basic shit and read some reviews. No need to buy expensive dye since it serves a limited purpose.
I haven't used mine heavily, but no issues on my end. Same for when I used in my buddy's X5. Computer issues would probably be very apparent and immediate. That one I bought is a well known one, recommended by a handful of anons on /o/.
Well there are those cassettes that have a 3.5mm jack at the end. Not sure if I ever used one. I think my cassette player was busted. I think I tried an FM transmitter. Mixed results.
With the current codices used for BT audio, the quality is not bad. Any loss of quality will be from either your source content or audio equipment. But wtf do I know? I've tuned my ears to 128kb/s MP3s.....
>they aren't yours now
I know ;_;
Good question... I don't know the first thing about rotary service and repairs
It wasn't $63 just for the dye, it also came with the UV light and other things. Wasn't a bad deal, but could probably still get it for cheaper if I could just find the dye cheaper and have prime.
I guess I could go ahead and order it then. Not like I'm hoping to use it all the time myself actually.
Yeah, one of those. They work decently well. The FM trasmitters are always just kind of meh. They work if you're desperate.
At least 128kbs saves a lot of space. FLAC and other loseless formats love to eat up memory. One album can take up as much as 500mb or more. Even 320kbs is less than 200mb.
Maybe one day they'll be yours again. That or you two have to share.
You've got prime? In that case, see if you can find a UV light with prime shipping and find a dye that lists as an add-on item. That way you get free shipping for both.
That's why I use 128. Our first computer had a tiny HDD and I needed to save space. So 128 it was. Funny that I have TBs of space now lol and my phone has 64gb internal with a 200gb microSD card. I don't notice enough quality loss to care at all. I am FAR from an audiophile. I can still appreciate the overall quality of the mastering and production without needing the nitty gritty.
Yeah I suspect I will start up again some day.
Ehm, parts car? Are you sure this is the right VIN?
Thank you, and yes that one is a parts car.
Oh wow, that lasted long... any idea what happened to it?
Hey Mightybenz! You helped me a few threads ago with my Tercel. Thanks again for that by the way.
Anyway, mom is looking for a new truck and she found a 2003 Excurision she likes, so we're wondering how bad it was on the VIN report.
Cant find anything. I've replaced the I with a 1 and tried some other stuff, but cant find anything. Recheck the VIN and make sure there arent any I's, O's and Q's
Helped the tennant at my parents house install an engine heater & new front brakes on one of these last week... goddamned beast of a car
Thanks again, but when I try to due that Amazonaws thing, the link only brings me here.
Also, in reference to the guy above me. That I might be an L as in "JYVLRS580422107130"
The Excursion you just looked up actually had the same issues where the guy selling it put an I instead of an L by mistake.
Thats the exact same VIN that didn't work.... and it does not work even if you replace the I with a 1 or an L.
Maybe it doesn't work for everyone... want it sent through mail?
I don't know, maybe it's getting sent to the spam folder?
Need to replace my car whose strut tower fucking collapsed.
I know the feeling...ish
I do. I thought it was going to be a waste of money, but it's been pretty helpful so far. Seeing as once you get the option of unlimited 2-day shipping, you end up trying to use it.
Come on down to the 320 side, you'll notice it soon enough! And then you'll love it and will never want to go back.
We can all hope you do.
I talked to my coworker today about my issue. He's actually really knowledgeable about car, he'd fit right in /o/. He told me I could try another test on the tailpipe. Apparently I need to have something white like paper or a paper towel right underneath it and then have someone press on the accelerator. That way I can see for sure if I'm getting any smoke out of the tailpipe or not. I guess sometimes it's not too noticeable. Otherwise, I'll try ordering some of this dye.
Is that a volvo?
>you end up trying to use it
I bet. There are plenty of items I'd then go to Amazon first because after shipping costs, it'd probably cost either less or the same, and if it's the same then I'd not only feel good about using that free shipping but I know Amazon's shipping is reliable.
I just wish Prime were cheaper, like it used to be.
That's the thing. I MAY notice it over time (though I have my doubts - and I own no modern hifi equipment so I'd he limited there) but I am okay with 128 so why bother switching? I don't want to resource my entire library. Converting my 128s to 320s won't increase quality, just file size, so I would need to start fresh with 320/FLAC/WAV/whatever. Too much time and work for potentially little or no benefit. naw meen homie?
Definitely worth trying the tailpipe. Hadn't thought of that/never heard of that. Seems like an easy, free test. No reason not to.
I get it for $50 a year due to the college student special they have. If you have an email with edu at the end, it should let you get in on the action.
It would be pretty annoying to convert every little song file you had, and it's not like you can anyways. It can only go down, it can't go back up. So going to 128 to 320 would not do anything for you really. But you could always start now! Right? Right?
Yeah, I'll have to do it tomorrow. He also gave another suggestion to look for leaks without the dye, but I don't know. Kind of getting a bit stressed about this already. I almost just feel like changing the oil every 2500 miles or something.
I seem to have bad luck with buying cars from dealerships.
I need a Vin check on this Lexus please
Cant get anything up on it. Recheck the VIN
It is located in US/Canda, right?
Plates only work for US, sorry
Just left it back at my apartment as I've come home to work for the next few days
Weird, this was supposed to be an Outback, any chance there could be mistakes with the plates? cause if that's the case I'll bug this guy for the VIN.
Nope, Ford Explorer is what I'm getting up on that plate for New Jersey NJ
Spamming only wastes the time belonging to the both of us, and it does not speed up the process. Please dont
Looks like it has a lot more miles on it than you'd think at first
Great, now I'll just need the state so I won't have to run it through all fifty of them...
Thats a bit more correct I'd say
Haven't fallen asleep just yet, although I probably should as I'm getting up at 5:45
The search for a FX4 L2 Ranger continues
Checked out one today, totally fucked, $5000+ in repairs necessary. Everything but the engine was on the way out. Which is weird since the damn thing only had 75000 miles.
Bumping until I get back
Captcha is mountains
A 2012 Taco with 5K miles going for just under $20K.
Almost seems too good to be true. Might be because it's a 2.7L regular cab with a manual trans, but I want to make sure.
Checks arent always 100% accurate I'm afraid
Sorry about that, sometimes a reply will manage to sneak by
If the car was 34 years newer then I would've gladly ran it. Read the OP
Nothing. No Q's in a VIN, and I don't get anything if I replace it with 0 or similar. Recheck the VIN
Cant get anything up on it. Recheck the VIN
I did not know that these were assembled in Japan...
Looks good from where I'm sitting
Mighty. Hey. You ran a report for me a few days ago, this one :
And I am worried because this report does not have a registration renewal event for the years 2008, 2010, 2012, and 2014
Is this reason for worry? Please respond I am going to see the car today.
Nothing dangerous about that, all it means (to the best of my knowledge) is that the car hasn't been registered on a service, gotten new papers or anything during that time period. Perhaps it has been serviced at home, not been used a lot or similar
Google tells me that Massachusetts registration renewal is biannual. So since the first MA registration was in 2005, it would be odd years from then on which is why there is none of the years you listed.
They're the same thing. It gets listed as Registration event/renewal. And that's for any registration. New tags normally are under title event. If someone who already owned it decided to switch to/from vanity plates then that perhaps might be listed under registration event, but I've never seen that so I can't say for sure.
Service, damage, etc...will get their own types of records indicating such.
Indeed, its just something I do as a service to the community
Looking through some old photos by family and relatives, always fun to see what they drove back in the day
What does this mean exactly? I bought the car today 100+ miles from whittier and theres no way it could've passed emission inspections. Does it just mean its been tested?
Either you're mistaken and it will pass inspection (though I assume you'd know) or perhaps it was brought to an indie mechanic who is authorized to do inspections and falsely passed it (perhaps knows the owner, idk).
Just guessing here.
> or perhaps brought to an indie mechanic who is authorized to do inspections and falsely passed it
I'd guess that. I picked it up 0.5 miles from mexico at an auction but it had a ton of smoke coming from the tailpipe and it smelled.
Yeah that doesn't sound like it'd pass. Until it passed in January of last year and went to total shit this year. Not impossible. A lot can happen in a year. I misread it was 2016, but that record says 2015.
Vin Lord help me out
scoping out this 2007 mazda 5 but its an auction
vin is JM1CR29L770139578 need to know what's up with this car before I pay some hard labor earned dollarino's> thanks, anon.
He's assuming/implying that by buying a used Mazdaspeed3 Sport, you'd be buying a car that was beat on by some stupid teenager before you. The whole point of the Mazdaspeed line is that it's higher performance, so those with a Need For Speed® will buy it over a regular Mazda and beat the shit out of it.
MightBenz, I would appreciate a vincheck very much! Hope the mountain is good today.
YV1LW56D7Y2663806 Volvo V70
Let it snow, let it snow...
Strap yourselves in, ladies... this is a big one
Your suspicious were right my friend
Looks good from here
Found two cars on that number
Sorry, not sure if Karl Benz remembered to put a VIN on the Benz Patent Motorwagen II or not
Everybody loves a triangle
Nothing scary at all
Looks good on paper
Aaaand its salvaged
ty Benz. Jesus fucking christ says 180k miles in 2013 but guy is selling to me saying it gas 164k miles. This is the second Grand Am I've seen /on this thread/ with a rolled back odometer. Thank you, you saved my ass twice now.
Fucking christ he shows me this, and apparently the odometer reads in KM, which does perfectly convert to 164 as advertised. Now I'm confused as fuck if the report has been considering conversions this whole time. The fuck do I do about this?
I live in the valley in California. The shitty town George Lucas was born and raised. (Modesto) This deal is in Sacramento. I really do hate this fucking area, especially when it comes to this.
See, I don't know if the people writing the odometer readings converted to miles. Or if it really was rolled back and/or was replaced with a european cluster. God damn i'm confused and conflicted as fuck because I really wanted this car and was so close to taking the deal.
Eeeeh, I really don't know... Its an american car sold new in the US that, for some reason, has its odometer in KM's. How strange indeed
Exactly. I even looked on another report saying it was manufactured in the states here in the U.S. I don't know what to think. The first Grand Am I had you look at for me seemed to be rolled back too. This is just annoying and feels impossible to purchase, especially since this is my first time purchasing a vehicle at all.
Every other weekend & holidays, although I'll probably be working a lot of extra days as there is very little coursework for my degree currently, as I'm on my last semester and soon going to start my bachelors. With the bachelor going to be focused on the skidestination I work at it means I can do most of the work from here aswell
Finally getting some proper snowfalls, although we wish the snow itself would be a bit heavier and not so fluffy
Sent it to ya
>tfw no appropriate photos to acompany my posts
mfw I called the MS3 as being beat on and it >has a salvage title
>2 owners in 6 years
Yeah. It was titled, which means it was bought/leased. And then they failed to make payments (thus, the lien). Can't say what the current mileage is, since there hasn't been a mileage record since, but I cannot imagine it's high. They only had it a month before a lien was reported. The longest they could have drug that out was until whenever the car was put for sale, so just a few months. But it was likely repossessed shortly after the lien was reported if it's already for sale.