Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread
2016 Start Edition
>Ask /o/ related questions and wait for other anons to answer it.
>Also, look through the thread for questions that can be answered by you.
what info do you need to do an engine/tranny swap into a car.
I never did anything more complex than rotor/pad swaps but I finally have a garage to work in.
My aunt has an old 83 subaru brat thats been garaged for the last 20 years. The body looks great but it has no engine.
the wiring loom is important as you will want the dash board and ignition barrel working I suppose
also there are problems like the shift linkage and throttle linkage
that is the complex part
the rest is just knowing what parts will fit in the space available
you have a subaru leone yes ?
that being the case an ea 71 or 81 may fit the bill
Is a 2005 toyota prius worth it? It's $3500, and has about 100,000 miles.
I'm still debating whether or not to buy it.
Why the fuck do people like giant screens in cars? They're ugly and it makes me NOT want to buy whatever car they shoehorned a shitty touchscreen into
Can someone tell me more about this kind of room for the e36?
Why should I buy a Mustang GT or Nissan 370Z Sport over a Hyundai R-Spec 3.8 Genesis Coupe or Scion FR-S? It's about $100 a month more for the other prior but I see no benefits over the latter.
is it normal for dual mufflers to have most of the smoke pass through one muffle over the other? I've been noticing my miata on idle to be doing that which seems odd considering I usually see cars with two mufflers on them to have smoke come out equally.
packaging. V8 too big to get the aero they wanted to achieve. It's an engineer's car, and the "soul" or whatever of a V8 is meaningless to them when the V6TT was superior for their goals.
> 1995 Lumina
I need to replace my ignition switch and cylinder. How can I tell if my car has an ignition switch with a floor console or not?
Apparently sometimes luminas in that year have them have them and sometimes they don't and I don't have the car manual to find out. I couldn't find any helpful pics on google so I'm not sure how to tell.
When in doubt, should I just get the one with or without the floor console? Should I just swallow my pride and get an auto tech to tell me?
Pic related: it's how I'm feeling right now.
L4 has: good balance (two pistons go up while two go down, hence keeping most major vibrations in check), small, simple, cheap, can be modular (cut 2 cylinders off an inline 6 and you get an inline 4), the next power stroke happens right after the last one, for a mostly constant torque/power delivery, making it relatively smooth
V6 has: about the length of L4, making FWD packaging easier, more cylinders so it can have more total displacement while keeping the individual cylinder's volume relatively low (so you don't need to balance the crap out of every piston/rod assembly), overlapping power strokes which means smoother operation
L5 is longer than L4 (and so FWD packaging, which is about 70% of the whole market, is difficult. Volvo does it though, with their D5/T5 models IIRC), doesn't have the "opposing hence neutralizing" forces the L4 has, and although it sounds godly IMO, is just not that good of an engine configuration. Add another cylinder and you've got an inline 6, which has a wonderful internal/mechanical balance and even smoother operation than L4 and L5, and matches the V6 for smoothness, in general
There's a TON of stuff I'm missing/butchering in this late-night explanation, but that's what I can blurt out at the moment, hope it helps!
Depends on if its cross piped or not and if one side is longer than the other.
The longer side will have less vapor coming from it, as the condensate will have more time to cool.
If you have actual smoke coming from your pipes you have bigger problems.
Am I a bad person for wanting this?
also is carmax a good place to buy from?
Yeah but revmatching can be tricky, especially on cars that aren't rev happy, and or those with funky pedal placement.
I can do in my 540i and my motorcycles, but can't do it in my f150
Yeah, the "no haggle" thing is bs. how about this.
anyone with experiencebuying from carmax?
Got an A4 Quattro with 235's on all sides. brand new 'Mazzini Eco605' tyres on the front, back left is 'Fulda Sport Control' and back right is 'Autogrip Grip200' tyre.
Obviously these are all shit no name tyres, and looking at the reviews it seems quite alot of people say the Autogrip tyres are an accident waiting to happen.
The car drives fine in the dry, but in the wet its a bit inconsistent. Today it was raining a bit and the car slipped enough to need countersteer quite a few times even at stupid speeds like 20mph in 4th gear. But there are other times when the car sticks to the road even full throttle on hard bends in the rain.
Is my car fucked or is it just the shit rear tyres? Is there anything else that could cause such extreme oversteer at ridiculously low speeds?
Has anyone had any experience with the Corolla AE111?
Never owned a car with a 4-AGE, but i've heard they're fun.
Should I buy a saab as my first car? How much are repair costs for them? Are they reliable? Are they easy to work on? What should I know about saabs? Here's one of the ones I want to buy https://sandiego.craigslist.org/ssd/cto/5383919076.html
Which is a more practical?
Scion tC or FRS/BRZ?
I'm getting my shitty aftermarket alarm and locking system removed tomorrow for $150. How much would it cost to just have simple remote locking installed? The guy does installations but doesn't list prices.
How much am I looking at for an absolute basic lock and unlock with a key fob button?
What is this thing for?
Truck is a 3500 dually owned by a coworker. I didn't have much time to chat with him today (busy day) but he said it's an 83 model, 4x4, auto, long bed, regular cab. It was a 6.2 diesel from the factory and it's had a crate motor dropped on2. I didn't get the mileage but its in better shape cosmetically than my current dd. I don't drive much so I'm not too worried about mpgs plus my current dd is pretty hard on fuel.
>The guy does installations but doesn't list prices.
I wouldn't do my business there. Sounds like the kind of shop where they try to squeeze as much as possible.
>How much am I looking at for an absolute basic lock and unlock with a key fob button?
Can't help there since I live in another country, but IMO $150, if talking about USD, is too much for such a job. I'd rather do it myself, tho I have extensive knowledge on electronics and stuff.
What are the best car TV shows/Youtube channels if you're interested in cars the average person can afford rather than supercars and ancient classics. Bonus if they don't talk about new cars all the time, and go back a decade or two.
I just bought a 2012 Civic Si for $16k
22k miles on it
>just as if not more reliable
>weighs the same
Keep searching senpai
i have the cash and am considering a new manual kia rio because i just need an econobox to get from point A to point B
i have considered kia for a while because they are cheap shit boxes and i wonder how many miles i can reasonably get outta one, since i baby my cars and maintain them well. i got 300000 from a tacoma before giving it to a family member in need, and it is still running fine.
i am not an enthusiast and don't care that it is front engine FWD, would get the floor model if that matters
> convince me not to do this
Special Cat here. Just wanted to report that the "floor console" just is asking where the shifting is done. Floor stick (automatic or not)? Floor console. Stick on wheel? No floor console.
Stupid repair guy had no clue WTF I was talking about. Had to talk to some salvage guys to get a straight answer. Dear god, the derpage in my town... DERP. DERP.
A coupe landbarge.
I'm going to do the valve covers on my 97 outback legacy. It leaks a ton of oil, so I thought the oil pan gasket might have gone at out as well, but apparently it doesn't come from the factory with one, and they just used some sort of sealant.
My question is, should I install an aftermarket gasket in case it's leaking from there, or should I just do the valve covers and see if it stops?
If I have to do both, I'd rather do it all at once so I don't have tear the engine bay apart twice.
Got lucky in passing my driver's exam, getting my license in a week, and I'll have to drive ~300km in mad snow.
Car has no ABS, has cheap winter tires, I'll be driving alone, I'm a shit driver, I'm scared, roads 100% wont be cleared..
>Gets a car as a gift
>Throws it under the cover because "he never found time to enjoy it."
Sounds weird. I think something would be wrong with it for him to not drive it for twenty years. It might be a good project, though.
How do you guys organize the tools you put in your car? Things like tools, booster cables, windshield waster refills etc.
Do you just throw them in the trunk where they will get knocked around or do you have some sort of cargo organizer etc. I am looking for something like that to put my stuff in.
If I take it in for servicing, and it looks okay, should I buy it? I'm not a wrench and I've never maintained my own car, but I suppose I can learn. How is aftermarket for these things?
I want to buy a truck from a dealer. I want to get it inspected before buying it. Can I negotiate a deal where they hold my car and keys until I return their vehicle or is it going to be mandatory that I sign a contract and place a deposit? Are there any other options?
Soft tool bag for tools
Hard storage box for fluids
Hard storage box for large/odd shaped dry items
where are u lpg?
>any dealer not lying through their teeth will let you take it to a third party for an inspection
>this is true for private sellers too
>never buy a car you can't inspect or get intersected at a local nunnery
I done good lpg
>what is wikipedia?
>what is google?
>why am I suddenly Dagumi?
4th gen (79-83) plus AE 85 and 86s
Don't do it get something used and reliable never buy new unless you're willing to accept the devaluation that comes with it
will having a misfitting/broken air filter cause my engine to eat moisture from the air (it's been raining for weeks) and cause oil emulsion in my dipstick tube? Could a bad intake manifold gasket do this either? I have a '96 Volvo 850 turbo; the hash mark is still oil but the tip and the rest of the dipstick were all covered in milkshake. No milkshake inside the valve cover or on the oil cap, coolant looks fine, level has been consistent, just the dipstick shaft and tip...
>inb4 that's gay
>inb4 u blew your head gasket dingus
is possibru but i doubt it the car isn't smoking more than a Volvo should. it does wub more than others stock ones that i hear, and while empeegees aren't turrible they're not great either.
>inb4 u turbo's leaking oil and u live in a wet fart doofus
this is probable, but should i be worried about a little emulsion?
Cleaned out the milkshake from the dipstick tube and put a new filter in it, gonna check the oil tomorrow and use my new obd-II reader to check the cel but i assume it's still the evap system or the running rich
Tl;Dr- is a little oil emulsion in the dipstick tube gonna wreck my brick?
besides the basic principles of how they operate?
And the parts they need?
no, the tools are the same
>inb4 what are glowplugs
>inb4 i hope you have a good 1/2" driver and socket set and a breaker bar
>inb4 u in for it now boah now git coal rolled with the young'uns.
>warranty on batteries is 10 yrs IIRC
>all the motors and a transaxle from hell
>how would you even?
Anticipate everything, start breaking earlier and brake less, start turning earlier, use 2nd or 3rd gear to move from a standstill (assuming you drive manual or an auto that let's you choose gears or has a "winter mode"), keep a fuckton of distance from everything in front of you, be gentle with your steering wheel and make the widest turn you can safely do.
Do as >>14174012 said, practice in a parking lot or empty road to see how the car reacts on snow.
There is a considerable delay between your inputs and the car's reactions on snow, get accustomed to that.
I would suggest to skip this trip and take a train/bus if you are this afraid, especially if you are alone.
Im just not well versed in the different parts I guess. Gotta learn more I suppose. I just drove a friends diesel and im in love with the power delivery and sheer torque they have.
Do you usually go for short trips?
Because if you don't let the engine warm up properly before stopping, you are going to end up with a lot of condensation, which will inevitably mix with oil and create emulsion.
That or a slightly cracked head gasket
I don't think your air filter would be a problem, you need a lot of water in the intake for it to start leaking through the piston rings into the oil pan and you would probably hydrolock before reaching that point. My guess is that all the moisture would evaporate way before reaching the engine, especially on a turbo.
Fix your filter anyway, it's not good for the turbo
about a 15-20 min drive twice a day almost every day as a DD, mostly at 55mph, and then maybe a few trips around town in between or on the weekends. it heats up pretty fast tho even for short trips so it's usually at operating temp when it's turned off.
I hear Volvos have problems with this, it is an aluminum engine (extra condensensation-y?) and the PCV system is known to gunk up and cause back pressure out the dipstick tube which would explain why it settled there; but I just cleaned the pcv system out, so while i'd like to chalk it up to this I am hesitant.
>slightly cracked head gasket
but wouldn't there be more oil emulsion or a measurable coolant loss?
>bad intake mani. gasket
wouldn't this make my car run lean tho?
I thought it was this b/c my volvo has a pcv system that draws air from before the turbo right after the air box straight to a breather box that vents from the crankcase, which is why I am leaning this way. My filter wasn't torn, but one of the pleats was kinda rough and it wasn't sitting in the box properly anymore.
>fix your filter
it's like you didn't even read my post f@m
To recap, my milkshake was thick not chunky and there was an obvious point where it ended and oil began.
Should I be worried?
I didn't feel like making a thread about it but how does /o/ feel about a Lexus IS300?
Are Twingos fun to drive? I see /o/ mentioning it in every minute.
>but wouldn't there be more oil emulsion or a measurable coolant loss?
It depends on how much it is cracked. It could be a very early stage so you have a mini leak and the emulsion is settling in the pan. Keep your coolant in check.
>wouldn't this make my car run lean tho?
It would run like shit and make some blowing noise because of the pressurised air escaping.
>I thought it was this b/c my volvo has a pcv system that draws air from before the turbo right after the air box straight to a breather box that vents from the crankcase, which is why I am leaning this way. My filter wasn't torn, but one of the pleats was kinda rough and it wasn't sitting in the box properly anymore.
Well, in that case it could be the pcv, but doesn't it have a condenser somewhere to avoid sucking up wet air? The filter should pick up most of the moisture anyway.
>Should I be worried?
Whatever it is, it seems like a relatively minor problem or a very early stage of a major problem, it could be something stupid as water leaking from the dipstick tube.
I might suggest you to drain your oil, flush with new oil and start over.
Clean that pcv inlet tube, drive on a rainy day, remove it and see if it looks wet inside.
Keep coolant in check, male sure the dipstick tube is properly sealed when the stick is in there.
Got an e30 m20 leaking a significant amount of oil recently. I checked it today after a short drive, and the dipstick read at half. Which is not good because I just did an oil change about 1.5 week ago. Car is a dd and I've done probably about 250 miles since oil change.
I notice oil on top of the intake manifold near the firewall and on the hoses underneath. Car has new breather tube, valve cover gasket, and I redid the orings on the bitch tube. I could understand the breather tube letting in oil to the inside of the intake, but why is it seem like oil is splashed all over the intake side only ?
Will be going back out there in a little while because it's fucking cold right now.
Is anyone into ECU repairing / tuning? I'm interested on it and considering to do an online course, but i don't know if it's useful or it's something you can learn from internet and PDFs
thanks for helping me troubleshoot anon
>coolant loss, check it
can do, but it's been stable since i noticed this least week
>it's not the intake mani. gasket
>could be the pcv system
>does it have a condenser?
i think the condenser is the breather box, which could very easily fill up with moisture and oil gunk, but i just cleaned and serviced the whole system to pass smog so I know its clear and working. The thing is it's supposed to vent out, not in, so it would be something like a ton of water condensed in it and it drained back into the sump.
I did soak the breather box in some dish water for a few days to avoid buying a new one for $20, that may have done it. I was pretty sure it had fully dried out, and that was in November and symptoms are just appearing now
>flush the oil
this oil is less than 2,000 miles and the last change less than 2 months ago wasn't milkshake so I am trying to avoid that until 3,000 miles. Also the dipstick shows that the sump is filled with not milkshake.
>Clean pcv crankcase hose check for moisture
it's got less than 2,000 miles on it, so it's probably not blocked. Checking for moisture in the intake pipe is a good idea, thanks
>make sure dipstick tube is properly sealed
...I did get a new dipstick from a junkyard...
Sounds like you may be losing oil from the head gasket if there's enough to pool on your intake and you already replaced the valve cover gasket.
If there's no giant pools of oil under it it's very likely to be burning it as well. I'd do a compression test since you're already working on it.
It could be leaking onto the exhaust mani. side too and just burning off; does the car smell like oil?
Also here's my bubba advice: clean a strip around the engine below where you think it's leaking and draw a chalk line around it. Run the car to operating pressure, then inspect your chalk line to see where exactly it's leaking.
>can do, but it's been stable since i noticed this least week
Well, if you are actually leaking coolant in the oil, it is still probably a small leak or you would have emulsion everywhere, keep it in check for a few weeks/months and try to check it always under the same conditions (engine temperature, car on the same flat surface, etc) so you can be more accurate.
>i think the condenser is the breather box, which could very easily fill up with moisture and oil gunk, but i just cleaned and serviced the whole system to pass smog so I know its clear and working. The thing is it's supposed to vent out, not in, so it would be something like a ton of water condensed in it and it drained back into the sump.
Water is supposed to evaporate anyway when the engine is hot, so you either really drive only with a cold engine (which is not the case) or the breather is fine.
>I did soak the breather box in some dish water for a few days to avoid buying a new one for $20, that may have done it. I was pretty sure it had fully dried out, and that was in November and symptoms are just appearing now
Again, any leftover water has probably dried out the first time you drove after the cleaning.
>...I did get a new dipstick from a junkyard...
Check if the oring is not broken and that's it.
I am afraid we are narrowing it down to a slightly cracked head gasket.
I assume you already checked every pcv hose for cracks or for an improperly mounted breather box too.
>check dipstick o-ring
it looked okay but maybe it's not touching the walls of the tube and forming a tight seal, I will have to investigate.
>I assume you checked pcv system
I checked and replaced the bad hoses when I serviced the system; the crankcase hose was completely full of gunk and brittle like pasta so i replaced it and the breather box was a little gunky so I cleaned it. The p/o had broken both the crankcase and the manifold hoses and just rerouted the vacuum to the vacuum tree so it was definitely a complete repair, and I am pretty sure of it. It's impossible to visually inspect the breather box and most of the piping however b/c it's underneath the intake manifold, but i felt the hoses and they were still all right; the breather box was still mounted correctly from what I felt as well. there's a drainback valve (I think) between the crankcase and the breather box which could also be causing this if it's faulty but it looked fine when i re-installed it.
>troubleshooting to a slightly faulty head gasket
better than a cracked head, but I am still skeptical. I'll take your advice and monitor it every week in the same spot, and i'll probably drain the oil in a month or so if it keeps happening.
ty anon, and thanks again for the troubleshoot.
Do speeding tickets affect insurance if it's a camera rather than a cop pulling you over? Never been pulled over, but cameras in the middle of nowhere have caught me going 11 to 15 kph over like 6 times.
What about parking tickets? Got 3 of those.
I was thinking of making a thread about this, but I'll try this first.
Long story short, when I was driving to home from work today my oil light would flicker when making sharp turns or depressing on the brakes. Once I got home, I waited a bit to check the dipstick. It's currently showing nothing. I don't see any noticeable leaks under my car however, and it sounded perfectly fine beforehand. However; I still put in a quart of oil. I didn't turn it on or anything. Let it sit, checked it again. The thing still comes out dry. Except for maybe a tiny tiny bit.
Is there anything I could be doing wrong? or any reason why this is happening? Should I try draining the oil and then refilling it? I've never really heard about this issue before so I'm not too sure what to do. And I don't remember my car having an oil burning problem.
I have a 07 Subaru Impreza 2.5i wagon, manual.
I've been wrenching on my 05 Subaru Liberty(Legacy) 2.5i for a few weeks now while I fix it back up. I've learned a ton about the car and I need a new project to pick up now that I finished all my other beer-making, headphone-amp producing projects.
It's all paid off and wasn't really that expensive to begin with, so I want to start playing with upgrades. Brakes, suspension, engine, tarbo, ect.
Reckon it's worth it, or should I get a rolling chassis or an old rx7 or S chassis or something?
Hey guys, so I'm going to be changing my pads soon, and I know my Integra has 4 jacking points, 1 behind each front wheel well and 1 in front of each rear wheel well. I know the tow hook is also a good place to jack the rear up but I can't find anything online about what place is safe to use for jacking up the front of the car. I have a 2nd gen so all the stuff I find for the 3rd gen doesn't really transfer over. Anybody know where I can jack my car up from the front?
So I'm making a trip up Big Bear on friday here in SoCal. For those of you that have been up there this time of year would I pretty much require chains for my tires? I drive a Nissan King Cab with 4WD if that'll be good enough to not die.
why. why would you do this. offer 3-4k tops if you like driving boxes.
>not driving a brick for that price
How far is too far to look for cars?
Where do you draw the line?
I went to the theatre tonight with my car insurance expired. And as I walked out I noticed a cop standing by my car. So I walked down the block and called a taxi. If he noticed can my car be towed for simply being there and not having insurance? If I leave it there would it be towed for being abondoned? What would be the charges?
Yes but not easily, yes, no. Unless you're in Japan the Accord engine is probably an F series of some sort, and the Civic probably has a D series, but I believe there are adapters to mate some F series engines to D series transmissions. I wouldn't bother though, modify the D series or swap to a better D motor if you're on a budget, or swap to a B series or K if you want to go fast.
That badge has been changed to which seems like the original logo of the 'Genesis'. The car from the factory comes with the basic Hyundai logo on the rear and as well as the front.
What happens when you try to drift or make maneuvers (180° turn, J turn, etc.) with a car that has traction control and ABS enabled?
I've tried to google and search for videos of this, but couldn't find anything.
Technically you're not drifting in ff, just hand brake sliding and depending on how good the tc ( if it has yaw sensors or not) is may or may not give you enough power to slide the back end around.
As for hand brake initiated slides in fr the yaw and slippage sensors would cut power there as well.
Can I drop
And how much would this cost since I'm not a wrench
I am looking for a daily driver. My weekend warrior is constantly either up on the lift or has some critical part missing due to my never being satisfied with it. The only requirements are
>Heating and a/c
>Good on gas
>I don't ever have to do any sort of maintenance other than oil and gas
>cheap as shit
Is a 90s corolla the only option?
>ITT: i cannot read or use the internet plz halp
>maintenance other than oil and gas
there are other good cheap reliable vehicles
>I'm not gonna read the sticky, must fill dumb questions thread.
>how much cost?
>what is a phone?
>what is the internet?
>what are auto shop estimates?
you can do anything you want to cars (especially if your'e smart enough to google the dimensions of an ae86 engine bay and a shitty rebuilt MR2 engine) but if you're asking a Taiwanese dungeon porn board how much it costs for a shop to do it i bet you can't afford it.
>quota a shit going for all time high score
I have plans of buying an EcoBoost Mustang. It in someway produces more power than the V6 and surprisingly gives more MPGs. Will I regret buying it later on? I have 60K in my hands now. Or should I get the GT instead? Is the GT daily drivable?
>only put a quart in
maybe you should refill it and monitor what's happening to the engine while it's running.
let it idle and come to temp while watching the engine bay and tailpipe for leaking oil or smoke.
>Is there anything I could be doing wrong? or any reason why this is happening?
YES you don't check your oil regularly and you probably took it to qwik-lube and they only put two quarts in.
The frame, the control arms, anything hard
>blowing 60k like this
shit just get a bin and burn it you'll feel better
Well at least someone answer.
I already got it figured out and all. I didn't take it to qwik-lube last time, I was the one who changed it last time. I've already basically did another oil change. Only 2 quarts came out. So engine must be either burning the oil slowly, or it's got a small leak somewhere. Doubt it's burning as I haven't smelt or seen anything from the tailpipe before.
Thanks for replying anyways.
So today I slid sideways into a curb cause it was wet and I have zero traction on any of my tires. I hit kinda hard so when I got home my rear axle was pushed to the right maybe 2 1/2 inches and there is a faint knocking when I brake. Do you guys think anything critical has happened?
Do the 2.3, buy a tuner for it, I recommend cobb, and you'll push 380 pound feet of torque. Out of a fucking 4 cyl. Then when you want fuel economy, turn it off and you're getting 30 mpg easy.
ok. The knocking sound is coming from the side that was pushed, not the side that made contact. It's also a body over frame construction so i'm also not sure if I bent the frame or an arm if you got any idea. I'm going to have it looked over in the morning but this has begun to worry me. Here is a picture I took when I got back
Just watched some wigger music video against my will, but there was this car in it.
Anyone know what it is? Thought it was a celica supra at first but I'm not sure.
I have a '91 Corolla which has been standing in really cold weather for close to a week. Today is -26c and despite having the block heater on for hours, it didn't start, it had no power. We got it started by getting another battery from another car (we did not jump start it), but now the vents inside won't blow any air.
What the fuck happened? Is this a symptom of the weather/unuse for a week or did something get permanently fucked?
You should only do it if you are driving on snow, a higher gear means less torque to the wheels, which means less wheelspin and higher chance of actually moving the car.
You are not going to rape the clutch as much as you would do on a dry road, if you are on snow your tires will immediately spin anyway so there is barely any clutch wear.
You said you have cheap winter tires, so that may help you a bit.
Try to start in 1st, if you just spin and don't move, try with 2nd and so on. If by 3rd gear you didn't move yet, then you probably dug a hole with your tires and need to shovel a bit of snow away, or use snow chains.
posted before but has anyone heard of oil starvation issues during start up on these subaru engines with the oil filter on the top of the engine instead of hidden between the exhaust?
How many things are going to go wrong with this if I pull the trigger?
You are most likely to regret on buying a 4cyl Mustang and the words "Should've bought the V8" will echo around in your head for a long time.
Also, the GT gives good MPG ratings which I think is good for daily driving.
>see pic related
Is there anywhere I can go to borrow tools and change my own oil/rotate my tires? I'd like a place where I can do general maintenance on my car at my own time. I live in a condo and usually go to my buddy's house and borrow his garage and tools but he's getting busy with marriage and work bullshit all the time and I don't want to be a bother.
looking to buy a car in early 2017. hoping /o/ would be able to put me in the right direction.
>budget $5k CAD
>performance doesn't matter
>car must be short, need to parallel park on daily basis
>gas consumption as low as possible
>roomy as fuck. I am a huge person. think hulk hogan without muscles.
>4 or 5 door
>going to lug various things like musical gear, ski gear and a big ass dog
right now I'm torn between the toyota yaris and honda fit but I don't know enough about cars to know for sure that those are my only two options
thanks in advance
In what shape do I give a machine shop my head?
>Do I need to remove the valve retainers and valves or do they take care of that?
>The engine is a Mazda head, are there specific tools on removing valve retainers that can be store bought and aren't shit?
>How much should I be expecting to spend on a general cleaning and resurface (wasn't over heated). How much would a valve seat machining cost on top of that?
anti drain back valves negate that shit.
mazda/ford/Nissan's have an anti-flood mode, floor the gas pedal and it'll just crank. Personally I like doing that on (my own) oil changes just so I don't have that second or two of no oil pressure.
Dunno if scion/subie/toyo's do the same thing, I'd only really worry about it during oil changes anyway.
you'd be better off going to harbor freight, buying a Johnson bar, sockets, a basic wrench set, jack and stands.
Most condo's don't let you work on your own shit on their grounds though, you'd have to find somewhere to wrench.
Sorry for the lame questions, but how much would all that you listed run me at harbor freight? What essential tools should I pick up for my car?
I'm really not into cars but my buddy showed me how to change my oil and perform general maintenance and I'd like to keep doing it myself and not take my car into a jiffy lube or dealership.
Johnson bar is like 15 bucks, socket set for 20. wrenches are cheap, so like 10-15
jack and stands, I'm not sure how much those'll run you though. Check online, their website is easy as hell to use
also get a pair of oil filter pliers, getting that shit off without tools is a nightmare
Bought a used car from a dealership just over a month ago. Today i found out it needs new rear lower con troll arm bushings and new rear tires. At least. Probably more. I am not a mechanic and can do almost no DIY car work. Cant afford repairs as i am now making car payments. How fucked am i and what can i do to become at least somewhat less fucked. ?
Thats what i can see under the car. its the rear lower controol arm according to google. Car floats back and forth and has allot of inner tire ware in the tire connected to that. rear driver
Anyone got the F&F "i like the tuna" scene with the /o/ edit?
>Less salty today, but i'm still a salty asshole
>it's burning oil slowly
>no smoke or smell from the tailpipe
it's not burning it then.
open up your charge pipes and see if there's any oil in them, and inspect your turbo for burnt oil and any play in the turbo shaft.
Cold weather = dead battery get a float charger.
Dunno about the blower fan check your fuses
some auto parts stores rent tools for free.
auto parts stores "let" you work on your vehicle in their lot (blind eye, but my o'reilys lets people do stuff literally 10 feet out the door)
inexpensive tool sets are everywhere go to a harbor freight and drop $20 on a nice driver and some sockets
>didn't read the sticky
>roomy yet economical
>like a yaris or a fit
>wants a subcompact
>what do for a resurface?
I just got some out of a junkyard with the bolts and rocker arms still attached and they did them. labor for taking that shit off is nothing and becomes part of the labor hour they round up to anyway. where labor cost really comes in is when you give them an old dirty rusty head they they need to clean for 2 hours. My cost for two ranger heads from a Mazda b4000 was $140 for two resurfacings and two vacuum tests. They weren't too grody but they did have some surface rust and oil so the price definitely included cleaning
don't remove the valves
>valve seat matching
ok maybe remove valves you'll save a few bucks
call your engine shop for a quote they don't bite.
>my engine shop is called wallys
>only shop worth anything in 200 miles
>still charges less or equal to big city shops
>oldest guy there is hella burgers
>coolest burger job evar
Had some Johnson's film installed on Monday and just noticed these bubbles
Is this something I should have them look at? Everything else they did looks nearly perfect
I DD a VW jetta, 2008, automatic. was wondering if i drive it 95% of the time on the "sports" mode, which basically just keeps revs around 2.2-3k for more power access, is there anything negative associated with doing this other than the lower mpg?
>necessarily means more heat
>heat equals wear
i usually only flip to sport mode on my autotragic when i wanna hoon or i'm doing some highway driving, it's totally pointless in city driving, puts extra strain on your engine and drivetrain in stop-and-go traffic, and as you said you get less empeegees.
I'm tired of buying $1000 shitboxes that have an expensive breakdown after a year that makes it cheaper to just buy another shitbox than repair it.
Would I be better off saving up a few thousand bucks and waiting to find something with 150k miles that has been babied, or taking a $10k or thereabouts loan for something with much lower miles?
Financial situation is I'm working part-time and living with my parents. I also have good credit.
I'm currently driving 15k+ miles per year, which is only going to go up when I get on full-time.
pretty much most anything above 3-5k and older than 10 years should be in good condition. but you have to be diligent, attentive to details when looking the car over and be looking for something not sporty or rare.
Even if you have good credit a bank may not loan you squat if you're only part time, and many require to have to worked full time at the same job for 3 years or more.
I just changed my oil and got a full tune up from a specialist. I drive a 2006 Dodge Magnum SXT. But I noticed when I left the shop that when idle, my car jerks a bit. Is my car warming up to the fresh tune up? Or is this a problem? I had my spark plugs changed and all. New oil and all.
It's like the engine is causing the car to jerk forward. I would be sitting at a light with my foot on the brake and I've even applied different pressures and the car still jerks. I wouldn't call it hesitation but the car doesn't idle smoothly since the tune up. I'm guessing it has to do with the engine or an electrical problem because my car shut off on me on the way home.
Salty? What are you talking about anon? [spoiler]Are you trying to tell me I'm getting too much sodium, doc?[/spoiler][spoiler]:^)[/spoiler]
>say it could be burning
>then say it's probably not because neither of those things are happening
But it's okay anon, I got it taken care of. Thanks for trying though, since no one else replied.
Also I don't a turbo. Wish I did though.
Is there any reason I shouldn't/couldn't swap the drivetrain from a foxbody Mustang into one of these?
>drive on interstate for several hundred miles
>drive on bumpy dirt roads and up steep hills
>drive on muddy water-logged grass
>haul a bookshelf I found on the side of the road
What car do I need?
I bought a truck for 10,200 6 months ago
I hate it. I haven't beaten on it or anything and nothing is newly broken or anything, about how much would I get of I tried to trade it in for something else
My 2000 Nissan Altima is coming up on the 150k miles mark. I've had the car for 3 or 4 years and got it with110k miles on it. Since then I've kept up with oil changes, tires and brakes. This past year I've replaced the radiator and water pump. What sort of things should be done by or at 150k miles? Not sure of maintenance before I received it.
new oxygen sensor, clean throttle body and iacv, either get the injectors ultrasonically cleaned or use a pea rich fuel additive, see if any hoses need replacing.
depending how it sounds and feels over bumps various suspension bushes, strut top mounts etc.
strictly speaking the airbag needs replacing too
Considering a 2006 G6 GT sedan with 60,000 miles. Honestly concerned that a lot of it has been city since it's currently owned by the estate of an old white woman. The car is very clean, and I couldn't find a problem with it on the test drive. Ask is a little above 9,000.
Any thing that I should specifically look for when I look at it again before making a decision? Looking at it as a daily driver.
The only G6 worth getting is a GXP 6spd.
As far as the GT is concerned they're honestly not that fast, don't handle well and doesn't get good fuel economy. You could get a Manual Focus or Cobalt and be just as quick, get much better fuel economy and have a car that can turn.
Yeah, I'm well aware that it doesn't handle well. But I don't need it to honestly. I just need a reliable car to get me from point A to point B that looks decent (which rules out the standard Toyota / Honda). Plus, I've always liked Pontiacs. My mom had a Firebird when I was growing up, and I absolutely loved that car.
Thanks. Found a few things near me too.
Hello /o/. Not much of a car guy but I am becoming an /out/ guy. Figured I'd ask you guys what would be the best vehicle for general off roading and light hauling (camping gear and bringing back a deer or two). I'd assume some sort of light duty truck but again, not really a car guy. I know how to maintain my car and that is about it.
Thanks for the help.
oil leaking and burning in cylinder =/= leaky turbo compressing or burning oil; i could have been clearer. it's a great way to lose oil quickly without noticing but moot point b/c
>subaru with no turbo
>got it taken care of
>not telling us how or what was wrong
u fukn cocktease
>no make model year
>must be pic related
>not just calling a few dealerships and/or getting a general idea off kbb
is my engine heater broken?
>Subaru Legacy GX (pic related)
>plugged it into the electricity post, which i know has power
>the heater inside the car is running so i know the connections work
>let it sit for 2 hours, tried turning the key, car is obviously very cold and won't start
any tips? i don't know what's wrong.
let me clarify, i know that there's power in the post, and i know that the heater inside of the coupé is working (it's on the passanger seat) but i know that the car is supposed to have a heater that heats the actual engine. and that heater does not seem to work, since the car was cold and did not want to start. so i was wondering if there's something in the operation i'm missing, or if there's any way for me to fix it / check if the engine heater is broken.
Two stupid questions:
I want to change the knob on my gearstick. How do I know wich ones work? It screws on.
How hard is it to add a tachometer to a classic car that doesn't include one?
For shift nobs different manufactures use a few different threads and pitches so you just have to find one specifically for your brand but it's not really hard to.
For the tach in a classic car its often just wiring one or two wires to the ignition coil , again just find one for the rpm range of your car. Mounting it isn't clear cut just find how you want it mounted and do that.
>engine block heater broken how check?
check it with a multimeter, the specs should be online. Unplug it and testing the plug would be easiest way but it also might have an inline fuse, a related fuse in the box if it's OE, or a different way to test it so research online.
>car is obviously cold
but was it? did you put your hand on the block or did you just look at the gauge? have you ruled out other common problems like the battery draining in cold weather?
>missing something in operation
I think you just plug them in, but i don't live in the Arctic.
>any way to fix
you could probably pull one out of a junkyard for cheap, but test to make sure it works first and troubleshoot so you are sure the heater is the problem
I have winter tires on my FWD daily driver. I'm keeping the all seasons from the front in the trunk along with rock salt and stuff to keep weight on the rear tires instead of putting winter tires on the back.
Am I an idiot?
>putting extra weight on the rear axle for a fwd for extra braking power
sounds good to me mang.
>storing rock salt in your car
double bag it. triple bag it.
>rock salt= rust god in crystal form
>throwing sand bags in a truck bed for better traction and braking
>a tire shop manager that said best tires in back for a fwd for better braking but i think he was full of shit and didn't want to rotate my tires
anyone can confirm?
Hey /o/ just wanting to make sure I've done this right, troubleshooting a 2004 lincoln town car.
>batterylight intermitently coming on
>not seeing corrosion on the terminals
>some asshole in the design process of this vehicle decided that removing the voltage meter on the dash was a good idea
>never been able to catch the damn thing and check the voltage when it's happening because of traffic or forgot the fucking voltmeter.
Mostly think it's the alternator though. Gonna just cruise around all day till I catch it, anyone think it might be something else?
About tires in the rear, I was told the same, so the ass doesn't hang out and cause a spin. I think it sounds stupid, cuz if you know how to drive well, you just turn it into a drift and off you go.
Considering a 2004-8 f150 or a Tundra in the same timespan, trying to hunt down a manual but it's gotta be 4wd (work for the forest service and my duty station is up a shitty one way dirt road). Any thoughts on which would be better?
Also, anyone have any experience with stuff like a softtopper or besttop and other canvas type canopys for the bed of a truck? Thoughts and opinions? Thought I just save myself the trouble and just bit the bullet and get an hard canopy?
I just tried to go check my oil but I can't get the dipstick out. It comes out maybe 3 inches and then just gets stuck in place. This is on a cold engine, maybe I'll let it run for a bit and see if that helps unless you guys know what's going on.
Tried again and it wouldn't budge regardless of how hard I pulled it.
Another question though, what is that part circled in red? The cable leads off of it and attaches next to my throttle cable but I realized that it had come out of place today (the cable) and was just hanging loose.
My cousin did it at my age. 12k loan with a cosigner while working part-time. At the same bank, none the less. I don't think it will be an issue, but I'm also a city employee, and we have a pretty good credit union, so I can check with both.
Will this http://www.ebay.es/itm/Citroen-BX-series-1-tachometer-rev-coun-new-electric-see-description-/251987992286?hash=item3aaba79ede:g:uDMAAOSwv0tVdaov work in my BX TGE?
Hopefully some knowledgeable an/o/n is around.
Here's the thing.
I can afford one of the following:
A) Cold Air Intake. Since there is no already-made kit fr my car (the woes of owning a car not sold in the US of A), it'll be a universal kit, most likely.
B) Front stress bar + front strut bar. Made by a local shop, their quality is quite god as it seems. Made for my particular car.
Car is a FWD econobox, weights 950kg, with a 109hp engine. I love it's small turning radio, but on turns the body roll is quite noticeable.
Of course, more power would be great too, since it's, as you can guess, N/A, and no turbo kits exist (except for a custom, one of a kind one), and I couldn't afford it anyways.
It's my DD, I live on my country's second largest city, and all it sees is city usage.
What should I get?
Being a college student living on his own sucks for a car enthusiast. Also, I'm kinda sure that, if I decide to keep saving up, I'll end up spending the money on school materials/alcohol.
Seriously considering a Toyota Matrix/Pontiac Vibe.
KBB and Consumer Reports make it sound great.
Some an/o/n told it was crap and didn't elaborate.
What is wrong with this car?
>one person's opinion on the internet is enough to make you consider otherwise
>they didn't even say why
I probably wouldn't even really look much into it. Keep in mind, there's always gonna be someone with a bad experience with a certain car. Though I doubt that anon really drove either.
I don't know much about them either, but I doubt there's a lot wrong with them if a lot of people have had a good experience with them. Though that doesn't mean you won't have a bad experience with one. Especially since you have to find a used one. Who knows how the last owner took care of it.
Just watched the first 2 episodes of Initial D Fourth Stage, and it was fucking terrible. Music, sound, art style, dialogue, plot, all bad.
Does it get good any time soon? If not this stage, what about fourth/fifth?
Don't listen to this guy >>14202585
Snap oversteer is when you take a corner too hard and your steering knuckle snaps, sending you into a spin. Lift-off oversteer is when you hit a bump and catch mad air then spin out when you land.
It depends on what kind of signal the dashboard picks up, since the car in question is pretty old tech it will probably pick up the signal from the coil too.
You just have to make sure the tach you buy uses the same signal as the stock dashboard, assuming there is an unused connector in there.
Good, 3rd door is nice if you get a gen 3
Just be aware the s series engines use oil
Nissan March (aka Micra, in Canada) 2012.
Here´s the engine.
In red, the tube where air comes in towards the airbox. Green would be the whole airbox assembly, and orange would be the approximate location/shape of the filter itself. There is a K&N replacement part for the OEM airbox, but I figured that, if I was to change stuff, better got all the way.
das what i'm saying, plus i'd rather have more grip for steering
check rockauto, ipd, and fcp groton, but you may have to call a stealership.
Tundra, but the Ford isn't terrible
a time to get cuck'd
matched from the stealership: a lot
from a junkyard: cheap
labor shouldn't be more than an hour
Oil disappearing at about 1qt/1k miles and oil analysis doesn't show fuel or coolant in the oil.
So where's the oil gone off to?
Coolant in oil or coolant loss would mean headgasket, so its not that. Fuel in oil would mean valveseal or piston rings are bad right? So not that. And there's no drip or leak under the car.
If i'm trying to get an engine started, and i leave all the peripherals like the lights etc disconnected, will i have problems? what's happening is that my battery is draining very fast and i'm wondering if that's the reason. i'm not sure it's charging all the way either. my 12v tester says it should be fine but voltmeter test says its reading 9v?
i don't like electrics