I want to buy a bike but know next to nothing about them. I'll be commuting at least 6 miles everyday for the next year. I've seen mountain bikes are cheaper but I don't really know the difference between them and the other types of bikes. How much should I be spending? I have about 300 dollars as a budget.
>>1030458 The best thing you can buy with 300 is a used bike from a bike shop that sells them. If that's not an option and you had to buy something new and cheap, and assuming you're of relatively average height, your best option will be a hybrid or cheap mountain bike without a suspension fork. Spend $150-200 on a cheap hybrid then take it to a bike shop and pay them to check it over and make sure everything is set up properly (should cost you about $50)
So I have a couple questions that I don't know if anyone would have the answers to here but here goes. 1. The easier of the 2 is how would I get the gear ratio for my axles in front and back. I plan on going from 35" to 46" tires and I hear a lot that I am most likely going to have to change the gear ratio. I have Dana 60 front and rear axles. 2. This one is a doozy.
TL;DR : 4 years after buying truck trying to register it in different state than bought. How much is it gonna cost and how am I gonna do it?
So I am an Armyfag and so, before... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
When I bought the truck I bought it from the parents of the guy selling it. I don't have a POA from him to them for them to sell it to me. I bought it with a cashier's check and the lien got put in to Navy Federal. BUT because the POA was never obtained I couldn't get a new title with navy federal being the lien holder. So I have the original title, with his credit agency being the lien holder.
I paid 1000 for some dudes my shady ass godfather vetted to install all the parts I bought for my truck using deployment money. I had 1500$ left and 3 days... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I unplug everything and shits good. About 25 miles outside of base death wobbles are back and it's so bad we almost run into a big rig. We pull of the side of the highway and a state trooper gives us escort to a parking lot about 2 miles down the road. I have a tow truck pick us up and drive us to base. Got to the auto skills center (basically a mechanic shop you can work on your own car for cheap, they have every tool you can think of, hydraulic lifts, etc) and brother found that they installed everything wrong (my brother was better at mechanical stuff than me until I... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hi /n/ I came across this bike at a flea market for about $70. I bought it as an impulse buy. as near as I can tell it is a late 50's early 60's western flyer/murray. I am unable to find the serial/model number on it as some else re-painted it years ago. I am probably going to rebuild/restore/customize it, but only if its worthless. If its worth something to an actual collector I will probably sell it off and let them take care of it properly.
Now on to the questions, I am only 75% sure its a western flyer and I am looking for any info anyone might have on properly... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1029222 You don't have to work very hard to imagine this, just look at pictures of American cities from the turn of the last century and imagine the buildings with more modern facades and taller average heights (especially in the urban core). Chicago, New York, San Fransisco, Philadelphia, Detroit, etc. were all big, bustling places well before the advent of sprawl.
Any current pilots have any experience with ATP or know anyone who's trained through ATP?
Currently I'm working on my PPL through a small local flight school and really like it. I made up my mind a few years ago that I want to go Airline for a career. So it's something I'm working on. I keep seeing and reading about ATP Flight School's success rate and how they guarnetee a CFI job and it's easy to get hired on with a Regional with them. But, I've also heard it's a "for money" school. I'm just trying to gather more... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hi, So, I got a DUI and suprisingly that really fucked my job up in IT (working for government). I'm sick of office work, and I want to get into pest control (my uncle is one of the best service techs in a top 3 pest control company).
I cant get hired their do to a DUI (lots of work at night, driving vehicles), but I realized I can now get my CDL license in California.
Where do I start, and how do I get it for minimal cost?
>Last year, buy a Walmart bike, pic related >"Eh fuck it better than nothing." >One year later >The brake cables are fucked, the little caps at the end came off and now I stab myself when I move my hand down near them. >Speaking of brakes, the rear brakes are completely fucked to Hell, with no chance of ever using theme without replacing the damn pads and brake cables entirely. >Rear deraileur constantly shifts up and down gears, and goes slack when I put load on the peddles, leading to very dangerous situations when the fucker goes slack during a ride on the road >The seat is extremely fucking uncomfortable and hard. I am too lazy to buy a new one. >The handlebar covers are worn away too >The chainwheel is very wobbly; I'm pretty sure its going to break anytime now. This was a mistake. Realistically, how much money would it cost to make this fucking thing worth riding? Or am I better off throwing it in the dumpster and getting a bike that isn't garbage?
>>1028723 Alright. Well how much would a decent used bike be? I'm very poor. I'm a retard working part time at Walmart as a cart pusher while working my way through college. I pretty much just bike to work. I could just run but biking is funner.
Would installing new brake pads and cables be difficult? The only thing I've done bike-mechanic wise is just install fucking lights and replace the tire which went flat a few weeks ago.
>>1028670 An entry level mountain bike is always cheaper than a road bike, that's why a lot of child have them even if they didn't mountain bike. A lot of people will lose their job if mountain bike are only used to mountain bike and road bike to race.
Hey, friends. I just bought my first road bike a few weeks ago and got her all tuned up and running like new. She's got butterfly bars on her now but im wondering: would it be easy to swap between that and drop down bars? Does that include swapping out anything too costly? Or is it simply disconnecting and reconnecting brake/derailleur cables?
Does anyone know exactly how handlebar measurements are worked out? E.g. If one bar has 20mm rise and 5° upsweep, and another has 20mm rise and 3° upsweep, are the contact points at the same height? What about backsweep? Does a bar with more backsweep effectively have shorter reach? Maybe this is a stupid question but I can't find it explicitly stated anywhere
http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-gear/how-to-choose-the-best-mtb-handlebars-a-buyers-guide/ The current theme of wide ass risers with a short stem is because modern top tubes are getting longer. Backsweep will shorten reach as will a shorter stem. Idk about rise ratios cause i use flat bars. IMHO the stock bars on new mtbs are way too wide for average size riders but its like seats- very personal preference.
>>1028478 The grip areas will be at the same height if the rise number is the same, the one with greater back sweep will put the grips further backwards and they'll be slightly more angled. Back sweep isn't quite the same as negative reach, you could in theory have negative reach with the grip area still straight (or at the same angle as the back sweep) but bars aren't generally made that way (there are some with forward reach, in which case they'll place the grips further forward than "straight"... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1028511 Another thing I forgot to mention, you also have up sweep to take into account. If it's an identical amount then you can ignore it, however if it differs then that will cause some issues as I have no idea where rise is measured to (more up sweep means the end of the bars will be even higher in comparison to the start of the grip area).
I've been hanging around here for a while but I've never really gotten around to posting until now. I'm going to be travelling to Japan somewhat soon and was wondering if there are resources that can get me into understanding this sort of thing more. Technical stuff (how each one works), specialist websites for Railfans, beginners guides, all appreciated, and anything else you think is relevant. Sorry if I sound like an idiot, I'm just not exactly sure how to get into this.
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