Alright everybody, noob post and I probably fucked up in a big way here but I'm ready to learn and fix my mistakes.
Was just out doing some recreational riding, and my pant leg unraveled and caught in my chain. I was going pretty fast and apparently the force was enough to snap a piece on my front derailleur (pic related). This is a SunTour Sport piece from what I believe is a 1975 Fuji Special Tourer. I bought it several months ago at a thrift shop for 20 bucks as my first bike since childhood, and I love riding it as a recreational bike. I'd like to either repair the part (which I suspect will not be possible) or replace it. As a newbie I have the following questions:
1) Do I need to get the same part as the original for the bike to work correctly, or can I sub in a suitable replacement?
2) If I need an original, then how can I certifiably identify the correct part? (or I'd just like to know out of curiosity anyway, I know nothing of bike part identification)
3) If push comes to shove, is a piece like this capable of being repaired? No idea what exactly you'd need to do but I know some people who might have the tools needed to repair metal parts.
I know I messed up but I try to focus on the positive, and I want to use this mistake as a chance to learn a valuable lesson about bike repair (on top of the valuable lesson about wearing the right stuff when you ride). Any help is greatly appreciated.
>>914288 Could be any number of things, but the first thing I'd do is check your chainring very carefully for a bent or damaged tooth (solution that case is to bend/file it back to where it needs to be).
>>914290 Your FD is dead, not fixable without spending a whole lot more than the value of the part.
Good news is that front derailers are really simple devices and finding a replacement will be simple, especially since the specs of yours were the default, normal values for FDs for many decades: 28.6 seatpost clamp, shaped for a double crankset (as opposed to a triple), cable enters from the bottom.
However, the Suntour Spirt is an odd duck in one respect, because it's 'high normal' and defaults to putting the derailer over the largest chainring unlike 99.99% of all other derailers which default to the smallest ring - this means that if you buy essentially anything but another Spirt you'll have to pull your shift lever in the opposite direction (but functioning will be identical). If it matters to you, you can get NOS Spirt derailers on Ebay for very little money.
Otherwise your best bet is to visit a bike coop or a shop that has been in business for decades, they'll have a bin full of old unwanted FDs that are compatible and should cost you something in the $0-5 range.
Thanks for all the help. Was particularly confused reading for myself the part about the 'high-first' trait of the Spirt.
I know a bike shop in town that's been there for as long as I've been here, so I'll give them a ring tomorrow and see if they have any such shifters. I think I'll make a little statue out of my broken one, in part because of the reminder as a milestone for me in cycling, and also because the etched lettering on it reminds me of old golf clubs which in turn makes me think back to my dad. Thanks again for everything, you were a big help.
>>914299 High-normal does not need special shifters. The spring simply works in the opposite direction, so pulling on the cable does the opposite action as normal. Friction shifters just pull cable, that's all they do.
>>914280 I've got what seems like a weird ongoing problem. Unless I take only clear water with me in my bottles, some of it over time drips down the seat-tube and the down-tube, onto the cable guide on the bottom bracket, and eventually gums up my shifting. Currently I stuff a bunch of chapstick (which is wax, mainly) into the grooves of the cable guide, which allows the cables to move freely, but makes any liquids just drip off instead of sticking in the grooves, and it seems to work OK, but does anyone have a better solution?
The lids on my bottles are new. They still leak a few drops here and there.
Hi every one! First time here! I'm a motorcycle rider that used to ride bicycle long time ago and still have a not so good bike in the garage. Because administrative problems, I have to leave my license for a month, so I'll need to go to work with my bicycle.
But I'll have to do many kilometers (euroguy here), and I was wondering if it was possible to adapter an electric system to a non electric bike, and if it was worth it, or I'd be fucked trying to do this.
>>914374 >administrative problems Translation: >I got busted driving drunk and my license is suspended
There are at least a dozen reasons why you don't convert a regular bike to electric, and by the way your 'administrative reasons' for not having a license probably means you shouldn't be operating ANY motor vehicle, not even a shitty electric bike. PEDAL your bike and try to de-tox, k?
>>914389 The thing you need to do is ask the guy selling why he's selling, and make sure he looks you in the eye when he answers, and pay close attention to his microexpressions and body language for him lying to you. They might be shitty wheels and he's trying to just get rid of them to whatever sucker will buy them. Also examine them very carefully for wear or cracks or being seriously out of true, all of which could be signs they're failing.
>>914427 I don't drink dude, it's because my shitty country is stupid and I have a delay for changing my license's category ... and some slow electric bike doesn't need a licence But if it's a bad idea yes I can pedal, but I was looking for a faster way to travel
>>914442 Rim's dead baby, rim's dead. >>914457 Hardly an issue, people ride on the rain all day without having to dismantle their whole drivetrains every time. Just wipe down, clean, lube, wipe down again.
Im looking at picking up a Dirt Jump bike. Specifically GT Bump 26.
Now upon doing my research before purchasing, i noticed the geometry is near identical.
Would it be worth it to upgrade the Trek, or just pick up the GT Bump 26.
Assume labor for all the upgrades are free for the sake of this thread.
Both bikes of QR axles. Both aluminum.
Here are the specs comparing both
Pretty much, should i upgrade the Trek to an entry level "DJ" bike, or just buy the GT and be done with it. I'm open to saving a hundred or so dollars upgrading the Trek if that will be the only difference
>>914318 Buy better bottles. I had a cheap bottle once which leaked everywhere too. Its annoying and stupid, not just because your bike gets dirty but also you and your hands and everything. And its not like a good bottle costs much money.
Looking to convert an old early '00s 26" mtb into a single speed. I'm also gonna put some slicks on it because I'll ride it in the city. My question is should I put skinny tires or fat tires on it? Will it look goofy with skinny slick 26s?
i am currently riding with a Shimano 105 5800 11spd group, 53-39 Crank, and i'd like to change the 39 Chainring for at least a 42 one. Would that work with the front derailleur? are there any limitations?
My Shimano 105 ST-5703 left shifter broke. It wouldn't downshift and when I looked inside, I noticed some parts had snapped, including the housing where the wire end fits into.
I've never had to replace shifters before and I've never had to index gears, etc. Is there a good guide for doing this somewhere? Also, does anyone have any suggestions for buying either a replacement left shifter or a new shifter set? Also, when looking at new cables, are there any considerations to be made if I plan to stick with the Shimano 105 shifters?
I don't have much money and I'm having to do this on a budget.
>>914552 Does your frame have downtube shifter bosses? You could put on a downtube shifter for the front shifting. Friction front shifting is great for a triple. Any left DT shifter would work. Pair with any left brake lever or even keep using your broken STI. Could get this done at a co-op for $5-$20
>>914552 it's easier than fuck dude, worry not. All you have to do is make the cable tense at the lowest tension setting on the shifter, then use the barrel adjuster to fine tune where each index point lands
>>914559 Or if you don't have a barrel adjuster for the front, just play with the cable tension until you get it right
It's that simple. All the adjustment is in cable tension, your limit screws on your derailleur are probably still set up correctly. "indexing" sounds complicated but you never actually have to touch the shifter.
Is this a good bike helmet? http://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-Thrasher-Adult-Bicycle-Helmet/dp/B00012M5MS
I'm looking for something cheap and looking around it seems to be okay considering the price. I'm also looking for a cheap U-lock so I don't get my shit stolen, but I'm relatively new to biking in general so maybe that's not enough. I'd appreciate any advice/responses.
hello /n/, this is admittedly my first visit to this particular side of 4chan, but if i know anything about 4chan, it's that it is filled with unofficial experts respective to the individual boards. anyway, i'm not entirely sure if that made sense or not but essentially i was paying homage to all of you because i trust that the majority of you know what you are talking about when it comes 'transportation,' e.g. bicycles, perhaps? let's get right down to it, shall we... i've moved back into my folk's place after recently breaking up with mygirlfriend. well, the time has come, already, for me to get back on my feet and move out of my parent's house because, hey, it just has. rewinding just a tad: while my ex and i were still together, i got a dui and had my license suspended for a year. i had disparingly been reduced down to public transportation (and the rare occasion that she'd let me use her car, but that's irrelevant), in addition to the fact that i now found myself needing a bike very, very badly. well, it just so happened that my ex's mother and i ended up being pretty close and she had taken it upon herself to snipe this beauty (pic related) from a local garage sale for a measely $25 and gift it to me. FAST-FORWARD: as i mentioned earlier, the time has come for me to start saving up the means to moving out and getting my own place, but i am going to need all the financial gains i can get; selling this bike for a nice little profit - which is going to require me to know a little something-something before i can do so. i couldn't find much on the internet about this here bike, which is why i've turned to you all in hopes that you could help me out a little by giving me any and all (hopefully) helpful and interesting history about the bike!
>tl;dr saving up enough money to move out of parent's house so i'm selling this bike (pic related) gifted to me by my ex's mother, but i need to know a little somethin-somethin about it, first, to do so.
So, /n/, I had a dipshit moment while removing old brake cables from '90s road bike and lost the spring from the caliper's barrel adjuster. Searches keep bringing up in-line adjusters instead of spring-loaded caliper adjusters. Wat do?
Longshot, but does anyone know if there's a way to get the pins out of a Shimano rear derailer parallelogram? I have one of pic related that I'd like to disassemble for refinishing, don't see anyway to do so.
you guys think this is a crack in the frame? Bought the bike about a month ago but I didn't see this (might be new, might be old, I honestly have no idea) It's not on the other side of the frame, but it's very symmetrical and kinda goes in a circle. If not a crack, what is it?
>>915210 >>915219 For future reference, if you think you've found a crack on your frame -ad you don't want to damage the paint investigating- cover it in a brightly colored finger nail polish go for a ride before it dries.
If it's a crack in the frame, after the ride you'll see the polish has seeped into the crack. If it's more superficial, the polish will dry uniformly over top of it.
>>914280 anyone here know a lot of DH bikes? I have someone willing to sell me a 2009 Kona Stinky, cautious as to it might be stolen or overpriced. Dont know how much it is to service the suspension as well.
>>915423 Well it's a Kona so obviously it wasn't a bad bike when he bought it 6 years ago/stole it.
You're just going to have to see it in person to know if it was beat to shit or ridden a couple of weeks in the summer of 2009. If it was ridden often and hard for those 6 years, then yes, you will probably have to replace some things.
5'11'' - 31'' inseam 185 pounds Looking for a commuter bike. to and from work 5 days a week and then commuting to school. say 100km a week. 600$ top budget. Usedvictoria. ca I see a Cannondale for 550. here's link: http://www.usedvictoria. com/classified-ad/Cannondale-R700-Roadbike_26188871
Check to see where your tubes are failing. If they're pinch flats, learn how to install tires correctly.
If it's punctures, invest in heavier "touring" style tires plus tire liners.
I've had two flats all last year: one was a pinch flat after I got a brand new set of tires on my racer, and the other was a 2 inch nail that punctured far enough to buttfuck the rear rim of my commuter. Fucking mexiqueers.
>>915532 Inflate your tires with a pump that has a gauge at least every two weeks. I find if you maintain proper tire pressure you can practically eliminate flats. Make sure you tires are not worn out or frayed on the inside. Avoid the biggest pot holes and bumps.
>>914280 Pedestrian here, why the hell would anyone bike in the city? Bikes make perfect sense in towns with empty streets and sidewalks, but why would you bike in the city, where you're a hazard to pedestrians and a liability to drivers?
Also, what should I look for when buying a decent cheap bike? Chances are I'll be in chicago next year, so I'm basically expecting the thing to get stolen at some point.
>>915612 >where you're a hazard to pedestrians and a liability to drivers? not if you're attentive and ride predictably. which is not to say that the onus of Not Getting Hit by A Car is on the bike rider, only that there are ways to ride which minimize your risk to other traffic users. But at the end of the day, the guy behind the machine that can maime humans easily bears the brunt of responsibility when navigating traffic
Wouldn't buy it without touching it first. There is a 1% chance it's worth it and a 99% chance it's been thrashed to pieces by a series of grommy little shits who have done exactly 0 maintenance before selling it to the next muppet. Unless it's god damn immaculate member of the 1% then $1000 is way way way too much.
...and Marz cost no more or less to service than any other brand. Especially considering I'm guessing it has 888's or DropOffs on it? In which case they are a piece of piss to work on.
WTF is up with Specialized? It seems like at basically every price point they're using 1 or more tiers of drivetrain down from other manufacturers (ie sora where others have tiagra, tiagra where others have 105, etc)
Flat repair kit for sure(tube or two, a quality set of tire levers, patch kit and a tire boot, handpump over co2 for commuting), a multi-tool with a chainbreaker and spoke key and a few extra chainlinks. Stuff a granola bar in the bag if you have extra space for energy emergencies.
FENDERS, for wet weather fenders are arguably more important than the rain jacket. Raining coming down from above is clean, water kicked up by your tires is filthy as fuck.
>Flat repair kit for sure(tube or two, a quality set of tire levers, patch kit and a tire boot, handpump over co2 for commuting)
Yes tire lever, patch kit, and spare tube. But two tubes is overkill for commuting.
>a multi-tool with a chainbreaker
I've never liked multitools with chainbreakers; they're always either a shit chainbreaker, overly bulky, or sacrifice critical tools to make space for the chainbreaker. A smaller multitool and a standalone chainbreaker has served me well. My travel kit has a Part Tool CT-5 and a Crank Brothers m10.
They said commuting, not touring. I can't imagine my wheels suddenly going far enough out of true on my commute that I'd rather fix it on the side of the road rather than back in my garage.
>and a few extra chainlinks.
See above: not touring. If you break a link, you can make it home a link short and being careful about not cross-chaining small-small (or even close to it).
To >>915808 I'd also strongly recommend a rear rack and a pannier bag; way nicer to ride with than a backpack.
I have a sigma and cygolite headlights, both work well. Light and Motion is also a very good brand you might want to look into.
My first light was 200 lumens because /n/ told me it was enough for the well lit areas that I commute through. While this is true, in my opinion it's better to spring for a 400-600 lumen option, and use it at the lower settings. This way, you still crank out 200 lumen but have much longer battery life, as well as having the option to use the higher settings for darker areas you stumble upon.
My sigma is 200 lumen max, and lasts about 2 hours at that setting. My Cygolite is 600 lumen max, and the lowest non-blinking setting is about 200 lumen and lasts just under 5 hours. Worth spending an extra 30 bucks and getting a brighter light just for the extended battery life, I think.
I have two rear lights, a piece of shit blackburn I bought from merlin for 6 bucks and a cycliq fly6 that I use for commuting. The cycliq has a built in video camera with a lot of cool functions.
>>915847 >WTF is up with Specialized? It seems like at basically every price point they're using 1 or more tiers of drivetrain down from other manufacturers (ie sora where others have tiagra, tiagra where others have 105, etc) Dealers gotta pay for them pretty shops somehow, bro.
I understand why Specialized sells the way they do, and I entirely agree that it's their right to do so. But nowadays I get most of my stuff online, and that totally rules out anything from Specialized. I don't own anything from them and don't see that I ever will.
Fair points on the chain breaker and the links, but I've needed a spoke key once while commuting and didn't have it. fucked my wheel and it was badly enough out of true that it scraped the brakes once a rotation. Now my kit has a spoke key and it's there to stay.
I also carry two tubes because on three occasions I've given away a tube to a stranded cyclist with a flat. After that situation I still want one tube for myself, just in case.
What do you look for when buying a second hand bike? I want a compact crank. What weight is decent for a road bike? Apart from it being large enough for me, what else is there? I have a mountain bike that is heavy and not well suited to road use.
>>915994 the line between large enough and too large is pretty fine, so go get a bike fit.
compact cranks weren't popularized until ca. 2009; it might be hard to get your hands on a used bike with a compact crank for as cheap as you want. if you go mid 80's-mid 90's steel road, you'll find some great values, but none will have compact cranks.
>>915811 It's bomber forks and Roco coil rear shock. I've had bombers before and they were okay, only forks I've had that broke front wheel axles although... Gunna see the bike tomorrow if it's the latter where, he just rode it for 2009-2010 summer
>>916066 it's kind of weird when that happens. I have three bikes, all with Pasela TG tires. One has 25s, another has 28s, and the last has 32s. The one with 25s gets a rear puncture every other time I take it out. The other two never get flats.
Is there something about running at higher pressures that makes it easier for shit on the road to penetrate tires?
I have a 2014 Trek 820 that came with a Tourney TX35.
Most of my riding has been about 2 miles total back and forth from work. Ride 5 days a week mostly on road but there is a short cut that is off-road (packed sand hill with a couple of muddy low spots) I take when there is a lot of traffic on the road. Occasionally I'll take it on a horse trail or do more biking going to different hangers on base for work.
I'm not entirely sure how I did it but I mostly broke off 2 teeth off of both jockey wheels. The derailleur still works but it is noisy. Only thing I can think of is something got caught in my chain. I was going to just replace it with another identical derailleur but I was wondering about upgrading it.
A new TX35 is less than $10. Like most places online the shipping is as much as the cost of the part. I did see the Altus and it seems to have good reviews. Rivendell seems to thick highly of it but then again they are a place trying to sell it.
Does anyone here have any experience with the Altus? If it isn't good for my application what would you suggest?
>>916121 Also the TX35 has always refused to shift in below freezing weather until I've been riding for at least 10-15mins. This is the first bike I've owned since I was a little kid. Are all rear derailleurs like this or is it just bottom of the barrel ones?
>>916126 All of them are, it's because your cables are frozen and maybe you should try using full cable housing, but it don't matter if ice is inside the dérailleur, I usually carry a pocket knife to pick the ice out
That isn't intended to be an insulting question but I need an honest answer to help. Most lightweight wheels are at least marketed as "racing" wheels. They tend to be designed for riders on light weight "racing" frames who weigh tops 160lbs.
Lets say 10% margin of error. If you weigh more than that...well eventually the wheel will start to go out of true and you'll probably break a spoke or worse have a catastrophic wheel failure.
Now there probably is some fat ass who is riding a chinese ebay carbon frame on chinese ebay carbon wheels with chinese ebay carbon spokes and is perfectly fine but that isn't a risk I'd take...and mind you I crew on the CH-53E. A platform that has put 5 in the ground since I started crewing.
>>916155 if you really think racing wheels are only designed to accommodate 160 lbs riders, you're delusional. this has to do more with the quality of the build than the quality of the rim, and if the build can't handle at least 50 lbs more than that, it's a piece of shit wheel that you shouldn't touch. working on a helicopter gives your opinion literally no extra weight.
a wheel that could fail catastrophically for a 180 lbs rider is a piece of shit wheel that would fail catastrophically for anyone.
>>916158 you're a climber but you're trying to put on weight? I don't understand
>>916190 I don't think you understand what I was getting at.
Racing wheels are designed to deal with what is actually more abuse that people think happen to them. Problem is they aren't designed as a life long item. That is not to say every racing wheel will fail catastrophically but they will wear out faster than say a Velocity Atlas.
A heavy rider WILL wear out ANY wheel of ANY type faster. When people operate worn equipment stupid shit happens, unintended shit, stuff that the engineers may have never expected in their life times. That's why I mentioned catastrophic failure. Although remote, even with a heavy rider, it is a distinct possibility and one that people have posted about here.
Somewhere in and around 160lbs is the design point for racing wheels as that is the heavy end of most racers. When was the last time you saw a linebacker at a race?
I brought up what I do because what I do is risky. I've only been doing it 4 years and I know people that my platform has killed and crippled both flying and doing ground maintenance. He was talking about inexpensive wheels. I was trying to convey that I personally thought going too cheap was a risk that even I wouldn't take.
I'm no great writer but I though I was making my point clear. Apologies good sir.
>>916144 campy/fulcrum wheels from wiggle or chain reaction. I like the Campy Mega G3 medium-profile wheels (Shamal, Eurus, Zonda, Scirocco) because the spoke pattern is neato and they're bomb-proof, even for fatsos. They are seriously stiff, though, so if your ride is already harsh, they might not be good. Shamal have nice ceramic bearings, but the bearings on the other wheels are good, too.
If your ride is already harsh or you do a lot of climbing, the Campy Neutrons are a good alternative to the G3 wheels. They're a little softer and better for climbing.
Of course that's just general purpose wheels. Aero is another game entirely.
You should never buy soft wheels to improve ride quality.
Lack of wheel stiffness leads to laterally flexy wheels, vertical compliance is virtually unaffected. Lateral flex leads to rubbing, wheels coming out of true, and a mushy feel under power. They will do almost nothing to improve ride quality. Wheels should be as stiff as you need them, and if you're not sure, stiffer than you need them.
>>916209 I agree, but the G3 wheels are well reputed for being insanely stiff, to the point where some people have grumped about it. The Neutrons are just very stiff, but not soft by any means. Nobody would recommend them as climbing wheels if they were mushy.
>>916206 you're being very reasonable here and I appreciate that you're trying to give good, impartial advice
with that said, you're absolutely right that heavier riders wear out everything faster. but what is the alternative? even a touring wheel that lasts 40 years for a light rider might only last 10 years for a heavier rider. but what is the heavier rider to do? he still has a need for wheels.
I'm also not sure 160 lbs is truly on the heavier end of most racers. obviously if you go up to cat 1 or 2 most riders there have very little excess fat and can thus get that low, but most people buying race wheels are really just freds looking to take 500g off their wheels so they don't have to lose any weight. an average 5'11" guy can be well over 160 lbs without even thinking he's fat. a wheelbuilder for team sky might choose his parts knowing that none of the riders are going to be above that weight, but manufacturers selling to the general public are building their shit for a much wider range of people.
as I said before, what's the alternative? is he just to not buy race wheels? race wheels aren't inherently more fragile than non-race wheels, I'd argue that a quality set of zipps or mavics or whatever is almost certainly going to be safer than whatever comes on pretty much any road bike you buy off a shop floor.
fortunately he seems to be a fairly light rider, so he most likely won't be pushing any wheels to their limits, but what if he wasn't? if he was 220 lbs would you tell him to just get a set of 29er wheels and put 1.75" hybrid tires on there? sure that would probably be stronger than 700c racing wheels with 25c slicks, but if that was his only option he'd probably just not upgrade his wheels at all.
what I'm trying to say here is that there's always a risk of equipment failure, and all you can do is make sure you're buying well-maintained, authentic, quality products from a vendor that you trust to have properly built and examined the wheel.
>>916226 Magnus Bäckstedt was around 200lb when he won Paris-Roubaix, and there have been other heavy bastards who have done okay in the pro peleton.
I'm around 220 these days and my "racing" wheels (Campy Eurus) are much better than my supposedly stout custom wheels built around DT RR585 rims. I hope I can get my fat ass back down under 200 soon, though, because I love climbing and being heavy makes climbing suck.
>>914375 >Advocating the use of other non-SI units not recommended for use This website is intended for an international audience, hence internationally standardised units should be used exclusively as far as is possible.
>>914389 >No space between the number and the unit symbol Please re-read the SI Brochure.
I bought an OnGuard Bulldog Mini U-lock a few months back, and things have been great up until now. The thing's invincible.
But there's one problem: They keys are made of gallium and silly putty.
I put it in yesterday and applied the least amount of torque possible, and the thing twisted and snapped off inside the lock. It took a team of police two hours to cut through, so it was obviously sturdy as fuck, but the keys are hot garbage.
Are there any similarly invincible locks that don't have shitfuck keys and don't cost $100? The keys are the important thing, I think the crackheads around here would have trouble with a U-lock made of plastic.
Pic isn't even me, this is just such a common thing with them.
can anyone direct me to a good resource for actually learning all the ins and outs of my bicycle? I'd like to get to know my bike better and be able to do regular maintenance on it myself without getting ripped the fuck off at bike shops to do a job that'd probably take me like 15 minutes to do myself.
But in all seriousness, if you're just starting to get into maintenance, changing tire/tube, changing chain, changing cassette, front/rear derailleur adjustment are all things that any cyclist should know how to do.
>>916408 it's all pretty much what i'm trying to learn. decided to buy a trainer to use my bike at home during the winter but the wheel i have on it is noisy as fuck. realized that to learn how to put an entire spare rear wheel together with a trainer tire on it would be a fuck lot less expensive than getting it done from a shop. wouldn't hurt to just learn everything else while i'm figuring it out.
>>916410 couldn't hurt to have one specific for the trainer so i can save my other tire for outdoor activity. it's also situated in a really small room, so the noise literally bounces off the walls everywhere and vibrates the floor. shit drives me nuts and i can't imagine who else can hear it.
despite being the best overall resource, the navigation on SB fucking sucks. google for the type of repair or info you want to learn and include the word sheldonbrown in the search; this is the best way to find the right page(s) there.
Fuck /n/, the seller backed out last minute on the bike i was looking at. Now I'm unsure of what to get. I have a 500$ budget. 600$ if absolutely necessary. But id like to save that 100 for accessories like a helmet and lights.
Im 5'11" 170 pounds, local used website usedvictoria. com and pinkbike. com.
Is there any reason to leave enough cable so the bars hit the top tube like Sheldy says? To be honest, I'd rather the bars yank on the cables than hit the top tube in a crash, and just enough cable for 90 degrees still seems like more than enough because you still don't turn the bars that much.
I never learned to ride a bicycle, which bike is best for beginners? My friend tried to get me to learn on a mountain bike but it was huge and really intimidating, would a bmx be easier? I'm not sure what kind of other bikes there are.
I've been building up this frame and when I got it originally it had this shallow cut on the underside of the seat stays. Probably some nigger trying to cut off a lock some time before. My question is does this greatly compromise the frame? Can it be repaired?
>>916552 Get something that is low enough for you to comfortably place both feet on the ground and scoot along with. Practice keeping your feet off of the ground for progressively longer periods of time, then start pedalling. Congratulations: now you can ride a bike and own a bike that is too small for you. When you reach this point, come buy a bike that actually fits you properly.
My mom wants to bike but she's getting old and she doesn't want to bike outside so she asked me to look for a trainer so she can ride at home (especially since it's really cold in NY right now). Can anyone recommend a good trainer? I've seen a few around the $100 range on Amazon but I'm iffy.
>>916697 It's possible, it's not hard, it might be a bit expensive(new bars, new brakes, new brake cables, installation costs if you get an LBS to do it all) if it's what you want on your bike, it really doesn't matter if it's a bad idea or not.
>>916697 Previous anon is right. Also be aware that because of the design of road bike frames, you'll need to stick to bars more like the ones pictured here - if you took a pair of bars off a typical beach cruiser they'd be too wide and stretch too far back towards the rider.
It's possible but you need to be aware that after a certain point the bars will interfere with your pedal stroke. Go ahead and take a ride on your bike, being aware of where each knee is relative to your bars at the very top of that leg's stroke. If the bars are too close to that, it will feel very very unnatural.
Hey there /o/. I just got a new mountain bike, and I really love it, but I need to swap the new wheels for my old ones so that I can commute on it and the tire won't rub on my fender. It's the first bike i've owned with disc brakes - is the wheel swap any more complicated than on one with V brakes? Thanks in advance.
>>916884 Fuck man, I think you damaged the brake to get the brakes bent like that. The brakes are probably gone too, and you might have damaged the wheel as well. You will probably have to buy a new bike. Sorry anon.
>>916884 both brake arms have a spring to pull them away from the wheel - first verify that the spring on the right arm is still working/engaged, if it is, you can readjust the centering by little screws on each brake arm, they change the spring tension.
>>916990 That's normal if you're riding out of the saddle a lot.
>>914280 I've gone through 3 shifter cables. I can't get the front derailleur to shift into the big ring, sram rival. I set the limit to the big ring, upshift & tighten cable, downshift then set the lower limit according to all videos out there. My problem is that it will not shift after setting everything exactly the same. It will shift once, then it gets progressively weaker until the point that it doesnt shift into the big ring. The cable tension is also as high as it can go, feels like I would break the lever if it was higher. I do not want to bring it to the shop, as they will charge $20 for it. What am I doing wrong? My bike has a pulley thing on the seat tube .
>>916679 Alright I'll be sure to look into that. >>916685 oh boy, someone remembers me. Nah she has an old 21-speed that I helped fix up during the summer and she wants to use that. The reason she's opposed to a static exercise bike is because of the space (the spacing/how she organizes things is weird where she lives). But I'll look into a recumbent, thanks!
AFAIK it isn't cost-effective to repair a cracked aluminum frame. It can be done, but the risk of weakening the frame, as well as the same crack reappearing is too high. Sorry bruh, time for a new frameset?
>>917311 Expect to pay $500+ for any sort of serious frame repair that isn't just some guy spot welding a crack hoping it will hold, or welding a piece of rebar to your top tube when you're in inner Mongolia with a bike that's been snapped in half.
>>917081 Is the cable, pulley or derailleur slipping? Also, FDs want to "overshift" on the upshift some. You have to be a little loose on the limiter screws to account for this, or you'll put quite a lot of force ont he wire. I suspect it's this that's causing something to slip somewhere.
>>917372 Note also that wire tension should never be 'as high as it could be'. That's a clear sign that your limiter screws are too tight. There should be no greater force acting on the wire than the spring in the derailleur. Not at any time during shifting.
>>917384 no. most basic bike fits cost around 100-150. depends upon a range of things, but often the more tech the fitter uses, the more he can ask for a fit. also, if he's got certification from Serotta, Retuul, BG, GURU, FIST, etc., he can charge more. i'd make sure he's got some sort of certification, although there are good and great fitters who don't (read: me *winks* ). also, it's good if the fitter gives you your stack and reach coordinates at the end and maybe some strategies for off-the-bike conditioning to address on-bike posture challenges.
look up steve hogg; he's got a good rundown of what a good fit should look like
>>917323 It's on the smallest cog in the rear. >>917372 pulley is smooth, I tighten the cable clamp pretty snug. I did everything according to instructional videos >>917373 My upper limit? Videos tell me to make it as tight as it can go, then backing off 1/8th of a turn. I use needle nose pliers to pull it tight as finger tight didn't work for me.
Could cable housing be an issue, with too much of a bend? Everything is brand new so no problems with wear and tear. My pulley is set to enter from NDS, then routes directly to FD. Not sure if it should go in from DS, then going to NDS, cables intersecting each other when anchored to FD. The few times I got it to shift into the big ring, downshifting is horribly scary with a loud bang.
Since vintage 10 speed and modern track frames both have 120mm rear spacing, can you put a modern track hub in a 10 speed frame and vice versa? Or is there some catch like axle diameter or dishing or something?
120mm is probably a track bike if I'm not mistaken
Putting a 130mm hub in a steel 126mm dropout is fine IMHO. A million people have done it. Steel flexes just fine. You can hand stretch the dropouts to get it in there
I know people running 135mm hubs in 130mm aluminum dropouts... Which is questionable but even then not 100% suicidal if you have long enough chain stays
Maybe hesitate if it's a super light weight classic race frame buy otherwise go for it and just check to make sure the wheel is aligned correctly. Slight chance one side will give more and put the wheel out of alignment
Depends. I tried without one and had chain drops. Some people have no problem. A narrow wide race face chain cured it. A regular fd can be used if you're cheap. Or if it's a triple crank and can do a bash guard sandwich. BBG bashguards in America sells them kinda cheap
>>917397 SMooth or not wasn't the issue. I'm wondering if the clamp that it, or the FD is on is slipping (up and down, respectively) on the seat tube.
And yes, your 'upper' limiter is way too tight. Also, don't pull on the cable with more than finger force when fastening it. That's what the barrel adjusters are for; taking up the slack and tuning.
Downshifting with a bang is also a sure sign that your cable tension is way, way, way to high. Most likely because your limiter screw is too tight. You technically don't even need an upper limiter at all, so start by getting it working with the screw all the way out.
>>917425 Bad pic perhaps. This is what it looks like installed with double, but it's the same principle for a single. Just mount it at chain height for singles instead of slightly high as in the pic. Works wonders for my 1x10, is perfectly silent, cheap and discrete.
>>917432 No it's not common and normal bike gloves won't help. They are designed to provide cushion rather than protect against friction. They would disintegrate under this kind of stress. Something must be wrong with your grips. What do you use?
It's ANT+, but all my stuff is bluetooth. The Viiiiva bridge only works with their app. The Reflkt+ is $100 and doesn't even work as a stand alone computer and has no sensors or maps. I could get a Garmin 520 with all the sensors and shit for $330, but then I have a second set of ANT devices and it is by far the most expensive option.
>>916449 Maybe you should be more careful? I ride memeskins 30 miles a day (except during winter months when I ride studded tires, like now), and I've never wiped out in the wet. On some really steep climbs carrying a heavy load, I feel the rear tire slipping as I mash, but I manage ok.
>>916897 I have 3 batteries from aliexpress, work fine. Has worked fine for a year. They are 36v 13ah. For a small motor with peak draw being around 6 amps and average being 2-2.5 amps, it's been perfectly good. And at a third of the price of legally sold batteries.
I'm going to order a Mercier Nano and was wondering whether I should go for the 48cm or the 53cm version. I'm 5'7" with a 30" inseam. According to their chart, the 48cm version would give me 2" clearance over the top tube and the 53cm version would give me a 0.5" clearance.
>>917723 Depends what specifically you're after. If you want low flat risk and a decent ride quality, and aren't limited to using narrow tires, using the widest Pasela TGs that can fit in your frame will give you both (wider surface area means there's less pressure to drive pointy objects into your tire's casing).
>>917773 If you live someplace wet/muddy enough to make them useful nobody will look askance at them.
>>917774 I basically have a flat bar road bike that I'm building up as a commuter, so I'm looking for grip on wet and puncture resistance but can't get more than 700*25 while still mounting my fenders.
It's been raining heavily here so the ground is wet as fuck.
I've got to go ride somewhere but I don't have fenders. Is there some way I could jury-rig up some fenders or something? I've got a pannier rack. Would putting something over it so that it's not just a wireframe help stop my back from getting covered in dirty road water?
>>917938 Not me personally no. There's a workaround.
What you do is run a piece of inner tube where the gap is. If you don't have enough clearance for that, then you're probably screwed anyway for many other reasons.
I couldn't find a pic and I don't have a camera to show you, but it works basically just as well as a full fender would.
We've been using this technique in the Pacific Northwest for years now. It rains 364 days a year here, so we've gotten it down to an art by now. Pretty much any LBS around here can make this modification for you too.
>>914280 Is there a way to fix a sidewall cut? about 1/2 inch long. I have this thing called amazing goop I use for household gluing and it's pretty strong stuff, a drop smaller than a nose booger can make it impossible to unscrew a bottlecap when used.
The glue is claimed to be able to withstand to -45, which is suitable for my uses and has a rating of 3500 psi. It's like hot glue in a tube. I have glued it and it seems to be holding great but is it advisable to ride on it? It's waterproof and doesnt react to chemicals. Before you ask, it's an ice spiker with less than 4 months of use. I'd buy a new tire if it didn't cost me an escort visit.
I haven't *quite* garnered the funds necessary to purchase a good pair of clipless pedals and shoes, and my feet are fucking freezing during my rides. Is there any impromptu alternatives I can use to keep my feet from freezing until I can get a good pair of road shoes and overshoes?
really basic question. I ride road and fixed for fun I ride the fixie almost daily. it's a pre cursa with a alpina track fork. I've built a rigid 29er. today was my first ride with it. the steering feels super weird, as if I need super much force and I really have to steer with the bar instead of mostly just my weight on the bike ( does that make sense ) the headset turns fine though.
that's normal and I will get used to it , right ? it's the different geometry, right ?
>Evans Cycles just rung me up >apparently I did a survey recently and scored a 6/10 and he was asking why >was completely caught off guard and sperged out >told him about the bike that was fucked last year when it arrived and some problems >bloke says 'I'm sorry to hear that, it should have been sorted' >reply with 'oh it's alright' and kick myself for saying that
Fucks sake I'm usually alright with phones but when I'm caught off guard like that I spill spaghetti.
>>918307 Possible, but cost much more. If it's 10 speed you might be forced to go to eleven - with all of the component swaps that entails - when you want to upgrade the brakes.
Get a bike with hydros to begin with if you can. If you can't afford that right now, you would probably be best advised to buy a bike to ride while you save up for a bike with hydros - you'll be able to recover more money by selling a complete bike than all of the components you would need to swap out to convert a mech disc bike to a hydro disc bike.
I can't shift into the big ring from my small ring some times, mostly on slight inclines. The derailleur will move, but the chain doesn't make it onto the big chain ring so it just ends up slapping and clicking on the sides of the derailleur cage. I've tried fidgeting with the barrel adjuster for cable tension by adding more, but it still doesn't seem to do it. Any suggestions?
>be me >want to start cycling >literally zero knowledge in bikes >come to thus thread >Don't understand anything >might as well be fucking reading russian >wat do guys? I really want to learn so I can get into it but i don't know shit or where to start.please don't hate guys. Kinda desperate. This is like my 4th thread seeking this.
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