Old thread >>906418
Just put on the electric conversion for winter riding. All wheel drive!
I like how you've been gradually, consistently making this a better bike over time. How do you like those tires so far?
This makes me uncomfortable - I'm not a racist who gets upset about 'miscegenation' nor am I an anti-e-bike bigot, but still, somewhere deep inside me there's still a little voice that says these things just ain't right.
Thanks. I like the tires, mostly due to the fact that they're 25mm instead of my previous 23mm, though I still would have preferred Pro4s instead of Lithion 2, but they were too good of a deal to pass.
And I promise I'll get a carbon fork one day.
Thanks man! I got it few months ago for $200 on CL. Been commuting on it all winter, (around 20-30 miles a day) and loving it.
Just wish I could find some decent looking, affordable fenders.
Some jerk off stole my saddle bag so I need a new one of those too.
I agree about the freezer. It's at my work obviously... this bitch is sweet.
I'm glad to hear the bike is working well for you. Having moved recently and now without an automobile, I was thinking of purchasing a craigslist bike soon. If I could ask, how do you figure whether the bike is a good fit for you based on a listing?
Also, what kind of a place do you work at? That really is quite the fridge.
My dad gave me a 60cm motobecane when I was a kid so I knew I needed a frame at least that big. I just test rode as many large frames in my price range as I could. I rode a couple aluminum treks, they were light but felt cheap. I looked at a alu. Specialized allez that had a fucked up derailleur. Looked at a bunch of shitty old bikes with different problems (stem shifters, biopace cranks, bad tires, bad paint etc.) in the end the shogun just ended up being the best deal for my situation and I had gone a month without a bike and was starting to get desperate so I gave the guy an offer.
It's a bakery. Gotta keep shit fresh
Neat, electric commuting is the way to go. Faster, and you arrive without being all sweaty. Energy is saved for hard fun rides after work.
I think it's a bit of a mistake to put a heavy battery on a rear rack (though that one probably isn't toooo heavy), it's better to mount them inside the triangle for lower center of gravity and better weight balance.
Why are you so against progress my friend ? Are Why must everything stay analogue ? Are you against progress in technology? And are you a communist by any chance?
Why aren't you driving an electric cage to work then? What's the point of an e-bike? Oh right, the point is to careen wildly down the MUP screaming in a panicked voice for everyone to leap out of the way because you can't control your vehicle.
There is a reason these things are banned on bike paths, and there is a reason they're banned on /n/. Just go away.
What in the back, Alfine 8? Be careful my electric brethren, when the conditions get really bad the last thing you want is that front wheel losing traction.
>There is a reason these things are banned on bike paths
As long as they apply with certain regulations, in certain countries/cities, they're legally no different from an unassisted bike and can be ridden anywhere they can.
>and there is a reason they're banned on /n/
lolno. Like it or not they are transportation.
There's some awful respiratory bug floating around WA at the moment, haven't gotten to ride for nearly a week.
First relatively cold winter ride, 45F. Haven't rode less than 50F in a year
Just built up this Rockhopper for winter. Those 2 inch tires are pretty slow moving so I'll probably get some 1.25-.5 something. Oh and a double crankset, not a fan of that giant chainring. I'm a guy who likes options and versatility.
Otherwise this thing is a real shitkicker.
I will take that into consideration . Keep th power low. Thanks for the heads-up.
I built to electric bike for my parents with torque sensor and proportional pedal assist, those would work great. I have just pedalec.
It is pretty ugly yeah. It's not permanent though, just for the winter. Don't want to work too hard.
I finally killed this hill I've been fighting since August.
Why do the bars have to angled down more and the hoods up higher if it is currently comfy?
My understanding is stem/bar/hood placement is all based on fit and comfort. I can reach the level with 2 full fingers while in the drops and understood that was the main issue with bar angle and hood placement.
I would love to improve my bike's fit, but I also know not everyone here knows what they are talking about and even further it is hard to accurately judge someone's fit with so little information.
I find it comfy, I am not sliding forward and not too much pressure in front; but I know someone else has pointed that out.
Is that because my stem is so high up already? I do plan on lower that once I get enough time on the bike in it's current setup.
Here's my most hipster photo yet, a picture of an old bike taken with film in front of graffiti.
Put that rear fender back on man, it made it look sporty.
I think it's just something up with your camera/corrupted image that just so happens to line up with the edge of the fountain. It seems to be a straight vertical section that's messed up, look at the tip of the saddle, the cable on the seat tube, the chain just left of the chain ring, and the ground and you'll see a similar effect.
>I'll have to go check the original picture and see if it's like that.
i've never seen that effect from anything in-camera when shooting film.
my guess would be something from scanning it, assuming you scanned it. either an error or it got jiggled.
You do realize that literally no form of motorized transportation has yet been invented that is more efficient than a bicycle? Do to their simplicity I doubt there will be. We are talking 90%+ of your input energy transferred to mechanical. Even if you could somehow build a 90% efficient e-bike running off of solar power, the production of the electronic parts themselves would still make the entire endeavour more energy intensive.
TLDR: bicycles are fucking tits senpai, get on our level
The electricity and parts require no energy expenditure on my part, thus for the same amount of energy I can go further or faster with an electrically assisted bike.
I suppose if you really want to be a dick you could argue that the money I pay for electricity and parts was earned through my own energy, but even with my manual labour job my pay rate is far more efficient when you consider what I get (said electricity and parts) for the energy expended versus putting that energy straight into pedalling a bike.
>You do realize that literally no form of motorized transportation has yet been invented that is more efficient than a bicycle?
not really... on the basis of fuel costs
for what a gallon of gasoline costs, you cannot spend the same amount on food and get the same caloric content.
one gallon of gasoline = ~31,000 calories; try shopping and see
by the by--the cost of electricity for an electric vehicle is usually so low that it is almost inconsequential.
the main cost of an electric vehicle is the batteries necessary for onboard power storage.
This is the reason that electric trains are the only form of electric-powered transportation that has been adopted worldwide--because a train runs on a fixed route (that you can string electrical wires over or "under") and so it avoids the necessity of batteries.
some anon I met in an 'every day carry' thread on /g/ asked me to post my brompton M6R-X here. are there any regular threads on /n/ I might be interested in?
That was me, thanks for delivering. For the record, we encourage pictures taken from the drivetrain side (opposite of what you posted), but that's fine.
Have a look around, some train and plane threads have a little /g/ in them.
i realised this after the fact. will take another pic, more close-up of the gears/chain/tensioner.
i have to say i'm mostly interested in extremely practical forms of transport (which is why i have a Brompton) and new technologies used for bikes. cars don't really interest me, trains i see about 3 hours a day.
Since changed the pedals and lights to black. 78" chain... Lots of rolling hills where I live
There's a difference between curved and bent, aesthetically.
Nice reaction may may
Whatever your fucked up ideas about fit are, is wrong bucko.
The 5mm a different between seat position should warrant dropping 80 bones on a performance seat post.
With those tall swept back bars and that seat slammed forward, I can't tell if you've either got the wrong sized frame, or your arms are really short.
Aesthetically, curved blades look nice with a tradition seatpost that only bends to meet the setback measurement at the last moment. Straight blade or angled blade forks, like on most track forks, look better with those Thomson posts. Especially black carbon and black aluminium.
not him, but you're wrong. some are straight, but Thompson is well known for posts bent for more setback. the image search results are like 1 bent for every 2 or 3 straight.
so much for your hot opinions, fagtron
That's clearly a Thompson a fat person sat on. Here's a normal thomson pre-fat person.
Rides like a charm, ultegra is really some good groupset.
Gotta change those useless fenders btw. Any suggestion is welcome.
Sexy colors friend I was considering a fake venge frame from alirxpress
this time from the right side.
some more info on the bike itself:
was bought black, from a certified seller. they repainted it as it appears to have been pink previously. I need to have it recoated.
since buying I had upgraded the brakes, brake levers, put on a SON XS dynamo, and an edelux II front light.
planning to have it recoated properly.
I fixed my other bikes that had the seatpost clamp the wrong way but did not notice this one, thank you
I just got into cycling only a few months ago, I think I am doing pretty good having fixed 10 or so older bikes and built 3 completely from frame up with help from Sheldon, youtube, and the awesome few /n/ posters that do not have shit for brains
Fit is probably off, but all that I know to do is look up tutorials and videos to help me improve it as much as I can and find the right spot for the saddle/seatpost/stem height and length/hood position/cleat position. Aside from that I can spend a good amount of money to get myself professionally fit, but I would rather learn how to than throw money to get the answers I need
I'd be glad to hear why to replace things so that I have a better bike overall. l am open for all advice
New tires, .5 bigger than the old ones. Still need some cable cutters so I can actually put a cable through the rear brake though.
I have a B17 saddle as well, but I like the Cambium more
It feels less stiff than my B17 which would be that I need to break in the leather but regardless the Cambium feels great out of the box
> not really... on the basis of fuel costs
for what a gallon of gasoline costs, you cannot spend the same amount on food and get the same caloric content.
> one gallon of gasoline = ~31,000 calories; try shopping and see
But, you see, that is not what anon was saying.
Burning 31,000 kalories to drive ~20 miles is not what I would call efficient.
Can you do me a favor and measure the bottom bracket shell? Is the carbon part 68mm, and they just glued in a 86mm tube that sticks out? Trying to figure out if it has clearing for a triple.
I used this type
The bottom bracket tube sticks out maybe 5mm+ on each side but carbon still covers it
aw shit just built one of these up for a coworker. pretty awful looking welds, but theyre just not aesthetic they'll probably hold forever. Brake mounts are stupid though. Anyone know if there's anything on the market for when the spring tab holes are on the inside? would pauls work?
I went out for a night ride tonight in philly downtown and was sprinting blowing through lights wearing all black getting real retarded
Blowing through as a light turns green asshole at the light floors it, cuts over my lane with no signal to make a right
Time slows down and I get real low and deep in them f*cking drops and keep the bike a nano newton from skidding and slam in the f*cking bumper, crunch it bad, car moves just enough so I can correct and not fall
Car drove another ten feet down the road and I just started sprinting again. Both at fault
Hope the bumper didn't crack
You have a nice bike, don't ride like a faggot though!
Sexy. It would be sexier if you used black electrical tape instead of (what looks like) blue painter's tape.
Even with those fenders, this bike gave me a stiffy.
Handlebars look wonky to me. Too much of an angle coming from the top, going down. That aside, it's a very pretty bike.
I came a little. The appearance is perfect imo. Reds, blacks, and whites. The only colors I like on a bicycle. I myself haven't gotten into TT/Tri yet (I really, really, want to, but fucking money) but if you're even remotely serious, you need clipless pedals of some kind.
I don't really like anything besides black, red, and white on a bike. But I came anyways.
I see the saddle nose could be raised from the picture
What do I need to do with the bar/brake lever placement? Bring brake levers up more and aim bar up more?
I have seen a few different youtube videos on this and comparing to other bike pictures in this thread and anywhere else with STI's, this looks like what I have seen and feels comfy and from the drops I can easily grab the brake levers with 2-3 full fingers
Any way I could convince you to measure it? From the pics, it looks like a shell originally designed for a 68mm BB30 or BSA instert, that they stuck a longer 86mm shell into. But it sounds like that may be wrong. The problem with triples is the inner ring overhangs an external bearing bottom bracket and runs very close to the frame, and actually goes past the BB shell on a press fit frame.
Some new bits on the AERO TREK TREK TREK. Got a Fizik Antares R3 carbon saddle, an FSA carbon seatpost, and a Garmin eTrex touch 35 with speed and cadence sensors for Christmas presents to myself. Saddle is awesome and light, and having the Garmin gives me so much useless data to look at, it's great.
I have a Microsoft Band that I was using prior to the Garmi. The Garmin obviously does a way better job for tracking bike rides, and I've been using the Band for heart rate. I have been considering getting a separate HR monitor though so all the data is in one handy package.
Do you use one of the chest monitors? Are they fairly comfortable? Good brand?
Thanks man! Pedals on it now are Shimano Dura-Ace PD-9000s SPD-SL that I got a couple months ago. Honestly, they're pretty much perfect, and they compliment the dura-ace drive train. Can't see myself changing any time soon.
But /n/ told me that if I leave everything attached to my bike it makes it more like a murdercage and it is my dream to have a murdercage and have a heart attack and rage at strangers like a real grown-up.
It was left on because my old bike was stolen along with the mounting bracket for the bag. When I got my new bike I had to ziptie the bag to the seat bottom to make it work.
People steal saddle bag because they believe there's money or valuables in it.
Ok, that high resolution and I still thought I seen a set of platform pedals. Very nice set up
I have a fizik saddle also, they are nice once broken in.
amazing photo, nice snow beast, I dont know shit about your bike. is that a 650b rear and a fat bike fork and wheel set up?
nice frankenstein commuter, I like it.
Just picked up the 2016 Raleigh Cadent today. Really love it so far, much faster and lighter than my 30 year old mountain bike.
I plan on putting drop bars on it and removing the wheel reflectors as soon as possible.
The frame is from a 26 inch MTB from the 90's. The wheels are 27", but since 700c are just 8mm shorter, the long reach brakes would grip them just right.
I can either use diacompe caliper brakes or v-brakes. Or cantilever brakes. I know because I have tried all of them.
You're wrong. Get over it.
It sounded like you were implying you could use canti's with either of those rim options, which is wrong.
What you're doing is still wrong, but more from an ethical standpoint.
Looks like it handles shitty.
It does handle not so well, but that's because I haven't got used to it yet. I finished assembling it today, and shortly after it began raining. I don't want to rust the exposed steel yet.
honestly I don't get what raleigh is trying to do. They have carbon road bikes and also walmart tier bso. what the fuck are they trying to achieve? I wouldn't buy a road bike by raleigh if they still produce shit bikes. why dont they get their shit together?
First time on this board, this is my baby she gets the job done.
Yeah, 2nd guy guessed close... both 26" wheels, 26+ rear 26+++ front. 5" (80mm rim)front, 2.8" (50mm alu rim) rear.
Why thanks, we have some amazing terrain here, and loving this bike setup. 26+ rear and the fattest of fat tires up front. Really a game changer for winter biking, pic is where I was riding today.
>I plan on putting drop bars on it and removing the wheel reflectors as soon as possible.
>buy new bike with the intent of changing out something non-trivial
Why not buy a bike with drops in the first place?
You know you'll have to replace the shifters and levers too, right?
Buying a complete flat bar bike and replacing stock components with drop bars and all the paraphernalia on it is not DIY, it's stupidity. Buying a frameset made for drop bars or compatible with both types of bars and putting drops on it is DIY.
you flip the trigger up and there's a schrader valve. You fill it up to about 100psi with your bike pump and you're good to go.
It's loud as all fucking hell, too. Really effective on (most) cars.
Ya, there's lots of bike lanes and paths. Most of the time I drive with traffic no problemo
I'm so thrilled by the amount of cycling infrastructure we have. There's no feeling in the world like being able to bike from my apartment in the city, hit the light rail to littleton or golden, and then bike right tha fuck into the mountains. This spring my touring rig ought to be completed and I'll be able to do camping trips that way.
Colorado is, in general, very bike friendly. We have hundreds of miles off bike paths and decent bike lanes or bike bike friendly routes in place. It's almost to the point where cyclists get away with more than we should.
The levers should be vertical and the hoods angled slightly upwards. Yours are much, much to far down.
On classic bend bars like yours, a ruler held along the bottom of the drop should pass just under the tip of the lever.
It's been a while since I posted my touring rig here. I've made some changes.
New bar/stem - Nitto Albatross w/ Nitto stem
Brake levers and calipers - vintage Koski Power Lites
Pedals - Odyssey Trailmix
Saddle - Brooks B17 aged
Front/rear rack - Dajia rear rack and Velo Orange Passhunter w/ decaleur
Handlebar Bag - Ostrich
I'll be getting a matching seat post as soon as the distributor gets some Nitto Crystal 65s back in stock.
Really cool, more pics please. Have you ridden with those bars on any long rides yet?
I think the law comment was just snark about the average cyclist's behavior.
Should we try to arrange a Colorada/n/ camping trip/ride at some point this year? We've got at least 5-6 regular posters along the Front Range.
thanks. I have done an all day gravel ride on the albatross bar, but I wouldn't do it again. Hand positions are a pretty limited. I mostly use this cockpit for city cruising/commuting.
I'll post more photos once I have a non-potato camera.
Idk if I should post this in the troll bike thread or not, but this is my latest build.
feeling vry emotional rn
just destroyed my rear wheel and I have no money to fix it
my tire blew out, rim came apart at the seam and the axle snapped in two, only thing holding it together was the skewer
I always thought riding a component into submission would feel good but I'm too broke to replace it ;_;
Beautiful bike, shame about that wheel.
I know how it feels to completely fuck your bike when you're broke, anon.
You might have luck with a bike co-op, grab a spare wheel for cheap, or maybe find someone willing to let you borrow one of their old wheels.
I wish you luck anon, it's a shame to not have that bike on the road.
thanks dude, yeah I saw a possibly suitable replacement on craigslist for $15 for the time being, probably should just face reality and go pick it up, just sick of unreliable old ass taco wheels
dreaming of building a set of A719's
I could ride my MTB I guess but it sucks for covering a lot of miles, and my other bikes (that need a bit of TLC as well) don't have any fender clearance
That sounds awful, I've experienced all three of those failures but never all at once. On the bright side at least it was a wheel and not your frame, at least the fix is a straightforward replacement.
Also, where are you located? Maybe someone here has a spare wheel.
I was just lucky I was in the town my sister lives in at the time so she gave me a lift the 40km home. I did 109k yesterday and would've been in a bad situation if it happened then.
I'm in Abbotsford, it's just outside Vancouver (hence the urgent need for fenders haha)
Is that your frame? I would shed a tear.
Grease me up and call me fred.
Is there a particular reason you swapped the bars?
Bar end shifter + thumbie
Its my favorite way to shift you should try it
I'd start by visiting a local shop and looking at their offerings. If you're new to road bikes, even a basic one will do fine until you figure out your needs and preferences more specifically.
Its a Velo orange. I got it because it includes shims to use on a variety of bar diameters. All of them are around the same price just make sure you get the right ones. I originally bought the Paul thumbies for Sram and was pleasantly surprised to find out they are incompatible.
if thats where your seat needs to be, you got trolled by your friendly LBS on sizing. sorry