Old one's maxed
just got new carbon forks and she finally rides like she was meant to
I think she looks good with a bit of a flamboyant touch. I had pink tape on before and I liked the look. I had this white stuff lyin around but next time I'm thinking cyan or something neat like that. Might aswell embrace the loud colours
finally got the right fit, guess the frame's too small but I love it
New cables, housing, levers, tape, parking brake, brass ferrules, and rebuilt the hubs.
Wanted to try some rigid mountain biking, so I built this thing up. Muuucho fun.
Crashed on the downhill return ride.
Had to ride 40 miles after this.
I overcooked a corner.
I felt the rear slipping sideways twice before I realized I was running out of room and decided to lean into it as much as possible, wound up low siding and sliding.
Didn't hurt much, but the scabs kept rubbing and sticking to my clothes as it healed.
>i'm skinny as fuck. but thanks.
Maybe some day I'll have an old Cannondale as nice as that
Could I ever make this into a more tour type bike? 650b tires I was looking at schwalbe slicks so I can eventually do 100 miles without dying.
I believe so, this will make it easier when I purchase racks hopefully! My LBS said not to put different tires either. Grippier metal pedals inbound though. Decided against clipless until I get my cadence down pat (and I come into the money)
Bike in progress, planning on putting 105 on it, might need to snag a longer seatpost so it's inserted far enough to be safe, and I need a shorter stem
Why do you say that? I actually prefer a smaller fit/frame than what's normally done...are you thinking about the long seatpost acting like a lever against the cf frame or something? Im sure it will be fine, my saddle is pretty far forward anyways. The height in the pic isn't realistic, i just put it on for the pic
Man i aint got no experience painting no bikes. That one does look really nice though
pic related is not mine but ive got pretty much the same one, except frame size is 66cm
Its from 1988 and still works absolutely smooth as fuck with no replacements or fixes at all, its insane how reliable these kogas are. I should take a picture of mine when I clean the dirt off it
yeah that's harsh
my bikes had 39/25 and 42/28 and even that was a bit steep
kept the 39/25 on the racier ones but threw one of these guys on the touring model. Might not be a bad idea for you to grab one of these, give yourself a nice bailout gear, plus if you don't already have 7 speeds, it'll be a nice addition of cogs
you're a faggot if you think your amateur engineering skills are better than a hundred of cycling history.
drop bars are the gold standard for a reason.
in all likelihood, you'll regret the bullhorns.
drop bars are simply more comfortable and versatile, and look way better with integrated shifters.
I've got poor man's bullhorns on my other bike and I love them, so I'm not too worried about disliking these once I complete the build. I had some origin8 drop bar ends before on my commuter, just for kicks, and I found that I rarely ever was even in the drops, but I was almost always on the hoods, so...
as >>907244 says, that's a good solution, but when i tried to do that on my vintage bike, i discovered that the cranks were to the old standard established by campy: the BCD is so big it will literally not support a chainring smaller than 42. so not always a viable solution for a vintage racer.
i broke down and did exactly what this anon >>907113 did. you really have to spinout the low gear before you shift to 2nd, took a little getting used to and still annoying. otherwise its the same ratios as what came stock with the bike.
however, once i put it on, my short-cage RD wouldn't clear the big gear, so i had to put a newer, long cage RD on. luckily, my LBS had salvaged a new Deore off of a crashed bike and gave me a good price. so in trying to avoid buying a new crankset and rings, i still ended up buying a new derailleur.
tl;dr both anons have good solutions, but you may be looking at replacing more than just a ring or a freewheel, just a heads-up.
don't worry buddy, once you start riding more with longer distances on your carbon fiber baby, you'll get enough experience to understand how wrong you were.
The fact of the matter is that drop bars give you at least two more hand positions. This is important in getting circulation in to your hands. Drop bars also give you a lower position that will change your power stroke, use different muscles in your body, and shrink your wind resistance factor. This is very important for efficiency during climbs and descents. Drop bars are also safer because the goring end of the bar is more protected. While you might not know what shape of bar you want now, there is a wide variety of drop bars on the market, especially compared to bullhorns, that will allow you to fine tune the shape. Mechanically, most integrated shifters are made in a way that routes the cables for drop bars. You'll have to hamfist together a solution that might add extra resistance on the cables in the housing. Most of these hamfisted jobs wind up putting the hoods in a position that is unusable or at least uncomfortable. At the very least, you'll be lowering the resale value of your bike because no one uses bull horns on an endurance road bike and time trial fags will laugh at you.
But by all means, if you think you're a special snowflake who knows better than every professional in the cycling industry, take your time learning the hard way.
Are you a drop bar salesman? Why are you so defensive? I've tried multiple different setups and my favorite so far has been the bullhorn style. I've had no problem getting tucked in to an aero position or anything like that and I've even managed to get my brakes and shifters working perfectly fine
If you saw how my commuter is set up you'd probably have an aneurysm
yes, i represent the united federation of drop bar manufacturers united.
I'm not being defensive, however that's literally what you are doing by trying to justify your shitty component choice.
I'm providing a little information on a web forum to someone who clearly is a newbie to the hobby.
I'm not saying that bullhorns aren't functional,but they are not as functional as drop bars and you're only hindering yourself by not sucking it up and going with it until it makes sense.
By all means, you could keep riding with training wheels or the seat slammed if you wanted to because they make it more difficult to lose control and crash, but it doesn't make it right.
I'm in the final stages of getting my touring bike together, and I have the option to get some moustaches.
>newbie to the hobby
Oh alright I'm being trolled, I get it. Well alright then.
But just in case you're serious, ive got a bike with drop bars on it, albeit an old bike, but drop bars nonetheless, and I can count the times I've actually gone down into the drops on one hand, so I know what I like and don't like and have decided to go with what suits my riding style best
doggie, again, you bought origin 8 drop bar ends.
this shows your ignorance.
Also again, if you've ridden your rusty OTS around and have never used the drops, I can't blame you. You probably didn't ride over 25 miles.
If you look, in industry, to the bikes that roll with bull horns, you'll see they are time trial bikes, and time trials are a whole other animal. They are short rides (25 miles) and they are flat sprints, where they focus on using only certain muscles that are less likely to be used during the run and swim.
Now, the best I can hope for is that 6 months down the line, you'll wise up and realize your stupidity, and then when you're recabling your bike, and rewrapping your bars, you'll know that all you had to do was listen, and this could have all been avoided.
Basically, I want you to feel like a fool.
Welcome to 4chan.
I can't recommend moustache bars, but i can't recommend them enough.
The problems are that they only come in one size, they don't fit every bikes riding style, and bar end shifters usually have their own problems.
I usually ride a ~42cm drop bar, and the moustache is comfy. The bend gives a pretty wide platform for my hands and palms to lay on. The back position is more relaxed. The fore position is used less often, usually only in a tuck or high cadence spin.
The width of the bar is great for dirt roads and it's possible to get a lot more technical and aggressive control, this isn't always necessary for the type of riding you could be doing.
The bar end shifters will get bumped when you lean it against a wall, your leg, or sometimes the top tube. I don't like having cable housing under the tape. I've also had one shifter mount crack on me after a crash. DT shifters are more resilient. But on the other hand, it's nice being able to shift with one hand mashing up single track, or while eating a banana.
You're doing gods work, anon.
Anon, listen to the dropbar aficionado >>907404
Yeah, he's being an abrasive dickbag, but that's 4chan for you. That doesn't mean dickbag doesn't have a point.
If you're not planning on long rides, sure, whatever, I guess it doesn't matter. Build your fashionbike the way you want to. But if you're planning on doing any real riding, dropbars are the norm for a REASON.
Many moons ago, when I was much dumber (like you!), I got into biking via mountain biking. All I knew was flatbars, so when I built up a commuter, I went with flats. "Fuck drop bars, I like how these look, and it's what I've always ridden!" Then I tried to join some friends of mine on a multi-day tour. Pinky and ring finger on my left hand went numb midway through the second day, and I bought some bar-end grips in desperation on the 3rd day to try and give me some more hand positions.
I immediately switched to dropbars when I got back home, and have never looked back. Sure, I ride on the hoods 80% of the time, but I'm damn thankful the drops are there for the other 20%.
On another topic, that frame looks waaaaay too small. Dat stem, dat seatpost...
The main position on bullhorns is basically the same as the hoods on dropbars, isn't it?
You have the tops position for easy riding, and various hood positions that you can be more or less extended on.
Only thing you're missing is the actual drop part, which is good for sprinting and descending. For keeping out of the wind you can just put your arms flat on the hoods (or even in the bullhorn case, fit aerobar).
And numb hands aren't really exclusive a particular type of bar.
>same as the hoods on dropbars
which is why it's not some colossal paradigm shift
>only thing you're missing ... sprinting and descending
which is like half the fun of cycling
>arms flat on the hoods
what the fuck am i reading
This feels like samefagging but ill entertain it
im essentially riding bullhorns on my everyday commuter, back and forth to campus/work and then longer rides here and there when i have time (so i spend /quite/ a lot of time riding it) and never have i dealt with any of the numbness/soreness that you're talking about, and those bars aren't even wrapped.
And to be honest, yeah, the frame did come in a little smaller than i was expecting it to, but i really dont mind, i usually ride a bit..."tighter" (?) of a fit/position than what is usually recommended. Flexibility hasn't ever been an issue either so i think im good on these fronts
>>what the fuck am i reading
Position on the right.
you're samefag detection game is weak and wrong, son.
>those bars aren't even wrapped
holy fuck, how deep does the rabbit hole go?
this disregards every ounce of your opinion until you rectify this.
oh, i get it, it's just another dumb riding position that sacrifices maneuverability and braking control.
>>oh, i get it, it's just another dumb riding position that sacrifices maneuverability and braking control.
uhh...it's difficult to explain why im not able to wrap these bars but, well, there's just not enough space, you see?
However this is literally the best setup ive ever gotten on a bike, for me at least. Its cuts down on a lot of unnecessary stuff and gives me just what i need to ride properly.
Also it's nimble as shit, avoiding potholes and road hazards all day every day
The best part is that that front shock doesnt even work anymore so i might as well be riding a hybrid style but i just havent gotten around to getting a corrected fork.
I mean, yeah, it's a kludge job (the base part of the handlebars is actually an MTB riser that i flipped and cut, It's only about 30 cm wide at the "horns", Im kind of proud of that working so well) and the brake levers are flipped left/right because the front brake cable bent too sharply crossing over from the "traditional" side.
It took me a while to get it just right but now that ive got it set right i wouldn't have it any other way. This bike used to have a flat bar with bar ends on it when i first got it/started riding so often
I mean, hey, if it's stupid but it works, then it's not stupid. The only thing i dislike about it is that the brake levers are busted, but they still tighten down well and unless im banging on the side of them they stay where i need them to be
except i explicitly mentioned that it does work, despite being a unique/non-traditional setup up. If something wasn't working for me, i would change it, thats why i choose to forgo drop bars :^)
Where in my post did you get the idea that something here "doesn't work?
I'll give you "the fork", but thats a separate issue, and rarely is it noticeable unless im climbing out of the saddle and really putting a lot of force through the bike, and even then it's not a humongous deal
i know its completely unrelated to the thread but is that a fender or is it valco made guitar with a well placed fender logo or some scary combination of the two. my bike just for the sake of relevance.
starting to remind me of a hobo cart for some reason
provided the seat is set up right, i think it's only when a seat is slammed, or less than, say, two inches high, does it reflect that the rider would not have the proper standover height over the top tube.
that seat looks normal, to me.
the geometry on that bike is pretty janky to begin with, but that along with the positive rise flatbar, makes the fit probably decent.
the other issue is having a flatbar road bike. It probably feels pretty swervy to ride.
>select all images with bicycles
I really like this, it looks very carefree and fun. The stickerbomb look can be difficult to get right but you've managed to make it look decent, what about in wet weather? Do they start peeling?
literally posted on reddit and the filename makes me worried that this isn't just bait
you are a retarded autist and you should take the front brake off so that you may hopefully get hit by a car
Just looked at this board for the first time and I'm assuming that this is the bike general.
I've been using my parents car to go to work but I intend to switch to a bike. The only problem - winter/rain. Are there any efficient means of making your bike rides weather proof?
this is the thread to post pics of your bike so anons can talk shit about it.
there's a /bqg/ or bike questions general, check the catalog.
there's a winter riding thread up, check the catalog.
before you ask what type of bike to buy, we have a /bbg/ --bike buy general, check the catalog
fenders for rain. rain coat (breathable fabric and/or well vented to disperse body heat) i use a rain hat with a big ol brim with it since hoods defeat your ability to shoulder-check. the brim keeps raindrops from stabbing into your eyeballs.
for mist and drizzle, wool clothing repels it just fine.
those rubber dishwashing gloves from the supermarket are the best waterproof gloves you can get. they retain heat up to a point, then add liner gloves as needed.
use the /bqg/ next time
Australian-tier shitposting, disregard this advice
Check out the winter commuting thread if you live anywhere genuinely cold and ride more than a mile or two. Even "just rain" can be horrible if it's in the 30s and you're unprepared. Layers, water/ice/snow protection, extremities, and loss of grip can be anything from miserable and life-threatening, to a mild inconvenience, depending on how prepared you are.
Just built this up. Needs some refining on the cockpit but otherwise it rides great. Snappy handing, very stiff, and no toe overlap.
After I crashed my Roubaix this last summer, I searched for something more aggressive. It's hard to find decent-tier alloy framesets these days so I jumped when my lbs had this hidden among a variety of cinelli mash frames.
Eventually I plan to upgrade to sram rival 22, 3t cockpit, and whatever aero carbon cheapo wheels I can find. Can't wait for road season. :3
Because everybody who lives in the winter has a pack of dogs with a sled for that magical snowy bring-your-dog-to-work-day. Totally bro, you might have just ended global warming with that observational statement.
Thinking about a leather saddle. Need bigger panniers and possibly front ones.
Any suggested mods or improvements will be considered.
>V E S T I G I A L
I spy proof that your bike has evolved over time. Out of curiosity, do those interrupter levers you have hooked up work with the v-brakes?
Not that guy, but I agree with him. A cable lock is fine for a low security situation, but your photo suggests a publicly visible rack where foot traffic wouldn't be unusual, a fairly comfortable place for someone with bad intentions to come back to with a pair of wirecutters.
Cable locks are incredibly easy to cut. They just aren't any good. Your bike isn't a a fancy theft target, but it's still YOUR bike and you're going to be heartbroken if it gets stolen. Invest in a real lock.
>Out of curiosity, do those interrupter levers you have hooked up work with the v-brakes?
Sure does. Else I wouldn't have it.
Cheers. >>907537 is quite literally a troll bike to illicit comments online and prevent absolutely anyone from stealing it when it's locked up. I still mash around town on it and use it for my daily beater, but it's certainly not the only thing I ride.
>mad spacer stack for maximum comfy
>chinsy townie looking front basket
>mismatched crankset and low tier looking pedals
Not bad. If you can remove the Surly decal, it'll help. Most know Surly = expensive, and brifters don't help such fact. Sticker/spray/tapebomb and you're probably good as it's a PITA to remove said customizations.
Pretty sure I could take a better quality picture than you did using a pinhole camera made out of a potato and some solar print paper...
And is that a VO crankset?
Honestly it looks like a pretty decent commuter, but on the other hand that handlebar position is nutty - did you buy your frame a size too small by accident?
i think its the crap lighting fucking the camera
yes, vo, self extracting
i bought the bike cause the standover height is perfect, and i used to have a mega aggresive setup. I was doing over 20 min rides and my back and neck was killing me, so i said fuck it.
I'm on a military base. Having it stolen is probably the last thing that will happen while I'm here (there are more expensive bikes that have been sitting at my old barracks and squadron unmolested for years). When I get out this spring I will invest in a better lock.
Just need a set of wheels and I can finally build it.
Commuterized old rigid mtb, one of the best bikes I've owned, except from the rear u-brake which i wish was a regular canti/v-brake. For some reason the seatpost looks very long in this picture.
This one remains a great example of how a practical cargo hauling tank of a bike can also be stylish and good looking.
Nice fender game. Frame makes me jelly.
Diamondback is tange prestige (formerly tange 1).
Can't really tell a difference.
Oh, you're the faggot with the selfprofessed meme bike and you've gone through the process if changing out that front rack with 3 other hideous options.
Please just go already.
You have way too much money and time on your hands.
no anon, there's a difference between good fun and bad fun.
the type of fun that's based on trendy and uninformed consumerism is actually worse for the hobby as a whole. vile scum like him will hurt the industry if they go unchecked.
he sets a bad example for newbies trying to get into the hobby because they will frivolously be buying upgrades instead of riding upgrades, forging a learned appreciation for based sheldon, and the legendary rigid 90s MTB.
Regardless of what is being spent/done to his bikes, he's building them up how he wants and is (presumably) riding them. If he's got the money, let him fred out his rides.
So long as one is enjoying the hobby and not hurting or preventing others from doing the same, what's the harm?
Cracked the frame. Stupid welder guy won't get it done until the new year.
Whatever you're arguing there seems pretty meaningless. And if that's the way you like to approach things, feel free.
Meanwhile, I will continue to discourage people to make bad decisions and instead promote being more informed about cycling.
I mean, I suppose youd think square wheels are a good idea too, as long as they don't harm anyone and the owner is happy with them.
As an auto enthusiast, I can confirm that stance is a cancer to car culture. When form negatively impacts function, that pursuit is purely wrong and is not worth the investment, and should be discouraged as it is a detriment to the advancement of the industry/hobby/whatever.
Added -17° stem, and last night I put on a Sram Red right shifter, since my Force one was old and had developed a pretty annoying rattle.
First race of 2016 next month ya'll
Hi Garrett, we're TCR bros now. Have since cut the steerer tube. Can't wait for the 2016 racing season, exactly one month from now!
Nope. It's a SS specific frame. Did a fork swap to get the disc brake up front, but not much else.
There isn't any room between the chainstays for a tire larger than 32c, which is exactly what I have in there right now.
Thanks man. The thing with those cosmics is that even though they're heavy, they're damn near indestructible. Still as true as the day I bought them after nearly 4000 miles this year.
Didn't stop me from getting a KOM and being in top 10 of multiple segments today. Being dehydrated or getting hit by a car would effect your times more than any loss in aerodynamics.
Unless you're riding your mountain bike to thw trail, just stop. You're doing it wrong.
not to mention the velocity meme, the fork mounting meme, the phone case meme, camelbak meme, and the xtr meme.
also, your pedals suck and
>mounting a pump on your bottles when you've got a pump peg
I like the scenery though, looks rad. and warm.
Hah, fair enough.
Love it. Lynskey-built Salsa Vaya frame that I got a deal on earlier this year.
*shrugs* Everyone who's ridden it loves them. I really don't understand why they're such an object of hate for some people. These are the new ones based on TRP's Hylex brakes - super nice.
I wanted hydraulic discs and I already had the parts around for a 3x9 setup, so these were one of the few options.
Bruh. Multi-tool, tire levers, patches and a spare tube. Nice to have when you're 20 miles from anywhere.
Close friend gave it to me for Christmas and it was muddy out today, thought I'd give it a try? Didn't even realize they were a "thing".
They're nice wheels. Dyad rims, 36-spoke M785 Deore XT hubs, DTSwiss spokes. Pretty economical and very bulletproof.
eh, it's convenient. I've got a headlight on the other side.
Designed and printed it myself!
The RD was cheap on ebay, what can I say. I think the carbon jockey cage is silly, but my old M900 RD was developing too much play in the parallelogram - and it's impossible to find OEM 10T shimano pulleys anymore. Also, make that 2x XTR - it's hard to see, but the from derailleur XTR as well. It's an M900 unit from the early 90s. This is its... 3rd bike? I think?
I dunno, I think they're nice. Shimano T780 SPD pedals, with a nice platform on the other side if I'm not riding far and don't want to throw on my bike shoes.
>Mini pump with pump peg
Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know. Any suggestions on a good frame pump?
>airplane and weather
The local cycling trail takes me by a small airport, it's nice to watch the little GA aircraft out doing touch-and-go training flights. Weather was nice today, high 40s/low 50s.
here she is
been riding a lot lately,its just so incredibly smooth. Frame size is probably a bit too much for me as im only 1,75m but its comfortable
yep the way the gears are mounted is old fashioned and parts are pretty much unavailable. The only part I could find that fits is literally the same gearing as I already have
Slushy/icy winter bike; just threw on whatever was local and cheap outside of the tires.
My first okay bike.
I don't know if this is the right thread, its my first day posting here but: I'm feeling a little bit of discomfort below my ballz with this frame. It's one number bigger, I think. My mechanic guy indicated to me because I still dont know much about bikes, so I told him to set up a bike for me.
Is it dangerous to the prostate to ride with a bigger frame?
It's like one inch below the perfect level of the seat. I did this because the discomfort but its pretty ok for my legs, on my legs I don't fell discomfort at all.
My only concern is the prostate, heh.
Here's my current iteration of a half-fat bike.
New Vee 2XL on the front, largest production bicycle tire yet.... this thing is certainly a game changer for winter mountain biking!!! Especially with the "Pure Silica" compound, that makes the tread cream coloured, and also remains very soft and flexible in the cold.
it's an 89, it probably would have had aero levers I suppose but I snagged these nice NOS Dia Compe levers for next to nothing at the community bike shop.
Zip ties are a temporary solution, didn't realize the plastic cable guides are broken and won't stay clipped into the frame, so I'll have to replace them.
I like it, I have a Panasonic that I started out buying for 80$....300$ worth of upgrades later. Now Im afraid to lock it up outside when I ride.
I bought it for the purpose of leaving it outside without fear of loss. Fail for me...
That bike is clean.
>wanting less spokes
>needs to get a alloy-carbon wheel to get lesser spokes
>needs to carbonwheelset for almost no spokes
>fucking breaks the wheelset anyway because of the hit of the rimbrakes
>there it goes, 4000 bucks into le trash
Scott plasma 3
Enve tt bars
Ultegra 11sp di2 with dura ace bar end shifters (it's really neat cos you can shift gear from the bull horns as well as the bar ends!)
Usually have a tighter gear spread than this and no saddle bag, but it was bike pilgrimage time. Week's worth of luggage in that bag... It was awesome!
I know I know! On my shopping list! Had no more monay left after shelling out for the plasma. Turbo has pwr output which is OK, but currently trying to do me homework on the powermeters
This summer I did Le Route des Grande Alpes, unsupported and playing it by ear (we knew the flight numbers and that was all the plan we had!) Flew to Geneva, short pedal to Thonon-le-bains on the edge of Lake Geneva, then a 6 day odyssey over the Alps (about 4 big climbs, around 5000 - 8000m of climbing, and 80 miles a day) and ended up in Menton which is near Nice on the French riviera (it's next door to Monaco, which is an odd place.) got rained on only for the first leg of one day, which was the day we went up Telegraphe/Galiber. Bastard cloud obscured what's supposed to be the greatest view in all the Alps! Instead I got fog that you could barely see 15m in front of you, which made the descent a little harrowing if not just freezing!
I found some new front blades that fit, fucking finally. The oval biopace 52/42 are replaced by normie round 52/39. Would have preferred smaller than 39 but the mounting points are such that you cant go lower than 39. Lowest gear is now 39/23 which feels like a significant difference over the old 42/23, I feel its just the change I need, I can comfortably go 20kph now without having to stand. Long hills here I come
well I havent been on long hills yet, I avoided them because of my 42/23 gear. On my usual round there is a ~60m climb with 10% hill and a few more of that kind, and with those gears its pretty much a sprint up because there is no way to comfortable spin that shit. I do those with about 25kph average but im fucking dead on top. I did my first ride with the 39 today and I managed a similar average and felt alot more comfortable so thats nice. Longer climbs will probably destroy me though, ill see when I try
I like to gas roadcyclists when I overtake them on my tuff tuff bicycle
Didn't even almost remember I had this baby, excellent winter commuter. I kind of want to just buy a new frame and fork for it, like the cheapest On-one I could find or something.
Marathon Winters as tires, feels good roaring uphill and hearing those studs digging in the icy snow.
Cornering is awesome, especially when no-one is there to laugh at my technique or possible fall.
1984 Fuji Espree. Two year old picture, but the bike is basically unchanged. The "Fuji" isn't in as great shape because of commuting to work and using my U-Lock.
Now I only use it inside on my cheap nashbar trainer and drive to work ;_;
This happens on all the old cannondales
Shapeways has a 3D print job for them but they suck and don't really work
Your best be is problem solvers stick-on cable guides. I've used them without the included zip ties and they seemed to hold OK but not great
Or hunt for proper replacement guides.... maybe they're out there.
Owner of vintagecannondale.com was trying to have some made but I don't think it happened