Gunpla/Plamo General

This is the new thread

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Painting my GM sniper shield now.

Debating doing green and black or green and brown. Any suggestions?

>>15555014
Where is he going to hide? In a landfill?

>>15555014
I'd probably go with brown to be a little more subtle.

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>>15555018
Under his comfy cloak when he's all dry.
Senor Jesta is breaking it in for him.

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**MELEE GROUP BUILD**

Build/paint a robot with a loadout focused on melee combat! Anything from shields to swords to lances to axes to bare fists is fair game. There's no room for ranged weaponry here, however, so anything resembling a rifle, Rocket Launcher, cannon, pistol, or any other ranged weapon is a no-go (Small ranged weapons that are built into the kit itself like head vulcans are ok, however).

More clarification here:
>If the body part has a built-in ranged weapon (head/chest vulcans, claw beams, etc), then that's fine. If it's a separate part like the Alex's arm vulcans it's best to leave those off.
>Melee weapons with in-universe ranged capabilities (Like the Kimaris's lance or the Gyan's shield) are fair game too.
>Any scale and any brand is fair game here, you're not limited to just using Gundams this time around.


Send your entries to [email protected]
Start Date: 4/1
End Date: 5/31

>>15555022
Noted. I've just got to decide whether to paint the main part of the shield brown or green now.

>>15555026
If it's the dark green on the forearm, that would look pretty neat. The pistachio green would be a bit loud.

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Groupbuild wip 1/2

>>15555027
Pistachios are delicious.

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>>15555028
Groupbuild wip 2/2

Varnishing tomorrow. Directions say to let the paint dry for 2 days to prevent moisture from getting trapped underneath.

>>15555018
>Where is he going to hide? In a landfill?

Yep, where all your model kits and other works belong.

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>>15555034
>>15555028
That looks slick, dude.

>>15555027
>>15555032
Definitely the dark green. Here's a quick mock up I did with some super legit phone paint skills.

Left or right, /m/?

>>15555054
Left.

>>15555028
I like the drill bit arm a lot.

>>15555054
>>15555064
Yeah, left would look much better.

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finished my groupbuild. tried for the life of me to attempt shading, but looks like it barely shows. need to prime and redo the weapons all over again cause it came out terrible. still kept the original weapons so i can switch any time i want
fangs/melee funnels still count as melee, right?

>>15555227
Why do the bits look like cardboard?

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>>15555227

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>>15555231
terrible attempt at handpainting. need to sand and redo them

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HIZAK A CUTE


C U T E
U
T
E

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>>15555236
last one. might be able to redo the bits before the deadline, but who knows

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Get anything in the mail recently?

>>15555407
You really like ZZ?

>>15555028
So your turning space guts into original guts

I only need black, gray, and brown panel markers, right? How many will I need of each?

>>15555421
There aren't any ZZ kits there so I don't see how you can to that conclusion, retard

>>15555421
those are all mostly zeta kits dude.

>>15555437
>>15555441
>what is a joke

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>>15555461
>I WAS ONLY PRETENDING TO BE RETARDED

>>15555407
you're really gonna have a pure time

>>15555461
>>15555468

BEHOLD i AM OF SIMPLE MIND

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>My shitty Zudah made the OP picture

Wasn't expecting that when I woke up this morning.

Why is there no groupbuild post in this thread?

>>15555854
Snapfit made the thread without his trips. That is why we have no flashy thread image. (not talking about your kit btw)

>>15555555

>>15555053
His kits are better than any of the others here.
Snapbuilds are best builds.

>>15555879
>His
Fuck off snapfag and stop taking off your trip just to pretend you're someone else, your shitposting is so fucking transparent it doesn't work.

>>15555885
>Other people can't like his work so he must be replying to himself
Sad!

>>15555898
The only reason he posts pictures of his kits is because they kept deleting his spam pics that consisted of thumbnails from the previous thread and about a dozen random pics he'd taken

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Pick two.

>>15555907
4 and 5

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now that the HLJ contest is over I can actually post the kit I made.

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>>15555407
Yeah, a HG Astaroth. Easily the shittiest kit I've ever gotten. I don't even like IBO. Why did I do this?

>>15555905
You forgot before that he used to spam the same shitty pics of the couple g reco kits he had constantly every thread.

>>15555910
That's a really nice, clean paintjob on that Kampfer anon. Shame about the Bazooka seams though, but those're a pain.

I'm working on a Samus Aran custom, and I'm trying to remember what suits would work to kitbash and modify.
For the round shoulders, I can think of the AGE-1 Titus, Gyan Revive, Hi-Mock. Is there more that I missed?

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Does someone have a MG Tallgeese I here ? If you do then how do you pose it without an action base ?
I was thinking of something like pic related but the barrel don't seem to fit into the hand.

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>>15556331
Why not just shell out the extra $5-10 for a stand?

>>15556323
Jarja/ R-gyagya would be perfect

>>15556360
shipping is expensive, I'm waiting for another time when I'll buy a kit.

How long after topcoating can you start weathering? I topcoated with some tamiya TS-13 about 20 hours ago. Is that enough to start weathering?

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Been working on this Sazabi Ver. Ka for the last month or so. Just waiting on the rest of the decals to show up before I can finish it.

What HG kit(s) have the best waist /abs crunch mobility?

How can you apply shading like techniques to gunpla if you aren't painting?

>>15556439
That looks pretty damn nice anon
Not sure about the White on the shield but I love the white on everything else

>>15556439
>tfw seeing things like this make me want to learn actual gunpla building but no time, place or money to get into it
It's ok I'll keep snapbuilding, panel line and apply decals, it's still better than nothing.

>>15556451
You can't. Best you can do is this poor looking thing with weathering kits that looks like you rubbed your gunpla with charcoal.

>>15555426
Maybe

Yes

>>15556439
I love how you varied the colors, so the chest barely has and white, etc.

And that shield looks amazing.

>>15555910
Looks pretty good, mate.

>>15555053
>A kit built specifically to hunt down snap builds.

I would watch that.

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Got the cloak on, did some super light weathering, got the shield decaled and weathered. Now I wait on the Sniper rifle.

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>>15556581
And one in a slightly more dynamic pose

>>15556581
>>15556583
Keep it up, mate.

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>>15556586
Thanks dawg.

>>15556318
>>15556532

Thanks!

Yeah I'll admit I've not yet delved into the art of seamwelding. I'm building an old 1/100 Hg Tallgeese 3 EW and that is forcing me to seamweld or the kit will look like garbage.

>>15556439
Man the Sazabi does lend itself to color variation so well, doesn't it? Looks good

>>15555910

Looks good, though I seem to be allergic to brightly coloured inner frames for some reason.

>>15556631

I dearly hope you have a sandable primer. I'm just getting started seam welding and using Vallejo primer I basically have to strip the paint if the seam isn't fixed.

Can't switch to mr surfacer soon enough.

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Beautiful.

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If buy a PG Burning if they made one.

>2 to 5 weeks on delivery from Amazon due to terrorism
Being europoor is suffering

>>15555407
Got the 1/100 Tieren. Can't wait to get started on it.

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Only one week left for the Melee Groupbuild, how are you guys faring on your builds? I've gotten 6 entries so far, and based on the last one I'm willing to bet I'll get at least that much in the last few days.

>>15556762
When's the next one after this? I can't participate in this one.

>>15556727
I ordered once from amazon 2 kits, waited 4 weeks for both kits to come.
I ordered twice from HLJ, the first order came in literally 9 days, and the second 12 days.

>>15556762
I finished painting the other night and I'll be spraying a polyurethane varnish tonight. I don't know how long that takes to cure, but I plan on assembling, taking pictures, and submitting on the last day, most likely. It's raining pretty hard right now, so I may end up skipping it if my test run gets cloudy.

I planned on being completed a week ago, but I've had family, life, and a bit of depression happen and I'll be just barely scraping by, it looks like.

I don't think it'll be popular, and I messed up on a lot of things due to learning literally everything on the fly, but I'm pretty pleased with it as my first paint job and custom, and my second kit overall.

>>15556850
This is a depressing post. You'll do fine.

Anyone got pics of good hadpainted kits? All the handpainted kits I see here have this very obvious thick paint with brush marks, but I wanna see if there's something better and how it's supposed to look.

How do you guys come to kitbash in general?
Do you have a specific idea / design that needs specific pieces, or do you just start mixing and matching spare pieces / kits that you don't like much on their own?

>>15556762

Why is this giving me bionicle vibes?

>>15556762
Pushing the IBO "no waist allowed" to the limit!
But that looks pretty cool overall.

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>>15556877

Red and black is handpainted.

>>15556762

Forgot to take WIP images on my first kit since I completed it really early, and I am not very pleased with the second.
Because of that I haven't sent an entry.

>>15556909
Noice, exactly what I was looking for. What kind of paint did you use?

>>15556932

Vallejo Model color and Game color.

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>>15556769
The next one will probably start sometime in Mid-June/Beginning in July. Since there's no prizes this time around we can start brewing ideas for the next once all the entries for this one is finished.

/toy/ is doing a Frame Arms/FAG groupbuild that's going to last up to the end of August, so I don't know if doing the same thing as them is that good of an idea.

>>15556949

Just do something else than frame arms.

>>15555907
2 and 5

Total painting noob here. I'm looking to move on past stickers on my kits and start handpainting details. My question is do I have to use primer? Or do I just slap the paint on the plastic? The extent of what I want to do is as small as coloring a camera optic on a Gundam head, fill in the spaces on a Zaku tube, yellow Feddie emblems and those weird V things on their crotch etc. I assume materials I'll need are a paintbrush and appropriate paints and thinner?

>>15556949
I'd thought of suggesting doing a model inspired by your country or state. I thought it'd be interesting to see what people came up with, and it'd be like a G Gundam competition.

>>15556949
I vote for this
>>15556983

>>15556983
It'd literally be filled with murica gundams and like one or 2 kangaroos

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>>15556983

Too bad I used this idea on my first (poorly) painted kit.

>>15556978
yes you want primer, use vallejo and thin it with water, and read the guide

>>15556988
That's why I said or state. I didn't want to just assume everyone was from the US. We could ban America Gundams to encourage creativity.
Imagine a 50 state battle royale.

>>15556992
What state or country is that supposed to be?

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I gave the GM the Vidar's rifle.

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>>15557006

Here's a clue. Though I guess the blue is wrong, and using gold instead of yellow is a bit gaudy.

>>15557023
Ah. The blue is a lot darker. Looks more navy. I assumed it was just a bansgee with the gold parts painted. Still a good looking paint job.

>>15556978
For those small details, I'd say no primer. I've been doing it for a while, and I've yet to see any need. Just give the piece or part a quick wipe, with soapy water if need be to remove any oil that could hinder the paint adherence.
A little bit of paint-on varnish helps too.

>>15556983
That was a fairly popular idea when deciding the last one, but I remember several people complaining that their country sucks or that their state doesn't really have much you could make a Gundam out of. If something like that were thrown into consideration this time I'd probably do it like

>Pick a country of your choice and build a Mobile Suit inspired by it

>>15555873
The guy who makes the flashy images is banned until june.

>>15556720
https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-Action-Figure/dp/B0006N146K

For you, anon.

>half of the inner frame on the MG rezel is ABS

Well shit, I guess no lacquer allowed.

>>15557034
As long as it isn't too strict, I have no problem with using my state as inspiration. we have a lot of horse racing here, so if I'm allowed to just take the racing part I could run with that.

>>15557055
What'd he do?

>>15557030
Thanks. The guides I've read has sections for priming and painting but those seem to be for total paint jobs not these small things. For now I'm just trying to start small.

>>15557034
I do think it's fair to make a gundam inspired by another country in this case. Some states would have the same problem. They could pick another state or country if need be. I just like the idea of a G gundam style Groupbuild.

I think it'd be a nice opportunity to include some background or inspirations in your submission also.

>>15557058
Why hello there.

>>15557062
Put down primer first and you can spray lacquer on anything
Even without primer you could get away with it if you apply thin coats, most of the ABS horror stories are from people using the gundam marker panel line stuff on it which is just heavily thinned paint

>>15557058
>600% markup
Why do people think they can sell these

>>15557100
japs are the jews of the east

>>15557008
Nice

>>15557092

Aren't most good primers (tamiya, mr surfacer) also lacquer? I don't really see how it helps.

I also don't know if you can use lacquer on top of the vallejo primers, which are acrylic polyurethane. Plus, they kind of suck for anything that is in danger of any form of scratching, and aren't sandable.

I guess if you only do very thin coats the solvent barely has any time to eat into the plastic, though.

>>15556762
>I submitted a decently painted kit with nothing special added to it and no customising.
I can't wait for anons to tell me I put 0 effort into this

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I've been wanting to get into Gunpla for awhile, so I thought I would start off with my favorite mobile suit, the Guntank. This ain't my first rodeo when it comes to model making, so I was interested in getting a MG version of it. However, I have no idea what a fair price would be for it and was wondering where I would find that information out.

>>15557149
go to amiami/hobbysearch and look at the msrp/list price

>>15557149
Dalong. The pages have their Yen list price at the top of the parts overview.

>finish a kit except the misc stuff (e.g weapons)
>lose the will to finish the weapons
>want to move on to another kit
Every fucking time

>>15557112
I've used the tamiya stuff before on ABS, and it didn't do anything bad. I think primer is a little different than just lacquer paints.

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>>15557207

Yeah, maybe. I'm still afraid of painting the kit since it's transformable. I think I will put together the inner frame before painting and practice the transformation.

>>15557257
Try painting the runners if you still have some laying around. That should give you some piece of mind.

>>15557275

Thing is, chemicals like these don't necessarily "melt" the plastic, it making it somewhat brittle is a bit less obvious.

For example, when I used a tamiya enamel wash on bare plastic (stupid idea) on some fairly large scrap pieces from a 1/100 kit, there were no issues.

When I did it to an actual kit, an RG, the thin waistskirt broke when I just moved it a tiny bit.

So doing it to a runner isn't the same as doing it to a thin inner frame part on a transformable kit.

>>15557257
Doesn't topcoat prevent scratching/chipping though?

>>15557322

I'm currently using 100% acrylics including the top coat so no, not completely. In some cases because it's fragile, in some cases because there just isn't enough space, like at certain joints.

I should probably sand literally everything a tenth of a millimeter in order to make space for the paint.

Though I noticed something when I had painted the spoons in >>15555907, some of them were way more scratch resistant than the others, and it correlated with which ones were model air and which were normal model color.

The normal model color paints I thinned a lot since they come pretty thick, but they were extremely easy to scrape off with my finger nail, whereas the model air colors that I thinned only a little or not at all were way more scratch resistant, and that's like six hours after putting them on, with no primer or top coat.

So maybe there is hope if I thin my paint less or only use model air, but vallejo is still really notorious for being easily damaged.

I could maybe get better results by changing to a lacquer primer too, the vallejo one seems to suck durability wise honestly.

>>15556949
Is this for the groupbuild?

Someone misses Tsugaru a lot I see.

>>15557257
I'm seeing a Y-Wing/TIE Bomber themed ReZel just looking at that inner frame.

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>>15557359

Do you still feel it, or is the feeling gone?

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So guys, should I get the freedom 2.0 or the full armour ver. Ka?

>>15557376
Full Armor. Freedom 2.0 strays too far from the original design.

>>15557376
FAG is a lovely brick with trashbag joint covers while freedom 2.0 has the brittle hips of a senior citizen.

Retard here. How do I attach a MS Sight Lens for a MG 1/100 monoeye?

>>15557415
You mean the builders parts? If you're using that grey backing piece use regular plastic cement to glue it in place (dont glue the clear part though). If you want to glue the clear lens directly onto it use something like windowmaker/clear parts glue to prevent fogging and fucking up the clear pladtic.

>>15555024
goddamn i'm glad the end to this group build is around the corner, feels like we've been hung up on this one for like 4 months now.

>>15557457
Dude it hasn't even been 2 months. The same length as all the others.

>>15557456
Thankss m8

>>15556455
>>15556462

This is actually the first time I've tried things like preshading, masking, and metal parts.

If I can do it, you can too!

>>15557556

Where did you get your metal parts from?

>>15557055
Really? What happened?

>>15557348
>vallejo is still really notorious for being easily damaged.
Is it?

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So I need to glue this to keep it together and remove the seams, but then how the fuck do I paint it? I think the wheel part in the center is the only thing I can glue and paint without having to have it connected to another part first. There has got to be a better way to do this.

>>15557628

Yes. Google "vallejo durability".

Note to self: never start 2 Master Grades at one time, because you'll have a bad time.

>>15557633
>Vallejo durability

Alright anons, gather round and screencap this damn post.

So I tried Vallejo paints with their own thinner and it was very much garbage durability, but the following just cemented how bad it was.

I airbrushed some pieces using model air and regular model color thinned down with the kitchen recipe airbrush thinner down at Genesis Models. Tamiya primer was underneath.

I set aside these pieces aside for a few months, thinking it would cure better because the thinner recipe not only had liquitex medium in it, but that said medium had liquitex's acrylic resin in it.

Man, was I wrong.

I lightly scratched one piece with the back of my fingernail and the paint came right off. I took another piece and brushed it against the damned styrofoam I stuck bbq skewers into.

Much of the paint came off. Holy shit. And this is styrofoam, guys!

I can't wrap my head around how the military modelers manage to get a good experience with Vallejo paints, even before it's sealed in.

>>15557651
The Vallejo paint I sprayed last night and hasn't cured is more durable than what you're saying it is.

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>>15557637
>mfw I have a little over 40 MGs waiting to be painted because I just used to snapfit
>was thinking about doing more than one at a time to speed up completion

>>15557348
>>15557628
>>15557633
>>15557651

As long as you wait patiently for the paint to dry, and hit it with a good gloss coat, it should be fine.

>>15556439
how well does that spray booth take care of lacquer fumes?

>>15557666

As said in >>15557348 I think part of my problem is having thinned it too much as there seems to be an absolutely drastic difference in durability on the spoons I did. I will have to experiment a little more tomorrow.

I'm still switching away from their primer though. At least according to the internet, it's not sandable no matter how long you wait for it to dry/cure.

>>15557666
Let's see, if that's Vallejo you speak of, it's doubtful that it's their in-brand gloss coat? So Aqua Gloss or W&N Galeria?

>>15557651
Here's hoping the Vallejo Mecha Color paint coming out in June is better. If not then I'm switching to something else.

>>15557677

My Gouf Custom was done primarily with vallejo. I used Vallejo grey primer, and the rest with the model air colors. I remember adding a few drops of tamiya x-20 thinner and it worked pretty well. I waited a good 24 hours for the primer to fully dry, maybe that's the trick.

Are there any good metallic sprays? Especially golds, blues, and reds? Ill settle for a good chrome that can be painted over also.
I don't have a good setup for an airbrush right now.

Should i buy Dragon Deathscythe TV?

>>15557678

I forgot to mention I used future floor polish for the gloss and tamiya matte for the final topcoat

>>15557679

Good thing it can be sent by airmail and will probably be sold by HLJ, as I highly doubt it will be available in Europe anytime soon.

>>15557681

I've been thinking that maybe I just haven't given it enough time between coats, I have at least been going from priming to basecoating or from basecoating to glosscoating way too quickly I think.

How long do you wait after the final top coat with assemblying? The guide says up to a week for acrylics to cure while the vallejo website says maximum durability is achieved after 48 hours.

>>15557687

I see, I have heard many good things about Future. Have only found their cleaner in stores so far, but I have also read that it will yellow over time so maybe it's for the best.

And do you mean tamiya in a spray can? Then it makes sense, the final layer is lacquer rather than acrylic.

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Have an MG ReZEL. About to get MG Nu Gundam Ver Ka. Is it gonna be good? Any problems I should look out for?

What UC MG should I get on my next paycheck? I'm thinking about Jesta-kun since he's niggas with ReZEL, but ReZEL longs for Zeta-sempai.

>>15557703
Well I was pretty busy with work at the time, so I would only work on the Gouf on my off days which would usually be a few days apart, so that might have helped.

>>15557703
I have had luck finding it at Kmarts. You want to look for the 2X more shine on the bottle. Thats the one.

>>15557699
They're based in Spain, so I'm sure you can get it in Europe.

>>15557681
>My Gouf Custom was done primarily with vallejo. I used Vallejo grey primer, and the rest with the model air colors. I remember adding a few drops of tamiya x-20 thinner and it worked pretty well. I waited a good 24 hours for the primer to fully dry, maybe that's the trick.


How well does it stand up to parts rubbing/scratching?

>>15557759

There's a few scratches that I think I might have done personally out of negligence. Otherwise, its solid

>>15557794
So it takes well to reposing?

Yeah I have X-20A thinner, hope this thing works out. Do you think it will have similar results with Tamiya primer, or is sticking to Vallejo primer absolutely required?

>>15557759
What topcoat did you use, if any?

>>15556439
While we're on the topic, what paint did you use? My skill isn't anywhere near yours but those colors are vibrant and smooth. And that shading looks tight.

Can anyone post an example of a model that has panel lines done by a mechanical pencil? I won't be getting Gundam markers any time soon, but I want to try panel lining.

>>15557759
>I remember adding a few drops of tamiya x-20 thinner and it worked pretty well

For both primer and paint? Just the X-20A?

>>15557679
>Here's hoping the Vallejo Mecha Color paint coming out in June is better. If not then I'm switching to something else.

Scratch tests, here we come!

But if Mecha Color is a dud, at least we still have Tamiya, and then Mission Models' upcoming aircraft and automotive color lines. The latter seems to be a lot like Createx Auto-Air, but more airbrushable for models.

Auto-Air for models seems pretty awful from reviews, because it has to be thinned down to near-wash consistency to be airbrushable.

Who wins? Vallejo or Tamiya?

>>15557807

Tamiya primer is lacquer based I believe so it might be more durable.

>>15555907
what kit for

>>15557685
ANY FUCKING ONE?

>>15557925
So I dun goofed with that kitchen brew airbrush thinner recipe, and not sealing in the paint layer?

>>15557942
yes

then shove it up your ass

>>15556583
not much of a cloak fan, but damn that is nice

>Vallejo primer

Was the reason why the Vallejo primer held up against an Alclad paint coat was because the paint was misted on, in this thread?

www.britmodeller. com/forums/ index.php?/topic/234994943-vallejo-metal-color-vs-alclad-test/

>>15557903
>we still have Tamiya
I'm really not sold on lacquers. I really don't have the kind of space I where can spray toxic fumes everywhere all the time.

I'm considering just biting the bullet and trying to use a lacquer topcoat over acrylic to see if that protects it better.

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Any of you guys have this spray booth? Considering getting it because all the other alternatives are either batshit expensive or small chink shit. I think I'm going to get raped on the shipping if I go for it though.

>>15557705
You should probably spend your paycheck on english lessons so you don't type like a complete penismonger ever again.

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So, I'm almost done my first painted gunpla, just a few more bits and bobs to go. I'm using it as a test bed to try out various stuff, like hand painted detailing, distressing, and when I get around to it, weathering.

I just need a recommendation of a durable topcoat, that can withstand some pretty tight plastic on plastic rubbing, as the model in question, is a 1/144 GM, and the skirt scrapes pretty heavily on the very upper most part of the legs.

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>>15558024
Might as well post legs too

>>15558024
>>15558031

Looks good. I would add a few rust spots and some grime streaks as well

So I figured out that the cheapest Guntank is on AmiAmi, but now I have to pick how I want it shipped. Which of these options would give me the best bang for my buck? EMS, DHL, Air Small Packet, or SAL.

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>>15558024
>>15558031
Brother!
Mine's shit though

>>15558077
Read the fucking guide

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>>15558084

Wow what great contribution

>>15558181
Whoa damn.

>>15558181
is that Halo?

>>15558065
Soon, I'm gonna add rust effect with crushed red charcoal

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Spiegel God? Shadow God gundam?

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>>15558181
Together they fight crime

>>15558347
Spiegel God

>>15558199
Yeah. Some Halo 3 poster from a strategy guide, I think.

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Gonna use bits of the Kimaris shoulders as leg armor

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>>15558079
wtf is this...

>>15558024
Dulux or rust oleum gloss coat are virtually scratch proof after drying

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Trying to get rid of this stuff, green dots are reserved (blue dots are possibly reserved) by:

>W. Edge:
>Tallgeese III, E
Hasn't emailed me back, so those might still be available. If you want to be 2nd in line let me know.

>E. May Mays (France):
>Altron, Amazing Booster, Fenice

>G M (US) :
>K9, A, Shot Small

>Daniel S. (UK):
>G-Gundam

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>>15558771
I should note that the Zaku I has its head and chest plate, but they are going to need some repairing.

If you're just a snap fag, it still comes with a ton of weapons, and I'll throw in some 1/144 Zaku water slides (not new but there's still a lot of decals left I didn't use)

>>15557651
I have no issues with Vallejo at all. It's durable for me and I just use the model color line with their own thinner.

>>15557699
Vallejo is from Spain anon

>>15557714

Sadly I'm not american.

>>15557930

Helmwige reincar.

>>15557737
>>15558830

Yeah but gunpla is essentially nonexistant here, I'm pretty sure the line is aimed at gunpla.

>>15558827

What primer and top coat do you use, also vallejo? How long do you wait for everything to cure?

>>15558827
You see anon, that vallejo has to pass the scratch test. Does it hold up to being scratched, and if so, how hard/how soft?

It's an approximation of the posing your gunpla and the paint job holding up to some parts rubbing.

So does it pass the scratch test?

Going to do some highly unscientific testing as I noticed that the model colors I thinned a lot were super weak on the spoons, so I sprayed one of the thinner model colors (bright orange) without thinning it at all.

I'll give it the same amount of time as the others and see how easily scratched it is.

>>15559034
I've been scratching at my a spoon with primer for a while now and nothing much has happened. I've had this spoon lying about for like half a year, too.

>>15558827
Same here.

>>15558907
Not him but I give it a couple of days to cure before handling it much. And I typically use tamiya or mr.hobby primers.

>>15558827
>>15559296

Model color, model air or both?

My current theory is that the regular model color is more fragile than air when thinned to airbrushable levels, which would explain some of my issues as I mainly had a library of the regular model color after hand painting quite a bit. And yes, I did use the airbrush thinner.

I want to buy the EW Epyon 1/100 but it's like £50 where I live, I can get the knock off dragon momoko figure for about half that though

worth or nay worth? does anyone know what improvements the DM has, if any/

>>15559325
Model color.

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So this is my third kit. Just wondering if the grubbiness is appealing at all and if I should tone it down at all. Please send me your thoughts and opinions.

>>15559408
Did you accidentally drop it in a puddle or something

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>>15559408
Woops

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Anyone ever done anything to improve articulation on the old G Gundam master grades? I'm thinking of trying something to increase the ROM for the legs and shoulders, but I'm not sure how to go about doing that.

If anyone else has done it, I'd be appreciative of some advice.

Have a cool kitbash in return.

>>15559429
In the sewer, actually. But if you have any suggestions as to how I can make it look better, I'm open to them.

>>15559438
Have you tried washing the dirt off?

>>15559438
use toothpick to clean up the dirt on the lines and details while you dip it in clean water

>>15559445
So make it into a clean build?

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Here is my attempt at a Zaku Sniper so far. The lower legs look like shit, unfortunately. Going to move on the the arms next. Also, my dumb ass lost the rabbit-ear antenna on the head, so I'll have to think about how to make a replacement one. Any suggestions?

>>15559454
At least tone it down. With weathering, "less is more", i.e. less weathering looks better and more realistic, unless your idea for a kit was to make it look like it spent a couple of decades in a landfill

>>15559483
No, just one decade. After I tone it down, what top coat would you recommend?

>>15559480
>dem seamlines though

>>15559486
In hindsight, I should have gone with glue after all instead of leaving it at lolsnapfit.

>>15559487
liquid cement is cheap and it removes seamlines. Also great for fixing broken parts.

>>15559485
I generally use Tamiya TS-80, though lacquer top coats like the TS-80 has been known to cause Gundam Markers and pastel weathering to run, so if you used any of those, test it out first

>>15559400

Guess it might just be a matter of patience and primer then, though I still find it odd that model air is seemingly much stronger on my spoons. Maybe it just cures faster.

By the way, how long does a 40ml jar of the mr hobby primer last? On one hand it's a small jar but on the other hand I think you're supposed to thin it quite a bit?

petitgguy kits are better than IBO stuff, how many did you guys buy?

>>15558077
I recently bought a Sahelanthropus from amiami and i pick sal parcel (somewhat expensive than regular SAL and cheaper than EMS) and got my package in 3 weeks (shipped may 8th, received yesterday) Aniway it depends on how much you can wait for your kits.
DHL is expensive as fuck

>>15559522
>small

its like 2 times bigger than normal mr.color jars, and yeag it lasts a long time and you need to thin it quite a bit to use it properly.

>>15559651

Well, coming from the 200ml vallejo primer bottle I currently have it is small, though that primer I only thin a little bit. Good to hear that it lasts a long while, I bought two jars just to be safe.

>>15557705
>MG Nu Ver. Ka
>shit proportions
>touching anything katoki
hard pass.

>>15557705
Zeta and the Rezel never operated in the same time frame, almost like a 20 year gap between deployment dates (the Nu was deployed like 3 years prior to the rezel but it was obviously destroyed during axis shock). The Jesta and rezel would have also seen little to no combat together since Jestas were designed to be the Unicorn's wingmen.
tldr; get a delta plus

>>15559839
>recommending MG Delta Plus
you are a terrible person.

>>15559857

Nothing wrong with it as long as he gets an action base.

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Decided to go back to painting a gouf custom after not having done much in about a year. I wanted to paint it with a custom color scheme and fucked it all up. Is there any good crimson spray paint I should look out for? I was just going to buy a new kit because they are like $15 on amazon and all the paint I find is either pretty dubious or a glossy and I am looking for something matt. Im pissed because this is the only piece that has even been painted aside from some of the hands and other details which are still good. The 5 pieces cirlced in green are the ones I just did last night everything else was done before aside from some of the gold. I don't understand how the paint ended up so thick when I did it pretty light and also it took way longer to dry than I remember. I should have fucking looked into this shit before trying any of this out.

>>15559970
Krylon is pretty easily available, as I understand.

>>15559970
>Painting on the runner
S T O P

>>15559970
Speaking of painting on the runner like an idiot, does anybody know some rx-78 kits that are on one runner that you sometimes see all painted up and mounted on the wall? I've always thought it was a cool idea and would like to try it once.

>>15559970
I'm clueless about painting and even I know it's fucking retarded to paint on a runner.

>>15559970
>Gundam marker
I'm gonna tell you right now son, that gold marker you used is going to fade in a couple of days. I made the same mistake with my first MG, Strike Freedom FBM for the mustard gold parts. JUST DON'T.
At the very least you should spraycan it. And DON'T do it on the runner.

>>15559970
Only time painting on a runner is okay if it's under-gated, even then that is still questionable. Though Plating is the exception to that.

So I ordered some mr surfacer 1200 and the leveling thinner.
How much should I thin it?
Can I mix it in the cup or is that asking for trouble?
PSI/distance/how thick or thin layers?

>>15560030
most of the gold was from when I first started painting it about a year ago but then forgot about it, so far it has held up.

>>15559970
The best possible spray paint commendation, is not using spray paint. Either learn to do it by hand or shell out for a air brush

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>>15560017
Saw one on imgur that a guy made as a gift. Looks like they just assemble some of the major sections of a kit and then build a runner to fit everything on. A lot of glueing and cementing is involved iirc.

Edit:
Found it
https://imgur.com/gallery/5DMRm

>>15560094
Oh yeah, guess that makes sense. Maybe I'll look into doing it at some point, it seems kind of fun.

>>15560102
Same. I thought it looked pretty cool. It's make a cool display piece, and it'd be fun to do with a completed HG or something.

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>>15560087
too late for that senpai

>>15560172
>Still painting on the runner

STOP
T
O
P

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>>15560172
>Painting parts on runners
Get a load of this stupid mother fucker.

Enjoy screwing yourself over.

>>15560030
>that gold marker you used is going to fade in a couple of days
The fuck are you talking about? I use gold marker on my kits and they've been fine for over a year now with no fading.

Unless you're talking about fading from joint parts due to scratching or parts that disconnect/connect a lot like a sword being inserted and removed from it's sheath often?

>>15560196
getting a new one anyway so why not make it look like garbage

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Can someone help me with pic related? How was this done? Aren't those wing parts supposed to be blue?

I've never tried clear painting an already clear colored part but I heard it's notoriously hard to recolor. Almost impossible. Clear blue parts and clear red paint might make it clear purple kinda... but orange?

>>15560225
recast with clear resin
paint orange

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>>15560046
>>15560202
That's really weird, because that shit happened to mine. It became a lot less lustrous than it was. And no scratching or anything like that, since I left the kit in the same pose after posing. I used the gold in this set. Maybe you guys used something different?

>>15560208
>the rich people excuse
Great way to waste money. But hey, what do I know.

I'm smart with my money.

>>15560228
That doesn't look recast. It's too transparent. Don't clear resin recasts look more translucent/smokier than that?

>>15560225
I'd like to know too.

>>15560230
my gold is GM04
>>15560230
it is $15, Chad Warden wipes his ass with $15

>>15560230
>Maybe you guys used something different?
I used the metallic gold from the Metallic Astray Set.

I don't like painting my kits in a way that don't make them look metallic. If I wanted something to look like rubber or plastic, I'd just not paint them at all or buy robot spirits instead of actually buying model kits...

>>15560238
>>15560239
So then, I retract what I said before and will now say, stay the fuck away from the SEED Destiny Gold, because it sucks and will fade.

As a matter of fact, for newbies, just stay the fuck away from Gundam Markers. Even spray cans are better than that shit. You'll thank yourself later as you advance in skill.

>>15560250
>stay the fuck away from the SEED Destiny Gold, because it sucks and will fade
As I said before here in this post: >>15560202
The kits I painted with said Astray Metallic Gold marker are fine. And has been fine for over a year now. No fade, and I did not topcoat either. I don't know why yours did.

>Even spray cans are better than that
This though I have to agree with. The markers are pretty good for touch up and painting parts that aren't too big, but those tamiya spray cans are still a lot better.

>Really like the Zaku II RG's inner frame more than the MGs
>Also like the details on the RG more than the MG
I wonder if Bandai is going to make a Zaku II 3.0 that's basically an upscaled RG like they did with the RX-78-2

>>15560261
>The markers are pretty good for touch up and painting parts that aren't too big, but those tamiya spray cans are still a lot better.
I wouldn't even recommend for touch up honestly. Get a fine paintbrush for detailing, thin some enamels a bit and practice. I can sympathize with a lot of newbies that are scared of fucking up their kits because I was petrified, and I actually did fuck up my first full kit. But you never get better when you stick to those crap markers. When you're just detailing, fixing your fuck ups on bare plastic is very easy and serves as a great easing in.

>>15556581
Nice job anon.
Cloaks/capes on giant robots are the dumbest thing but also the coolest at the same time.

>>15560280

I agree, though I would use acrylics like vallejo. Partially because enamels on bare plastic isn't the best idea in the world from a chemical standpoint.

>>15560391
Thanks. That's how I felt the whole time I was doing it.
"Who would actually think putting a cape on a robot serves a purpose?" Vs. "Giant robots with capes are the dopest shit."
The epitome of cognitive dissonance

>>15560391
Well long as they justify it somehow like Crossbone Gundams cape being completed dyed in beam resistant solution it works and looks awesome/

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>>15560417
>>15560391
Forgot pic>>15560396

And yeah, even the vaguest excuse makes it completely legitimate in my mind.

>paint groupbuild in Vallejo
>all test pieces have rubbed paint off at joints
>lose all desire to paint again

Well, fuck. I really don't want to work with toxic fumes and particles everywhere.

>>15560425
Submit it anyway. Pretend they're chemical stains or something.

Can I get away with hand painting small details on bare plastic with tamiya acyrlic? I just want to paint the crest on the crotch plate of my rx-78-2. Concerned yellow paint on red bare plastic is going to cause some problems. Never tried it on top of darker colors.

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Bought some kits today to celebrate the end of the semester. I was surprised to find the cgue for $16 since every time I try to look it up online, the only sites that would have it in stock would list it for like $50.

Not sure how excited I should be to build it though since I've heard pretty bad things about seed kits.

>>15560700
>seed kits
the original seed kits (non-HGCE Revives) & their "Remaster" had shit articulation, proportions & color separation. I speak from experience but only regarding the mains. I don't know diddly squat about the Zaku expys since I'm not a fan of Zaft grunts.

>>15560700
Seed/Destiny kits and most of the Seed MSV kits are kinda bad articulation wise. The Stargazer kits for the gundams are a bit of a middleground between Seed HGs and 00 HGs in terms of articulation. The M1 Astray and the other Astrays put out during the Seed remaster are good kits as well. The ones in the HGCE line are good too obviously due to being part of the All Gundam Project thing.

If you don't mind doing some modding you can grab a pack of Ballden arms and follow this guide.

http://dqfg.blogspot.com/2015/08/how-o-use-hgbc-balden-arm-arms-to-add.html

>>15560790
Guess that just confirms what I've heard. Guess even if it has shit articulation, it can at least stand there and look cool.
>>15560863
>Sorry, the page you were looking for in this blog does not exist.

Are you seeing that too, or is it just me?
Damn shame though, I'd have loved a way to get better articulation, even if I don't have experience with modding. There's always a first time for everything.

>>15560875
Nevermind that last bit, I found it from just going to the home page and digging around a bit. Thanks for letting me know about this, anon.

>>15560425
>>15560434
Judging from people's anecdotes, Vallejo paint can tolerate handling only if you're using Model Air, if you're using Vallejo primer, and your underlayer (either the plastic or some other primer layer) has some tooth to it.

Some guy said Mr. Surfacer 500 or Duplicolor Primer gives enough tooth, but Tamiya primer is too fine and smooth for Vallejo stuff to cling to.

>>15560434
If I can't find a solution I'm just going to quit painting.

>>15560880
It's just where the joints rub on elbows/knees and probably ball joints, though I haven't confirmed this.

I'm considering using a lacquer topcoat over it and hoping that has enough strength.

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I might be over doing it on the gold.

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>>15560944

>>15560944
Paint the swords silver to contrast.

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How's the HG Psycho Gundam? I've been meaning to pick it up but I wouldn't want pay MG price if it wasn't worth it. Is the actual model good or is it mostly just worth it for the novelty of being huge?

>>15560944
I like it.

>>15560944
The gray frame makes the gold not only acceptable, but very nice.

>>15560900

>It's just where the joints rub on elbows/knees and probably ball joints

To be expected. Though before painting it's ideal to sand the contact points to account for more space where the paint layers will add up.

>I'm considering using a lacquer topcoat over it and hoping that has enough strength.

Lacquer.

It's gonna eat the acrylic, and Vallejo isn't that chemically resilient.

>>15561074
>sand the contact points
I have no clue how to do that and make it look nice on most pieces. Also I still want the joints to be stiff so they can hold their own weight.

>It's gonna eat the acrylic
I remember someone saying that light coats are okay as they dry fast enough to not liquefy the paint underneath.

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>>15560944
Do not cry for me brothers

>>15561097
He's just sleeping.

>>15561097
He's just being depressed that Vaul took his favorite clothes.

So the only thing new about the MG XN Raiser is that it has those two bigass swords right?

>>15560944
Alejandro would be proud.

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Painting a Zaku Tank this weekend but I can't decide on a color scheme for the life of me. Which sounds best?

>The regular Tan/Black colorscheme
>Zaku two-tone green
>Dark green/Grey

I'm willing to take suggestions too.

>>15561520
I think Dark Green and Grey sounds good, but what's the plan when it comes to application?

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>>15560944
Nah, grimgerde was made for gold. Now paint the visor blue.

>>15561520
>>15561523
I agree, dark green and gray sounds good.

>>15561526
usb deskman is that you?

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>>15561034
I have it and I love it. The only problem you'll have to contend with is the near-unforgivable seam line down the sides of the torso due to the transformation function, but then again, it might just be that I'm an idiot at screws. Yes the kit has screws. Also, yes its huge... And I love it. Currently turning mine into a megazord. No regrets

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>>15561523
>>15561527
I was thinking something along the lines of this.

>>15561538
God damn phone-flipping horsehockey

>>15561526
Still wish there was a 1/100 helmwige to paint gold or silver, so it can be an elaborate knife holder.

>>15561553
fuck

>>15561537
Yes?

>>15561544
I'm a fan. I trust you'd do some of the smaller details in that grey to break up the larger planes of green?

Also, forgive me for changing the subject, but I sent my groupbuild entry to the groupbuild email today. Now I'm paranoid that somehow it didn't reach you due to my own ignorance. Have you recieved an entry named "Killer Kabuto"?

>>15561553
It had to have been designed to be able to do that on purpose. There is no way that's a coincidence.

>>15561559
Yeah that's just a quick 2-second coloring in Photoshop and not really the final colorscheme I want to go with. That's also an old photo since I've gone and added some builders parts and leftover tank bits for detail.

And yes I got your entry. I could use some separate pics that you used for your collage though.

>>15561566
Whew, good to know. Thanks man. And yeah I can get you the separated pics no prob.

>>15561481
As far as I can tell, yes.

>>15561481
It has the XN unit.

That's why it's called the XN Raiser.

>>15559393
DM's early releases are decidedly unimpressive. I wouldn't recommend it unless you're up for a much more frustrating than usual build.

As for what's different, I think they include a clear orange version of the whip? That's about it.

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>>15560017
>>15560094

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>>15561889
Anon was right. Eeloominatty confirmed.

>>15561914
Fucking nice.

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>HLJ contest winners announced.

This guy got robbed. He easily deserved first place rather than second in the advanced category.

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>>15559480
>>15559486

It looks nice though! I like the different colored shoulder. It's actually a pretty old kit they basically added a few parts for and reboxed for unicorn, it could use an update. I really want to work on mine this weekend but fml work is killing me

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>>15561967

I mean just look at this shit.

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>>15561967
>>15561969

absolutely

>>15557836
Found it myself. It was pretty tough since it's rare for poeple to do it this way. Posting here in the unlikely event someone wants to use mechanical pencils for panel lining too.

http://www.mech9.com/2010/10/160-gn-001-gundam-exia-build-part-xi.html?m=1

>>15561967
>>15561969
post the 1st place winner

>Loving my Nu Ver.Ka
>Only thing I hate so far is the neck

It looks so weird

>>15561675
>Break glass in case of emergency

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>>15561989
If your having trouble telling what it is, its a pg norn and hmm shield liger. Its okay, but the other clearly had a higher level of skill put into it.

>>15561997
Oh, and a mg ball.

>>15561997
that looks pretty ass tbqh

>>15561538
>Currently turning mine into a megazord.
>a MEGAZORD.
>No regrets
'Atta boy.

>>15561997
I really think that the builder tried to do too much. The idea of one mech abandoned in the wilderness somewhere and overgrown with foliage is cool, but three? All fairly intact in terms of their main bodies and armaments? And left abandoned in that sort of arrangement -- what kind of reasoning would you have to leave the Banshee and the Liger standing at full height? Why are they all in a line? What's the story behind it all?

It's cluttered and detracts from the overall diorama.

>>15561481
>>15561580
>ITT: supposed "experienced" gunpla motherfuckers who don't even know what the fuck the "XN Raiser" is.

>>15561997
The chains are dumb

>>15561991
>unironically loving the Nu Ver.Ka
>only thing he hates so far is the neck
>"It looks so weird"
As oppsed to every other shit part of that katokified crap?

>shit proportions
>long disproportionate oversized "katoki" legs
>small fucking torso
>gangly arms
It's like you're blind AND have shit taste.

>>15561997
>>15561967
>>15562004
>>15562019
>expecting judges who promote "clusterfuck garbage instead of uniquely designed customs that had more effort and work put into them" to actually have good taste
It's like you guys are just begging to be disappointed...

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Anyone used mica red tamiya paint? I'm working on a God Gundam, and I wanted to repaint the red parts to be a little darker. I cant find a good picture of the mica on google.

>>15562039
Calm down

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>CuteCube Woundwort
Anyone here know if this thing transforms or if the gun turns into a giant hand?

Because a 1/100 Woundwort that doesn't transform is absolute piece of shit garbage and doesn't even deserve to be called "TR-6 Woundwort".

>>15562084
It transforms, but it uses minor partsforming because nobody is sure how that transformation is supposed to work.

The gun doesn't seem to transform, but the crotch does have the subarm.