Gunpla / Plamo General
***READ THE GUIDE***
***READ THE GUIDE***
For those new to gunpla/plamo or even just new to this thread; please read the guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model". If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!
>Why won't anyone answer my question?
Try being specific, especially about your materials and process. Post pictures whenever possible; even if the kit/part looks bad, you are more likely to get help posting pictures.
A guide to other types of plamo:
Kawaguchi Gunpla tips:
http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1 AND http://gundma.imgur.com/
Another gunpla guide:
January Restock: http://pastebin.com/cGZkTqai
Old Thread >>13807836
Our next Group Build!
Basically what this means is that rather than the mobile suit being fresh out of a factory, it's quite the opposite. Whether it's trudging through dense jungles or dodging debris in asteroid belts, your mobile suit has seen some better days.
You've been out in the field for quite a long time now, nearly half a year of active duty in the front lines and your personal mobile suit's pretty banged up. What's worse is the fact that there isn't a maintenance bay within several thousand kilometers of your local area that's capable of making any major repairs. Your unit's engineering crew has resorted to patch work and jury-rigging to keep your machine operational. Stray fire might have crippled its legs and arms or otherwise dealt considerable damage to a mobile suit's systems meanwhile some units have simply lost bits of armor and panels to the elements and have been forced to patch weld metal sheets over the exposed inner workings.
In any case it's beaten to hell but somehow you and your team have somehow kept it chugging along and now command's ordered all units operating in your theatre to fall back to form a defensive line against the enemy offensive.
Deadline: March 7
Send submissions to: firstname.lastname@example.org
I second this.
but this thing is weird
It's fun building something that's that intricate. I plan to make >>13816174
my first MG purchase. I just hope that the cannons and that lol-Tastic rifle are the only problems from that kit.
I like hydraulic gimmicks of MG Zaku 2.0.
Also Origin HG head proportions look weird on photos (too smal? too long?) but I will pick one anyway for custom painting.
Zudah is love!
>slim build (unusual for Zeon) but still lokks intimidating
>different head options
>lots of weapons
Started my Crossbone X1.
going to wait to top coat before going further.
i want to paint the weapons accurately but i most are molded into one piece so i cant spray them, and dont have a air brush. so i might have to try hand paints.
Don't worry, after the P-Bandai MG normal Red Frame (announced right after I bought the stupid giant bow version) nothing surprise me anymore
I'd consider buying the BF one if it hadn't that stupid gloss
Fun guide on how to make home-made propellant tanks
>Still no sign of G-Reco movie.
Dahack without the Trinity just feels like it's missing a part of itself.
Anyone know if this will work as an alternative to mr super clear? I can't get my hands on mr super clear so it is either this or no matt spray at all
I hope the cannon can deploy without that top part opening. It's weird.
Maybe you'll like it once you build it.
Building the HG revive myself, got to mask and paint those red lines. I really like the wings and how the cannon deploy. (got and sold a RD, since I felt the face is weird)
That's extremely cool and I feel some shame admitting I'm probably never going to do it. It looks like a shitload of work (mostly the construction of the little kebab spinner) for something I might not do that often. But who knows, maybe one day.
The "Big Is Justice" on the cover at the bottom was worth the link alone though.
My delta plus custom job so far .. Ignore the red the camera makes it look super cakey. Anyone hate it?
a brush will be fine, you just need a steady hand
Speaking of crossbone, this thing, is it real? Does an hg of this beauty exist?
well, there aren't many crossbone kits out there in the first place and you know bandai hates late UC, so I don't really thing the ghost will ever have a kit
latest bit of modding kit arrived today, 3mm side glow fiber optic cable
The next Super Minipla set after the Xabungle set is Ideon. Not sure why Ideon isn't an SRC but I'll take a good ~6 inch Ideon to throw in with my other robots.
Could someone with both the Mega Shiki and either of the Revive Mk IIs throw the Mk II shoulders and lower legs onto the Mega Shiki?
I've been mulling with the idea of making a Zero Shiki for a while now and I'm gonna go with the Amuro version since I've experimented with the old HGUC Rick Dias and the proportions of the backpack binders and shoulders look awful on the Shiki.
Hey. HEY! Step off!
Stay away from all testors/model master stuff
it is all shit
Their bottle enamel isnt that bad for details but the rest is awful
general rule of thumb you can never go wrong with Tamiya stuff.
I do. It's not bad, but the long gun is a bit fragile when posing so be careful not to stress it. It's a little sticker heavy, but some minor white paint applications go a long way.
have you ever tried it yourself?
I have used Testors on some of my kits and as long as you do it right, I've found the result is pretty nice, pic related is my jesta cannon that I used Testors matte coat on. Looks good to me. I do prefer Mr. Color though, but sometimes it's not available, while it is a better product, I wouldn't consider Testors shit.
didnt realize it until I was looking on dalong and im probably late but the hands of the end gundam seem like heavily modified parts of one of the thrones in 00 gundams skirts. I didnt even think about it considering the suit seems mostly inspired from deathscythe hell. Part of its definitely because I missed most of 00 but whod think to take it from skirt mounted weapons.
Their paints are crap
Their glue is too invasive
All of their putty is junk that flakes and shrinks
All the other stuff they make is worthless
You may be satisfied with inferior results but I only accept a higher degree of quality
not my fault zakus faces are perpetually stuck in duck face mode for sucking off too many ReZels
I think I might need to go back and strip the paint off the hair and repaint it. Tamiya paints just goes on too thick. The rest of the body is done in model master.
whats a good pair of cutters
im using some junk from homo depot it aint cutting it (no pun intended)
>conclude that all x brand items are inferior
>no supporting evidence, just more claims
>if you dont agree, you must like shit quality
I honestly believe, with no reservations in my heart, that the products on the left are just as good as the product on the right.
Different guy here. As a long time Tamiya user, I honestly believe, with no reservation in my heart, that Tamiya acrylic paints are shit compared to testors/model master. In terms of acrylics, model master > testors > Tamiya.
>shitting on testors
Get your feddie ass back to /toy/'s hugbox
Getting a fancy pair of cutters won't automatically make your builds any better, you still need to sand down or slice the nubs if you want to avoid stress marks/discoloration. The only reason you'd want to get a n expensive nipper is to cut closer to the part on the runner and honestly you'd be better off investing in better sanding equipment.
I did this whole kit with model masters except for the gold, I don't think the materials are the problem
Ya'll realize that's all shitposter-kun, right? It's not even new schtick, it's the same old tired-ass stuff.
This is MY forum. You will play by MY rules.
>How to deal with tripfags
>not one single post is a tripfag
In my experiance testors square bottle paints are garbage, as is their putty. Their glues are fine although I prefer tamiya extra thin for most things. Model masters acryl is decent for handbrushing but doesn't airbrush as nicely as tamiya. Never used their airbrush paints or nippers, but their brushes and knives aren't worth the price.
That's just my 2 cents though.
I told myself I already have a shinki if all I wanted was a cute poseable robot girl figure.
I was wrong.
Now I have to wait for Architect's normal release to get another dose of cute robot girls.
>Not wanting cute waifu for your frame arms.
Jinrai, a gourai varient. Uses the materia body and is more melee oriented. No release date yet iirc but it's coming after the architect and there are painted prototype pics out.
At wonfess they are also going to reveal some more FAG and the busou shinki strarf.
And if you like little robot girls then desk top army figures are coming in July for relatively cheap.
Why would you want more than one? She is cute, sure. But there will be other opportunities.
I've missed Architect pre-order and only got Gourai/Stylet/Materia. Probably going to stop here, girl designs are not varied enough.
Well, they're cute, they get sold out fast and with no reprints, and I might mess up on one, and I do like having more than one, make some cute/funny things with them. I got pre-ordered 3 of the white ver to be sure, but sadly can't get another Archi.
I want multiple materia for the more articulated body and basic limbs for head/limb swapping. I'm hoping that since it's a basic body they eventually make more of them. It's baffling how they haven't put any back into production based on how stupidly well they are selling.
Anyone here have the MG RX-78-5? Reviews on it are all vague as shit. How good is it?
sorry that took so long, Also sorry for the grainy ass pics.
with 0.1mm wire you can put leds pretty much wherever you want.
This is the sazabi kit I'd be fitting it on, after a zaku test run of course
Has anyone ever spent a bunch of time planning out an increasingly complicated idea or workaround for a kit only to have an epiphany at a random moment while doing something completely unrelated to modeling? And it's an extremely simple and effective method to resolve your original idea? And then you feel really stupid for not thinking of something so obvious sooner?
I don't know if it's the photo but that kit looks like shit and I don't think it's even your fault this time. Square blocky skirts and leg thrusters, a lumpen torso that matches none of the rest of the suit and shoulder launchers from a Zeon suit. Fuck me I can't get over how awful those skirts are.
I believe that because my nu is so left-heavy it leans to that side when it's on an action base. I really don't like it. Then my Jegan has a special part engineered just for that purpose, so it doesn't lean.
Here is the old lineart if you want to see what it was originally intended to look like. It's just Nu with a bunch of extra armor slapped on top.
Kind of. The HGUC Nu is actually a really nice kit all things considered. It actually has some inner frame, it's got a surprising amount of detail when you actually look (The joints, under the skirts and certain armor panels), the shoulder armor is a separate piece on a hinge that the shoulder peg goes through that at the time was mostly on MG, actual pegs on the hands to hold weapons in place, every funnel is individual and has an ingenious mechanism for attaching to each other, uniquely molded beam saber blades, and pretty much every accessory for the Nu you could want save for the stolen geara doga rifle.
Basically it was as nice as they could possibly make an HG at the time (All the CCA HGUC were like this too, really insanely nice HG for their time) that also tried bringing a couple of MG features down to the HG line.
That said hip and thigh swivels would be much appreciated. The articulation isn't that terrible either, and it's still a really nice HG, especially if you paint it up.
The lineart I forgot I was going to post.
It still strikes me as being designed by someone with split personality disorder, one of which likes curves and the other likes 90-degree angles. I think it's rare that a Gundam design has so extreme an artistic dissonance with itself.
But what do I know, I don't get to draw robots for a living and fuck asian girls.
I have both units 04 and 05. Engineering wise they are pretty simple to build, but also a bit "primitive" due to their age. The color separation is pretty good (mainly the thrusters/verniers need paint). No tabs to secure the weapons in the hands though, and the arm joints are a bit strange and possibly flimsy.
Overall the kits are pretty cheap and solid despite their age. The weapons each one comes with are nicely designed. If you were to get both they make for a great display piece.
tldr; Decent older MGs that are worth the cheap prices.
Hexa is fashionable
to me it looks like a balding head
I really want a red Kampfer Amazing to go with my Sazabi. Planning to drop all yellow. Very dark grey for the main body, light gray for thrusters and equipment.
Any comments on the color balance, please?
Somewhat new to this, and I'm a little confused. Was pic related a conversion kit for the GN-X or GN-XIII or something, or was it its own HG that I cannot for the life of me find any evidence that it ever existed?
If you're interested, I've tried to read the text boxes with what little Japanese I know. Anyway, it seems like he's done a bit of a kitbash with a few of the HG Gundam 00 kits. Looks like he stole some parts off of the Dynames and a few other ones to make the sword.
Very, very, impressive work.
I want to make a horrible mistake tonight but I want to paint it but live in an apartment and been out of modelling for 6 years
Has your dad ever built a model before?
No: Buy him a cheap one.
Yes: Show him the different types of Zakus and go on from there.
Got shitfaced and built gunpla, on a scale of Nub Destiny to Red Striker how bad is this?
that's because you built up a bad reputation and people now think that YOU are the shitposter.
now enjoy this badly taken picture of something I'm planning to paint to look like a crossbone
Finished the HG Double X the other night, this is one of my favorite designs.
Guess i'll leave my MG crossbone here until i get new panel line pens as both my blacks dried up on this kit.
also painted the weapons gold instead of grey because pirate kings need gold.
i'll give the cloak a try once i get some blu-tac and try some weathering on it
Err, that's precisely the kind of look I was going for, a bulky warrior type. If it made you think "man in armor" on first glance, I suppose the color scheme is doing its job. Not necessarily spandex, though.
But now that you've mentioned it, yeah, it does look Kamen Rider-ish.
Will do. Dark grey, or maybe I'll restore yellow to the binders only.
Thanks, both of you.
It'll take more time if you want to use all the marking foils but otherwise, you're literally just snapping together bits and pieces of plastic. Snap building gunpla doesn't take any effort.
Something still feels off about it but it looks a lot better lined and posed. Something about the head keeps bothering me. Maybe it's just because the hg has a worse head sculpt than the 1/100.
Damn that Hi-Resolution Model Barbatos looks good. Does anyone know if the frame is pre assembled or not? On all the pictures I've seen, only the runners for the armor and the frame are shown together.
so i picked off all pieces of same color.
tended the nubs with x-acto and sandpaper
Anyone? I did a test coat on the torso section, and the parts are so snug together that the paint chipped off, and I feel like if I try to topcoat it, it'd just be too tight to move.
was bored and had a mess around with it
hope you dont mind anon
Ultrasonic activity (cavitation) helps the solution to do its job; plain water would not normally be effective. The cleaning solution contains ingredients designed to make ultrasonic cleaning more effective. For example, reduction of surface tension increases cavitation levels, so the solution contains a good wetting agent (surfactant). Aqueous cleaning solutions contain detergents, wetting agents and other components, and have a large influence on the cleaning process. Correct composition of the solution is very dependent upon the item cleaned. Solutions are mostly used warm, at about 50–65 °C (122–149 °F), however, in medical applications it is generally accepted that cleaning should be at temperatures below 45 °C (113 °F) to prevent protein coagulation.
Water-based solutions are more limited in their ability to remove contaminants by chemical action alone than solvent solutions; e.g. for delicate parts covered with thick grease. The effort required to design an effective aqueous-cleaning system for a particular purpose is much greater than for a solvent system.
Some machines (which are not unduly large) are integrated with vapour degreasing machines using hydrocarbon cleaning fluids: Three tanks are used in a cascade. The lower tank containing dirty fluid is heated causing the fluid to evaporate. At the top of the machine there is a refrigeration coil. Fluid condenses on the coil and falls into the upper tank. The upper tank eventually overflows and clean fluid runs into the work tank where the cleaning takes place. Purchase price is higher than simpler machines, but such machines are economical in the long run. The same fluid can be reused many times, minimising wastage and pollution.
Carbon tetrachloride was used in the past, but is now prohibited as a health hazard.
Yes, but an ultrasonic cleaner is a hell of a lot faster, since you can clean all the parts at once instead of spending hours doing it by hand. It's a bit of an investment though.
i spent like 20 bucks on that, sides i bought mainly to clean my airbrush.
its face is a bit funny looking though, it cant pull off a serious look as good as say a gouf.
And its done.
Should had painted more layers of primer, but this is my first time trying to airbrush primer instead of using canned ones, it end up clogging my airbrush and i went "fuck it" and painted the color after unclogging.
Also made a bit of scratches here and there, lets just assume its battle-damage and apply weathering-makeup later in game.
Just finished panel lining the sazabi, still need to panel line the rick diaz but the rick diaz was a ton of fun to build
blog time: despite having a better respirator and safety goggles, i went for airbrush wearing the simplest mask i was wearing to sand/hand paint. Now my eye membranes and kinda sticky, hope everything is alright ill be able to wake up tomorrow without any bigger issues.
Red makes everything 3x faster.
>my eye membranes and kinda sticky
>hope ill be able to wake up tomorrow
Why not call a doctor before you blind yourself?
I airbrush in a closed room with no airflow and no safety equpiment for years and ive had no problems
The only eye protection I ever wear when airbrushing are my glasses and I've never had a real problem with the lacquer affecting my eyes unless the wind blew the paint into my face.
Got my bae on a stand. I figured out a way to keep it upright.
Snowing here in colorado so took some shots of my RG wing outside. Thoughts/tips on photo shooting outside?
Excuse the finger slightly over the cam, its cold out
Anyway, wait until it's sunny if possible
Have your model face the sun, with your back to the sun and the model "looking" at the sun
Find a spot that isn't the courtyard of your apartment complex desu senpai
I could but I thought it was the best photo N not sure how to rotate from photo gallery on phone
Thanks ill keep that in mind, I was holding out for snow for the wing gundam but getting lighting is a lot harder than expected.
I dont think I missed any nubs, I think some of the spots on it that look like nubs are snowflakes. But ill read up in stickers and decals. I applied the stickers pretty carefully but they still peel off like on the right arm and part of the wing
Hello again. Finally finished adding in the pink LED for the mono eye and psycho frame chest piece. I had to use a clear red piece of runner from a unicorn to dim the chest area, but it gave it a slightly more red tint that looks nice in person. I did manage to keep everything inconspicuous, having a small battery stored in the back and the switch hidden just underneath the back torso area. Threaded the fiber optics just beneath the back of the head as well. Unfortunately, the mono eye did loose some of its swivel capabilities, but the result still works. I had thought of adding in LEDs to the binders for the cannons, but I think I've monkeyed with this long enough. I'm lucky the stand and chest work as is, considering my poor soldering skills.
They were painted with glow paint. The problem with the thrusters is that its a dual ball socket system. They're so thin that you cant really drill a hole into them without seriously weakening the structure. Otherwise, I would have rigged all of the thrusters on the binders and feet as well. On the plus side, with the paint charged, they can give off a fair amount of light, and it stays charged for a good couple of hours. Less stressful than trying to carefully drill a hole through a rounded surface.
Looks good, anon! A little dark, but good.
pls release RE/100 Leo asap you fucking piece of shit assholes
Why must we fight Bandai?
I'm surprised the Leo made the cut. It's gonna be my first 1/100 Model.
To place the neo-zeon seal or not to place the neo-zeon seal. That is the question.
another update with the MG Nu Ver Ka
I love how the A turned out in the shoulder
gotta have to stock some paint to keep working on this
>I'm surprised the Leo made the cut. It's gonna be my first 1/100 Model.
None of those are officially getting kits except for the Efreet. They are just designs being considered for release with no commitment yet.
You know, that Jagd Doga would look so much better with even the tiniest amount of extra effort.
than what the Hi Nu ver Ka will be?
after I complete the Nu I think I'll work on 1 or 2 SRW I have here before tackling the hi nu
I still have to get that HWS expansion too for it
> Hi Nu ver Ka
Personally, I think it's inferior to Nu. Nu looks unique. Hi-Nu looks like a generic winged gundam. Colors are meh too, while simple black and white color scheme of original Nu is pure style.
why i would do that ?
Just Snap for the moment. waiting to do a custom of different variation of metalized red.
i just finish him and see that (same for the x-1) but has i plane to paint theme it's not really a problem.
Always wanted to try a resin kit.
So much prep work though. Looks like a quality kit however
That's how it's supposed to be from the official lore
Here's the "regular" version that has the flat feet.
>i think they look cool actually
top coated and decaled my painted Gato Gelgoog. was hoping to panel line more but pens are dead.
The design philosophy takes nothing from the Zeonic playbook. It's all RGM with no RMS. I'll never forget how they literally put the Psyco Gundam's arms on a Hazel. Fuck faces.
>so what? there are plenty of kits that have been made that aren't canon.
I'm merely expressing my disgust in a clam fashion.
>I'm merely expressing my disgust in a clam fashion.
no you're just being a faggot shit poster like always. If you were expressing disgust you would have said something like >>13824380
said rather than stating a fact that's not relevant to whether you like or dislike the series, but then again >>13824380 is just you samefagging right? Either way you're a retard.
RE/100 is pretty much MG in an alternate universe where skeletons never became standard and Junichi Akutsu kept doing the designs.
The entire line is undergated on coloured runners, by the way.
>It's all RGM with no RMS
stop sucking cock for a few minutes and go look at the other TR series MS besides Hazel.
>I'm merely expressing my disgust in a clam fashion.
>I'm merely expressing my disgust in a clam fashion.
>I'm merely expressing my disgust in a clam fashion.
sound pretty assblasted to me son.
Really? Have you seen my Sazaboo?
theres also an AOZ Barzam but its kind of ugly.