Gunpla / Plamo General
***READ THE GUIDE***
***READ THE GUIDE***
For those new to gunpla/plamo or even just new to this thread; please read the guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model". If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!
>Why won't anyone answer my question?
Try being specific, especially about your materials and process. Post pictures whenever possible; even if the kit/part looks bad, you are more likely to get help posting pictures.
A guide to other types of plamo:
Kawaguchi Gunpla tips:
http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1 AND http://gundma.imgur.com/
Another gunpla guide:
January Restock: http://pastebin.com/cGZkTqai
Old Thread >>13798655
Our next Group Build!
Basically what this means is that rather than the mobile suit being fresh out of a factory, it's quite the opposite. Whether it's trudging through dense jungles or dodging debris in asteroid belts, your mobile suit has seen some better days.
You've been out in the field for quite a long time now, nearly half a year of active duty in the front lines and your personal mobile suit's pretty banged up. What's worse is the fact that there isn't a maintenance bay within several thousand kilometers of your local area that's capable of making any major repairs. Your unit's engineering crew has resorted to patch work and jury-rigging to keep your machine operational. Stray fire might have crippled its legs and arms or otherwise dealt considerable damage to a mobile suit's systems meanwhile some units have simply lost bits of armor and panels to the elements and have been forced to patch weld metal sheets over the exposed inner workings.
In any case it's beaten to hell but somehow you and your team have somehow kept it chugging along and now command's ordered all units operating in your theatre to fall back to form a defensive line against the enemy offensive.
Deadline: March 7
Send submissions to: email@example.com
I tried it with my hg Gouf Custom, I hung it from the ceiling next to my bed. Then one night the connector for the arm fell off and the Gouf just fell to the carpet. So the next day I woke up, stepped out of bed and crunch :,( Never again.
This is the pinnacle of gunpla.
Dude, it used the zaku Himo mold, which was pretty much the best HG zaku mold at the time and pretty damn modern. Especially when compared to the build MK II and QP kits which were using molds from like a decade ago.
The kits isn't bad at all either, what issue did you have with it?
From what we can see of the insides, this gunpla build is actually roughly as complicated and textured as a real tenga onahole.
>those things are fucking rocket science for your dick
Define "latest," if you could? I'm curious as to what more you would want.
Even a new Revive kit isn't THAT much better than what we got aside from full flexion of the elbows and knees?
Possibly greater polycap compatibility for kitbashing, but that's all I can think of.
Other than the latest polycap layout/runner introduced with the AGP kits it really doesn't lack anything. It's perfectly fine articulation wise considering its bulkiness, has decent detail, and comes with a ton of weapons. The HGUC it's based on was a very nice kit and still is.
Got a little lost. What's AGP?
Not the guy you're responding to by the way; just a guy looking to get back into gunpla after building a Gelgoog Cannon when it was actually a new kit.
Do any of the older HGs need cement?
And by older I mean 1999-ish and after
Here is an illustration thanks to my friend Mr D. Long
"All Gundam Project".
As part of sort of a cross promotion with Build Fighters, Bandai started a release/marketing campaign for releasing modern kits for the last several lead gundams that lacked them (Wing gundam, Victory, F91, Double X, etc) using their new polycap runner. It's really just a marketing gimmick in the end but it got us a bunch of long awaited kits and was the first time Bandai went into late UC with the HGUC line.
The Revive kits being released currently are basically the same deal, re-releaseing modern versions of dated kits with modern engineering.
The whole thing is to help make kitbashing easier.
Yep, so really what's different his that the Origin Zaku II gets full flexion of its elbows (so it can draw back with both right shoulder and elbow) to get a "proper" shot.
Conversely, the old Amazing Zaku isn't "bad," just outdated. Yeah, it's small, but 90-degree maximum flexion has been the HG staple for...more or less forever, so you're not missing TOO much.
Just think of the Zaku Amazing as more of its in-setting counterpart: not a terrible MS (kit), but it's certainly functional, and quite good as-is compared to older kits (in metaphor, the Zaku I or outdated variants of the II).
Ah, so that's it. I knew the Revive line purpose, so I'm glad it simply expands it outwards.
Really, I'm impressed with photos of the Gundam Mk-II revives, so this is actually really great (along with easier kitbash).
Considering that Build Fighter's entire setting was "slap shit onto your gunpla and the magic fighting machine will make it make sense," it's honestly anything the owner says it is, regardless of the WYSIWYG loadout. They make the MS do silly, silly things (though it's fine since they aren't "real robots" at that point).
It was an all rounder unit.
Cleavers for close combat, pistols for mid range, and a cannon and missile launchers for long range.
For the most part Yuuki heavily favors jack of all trade machines that carry a variety of weapon options (Even in the manga). The Exia Amazing is really the only break from this as it mostly featured close combat swords.
His gunpla are like swiss army knives really.
The way Tatsuya fought before he became Meijin was tons better.
Actually, speaking of this, was Build Burning supposed to be an RG, or something unique? It had an internal frame, but I recall it showing up as an HG on Sekai's GP Base. So what gives?
The system can apparently just recognize if the base was a HG or a RG or not.
Fun Fact: Sei/Reiji sidegrading to the Build MK-II was actually foreshadowing for the RG System.
>Additionally, the knowledge Sei gained from building this machine was used in his next creation, the Star Build Strike. Specifically, the base Gundam Mk-II possesses an inner frame similar to a human skeleton called a Movable Frame. This structure was ported to the Build Strike, and played a part in the development of Sei's unique RG System. When the Star Build Strike activates the RG System, a skeleton structure can momentarily be seen inside it. As you might have pieced together, that inner frame is identical to the Movable Frame inside this machine. While the Build Mk-II does not possess a RG System, it would probably be relatively easy to install one. Unfortunately, other things needed to be built during the preparations for the World Tournament so this addition never happened.
Sei built full inner frames into his other gunpla as well.
The actual HG is just an HG of the design, not an exact 1:1 replica of the kit in the show.
In show it's registered as an HG because somewhere in the build it uses what were at some point HG parts.
Also, BF didn't really market or mention RG at all outside of the RG system as a reference. Most likely due to the series being marketed as a kids series and RG having a higher Age rating on the kits.
Sei was a total gundam fan in general and displayed as much love in his references for UC as he had kits of Seed.
>Absolute Gundam fan
>Has no love for Gunpla
>Only interested in using Gunpla as a medium for his martial arts
>Only interested in building Gunpla if he gets to build with a cute loli
Sekai a passionless boy who smudges the good name of true Gundam fans.
Guys I've had my MG Double X model since last year June or July and I still haven't touched it.
On top of that I now have MG F91, MG Aegis, and an MG Destiny that I intend to sell off and rebuy Destiny as the Extreme Burst version.
But I've had all these models sitting there gaining dust for so long I'm getting worried I've fallen out of touch with Gunpla.
The only good part in Try in general was when Kawaguchi kicked Yuu's shit in using his own beat up gunpla.
>Don't use the words "try hard" to comfort yourself
>Those words are for cheering on others.
I have never painted a Gunpla before and still feel too inexperienced to paint one. I've built over 23 Gunpla and have only now learned of Top Coating and will start doing it next model onwards.
Don't even ask how I'm so shit.
As probably overestimating my abilities, I sort of want to just save up enough and invest straight into stuff like airbrushes, because I want to try my hardest at painting Gunpla, I'm just too poor at the moment and don't have enough free time to do it.
>Doesn't really know anything about Gundam
>Plays Gunpla Battle because it's fun
>Decides to build a Gunpla partially to spite Sei that he can
>Gets good beginner's instruction on building his first kit
>Comes to appreciate how a builder feels about watching their Gunpla get damaged, how much work Sei puts into his own Gunpla, and how this is holding Sei back as a fighter
I liked Reiji a hell of a lot better than I did Sekai.
When are those coming out, by the way? I've watched through build fighters three times now. Can't they just continue that universe and shove try off into the corner of nothingness? I'd rather watch a fucking adam sandler film then rewatch try, at least one of his films is shorter in comparison even if the amount of terribleness can possibly be as much in proportion.
Hey, there were good parts of Try.
I'll list them right here.
First four eps -> Episode 7 (Snapfag Simon) -> Episode 10 (Beargguy race) -> Episode 19 (Junya beats the shit out of Sekai) -> Episode 22 (TRYON 3) -> Episode 25 (We actually remembered that this show was supposed to be fun - the episode)
He honestly might have been experimenting with making his own inner frame.
That's the SBS, not the base BS. Like the manual mentioned above, Sei took the knowledge he learned from building the Build MK-II and put it into all future builds.
In fact, Build Burning is supposed to be him going even further and synthesizing what her learned from both the MK-II and the SBS; the blue clear parts all over the BB are effectively Plavsky Particle sinks that draw in particles all the time. The BB is stated in its manual to effectively always be in RG Mode.
Man I should get a blog or something and start posting up manual translations.
I guess this is very appropriate now.
The twist wasn't even hidden
It was obvious from the fucking reveal that it had a real mode
None of those episodes were good. I wish they were. I wish Tryon 3's episode made sense, but it didn't. Go rewatch it again. They reuse the stock footage when it makes no sense. Team Try acts as if they're all actually getting hit by the shit that the Tryon 3 is doing. Minato's teammates don't say a thing during the entire debacle even though up to that point they were actually shown as having some sort of teamwork and bond, at least moreso then the main characters. Episode 25 is hamfisted as fuck. They just threw a reference in the original series at the start, revealed two new products, showed off the contest winners beating a jobber who honestly had no right to job as hard as he did with the mobile armors he was making, then added on the "gunpla is fun rite guiz this series wasn't shit" right at the end.
Try was shit, lady meijin made no sense and yuki had no reason to be the meijin supposedly seven years later. Saga adou isn't a middle schooler, gyanko and fumina aren't either, the series was shit and had no redeemable qualities outside some specific model kits. Mostly just Tryon 3 and Gundam The End.
And if you're a fag that loves flaming effect parts, the build boring.
Da Vinci blows, the scale is completely fucked.
Why did they even bother saying it was the same height as the Leopard if they're just going to have it loom over all the HGAW kits?
Finished this the other day, haven't had a chance to take proper pictures of this and the other kit I'm about to post. I matte sprayed it, but I haven't taken a picture of that so this is just after I finished snapping it together.
And here's this fat fuck, I fucking love it. Thinking about weathering him and whatnot for the contest, but I'm also in the middle of painting something else. I think I'm almost done, but I might not be. Granted I suppose I don't need to paint it per say to weather it either, but nonetheless I want to work on it more. It's my favorite suit since The O.
I like it. It's just a Wing Gundam with less clownish colors, but looks good.
Seems like the black parts of the wings does not separate like it does on the RG.
I kinda prefer it this way though since the RG wings feels flimsy as fuck due to this gimmick.
Only thing I don't like on this is the mini beam rifle.
Understandable though since he has 4 other huge laser cannons.
This was the DUMBEST fight of BF. Gunpla gore and "muh fighter spirit" is shit. Bunch of annoying kids pulverizing plastic in an ego fight.
yes it might take some minor steps to not be retarded, but if you can't hang a small robit kit from the ceiling you might want to retire
this is because
1. ZA's rifle has a forward handle, which requires wrist movement to work properly
2. the origin kit is hold it's rifle at a flatter angle to the chest, which is the easiest way to make it work
3. obviously there are some age differences
I had the same disappointing issue with the build MKII. So today I said fuck it and am just going to use the RG as a base. Is do the same for ZA but the RG is kinda grenade-y. RAGE ON RAGE ON RAGE ON
>Shit, we don't even know what half the MS look like for this series.
>Just keep showing a bunch of ms from the EW OVA, that'll be good enough.
>Do the same with the characters too.
>born to short to be cool
>born to tall to be cute
>born to be super shit
I want one of these lil niggas so bad man
Which ones? I have a Bandai 1/20 Scopedog and it's awesome. Wave makes kits as well and they seem to be spoken of well online.
>tfw no 1/20 Rabidly Dog ever
>tfw no 1/20 Diving Beetle ever
So I just came to a realization here. After putting together my Schwalbe....Freedom(?), I have no idea what to do with the now wingless Revive (besides finish building it). Outside of the conversion kit, I can't think of anything to do with it. Any ideas guys?
Sorry in advance for all the links
I am just starting out and I want to know if the following things will suffice.
I have ordered a black, gray and brown fine tip pen. I already have a bunch of tools so I won't be needing any more for the models. I was also thinking of buying modeling glue( pic related) in order to use it like the guy in this video:
Would that work? I also really liked how his zaku turned out so I am also interested in weathering it like the guy did. Are these markers any good for that?
Gundam Marker Real Touch Set 2
Btw does weathering have a similar effect with dry brushing? If yes which one is the best and what kind of paint do I use when dry brushing?
Finally are these matt sprays any good for gundam models?
Thanks for the advice
Is the Real Grade Zaku II worth it?
I was thinking just to wait a year or two for a Revive Zaku II (really surprised the Gouf and Gyan got it before the humble grunt Zaku II).
I'm really freaking impressed with the Revive Gundam Mk-II so far (but then again, it was the first Gundam, non-monoeye/zeon-styled MS I had built in years, so I may not have known if it had always been as good).
Can I thin Tamiya acrylics with alcohol or water? What is the ratio? Are they good for airbrush and how much should I wait between each coat?
If I want to panel wash over those what kind of coat should I use on them?
Try giving it a more traditional backpack? There's plenty of those GBF backpack sets. Or Builder Parts, like the funnel racks, along with backlog/extra parts. Do whatever you want.
Tamiya is alcohol based and it is highly recommended you use their own thinner (although iso alcohol works, just not as well on its own).
They are pretty much specifically formulated for airbrushing.
Something for the core fighter mode in the old Victory.
What is better design?
Wing Gundam or Wing Zelo
I wanna get both, but I don't really want to build the same kit twice.
Long time snap builder, first time painter here. I've built a small handful of kits, and want to get in to painting them.
I'm considering using Testors Model Masters spray paints. But Tamiya spray paint is also available locally. Lets say a spoon is gonna be my subject.
Sand-> Prime -> Lacquer -> Gloss Coat -> Enamel or acrylic -> Details* -> Top coat
I read the guide, but I still am a bit lost, looking at primers, there seems to be different colors, the same for top coats. I faintly remember it being explained in the past which primer was used for which colors you intended, but I could use a helping hand.
I guess the scenario would be two white pieces, seam welded together, standard plastic white. And I want to turn it in to a gloss white, with decals under the final layer,
Would standard sanding job>Tamiya white surface primer>Testors MM white lacquer paint>Testors MM lacquer clear coat>decals>Testors MM lacquer Clear coat (or Testors MM lacquer matte coat If I wanted to switch to Matte instead) be the proper order? Or am I reading the guide, and remembering past advice wrong?
And for one more scenario, all the same, seamwelded with decals, except, say... blue: standard sanding job>Tamiya grey or black surface primer>Testors MM blue lacquer paint>Testors MM lacquer clear coat>decals>Testors MM lacquer Clear coat be a workable solution.
Thank you in advance, I'd appreciate knowing if I am on the right track. Or if I am being a complete shitter. Any better alternatives are welcome.
Get it. It's one of my favorites.
Where should i go if i want to get my hands in both, gourai and stiletto frame arms girl?
The normal places don't have them in stock, and Amazon they go for like 2 o 3 more.
Should i wait for them to be available again (if they ever get made again, thats it)
Gourai? Nowhere for a reasonable price. They only did one production run of it over half a year ago and it was stupidly popular so it goes for over $100 with no second production run in sight.
Paradoxically it is cheaper to buy the exclusive version of it now than the original, although that is still like $80.
She jumped in price since I last checked last week. She was going for about $55 or so on Amazon when I last looked and now she's $75. Materia being released must have boosted sales.
>ball joints to pegs
shave/sand down ball joint to size, fit to appropriate polycap
>pegs to ball joint
use one of those ball-type polycaps (if you build SDs you know the ones) and fit to appropriate polycap
now if you want hip rotation... sorry, can't help with that
>I faintly remember it being explained in the past which primer was used for which colors you intended, but I could use a helping hand.
Apologies if this sounds stupid basic, but any colour primer will work with any colour paint, but whatever you paint over the primer will be influenced by the shade of the primer unless it's an exceptionally strong colour or paint with really good coverage properties. For example, most colours going over white primer will be brighter. Painting white over black primer will need more coats to look truly white. Enamels and spraycans tend to provide better coverage and need less coats than say Tamiya acrylics out of an airbrush.
I avoid black primer for that reason and tend to use gray and white. I use gray for virtually everything except when I plan to paint something gray so I can see what I'm painting easily. Likewise, when painting white, I use gray primer and just do extra coats because it allows me to see where the paint is going. With white-on-white and old eyes like mine it can be hard to tell if you actually painted the whole thing. If you can easily differentiate the primer and paint this is less of an issue obviously.
Black primer does have it's uses. I especially like using it before thin metallic paint coats. Maybe my head is mangled but it makes them look nicer. It's also great if you're planning to do, say, a Titans blue colour. Sometimes, I also just roll the dice and spray a colour I have over the black primer and end up liking the results if I know I'm looking for something dark. Otherwise, I tend to avoid it as it just makes everything require more coats.
Your planned steps are looking good to me. Wise to ask for help before risking demolishing a good model and wasting rattlecans (I know they add up fast). Good luck with your project
what you mean use fodder for customs?
Zaku for sure. Reminds me that I still need the Ortega, but I enjoyed the Gaia/Mash HG.
I guess I'm not the only one working on a Zaku
This was in a reaction image thread on /toy/. Anyone have other funny gunpla pics?
um no cause i have the gaia/mash one and his fingers o not move freely like that.
awesome how much did it cost you? i havent tried a 1/100 yet, can you put it next to a 1/144 so i can see the difference?
I got it when it first dropped so they're reds, but I like reds so it works.
I got it for $43 on prime. This was a while ago tho back when I was still filling my massive backlog.
Right after the GM and Gouf
The Ground Type is cool but I'm more of an Ez8 guy myself though.
So anybody here build a zee zulu?
Kinda need some help, the sheath for the knives isn't snapping together properly at the top, I suspect I'm screwing something since there seems to be some specific instructions in the manual but I don't speak moon rune.
Well either that or isn't molded properly.
Any suggestions for airbrushing in an apartment?
Or should I just give up?
So I'm not that into gunpla, but I'm considering buying one. Are there any kits for Gundam Epyon that are in 1/144 scale, or is the only one the 1/100 MG kit? Mainly asking because I want to add an Epyon to my collection that's in scale with the Robot Damashii figures, but I don't want to drop $80 to get their Epyon second-hand (As far as I know, the Epyon figure hasn't been issued for a few years now). Is there anything out there, or am I pretty much screwed?
The 1/144 is shitty and it might not be great to start out with a MG, especially if you don't plan on staying with the hobby. So I think you might be fucked, or have to pay out the ass
Post your build music for when you just need to get it done.
Listening to some variable formation while building a full armor mobile suit is the best.
Any EU (or even better Italian) modellers here? I'm on a work trip in Italy and was wondering where I can pick up a bottle of Future Floor Polish? How is it called here? It's not available in my country.
Thanks in advance.
>Listens to Gundam Seed OP while building toys.
nice, SEED had some really good music
I usually just watch reruns of shows I like on netflix rather than listen to music, also nice kit choice, the FA 7th is a badass. I don't have any shots of my complete one unfortunately so here it is with a couple other kits I was working on at the time.
Buy Wing Gundam Honoo Custom Kit and make yourself something nice
thin brushon cement (note. not super glue, plastic cement) is what you use for seam welding.
gundam markers are a good beginner start but look up some videos on how to use them properly. same thing for weathering. both are topics too long to answer in a post.
lastly use mr color for your topcoat. trust me.
You degenerate, I would n-never buy any of those cute girls!
dont take what i say as gospel, but if you're experienced, plastic cement is the way to go. it melts and welds the plastic into one piece where superglue bonds the two parts together. in either case LESS IS MORE. the less you use, the more forgiving it is when you're fitting parts together. once the parts are lined up, paint a thin layer over the seam, let it dry then repeat 2 more times. let it cure then sand it down till its flush with the plastic. hope that rambling helps.
>Like an idiot I only preordered 1 and now its sold out everywhere unless you want to pay double.
>Preorders for the Architect sold out so fast I missed it.
He didn't say a damn word about superglue. You'd have to be an idiot to use superglue in the first place unless it's a last-resort stopgap measure or you're working with resin/photoetch.
Which one do you like better? They're both pretty good kits, and they're very similar (transforming gimmick, militaristic colours, few accessories). The Delta Plus has issues with it's balance a bit, but nothing a stand can't fix and I think it looks delicious.
Out of the box they both look pretty good.
Baking soda? Never heard about that, I do know about superglue + talcum though.
I was talking about using superglue for attaching parts actually.
Besides, what about, you know, putty for filling seams?
The original topic was fixing seams and you can use talc or baking soda. And the advantage of the superglue method over the putty method (without cementing the parts together first) is that the superglue holds the part together better than just putty and is less prone to cracking.
Best method I've found is to just use plastic cement first and then use putty to fix and remaining seam though.
me and a fried are working on rigging Optical wire through the barrels of the HGBC gatling gun and making it entirely self contained useing small small batteries. also we are working on adding lights to the kshatriya, for the head, beam saber, and boosters. im also working on a side project for lighting my HG unicorn stand base so that the 1/45 head lights up in destroy mode. if that works well ill buy the banshee head base +banshee. hope i dont kill myself between this and classes!
Hey buddy, check out this page for tons of info on future including what it's called in various countries.
Italy isn't on there but you should figure out who distributes or sells SC Johnson products and contact them, I'm sure they have the info you are looking for.
I really like mine. All I had to do was hand paint the thrusters, a little yellow on either side of each leg and then some grey on the feet armor cover things where there is a sticker in my pic and then some more grey on the tail end that comes off the back waist area After that I felt it was ready for topcoat and it came out really nice. You can only see the yellow on the legs in my pic I posted since that's all I had done so far at that point in the build. For being a bulky MS it can still strike some cool poses and the big shoulder beam cannon is fucking sweet. If you like it's design, definitely go pick one up!
pic realated is the back part that needs some grey.
Tamiya Enamels are great for hand painting, Tamiya Acrylics are not.
XF and X are just indicators of whether the paint has a flat finish or not.
Be careful with her feet according to 2chan.
>perfect grade evangelion.
Literally the worst Perfect Grade and also the worst Evangelion kit at the same time.
The rubber parts will cause you trauma that'll be felt generations down the line.
Thanks for the reviews /m/en. Doing a bit of detail painting isn't a problem for me, so I'll definitely keep this one on my wishlist.
Too bad the RX-81 G-Line doesn't have a kit.
I dont usually listen to music when building, but i did listen to this when building 1/100 unicorn and 1/100 shinanju.
it was a nightmare seeing as i built them at the same time
didnt even need to click the spoiler to get it
What stand connection is shown here?
The BA3-C 10 from the action base 1 doesn't look like that, is it from the character plate stands?
Now a question for you two as you seem to knowledgeable on it, how should one prime pieces to be hand painted? I'm new to painting my kits and I'm curious if I'm doing the right thing by priming with Mr. Base 1000, then going over with the Tamiya pots (which is going to change now that I know they're not as good for hand painting).
Any other suggestions are appreciated because I want my kits to look good and I can't airbrush due to the weather (I have a work bench but it's in a poorly insulated garage, temperatures lately have been an average of about 35f, even shitty for priming).
You don't need 4 arms to control 4 ms arms. They aren't direct mind controlled. The link is more to assist and let them fine tune their movements as well as data feed. We saw him suffering a bit when they plugged him in last episode though, so he possibly won't be able to use it long.
Once you start airbrushing primer I'd like to suggest this stuff. Covers well, levels very well, sandable, durable, and dries to a very nice light grey.
Just make sure to have a respirator and proper ventilation when spraying as it uses mr.color thinner. And it requires more thinner than you will probably initially think.
The link is definitely about data feed more than anything else, but that's not what I meant. The suit would have physical controls, so, how does he manipulate four arms with a pair of inputs? Are the rear arms automated? Can they do targeting through the AV system? As in, can a AV user will the arms to fire and generally target moving objects? Melee would require too much finesse, but maybe aim and shoot is possible.
A second operator for the rear arms and to take over suit control during the sniper mode (basically a Lockon & Haro team) seems like another possibility. It'd also give that kid something to do.
>I'm not buying basically 4 kits to make it look ok
You mean 2? Or are you referencing the 1/100 where it comes with parts for both?
Hell, get two and you can do the frog and the super-rebake with four binders at the same time.
>Too bad the RX-81 G-Line doesn't have a kit.
Oh, but they do have kits. The only problem is that they're not styrene:
>i usually listen to retrowave futurefunk
When that's not slowed down Enigma and Sade, it's Daft Punk during their Discovery era.
What I'm saying is that you should be listening to the original product, rather than hipster non-arrangements
Looking at buying one of two shelving units.
First one's dimensions and price; 1/4
I pre-ordered it when it was getting re-stocked, and it's my first Kotobukiya kit so I hope it's interesting.
Yeah, I'm a fan of the design so I figured I'd try out the model kit over the figure
Second one's price and dimensions; 3/4
>When that's not slowed down Enigma and Sade, it's Daft Punk during their Discovery era.
>What I'm saying is that you should be listening to the original product, rather than hipster non-arrangements
What an enormous faggot you are.
>pictures of shelves
>with holes in them
>doesn't even have the bins to store
what the fuck are you doing posting this
It's not really a failure, it's just the exact same as what you see here, with the only real change being that I gave it the Schwalbe Graze's butt for extra boost and I took the shield off.
I think I'm going to turn this into an EWAC Graze instead of it being both EWAC and Sniper.
How did I do for my first kits? I'm going to order a couple of MG's now, also gotta get some paint for details.
Anyone know if this will work as an alternative to mr super clear? I can't get my hands on mr super clear so it is either this or no matt spray at all