Anyone have experience with putting together arcade sticks/cabinets? I want a true 4-way stick that connects via USB, but nobody sells one. They're all for fightfags.
The solution appears to be building one yourself from a stick, buttons, encoder board, and putting them inside a wooden box or something. It doesn't seem too hard but if anyone has done this I'd be interested to know how it went and if there's anything I should know before I start.
I was looking at the the GGG leaf pro stick.
I built a 4 player mame cabinet and trackball back near 12 years ago when I was 13. Just going off of forums and youtube tutorials. It's super easy to do a simple stick wiring with a usb card. Just read up a lot before you order parts and research as much as you can.
>>3929063
youtube tutorials for building mame cabinets didn't exist in 2005.
>>3928947
I'm fairly sure my Seimitsu LS-32 came with a 4-way restrictor plate. It's a trivial mod, just take it apart, unscrew the 8-way plate, screw it back on in the 4-way position.
>>3929067
You are right sorry I meant about 8 years ago. Remember there being like 5 videos out there on building cabs. The one o watched most was the Revision3 one (I think that was what it was called) but anyways there are tons of tutorials to make a usb fightstick. It should be fairly simple to do.
The best option is getting one of those crappy WWE brawl sticks for 20 bucks, then just replacing the buttons and stick with real parts. It's a completely trivial mod, and you're left with a decent metal plate stick with an ugly sticker you can replace.
It's cheaper than the materials you'd need otherwise. 7 bucks for the encoder, 10 for the wood, any tools you happen to be missing, and a few hours of your time are worth a lot more.
I've built controllers before, but they're all for arcade shit that doesn't have an easily accessible case you can pick up for dirt cheap, that's better than anything you can probably make anyway.
>>3929067
No, but Maximum PC published one around that time. May have been 2003 or 2004 though.
>>3928947
here in my country they people buy cheap usb controllers for the board. I've even seen someone just gutting an original xbox controller for this.
the rest is just wiring the arcade parts into that shit.
>>3928947
I've assembled sticks for my supergun and re-writed my Neo-Geo MVS cabinet.
It's about as basic as you can get for a beginner project.
>Buy case online.
I used Tek Innovations cases for mine, because they looked fairly reasonable. I'm pretty happy with the outcome.
>Assemble case if necessary
>Buy PC adapter board
Most of these afaik are solderless, so you just need to screw in the connections
>fit board onto case
>Buy buttons/sticks
I used JLF sticks and sanwa buttons.
>wire up teh buttons and sticks
This is by far teh most labor intensive part of the build, mostly because you need to wire up up to 12 buttons and the 4 directions of teh joystick. It's a pain in the ass but easy enough.
If you don't have solder, wire, quick connects or heatshrink/electrical tape I would strongly suggest buying a pre-built stick and saving yourself the trouble.
>>3929549
I can't really solder. Don't have a kit or experience. The reason I want to do this is I want a 4 way (not 8 way) for older arcade games. Pacman is unplayable with an 8 way stick. Ideally I'd get a true 4 way stick but I guess I could use an 8 way with a restrictor gate.
I actually bought a cheap stick a while ago before I knew all this and that's how I learned I need a 4 way. I guess instead of building a stick I could buy whatever is the cheapest moddable stick, but I'm not sure what that would be.
>>3929735
Just curious, why does it have to be a "true" 4-way stick? Any fight stick you buy with a Sanwa stick is more than likely going to come with a box restriction gate you can rotate to restrict to 4 ways.
>>3928947
I built a small bartop arcade in 2013.
>building one yourself from a stick, buttons, encoder board, and putting them inside a wooden box or something
That's basically what your project would entail, from what I understand. All I could suggest is maybe make it out of cardboard first, or at least be absolutely sure you're comfortable with the dimensions. I made the mistake of making the controls area of my cabinet kind of small so there's not much room for hand travel.
>>3930141
The cheapest fightstick I could find with Sanwa parts is $80 for a Madcatz SFV Alpha.
I did find someone on Etsy who makes precut wooden cases like what I'd need.
But then I went on eBay and found one of those Madcatz sticks for around $50 so I just got that.
If anyone's interested in the Etsy link it's at https://www.etsy.com/listing/264441384/single-player-arcade-enclosure-kit-for
>>3930474
Dude, honestly, if all you want is a casual arcade fun, you don't need true competition buttons. "Bootleg" sanwa/ seimitsu buttons and sticks will be just fine (i'd dare say as good as, but i'd like to avoid the backlash). They're really cheap at Aliexpress and alikes.
You can build your table out of MDF wich is cheap and free from the downsides of regular woodwork (heavy weight, plague susceptible). If you wanna go fancy you can screw acrylic on top, etc.
At Aliexpress you can also find cheap " zero lag usb" boards to connect your buttons to (no need to dismantle an cheap ps2 controller for it). The wiring is easily bought in any electronics/construction store, and some even come in a kit with the buttons and sticks:
https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/Arcade-Joystick-DIY-Kit-Zero-Delay-Arcade-Kit-USB-Encoder-To-PC-Arcade-copy-Sanwa-Joystick/32774632611.html?spm=2114.02010208.3.1.vDpjCj&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10068_10136_10137_5100019_10060_10138_10155_10062_10156_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_10099_10103_10102_10096_10148_10147_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10143_10051_10173_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_10078_10079_10073_10070_10123_10124,searchweb201603_10,afswitch_1,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=4e1ed3c4-004b-4a28-939c-cbb2b945440b&algo_expid=a002382d-ad5d-467e-8edc-95ba4b937a3c-3&algo_pvid=a002382d-ad5d-467e-8edc-95ba4b937a3c
This right here has most of what you need, for instance. And that's from searching the first page.
I honestly don't think dismantling a pro controller is worth it.
>>3931540
>>3930474
Just make sure you add good ventilation to the table, and organize the wires. It'll save a lot of headaches. Also, it's a good idea to use a few soundproofing foams inside, so the whole thing won't turn into a echo chamber for the button mashing.
And if you're thinking about printing some cool artwork on the panel, don't use low res images, make your own design or use good quality pics, preferabily something that can withstand 300dp resolution files, for printing purposes.
>>3930474
Mayflash f300 is compatible with sanwa.
I have one and love it. I've never replaced the parts and I never play fighting games.
>buying Sanwa/clone parts for a general arcade stick
Why do people never do their research?
You want either HAPP style for a taste of the west, or Seimitsu style if you're a weeb. Sanwa is for fightan fags, it's a trash choice for SHMUPS or most games you'd play on a MAME setup.
>>3928947
this is all you will ever need
http://slagcoin.com/joystick.html
>>3932358
Building 1P sticks doesn't make logical sense anymore, after the fightan scene flooded the market with tons of perfectly good sticks that are all up on eBay for pretty cheap.
Unless you have a super weird layout, or you're building a proper cabinet with mounted controls, there's no point to building your own stick.
>>3932383
>No.
Right, i'm sorry, i forgot everybody here is going to be the next EVO revelation. Enjoy your overpriced meme buttons, anon.
Don't let anyone get in the way of your dreams, anon.
>>3934862
Honestly, you can't afford a dollar a button?
The chink clones are made to much shittier tolerances, out of shittier plastics. There are a few that are passable, but it's mostly a total crapshoot, which is why it's far easier to just buy the real parts.
They're not expensive, and you get arcade accuracy.
>>3928947
I used to own several cabs that I maintained and built custom cabs and sticks. It's easy and straight forward. The most important thing to know before you start is that most of the places that specialize in selling the parts you need online are a ridiculous rip off. Shop around. If you find prices that sound too good to be true it's probably just someone who's not an autistic basement dweller bilking hipsters.
If you are semicompetent at sodlering then the only hard part is building the actual wooden box itself.
Just buy a cheapass USB ocntroller and gut it, then is just a matter of soldering the pads on the PCB to the corresponding buttons and stick. Ive built a few for friends and myself and beli9eve me, the hardest part is actually building the fucking wooden box.
I have a semi related question, i already have a custom built stick, two buttons are weared out and i want to repolace them all with those buttons that light up.
Querstion ius, how can i make them work without the need of another USB cable just for the LEDs? any suggestions welcome.
>>3935232
Power them with the cord for your rice cooker like a good little ricer.
Or you could probably pull enough power to handle a few LEDs off the same USB cable you use for the data.
OP you're probably better off going with a Seimitsu stick and using a four-way restrictor.
So I have an arcade stick-related question I'm hoping /vr/ can help with. In the past I picked up two sets of Hori Hayabusa buttons from Arcadeshock and they are some of the best buttons I've ever used. On these Hayabusas the plunger almost floats atop the button and the button shell visibly presses in directly at the point of contact with the finger instead of lowering the whole shell down evenly to actuate the switch the way most buttons do. They also actuate at the slightest press. I later picked up a Hori RAP Kai with a busted mobo and it had another set of Hayabusa buttons on it which are completely different, and act more similarly to their Sanwa counterparts.
Basically, was there a revision for the Hayabusa buttons at some point? Or is it something else? These aren't Kuros either, all of these buttons were labeled Hayabusa.
>>3935232
If you want good quality buttons, they don't light up.
You think you want to have light up buttons, but they suck. They're for fucking mame cabs.
Replace your buttons with Sanwa, or Seimetsu buttons.
They sell arcade kits with usb boards on aliexpress for $30-50.
Are there any open-source arcade controller PCBs that do not require soldering, where I can just plug in harnesses like these?
Anyone put pinball buttons w/ leaf switches on the side of their arcade controls? With an accelerometer inside for analog nudging?
Also, 1000 Hz USB polling with USB keyboard encoder / board / PCB — but where does "debounce" come in (artificially introduced lag to prevent multiple keypresses)? Keys-at-once limit?
I made this out of a bamboo tea box i got off Amazon for $18
https://www.amazon.com/Lipper-International-8188-Bamboo-Storage/dp/B000MM79X2
Just remove the internal partitions and replace the shitty clasp it comes with with some nicer brass ones.
I also replaced the hinges with brass as well.
>>3937035
I used a Sanwa JLF stick, and Sanwa OBLF buttons.
DB25 for Neo Geo and Supergun use on the left.
Ethernet for Toodles MC board, which handles PC, PS3, NES, SNES, PC Engine, Dreamcast, Saturn, etc.
Because it's a box. I can store all the the custom ethernet cables for my various consoles inside it when it's not in use.
>>3932358
Came here to post this.
Absolutely fucking amazing resource, that.
>>3932220
>Sanwa is for fightan fags, it's a trash choice for SHMUPS or most games you'd play on a MAME setup.
I disagree.
The right gate and spring make a sanwa stick work just fine.
Friendly reminder that the MC Cthulhu is 25 burgerbucks now, and that with a very simple mod it can allow you to use one stick for almost all /vr/ consoles as well as PC.
>>3935232
https://paradisearcadeshop.com/button-leds/582-pele-24mm-led-rings.html
>>3937479
But I don't want to solder shit.
>>3938127
Then buy a premade stick. You aren't up to the task of making your own. Honestly, I could point you to a PIC dev board that has headers for all the IO pins and would require no soldering. And it would cost a fraction of what the MC Cthulhu costs. But if you can't even solder a few wires what's the point? You'd have to order it and might poke yourself in the eye with your moms credit card in the process. I don't want to be responsible for making someone partially blind when they're already retarded.
>>3938127
Here you go.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=11IE19BEPN2YM&coliid=I159GCS27OTA6Z
>>3938257
I know how to solder shit, dumbass. But it's inconvenient compared to how easy you can just plug in a harness, especially considering how easily you could replace them as opposed to "fuck, it's soldered on."
>>3938127
It's a really easy solder job though. And you can find cables for the big /vr/ consoles pre-made now if you don't want to make those yourself.
>>3938289
>i can't solder 4 wires
>you're the dumbass
Top kek kid. If you had half a brain and did know how to solder you'd just solder in connectors if you wanted to change things around later. You're not fooling anyone champ.
>>3937056
That's pretty cool, man.
Congratulations!
>>3937479
>MC Cthulhu
>>3937002
Making something like that is easy as fuck if you're not a mongoloid.
>>3928947
so when you say a 4-way stick... you want a stick that can ONLY go up, down, left, and right, and NOT any combination of those? (Up and left at the same time)
If that's what you want then it's easy as shit. Majority of the stock sanwa sticks come with a sqare gate that can be rotated to be more of a diamond shape, which will only allow the 4 directions.