I just bought a CRT and it has a couple of problems that I don't

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distortion

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artifacts

>>3406469

The geometry is fucked. Google the model number and see if you can find a service manual pdf for your CRT. Look through it and find how to access the service menu. Write down the linearity and geometry settings BEFORE you fuck with them, then fuck with them until things look right. If you can't find out how to get to the service menu, then the only other option is to open your crt up and do it manually, but this is dangerous as fuck.

This should fix the image being titled and the distortions. Artifacts are probably because you're using composhit.

>>3406469
If you can't get into the service menu, you're shit outta luck. Consumer CRTs are guaranteed to trigger your autism.

I need the remote to access the service menu but I don't have it. Am I fucked?

>>3406549
You should be able to use a universal if it has the right buttons. Or a something like a phone with an ir blaster

So I looked through the service menu and there's nothing there for the rotation. There were size, position, and cutoff options but nothing to adjust the tilt. I guess my only option is to open it up, but I probably won't be doing that.

Looks like composite to me.

Also consumer sets almost never have perfect geometry

>>3406778
Turn the overscan up a tiny bit and you wont be able to notice tilt

you dont want to rotate the yoke and fuck the convergence up too

Look for the tilt correction option in the menu. My 27" Trinitron had a slanted image and it helped fix it.

>>3406778
>So I looked through the service menu and there's nothing there for the rotation
You could rotate the yoke on the CRT tube but that's almost guaranteed to fuck the purity and convergence and maybe give you a shock.

>>3406469
>There's also some weird distortion going on in places and artifacts near pixels
Literally features

How dangerous is opening up a CRT anyway? If you're just modding for RGB do you have to mess with anything near the electron gun and the 25,000 volts of death or is the control board generally separate and isolated from that and the flyback transformer?

>>3406940
>the control board generally separate and isolated from that and the flyback transformer?
For almost all TVs made from the mid/late-90s and forward this is the case. It is still wise to check whether your set has a hot chassis, though.

>>3406945
I picked up a CRT off the side of the road the other day and tweaked the picture settings until they look nice(in my opinion) but I'm still kinda interested in RGB. I managed to find the service manual for the chassis after a little bit searching around but I'm afraid of even getting near the back of that thing with anything metal. It does also have S-Video so I could pussy out and go with that instead.

>>3406957
The chassis PCB should have printed lines separating the hot and cold parts of the chassis. In particular, the area around and below the flyback transformer has tens of thousands of volts. The other area with high voltage is below the anode cup.

I'd try it first with s-video to see how I like it.

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>>3406998
Yeah I think I'll probably end up settling on s-video in the end to save myself the trouble.

Here's what I was looking at in the service manual though. It looks like the RGB "input" is being used by the OSD so if you disconnect the lines coming from the chip on the left and attach something else in its place then it should work(I think).

>>3407027
Check the datasheet of the LA76814 chip to see whether it accepts analog or digital RGB and the voltage levels it expects. By the presence of the capacitors I'd guess it uses analog RGB. The only other thing would be to find the pin that selects between the regular video and the OSD. It is probably pin 17 on your picture.

>>3407085
So 17 should be left alone then? I'm not terribly familiar with this stuff I assumed it was the sync signal for the RGB.

>>3407124
>So 17 should be left alone then?
No, you it usually needs to be either ground or Vcc depending on whether you want to display the OSD or the regular video. To know which is which you need to check the data sheet.
The OSD chip usually has inputs for the vertical and horizontal sync signals to know when to blank in order to draw a letter. When it's time to draw it sends a signal either low or high to the other chip so that it draws the OSD and blanks the regular video. What you want to do is to always blank the regular video so that the RGB signal that you injected is displayed.

For synchronisation you can just use composite video or luma.

>>3407124
>>3407027
Here's the service manual for the CRT plus the datasheet for the chip if you want to take a look at it.

http://www117.zippyshare.com/v/VbWspiBE/file.html

Schematics are a bit too wide for me to take a clear screenshot.

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>>3407131
for some reason that datasheet doesn't have the pinout but I found one that does