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Previous >>6406071 → This thread is for the discuss

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Previous >>6406071

This thread is for the discussion of scale model kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs/


Have a question about a kit? Check out:
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/ and look for the review section.
>>
>>6435851
>>6435856
You linked it good, so get a bump.
Someone waiting for some kits or something?
I have a huge order that should be here Tuesday or so with the leopard revolution and the aml90 and misc stuff
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>>6435874
still looking at kits and materials for the mig-21 build I want to make next

Here's my slav truck in the meanwhile
>>
Packed up all my models for the move. No kits for another month :( :( :(
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Next projects, FT-17 and PZ I on 1/72!
I want to park them next to my Leclerc and Leo2.
>>
>>6435851
>>6426386
>>6426313
Pre-shading could be used, or post-shading. All kinds of weathering (streaks, fading, chipping, soot, etc). Panel lining/washes, though that probably won't be completely new.

https://www.mediafire.com/?hcw7ddcn8zmajc9
and
https://www.mediafire.com/?oa3q53s32khg3sh
might help, but since most weathering can be applied to both aircraft and ground vehicles most of the stuff here may be of interest:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/971c66wpst1pe/Weather (some of the rest do have the occasional aircraft as well)

Prices? I dunno. Bandai's 1/72 Star Wars "aircraft" don't seem all that cheap. Are you them things to larger 1/48 aircraft?
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>>6436003
I love these polish kits, they are cheap simple kits with few parts but with amazing detail (revell-tier in my opinion), and they focus on rarely found early war vehicles. They even come with this huge magazine with photos and info (in polish).
Absolutely recommended for 1/72 fags.
>>
>>6436004
Any particular reason for reposting my post?

>>6436009
Well, I guess I will be building an FT-17 at some point. Any year now...
>>
>>6426313
>Scale model planes more expensive than Gunpla
Wat? I would say gunpla kits are at least twice the price than plastic kits.

>Techniques
Pre-shading is hard to master in my opinion. There is a youtuber that pre-shades using a graphite pencil, gonna try to find it.
For the easy yet effective stuff, there is washes, which are really effective due to the panel lines. There is also dry brushing, not sure how it works with planes tho.
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>>6436016
I built a 7TP twin turret, (Yukari's favorite), tiny tank for 1/72 but lots of fun.
>>
>>6436016
>Any particular reason for reposting my post?
it has links to magazines. duh...
>>
>>6435903
Someone mentioned the zvedza one, eduard also makes nice plane kits too (from an afv fag view) if you want to check them out as they include PE, masks and other stuff. If I ever return to planes I'm thinking of getting some eduard kit to practice for a hasegawa 1/32 ME109 tropical (the marseille one) that I have buried in the wardrobe, not even in the stash poor thing.
>>6436009
>>6436025
Those kits look really good for a wargaming thing but
>1/72
>polish only extra goodies
welp.
Also I'm still mad that yukari fav is that piece of hipster garbage and not some teuton perfection of the tiger I or II
>>6436020
>I would say gunpla kits are at least twice the price than plastic kits.
????
I'm not into gunpla but I did a graze and it costed me 30€ in a physical store so that includes a really heavy weeb tax and most where priced like that. There might be more expensive ones I guess but looks like a pretty cheap modeling hobby
>>
>>6436130
Yea even master grades are like 150. That's really not bad at all
>>
>>6436152
Dunno if ironic or not. 150 on average is what big ship and plane modelers budget I think (what I would do anyway), in my case (1/35 armor) I would say 70 on average
>>
>>6436158
I'm just saying the best of the best gunpla are 150 but a nice 1/350 ship can easily cost more. A lot of resin/ma k kits are even more expensive
>>
So I just found out that Alclad II Klear Kote is enamel based, does that make a difference as opposed to lacquer? I wanted a lacquer varnish specifically because it's more durable, but I'm not going to waste the gloss and matte top coats i just got
>>
>>6436171
How in God's name do MG gundam kits cost that much over there? Even the Sazabi ver Ka can be bought for under $100 here
>>
>>6436130
Tamiya 1/72 F-16CJ ~20USD
Tamiya 1/48 F-16CJ ~27USD
Revell 1/48 Tornado F.3 ADV ~33USD
Wingsy Kits 1/48 IJN A5M2b with interior detail and photo-etched ~48 USD

Average Gundam MG Kit 30-70 USD

As far as plastic goes planes are way cheaper, unless you are investing in some fancy kit and aftermarket stuff, and/or a huge scale. And even then I assume the same could be said about gundams.
>>
>>6436130
Kits are great for 7USD, being a 1/72fag I love them. Also:

>Yukari
>Hipster tank Fairy
>Picking something as pleb and mainstream as a Tiger.
Cmon man, what did you expect.
I wanted to get Miho's PzII, but they run out of them.
>>
>>6436208
I was referring to big planes (it seemed only to ships maybe) and most new-ish 1/48 kits are +50€ and 1/32 is even more expensive and usually accompanied by a ton of aftermarket as something that big needs a game step up.

For what I've seen in this thread gundams aren't really that expensive as it seems that big=expensive is what they have going on (similar to military models). Anyway each to his own, if he stick to 1/72 it's gonna be cheap if he wants to go bigger then he'll need to increase his budget
>>6436217
Still, I will never get over it. Also now that I think about gup I'm mildly upset about Erika having a fucking sturmtiger as a fav, at least nonna and erwin have some fucking good taste.
>>
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Still hopeful that a PDF scan is floating around somewhere.
>>
>>6436428
There's a fucking ton of other books and vids about the tiger I and II, if you wan this one so much just buy it
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>>6436444
>>
Just found some FSM mags online and I'm super inspired
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DuallyAnon here!
Master cylinder made up, somewhat. It's a small space in the truck and its like AMT just said fuck it with the engine bay. So I'm making brake lines and the coils for them also. This mounts to the firewall.
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>>6436759
Here is the truck. The decals are not so good, but that's ok. It will give me a chance to build another, probably paint them on next time.
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>>6436245
Sturmtiger is badass. I expected it to be Yukari's favorite.
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>>6436763
yeh decals are a pain in the arse, i rarely do them on the body work unless they are small logos and number plates,

my 99' rally wrc's decals turned out ok but the door handles and creases of the doors ruined em
>>
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Finally got started on my Prinz Eugen that's been lying around for over half a year. Almost finished painting the decks.
>>
>>6437081
That's a nice looking kit, great details. Is that the Trumpeter version? 1/700 or 1/350?
>>
>>6437081
This >>6437568
That looks really good.
>>
>>6437081
Yum
>>
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Done, I think, with the flashy bits of paintjob. Now it's just ten thousand nails to paint before it's time to mix up a bucket of burnt umber wash.
>>
>>6437847
Holy crap. That is impressive, bud!
>>
>>6437847
I would rather kill myself than do that, good job.
>>
>>6437847
Wow!
>>
Disclaimer: I am a fairly new /toy/ lurker and very new to scale models specifically. I built a kit fighter jet as a kid a long time ago, that's the extent of my experience with this.

Could someone tell me what/how this is built:
http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=103987

I found a kit for the first pic on some weeb site (http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10078498) but it seems like all the parts are already colored out of the box. Is that first pic in the link a kit that was painted anyway, I assume for better quality? I'd like to build something like that cause I think those gundams look pretty badass, but not sure where to begin/how they're typically done. Any insight is appreciated, and if this belongs in a different thread let me know.
>>
>>6437957
>but it seems like all the parts are already colored out of the box. Is that first pic in the link a kit that was painted anyway, I assume for better quality?

Yeah, kits like that usually use multi-coloured plastic so the kids can skip painting and it'll still have kinda the right colour scheme. However, there's a hard limit to how much colour variation and detail you can get that way, and on top of that coloured plastic and paint don't quiet look the same, so getting past "kids snap fit toy" level means painting it yourself.

Due to the way those kits are constructed you'd mostly be spray painting each and every part first, and then putting it all together. I see a few seam lines on that model that ideally shouldn't be there, but which are because he did it that way, and it's a bit of pain in the arse to sand and fill stuff that's already painted. Getting the colour coat over the filled and sanded part just right without fucking something else up...

On the plus side Bandai is pretty good at hiding these seam lines away. The shoulder spikes and jet nozzles there may also be unpainted aluminium.

So cut the parts loose and trim away the nubs. Primer, main paint, varnish, decals, varnish, panel line where suitable, assemble. Carefully photograph it so all the bits where the paint has rubbed off doesn't show up...
>>
>>6437957
you want to be http://boards.4chan.org/toy/thread/6434325#bottom
if your interest is gundams.
but I assume some are pre coloured plastic.
you cut them off the sprue, wet sand the nubs off.
some probably are painted, since they do gundam paints.

the one on the box that looks built, that's been pre shaded, they use an airbrush to darken edges and make it look more realistic.
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>>6437957
>>6434325
>>
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Fuck this damn Dually. It's done but the AMT stuff from the 90s isn't known for its quality. It was fun. On to the next one. Each one I get a little better.
>>
>>6437975

I wonder how a strong decal setting solution would react with those.
>>
>>6437905
Without an adolescence of Warhammer to prepare me, my mind would probably have snapped along the way. Now luckily it came pre-spanned, but even so having some photos from the big model in the museum instead of Revell's black and white painting instructions is pretty much necessary I've found. 21 different colours shown through various dot patterns? Yeah, no, fuck that.
>>
>>6437977
I used micro set/sol and it was almost useless. Any other suggestions?
>>
>>6437990

Solvaset is much hotter, I reckon that would get them to sit. You may also want to try cutting the little ridged on the decals with a fresh blade and add more solution on top of that.
>>
>>6437992
Ahh, thanks Anon! I'll get some. The blade I used was new-ish, but I think maybe it was just the nature of the decals. New ones I've never had a problem with. Older ones are always a pain.
>>
>>6437975
I like the case but goddamn those decals are bad
>>
>>6437970
>>6437971
>>6437973
Thanks. Yeah, I'd seen that general before but wasn't sure if they were more about the toys themselves, or the building process as well. Just took a look and yeah, definitely builds/painting going on in there.

Gonna be doing some research over the next couple weeks and probably pick up a kit and some paint and stuff and try it out. I honestly can't believe how cheap some of those kits are... although if my experience with DIY *anything* is any indication, the paint and other accessories will run you far more than the kit itself. Good thing I have a job :]
>>
>>6438047
Gundam is pretty cheap, depending of what you buy of course, and scale models are a relatively cheap hobby (compared to cars/motorbikes, guns or shit like that) but the further you go down the hole the more you will invest.
An airbrush set up... Some new paints... weathering stuff... Oh, another [X] that you have in the stash already but this new one looks better... All that aftermarket for all those awesome projects that you will never do in the end...
You get the idea. But unlike warhammer where the price is dictated for the tabletop value here you get what you pay for most of the time.
Also money doesn't buy skill so this hobby will keep you quite entertained if you end liking it
>>
>>6438031
Went for a 90s vibe. Wish they turned out better.
>>
>>6437568
>>6437614
>>6437759
Thanks. It's the 1/700 Trumpeter kit, and yes, the kit has great details out of the box. A bit worried about the rest of the build though since I only have some basic brushes and Tamiya acrylics that I'm not used to working with.
>>
>>6438226
You did a fantastic job on the deck, especially for just using brushes. Legit looks like a wood deck
>>
>>6437081
Are the chains molded into the deck? How crisp are those details?
>>
>>6436003
Is the company called First to Fight or is that some series the company releases?
>>
>>6438337
I also used a Gundam marker to accentuate the crevasses. Just hoping I won't mess up the paint job on the hull.
>>6438406
Yes they're molded on to the deck. Details are pretty crisp imo. My dad built the 1/350 version a while ago and I think this kit isn't that much less detailed which is impressive considering the scale.
>>
>>6435851
Look, I get that you're really proud of this, but can we get a OP image from the previous thread?
>>
>>6438902
It is from the previous thread.
>>
>>6438905
Fucking kill me

Still, I've seen it more than a couple of times already
>>
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Nail nail nail nailnailnailnailnailnai... one side to go https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Fn36l_z3WY
>>
>>6438910
The last thread didnt have any new completed kit pics and this guy was the only one posting finished shots
>>
>>6439111
Are you adding all those nails by hand? Jesus christ... Looking forward to seeing it finished.
Lycka till
>>
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Newest kit that I just got. Moebius models Ford F100 Ranger. Such a crisp new kit. New tooling and the plastic is so nice. Should be a good build. Did the frame last night, will upload photos when I get home. Thanks for looking guys. Appreciated the comments on the dually even though it might not have been your thing.
>>
>>6439590
All I want is a 2008 chevy suburban model so I can make a model of my work truck
>>
>>6439639
We have been trying for a while to get newer truck models made. No luck yet. But I'm there with you, bud. The newest truck model is a new raptor.
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>>6439668
>there will never be a model of most of the shitboxes people drive
I JUST WANT TO BUILD A REGULAR CAR GOD DAMN IT
>>
>>6439795
I have a Geo Storm model...
>>
>>6439111
Which kit is this again?
>>
>>6440055
Revell's take on what just may be the worst warship ever built, the Vasa.
>>
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Here is the front half of the frame. Super detailed.
The best I-beam suspension I've ever seen
Motor mounts, I've never seen a kit with motor mounts, the mounts that hold the engine to the frame
The detail is amazing.
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>>6440244
Bumping with more photos
>>
>>6438337
>>6438554
Wait, is the deck painted? I though it was one of those aftermarket wood decks. That's impressive.
>>
>>6438418
Apparently the company is "First to Fight", but that's the only serie they made.
I saw they also included the TKS and Pz35t, which is pretty cool, but sadly no Pz38t was really looking for one.
>>
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>you're a big box
>for you
Finally here, this is going to take a bit to unpack
>>
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>>6441370
Well, it was pretty fast. This is what I can show for now. I'm gonna take some pics of sprues and color schemes, if someone what's them just ask so I don't flood the thread
>>
>>6441377
What is on top of the pile to the right? Decals? Looks like a good haul.
>>
>>6441377
Can you scan that weathering magazine
>>
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>>6441377
>ちさい aml90
>>6441389
It's just a huge ass sticker and some product pamphlets, they always put this and some freebies (sticker). Last ones where a catalog, a pin and a paint, it's a nice detail.
>>6441395
I can't be arsed to scan the whole thing but I can scan/photograph articles you need, I'll post the index in a bit so y'all can choose. I haven't looked at it yet but seems to have a lot of small articles this time
>>
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>>6441412
Here's the index. This time I bought it in Spanish just because but I can translate what you need.
>>
>>6441412
...of various sizes,
>>
>>6441395
You can find pdfs online
>>
>>6438226

Get some Mr Color Leveling Thinner, it's lacquer but it does wonder with Tamiya Acrylics even when brush painted.
>>
>>6441428
not him but I think modulating cammo would be an interesting addition to thread knowledge

>>6441469
they only go upto issue 13.
>>
>>6440318
>>6440244

Get rid of those parting lines, yo.
>>
>>6441436
I feel like I got bambozled with the aml as the three are 1/35 but that thing looks 1/48.
>>6441472
I have to drop some papers at the hospital and the uni so when I come back I'll post the modulation one
>>
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>>6441493
Okay the scanner doesn't want to cooperate so fuck it.
The text doesn't really say much, mainly about the color used and be careful and do near transparent layers. But I can translate it if someone really needs it.
>>
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>>6441670
Okay, let's see if flipping it will upload it right
>>
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>>6441678
k.
>>
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>>6441681
>>
>>6441670
thanks man, what is the camouflage colour article?
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>>6441377
""review"" of the Takom AML-90, gotta get a fucking better camera as zooming in is just grain and pixel hell but you can see enough.
https://imgur.com/a/BVlws

I'm doing the leopard one now and will post it latter.
>>6441725
No problem, but I would like to scan it so it can be seen better but whatever.
The one in the pag 31? is color profile and examples article with some notes about some patterns. Really generic and more of a brief view for those that don't know much about them and inspiration. It includes WWI and WWII only.
>>
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>>6441470
Thanks for the tip, I'll see if I can find it here
>>
>>6441758
oh okay thanks I don't think it is necessary to scan cammo article, I don't there is anything in there now that cannot be found elsewhere.
disc cammo, white washing all can be found around internet somewhere.
>>
>>6441412
Huh, that's pretty cool. I'm gonna have to check them out.
>>
>>6441758
And the leopard one https://imgur.com/a/xrTAj.
Now I have to finish the Char 2C and then the King tiger tracks before starting one of this new ones.
>>
>>6441470

What paint:thinner ratio would you use with that combination?
>>
>>6439815
A scale plastic model?
>>
>>6441882
1/25 scale
>>
>>6441473
I'm on it!
>>
I'm never built a model before, but I'm really into Ancient Rome. Can you recommend any model kits for like ancient Roman ships or buildings or military camps or something like that?
>>
>>6442342
if u go to the scalemates link in the op, select kits and search roman it will bring some stuff up.
>>
>>6442343
Thanks a bunch!

And don't worry, eventually, one of these days, someone will come along who will actually read OP before posting.

But not today.
>>
Has anyone ever printed their own decals? Does the testors decal paper work? Some decals are thicker and thinner than others.
>>
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I'm being pretty lazy with this monogram phantom
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>>6442755
I had to get the radio operator from another shelfwarmer kit

F16 pilots are manlets
>>
>>6441770
Where are you located? If it's in the U.S. hit up Matthew Bole from Hobbyworld USA. He even does customs free intl shipping.
>>
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Beginner airbrusher here. This is as smooth as i can get my (extremely light) first coat of tamiya acrylic green, 50% thinned at 20 PSI - any less pressure or any thicker and the paint doesn't atomise correctly, but any thinner and the paint doesn't stock to the plastic. I've tried vallejo primer but it was way too thick.

The flecks disappear with subsequent coatings, but I'm not sure how to stop them appearing the first time.

How "finished" should i expect the model to look at the very beginning? I've read that translucency is fine but I'm not sure about paint texture.
>>
>>6442885
I can achieve a opaque coating with 1 layer using tamiya acrylics. I usually use more than 1:1 ratio of paint to thinner
>>
>>6442885
What type of airbrush are you using? You'll only get a well atomized light coat if you use a more quality airbrush.

I think there's a general consensus here that Vallejo primer is garbage and that you should go with either Tamiya Can primer or Badger Stynylrez primer.

Is there any reason you want to start with a very light thinned coat? Personally if I want a extra smooth coat with Tamiya flat acrylics I start off with a base of badger stynylrez primer, the I spray it with tamiya flat acrylics thinned with lacquer thinner(the Isopropyl hinner they offer is garbage) and with a drop of retarder, thus allowing for a continuous wet and even surface of paint. All the painting - for at least a base coat - is done in one session.

for best results I use a airbrush with a wide tip and needle set (.7mm to 1mm)
>>
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>>6441469
>>6441472
[spoiler]https://www.mediafire.com/folder/971c66wpst1pe/Weather[/spoiler]
>>
>>6442834
I'm in Yokohama so if it's a quite common thinner I guess they should be selling it here.
>>
>>6443243
that fills in the gaps in my collection nicely thanks
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>>6443145
Badger Patriot 105, stock tip.

Online I've heard the mantra "spray many light coats" a thousand times, but never any description of how heavy or thick is ideal. I assumed that if the (flat) paint is thick enough to show reflections, it's probably pooling and you've gone too far.

I tried Tamiya can primer last summer, but it sputtered tiny droplets along the edge of the spray as if I was spraying straight unthinned paint. I got frustrated and gave up after spraying at different distances, since that was the only variable I knew how to alter.

Spraying a thick coat mostly covered up the droplets but I was worried that would affect surface detail, in hindsight maybe you're supposed to spray the coat thick enough that the primer levels itself out?
>>
>>6443414
Never had issues with tamiya primer, just lay it on slightly thicker. I have the same issues with my Patriot and I'm beginng to wonder if a new airbrush would help
>>
Does anyone make dioramas? Like for your tanks, cars, planes, etc.
>>
>>6443689
I'm in the middle of planning and executing one at the moment, but it will be a while away before it's finished
>>
>>6443727
Cool, what are you making?

Also I got this Bell Systems van. It's a coin bank, I'm not sure what to do with it. It's either 1/24 or like 1/20 but it's cool.
>>
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>>6443735
Helps if I include pic
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>>6443735
I've got a 1/72 King Tiger crossing a small stream over a narrow stone bridge. Not sure if a bridge like the one I'm planning can take 65 tons but we'll see.

>>6443738
You could make a diorama with that, but I wouldnt put so much effort into a subject which is not very detailed. Also it might make it hard to use as a coin bank
>>
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Wash and varnish, and with that the main hull's painted. Off to paint various doodads to stick on it.
>>
>>6443744
I thought about maybe painting it to look like an old garage band van. And the bridge idea sounds really cool, I've never attempted anything like that. I have made a couple of garages before.
>>
>>6443758
This thing is crazy.
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>>6443689
Yes. Normally simple but I'm going to start doing more intricate ones
>>
>>6443828

There's a reason it fell over and sank basically straight away.
>>
>>6443887
As a word of advice to anyone else feeling inspired here (apart from urging you to see psychiatric help, I may have to dredge up my mind from Strömmen before this is over) is to toss in a lot of ballast before gluing to hull together. The model is decidedly top-heavy as it is, and there's plenty of height left to be added. Hopefully it'll stop falling over quite so much at least not that I've finally glued the stand in place underneath it.
>>
>>6442885
>>6443414
A lot of factors and settings affect airbrushing to give a definite solution.
I have the same airbrush and base all my models with vallejo grey primer without problems. Check needle/nozzle for obstructions. Also play with the pressure too.
You can decant spray cans and use the liquid with your airbrush too, mr surface primer is quite good too.
>>6443145
>a general consensus here that Vallejo primer is garbage
Careful there, pardner
>>6443758
That's a project I wouldn't touch, never ever, I salute you anon
>>6443689
Only done three, two rather bad and one that was okay. Planing one to base the card 2c but nothing too spectacular, just a road and some grass
>>
>>6443414
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2QPqwDV2ys&t=499s&ab_channel=PaulBudzik

Now obviously we can't call get large spray airbrushes but the same idea remains, a wet coat makes it more even rather than small ones with a lot of overspray and dry paint drops, I believe that the Patriot 105 has a rather large tip of .6mm so spray a lot of paint shouldn't be an issue.

With that said you should have problems spraying light coats with a Patriot 105, I agree with >>6443906
check if you have any obstruction problems or if the needle is bent.

And try a lacquer thinner, alcohol thinners dry way to quickly and won't allow for paint to even out, many times alcohol dries so quickly that it start's drying from the time it leaves the airbrush and before it hits your model, this results in a sandy paint layer(which might be the underlying problem to begin with)
>>
>>6444046
>which might be the underlying problem to begin with

Judging by the pic his problem is insufficient atomisation, he gets huge droplets of paint that created a spotted surface rather than a semi-translucent on.
>>
>>6443906
I refuse to believe that you think vallejo primer is good.

It shows all the detail don't get me wrong, but oppose to badger primer, or Mr. Surface, or Tamiya primer it's nothing special.

However the full curing time is way too long and I find that one needs to flood the model to get an even surface(with that said it's better than a can spray in that sense) but it's most terrible to make corrections on, it's un-sandable: it just peals when you put any sandpaper to it, so forget about making any corrections on some fuzzy areas or imperfections.
>>
>>6444046
>>6444083
that pic is straight-from-the-can Tamiya primer, not paint
>>
>>6444083
yeah, when looking at the second picture, atomization is probably a big part of it. With that said even the parts painted on thicker still look very sandy which might also suggest that it's drying way too fast.

I think he/she needs to change his thinner to paint ratio for atomization, I know they said that any thinner and it won't stick to the plastic, which would suggest that they needs a better primer
>>
>>6444097
I would suggest you either cover up the model more completely with tamiya can primer, allowing for a wide wet coat - this won't affect the result, it will dry evenly showing all the details.

Or switch to the badger primer, which is very forgiving in when spaying.
>>
With the kind of metallics that are basically metallic flakes in a solvent that you spray on top of a gloss black base, how good of a coverage over the black base should I aim for?

I'm having a hard time getting what looks like a complete, "100%" coverage with AK xtreme metal chrome, and while it looks fantastic at a distance it looks a bit bad up close.
>>
>>6444093
Yeah I do, I can post the builds if you want but that's not what you questioned nor I think it's necessary.
Main drawback is that's not sandable, which you can but you need a different approach. Before priming is wash the models and take a good look at them, this catches 70-80% of the imperfections, and then clean it again. Then I start to prime doing mist layers, if I see a part that needs correction I wait some hours and then fill/sand/cut/whatever and spray some air to clean it up and continue the priming until its all uniform. But honestly I rarely need to do that as I try to build better.
I suppose that not everyone would want to do that (sounds more work that what really is tho) and just prefer to spray away and then see what happened.
What I like is the easiness to clean, use and finish quality. I have mr surfacer and I liked it quite a bit but I won't make it my main as is a pita to clean and handle
>>
>>6444218
I mean if it works for you, that's all that really matters.

Have you tried badger primer by any chance?
>>
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#throwbackthursday
>>
>>6439795
The hand me down car me, and all of my brothers drove back in the day was an 88 ford Taurus. On a whim I looked up whether or not it had a kit, and they actually did release one for the suped up sports car edition, identical in appearance outside of the engine. Going to build it as a group christmas present.
>>
>>6444787

I saw this kit at my local store.

Nice job anon.
>>
>>6444919
Neat. Too bad there are no kits of Audi 80 B2s or B3s or any euro shitbox for that matter
>>
>>6443414
oh shit, is this normal for a badger to speckle that much? did you thin this paint/primer? even my chinese 0.5 doesn't shit that much.
>>
>>6444787
nice that looks awesome
>>
>no kits of x car

you could always get a used 1/18 scale diecast and repaint it.

>>6444787
I would have glossed the squid thing, just to make it look wet and slimy.
>>
>>6445406
The picture is straight from-the-can Tamiya primer. Forums say it should work fine after a vigorous shaking but there must be some magical ingredient I'm missing because I've never managed to get anything other than a pebbly mess out of my can.

I suppose I could decant and manually thin/spray the primer, but I've come dangerously close to fucking up my airbrush trying to spray primer and would rather not risk it until i'm more competent.
>>
>>6445459
>I suppose I could decant and manually thin/spray the primer, but I've come dangerously close to fucking up my airbrush trying to spray primer and would rather not risk it until i'm more competent.
you can't fuck up your airbrush with anything unless it's lava or aqua regia. just thin the primer with lacquer thinner.
>>
>>6445459

primer should be shot through 0.5mm tip needle.

if its grainy youre probably holding it too far away, it should go on glossy and even.

you can warm the can up first in quite hot water, that doesn't help it spray better.
>>
>>6445480
>that doesn't

I meant that does.
>>
>>6444605
Yeah in the end is what it matters, but as people are quick to jump on a bandwagon I wanted to say that it's not bad and you can give it a chance with the small bottles (the ones that are like regular color paints also have primers, handy if you want to try the colored primera but don't want a huge bottle).
Nope, they don't sell it here at least in my lhs or the ones online that I use the most. I wanted to try it along the ammo mig "one shot" to see what's up with them.
>>
>>6445483
badger primer is now ultimate primer.
>>
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Some shitty pictures of the slight progress on my Prinz Eugen. None of the parts are actually glued together though.
>>
>>6445484
only in britbongistan.
>>
Can someone tell me how to brush paint Tamiya? It's literally all I have access to, and I can't seem to get it right. Would it be worth looking into their paint retarder? Also how long should I let things coats dry before adding another coat?
>>
>>6445818
Trying their paint retarder is a good idea. Their alcohol-based solvents tend to bugger off into the air frighteningly fast as it is. You may also want to experiment with various thinning mediums. Many think water is heresy of the highest order, I'm not so sure. Denatured alcohol, their own thinner, maybe even windshield wiper fluid. Try shit, see if it works, move on if it doesn't.

How long you need to let things dry will vary with the weather. If the previous coat starts dissolving then you were too quick. Thinner coats will also be kinder to the paint underneath, less solvents around to eat their way down.

And consider mail order. You can get other paints.
>>
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Slow and steady, painting this is getting on my nerves
>still need to finish retouching the paint job
>fucking grills still give me troubles and look like ass in the spots I keep trying to repair
>paint all details
>it wasn't a good idea to glue everything as things that take 5mins now will be hellish to paint and weather (the mufflers specially)
>no decals
>no varnish
>no weathering
>the base is not even started
>and this should be finished for past tomorrow
Fugg :DDD
>>6445484
I take a quick look but none carry it, still have half a big bottle of Grey, a medium one in black from Vallejo and a whole jar of mr surfacer and a spray can of chaos black warhammer primer so it will be a while until I buy a primer.
>>6445818
Honestly I should have painted this with tamiya acrylics as they works perfectly in high humidity and hot climates in insight.
As someone who painted all his early models with cans and brushes with tamiya paints my tip is to work wet, as in covering in one pass and let it cure. For the next layer 30 min or so depending of a lot of things, for thinning (I didn't do it but neither I knew better) use the x20a or find some isopropyl alcohol, mr leveling thinner has been used by some but I'm not exactly sure so search online
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>>6445838
And the tricky masking system
>>
>>6445483
I've tried the ammo mig one, it's pretty much an exact copy of vallejos, or I think they are both polyurethane based.

It sucks you can't get it, but I understand it's pretty new to the market still
>>
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This is my Mack DM600. It's going to be an old beater semi. Formerly owned by a construction company then bought by a farmer who let it go to ruins.
>>
Anyone built a ww1 or prior ship?
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So I just watched Dunkirk.
I am not usually a plane person, that said, what 1/72 spitfire kit do you recommend?
>>
>>6446950
If it's your first:
Airfix 1/72 Spitfire mkI or mkIa/mkII or mkVa these are all the same kit with small details different. I assume you want early war so these should be good.

Don't get the Mk IX or especially the Vb if you happen to find it.
>>
Anyone do extensive scratchbuilds?
>>
>>6446950
the airfix MkIa is pretty straightforward and the moldings are nice
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKfeeh65h6U
you might be able to find it in a starter kit pack which comes with both paints and glues (basic, but will set you up properly)
>>
>>6447525
I plan to in the future, build things using cad, die cut plasticard and a few 3d printed bits that would be difficult to make otherwise.

im on this atm.
>>6416995
>>6416996
quite a bit of scratch building involved because its a older kit.

I know a few other people here have modified a few things.
>>
>>6447525
Scratch built a frame for a couple trucks, and mirrors too.
>>
Any Ma.k fags here?
>>
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Tiny d-day diorama I did today
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>>6448211
Still looks awful m8

>>6448173
Not yet but I've got a Camel I wanna start soon
>>
>>6448211
shit as the last time you posted it.
>>
>>6448211
Are those still jaggy pieces of the sprue on there? Dude, you gotta at least TRY to sand them down
>>
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Gun port doors for the Vasa. very single one with a big, fat sink mark in the middle. Luckily on the outside, and I'll have them open, but as they're going to be sitting roughly 45 degrees above horizontal it won't be completely hidden either.

But hey, it's only fifty six of the little bastards of them if I decide I gotta fix it.
>>
>>6448408
just fix em lad, gotta put 100% in if you want to results.
I did my tank tracks, even tho they would harly be seen, it bothered me, I knew they were there.
>>
>>6448408
You could fix 8 and recast them 7 times
>>
>>6448743
That actually seems like a cool idea, he should do it
>>
>>6448211
Rust effect for the obstacle, flesh wash for the soldiers face and hands.
>>
>>6448173
I have a knock off resin pilot I was messing around with but the original sculpt wasn't quite crisp and having it recast just made it look worse. I haven't gone back to it yet though.

>>6448211
Needs some cleaning up prior to assembly. The skin tone could at least use a wash to give the features some depth. At least you got it finished, I guess. Think of it as a stepping stone to greater works.
>>
>>6447288
>>6447549
Sorry, I expressed myself wrong, I do have experience with plastic kits but mostly armor, so I have little knowledge about the quality of the brands when it comes to planes in 1/72. I most curious if there is an specific spitfire kit that you liked.
Airfix 1/72 mk1 seems to be an overall well liked kit, I'll start looking around if I find one. I find it curious since I have had quite bad experiences with the Airfix kits I have tried so far.
>>
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>>6448211
There is still hope.
Clean the gate marks, Jesus. Pic related.
Varnish everything with a gloss varnish, let it dry good, and dark wash the shit out of it.
Dry brush it afterwards with fitting colors.
Flip your photos before posting.
>>
>>6448928
You fucking know that's a translation from the japanese word for them.

They are called gates.
>>
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Finished, or almost finished pic of my first diorama. I've yet to get the flesh wash like you guys have recommended but it's on my list. It's obviously not that good but it's super rewarding to finish my first miniature
>>
>>6448743
>>6448797
Probably a good idea. Unfortunately I don't have anything at hand to do that with, and I don't think I'll go as far as to get it for this. Some experimentation is going on to see if I can find a reasonably quick way of getting it good enough.
>>
>>6449123
God Anon Use a Wash to add depth and detail to the faces and hands and try painting the eyes anon it cant be that hard .BTW anon this is a beach not a pool try creating waves and ripples . Theres loads of tutorial on youtube for you on how to create waves and ripples
>>
>>6449295
>BTW anon this is a beach not a pool try creating waves and ripples . Theres loads of tutorial on youtube for you on how to create waves and ripples

he was given all this advice last time he posted it.
>>
>>6449322
Yet he still didnt do anything to improve it
>>
>>6449123
BTW Anon there are no stones on the beach near the water . The water would break the stone into fine sand stones are usually found behind the beaches and anti tank barricades were dug into the sand not piled with rocks above it
>>
>>6449123
I swear you posted this months ago
>>
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>>6448211
>>6449123
my god, those moldlines
>>
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so, i've tried color modulation for first time. i think it went quite ok(even if its not very visible on that potato photo), but now i have no idea how to get rid of all bleeding and overspray.
>>
>>6449461
you can remove it by taping the red side then spraying the sand color just make sure the tape is thick enough and don't rush .Personally i wouldn't do so cause if you're doing late war scheme there is a high chance that the tank is hand painted so those marks there kinda goes with the theme you're going
>>
>>6449461
What kind of tape are you using?
>>
>>6449322
>>6449362
>>6449386
this is my first time posting any of this
>>
>>6449123
You do not necessarily have to get flesh wash from vallejo sometimes i use rust wash or oif wash it works the same
>>
>>6449524
tamiya, but paint was way to thin.
>>6449492
will try
>>
>>6449461

Turn it to your advantage, use it as a base to do chipping.
>>
>>6449655

THE PLOT THICKENS.
>>
>>6449699
its 1/100. i'm not going to chip so small scale
>>
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>>6448986
They are called nubs, but my post wouldn't fit with Gunpla's Yukari if I didn't.
Pic unrelated, my captcha
>>
>>6448917
the mk Ia is a pretty recent tooling kit so that's the one you should be looking for.
>>
>>6449986
Alright, thanks a lot.
>>
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Quick shot at an old gravel road. Not anywhere near done.
>>
>>6451831
Never mind, I just tossed it in the trash. Poor execution. I will just work on something else.
>>
>>6451884
It doesn't look bad for a work in progress, desu
>>
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Any one has ideas on making a Winter Diorama for modern tanks.Should i do a dug in position or should i just put a few trees covered in snow next to it pic related
>>
>>6452547
You could do a simple presentation or try to tell some kind of story. It could be simple or complicated, totally up to you but it probably helps to be into the idea you're going for.
>>
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>For the Trumpeter 1/35 H.35/38 with Girls und Panzer Yogurt Academy markings

I was going to mash a few different pics together to show/hint at the process involved but my camera ran out of batteries (I swear this camera eats batteries like a kid eats candy around Halloween.)

Anyway, I'm planning on combining a part of a recast head from a 1/35 Yukari figure (I think it might have been a Wonder Fest sculpt because it's not one of the official ones AFAIK) with the injection molded body from a Hasegawa 1/35 MechatroWeGo. With some sculpted parts/modifications.

For the head, I'll be recasting the recast, which is why you see a brass rod sticking out of it in the picture. I'll spray it down with some silicon lubricant as a release and then apply some latex to it for a temporary mold. Planning on carving out the hair and doing some customization, so all I want is the face, which should save me some work and provide some consistency across any other figures I might use/make in terms of presentation.

Regarding the MechatroWeGo figure: I'm pretty sure this is a pretty new kit and the molding is pretty decent and crisp. BUT the fricking feet. I get that it's tricky to nail down details on this part the way it's done but can't help wondering why they didn't just separate the legs or feet. The shoes lost some detail and I had to do a little guess work and carve some out. I bent the feet inwards a bit. I don't think anyone's going to notice the knees don't quite line up, considering the scale.
>>
>>6453309
Follow up: The latex is getting a little old and is firming up some. Hopefully it's soft enough to hold details. Thinking about it, I might consider making a silicon based mold at some point so I can do multiple castings to use in future projects.
>>
>>6453309
Is the blue body a recast or it comes like that? Because "crisp detail" is not what comes to mind id I had to describe it.
>>
>>6453496
It's injection molded (see: Hasegawa) and looks better than what I think you're thinking. That piece is something like 1.25" - 1.5" high. I'll post another pic with better lighting falloff when I manage to get more batteries.
>>
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Got angry with this and ripped the mufflers (I broke a pipe but fuck it), at lest now I can paint them properly. Retouched most of the paint but fuck it I'll leave it like this. Worst paintjob I've ever done, not even my first models looked like this. Vallejo in summer not even once here.
Now I'll put the varnish and then think if I have time to do oil postshading or just going pedal to the metal and finish it already.
>>6453599
I asked because after trying to paint some tamiya tankers, I'll admit that I'm inexperienced and not very good at figures, the lack of definition in faces and clothes makes painting it well a more daunting task.
I like what you did with the hotchkiss so far so I have high hopes with the mini
>>
>>6453679
Yeah, a lot of the Tamiya figs are pretty old now but organics are a pain in the ass for injection molding apparently. The detail quality on this body is a bit better than the Tamiya figs I've messed around with. Granted, there are fewer little details to deal with compared to a military figure (pockets, medals, and other stuff,) so that helps. It does take a little extra work to get that extra 'oomph' out of them, so thank goodness they're plastic and not, say, white metal (pewter/lead/whatever.)
>>
>>6453679
>Vallejo in summer not even once here.

I just had a varnish coat turn frosty on me for the first time. A good month it ain't.
>>
>>6453679
Not gonna lie Not too impressed with this one. Why are you building models in the summer?
>>
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>>6453718
Okay, I'ma downgrade the figure a little. I found I had a little time to kill and did another pass over the body with plans on putting in a collar and bow on it. I found the details on the hands to be a little shaky and the thumb on the right hand was oversized. I ended up carving up both thumbs but had to do more work on the right hand. Not perfect but good enough for government work.

While doing this, I started wondering if the figure was hand done, because it looks like the details lack a certain precision found with the Kingdom Death stuff, which I know was done in 3D. Granted, some 3D programs are better at doing organics than others -but the hands looked like they were done in that sculpting style where you put a blob down that's equivalent to the proper mass, pushed into shape, and then a knife used to slice in the details for the fingers and thumb.

(I'm also the person who's building that Kingdom Death: Beyond the Wall fig. I have a million projects going at once.. reposted pic related)
>>
>>6453726
It's incredibly shitty when paints decide to fuck you in the ass with a chainsaw due temperature and humidity when a month ago all was fine and dandy. oh well.
>>6453771
It started strong and due the painting stage it also feels lackluster to me, still have a ton of work to do but meh. If it wasn't for a present I would probably mothballed it until I felt like working back on it.
On the brightside now I know that summer in my town is like i njapan and tamiya is the way to go now until things cool down again.
As for why in summer, well I have more free time and a ever increasing stash so better get my ass to work on the kits, it's finding the balance between working when I'm inspired and forcing me to keep working to start and finish kits from the pile even if conditions aren't perfect.
>>6453788
If it's small run stuff probably the master is done by hand or modifying an existing model, but I guess there aren't a lot of little girl bodies in 1:35 so probably it was a patchwork of "good enough"
>>
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>>6453820
I spent forever looking for this vid where some people were restoring a French tank. I forget which tank it was but I came across it while looking for information on the proper turret shape of the APX-R(?)
Anyway, it showed them hand painting the tank, starting with putting in the lines and then painting inside the borders. Have you considered that option? Attaching a pic of the lined border style.
>>
>>6453859
(Forgot to mention that I couldn't find the damned vid. Anyway, I think the pic gets the idea across. It might work out for you, if the spray approach isn't doing it.)
>>
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The Mack is coming along nicely. All the little chrome went on well and it's looking good. Any good way to weather the chrome? I usually just do a brown wash and speckle it with some black.
>>
>>6453599
Yea m8 we know how big 1/35 is. It still looks like absolute shit. Pretty sure you could easily sculpt something that looks way better.
>>
>>6453679
I think it looks fine, especially with all the modulation and shit you're gonna do on top of this
>>
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>>6453973
Here is the bulldog. Now it's official! All the Macks had these little bulldogs and they go for a lot of money.
>>
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>>6453973
>>6453990
That chrome is pretty nice. Did you paint that or did it come with a chrome colored sprue?
Do they still put bulldogs on the hood? Looks cool.

>>6453981
Probably. I just might be really forgiving but then I for sure have seen much much worse.

I squeezed a little juice out of the batteries but the rubber is still curing. I might be able to take a couple of pics through the casting process. Anyway, here's one with a full height 1/35 for reference. I was kind of hoping to be able to use the Mechatro with an adult sized figure but I haven't checked fitting since that's a project I don't intend on starting for a fair while.
>>
>>6454411
I think they still do put the bull dogs on, but they aren't as old school. And yes they came on a chrome sprue! I will be black-washing them when they are all on and then weathering them. Thanks for the compliment.
>>
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Varnished with tamiya gloss and put a tan filter. Now I'm going to rust the exhausts before putting them again with enamel and pigments. Finally getting to the fun part.
>>6453859
The scheme on the char2c doesn't have the black line afaik, and I was too invested with the masking that I just kept at it, but probably doing the outlines with a brush and then filling would been less work. But if the paint doesn't want to collaborate not that it matters much...
>>6453984
I guess oils and washes will tone it and unify it but that washes away look and unclean edges trigger my tism
>>
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>>6455842
And with the enamel and pigments, still has to dry but more or less it will look like this. Now I have to do it in the small thingy and the broken pipe
>>
>>6455888
>straight outta focus
I gotta pay more attention when taking pics
>>
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Ejector pins marks. Well, the "mark" bit is debatable I guess.

>>6455911
At least we got a good look at the stand.

Squinting a bit the rust looks good, hopefully it'll still do that in focus.
>>
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>>6455888
There, tomorrow I'll clean up the excess and give it a less abandoned rust look. Good thing of doing it this way is that the look and texture can be modified and look realistic without much work
>>6456047
Maybe those are wedges for the barrels? Probably not but at least they aren't visible
>>
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>>6456185
>Maybe those are wedges for the barrels?

All seven should be identical (eight even, didn't bother to grab 'em all), so they cast the others bloody short if that's the case.

>but at least they aren't visible

You'd think so, but lets toss in the cannon...
>>
>>6456185
Lovin dat rust
>>
>>6456215
What the hell is that cannon? Why is it so thin? It should be like 3 times thicker than that.
>>
>>6456443
Three pounder. The main battery is beefier.
>>
>>6456449
I'm having a hard time finding any pictures of the Vasa's 3-pounders but that one looks a bit too long and thin. It would probably look better if the gun carriage was smaller.
>>
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>>6456532
Well I found this pic. I didn't read the build log but I think the guy built most of the ship from scratch?
Source:
https://sites.google.com/site/clayton707/swedishwarshipwasa
>>
Stupid question, but how do people make the nice black borders that go around vignettes and dioramas?
>>
>>6456626
By gluing it to a black base ?
>>
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>>6457283
>>6456626
I mean on shit like this
>>
>>6457608
see this
tiny url y82jhuro

wont let me post url thinks its spam.
>>
>>6457608
That's just black paint. If the base is foam you cover it with wall putty until you have a good surface or cover it with a really thin layer of wood. Or if it's wood and you don't want to varnish it just paint on top.
For more exotic materials for bases just make a nice surface and paint it, nothing mysterious about it m8.

I have a personal jihad against ak interactive but I have to admit that they make useful vids and some stuff. Here you have the how to make diormas:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLKfBDL89QDNrWNIdDwzsfrVFSViFqPxRQ

They use their products but vallejo and ammo mig have similar stuff, if you don't wan't to buy buy premade then just apply what you learn there but with your solutions.
>>
>>6457662
I was thinking maybe a plasticard border?
>>
>>6457741
It's usually white, but if you want it to be black plastic up to you
>>
>>6457741
>>6457608
What the hell, just use kappa boards. It's cheap as shit, and comes in multiple colors, black among them.
>>
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I want to try painting MERDC camouflage and noticed Vallejo air has a kit for that. I've only used tamiya paints. Do you still need to thin Vallejo air even though it's made for airbrushes? If so what ratio do you use?
>>
>>6459785
It's usually fine to use as-is, though I'd add a couple of drops of flow improver before spraying.
>>
>>6459785

I thin it by like 30% and add flow improver, I wouldn't spray it out of the bottle. You could just thin it a tiny bit with water if you don't have the thinner I guess.
>>
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Adding on some assorted bits and bobs, including more guns, because we certainly had a severe shortage of those

>>6459785
You can spray it straight out of the bottle, though I find that it tends to clog my nozzle if I do.
>>
>>6460174
It's too ornate! TOO ORNATE
>>
>>6460295
And this before I add the bright red gun port covers, every last one with a big, carved, golden lion's head on it.
>>
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Local seller has a ton of models for sale. Older woman who is selling her late husbands stash. Gonna dump pics. If anything fairly worthwhile let me know? Not really into 1/48
>>
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>>6460509
2/11
>>
>>6460509
Tamiya stuff is always worthwhile some way or another, the others check it on scalemates.
>>
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>>6460511
>>
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>>6460513
>>
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>>6460515
>>
>>6460509
The ICM SdKfz 222 is a nice little kit, with PE. For the price it's a steal.
>>
now I have a sudden urge to get back on track with my backlog
>>
>>6460696
Well, mush mush then.
>>
>>6460696
Do it faggot. Start building now, your country needs you!
>>
>>6459796
>>6460027
>>6460174
I see, thanks guys. I'll put some tamiya thinner in with it. I just wasn't sure because I haven't used the Vallejo paints before.
>>
>>6460509
Where are you from?

If the price is right i'd be interested in pretty much the whole 1/48 vehicle lot.
>>
>>6461564
NJ
>>
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>>6461573
Damn. Shipping all the stuff to europe would probably kill the good deal

The Tamiya stuff is pretty much available on ebay all the time, and while they are nice kits, they are not hard to come by nor are they really expensive. (I can only recommend to try a 48 kit yourself, even if you say you aren't into that scale. They really are a pleasure to build out of the box)

If you are interested in re-selling some of the kits:

The Demag by blue cat left bottom corner in the first pic is kinda rare (its a small company and afaik out of production) and might get a good price on ebay.

Same with the Hasegawa "Follow me" Jeep.

If you should decide to get a kit for yourself, i recommend the VW beetle. Its super cute.
>>
>>6461587
Yea, not really into 1/48 but I might get a couple.
>>
>>6461392

Don't do that, tamiya thinner is alcohol based. I'm pretty sure vallejo + alcohol is a bad idea as far as thinning goes.
>>
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>thin acrylics with thinner
>it's shit
>thin acrylics with water
>it's still shit

Washes shouldn't be this difficult but in somehow is
>>
>>6462127
And if you do manage to find something that thins it nicely there's the issue of whether or not the base paint has the pigment density to make a decent wash.

Oils have their advantages.
>>
>>6462127
Try this (on some scrap first):
Prepare a container like a "standard" coffee mug with water and add one (or two) drop(s) of dishwashing soap. Mix.

Thin out your acrylic with it and apply.

Hopefully the surfactant will fix whatever your issue is.
>>
>>6462127
What did you expect? If you're doing the diy road use oils lad. Acrylics will loose pigment and binder concentration and look and behave like shit
>>
Currently have a not so great airbrush that can't realy work without splattering it can do coats fine and I just mask for hard edges but I want to do soft edge lines anyone got any idea how I could
>>
>>6462523
Buying a better one?
>>
>>6462534
That's the eventual plan but I mean a solution for the mean time
>>
>>6462536
Low pressure, close, low, steady and a shot of whatever liquor you fancy to cope with the experience. When spiders and splatters occur be quick and have a clean wet brush ready to swipe the paint off before it dries.
>>
>>6462544
I'm so fucking spasticit I never actual considered removing the excess paint
>note to self do not reproduce
>>
>>6462549
I wouldnt recommend trying to remove the excess. Its difficult to do cleanly
>>
>>6462680
So what would you pr recommendation be because my idea of remove the excess is >>6462544
>>
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>>6462536
id spend my time figuring out whats causing the spatter by experimenting on paper.

taking everything off the airbrush, end cap, spray regulator, then just try air pressure, paint thickness. if its not there, add the parts back and see which one it is.

it would perhaps be an excess of paint collecting in the tip, it should be cleaned with a cotton bud and thinners as youre brushing.
>>
>>6462696
Just try and remove the excess and report how it works for you
>>
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Prinz Eugen with destroyer escort.
The details of the kit continue to amaze me throughout the build. Only parts I don't like are the AA guns which look kind of clunky.
>>
What's your guys opinion of amusing hobby armor kits most of my collection of kits are protoypes or short production run vehicles
>>
>>6463769
My VK3002 was amusing hobby.

I was surprised with the level of intricacy and detail. Felt like a much bigger, more experienced brand in terms of fit too.
>>
>>6463769
>
English is not my first nor second language but that was a fucking mess lad.
Honestly I love them as I really like what if stuff, second to Tiger Model in the "new" brands personal ranking. I did their Lowe September last year: https://m.imgur.com/a/HuB9i that up to date is perhaps my favorite build.
The bad in that kit: deformed lower hull and the worst that is the lack of coil housing of the idler wheels. There's a resin kit for that but good luck finding it. Also the lack of towing cable. But improvising a bit is what makes what if stuff fun so I guess it evens out.

The engineering is really good and afaik all kits have workable tracks and suspension. I'm going to get this Christmas the flak e100 or maybe the panther 2, not sure, as right now I have too many projects started and planned. I highly recomend doing some of their kits if you want to try them
>>
>>6463788
Any other brands for protoype armor trumpeter and dragon some times are the only companies that comes to my mind
>>
Is it recommended to sand in between clear coats (laquer gloss on blue metallic laquer)? I fucked up putting on the first layer of clear, and got some runs , and a few spots. How long should I wait before attempting to sand a clear coat?
>>
>>6463944
>and got some runs

Any extra coats on top of those will just make 'em harder to get rid of.

>How long should I wait before attempting to sand a clear coat?

I can tell you it'll vary with the exact paint, climate, and probably how good a finish you need. What exactly that means for any specific set of circumstances, that's harder. I'd wait until the next day before trying sanding acrylics at least, longer for enamels.
>>
>>6463805
>English is not my first nor second language but that was a fucking mess lad.
i keked.

Also, has anyone tried this shit?

Acrylic powder, colored when mixed with monomeric liquidity, creates a mass similar to epoxy or melted plastic. Previously it was used in dentoprosthetics, but more recently in cosmetics. After evaporation of the monomer, it is converted into a plastic of a predetermined shape. Skins fine, I do not know about the adhesion, but looking at the video of a kazhetsa, which is sufficient for modeling.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professional-Nail-Art-Kits-Acrylic-Liquid-Powder-Pen-Dappen-dish-Tools-Sets-46-/272555333863
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Nail-Art-Tool-Kit-Set-Crystal-Powder-Acrylic-Liquid-Dappen-Dish-LA-/281819247699
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acrylic-Powder-Liquid-Glass-Cup-Nail-Art-Tips-UV-Primer-Brush-Block-Tool-Kit-Set-/360709738932
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acrylic-Powder-Liquid-Glass-Cup-Nail-Art-Tips-UV-Primer-Brush-Block-Tool-Kit-Set-/401168415440
>>
>>6464174
if you try it, come back and tell us how it goes.
>>
>>6464265
should arrive in 2-3 weeks.
>>
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1/48 stash guy.

Bought a SpecialHobby Fairey Firefly, tamiya swordfish, and the guys spare parts box.

All for 50. Feelin pretty good about that. Anyone have experience with special hobby?
>>
Does anyone know of any vehicle kits that fit in scale with 6 inch figures?
>>
>>6464438
Yes. Any 1/12 vehicle.
>>
>>6464455
Thanks anon
>>
Anyone have any tips for weathering? I'm a beginner in scale model military vehicles, and I've weathered my Gundam before using Tamiya weather master pastel kits. Do you guys weather on top of your clear coat, and then seal in the weathering with another final top coat, or do you top coat and then weather and simply leave the weathering alone? Are pastels like the Tamiya weather master kits best left alone with no top coat or with a top coat?
>>
>>6464174
I posted about this a few threads back but someone said to just use cyanoacrylate and baking soda. One thing I should note about the baking soda and CA combination is that it can generate a lot of heat. But back to using the nail extensions: I tried it only once using CA as the monomer and it came out a bit lumpy. I probably should try to use the monomer that goes with the nail care stuff since it should take longer to dry and probably interacts to yield a smoother surface.
There's a modeler on youtube that uses the dental stuff and sources his materials from a dentist that I guess he's friends with. You can't really get the dental stuff without a license. Anyway, the guy uses the stuff to fill in large gaps and I can see it being very good for this since it bonds pretty strong and gives a solid working surface that's superior to tube putties. What he did was cover off the outer surface of the model with tape and then fill in from the back.
>>
>>6462127
>doing washes with acrylics
Well, there is your problem.
>>
What are some geometrically simple AFVs? something with a simple construction, not many protruding details

i'm looking to get some quick-build 1/72 AFV kits for testing camo/weathering but not sure what vehicle to get
>>
>>6465074
m113?
>>
>>6465084
yea something like that
>>
guys, i'm looking for some good spray can gloss finish. and by gloss i mean ready for wash or decals gloss(after two or three coats), not "slightly shiny" gloss. tamiya maybe?
>>
>>6464779
It's generally recommended not to varnish on top of weathering, to preserve the shifts of texture (matte, sating, gloss) that the weathering creates.
>>
>>6464983
>There's a modeler on youtube that uses the dental stuff and sources his materials from a dentist that I guess he's friends with.
Link, plox. Is it Paul Budzik?
>>
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Hit the jackpot. Opened up the Tamiya Swordfish and found the photoetch kit included. Also went through the spares box and found a ton of PE seatbelts
>>
>>6465188
Yeah, pretty sure it's him. He uses the technique on several models but covers it specifically in a vid
>>
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Started the base. I'm looking forward to finish this build as I want to continue the tiger, oh well...
>>
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>>6465530
Soil done. Not sure if I want to do a muddy/wet road or leave it dry. As I have to airbrush it a bit and put some pigments I can go both ways
>>
>>6465590
Looks properly muddy for now, but we'll see what drying brings I guess.
>>
>>6465530
>>6465590
Looking great!
>>
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>>6465188
Paul Budzik is pretty great, he actually IS the dentist, so thats why he has all that material available to him. He seems to take this so seriously i´ll never be able to get on his level. But i´ve also learned so much from his channel.
>>
>>6465988
Yep, that's a short run kit there alright.
>>
>>6465148
Does that mean I should be using a pigment binder or fixer?
>>
>>6466082
Something like that for pigments yes, generally, depending on what you're trying to do. It's more art than science after all, so whatever works really.
>>
>tfw you never have ample time to paint so you just build other kits while waiting for the right opportunity
>tfw you have six kits halfway to completion

Is anyone else guilty of this?
>>
>>6466149
yes, living in apartments is death.
>>
Nothing like packing to move to remind you just how many models and tools you have. Jesus.
>>
>>6466149
I've only did that once and with just a kit. Kits I buy sit on the stash "as new" until they get their time to shine.
If I start a project is to finish it as there's no point in starting stuff that you don't clearly want finished.
But each to his own
>>6466208
That's something I've been thinking about lately, I won't probably move in ages but if I had to pack my modeling shit it would be a mess
>>
>>6465295
You lucky bastard!
>>
>>6464416

Special hobby is full of limited run kits, so they are beasts to build and riddled with bad engineering but look awesome when done right.

You should have bought that 1/48th wellington. Beautiful kit.
>>
>>6466344
Don't have the space for bombers cause I'm also moving-anon

The firefly has a resin wheel well and exhausts which is pretty cool. Havent done any aircraft since I was a kid so I hope I do ok
>>
>>6466367
I get you. I actually expanded my stash because I am moving and for the first months I won't internet because new suburb which was just barely finished and has no com contracts yet..will have to distract myself with models.

Then my stash grew from 0 to 32 in the blink of an eye.
>>
>>6465121
bump?
>>
>>6466950
Dude a bit of investigation would solve that question but:
Either tamiya or mr hobby sprays will do the job, I have no idea about that "non-shinny enough" thing you talk about. Probably doing two coats will make it shine more.
>>
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>ded thread
I think I'm going to make a new one in a bit perhaps.
Anyway it dried pretty well (should have taken a pic) but quite boring as it just looked like, well, a muddy road. So I decided to go for a dry look, like it rained few days ago a lot but most is dry.
Used three pigments and then airbrush a bit of dark brown to unify. It's still drying but I wanted to try a black wash (the dark stripe) for a turned earth look but I'm not sure, should I do it? Right now if I put the tank on top it just looks like a shadow
>>
>>6467575
Im not crazy about it personally
>>
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>>6467575
Finished the pigments and with the tank on top to see how it looks. If I give for finished the base today I'll dust the char and do the tracks so probably it will be finished by tomorrow
>>6467587
Well a road is quite boring if there's nothing else going on, I didn't plan the scene very well. But as a base it's enough for me.
Main thing that made me loose interest was the paint drama and that I feel that when I give it he will be like "cool" and and then put on a shelve somewhere forever.
I'm not gonna make a shit job because of that but neither this one will push the state of the art, just a regular build
>>
Anyone know where I can get powdered tile grout for weathering? I see qvc use it a lot on YouTube for his models along with what he calls yellow glue. Is that just wood glue?
>>
>>6467744
Powdered what? What do you do with that?
>>
>>6467825
Tile grout? The stuff you put in between floor and wall tiles to hold them in place? Some people I know use the powdered form because it looks like dust or mud and they paint glue over the model as a fixer and sprinkle the tile grout over it as makeshift weathering
>>
>>6467829
Why don't you just use pigments like everyone else instead of doing weird shit you can't even get easily? Also if you want to make mud use Paris plaster mixed with enamel and pigments to get a color rich solid paste
>>
>>6467744
Idk like walmart?

Anyone sculpt their own trees?
>>
Aleight guys the thread is almost done so bump with your finished models so I have one for the next thread
>>
>>6467744
Hardware store
>>
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>Trumpeter 1/35 Hotchkiss H.38 in Girls und Panzer universe, working on crew

Built up a little too much latex around the head for the one spout, so I had to use a hobby knife to cut a slot around where the rod formed the spout. In the end, I didn't get enough resin into the mold to fully form (a little tricky for this spew mold arrangement) but it got all of the details and I could just fill the little air bubble where the next goes anyway.

Clipped off the back of the hair so I could sculpt in my own hair style (I'm open to suggestions on hair style), put some putty into the hole but not quite fully filled yet (just going to build it up a little bit), drilled and wired for the neck, wire installed into the body, and the beginnings of a collar put in (using a little bit of really thin sheet styrene to form the tips, gluing those on, then forming the rest with a bit of two part epoxy putty.)

There's a little bit of tamiya panel liner on the head. I wasn't sure if it would work (and it doesn't quite) for picking out imperfections. I'll have to spray it later. It looks okay though, so I probably won't have to recast (thankfully.)
>>
>>6468707
The head isn't glue in yet, by the way. I want to make sure the head looks okay with a quick coat of paint to check for imperfection and then put in a proper neck before gluing. Then the hair goes on.
Also planning on adding in a little ribbon tie.
>>
>>6468707
What the fuck is this
>>
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She's growing a few stories at a time.

>>6468102
Doesn't seem like there's anything that's about to be finished soon in this thread. The Char 2C is probably the best alternative right now.
>>
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Mask one edge, mask the other edge, a big piece of tape in between, mask one edge, mask the other edge, a big piece of tape in between, mask one edge, mask the other edge, mask one edge, mask the other edge, a big piece of tape in between...

Oh bother.

>>6469126
>Doesn't seem like there's anything that's about to be finished soon in this thread.

Any year now...
>>
>>6469150
I'm surprised how good the white and the yellow look on that dark base, you using brushes or air brushes?
>>
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>>6469150
Looks like you're doing steady progress.
I just hope the finished model will survive longer than the real ship did.
>>
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>>6469163
By and large this much was airbrushed, the rest by brush. Masts and sails will be mostly airbrushed.
>>
File: image.jpg (42KB, 640x362px) Image search: [Google]
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42KB, 640x362px
today on reddit
>>
>>6469301
The ol driving through a blizzard while your plane is covered in glue style
>>
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>>6469301
>>
>>6469301
Temps dropped so low that window frames became ice
>>
File: ArgieSabre.jpg (96KB, 1280x960px) Image search: [Google]
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>>6468102
last week I got to the point where I felt he was ready to go
please no bully, I'm a beginner
>>
>>6469301
as you can see the weather in the eastern front was harsh
>>
File: IMG_0161 -.jpg (4MB, 5184x3456px) Image search: [Google]
IMG_0161 -.jpg
4MB, 5184x3456px
Finished the Sherman I have been working on. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Pz. IV ausf. F2 next.
>>
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>>6470389
>>
File: 0214325212.png (574KB, 822x548px) Image search: [Google]
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>>6469301
That is cute.
>>
>>6469396
Looks good! Maybe use some more light on the photo, and you know, and argie plane, other than that looks fine.
>>
>>6470389
Really like the cast texture on the turret. Also those decals look amazing.
>>
>>6470389
Looks really nice
>>6470405
That's not okay in any way unless the person who built it is like 6 years old.
>>
>>6470635
>6 years old.
Sadly, that is not the case, by a long shot.
>>
>>6470689
Then what is the person's disability?
>>
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>>6470723
I blame it on undeserved positive reinforcement of scale model groups on FB.
Pic related, different person.
>>
>>6470392
>>6470389
Really awesome work anon. Whats your photo set up?
>>
NEW THREAD

>>6470887
>>6470887
>>6470887
>>
>>6470745
I think positive reinforcement isn't the problem so much as a lack of suggestions to improve. I find that a lot of people don't understand how various mediums work or the different ways tools can be used. This is based on experience having worked in a watch repair shop for a few years. People will freak out over all kinds of things through their lack of understanding. They'll also attempt to fill those gaps with make believe.
>>
>>6472040
Both of those photos received nothing but messages of "fantastic!" and "Keep up the good work!" because no one wants to be act rude and tell them it's shit and they should just stop and re-evaluate what they are doing.
A faggot did recommended masking tape and that the most important part of modeling was to first gather information in order to get the accurate colors. It's sad, guys turning kit after kit into shit while people around them makes them believe they are doing a great job instead of helping them improve.
Thread posts: 354
Thread images: 99


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