Who else here makes own toys with 3D printer? https://www.yo

File: IMG_0089.jpg (3MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3264x2448px

For those who remember i posted a month ago on here, got banned... so here is the update, got me a 3d printer and getting ready to proffessionalize my action figures

File: IMG_6459.png (235KB, 1024x413px) Image search: [Google]

235KB, 1024x413px

>>6393447
Some of us in the /customs/ thread do this. One anon made an articulated King Dedede.

I'm working on a few 1/12 articulated animals at the moment. Pic related.

>>6393447
>Who else here makes own toys with 3D printer

Not yet but I'm trying. What's the best way to learn how to create 3d printed toys?

>>6393460
just fool around with tinkercad for starters. get some basic shapes going, and improve from there.

>>6393464
Tinkering is fine and what I plan to do in the beginning, but I'm curious about what to do going from there. Like what about ball joints or other toy-related engineering that require some knowledge about structures and tolerance?
I don't want to bit off more than I can chew at the start but I'd like to know what path to follow. Maybe there are some books on the subject.

>>6393481
I understand. well my background is in engineering so most of the technical stuff i am already familiar with. so i dont have any tips realy, im also a trial and error type of guy.

>>6393460
Download a free drafting or 3D modeling software like sculptris or SketchUp, then watch YouTube tutorials and practice, practice, practice.

Once you get the idea on modeling take your designs into Blender and convert them to papercraft form. Asssmble them to get an idea of the dimensions your model will be in. If you choose to use a 3D printing service like Shapeways test-print some small parts in different materials to get a feel on texture and strength. Thin walls for ball-socket joints (depends on material) can give you flex with strength, especially with soft materials such as Shapeways's polyurethane material 'Elastoplastic'.

I 3D print toys as part of my job! Not action figures so much, but like the chassis for animatronics. We're setting up to print a huge shell for a project for a client today.

If you have a printer with a dual extruder I definitely recommend having one print soluble support structure. Makes life a ton easier.

>>6393826
Tfw no job

>>6393457
thicc doggo

I want to see more finished 3d printed figures...
do you think an highly articulated figure is possible to do in 3d printing?

>>6393447
>>6393453
I remember you and your neat little wooden toys, hate to break it to you but you overpaid on the tiny 3D Printer.

Should have gotten a Creality CR-10 instead.

File: Wolf Figure Preview 2.png (1MB, 1951x1220px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 1951x1220px

>>6393910
lol, I need to shave off quite a bit of mass from the body now since the final form will have textured fur and won't need to be that fluffy. Right now it looks like my wolf repeatedly skipped out on leg-day (pic related).

As for your question:

Short answer: Yes, highly articulated 3D printed figures are possible.

Caveat: You need to implement the right printed materials for joints and the right sculpts to work together. You can't replicate hobby base and revoltech joints anywhere near as well as the real deal (let alone as cheaply) but I've found ways to mimic the design using ball-sockets with a total outer diameter of 5mm and up. The trick is making SLS nylon the right thickess to be flexible but still firm for joints, and to make use of the rubberiness of SLS flexible polyurethane for parts that would ordinarily be made of softer PVC on a conventionally-produced figure.

Oh, and small details won't show up well. Don't expect a figma or revoltech-tier of precise sculpt in a 5inch figure made from 3D printed nylon or polyurethane.

File: ride armor.jpg (12KB, 204x246px) Image search: [Google]

12KB, 204x246px

>>6393447
I'll wait until the technology gets a bit better, five years should do. The first thing i'll try will be an articulated 1/12 ride armor.

>>6394148
why 1/12 when you can go 1/1.

>>6394152
Why 1/1 when you can go 12/1.

>>6393447
I was looking everywhere for this. I have you bookmarked now. I will wait patiently until you have some for sale. Good luck!

>>6394148
>I'll wait until the technology gets a bit better, five years should do.

Why is it that the "until the technology gets better" guy shows up in every one of these threads but can never explain what exactly he's waiting for. The only real hurdle we have left to overcome is the time it takes to print parts, dude, and that can only get so fast.

>>6394266
I haven't checked back into consumer level 3D printing in a while, are you saying we're already at the level where we can get relatively smooth prints without that stepped look, from an affordable home printer, without using acetone?

>>6394152
Because i dont have anywhere to put it.

>>6394266
>Why is it that the "until the technology gets better" guy shows up in every one of these threads but can never explain what exactly he's waiting for

Because it can get better and or cheaper? unless you're trying to sell me something i dont know why you should care wether i get one now or in twenty years.

>>6393453
What did you get banned for, and how long?

>>6394148
Lol this one of the top tens on my project list. Want to make one for my D-ARts vile.

>>6393456
3d printing dildos is all fun and games until you sandpaper the inside of your asshole with em.

>>6394283
This. Not that guy but it's why I'm not interested in a 3d printer yet.

>>6395000
It also sounds potentially dangerous...a lot of plastics used in 3D printers are porous, which creates tiny little crevices where bacteria can hide and then transfer inside you.

File: IMG_1873.jpg (1MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 4032x3024px

>>6394285
It's better than it was two years ago. The key, if you're getting an FDM printer, is to get one with dual extrudders and use one to print soluble support. There will always be SOME stepping, particularly with FDM, but once you figure out your settings and as long as you maintain your printer you'll only need to do very minimal finishing.

>>6394148
>>6394283
>>6395000
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2i5wHdNvUz0

>>6394283
>>6395000
There's always going to be stepping under layered printing tech unless a catalyst is applied. Whether that catalyst is acetone, or whatever future process is coming down the pike, it's still going to be necessary. So it's not ready for consumer primetime, and if you have lofty enough expectations it will never satisfy you.

But no tech is perfect. You can claim that injection molding is the only way to get a perfect product, but there's still mold seam lines and residual flash that will never truly go away without massive amounts of post-injection work and paint to cover it. Is that really so different? Look at any action figure's raw plastic and you'll see the seam lines from the mold plates, or thin pieces of excess plastic here and there. That's not to mention post-cooling shrinkage, mold development and clean up, etc.

So really, if you place enough requirements on a piece of tech to give it a pass or fail, -nothing- will meet your standards. And if additional clean up work of any sort is a deal killer, you've basically removed yourself from any sort of hobbyist activity throughout history. At that point, you're just stating the desire to remain a consumer rather than a builder and producer and were never really interested in the idea in the first place.

>want to get a 3D printer
>theres thousands of different kinds of printers out there now
what the fuck do i get?

what are the main things I should look for? I know filament compatibility is important but what else?

>>6394331
I kept posting the creepy mccaulay culkin image. I'm gonna make a toy of it as revenge.

Not too long ago, I 3D printed a Smart Bomb from Star Fox

>>6395128
There's one linked in a youtube review not even two posts above you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbmdwBwm7BU

Other options worth considering
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIk-w5OSVh8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iW36HGhtPZA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIglTxxtD7g

>>6395343
>There's one linked in a youtube review not even two posts above you.

yeah, sorry. as soon as i posted that, i saw the link to the cr-10.
but thanks for not being an ass and recommending other machines as well.

>>6395320
What are you, 5 years old or something?

File: FaceApp_1497850367484.jpg (126KB, 1280x670px) Image search: [Google]

126KB, 1280x670px

>>6395320
The hero we don't deserve

File: Mini_Angle_FullRes.jpg (2MB, 4334x3244px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4334x3244px

>>6395128
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
use this website to decide what you want.
i bought pic related and its easy to use and you dont have to use just plastic with this one.
thats if you have the 1200 shekels to drop on this machine
however theres a

File: ProShot_2017_06_28_22_08_22.jpg (3MB, 3456x4608px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3456x4608px

>>6396969
>There's a

>>6396969
They killed him before he could finish

>>6397659
then who posted it?

>>6397765
Maybe it was Candlejack. You know he's su

File: fig1.jpg (15KB, 394x700px) Image search: [Google]

15KB, 394x700px

>>6394132
This so hard.
Always, ALWAYS consider your 3D-printed figures a base sculpt. SLS or FDM, layer lines will happen on your model, and even when you can't see them, cameras can.

Even when you use an epoxy, etc to fill the gaps and create smoother figures you will inevitably lose small details. the only way to restore it is to etch or sculpt it back in yourself.

But, I think figma/shf scale things are entirely possible with SLS nylon. Just takes a lot of filling , sanding/polishing and good paint.

Papi-anon, I've seen you do great things, Dedede anon could work on the joint engineering but otherwise is doing ok with finishes. I've made a few figures myself with Maya, but trying yo finish/smooth two in nylon at the moment.

Pic related is one unsmoothed i did in abs a while ago, 6ish inch

>>6393447
Very cool little toys.

>>6397859
Yeah, this is why I outsource with Shapeways, pretty consistent results for the SLS plastics. I've also found that Elastoplastic is a decent substitute for soft PVC parts when attaching joints. Sockets just need cuts to make them flexible.

Dedede-anon, have you considered making two sets of arms: one set for wielding the hammer and another regular set for posing one-handed?

>>6396969
What a shit guide, not a single (chinese) 3D printer kit in there.

File: IMG_1122.jpg (57KB, 500x618px) Image search: [Google]

57KB, 500x618px

>>6398206
I'm gonna guess there's a reason for excluding the Chinese models.

>>6393447
http://lightbeam3d.com/

Affordable 3d printers are shit quality. Better pay for quality work.

>>6395120
>says catalyst
>means solvent

you sure do know what you're talking about

why do you guys always assume people are talking about fff/fdm machines? sla/dlp is pretty cheap these days

File: IMG_0688(1).jpg (134KB, 900x726px) Image search: [Google]

134KB, 900x726px

>>6396969
That's my Printer. I scored one brand new for 800 CAD on Kijiji and I love it. Looking to grab a second one to print flexible material. Honestly though for those thinking about it. You will spend a lot of money on not just the printer itself. Your going to burn through a lot of filament fast and youll need to invest in a good set of finishing tools too. I had a lot of the necessary tools since I do traditional sculpture as well but if I had to start from the beginning to where I currently am I would say my total investment into this within the last 2 months would be in the 2-3 grand range.

>>6399629
And yes my painting is shit since I know thats going to be the inevitable comment.

>>6398474
There literally isn't a reason to exclude them, they're as good if not better at half the price.

The Creality CR-10 being one of them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FD2Rg00jN40

>>6399658
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SO0qJTJ2Ypo