Scale Model General

its like putting on a fresh pair of socks.

model socks that is.

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>>6264909
Sure is. The old thread was going really slow too, maybe the pace will pick up here.

Anyways I haven't posted an update in a while on this. I actually had the entire base done, but I hated the way it looked. regular cotton balls are fucking garbage, and have a ton of these white speck things inside them. Rayon balls are 100x better, even if I had to spend nearly $40 for 4k rayon balls since I couldn't find any smaller packages of them anywhere online.

I got lucky though, I coated the paintwork with a flat lacquer spray to seal everything in, and luckily I was picking at the cotton trying to see if I could remove it, and I was able to lift practically the entire gloss medium base off the paint without doing any damage at all, allowing me to completely restart the work.

I also am going to make a new base for the Tuscaloosa eventually, I was able to remove the ship from the base, but some damage to the paint occurred which I'm going to have to fix.

>>6264945
Been lurking these threads for a while, I'll have to say your work is outstanding anon.

Just curious, do you by chance do commission builds?

>>6264982
Thanks for the compliments, I've never done anything like that before though. I probably wouldn't do a commission though, I only have so much spare time to make my own stuff sadly.

Hi guys, ive been looking for a scale shipping conteiner with good interiors, thought this would be the place to ask about it

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Got these bad boys from Belgium so I can finish up Remora. Also made some tiny food dishes


>>6265165
Youd probably have to scratchbuild it out of sheet styrene but that should be easy

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Oh shit, I got in the OP! Awesome! Anyways, I've been working on the Camaro for a bit, and I've gotten the paint on, just need to gloss coat it and then I can do a panel wash, which will complete the body

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>>6265337
Obligatory take fucking two

>>6265165
what scale?

>>6265341
I was randomly watching youtube vids and came across one where someone was polishing the finish with high grit abrasives. It came out really nice. I'm tempted to try it on a plane at some point.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lB_lXAaIj3w

>>6265779
That looks great, I'm gonna have to try that out once I get some of that sandpaper

>>6264945
I cant remember if that one is waterline. How do you feel about those kits?

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The "random pile of junk" camoflage.

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Nearly finished with the base, just some minor adjustments are left. I think the sea foam looks much better this time, I tried to make it look more random, and be parallel to the ship instead of mostly perpendicular.

>>6266173
That looks amazing, I'd say it looks done

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>>6266173
I would add a small bit of wake in the front
completely up to you though, looks great man.

>>6266608
>>6266788
Thanks guys. I was actually planning on having the wake all the way up in the front but I kinda fucked up the position of the wave crest, should have placed it more forward.

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>>6266173

I'm the anon who shared the wave how to. Just wanted to say, that is some AMAZING water you got there.

10/10

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>>6266888
Thanks for the tutorial by the way, helped out a lot.

I also added some more wave crests to the front of the ship.

>>6266916
You have the kimasa and the derfflinger right? Im deciding between the two now

>>6267469
Kimasa? no idea what that is but I don't have it. I have Derfflinger in my backlog, looks like a solid kit, but I'm going to wait till later to do that one.

I was actually working on a Hasegawa waterline Myoko kit with Flyhawk photo etch upgrade set, which will be my next project after I'm 100% done with the Naiad. I also now really want to build a bunch of IJN Cruisers, like a Takao class, or a Tone. Tamiya has a really nice 1/350 Tone kit that I've always wanted to build, but it's very expensive.

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I also found this kit recently, which is pretty interesting. It's a WWI tool of the Kongo, and it's supposed to be very similar to Flyhawk's 1/700 kits in terms of quality, apparently because the company that makes it is part of Flyhawk that was set up to produce even more ship kits.

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From random pile of junk to archipelago.

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I got bored of building the Camaro, so I'm currently working on a little side project. This is a Branchline trains Pullman 10-1-2 (I think?). What astonished me was that this kit is better engineered than any regular plastic kit I've made. I hardly needed any glue, and the parts fit so snugly that there's no need to glue anything since there's no play in the seams. This thing is amazing and I think anyone should build this kit regardless of if you make model railroads or not.

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>>6267657

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>>6267663
Jesus, not even gookpla builders are this bad.

>>6267763
Excuse time! You may notice in the first pic that it was taken in my car, I was working on it while I was on break at work, so I had no way of touching it up unfortunately. Fear not though, it will all be fixed.

>>6267884
>>6267763
Granted it looks like the underside that won't be seen anyways, but yeah need to sand down them stubs.

>>6266021
Oh it is not a waterline, though it comes with the option to do it as waterline. It's a very high quality kit for the 1/700 scale, compared to other manufacturers. It is much closer in terms of detail and mold quality to a 1/350 kit, though obviously a 1/350 is still a lot more detailed. It's definitely worth checking out if you like ships / the scale.

>>6267500
*mikasa

>>6267565
Those are really great smooth camo lines. Good work

>>6267884
You work on models in your car on your lunch break? Jesus dude

>>6267904
Ah, was wondering what that was supposed to be. I don't have a kit of the Mikasa.

>>6267908
I'm sorry you can't be as efficient as me! /S

>>6267663
>rips parts off sprues like a three year old

>>6267938
See >>6267884 to get some context

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Dragon Sd.Kfz.7/2 with Griffon sets

>>6268300
Looks good, are you making a diorama with the engine open or something?

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>>6268308
No, improving detail.

>>6268358
You should at least leave the engine cover open or something so you can see all the details.

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>>6268359
They will be removeable as they are on the real thing.

>>6268358
How did you form the brass panel details like the vents and the contour around it?

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Bottom piece was sprayed first, top piece and turret immediately afterwards, using a simple can of acrylic spray paint, paint stopped looking shit by the time I did the other side of the bottom piece.

How do I stop this from happening?

I've only had it occur with certain colors, mostly white and black(especially white), in this case it was the black base coat, gonna get it off with alcohol and repaint it.

>>6268703
very odd, good practice for using cans is to put them in hot water for about 15 minutes beforehand. then give them a good shake.
also start spraying before you go over the model, so it all gets and equal coat.

have something close to test spray on incase it goes fucky again, then atleast youre not spraying directly on your model.

also wash with soapy water beforehand as to get any contaminants off the model.

>>6268703
Spraying environment. The paint might be drying before it contacted the surface, which creates a gritty appearance. Spraying under noon sun can do this. Dry and/or warm air -or spraying too far from the model.
I think there might be one other condition that would get you this effect as well. Don't remember.

>>6268731
Oh right. Paint is too atomized, allowing it to dry faster in the air.

>>6268703
>acrylic spray paint

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>>6268679
Template and ballpoint pen.

>>6268703
>it happens the first time you spray
>stops happening after a few seconds

Dont start and end spraying on the model and invert the can before and after you spray each time and clear the nozzle.

>>6267506
Anyone else smelling a Vauxhall here? New company with a somewhat more Japanese-sounding name for the Japanese ships, hm...

>>6268300
This looks so good

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>>6268852
What does Vauxhall mean?

Pretty much done here. Only thing left to do is to build it a wooden base, and then a plexiglass shroud. I'm going to basically just use a router on 4 pieces of wood and place them around the outside of the base, and place the plexiglas on top of that similar to what I did for my USS Indianapolis.

I learned a good trick for making the flags more realistic / durable too, you just take some aluminum foil, and prime it with a gloss base for decals, then cut out the foil so that it's slightly smaller than the flag itself, and decal the foil. It allows you to bend it into a wavy structure that stays still easily.

>>6268745
It came out pretty nice

hey guys i decided nit to go with the 1/350 scale yamato but instead the 1/700 scale. what extra stuff like glue, scissors and what paints do i need?

>>6265763
doesnt really matters

>>6269841
nevermind, the box had info inside it in a pamphlet

>>6269920
>>6269841
can you record a video of you twisting the pieces off the runners? I need some toe curling cringe in my life.

>>6269923
i use cutting pliers so no

>>6269926
can you record a video of you destroying a piece with cutting pliers? Something like the radar array or one of the structural pylons?

>>6269459
did you use that cotton on that? cos it kinda looks like silicone.

>>6269927
He's had some modeling experience, so the odds might be kind of low.

>>6269459
>What does Vauxhall mean?

It's what Opel is called in the UK, their actual name at some point having been seen as a bit too German to work there.

Why would Flyhawk's owners not wish to keep using that name? Kajika seems intended to make Japanese ships mostly, which would suggest that they're also aiming at the Japanese market. The name then could be an attempt to come across as locals there at first glance.

>>6269920
Lol you're fucked

>>6269963
It's Rayon balls, not cotton. If you're ever going to do this method, find a way to get some rayon balls because they are much better. The entire thing is coated in several layers of liquitex high gloss varnish to blend everything together as well as hide all the rogue rayon fibers.

>>6270033
I see, makes sense. It's just very strange that they would come up with a new brand and everything, Flyhawk is pretty well regarded. The guy says they're some kind of sister company to Flyhawk too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQO3ixjixK0&

hello chaps, anyone here has any experience using humbrol metalcote?
I'm having a hard time with the buffing part since the only time I'm getting some actual metallic shine is when I'm almost stripping the paint off the kit
I've been applying it in thin layers as per usual procedure, should I just put a thick layer without any solvent and buff my way out of it or what?

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>>6270477
Yeah I painted the airfix P-51D in 1:72nd with metalcote spray. Have you watched the tutorial video made by humbrol?

You need to spray 2 coats within 10-20 minutes of each other. Then you need to wait 24-36 hours to start buffing and when you do, slowly work up the pressure you are applying with a soft cotton material. Start from hardly any pressure moving in lines until you reach a point where a single stroke makes an effect. Then take it a notch back and do the whole model. The trick is that it should take 2-3 passes over a single point to achieve an effect, not 1. Otherwise you'll end up stripping the paint where you overlap.

Whats the largest scale model (any scale) thats available in a kit?

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>>6271065
That's a tough one, but if I were to guess it would be this 1/35 Dora Railway gun. I also think Dragon had a run of 1/6 tanks a long time ago, they had a Panzer II I think that is massive.

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Here's the dora with a guy for scale.

Oh and I just found this too, Dragon made a 1/6 105mm Sherman howie, look at the size of these sprues...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RROy2tgElKU

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>>6271088
When i was searching a 1/6 model of it showed up first so I was taken back by the size

>>6271095
That's just some guy's custom built one I think, but even in 1/35 it's a massive kit.

Check out the Dragon 1/6 panzer II though, I can't believe this thing is only $260 from HLJ, pretty damn good deal on such a massive kit.

https://hlj.com/product/CYVCH75045/

I can't even imagine how much paint it would require to build this thing.

>>6271100
Thats pretty good and cheap actually. I think i might get this for my 1/6 scale bishoujo (anime) figures.

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Let's see here, an 1/6 M4 will end up about a meter in length, quite tall and wide compared to the rest here. I'm guessing a bit less doodads on it since it's a tank.

Dora will be a lot slimmer, but reach about 1,35m.

You can get a B-52 in 1/48. Wingspan should be a bit shy of 1,2m.

1/200 is starting to be a thing for ships. Yes, there's a Yamato to be had. Should end up about 1,28m.

But of the ones I know of I'd probably give the prize to Trumpeter's 1/48 Type VIIC U-boot. 1,4m and a full fucking interior.

Leaving the kit side, I've heard of a guy scratch building a KV-1 in 1/1, but haven't found any pics.

Hey guys, im recently starting into this and probably already fucked up; i bought a Trumpeter Sturmtiger (early) and wanted to know how difficult would be for a beginner.

On a side note: any tips of painting it by hand? i don't have a airbrush...

>>6271237
1:72? Look it's not a particularly difficult kit, but it will be challenging for your very first attempt. Just ask the specific questions you have here and when you've decided on a course of action, post your method so the rest of us can spot any flaws or pitfalls.

Ok then, so how do i paint with brushes? i thin the paint 50 50 and then what? just brush it on?

Also on the same subject can I get some airbrush recommendations? whats a good price point and all? Thanks

>>6271292

>>6271294
Get some brush friendly paint (I recommend enamel but modern acrylic is fine as well) and add some thinner, load up a brush and go. You'll want to do short strokes with a round, flat or filbert tip brush. Avoid going over areas already covered, if you didnt get it opaque or there are some brush marks, adjust the thinning ratio and try again when it is "dry". That means minutes for acrylics and minutes to hours for enamels.

50 50 is a good starting point, but really dont be afraid to experiment. Test your painting whenever possible, it takes hundreds of hours to get good at brush painting and everytime you practice off model, you save your model from all your 'practice strokes'.

Basically just practice a lot and you'll learn heaps from trial and error.

>>6271304
and airbrushes?

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>>6271200
>But of the ones I know of I'd probably give the prize to Trumpeter's 1/48 Type VIIC U-boot. 1,4m and a full fucking interior.

one of the miniature companies makes a 1/32 scale one. pic related at back.

>>6271558
I bet that 1/48 U-Boat is pretty cool, though. I don't have the time or skill to build something like that, but I can always dream...

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>>6271200
there's also a 1/1 spitfire in the cosford RAF museum, I might have a pic somewhere

>>6271821
that's the one james may and some kids built.

>What was the most expensive model you ever worked on?
>Why did you buy that model instead of something cheaper?
>How did the finished product turn out?


Apparently this can be bought somehow for about $9849.00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1gol8rAGpg

>>6272400
That doesnt even look good. My modt expensive is about 150. Almost done but its coming out very well in my opinion

>>6272714
>I cant have it therefore it looks like shit

yeah fuck off, it looks great.

>>6272735
It honestly just looks like a big metal earth model. Not sure why anyone would want it

>>6272737
It probably looks better than that up close. And probably even better painted.

>>6272714
Lol what do you mean that thing doesn't look good. Probably looks better than what you're working on, anyways.

>>6272740
>And probably even better painted.

Do that and it'll look like any plastic kit around, except for possible undesirable things, like screw heads and such.

They left it bare naked for a good reason.

>>6272757
>screw heads

Did you even watch the video? All the retaining bolts were hidden under detail. Also, working spring suspension and tracks.

>>6272763
Yes, I've watched it. But I haven't bothered to sit there studying every frame in detail to see were every screw head and joint ends up.

So painted it'll just end up looking like, well, any plastic kit really. Working suspension and tracks isn't something that sets it apart either.

>>6272735
A plastic 1/35 one looks more detailed and accurate. Not even the machining is all that impessive.

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>>6272814
Hard to say about the detail with a lack of good pictures but the tank was mainly to show off the company's CNC machining.

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I'm Z31 guy, I've been procrastinating on painting it, and was sidetracked by my Aoshima 1944 Nagato. Got a pick of it thus far - I feel like with pagoda masts, I should say it's moving up.

>>6273098
-Should note, I haven't glued almost anything down yet. I didn't pay attention to fit it properly for the pic.

>>6273098
that got me thinking how do you drill a small square hole.

>>6273132
What do you mean? The lattice structure at the smoke stack? The kit includes one that's not solid, but it insists I not use it. Probably going to, anyway.

>>6273135
I was looking at those little square windows on the lowest row. I could drill them round with a pin vice but how would you make them square, if you wanted to that is, just thinking hypothetically.

>>6273138
Ah, yeah. One of them has a tiny bit of sprew, but I wasn't quite able to clean it out. I'm still learning, so I'm just doing what I can.

>>6273244
im not criticizing anything about you or your model.
I was just asking more of a scratch building comment. some of the older models can often require more detail adding.

>>6273255
My dad has a 1960s or 70s Nachi model that has no detailing on the superstructure, I know what you mean.

>>6273138
If you have a sharp hobby knife, you can probably angle cut the corners in (tapering the blade inwards at the bottom for the angle) but make sure you wear eye protection. The tips can snap and fly off to who-knows where. You shouldn't need much pressure at all to get the job done.
Alternatively, you could take a needle and a file or sandpaper and grind a squareish cross section before pushing it down into the hole. This might raise the edges visibly, which would call for light sanding with high grit abrasive. Or a paperclip.
You mount them into a hobby knife handle. Try low pressure first to get a feel of how soft the plastic is. Might be helpful to color opposite facings of the flat to orient your tool easier. Sharpie or other permanent marker should do the trick.

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Anons how do I motivate myself to finish models?

I'd rather lay in bed watching anime and sleeping but I have so many models to finish, they take so much effort...

>>6273918
Most of the effort is in starting because once you're sitting in front of it doing something, no matter how small, you'll probably start doing a little bit more. And a little bit more. Try this: just tell yourself you're going to just assemble one piece, something simple, and then you can go watch your Chinese cartoons.
Even if you do just that one thing and manage to tear yourself away to watch your tentacle porn, you've made progress. All you have to do then is make a ritual out of it and you'll slowly get a kit done.

I usually do my modeling while waiting in queues for my videogame fix. At least these days.

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>>6273936
>have 20 started kits
>only completed 4 kits in 4 years

>>6273940
What kind of kits?

>>6273955
1/72 aircraft and armor. Some 1/35 armor and a couple of 1/48 aircraft. A few figures

>>6274050
Pick the simplest of them and start in on it to whittle the numbers down.

>>6274120
I tend to add more detail to kits but then I lose interest. I haven't built anything out of the box in a long time

>>6273918
Make the models while watching cartoons

I just worked on a model whist taking a shit.

>>6273940
I know the feeling. I work 7 days a week, and my freetime is limited. Being depressed makes it hard to start working, I just sit on the computer, not even playing games. You have to just decide to start, if you do, like the other dude said, things start getting done.

>>6274153
But then I can't read subtitles, or appreciate the animation.

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>>6264895
Okay guys, you seem to know your shit, so I come here with a question. Does anyone else tend to have trouble weathering airbrush painted armor kits?

I mean, until recently, I used exclusively brushes to paint my kits, and I do think I reached an acceptable to good level, pic related.

However, now that I've gotten myself an airbrush, I can't weather for shit anymore. The main color ends up looking so smooth and silky that whatever I try to do, it ends up looking like random splotches on a dyed plastic toy. What can I do? I tried dry brushing with highlight and background colors, washing, highlighting the edges with bare metal, but everything looks awful, without exception.

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>>6274326
Another one I think is well done, although a bit over-weathered. And when I tried to do a BTR-60PB, a very similar looking vehicle, with a similar paintjob (with another color, closer to green than to dark khaki), in the same scale, lolfuckyou, it ended up looking bland as hell, with some barely discerneable brown and tan drybrushing to try to simulate dust, a terrible looking pinwash in the recessed parts, and some either invisible, either exaggerated bits of steel color on the edges.

>>6274326
>The main color ends up looking so smooth and silky that whatever I try to do, it ends up looking like random splotches on a dyed plastic toy.

Airbrush in some tonal differences. Then slap on a dot filter. Some pin wash or similar to brign out details might not help with this issue, but is good anyway.

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>>6274455
Working very slowly. Haven't painted anything on the figure since the last time. I'll probably try to do something like this

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>>6274477
Or maybe something like this with the blinds closed

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>>6274532
Did some sketching. I'll lower the window a little bit and maybe add some farming tools. Got this neat bucket from RB model so might as well use it.

>>6274626
I actually really like this

>>6274626
>even the scale model slavs will squat given the chance

>>6274626
if hes meant to be looking around a corner, the window wouldn't be that close the side of the building. nor would it be that low I think.
sorry to be autistic.

>>6274669
That's not the figure I'll be using and the one I will be using is not meant to be looking behind the corner

>>6274708
What figure'll you be using? Have you got pics? The window idea is really nice, but as the other Anon said, it should be a bit higher.

What is the most accurate out of the box 1/72 armor kit?

I was thinking a T-34, sherman or panther as these are the most common kits and they all have relatively simple geometries and relatively little protruding details

>>6275019
Yeah. I'll probably make the window higher. Doesn't really look right that low.
I wish the miniart figure bases were like 7cm in diameter instead of 5.

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that feel when you cut a big chunk of model away, and you don't know if you have the skill to scratch build it all back.

Does anyone have experience using magnet wires for LEDs? I tried once and couldn't really get it to work.

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Moebius Models is putting out the first plastic model of the Discovery from 2001. 40 inches long.

1/144 scale so you can display gunpla next to it for a mecha escort.

>>6276055
>Moebius

What a shame, their kits are pretty low quality both in terms of injection mold detail, engineering and fit. I wish there was a better company doing sci-fi models out there. Bandai does Star wars, but that's all they do.

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>>6276663
I sorta take back what I said, the test shots do indeed look very good for this kit in particular from this video I found, but they're just test shots. I hope that the actual kit ends up looking this good because I'd definitely be interested in it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YxRzUVhpkM

>>6276663
>their kits are pretty low quality both in terms of injection mold detail, engineering and fit.

Any specific Moebius kits you are referring to that are low quality?

I bought their classic Galactica Viper and Viper MK VII 1/32 kits recently, have not built them yet. Am I in for a frustrating build? The detail on them looks pretty good.

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>>6276683
Let me be more clear, I shit on them a little too hard. Their kits aren't terrible, you can build them and they can turn out into nice kits, but they are a smaller company with less resources I think, they don't have the top of the line tooling that companies like Tamiya for example have with their aircraft / vehicle kits.

They're far more comparable to Revell in quality, which means not terrible, but you're not getting a lot of fabulous detail out of the box, so they're on the low end in terms of scale models, but you can still get nice looking kits if you put a lot of effort into it.

The test shot shown in the video above looks excellent, but I doubt the actual kit will look like that because the details just won't be as sharp as something that is 3D printed like that.

You should build that Viper, actually your post about Moebius made me realize even though I'm a massive fan of BSG I never built their Viper kit before, and my LHS has one in stock. It also doesn't hurt that I'm in the middle of re-watching through BSG right this very moment.

I literally just ordered some photo etch sets (Greenstrawberry Mk II and Mk VII wheel bay / interior / exterior sets) from ebay as well and I'm going to pick up the kit in a few day. They look like really nice photo etch for the kits so if you plan on building yours you should pick them up.

Oh, and I've built their Galactica kit. Actually, I can't believe I never finished this thing, it doesn't even look bad. All I really need to do is pain the resin guns I bought and place them on, then flat coat the kit. I might go back and do that tomorrow. I have a really bad habit of just not finishing kits for some reason. That wash has been on there for years, idk if I can even remove it at this point.

>>6267657
nice ford focus

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finally

>>6276699
The wash looks absolutely fine from the camera photo. If you want to finish it quick, you wont need to do anything else to it in my opinion.

>>6276642
ive been waiting on their proteus since forever
so don't expect it any time soon.
not that im complaining since I don't have the money for it this year.

they also re did their seaview models, to change the mold and still haven't put the movie version back out.

fuck me its a slow company.

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>>6276710
Thanks my boy. 2015 pushing 170hp
>>6276683
I built their Viper and I had a lot of fun with it, I think you should too. If I could fix one thing I'd fix the chipping because it looks too symmetrical and uniform

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>>6276952
think I saw some concept art for one of those the other day.
comes with a model kit or something.
I like the scifi bg, it would make a good base.
I always get them mixed up with star wars

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>>6276952
We should do a Viper Mk. VII group build. I just ordered one yesterday, and this >>6276683 other anon is building one too.

I'm actually working right now with some paint mixes to get a good color for the base blue, I also found these CGI Renders from the guys that did the shows CGI:

http://www.galactiguise.com/welcome/sets/official-colour-chips/
http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=427

The color is some kind of bluish-gray silver color, and it's painted on what looks like a silver metal base. When I get mine I'll probably do a layer of alclad, then some chipping fluid and the blue metallic base color over that so I can do some chipping.

This is the official color they used for painting it in the show apparently too. Going to try and make something that matches this roughly using Tamiya X-13 Metallic Blue as a base color and lightening it.

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Did some experimentation trying to find the right color for the Mk. VII. I think the closest one I made so far is XF-2 + X-13 + X-32 in a 2:2:1 ratio. This gives it a slightly metallic look and is relatively close to the paint chip that they used on the show, but still needs adjusting.

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>>6277302
>Viper Mk. VII group build
>mfw. I have unbuilt Mk. II, but no Mk.VII

>>6277407
Then get one m8. I'm getting a Mk. II as well, so why not just make it a Viper group build in general?

Oh, also the kit is pretty dirty cheap here:

https://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/mob00916.htm

Only $23. Pretty good price.

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My first build after more than ten years away from the hobby

I'm already feeling like strapping firecrackers to it

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I took some of Dad's old models off the shelf to dust them, but there's such a heavy layer of shit on it that a rag isn't going to cut it.

Is there a big-strength sort off goo gone stuff out there that'll remove it without damaging the paint job? It's a ten year old model.

>>6277563
First, I would take a compressed air duster and try and remove as much as possible.

Then, to get whatever is left I would just take some soapy water and a sponge and just work at it. I doubt it will effect the paint.
Avoid using any solvents, i don't know what goo gone stuff is made of, but it could damage the paint so I would avoid it. Try just using a damp soapy sponge. Should get all the dust right off and will dry clean.

>>6277563
See if you can find out if he varnished them. If he did, warm soapy water's the best bet. If he didn't, you could lift any waterslide transfers.

Whats the cheapest way to cast a single part? Its about a half inch long. One half of a 1/72 x wing pod. Accidentally destroyed one with heat, have a spare still on the sprue

>>6277757
cheapest way? customer service. If the company still exists/ is decent they will send you a replacement sprue which contains the lost part.

>>6277757
if u cant get replacement I suggest look on pinterest. theres lots of diy casting using home ingredients.

>>6277790
Unfortunately its from Bandai and I would have to file a request with the importer who would then reach out to bandai. Could take as long as a year with no confirmation on whether theyre actually sending replacement parts.

>>6271065
1/48 uboots maybe?

>>6277757
Go to /wip/ over at /tg/. Some people there have excessive recasting knowledge.

>>6277757
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVZLXLaidjQ
Try this

>>6278694
Ordered some today. Looking forward to trying this weekend

>>6278694
>>6277757

I'm pretty sure that's repackaged oyumaru. You should be able to get it way cheaper than 14 Euros if you look for it as oyumaru. I posted a while back about use it to cast a single piece mold.

>>6273918
First, you lie in bed. You lay eggs and lay traps.

Secondly, unless you're a poor healthfag like me, you got no excuse and even I manage sometimes. Though not in a year or so.

My advice is, put some shows on that are relevant to your models.

Making tanks? Put on some WW2 documentaries or some anime that fits that like GuP or whatever.

If that doesn't work, I suggest doing the simple bits first, then do a single difficult bit a day. Eventually you'll get so close to finishing you'll get it done.

But if this is you >>6274233 then I agree it is hard. I do what you're doing. I dunno how to break the cycle. The fact I have health problems makes it near impossible to justify sitting down in agony knocking back dozens of morphine pills or ampoules.

I truly hope you find your focus, anon. If you're not on treatment for depression, I'd look into that.

>>6273918
this is a hobby, do whatever the fuck you want; don't force yourself. wait for inspiration.

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Ready for transfers.

>>6279647
Looks cool, my dude. Is that an actual paint pattern for that aircraft? The colors look cool.

>>6279935
Yes, it's the proper camouflage. The blue is a bit greener and the green a bit browner in some photos, but I think that's mostly weathering. Here's the specific aircraft, a J35F2, #34 of F1, Västmanland's Air Group, somewhere between 1967 and d1983.

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>>6279988

>>6279989
I'd say the biggest differences in color are due to the lighting in an old photo. That plane in the photo is also super clean - As someone who works with aircraft, that thing is well maintained.

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Meticulously planning the wiring for 4 leds in a 1/72 x wing. One down, 3 to go

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>>6280150
Yeah, that's a fresh one. Here's something that pulls more towards the green-brown.

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And a bit more.

Of course, when it comes to not repainting the J35, the Danes appear to have been in a class of their own.

http://www.ipmsstockholm.se/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=285

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Trying to come up with a good wooden deck effect using all stiff brushes, acrylics and streaking grime. atm. its a bit dark and "dirty", trying to get it as close to the material on the background as i can.

>>6280855
Looks quite well anon i didnt knew hand brushing would give such nice effects .airbrushing tend to make it look unatural

>>6280862
Only thing I airbrushed was the basecolor, and that was Tamiya wooden deck tan, which is a very nice shade of color on itself.

>>6280855
what scale and kit is this? Bismarck? I have a few of those lying around.
plan to paint mine too, got the lifecolour wood painting set to do it.

>>6280911
It's Bismarck, I know that due to where the crane would be mounted. My guess is it's that Dragon Bismarck that a dude here said he got, with the vinyl parts for the superstructure that blow ass.

So after a generous amount of MicroSol, sitting overnight, another generous helping, and then another five hours this stuff ain't quite what you'd hope. Flying colour decals btw, Hasegawa had no part in this bit.

Luckily some half forgotten memory started itchign in my mind,a nd hitting the books it seems the overall camo and marking scheme here was adopted in 64, F1 got their Drakens in 71-72, but the large wing markings weren't added until 1978.

So as far as I can tell I can just get rid of them, leaving the aircraft as it was in the mid seventies. Which frankly works out great, because if I had wanted a late J35 I would just have made a J35J.

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>>6280953
...has anyone heard anything about MicroSol vapours affecting short time memory?

>>6280911
1/700 Dragon Bismarck as >>6280919 said. I have been putting off continuing with it because of the vinyl superstructure and making the deck look nice. Now that im getting one of two out of way i´ll probably get some more motivation to continue.

>>6281024
On a note for you - The World of Warships Italeri Bismarck is a Dragon rebox with the PE. Thought you'd find that interesting.

>>6280953
What are you even talking about

>>6281077
WITHOUT the PE. Sorry.

>>6281080
If the vinyl sucks that bad, there's a source for new parts, since the kit is a rebox.

>>6281080
The decal. Wrinkled to hell.

Or, as it turned out, kinda not. Havering pulled it off, the wrinkles were there in the paint underneath. This is going to be a fucking headache.

>>6281119
it did look like an incredible amount of orange peel.

My advice? Gloss coat it and then use polishing compound to smooth out the surface. That will allow the decals to sit flat.

>>6281100
I didn't pay attention to who he was talking to. Now I feel like an idiot.

>>6281125
The photo was taken to bring out the surface texture as much as possible. Great it ain't, but it doesn't look quite that awful under normal light.

And the problem isn't silvering or anything like that. The problem is the outright creasing you can see in the decal. Those wrinkles aren't just in the decal, they're in the paint/clear coat underneath.

Sure, not something that's complicated to fix. But I can't say I'm looking forward to sanding down and then most likely repainting that part of the wing. Getting some polishing compound could perhaps allow for some hope of not having to grind through the paint, but since it's probably the paint itself that has creased up I have my doubts.

Time to see what the finest wet sanding paper I have lying around is.

>>6281153
gloss coat + polishing compound is how many top tier modellers achieve smooth paint. Just watch someone try to paint an F1 Car for example

>>6281160
I'll keep that in mind if I ever do anything meant to be high gloss I guess.

And the fucking paint's gone rubbery on me, so I can't even start un-fucking this straight away. This really is the build that just wasn't meant to be.

>>6280954

You should not use microsol on decals that big. You can use microset instead.

I'm going to start with this hobby and I noticed in one of the guides that the practice of re releasing very old and dated molds seems quite common.

I want to make sure that the first kits I get aren't a product of ancient engineering or especially beginner unfriendly.

If you have a beginner friendly kit specific recommendation or just tips on what the warning sign of a kit being an ancient mold is, that would be appreciated.

>>6281296
Always check scalemates before buying. Thatll tell you the age of a kit. What are you interested in?

>>6281296
www.scalemates.com

That's basically all you need to know here.

>>6281304
>>6281307

I just checked the site really quickly before asking my question, now I see that they even have a timeline with kits getting new parts and stuff. So I guess an old kit with a recent update can actually be decent?

>>6281304

I guess fairly modern vehicles rather than ww2 stuff. Might start with a tank.

>>6281317
>So I guess an old kit with a recent update can actually be decent?

"New box" is the same stuff, just new boxart.
"New decals" is the same, but with different decals. Hasegawa loves to churn out a deluge of these.
"New parts" means a few parts have been changed or added, usually to make a different variant. The base kit is the same.

And finally "New tool" means it's an entirely new kit. That's the update that matters.

Not that a brand new kit is a guarantee that shit will be good (in any way, details, accuracy, fit, engineering). Research any specific kit that you're interested in, you never know.

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Got the Viper Mk. VII kit as well as replacement photo etch for the cockpit and exterior.

The kit itself is, well... pretty much incredibly mediocre. Panel lines are far too wide / deep and it looks more like a toy than a model kit. Flash everywhere on the sprues, and the detail is extremely lacking. In total the kit is only about 40 parts. Fit is pretty poor as well, and some of the parts are slightly warped... pretty disappointing overall. The viper mk. II kit is even worse in terms of details. That said there's enough to make a good looking viper with the extra photo etch details. The worst part has to be the canopy though, it's just way too thick and doesn't fit very well on the model. The photo etch gives you parts to display the canopy open which I'll be doing. All that said, at least someone is making BSG kits, without Moebius we would probably have nothing.

The photo etch itself is great, it's from a company called "Greenstrawberry" that does photo etch upgrade sets for sci-fi kits, and it's all around excellent and has great instructions / fit.

>>6281537
>All that said, at least someone is making BSG kits, without Moebius we would probably have nothing.

I really want some Descent Freespace kits.

...

Nothing.

>>6281541
Far too obscure for anyone to every make anything, outside of maybe a garabge kit. Hell, it's probably too obscure for even that.

>>6281547
Meant to say garage kit, not garbage, lel.

>>6271082
Why only a Panzer II and sherman 105 though?

Something as a Tiger or Panzer IV is much more popular, or at least if it is because they would be much bigger make a Luchs.

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More progress on the Moebius kit. I'm making it so that the canopy can be opened or closed, I made a hinge device for it that required some surgery.

Looking over this kit though, it's such garbage. I get that Moebius is maybe trying to price their kits lower, but even for a $25 kit the quality is atrocious. They must outsource their work to China too, because the parts say made in China, which is why the tooling is such garbage and has such poor fit. They must manufacturer the molds as well, instead of Moebius themselves making them.

Look at this for example too, the circled red area is a panel line that should keep running all the way to the edge of the fighter, but for some reason stops in the middle of the panel for no reason at all. Chalk it up to shitty chink machinery making a bad tool, and leaving it uncorrected. The pilot's seat is also laughable bad, I've seen far superior detail in your average $5.00 1/72 kit. It's also inaccurate compared to prop photos / CGI renders of the Mk. VII.

I mean honestly, I'd gladly pay 2-3x the price to just get a well-detailed, quality kit of these same subjects. Too bad such a cheap company got the Battlestar license.

>>6281906
At least you can scribe that line easily

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Managed to finally finish something. Just wanted to get this out of the way. I have too many started kits.
http://imgur.com/a/jG6zZ

>>6282337
>http://imgur.com/a/jG6zZ
Looks pretty good.

>>6282341
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMwUyUk3-X0

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can airbrush performance degrade over time?

also, can you have "dry tip" because the air is too humid?

Few questions here, painting the 1/32 takom king tiger with internals:

1) For details, do you handbrush or airbrush? airbrush seems a hell lot of work, with the need to mask, etc. I'm talking about things like shells, seats, hatches, hire extinguisher, etc. Handbrushing seems easier, and will have no noticable brushmarks.

2) How many layers of varnish do you use? I've seen gloss->decal & pinline->matt->weather. I've also seen lots of people just hitting it with satin after the base coat, and not coating it at all after that.

3) Iwata HP-CS or HP-CR?

>>6283107
youre meant to keep your airbrush lubricated.
its metal rubbing against metal.
and never use harsh interdental type brushes to clean nozzles

as for tip dry. I hear retarder can help with that.
but keep a qtip on hand with some thinners to keep your tip for getting dried on paint.
I think. there are videos on this on jewtube.

>>6283548
how to lube airbrush?

>>6283560
if only there was somewhere you could ask such questions and get instructional videos on how to do it.

>>6283561
if only someone typed "use x product" instead of some sarcastic remark.

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>>6283576
Here you go.

>>6283580
and you guys wonder why it's so dead in here

>>6283560
>>6283561
>>6283576
>>6283580
>>6283585
Dawg. Take airbrush apart. Put lube on threads and moving parts. Put airbrush together.

>>6283576
>"use x product"
that not what he asked you tard.

>>6283615
>you tard.
use x product in x way

that wasnt so hard now was it. You guys really are autismo

>>6283639
>googling how to use x product in x way

that wasnt so hard now was it.

>>6283646
>google it instead of asking in a forum thread dedicated to the subject at hand

You're right, I'll just fuck off to google then. Bye autismo

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Bump you goofballs

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>can't use tamiya acrylics without paint retarder

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>>6285220
>not using retarder with any acrylics

>>6285245
>being bad

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So after some assorted sanding, cursing, fixing, mending, calling upon Zathoth, poking and a generous amount of satin varnish later I think it's time to put this one down and back away slowly, carefully, without sudden movements.

>>6285351
>that nerve wrecking moment where you decide "it's fine as it is" and leave it but then you reconsider that a little touch can't hurt only to fuck it up and end up with an even worst situation that requires even more work to fix

it's the little things

>>6285356
>>6285351
Looks great. Black is very difficult to paint and you did an excellent job

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This kit is requiring quite a lot of work, just cleaning up all the flash / bad molding on the parts takes forever, and there's so much poor molding that has to be puttied and sanded.

Something I noticed that really sticks out on a lot of the surfaces are these very subtle scratches that look like they are from the shitty tooling, like they cut the steel but didn't bother to polish / clean up the cut marks properly. Had to sand a lot of that down, especially on the engines which meant I had to re-scribe some details there too. I noticed the same thing on the Galactica kit as well. I also scribed that missing panel line on the fuselage.

I'm doing quite a bit of scratch building to make it look more like a model and less like a toy, for example replacing the far too thick landing gear bay plastic covers with a piece of thin styrene. I'm probably going to end up scratch building a better looking pilot seat as well using some greenstuff and styrene, since the one that comes with the kit is so basic and barren.

I am also thinking about altering the landing gear heavily to give it more detail. I also have yet to drill out the air intakes on the wings which Moebius didn't bother to include on the kit.

>>6285928
You are a prolific builder. Myoko on the backburner right now?

>>6285356
he is crooked!!!

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I'm kind of bored of building tanks and planes.

What's a really good model ship to go for? I'm thinking about the Hobbyboss 1/350th USS Arizona.

>>6286849
>googling 1/350 ships

that wasnt so hard now was it?

>>6286849
>What's a really good model ship to go for
depends what takes your fancy, what you like the look of, what youre passionate about.

no one can tell you that.

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>>6275694
this geometry is proving difficult.
im on my third attempt at the mocking it up with cardboard stage before I go cutting up my expensive plasticard sheet.
one half of me regrets starting but the other half knows I gotta fail a few times before I get there.

>>6286992
Looks pretty neat. Why did you decide to cut it out? Wasn't accurate?

>>6287001
yea the kit was made from a prototype before the final LEM was made, the inaccuracies meant I couldn't add a couple of aerials later on where theyre meant to be.
I tell you its easier to cut things away than it is to add them back.

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Done my dudes, I got the badges on after this pic was taken

>>6287448
Looks pretty cool, my man. Does it have an engine or anything?

>>6287518
yup, you could have it stock or stacked, but they didn't have a cut hood to go with it, plus I felt like making mine stock.

>>6287448
Also, as an addendum to this post, does anyone know of a glue that you can use that prevents frosting on chrome casted parts?

Can someone tell me how to use liquid mask to fo paint chips? I've done it before with good results buts I tried today and could not remove the masking fluid

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>mfw the laser cannon mount broke off my X-Wing and it was the only piece I glued in for extra support

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>>6287842
Tfw you break an engine and have to cast a new one

>>6287853
Fuck that sucks. Is that the Bandai kit?

>>6287531
Something like Zap Foam Safe should reduce the risk of it at least. But you're probably looking at "not CA glue" to be really safe.

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Finished my first ever tank model enjoyed building it honestly. Now to just learn how to paint camo, anyone got any tips on doing camo as a beginner?

>>6288461
do you own a airbrush?

>>6288472

Nope no airbrush

>>6288477
then ur fuck'd

but srsly. buy spray can paint in color you like and paint whole thing with it, then use nice and thin paints to applay othe colors with brush. simple.

>>6285559
>black is a difficult color to paint
>the easiest color to use and get even coatings
I want shitters and tards out.
Nice job in the plane >>6285351 tho

>>6287907
Yup. I was able to do a pretty good job. After priming and puttying its hard to tell which one is cast

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Just ordered this sexy bitch from Japan, should arrive in may or so

>>6288784
How much was it?

>>6288787
$36 on ebay, took the free shipping

>>6288787
Also here's a link if you want it, but there's only two left from them apparently

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Hasegawa-SW04-Hitachi-Double-Arm-Working-Machine-ASTACO-NEO-1-35-kit-Japan-/162213110517?txnId=1542617338006

>>6286247
Yeah, I stopped working on it because I'm kinda tired of building ship kits for the moment (at least Aquatic ones).

>>6286849
Arizona is a good choice, and 1/350 is a good scale to start off with ships. Beware though, it requires a different sort of approach to painting / weathering that tanks and aircraft require, and you're going to want to paint / weather the ship in sections, for example the hull, and the upper structure separately, and then glue everything together once you're done weathering.

The Hobby Boss Arizona is a newer kit though, I'd go for that one and get an aftermarket photo etch set like LionRoar, Flyhawk or Pontos.

>>6287757
What kind of liquid mask are you using? I prefer to use something like with AK or MIG's chipping fluid.
I like to lay down fluids like you're talking about (Humbrol maskol for example) with a small piece of a paint sponge (like those shitty ones you get at a hardware store) and a pair of tweezers to hold it. Dip it into the chipping fluid and then using a paper towel get most of the fluid out of the sponge, and then dab it onto the model where you want chipping done.

>>6289283
I put the chipping fluid on with a spong and attempted to remove it with tape. It just stuck too good so Im back to using hairspray. Its micromask

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Xwing starting to come together. Got roughly 10000 more panels to mask which takes forever

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>>6289444
this is the recast engine

>>6289421
you know people don't really use masking fluid for chips. they just chip with a sponge, and use actual chipping fluid for the big stuff.

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>>6290006
forgot to attach image.

>>6289483
No, actually. Its the one underneath the one you circled. Its just a bad picture

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From our friends at reddit

>>6290365
Post some of your builds

>>6290365

suddenly I don't feel so bad about my shitty camo paint jobs

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>>6290377
K

>>6290385
So you're the faggot who keeps posting pics from reddit

>>6290398
Nah, first time

Will dullcote seal my decals along with the model or do I have to spray some bonder before applying the finish?

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>>6290427

>>6290432
Answer my question you prick cocksucker

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haven't made a dio in about ten years but thought this turned out alright. still need to add the 8 ton which should take about 2 weeks to finish

>>6290624
I like it

>>6290624
what process did you use when making the half track, i have it and im not sure how i should go about painting since it has an open drivers seat and if i were to glue everything first i wouldn't be able to paint it.

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>>6290645
thanks senpai

>>6290651
i pretty much just painted it dark grey then brush painted with a very very light grey with sponge chipping and AK fluids, i didn't do much to the inside except for some brushwork and light wear because it's barely exposed from the dioramas perspective.
as for your's i would just paint the base coat on and see how well you do with brushes for the interior, mistakes can be covered up with weathering and wet brushes if you use acrylics as you put it on. you might find better answers if you stick around.

>>6290706
so what? just assemble the thing entirely then paint it and not really care for the interior?

>>6290708
if it's just going to be the halftrack then yeah put more effort into the interior if you want like chipping and weathering, but i pretty much just painted the dials, driving wheel, and seats with a brush since the kit is so minimalistic.

>>6290722
yea but how did you do it, while it was inside or did you prepaint the interior then glue it shut and masked it off or what?

>>6290763
yeah i painted it on the inside after i put the basecoat on. it's a bitch to do and won't look amazing but i'm always afraid of glue leaking from the cracks in the hull during assembly.
you could try painting before putting on the upper hull just gotta be careful about it

>>6290385
It's the Millenium Falcon, not a coal fired power plant, chill with the soot.

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>>6290365
It's no fair if you only post the bad builds at reddit.

If there is a part which goes over another part which will obstruct painting the part underneath should i attach the upper part after priming black and then basecoat (leaving the obstructed area primer black for a shadow-effect (?)) or should i basecoat them both while they're still separate?

>>6291139
In that case I like to base coat when separate, but someone with an airbrush could attach them before painting

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Okay, Im done with the Bismarck. I will get back to it when i have means to get resin parts or something to fix that horrible vinyl superstructure. Its a shame to leave it unfinished since i think i did pretty well with the wooden deck painting, but its for my own mental sanity.

Inspired by >>6285928 , I have started project "Viper Mk II, kill urself my man". As other anon said, the quality is not really that good, but atleast its real plastic this time and in large scale so scratchbuilding will be easy, and i like scratchbuilding. Thinking about making hangar scene with some 1/35 figures around it.

>>6291570
Is that the Moebius Viper MkII? IIRC that's 1/32 scale

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do anyone have scans of this book? i've checked /hwg/'s folders but they don't have it and my google-fu is failing me.

>>6291656
I found AK (and MIG as well) ebooks to be extremely rare and difficult to come by without paying money for them.

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Can anyone recommend me some good clear varnish that isn't not from fucking Vallejo and not some floor wax?
The fucking beaner varnish just ruined 2 months of work and it clogs my airbrush all the time.

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I has been quite a while since i posted last in here. For some reason my countries whole IP range gets banned all the time


Anyway, my current build, the Tamiya 1/48 Elefant.

>>6291656
Sturm-Anon here, I gotchu senpai.
I'll post the table of contents later. I can't be bothered to scan it all cause it's got about 80 pages, but a handful of topics are doable.

>>6291720
why what happened? I haven't used any of mine yet I got some alclad clears.

>>6291784
I used isopropyl to thin it.
It appeared to dry way to fast so it clogged up my airbrush after very short time.
I tried to do it with water but it left orange peel skin behind.
The model surface feels and looks like fine grit sandpaper.

>>6291801
post it

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Completed another started kit that's long overdue. 1/72 Dragon M3A2 Bradley

http://imgur.com/a/Z1eDR

>>6291720
Whats wrong with future?

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>>6291808

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>>6291805
The entire surface looks like this

>>6291812
Not available in europe

>>6291827
B-17 guy? Just buy some Alclad Aqua gloss. Works like a charm

>>6291830
>B-17 guy?
Yeah. Will it cure the orange peel skin or do I have to do some additional sanding? Anyway thanks I'll check it out.

>>6291808
What did you use for the washing?
Looks solid.

>>6291832
Bough a US modern vehicle weathering kit from Ammo at a modelling show last year

>>6291801
Add retarder. Orange peel can also be because you spray on too little, the droplets can't connect to each other to make an even coat.

>>6291827
>Not available in europe
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

>>6291832
A solid coat of varnish can fix orange peel. But I won't promise anything.

>>6291856
I have Tamiya paint retarder. I think that should work too. Maybe I'll try again.

>Orange peel can also be because you spray on too little

How do I spray clear coat properly? Do I spray several layers or a single thick layer? Because I tried spraying several layers and it didn't work.

That article is quite old and I'm not sure if some of these products still exist. Thanks.

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>>6291813
And the next project. 1/48 Eduard Bf 108 Weekend edition

>>6291602
Yes it is. But the difference between 1/32 and 35 is really not that big.
The crew can be manlets, right?

>>6291866
A pretty thick coat. A high gloss coat it seems may outright need a wet coat, that is enough paint for it to sit around as a liquid layer that can freely level itself out before it dries. Satin and matte might not demand it, but that's probably the way to the best results there too.

Of course, you don't want so much varnish there that it runs or clogs up details before a wash. The safety margins aren't generous.

>>6291727
Nice, I've just finished the 1/35 kit and it was easily one of my favourite builds, the zimmerit strips were a bit of a bitch though.

Elefant is love, Elefant is life.

>>6291880
>A high gloss coat it seems may outright need a wet coat
Oh shit I wish someone had told me that earlier.
Thanks again.

>>6288461
>>6288486
Try to keep it simple too, it will make your life a lot easier.

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First model since childhood. Camera is a bit screwed up so the image looks a bit hazy.

I know it's not as clean as it probably should have been (especially above the mantlet) but I'm pretty happy with it at this point.

Any tips on how to paint on unit numbers? Don't have enough decals.

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>>6292005
1: Open in Photoshop
2: Click "Auto Color"
3: Profit!

There's probably a good supply of third party decals available.

>>6292019
ohshit, thanks anon

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>>6291656
>>6291738
Here you go, let me know what you want and I'll scan it for you

>>6291827

Same happened to me with vallejo clear coat spraycan, totally shit.

You can fix it by using micromesh and polishing it.

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Finished my Dragon Jagdpanzer IV. Criticism is welcome.

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>>6292093

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>>6292098

>>6292098

Love the tracks. Do you think it would look better with a flat coat or is it still drying in the pictures? Looks a bit glossy for a tank.

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>>6292100

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>>6292101
Yeah I should apply a flat coat on it. Thanks
>>6292102

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I'm looking to build the USS Charette at some point hopefully not too far in the future. Now since the kit's painting guide is for the USS Cushing in full camouflage, could anyone tell me what grey would be good for the Charette?

>>6292093
That ain't bad.

>>6292098
Gloss was already mentioned, but that could be due to the light.

The exhaust shouldn't be in camo afaik.

Besides that i like it alot.

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>>6292077
chapter 3 an 9 please
also check'd

>>6292102
>>6292112
It looks good, but idk if you're not finished weathering or whatever, but you should lay down a nice flat / matte coat because it looks pretty glossy.

>>6292149
It depends on the USN measure, for something in 1943
Refer to this wiki article:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_War_II_ship_camouflage_measures_of_the_United_States_Navy

I also found this source
http://www.shipcamouflage.com/fletcher_class.htm
ctrl+f charrette and it states that in 1943 the ship wore Measure 21, meaning it was a dark navy blue (5-N) color on the whole ship. As for making this color, you could probably mix your own variant shade that's close enough, or you could buy a USN paint set from a company like AK Interactive that has their own 5-N color.

I've mixed 5-N plenty of times in the past, but I can't remember what my exact ratio was. I mostly used a mixture of XF-18 and XF-50, maybe with a few drops of XF-17 thrown in as well. Should get you something close enough if you use Tamiya. Deck Blue which would have been used for the decks on measure 21 ships is pretty much the same color, maybe a tad bit lighter, so adding a few drops of XF-1 would do the trick.

>>6291871
Anything is possible in the Future!

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>>6292192
Here you go, some tips from me:
Use black oils to emphasize the darkest shadows, an overall black wash helps when your uniform looks too light.

Paint the faces with oils over a base acrylic flesh tone if possible. Burnt Sienna for shadows, white and light flesh tones for highlights.

>>6292242
Nice, that seems to have been just what I needed to get going.

Maybe go with the '45 style. Well, I have time to change my mind back and forth a few times there before I get cracking. Gotta get some progress into Vasa first.

>>6292077
>>6292192
>>6292263
>>6292277
you asked him to scan a book for generic information that could have been found on the internet in 2 seconds.
what a fucking waste.

>>6292277
is there any useful information in the book? besides how do I paint.

>>6292306
there's some stuff on how to do pea dot/ M44 camo, I found that one quite nice but also kind of basic/trivial.
For someone who doesn't know shit about figure painting, it's an okay book, although their camouflage books are better.