Hey /toy/ I have an inquiry.
I am trying to sell some figures from my collection. They have been unboxed, but I have the original packaging, all the parts, and the figures are in good as new condition. How much should I downscale them based on their condition, or upscale them based on their availability? I looked at prices online but I am not sure if they truly represent the price I should sell them for.
Put things up at a price you think they will sell for, and depending on how fast you want them to move and how much legwork you are willing to do.
If you're downscaling because of space and don't care about making any possible profit and just want the shit gone, err on the low side and go for lots where there are a few things that don't seem worth selling individually. Throw a desirable thing in a lot with crap and price it midrange and you'll be guaranteed to offload your shit fast because some mark will buy the lot to get "a deal" on a more expensive fig but actually ends up with a bunch of crap that's their problem now.
fuck off
>>5875536
As much as you would pay for the item you are selling m8. If people want to haggle, they will.
>>5875536
You should be like every other faggot that tries to resell things that are "opened, but barely used I promise!" and sell them at full price to break even :^)
>>5875536
The prices you can set are best determined by:
1. Current value at Mandarake
2. Current value on SOLD listings at eBay
3. Ignore the ridiculous prices on Amazon/eBay from scalpers who never sell their shit to anyone but the dumbest fucks.
4. Is the item smoke free, clean and has it been kept out of heat/humidity/UV light?
Finally, if you're willing to do some extra leg work you can command a higher than normal price. Take clear high quality photos from all angles and highlight any flaws on the figure in terms of paint, missing stuff and/or joint looseness issues.
A lot of sellers take a couple blurry shots and refuse to answer prying questions from buyers. So in those scenarios they have to settle for much less money since it's a bigger gamble. If you remove all questions from the equation and assure the buyer they are getting something they want in the quality they want it you can get close to "brand new" prices if the items are actually impeccable in quality.
here's a tip:
search the figure on eBay
click advanced in the top right
select "sold listings"
this will show you 6 months worth of actual sales
keep in mind this doesnt account for shill bids , sometimes the buyer doesnt actually pay. but thats the value of your toy on ebay. id youre selling it elsewhere i would mark it down some but you dont have to.
for shipping costs buy a scale and measurong tape. anything under 13 oz you can send first class. that is cheapest. more weight requires priority shipping. buy the shipping through ebay, paypal or stamps.com
hope that helped?