/wip/ WIP General

File: ElysianWipBad5.jpg (2MB, 1740x2578px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 1740x2578px

Repostan due to end of thread. Anyone got any tips on painting these Elysians? Magically finding it harder to paint than any of my other guys. Wash just makes him look dirty, have been using thin paint almost all of the time, perhaps too thin... spent quite a lot of time on this guy and am getting nowhere. Tempted to try outlining everything in black or some other crazy things I've never tried before to see how it looks.

File: IMG_20170505_013047_edit.jpg (135KB, 573x1000px) Image search: [Google]

135KB, 573x1000px

bumping with my deathcult assasin, the white and the metals came out nice so far, but i need a colour for the holsters and straps. i don't want to use black or grey, maybe a very dark blue would be nice or a jade color to go with the nihilak effect. suggestions /wip? the tiles on the base are going to be dark green

also, my camara does not like all this white

File: 1436546479911.jpg (83KB, 983x545px) Image search: [Google]

83KB, 983x545px

>>53068003

>>53068003
Looks awful.
Are you even priming them?
The cloth looks really streaky, you need a stronger colour under it, something like Rakarth flesh maybe.
The grey looks really thick and unshaded.
It's odd, your commisar doesn't actually look that bad, what do you think you're doing differently

Also why is there a wolf in a dress next to them?

File: 40k painting marine eyes details how to.jpg (13KB, 360x240px) Image search: [Google]

13KB, 360x240px

>>53068003
>the cloths needs a base of a similiar colour, using that light color on black is a bad choice
>the skin is too thick, those can really look awful if the paint is not well applied, i suggest thinning the paint down more than usual and applying 3-4 layers for the base
>the metals are a bit sloppy, and not shaded, i could suggest using a different colour for the main gun's body and keep the metallics for barrels and so forth?
>shade the thing and do some lights
>the commissar is neatly painted shade&light the red and blue parts tho
>for the elysian visors, going all black could be a bit dull, maybe you could try and paint them like lenses like pic related (just going on a black to light gray scale)

Convince me to work on my Pathfinders instead of getting drunk and playing Mario Kart

>>53069510
do it you bitch

>>53069304
Wolf was for a post elsewhere. Couldn't be bothered to take another pic.

Yeah of course I'm priming them, sadly only have black primer for now. Want to upgrade to white or something. Thinking of stripping off the paint somehow and trying again because it feels like nothing is working. I've got guys painted better than that commissar who I have spent less time trying to paint than this Elysian, it's weird.

I'm not even doing anything differently is the thing, not until now where I'm trying everything I can to try and make this work. I'm not sure what's going wrong desu, was hoping someone here could tell me.

So thiccer on the cloth parts, thinner on the grey parts which I am pretty sure I'm going thin on as it is... what about the armour? Is that okay?

File: 2017-05-04 21.25.10.jpg (1MB, 1885x1060px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 1885x1060px

Im repainting my grey knights... Main forces will be mainly red like the terminator (left) and interceptor (right). Purifiers will stay more silver (middle).

>>53069497
Is that why the cloth is going so wrong? Should I start again or paint over it or what?

Skin is too thick? You mean on the face? I barely used any paint there haha.

The gun part I'm not too worried about at the moment, I can fix that later and try out different colours. Not focused on the body of it much at all beyond a base metal colour.

Been trying to shade it a bit and all of that. Is difficult, not working at all. Will try a different visor colour though, thanks.

Commissar was easy mode compared to this.

How could one go about making a custom sniper rifle for a Kroot character? I have some pulse rifles, random doodads and some pathfinder ion rifles to use. anyone have any ideas before I start chopping shit up?

>>53069602
>Is that why the cloth is going so wrong? Should I start again or paint over it or what?
Yeah, as >>53069304 says, citadel's rakarth flesh or whatever other equivalent in color and pigment would be a good base to lay the intended color on, for now try to paint over it, if the thing comes out sloppu and thick then consider stripping the models
>Skin is too thick? You mean on the face? I barely used any paint there haha.

It seems it is, but maybe its the photo, anyways they need some shading and highlights
>Been trying to shade it a bit and all of that. Is difficult, not working at all.
wut, shading its pretty easy, what shade paints are you using?

>>53069698
Not necessarily with your bits list, but the krootrifles are somewhat reminiscent of flintlock pistols.
There is a Mechanicus with sniper rifle in the WHFB Emprire range. Or at least there used to be, not sure if GW still sells him.
Maybe check that out for inspiration.

>>53069524
Ehhhhhh

>>53069767
Image how you are gonna feel tomorrow when you are slightly overhung and strung out on shrooms.
Now think about how you are gonna feel when you dug in last night and got shit done.

>>53069510
its fun and fluffy if you paint them with a camo pattern. unless you just have a paint scheme for them, in that case just dont be the average taufag who fields a grey plastic tide.

File: 1388864541498.jpg (116KB, 480x640px) Image search: [Google]

116KB, 480x640px

>>53069767
DO IT

File: 1492828042646.gif (603KB, 500x513px) Image search: [Google]

603KB, 500x513px

>>53069797
>in that case just dont be the average taufag who fields a grey plastic tide.
I want to paint them and hate painting assembled models so this probably won't ever be an option

>>53069792
Man it's Thursday, I'm not going to get fucked.

>>53069807
FINE

File: 1489698707475.jpg (71KB, 900x635px) Image search: [Google]

71KB, 900x635px

>>53069510
>Pathfinders...

File: lwYjjSp.jpg (2MB, 2592x1936px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2592x1936px

So as pictured, my army scheme uses iron as its primary colors

Going to be painting my tanks soon, whats a good way to differentiate the metal on the tracks from the metal on the hull

I see some people paint tank tracks in a dark metallic grey color, might try mixing some black with my leadbelcher for the tank tracks to achieve that

Any tips on how I should go about this?

>>53069762
Ah, is it the one with the long scope and the bracing stick thing? Like the skaven jezzails?

File: IMG_20170504_214434704-1843x1382.jpg (362KB, 1843x1382px) Image search: [Google]

362KB, 1843x1382px

Working on a squat.
How's he look? Kinda want him to look old school

>>53069741
Feel inspired to try again now. Going to go over the pants with a base colour and try and paint over that, maybe white or grey. Might just swap over the grey completely even depending on how it looks.

Tried using nuln oil on the edges of the blue armour and the grey bits, and agrax on the yellow cloth bits. If I use too much it looks dirty though and I gotta paint over with the ushabti bone again... then sometimes I paint a little too much so I gotta use agrax again... the surfaces are very... varied in areas. It's usually easy. Maybe the frustration of painting this model is getting to me!

>>53069865
Maybe consider not doing the hull metal, go for mainly red or gold instead.
>>53069887
I love his "i'm so sick of this shit" facial expression

File: IMG_20170504_214445435-1843x1382.jpg (344KB, 1843x1382px) Image search: [Google]

344KB, 1843x1382px

The rear, I love these scale tunic all the old orks and guard had
I love his biker hair too

>>53069865
you could make use some weathering and dirt on the tracks

File: my feet hurt. this lascannon is heavy. why did I get removed? I got such awesome hair. I wish I was home existing.jpg (178KB, 556x529px) Image search: [Google]

178KB, 556x529px

>>53069902

File: a2.jpg (70KB, 640x544px) Image search: [Google]

70KB, 640x544px

>>53069902
For research purposes can you give me an example or two of chapters that do this?

Paint their vehicles a different color than their troops I mean

Also on a completely unrelated note, how much of a pain is the spartan to work with/assemble as far as resin kits go

>>53069971
Raptors would likely be painting their vehicles in camo. I can imagine Raven Guard would do the same.

File: oop_rhino_paint_schemes.jpg (856KB, 1432x1044px) Image search: [Google]

856KB, 1432x1044px

>>53069971
>For research purposes can you give me an example or two of chapters that do this?
>Paint their vehicles a different color than their troops I mean

What about just inverting the normal colours, or having a specific colour scheme for a given campaign? How far back in the lore do you want to go, anon?

File: land_raider_alternative_paint_schemes.jpg (407KB, 982x987px) Image search: [Google]

407KB, 982x987px

>>53070289
>inverting the normal colours

The Imperial Fists Land Raider pictured here is a great example of that.

File: DSCN0372.jpg (2MB, 3648x2736px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3648x2736px

weeabork update

4 are mostly done, one more is "assembled enough" for tabletop use, just needs some bluetac, but so do they all since the game is on the 8th and there's no way I'll get more than a couple actually ready for painting


making sashimonos (translator's note: sashimono means "that little flag thing on the back") that can be removed so models can be stored turned out to be easy since I can just poke a hole in a toothpick and put a wire inside. Getting the size down, as well as making the actual design so I can print em out will be harder (might have to start begging in drawthreads soon)


posing orks is a bitch, especially when you want to modify the torso and have them hold a shoota, but at least I can make shoulder pads to cover up the huge gaps

>>53070491
Stop watching anime you fucking nerd

>>53070602

I don't watch anime
I am anime

>>53070491
This isn't even funny. You probably are a massive ween irl.

>>53070491
nice. I don't get the haters. Make sure your bosspoles and nobz got those samurai sticks with the rectangular flags on their backs

>>53069971
if you check out the FW books they have diagrams of tanks just painted with a diagonal stripe of the chapter colors or some such.
Something pretty awesome I've seen a few people do for Flesh Tearers is to divide the main colors of the scheme via the buzzsaw pattern from the chapter symbol.

Anyone think that Mk.IV space marine heads would look alright on Mk.III space marine bodies?

File: ElysiansWIPBad7.jpg (2MB, 1778x2237px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 1778x2237px

Went over all of the cloth in white, and then went over in Ushabti Bone again. Seems to have helped a bunch. I guess the strat of going over it with a base colour and starting again might be the best way when it just, isn't, working. Thanks for help guys.

Also Tempestus Scions for comparison.

>>53069510
Play mario kart, I don't want any more god damned Tau in this world

File: 1488059667695.jpg (73KB, 413x395px) Image search: [Google]

73KB, 413x395px

>>53069965

File: P5040034.jpg (4MB, 2816x2112px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 2816x2112px

Hey Elegan/tg/entlemen, I'm designing my own chess set and having it 3d printed. I just got my prototype and I wanted to show off a bit.
It looks and feels great but the 'head' is too thin for my tastes, so I plan to resize it.

I got a couple more pics if anybody is interested.

>>53071042
What chapter are you painting them as?

>>53071083
No Idea, but I was gonna use this for cold casting in an iron/polyurethane blend and paint it afterwards.

Do you have any suggestions?

File: IMG_20170401_161734.jpg (43KB, 513x582px) Image search: [Google]

43KB, 513x582px

What should I do with the skin? I just realized I've never done skin like deldar are supposed to have, ie various shades of pale grey.

>>53071042
>I'm designing my own chess set and having it 3d printed
Why tho? I mean, the knight looks fine and all but it's pretty freaking generic. If you aren't doing something special what's the point?

>>53070877
Try using a wash like Nul Oil or Agrax Earthshade, followed by a grey drybrush like Terminatus stone

File: lightning claw GoC terminator.png (365KB, 970x766px) Image search: [Google]

365KB, 970x766px

Close to finished with this guy, power effect is incomplete but something for now.

>>53070934
If I wasn't already painting, I'd do it

>>53069865
Dark grey or black can work, just say they've got rubber padded tracks

>>53071132
Well, it's generic because it's a prototype to see how the material is and if it's worth it. Details with be added to the model and the painting would add further things.

As to why:
1. This piece for more of a Chess variant I came up with and last time I check, shops don't have sets for chess variants.
2. I figured it would be a cool art project. I mean, why would you paint you own models when you could just get pre-painted ones or have someone else do it?

>>53070340

That's arguably more an example of Imperial Fists using camouflage.

I would like to have an army with a purple main color or maybe cyan. What would be good for this from 40k and AoS? I'm not certain about slaaneshi units because I already have primarily nurgle daemons.

File: 1486583546271.jpg (27KB, 451x232px) Image search: [Google]

27KB, 451x232px

>>53071278
Where the fuck can you be camoflauged in a tank the size of a small house that's painted like the world's largest, angriest hornet?
Unless you're hiding on an even bigger hornet?
Christ, imagine a mountain-sized hornet COVERED in Land Raiders.

>>53071490
You can paint whatever you want in whatever color you like.
There are no rules.

File: 20170504_223255-2656x1494.jpg (370KB, 2656x1494px) Image search: [Google]

370KB, 2656x1494px

How can i achieve a glowing 'holy' effect on this sword? This is my first attempt. Trying to model The Burning Blade but focusing in the Blinding characteristic.

>>53069587
looking pretty fly, anon (save for them MOLDLINES.) good to see someone doing something different with their GK

File: 300px-Astral_Templars_colors.jpg (35KB, 300x267px) Image search: [Google]

35KB, 300x267px

>>53071490
Astral Templars have a good purple colour scheme if you don't mind sigmarines.

Protip: most people on /tg/ mind sigmarines.

>>53071630
At first glance the hilt of his sword looks like a nipple tassel.

File: anatomically correct batsuit.jpg (25KB, 480x360px) Image search: [Google]

25KB, 480x360px

>>53071676
Sigmarite armour is anatomically correct, anon. Why do you think they wear those kilts? :^ )

File: IMG_3558.jpg (97KB, 800x600px) Image search: [Google]

97KB, 800x600px

Got my delivery. New brushes and some mdf bases to test out.

File: Orks.jpg (80KB, 600x424px) Image search: [Google]

80KB, 600x424px

I found some old orks back from when I was not as good a painter, and with the new edition coming up I want to repainted.
So I just want to confirm what the guide in the OP says is correct about stripping paint.
Simple Green in a jar of some sort, let sit for a day, and then scrub with a brush?

>>53071788
Worked for me, though it didn't get the chaos black layer off

>>53070491
If you don't have greenstuff body pillow then you're wasting everyone's time.

>>53071543
>>53071630
I might give those fellows a try I don't know much about them but I will read up and also look around army wise at possibly eldar or something else thank you both!

File: rps20170505_063447.jpg (232KB, 1280x720px) Image search: [Google]

232KB, 1280x720px

>tfw so unproductive lately that this is almost 2 months worth of work
Guess I'll bring something half-finished for saturday's tourney. Was telling myself last time that I'd get a perfect appearance score but oh well.
At least the white seems to be working for the robots as good as it does my other minis.

File: image.jpg (1MB, 1936x2592px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 1936x2592px

holy shit I misjudged the size of this when I bought it.

I thought it'd be tiny like a attack bike with a bubble on top.

It's as long as a land speeder and 3 times as tall, and this is the smallest of the 3 dwarf airships.

>>53072213

Oh the choppa daki is next


can't make the schoolgirl (boy) until I get another pair of those fantasy orc legs with the skirt though

File: IMG_20170505_061959_edit.jpg (151KB, 561x1000px) Image search: [Google]

151KB, 561x1000px

>>53070491
hah, i like those anon. they make me remember the behemoth orc of confrontation, and their weab gobbo's of course (rackham goblins are best goblins) keep on going anon, will lurk for updates

>>53068087
i settled for a jade color on the straps, it looks good on the white. i also nihilak'd the groin armour, it's not realy visible in the pic but i gave it a light brush of gehenna's gold when it was dry

>>53072365
I'm just going to say it: Green has and will always go shit with white

Closer you get to yellow the more fucked things get. Yellow is evil.

File: IMAG0747 (1).jpg (459KB, 2000x1500px) Image search: [Google]

459KB, 2000x1500px

Check out my blurrynaut blurr Admiral.

File: human wave tactics intensify.jpg (418KB, 1273x850px) Image search: [Google]

418KB, 1273x850px

Oh BOY, finally managed to pick up my post. Wasn't the package I was expecting, but still, a very welcome to the family, even if it does make the family a WHOLE LOT larger than it already was.

Man, 8th ed can't come soon enough. I want to get these lads up and running ASAP. Hell, if it wasn't for college finals I'd be working on them right now.

>assemble razorwing fighter
>set down
>realize there is zero chance priming this thing in one go will work, and I can't use the stand

Any advice?

>>53072998
Prior to priming, maybe try to wrap the stand with painter's tape and paint the glass canopies with masking fluid?
Otherwise just do noice thin coats o' primer until it'd ready for paint. No need to get it all done in one go.

>>53073071
I'll probably just do it in a few gos. The base is gonna be a nightmare and a half to manage, though, I have to mill out a recessed base and plasticard the bottom. Can't use SW's recesses because they're too shallow, so it looks like I'm doing it by hand...

File: 1493908221539[1].jpg (72KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

72KB, 640x480px

Fuck I love this conversion. I'm working on my own Trencher-to-Guard atm and this is giving me quite the "inspiration" boner.

>>53073097
Good luck anon.
Does the Razorwing balance on it's stand n' base or does it want to fall over constantly? Time's like this I'm glad the only flier I have is a Stormraven (which balances on it's stand quite well). My friend's Harpy is uh... less aerially acrobatic - a fact he makes quite know during the course of games, either by word or example.

>>53073180
I haven't stuck it on its stand, but its weight distribution doesn't make it seem like it would fall over all that much. Then again, I'm still used to the nightmare that was having Tau drones on urban maps against me. They can't stand, period.

That said, who knows what replacing the base will do to its stability?

>>53073180
>Trencher
What, like a Cygnaran Trencher?

File: sniper recon team painted-800x800.jpg (69KB, 800x800px) Image search: [Google]

69KB, 800x800px

>>53067912
I'm thinking about using these guys and a few marine bits to proxy a Sternguard squad. How does that sound? Color scheme is dark blue with gunmetal highlights (though I may want to tone it down to grey for these models).

Also, is there anywhere you can get muzzled werewolf heads?

>>53073315
>Also, is there anywhere you can get muzzled werewolf heads
your best bet is sculpting a muzzle onto a werewolf head.
You might be able to find a few muzzled dogs if you look, I can't really think of any right now though.

File: NolzursMarvelousMiniaturesWizards.jpg (39KB, 906x745px) Image search: [Google]

39KB, 906x745px

Has anyone worked with the new Wizkids/NECA D&D and PF minis? Saw some at my FLGS and picked up pic related for the transparent bits. Cheaper than Bones, looks a tad bit more detailed and consistently produced, better than their old blind boxers, and even comes pre-primed with vallejo (which isn't much help since there's still mold lines to fix)

Also, how to tint these transparent bits? The sample painted pictures show them as colored but translucent, and I'd hate to go and learn now there's no options besides plain clear and priming and full painting.

Hey /wip/, I need a little advice. See, over the winter I got some minis on the cheap, and since I live in a frozen hellscape called New England, I took what I thought was the easy way out for priming and used gesso. Admittedly it was some nice Golden brand black gesso, but gesso nonetheless.

Thing is, that was a couple of months ago, and I'd been procrastinating on painting until a couple of days ago. It seems that the gesso is actually an incredibly shitty primer for miniatures, despite what some people on the internet say, and I tried stripping them to start again, this time with actual primer. There are definitely some small areas that my brushes can't reach to clean off, so I was wondering if there was anything out there I could use to dissolve the gesso without also melting the various plastic minis I have.

>>53073440
>and I'd hate to go and learn now there's no options besides plain clear and priming and full painting.
There are transparent miniatures for water or fire elementals from other ranges. On occasion I have seen these painted to great effect with washes and careful highlights.
The mini I'm thinking off was a water elemental that had been tinted blue all over but washed a dark blue in the recesses and had a very light drybrush of white on the edges where foaming spray was sculpted.
Come to think of it it was probably a Dreadball miniature.

Depending on how well the resin takes to painting you may have to hit it with a matte varnish first. You can always get the shine back with another coat of gloss though.

I'm a new player to war games in general so can someone explain to me how to highlight black?

>>53073592
Base paint quite dark grey, wash black for recesses, highlight slightly less dark grey.

File: thumbnail_20170505_134948.jpg (298KB, 1001x1212px) Image search: [Google]

298KB, 1001x1212px

Posted him a few days ago, mostly done now

>>53073623
If I was to use Vallejo paints, which would be the best colors?,Thanks for the help.

>>53073257
>What, like a Cygnaran Trencher?
Imperial Trencher from Warzone: Mutant Chronicles. The base model in pic related was one. Damn good models for the price, but man oh man they're made of some stiff plastic. Hard the work with.

>>53072895
you don't like the color combo? it's darker then in the pic but my phone sucks all colors out of it when there's so much white (the flesh in the gashes in the catsuit is actual fleshcolor irl)

also what's wrong with yellow? it worked out fine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVr6T1VPK58

File: 1420772315679.webm (3MB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 640x480px

>>53067912
Can you use 'Ardcoat to coat crystals on your base or does it get sticky over time?

>>53073915
GW's 'Ardcoat is a gloss varnish.
If it gets sticky over time there is something seriously wrong with it.

>>53072947
I think a brighter green in the center of the glowing areas would make it look better. other than that I like it.

>>53074153
GOBLIN GREEN IZ BEST

File: IMG_1301.jpg (717KB, 2055x1974px) Image search: [Google]

717KB, 2055x1974px

Almost done with my Oblivion Knight-Centura.

I'm very pleased with the bronze

>>53074209
Does she have two swords ?
Also, I would try to go for something more luminious with the plasma, it would fit better than flat green with the overall scheme.

starting my skitarii army with the metalica color scheme, but i cant for my life find where to get the transfer sheets fitting to the scheme. I know for a fact these exist, but GW has pulled them out of the market, and ebay sells only the regular ones now coming in the boxes. Anyone here know a place where to get them?

>>53074273
One is the Paragon Blade, and the other is the Custodes Misercordia.

And hmm I'll look into that for the Plasma.

File: TransferSheetAdMechMetalica.jpg (67KB, 600x620px) Image search: [Google]

67KB, 600x620px

>>53074293
forgot to post the image

>>53074293
>>53074313
forgeworld is the only other place GW sells transfer sheets.
I don't think these were meant to be a regular item.

If you really need them you could look into printing your own or have some made, if you need white prints.
Or try ebay and hope for the best.

>>53074189
Zat mean youz likes it?

>>53074359
thanks, googled how to print out transfer sheets and it only came up with t-shirt printing sites. Maybe ill just fuck it and freehand the decals, and git gud while im at it.

>>53074476
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0uvpCaRbbU

>>53074476
>googled how to print out transfer sheets
Bolter and chainssword and Bells of lost souls have good tutorials on this.

Freehanding is not a bad option either.

>>53069587
Have always liked red GK's.

...Did you paint these dudes back in like 2010 or am I thinking of someone else?

>>53069865
Do two nuln oil washes instead of one or one black and one agrax and get mud on that bitch.

>>53073640
Looks good my dude. Only thing is the bottom trim on the cape. Looks like it's a continuation of the lava base and/ or accidentally on fire. Maybe if you could make it more stylized.

Accidentally bought ten 25mm bases without realizing 32mm was the standard for infantry. Anything creative I can do with them? I play orks in 40k and AOS

>>53074808
buy historicals cause they are way cheaper than fantasy miniatures, plopp them onto the 25mm rounds and field them as free people or chaos marauders or whatever else these units are called now.

>>53074808
Objective markers.

Also personally i base boyz on 25, nobs on 32 and characters on 40.

>>53074808
give 10 to 12 snotlings each their own base, use three trolls from your aos army and you have yourself a blood bowl team. idk if they still work with the new edition but the rules for sntoling teams are on the internet

File: tzaangors group 01.jpg (601KB, 1564x1173px) Image search: [Google]

601KB, 1564x1173px

Slowly finishing my two groups of 10 tzzangors. Most of them sill need their weapon blades finished and picking out details (horns, gems) but it's other than that, it's how they're going to look.

>>53074586
They were originally silver with red hands and feet. I painted them around 2014 so no.

>>53071676
Good lord I can't unsee it.

>>53072321
My hope is that we get an even bigger ship at some point. Like a proper flying fortress, somethibg that can bebised as a mobile base, almost the start of a colony/city, a skyfort.

>>53074808
Yeah I was gping to recommend pjtting boys on it, very simply.
>>53074857
Isn't boys on 25 the standard? Have I been doing it wrong?

>>53072321
Because the crew is visible and actually part of the model, it means it's roughly scaled with the models. SM vehicles would be absurdly massive if they were to scale as well.

File: 2017-05-05 06.00.39.jpg (448KB, 1534x1506px) Image search: [Google]

448KB, 1534x1506px

Added some duckboards and water to my dude.

>>53075570
>The interned brother Knucien successfully assaulted the Nurgle stronghold entirely fortified with feces.
>Upon his return he was praised, but we still can't get rid of the smell.

>>53075570
Fantastic work.
What do you use gor water my dude? I want my guys to wade through dark waters and don't want to fuck it up.

>>53074941
Holy fuck it's like a Brazilian parade. Very nice.

File: still compensating.jpg (267KB, 850x2076px) Image search: [Google]

267KB, 850x2076px

Progress on the sniper team, the spotter is far from done, still needs a lot of highlights details and weathering

>>53075799
Can't say I really like that rifle but everything else is bloody great.

>>53075850
eeh, i kinda wanted to get an "antimaterial" rifle feeling, and the stubby, bent barrel of the cadian sniper rifle was terrible for that, wish i had the space marine scout rifles.

>>53075980
The transuranic arquebus form the skitarii would have been perfect.

File: 100pcs-Disposable-Eyelash-Brush-Mascara-Wands-Applicator-Free-Shippig.jpg (27KB, 400x400px) Image search: [Google]

27KB, 400x400px

>>53073500
>There are definitely some small areas that my brushes can't reach to clean off

Have you considered using different brushes?

>>53074941
Yes! Multiple colors, thats far more tzneetchy than everyone being blue. Looks great anon! (and also time consuming!)

>>53071172
Ave Mortikah my brethen.

>>53072947
Paint job looks good but I really love the cloud/mist effect on the base!

>>53075799
Im certain that DKK codex doesnt have snipers in it, are you going to play with IG codex then, or is this just for fun? Looks good, the rifle itself made me think of a flamer at first.

File: panzerIII.jpg (163KB, 903x487px) Image search: [Google]

163KB, 903x487px

DAK panzer III

File: beep-boop.jpg (211KB, 567x850px) Image search: [Google]

211KB, 567x850px

Update on that Tau suit-thingy gift. Just finished the OSL on the gun. Just needs to be sealed and based.

I'm thinking maybe some wet snow over a frozen river to match the fresh-off-the-factory-floor look.

File: 1481217131005.jpg (27KB, 400x400px) Image search: [Google]

27KB, 400x400px

>>53075799
>purity seals on a tau weapon
aside from a commisar or inquisitor BLAMING you, it looks fantastic

>>53075799
for snipers they have such a huge silhouette, snipers want to keep their profile as small as possible.

File: koolknight.gif (148KB, 533x400px) Image search: [Google]

148KB, 533x400px

>>53073180
I'm the Trencher-to-Guard anon who made that. It's my favorite conversion so far, so I'm really glad it's an inspiration to you!
Good luck hacking up these guys!

File: blood_angels_champion_zuriel_WIP01.jpg (99KB, 600x817px) Image search: [Google]

99KB, 600x817px

Finally wrapping up my Blood Angels company champion.

Unlike codex chapters, Blood Angels *must* include a company champion in a command squad, and I just never had one; they weren't necessary in Third Edition, and I haven't taken a command squad since.

Wouldn't it be funny if they became an optional waste of points in 8th?

almost done with a flyer base, lamp needs a yellow glaze for light effect still. I'm not sure if I should apply a wash on the sand.

File: 2017-05-05 17.42.49.jpg (1MB, 1373x1030px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 1373x1030px

>>53078734

>>53070491
fucking awesome dude

>>53075522
>Isn't boys on 25 the standard?
It is.
Technically nobs too, but that looks stupid.

>>53077354
Looks neat. Drill those barrels though! It's also a common thing with a lot of plasma gun and similar osl, but why does only a bit of the coil glow? Why does the glow not extend down the full length of it?

File: IMG_8384.jpg (630KB, 1258x1473px) Image search: [Google]

630KB, 1258x1473px

Thinking about what patterns to put on my Kastellan robots to differentiate them, rather than just flat red and silver. Any further ideas?

>>53079407

Hazard Stripes, Checkerboard, or plain old Racing Stripes in a contrast color could be cool. Also the tan on that collar looks a lil messy still. Nice job painting up that headswap though.

File: theotseal.jpg (175KB, 641x323px) Image search: [Google]

175KB, 641x323px

Nother day, nother guardsman in progress. Felt inspired and made a little shield shaped purity seal for him.

I've just spontanously layered my razorback with three layers of mud made of curry powder mixed with three different washes.
It won't rot, will it?

>>53071042
Nice, though it looks like you'll have to clean up the prototypes a bit before final casting.

>>53079744

I don't imagine it would be an issue in the short to medium term as long as the model doesn't get wet.

Not sure if it will hold its color though over time.

Either way make sure to seal the model thoroughly when your done and I think you'll be ok, though possibly odd smelling.

>>53079744

y u do that? you wanna spicy transport?

anyone ever use Ryza Rust on anything?

>>53079950
It actually does look pretty nice

>>53080074
Yeah, it works pretty well for its intended purpose. It can be easy to go overboard with it, though.

>>53080143
Ya I see that, I got these sort of scrapyard bases for my ork bikes and I did lead belcher, agrax earthshade, then typhus corrosion, and I figure once i get Ryza ill drybrush it on all over so the metal looks hella rusty. Maybe oxide too but I don't have that either.

>>53080202
I would do either or, or only use the oxide on non-iron metal that doesnt rust, like brass, gold, and copper.

Be sure to get most of the ryza rust off of your brush before you start though, of you'll get globs of neon orange instead of nice looking rust.

>>53080248
Cool, thanks.

File: robots.jpg (128KB, 1024x380px) Image search: [Google]

128KB, 1024x380px

>>53079407
pinstripes?

>>53075582
My whole army dreams of bathing in tomato juice.
>>53075584
Secret weapon miniatures' realistic water effect, my man.

File: 1493905540681.jpg (118KB, 500x500px) Image search: [Google]

118KB, 500x500px

>>53079258
>Looks neat. Drill those barrels though! It's also a common thing with a lot of plasma gun and similar osl, but why does only a bit of the coil glow? Why does the glow not extend down the full length of it?

Not really sure. I always imagined that waves of brighter intensity traveled along the length of the coil and that is just a frozen moment in that cycle. I also don't know if I'd feel comfortable drilling out the barrels, I'll leave that to the model owner to do. Don't want to F-up something I can't afford.

>>53077129
The idea is to play them as a lot of roles (hence why they have 25mm bases)

mostly a sniper for armageddon, vindicare count as sniper for normal ig or lascannon count as

>>53079407
Cog patterns, my Cog-Brother!

File: MOLDIV.jpg (588KB, 1024x2048px) Image search: [Google]

588KB, 1024x2048px

Making a herald. The blight king box is awesome but my daemons gotta be naked. Mostly done bar a few touch ups... And I need to do some searching for double chin reference pictures, he's looking far too chiseled.

>>53080655
Fair enough.

Fellow hobbyist's I purchased an Airbrush. Is there a handy Youtube channel you think is best to give a mortal assistance in using it that doesn't involve spending much money.

File: 414qwVBsDmL._SL500_AC_SS350_.jpg (14KB, 350x350px) Image search: [Google]

14KB, 350x350px

What's the best way to thin down this matt varnish?
I don't have any spray cans left and I need to seal my model today.

>>53080935
Try water, or an acrylic medium

File: 1487789370015.png (142KB, 292x257px) Image search: [Google]

142KB, 292x257px

>>53073915
Thank you for giving me this wonderful webm.

File: 1493416763927.gif (796KB, 500x281px) Image search: [Google]

796KB, 500x281px

>>53080904
If you can stand him, Next Level Painting has some of the better airbrush secrets.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLeWGzJbHzI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUwlPztdYmo

I find I have to watch his videos in tiny chunk though, so much bro-bro-bro going on.

>>53080959
>water
Sure, but how much of it?

>>53081011
You're gonna have to test it out a bit. I'd say add as much as you can and still have it stick to the model.

>>53080999

Thanks for the suggestion. Yeah, some things can get a bit obnoxious, especially with youtubers.

>(What's that anime?)

File: 1493980167207.jpg (567KB, 1534x1506px) Image search: [Google]

567KB, 1534x1506px

>53075570
So I thought I'd try to give you a more detailed critique on your weathering, I hope you don't take it too bad, but I think there are some areas that you could improve on. The stuff I have in red seemed too heavy on the brown paint - on the legs I think the effect suffers from being too close to the color of your base. It's not clear whether it's mud or chipped paint, but doesn't look quite like either. On the foot, mud wouldn't be on the top edges and not in the recesses. If it meant to be battle damage, it's a bit flat - lightly sponging gunmetal as a highlight on the very top edges would make it look more 3-d. For the heavy brown areas on the bottom of the shins- if it's mud, is it wetter or dryer? Is it concentrated more heavily toward the bottom? Think about where the model is supposed to be when and add some depth to the dried mud. I would try playing with splattering paint from a brush rather than sponging the upper levels of the shins, like where I've circled in green, this would give a new shape to the paint spots that's distinct from sponging and can look more convincing for mud.

On the hip plate, that big spot of brown makes me wonder. When I weather I like to think about what kind of story I'm trying to tell, about where the model has been and what happened to make the marks on it. Is that spot gradual wear and tear? An impact from a weapon? A result of neglected damage spreading into a flaky, rusty patch? This is where reference photos can be handy. The hip plate is not in a spot where it's going to see a lot of wear from normal movement or get generally bashed around and scuffed, so I'd say that for that sort of effect it would be too large area-wise. If it was a weapon impact, I would expect to see a more defined shape - a shell crater or gouge from a melee weapon. The shape is about right for a patch of flaky paint being attacked by rust, but then I would expect to see more color in it, probably a little smattering of brighter orange.

>>53075570
>>53081337
The green is where I thought you could go a little heavier, or change the shape of the chips. Hard edges tend to get chipped first. The leading edge of the powerfist, given its job is rudely inserting itself into tanks or whatever, is going to be taking a lot of hits, and so probably would be a lot less pristine. On the upper edge of the torso it seems like you went heavier because it was more accessible, but I would think about why that part of the dread is getting scuffed - short doorways maybe. I'm not saying to not put wear up there, but the way it is even all along the top edge shows some kind of constant wear is happening, which would be odd considering the placement. A strong yellow highlight broken up by a few larger, more purposeful pieces of damage would be more dramatic, whether at eye or table level. With the armpit I'm guessing it looks cleaner because it's harder to reach, but with the rest of the model dirty one clean patch is a little funny, and cheating by using scuzz and grime to give you some additional shading lets you some time.

For the helmet, my same question applies - what happened to it? It is muddy, or has it take some damage? For a focal point like heads are, I would consider doing some brushwork here - from a clean white paintjob as a base, touch a few spots with brown paint lightly. Go slowly - touch the sponge once, come away, and sit on your hands for a minute and think about what you've done. Coming in with the sponge multiple times quickly can end up smearing what you've already applied, which is sometimes what you want, but here I'd go for discrete chips. The paint won't take too long to dry, and being judicious in where you sponge is a good idea on a precision area like a head is. Concentrate on raised areas and spots where the dramatic effect is heightened - I like what you did on that little crest thing on the back of the helmet, but the stuff on the front is a little hazy and hard to read.

>>53081369
>>53075570
Fewer, stonger chips on the brow breaking up a strong line highlight would be a way to create some drama like I'm talking about , something to draw the eye and make the figure a little more animated. Couple that with a few stand alone chips on the front forehead representing small arms fire or something would get across the battle-scarred atmosphere I think you're trying for better. To do chips like that I start with a sponge where I've roughed up the dabbing edge some and have a little wetter paint load on/wiped off a little less of the excess. I do one very light dab, and stop. Ideally I end up with a bunch of small spots, which I then connect into larger chips using a fine brush and the same color paint that I used for the sponging. If you're feeling fancy then you can highlight and shade these like my 1000 hours diagram. Highlight the base colour on the bottom edge, and either mix in some black paint to your brown or use straight black to paint a shadow line on the top. This will make the chip look like it has depth but can be hard if you don't have the brush control to be very fine with your lines. Something to experiment with though. A mix of sponge, splatter, stippling and regular brushing is better than any one technique to make an effect look random and natural.

>>53075570
>>53081383

The blue circles are things I liked - The way the hard edges catch most of the wear, and how it's collected on areas that would be hard wearing. I imagine the dread shoulder barging things and generally taking a lot of hits up there. On his loinplate, I like how the damage there is directional. I looks like a purposeful scrape, rather than brown paint. The shape of the damage makes the illusion there - this would also be a good spot to add some black shade lines to make it stand out if you're feeling like going the extra mile.Thinking about directional damage like this will be helpful in weathering the powerfist, I think - there's going to be one main direction I can think of that the powerfist is going to get busted up. Anyways I hope this was helpful - I'm not trying to write all this to tear you down but to express some stuff I've found helpful in weathering, as well as using your example to tell some stuff to the wider /wip/ crowd. I think the most important thing to remember with weathering is to have a reason why you're doing weathering to any particular place - if you think about the narrative and 40k (or whatever) reality that your figure is living in, you can extrapolate logically what kind of weathering is going to happen, and this logic is where you give the viewer's eye something to latch on to trick themselves into seeing the figure as realistic, and existing in some particular time and place, rather than being a few inches of plastic with paint on. When you think about why the weathering is there and what exactly it is, then the how can follow - plus I think it's a more fun way to paint and get into the 40k background to make up little stories about your tiny men.

>>53081407
>>53075570
Outside of the conceptual level, if I can give you some more advice on the technical side, there's a few things I think might be helpful just judging from this one example you've posted. Go slow with the sponge - I know in the past I've gotten overeager and sponged on top of where I just sponged till I ended up with a patch of solid brown. Besides it being a shame to waste the paintjob you've done underneath by covering it with brown, solid paint patches tend to ruin the illusion that we as mini painters are after (I assume). It doesn't take that long for sponged paint to dry, and taking a bit more time to make sure you're putting it in the right place tends to pay off later when you have fewer mistakes to fix. Even on areas where you're trying to go for a caked-on, heavy look, like muddy feet, coming in multiple times can add more of a look of depth than one heavy sponge. Slight alterations in the brown you use can have a cumulatively great effect - say on this layer you add a little black, on this one a little light brown, white, etc. If you let each layer go on without mixing, you have depth for minimally more work than one thick layer. Sponge painting is so quick that I think it is a really rewarding time to go slow with it, and think about what each dab is going to do. You might also try playing with the amount of paint on the sponge and mixing colors. For an example, a very light stippling of black in a small, rough circle with a patch of darker brown in the center is a good way to do bullet holes on a flat surface.

File: IMG_20170505_1616029.jpg (104KB, 444x475px) Image search: [Google]

104KB, 444x475px

What should I do to spruce u these bases some?

They're my first one so I'm kinda at a loss as to what to do with them. It would help if iwas good at painting I could do some kinda Imperial city cobblestone or derelict ship bulkhead. I have trouble picturing Dangles in a sun-baked valley but premade cracked mud paint is about my skill level.

>>53075570
>>53081418
On your rivets, I think you might have come in too heavy with the weathering. Keep in thin and do two coats. With your brush loaded with wash, touch it to the bottom of the rivet and hold it there while the capillary action draws it out. The way the paint drips down the bottom mimics how grime actually collects around rivets, and if you do this method with two thin washes, you'll leave the top part of the rivet the right color - I see one on the powerfist and between the dreads eyes that are jut straight up brown, and the grime around the rivets on the right shoulder look kinda thick to me. It's easier to let the paint walk around the rivet than to try and draw the bristles around the rivet cleanly - human wrists aren't particularly good at that motion and I try to avoid it when I paint when possible. If you practice the rivet washing method, eventually it'll be quicker.

I don't actually know you or how you can paint, so I'm sorry if this comes across as condescending. With my total information being this one picture, this would be my advice on improving your work without doing anything that would take too much longer. I hope that I don't come off as too authoritative, but also hope that you might at least try some of what I'm saying to see if it works for you and your painting. I also tried to make some content that the other people on /wip/ might find useful. If you got some questions I'd love to talk more but for now I think I'll leave it off here.

>>53081039
Love Lab. :3

>>53081531
Thank you dude.


>Anyone knows how to DIY paint thinners and make airbrush medium?

>>53081426
I had to zoom all the way in before I even saw that there were cracks on the bases.
The thing about crackle medium is, the thicker you apply it the bigger the cracks will be. If you paint it on like normal paint you'll hardly be able to see the effect. You really need to glob in on there thick to get a good result.

That aside if you don't like the cracked mud effect, sand is an easy alternative.
Cover the base with pva, but down some small stones (i use torn of pieces of cork for this) and then cover the rest of the base in sand. Once the pva is dry brush the excess sand off and do another pva coat with 1:1 thinned pva and water. That way the sand will stay on there no matter how hard you play.

Then you can just paint it, drybrush it and move on to flock, static grass or tufts.
These days you can get some pretty nice stuff in that area.

the reason I'm writing this all out is because with this method you can cover just about any landscape you can imagine. Deserts, wastelands, rocky mountainsides, forests, lush meadows and jungle.
The only thing you need to vary is the colors and the flocking.
If you throw in some additional details like pieces of scrap or rubble you even get to junkyard, battlefield debris and urban basing.

It' pretty easy to do really.

The other alternative to all of that is to just buy the bases you like.
If you prefer a Space Hulk environment you could just buy those premade (personal favorites are Dragonforge Design in murrica and Microart Studio in the EU).

Cobble stones are not really difficult either just take a bit of time. You can buy bases for that too btw.
Just take a bit of sculpting putty spread it over the base and score lines in it for the stones.

There are other options for doing this as well. Greenstuff world offers textured rollers for both techy and cobblestone themes. So you can check that out too.

TL;DR: don't settle for something you don't even like when it comes to basing, cause it's easy to get what you want

File: 20170505_223851-1.jpg (1MB, 1993x709px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 1993x709px

Priming done. Now I need to aibrush a basecoat on aaaaall these white bastards before summer. I'll probably do that after my exams. That's a fuckload of marines, I'll have to paint 1 every 3 days to see the end before September.

File: 20170504_234954-2.jpg (2MB, 2007x1836px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2007x1836px

Size comparison dudr from last thread. Made a lot of progress on the krusha and warboss. What you guys think so far?

>>53082637
I think you might have more success doing work in bulk. If it's just one colour or shade to work with. That's how I work through my stuff.

Hey all, I think my purity seal is doing that shit where is dries cloudy...

Did I just put on too much at once, or is it the spray?

>>53081635

I have found a recipe I am going to use to create a paint/ flow medium.

>33% Isopropyl 99.9%
>66% De-ionised/ distilled water.
>A couple drops of washing up detergent.

>>53082806
Sounds like a mix of both

>>53082796
Oh yeah definitely. After the grey basecoat is done I'll only jave to do black for weapons and some pads, white for faceplates and some pads, metals, and then the odd details here and there. Should be all right.

File: johnny_and_kringle_vs_panzees02.jpg (223KB, 1280x953px) Image search: [Google]

223KB, 1280x953px

Totally unrelated to anything ... Beckenham-anon, how hard is it for you to get Pocky in your neck of the woods?

>>53082793
Not bad at all! Photo might be a wee bit too bright but I like it.
Not sure about the blue near the eyes though. Why blue?

File: image.jpg (918KB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

918KB, 3264x2448px

So the wife decided to join in. Hers is on the right, mine on the left. First batch of minis ever painted, got a box of like 90 of these guys for 10 bucks at an auction. So we're using them to learn painting.

Gonna need a detail brush soon. Only got a base and layer brush.

>>53082903

Yeah the phone flash really doesn't help things.
To the naked eye the base yellow was hard to make out as his eyes are so small, the blue really helps draw attention to his eyes. The blue isn't as bright as that pic suggests, it's the flash.

>>53083026
Then don't use the flash silly. It's one of the basics of model photography.
Use diffuse light.

>>53082953
Thats nice work

>>53082866
What I'm reading online seems to say it's the spray... damn.


Can anyone suggest a good brush on satin varnish?

File: 20170505_172817.jpg (3MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 5312x2988px

>>53067912

Could use a bit of advice lads.

Been starting my krieg army and settled on a color scheme pretty similar to steel legion. It'll be a fair mix of tanks and footsloggin'.

Issue I'm having right now is that painting so many guardsmen is taking for fucking ever. I've been using Vallejo paints since I got back into the hobby but I think if I don't prime these guys in something already tan/khaki/beige to save time I'm going to burn out quick .

Attached is a picture of one of my Kriegers. Do you think that Zandri dust will be closeish enough to that base color?

inb4 thin your pants.

>>53083449

Woof sorry for filesize and shitty picture, not used to taking pics of this stuff.

>>53082793
Looks pretty solid Anon. His spikes do look a little flat though, perhaps give thm a wash in holy Agrax and then brighten the tips a bit? His teeth would probably look better a different colour from his spikes too, this could help make his face more of a focal point as well. Personally I go Rakarth Flesh, Agrax, and then move progressively further up the tooth to give an indication of sharpness- Rakarth, Pallid Wych Flesh.

File: SPCamKhkSpL.png (34KB, 240x240px) Image search: [Google]

34KB, 240x240px

>>53083449

There's a pretty useful conversion chart on DakkaDakka for the various minis paint brands. It's not always a 100% match but it's pretty close:
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

Also if you live in the US there's camo spray paints that work great for minis (I use the Olive Drab for my Cadians). Good coverage, flat finish, but you may have to do some trial and error to match it up with the right Vallejo color if somebody hasn't already.

>>53083449

You can edit photos real easy on mac if you use it if not run it through photoshop elements. You are using a DSLR you have no excuses!

>>53082953
Don't bother with GW brand brushes if that's what you were thinking. Acceptable quality but premium price

File: 1368373268099.png (116KB, 336x406px) Image search: [Google]

116KB, 336x406px

>Popped into Warhammer World
>Check out marine boxes they have there for sale, going to be starting Imperial Fists army
>Those heresy marks of armour
>All in full squads
>All for only slightly higher prices than normal tac squads
>Those drum mag heavy bolters

Does anyone know what the sprues are like on these? Would I be able to assemble them just as bitz? I'd like to mix them throughout my army rather than having one unit of heresy marines.

Need recommendations on new brushes. I want something that will hold a nice sharp point.

File: Duncan.png (70KB, 232x350px) Image search: [Google]

70KB, 232x350px

>>53085226
Seconding this.

>>53085210
they're divided up into the standard bits

>>53085287
Cheers

>>53085226

http://www.rosemaryandco.com/watercolour-brushes/pure-kolinsky-sable/pure-kolinsky-pointed

The 3 is the one I use the most by far.

>>53085184
Would Michaels or some store like that work? Are normal brushes labeled the same way? I could always go and check, but an answer would save me a trip.

>like I said, very new

>>53085184
They aren't premium priced except for the ultra fine tips in their artificer range.

>>53085526

Just go to a paint shop and buy what you need desu.

>>53082793
>>53083026
I like him but I think you need to use the blue somewhere else to tie it in to the model. Maybe on the wings and softer flesh somewhere.

File: 1474132440961.jpg (269KB, 1263x1010px) Image search: [Google]

269KB, 1263x1010px

>want to buy some more models
>know damn well I won't finish painting them, like most of the models I currently own
>I'll probably do it anyway

>>53085982
I know that feel bro

>>53085982
Finish painting your models faggot.

>>53085982
you can only paint what you love anon. You do love your models don't you?

>>53086120
No. I bought a £50 box of Orcs and I don't know why

>>53086134
You got a spending addiction then buddy

File: 20170505_201849.jpg (341KB, 960x720px) Image search: [Google]

341KB, 960x720px

>>53073640
I recommend doing a few little licks of silicone flames on your lava. It's a pretty easy effect and it will make your environment look very dynamic.

This video is really long and unedited, but it's where I learned the technique from.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZtc2Cv0Sos

The short and sweet version is get some liquid silicone adhesive from the hardware store, mix some with yellow ink and sculpt up some flames. Then mix up some silicone with yellow and red ink to make a deep orange, and go in for the flame tips. I suppose you could even mix up some red and black ink if you wanted some truly extreme contrast, but I find that red and yellow inks work just fine.

You can do flame swords this way too, and enhance flame sculpts that models might already have.

>>53085982
>Go to eBay
>"Buy professionally painted army"

>>53085982
break the cycle

File: IMG_1773.jpg (1017KB, 2592x1936px) Image search: [Google]

1017KB, 2592x1936px

How do i add chipping and weathering to black models? This is my land raider and i really want to add some character to it.

File: 1477154506774.gif (5MB, 216x384px) Image search: [Google]

5MB, 216x384px

>>53081450
Not the guy who painted that Dread but I think if more people went to the depths of analysis and constructive criticism you did here I would actually feel compelled to put my work up. Good read, and I'll definitely be sure to use it in practice myself.

>>53086396
Sponge on some Gorthor brown or another dark brown (maybe a metallic if you're brave) onto the hard edges you want to chip up..

File: camo tank painting guid IG.pdf (294KB, 1x1px) Image search: [Google]

294KB, 1x1px

>>53086396
I'd just use a rust brown color to add chips.
Weathering depends on what the weather in your chosen warzone is like.

There was another black gobbo spread on weathering with a few examples like this one for camo scheme. Couldn't find it atm though.

Before having employment, never had enough money to afford the bits and kits for my grand projects.

After having employment, I don't have the time an energy after work to work on said projects.

Fuck.

File: image.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x2448px

First Marine I've painted in probably 8 years

File: 55ac9c75f9bf960297f1811f83f3b80a[1].jpg (219KB, 584x901px) Image search: [Google]

219KB, 584x901px

>>53082637
>spess shurk army
>practically every armor mark BUT Mark V
I want to blame you here, but I really can't. Mark V is fucking expensive as shit because it's Forgeworld only (outside of metal OOPshit).
I just hope GW throws you a bone here and releases a Horus Heresy box set of 30 Mark 5 dudes next. Hell, if a box like that came out even I'd get a small Space Shark army going.

>>53087234
Looks nice man!

What are alternatives to Citadel brushes?

>>53087519
Your fingers.

>>53087519
brushes that aren't made by GW
are you asking for brands? not sure what you are after.

>>53087519
try reading the thread. I think this is the 3rd time the question's been asked in like an hour.

>>53087388
Fuck space sharks, I'd buy it just because Mark V is the best worst armor around.

>>53085354
What do the sizes mean?

File: 1489857407758.jpg (51KB, 557x605px) Image search: [Google]

51KB, 557x605px

>>53081337
>>53081369
>>53081383
>>53081407
>>53081418
>>53081450
Dude. Thank you so much for taking the time to give me this critique. I'm really glad I checked back here. Posting this now before I finish reading because I'd hate for the thread to end without thanking you. Im brand new to weathering and will take all the advice I can get.

File: IMG_20170505_185120692.jpg (4MB, 5344x3006px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 5344x3006px

So for a recent birthday my little brother got me a bunch of sprues for Mk3 Tactical Marines I think there's 12 in total. And it'd be a goddamn shame if I just let his heart felt gift collect dust so I'm gonna paint them.

Never painted minis before and have basically no tools for painting minis but I've lurked /tg/ long enough to know the basic essentials.

Question I have now is what should I do next to get the ball rolling?

File: rosecosizes.jpg (34KB, 837x196px) Image search: [Google]

34KB, 837x196px

>>53087650

File: mk3_marine_sprues.jpg (365KB, 1600x972px) Image search: [Google]

365KB, 1600x972px

>>53085210
>Does anyone know what the sprues are like on these?

Yes. They are the Mk IV squads from Betrayal at Calth and the Mk III squads from Burning of Prospero, but repackaged ans sold as individual squads of ten models each.

>Would I be able to assemble them just as bitz? I'd like to mix them throughout my army rather than having one unit of heresy marines.

Sure! What - other than GW's prices - is stopping you?

The Burning of Prospero lot (pictured) is 10 Space Marines clad in Mk III Iron Armour with the following bits:

10 Phobos-pattern Bolt guns
1 Bolt pistol
1 Plasma pistol
1 Power sword
1 Chainsword
10 Holstered Chainswords
1 Power Fist
1 Lightning Claw
1 Thunder Hammer
1 Plasma Gun
1 Meltagun
1 Heavy Bolter

The Betrayal at Calth lot is 10 Space Marines clad in Mk IV Imperial Maximus Armour with the following bits:

10 Bolt guns
1 Combiweapon (choice of melta/flamer/plasma with bolter)
1 Bolt pistol
1 Plasma pistol
1 Power sword
1 Chainsword
2 Power fists, with the option to make one fist into a single lightning claw
1 Flamer
1 Plasma Gun
1 Meltagun
1 Missile Launcher
1 Heavy Bolter
10 combat knives

>>53087691
prime the models obviously. why would you say you've lurked and know the basic essentials, only to ask what step 1 is? lol

>>53087734
*Basic essentials for tools

>>53085210
If you are in Warhammer World I assume you are a brit, but regardless I assume the situation is gonna be the same there.

GW sells a squad of HH marines for 40€. You can buy them off of ebay for 20€ a pop.

>>53071249
dumbest shit i've read all day

File: IMG_20170506_121933.jpg (2MB, 4160x3120px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4160x3120px

Still got to finish Celestine, flags and the guns on a Russ, but nearly there.

>>53075549
what? all space marine vehicles are "roughly scaled with the models" and it's "because the crew is visible and actually part of the model" what you said is absolutely pointless

File: IMG_8484.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x2448px

Working on my Imperial Fists first company, not doing very well at the crux terminatus details, need to do some more work.

Tau player

Someone bitch about Tau so I paint my shit instead of leaving it primed

>>53081337
>>53081369
>>53081383
>>53081407
>>53081418
>>53081450
shut the fuck up

File: clean_hobby_desk.jpg (416KB, 1280x875px) Image search: [Google]

416KB, 1280x875px

>>53087691
>So for a recent birthday my little brother got me a bunch of sprues for Mk3 Tactical Marines I think there's 12 in total.

Unless there's something not in your picture, there are ten. Those are the Mk III Iron Armour marines from Burning of Prospero.

>And it'd be a goddamn shame if I just let his heart felt gift collect dust so I'm gonna paint them.

"To fail in service to the Emperor is the greatest of sins." - Leman Russ

>Never painted minis before and have basically no tools for painting minis but I've lurked /tg/ long enough to know the basic essentials.
>Question I have now is what should I do next to get the ball rolling?

You will at least need a hobby knife. A nice pair of sprue cutters (mine are just shitty hardware store clippers) will save you time and reduce the amount of wear on your blades when separating bitz from sprues. All da uvva tools in this picture are optional at the beginning; use the back of your hobby knife's blade to scrape away mold lines.

Get a handful of half-way decent brushes at Michaels. For 28mm squadboyz, you won't need anything bigger than a '2'.

Get a can of spray primer. If you can get Rustoleum 2X primer, you'll do well.

You'll need glue. Revell makes an excellent plastic cement with an applicator tip that is perfect for these ladz, and since they are all plastic, you really don't *need* superglue - though I find the cyanoacrylate gel comes in handy a lot.

You'll need paint. Think about what colour you want yer ladz to be and pick some nice acrylic model paints from companies like Reaper, Citadel, or Vallejo. With Space Marines, a black colour and a gunmetal colour are virtual necessities in addition to anything else you think you will need.

Build yer ladz into subassemblies. For these models , you could get away with building the legs, torsos, and arms. Just don't glue the weapons, backpacks, and shoulder pauldrons on until later, as they will interfere with your ability to paint detail.

>>53087674
Guy who actually posted the pic is gracious for the advice, acts cool about getting a ton of feedback.
>>53087962
Random autist spergs out.

wew

File: primer_test_subjects.jpg (318KB, 1280x876px) Image search: [Google]

318KB, 1280x876px

>>53087985
>cont'd

Decide how you want to base your models; thinking ahead at this point - just a little bit - can avoid challenges later if you realize that you should have glued your sand/cork/slate to the base before you started painting, or you're just going to flock them later or use some kind of textured paint.

Prime your models. Be conscious of the temperature, wind, and humidity so your models don't come out all fuzzy and chalky. For little bitz like pauldrons and shootas, pressing them into a loop of packing tape stuck to the inside of a cardboard box can prevent them from blowing away when they get blasted by the propellant.

When you finally do paint, heed the words of Our Blessed Saint: thin ya paints, and get a nice fine tip on ya brush. Don't try to slather too much paint on at once, or you'll obscure detail. You'd do better to lay down your colours in 2-3 thin coats instead of globbing it all on in one go.

If you can manage it, try not to handle the models as you paint them. You'll rub off paint, and deposit oils from you skin on the surfaces you're trying to bring to life. You can try holding the model by the base, or attach it somehow (lots of us use poster putty for this) to a worthless object that you can handle instead like an old wine cork or medicine bottle.

Basing and applying waterslide transfers (if that's yer fing) are the last part, after you're done painting. If you plan on later playing games with them, it also wouldn't hurt to coat them with matte varnish to keep the paint from rubbing off.

>>53087985
>he actually bought a citadel mold line remove

File: magnus amusement.jpg (161KB, 623x414px) Image search: [Google]

161KB, 623x414px

>>53087985
Yes you're correct there are indeed 10. Don't know how I managed to fucking type 12.

Cheers for the advice, I'll go to a few hardware/hobby shops in my area tomorrow and see if i can pick up a few of these.

Pretty excited to finally start doing model painting, been putting it off for ages.

>>53088148
>>53088115
And second cheers for the painting tips

>>53086242
Thanks anon that's a cool effect I'll have a look.

>>53087918
You can't be bothered to do it for yourself.
Now you are asking others to cheer you along while you are trying to work up the motivation?

Do you even realize how fucking lazy that is?

Seriously, it makes me angry to think about it.
It's your fucking hobby. If you don't wanna do it move along and do something else.

>always afraid of doing water transfers because it looked hard
>said fuck it and did it on a few models
>it was the easiest fucking part

>>53069587
Only thing I don't like is them swords, snazz em up.

>>53080904
>Next Level Painting
>Buy Painted
>Schnauzer Face Minis
>Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic (although he tends to focus on paint brushing)

There's also
>Orc Painter Nerd
>Lester Bursley Miniatures
But I find them more hit and miss.

File: johnny_vs_harridan.jpg (318KB, 1207x781px) Image search: [Google]

318KB, 1207x781px

>>53087918
>Someone bitch about Tau so I paint my shit instead of leaving it primed

If another fucking Tau player shows up to challenge my fairly well-balanced army with two Tau Supremacy Suits, I'm just going to pack up and move on.

>>53088370
>Tau Supremacy Suits
>250 lbs. for a model
FUCK

THAT

Currently my beefiest suit is a Broadside. So I'm not petitioning for the cancerlympics. At least not yet

>>53088347
I can not stand next level painting. All his videos are titled "UNLOCKING (something) HACKS!" And then its just him live streaming his work and without any real tips.

>>53088263
I was actually getting stuff together when you posted this.

You should probably calm down and not take what people say on an incognito laotian knitting BBS so seriously

How do I highlight blacks? I'm painting a chaplain.

>>53088540
Slightly less black?

>>53088452
>ask to be bitched at
>be defensive when bitched at
?

>>53088629
Man the guy sounded like he was losin' it, though

I just wanted to be called a faggot

File: vanq.jpg (794KB, 1500x1500px) Image search: [Google]

794KB, 1500x1500px

>>53087674
Np. Felt like it was only fair to show some of my work to back up the talk so now that I'm home here's something of mine. It's epic scale (mounted on a 32mm base for scale) which is something still new to me but I'm having fun figuring out how to adapt to a smaller canvas.

File: Alarielle.jpg (129KB, 718x1000px) Image search: [Google]

129KB, 718x1000px

Another day slightly more progress

>>53087691
find this in a store in your country
https://www.mightyape.com.au/product/army-painter-tap-hobby-set/24534973

on top of that you'll need a can of primer and you may also be interested in the army painter basing set.

>>53088882
>I said stay off the grass!

File: DSCN0373.jpg (2MB, 3648x2736px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3648x2736px

>>53072213
>>53072355

i told u i was hardcore


(now to get that green stuff off the wrist without fucking up the pillow)

File: 18318314_1381805945247464_917812632_o.jpg (243KB, 2048x1536px) Image search: [Google]

243KB, 2048x1536px

where do i get non chaos looking chain axes for my space fish army

File: chain_axe_close-800x800.jpg (70KB, 800x800px) Image search: [Google]

70KB, 800x800px

>>53089095
Anvil Industries has some.

>>53089107
thanks!

>>53087985
Not trying to troll but genuinely curious. What do you find the mold line for than a hobby knife? Does it really change that much?

Anyone have an easy trick to getting 25mm plasticard circles for some deep bases?

Alternately, anyone know of a reliable hole punch I could use to punch out 1-inch circles and trim them?

>>53089161
Not that guy, but you're more likely to cut into or otherwise damage your model with the knife.
The remover will only smooth out the flash, the knife is fine just requires more finesse on your behalf.

File: beekee_collection_large.jpg (781KB, 2982x1085px) Image search: [Google]

781KB, 2982x1085px

>>53089161
>Not trying to troll but genuinely curious.

Good on ya. Yer one in a million, m8!

>What do you find the mold line for than a hobby knife? Does it really change that much?

That much? No, not really, but it has a few selling points, mostly having to do with safety if you're butterfingered like I am.

First, unlike a hobby knife, it's not sharp. You're never going to slip and cut yourself, or impale your foot/lose a testicle when you drop it towards the floor/in your lap.

Second, the blade is thick and sturdy. The metal actually runs the entire length of the tool and is a single, solid piece. This differs from a typical hobby knife, where the blade is a thin piece of steel set into a separate handle. You'll never have to worry about the blade breaking off and flying into your eye, and it's more than a match for any mold line you're going to encounter at 28mm scale - even on metal models. I mentioned metal models specifically because I have a *lot* of them. This won't apply to a many other /WIP/ folks unless they've been in the hobby a long time, but it definitely applies to me.

Third, the unusual curvature of the head of the tool makes it well-suited to remove mold lines in odd places, as opposed to a hobby knife, which is just one straight piece of steel.

The downside? You'll hear it from the shitposters here in /WIP/ - it's the price. Citadel is unsurprisingly miserly as ever, and a fair argument could be made that a box of band-aids and a pair of safety glasses are much cheaper and work almost as well in tandem with the hobby knives we all already have.

File: runes.png (782KB, 845x533px) Image search: [Google]

782KB, 845x533px

Do these runes look shitty? Bad camera I know but only have phone.

>>53089377
>look shitty
They look fantastic, dude. Clean as fuck.

>>53089377

They are absolutely tasty! I can't imagine having to do that much freehand work on every single model!

>>53089377
they look great

>>53089377
look good to me
but the prominent one on the right calf looks like pi to me

>>53089401
>>53089407
>>53089423
wow, wasn't sure if they look decent let alone great. I guess I'll stick with doing it this way then. thanks.

File: IMG_0755.jpg (427KB, 1632x1224px) Image search: [Google]

427KB, 1632x1224px

First squad of Iron Warriors complete, now to figure out how to apply the same painting recipe to vehicles...

File: 20170505_232345.jpg (4MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 5312x2988px

Just finished putting the final touches on my Custodes. I can't for the life of me decide how to base them. I use grassland for my rank-and-file marines, lava for my vet marines, and tundra for my Deathwatch, so I'm looking for what to do. I want to litter the ground at their feet with dismembered traitors, but I'm not sure what terrain to use.

File: 0501172238_HDR.jpg (595KB, 1152x996px) Image search: [Google]

595KB, 1152x996px

Anyone have an idea why this is happening to my paints? Bottom right was thinned with water, bottom left wasn't thinned at all, top right was thinned with Vallejo metal medium. All three dried out fast. Sponge was full of water, with some excess, so there's no reason that the water should have drawn through. Paper is Reynolds parchment, no wax, same as everyone else I know uses.

Any ideas?

>>53081337
The huge patches on the hip and right foot were 100% goofs of over sponging that I tried to fake into being more rust patch shaped to compensate. Its heavy on the feet because I failed to get into the recesses to simulate wet mud (what's a good way of getting that in the future? Getting some wet texture paint maybe? )

Thanks for the fix ideas, absolutely gonna try those.
>>53081369
Yes. Yes. Yes. Love the variety of techniques and I see exactly what you mean for the helmet and the top edge.
>>53081407
Definitely need to add to the powerfist arm.
>>53081418
Thank you again for spending all that effort on great advice. If anyone is more competent than me I'd love to make this a guide and put it in our OP. I love the recommendations you made for how to fix my current muck ups, makes me regret diving in and making a mess much less since I can fix it. Love weathering but it's so easy to go overboard. Thanks again!
>>53088827
What a cute little tank!

>>53087914

I like the poses anon, keep it up.

>>53089440
numerology can be a part of sorcery ;)

What varnishes do you use to protect your models? My testors dull coat still seems to scuff sometimes. Dunno if Im just not putting enough on or not.

File: WIN_20170505_22_29_37_Pro.jpg (195KB, 750x1080px) Image search: [Google]

195KB, 750x1080px

Painted up a very 90's ultramarine I made out of some spare parts, really wish I had an old school banner pole to put on him

File: ^5B781781A544891AC4E66DEB2DFD2D764459583C8885370562^pimgpsh_fullsize_distr.jpg (43KB, 800x450px) Image search: [Google]

43KB, 800x450px

>>53067912
Having fun teaching myself how to base

Side note, but I found this spess muhreen at a garage sale for 50 cents and quickly grew fond of him. His name is Jonsey. How should I color him?

>>53090402
You seem to be fond of purple, so I say pre-heresy Emperor's Children.

>>53090422
Jesus fuck these guys look slick. It also helps that I live in Louisiana so it's got that mardi gras/ state football team color scheme going

And here's a shot in the dark. I want a single Custode but I'm not looking to buy an entire pack of them. Are there reliable places that sell single figures?

>>53089569
mud, maybe spray paint some sprue bits and sprinkle them on as crumbled road/bricks

>>53090443
They only come in packs of 5.
Your best bet would be to ask trading sites if someone has 1 they dont need

>>53090507
>>53090443
scratch that
found this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Warhammer-40000-40k-Talons-of-the-Emperor-Adeptus-Custodes-x1-bits-clipped-E3-/132161837018?hash=item1ec57597da:g:ct0AAOSwc49Y6wLb

>>53090520
Sweet. Hopefully It'll still be up on eBay when I get paid

>>53090061
gloss + matte for gaming models

I've got some feathery wings that I want to paint very colorfully/flashy. Is a full rainbow way overkill? What are some washing/highlighting techniques I could use to give them a nice "glowing" effect? They're going to be a magnetized removable piece.

File: The Wisdom Spreads.jpg (442KB, 1280x960px) Image search: [Google]

442KB, 1280x960px

These little Warzone lads are pretty fun to play around with. Does the guy on the far right look enough like a Commissar or should I replace his pistol with a Bolt Pistol to drive it home?

>inb4 moldlines
I'm not even CLOSE to being done. Still just playing around with the possibilities.

File: HHEC.jpg (65KB, 318x531px) Image search: [Google]

65KB, 318x531px

>>53067912
I've never painted Emperor's Children. Is the helmet and backpack white or bright silver?

>>53090969
Imma say Silver

I looked at some painted and it sure as hell wasn't white.

File: ss (2017-05-06 at 12.16.58).png (103KB, 209x228px) Image search: [Google]

103KB, 209x228px

>>53090934
that leg shape bothers me

>>53089678
what exactly are you asking here? you say it dried out, but it looks fine to me and looks just the same as my paint on wet palettes when i use them?

>>53088263
kill yourself

>>53091024
Would look nice with the gold too. Thanks anon

>>53091123
Would make sense for a legion that fell to Slaanesh to be decked out in silver and gold.

How do people figure out decent colour schemes without making eye sores?
Like I'm painting some Crisis with mainly Mephiston and wanna know how people decide what colours would go well with

>>53088629
should have established a safe word

>>53091316
by studying color theory and testing things out, which isn't something you will become a pro at in one evening. the safe thing to do is figure out how color wheel works and compare it to existing art and understanding this existing art to make something similar, but if you want to get more in depth and make interesting aesthetics, ya gotta know art

>>53091316
well there's no real definite way to go about it. It depends on the shade of the main colour too, is it a warmer colour, or a cooler colour? I'm gonna explain this a bit autisticly, but it should make sense.

Basically the armor plates should comprise of about 70%-80% of the main colour, then the other 30%-20% left for secondary colour/s

To choose a secondary colour the best way to go about it is to google image search a complimentary colour wheel and select a colour on the other side of the panel.

from experience, an example of some colours that go well as a secondary to red are
>white
>grey
>black

cool fact about red: it is the most visible colour and the reason they use it for stop signs/traffic signs and such. It's also the reason why the sun setting gives off a red-ish look. red light travels the furthest.

File: 1485503244640.jpg (22KB, 351x351px) Image search: [Google]

22KB, 351x351px

I've been working on my first ever model, a normal sized plastic one. I feel like I've already made a lot of fuck-ups and it's not really salvagable, at least at my level of skill.

If I strip it with methylated spirits will I be fine? I just really want to start it again.

>>53090969
I think it's meant to be unpainted, so it's the original pure armor. I think it fits with their theme of aiming to be perfect.

>Still can't decide on a color-scheme I like for my Nurgle army
The skin parts are easy, I already have those planned out. Problem is that I start settling for one "warband idea" and give one or two minis a trial-paint, to see if I like it. then I redo, attempt something else, and it just repeats itself.
How do I leave this funk?

>>53091531

The problem is over thinking/ overdoing it. You just got to relax walk away and carry on. It's a part of being a hobbyist.

>>53088396
Yeah, his clickbait titling and attitude are pretty obnoxious but I don't really mind him. The livestreams are nice just to see the full process but his shorter tutorials with commentary are great and super helpful.

>>53091398
>>53091503

Thanks
Yeah I was thinking a grey of sorts for minor panels, tried gold and ehhhh, not too fond of it

>>53091615

Tbh, after watching 30 mins of content I hate the guy. Not just him but his network too along with SpikeyBits, fucker was too lazy to mix green stuff, so chewed it like gum then used it. All the comments are vetted. Fucking weird freaks, the lot of 'em!

>>53091531
>I've been working on my first ever model
Finish it to the best of your ability and then keep it around as a totem for the future to remind yourself how far you've come. It can be a great motivator to see how much you've improved over time.

...or you can just strip it. Methylated spirits will work fine.

>>53091531
Keep it and cherish it so you can compare it to your later works. I still have a single plague marine I painted with fucking arts and crafts paints I found at college.

File: ffffffff.jpg (54KB, 480x451px) Image search: [Google]

54KB, 480x451px

>>53091664
>fucker was too lazy to mix green stuff, so chewed it like gum then used it.

what on earth

What's everyone's opinion on MDF bases? I was looking to buy GW bases, but found 100x MDF bases for the around the price of 10x GW bases.

Pros? Cons?

>>53091664
Rob Baer from Spikey Bits definitely has a creepy vibe. There's a persistent rumour circling around /tg/ that he's a convicted sex offender. It sounds like the sort of bullshit that just gets repeated with no proof but it wouldn't shock me if it was true.

Kenny doesn't bother me but I can understand why some people don't like him.

I'm considering painting something big and out of my usual zone of stuff I paint. Anyone out there have any projects they considered pretty dang fun? I usually paint Nurgle stuff so I'm curious what would be a good thing to do for that like saying fuck it a lord of change or if I should continue the good fetid path and maybe paint a maggoth lord or glottkin.

>>53091709
The main reason I never went for them is that they have a straight edge.
I want all my minis to have the same style of base, aside from that I don't think there is any reason not use them.

>>53091689
>>53091674

I would want to keep it for those reasons but also I want to use it in public and basically I'd be too embarrassed to do that in it's state.