War-ter edition
>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here
>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart
>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA
>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw
>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm
>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM
>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU
>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/
>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg
>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...
>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf
>This planet is ours, witch!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44
Previous Thread >>52472701
So what's the best way to fix up bubble hell resin models?
Liquid green stuff is pretty awful
Gotta break up the grey somehow. One more to go
WIP for my biker chaplain conversion. I think I am at the point where I need to use GS to fill in the obvious gaps. I need to connect the left arm to the PF, and the right elbow could probably use some also.
Right arm, and shoulder are magnetized for posing. I haven't drilled the bolters, or taken off all the mold lines yet.
I haven't GS'd things before so this will be my first model. My plan is to make an "elbow" connecting the left arm and power fist, as well as making the right "elbow" more solid.
Any thoughts so far?
>>52495885
Another angle, showing the missing "elbow".
Any one know of a good forum with high quality painters? I'm looking to become competitive and start ending Crystal brushes.
>>52495893
All the pieces
>>52495894
>ending
Kek
Dunno if there's any maybe around town? you'll have better luck at conventions
>>52495906
Wow iPhone is a shit
I meant to say Dunno if there's any, looked around to find any in you're town or any pros in your area
>>52495901
>>52495893
>>52495885
Crozius looks terrible.
Make it way smaller and shorter so he can wield it with one hand.
Otherwise it looks good but the back wing is too much unless it's ravenwing
>>52495930
I'm not able to travel sadly. That's why I'm looking for online resources. Most I'm finding are tabletop quality plebs who don't even know how to layer. Drybrush + ink = 10 stars!
>>52496041
I am probably going to do something with the back wing, I just don't know what yet I haven't spend much time on it.
The crozius is from the B@C box, you think I should shorten it? I could take 1/3 or 1/2 off of it, but I am not confident in my sculpting skills to make the snipped end look very good.
>>52496041
I could do something like this, remove the section in black?
>>52496049
>That's why I'm looking for online resources.
Find Natalya.
>>52495833
For those still looking for a real Johnny of their own, this item closes in about ten hours. I'd buy it myself if I didn't already have all the models in this lot.
>>52496189
This has already gone up 6 bucks. I presume someone here is trying their hand at winning this? I was gonna buy this for a friend, but I'm not gonna crank the price up for someone else from /wip/.
almost ready to paint. Got to fill in the gaps in the claw connection and do a little putty work but it's getting there.
I need more free time. Took me the last 5 months to paint these.
Re posting >>52483302
Hey guys I finished this character a while ago and while I'm generally happy with the paintjob as it's at the level I'm currently capable of painting at I do feel that due to the large segments of flat white armour it comes off as a little bland. Just to be clear, because I know the paintjob doesn't really show it, the armour isn't just flat white, it's been layered with different light greys up from bleach bone with a white highlight. But anyway I was hoping you guys might be able to point me to some simple tricks for weathering and battle damage.
The other thing I wanted an opinion on is how to get a more faded looking yellow on cloth for a Mordheim war-band I'm working on. I was thinking a layer of screaming skull on a white base coat and then building the yellow up with thin layers of the Yriel Yellow wash. No idea if this would work though so any input would be great.
>>52496811
This is great, 3d printed?
>>52496905
Looking pretty good anon, I can't wait to see how the next 987 turn out.
>>52496697
Dont let others cuck you, if you want, buy it mate
>>52496905
Those are beautiful anon, I especially like your blues.
>Took me the last 5 months to paint these.
Ahahaha, looks like we're in the same boat then. I also tend to paint my guys really slowly (took me almost a month to finish a unit of plague marines), but mostly due to the lack of free time (can't really paint every day).
Catching up on my backlog of nasty boys
I'll add in a better lit picture with some of my kit bashed baby boys
>>52496952I already have two, I don't need another one. I'll let another anon have one this time around.
>>52496984
>>52496969
Same for me. I can't paint every day
1. Because I don't feel like it every day, and if I don't want to paint, I'll either do a shit rushed job or a shit job full stop.
2. I have other shit to do.
>>52495852
Standard green stuff? Some other kind of putty?
>>52496932
Resin
>>52496969
Thanks
Yeah I get to paint at most 2-3 evenings a week.
>>52497137
Same here. But mostly due to being a lazy fuck. Almost finished my 2nd squad of plague marines today (just need to do the freehand on the champion's shield).
God, it's been a long 2 weeks.
Funny story, the skeletor guy was actually a result of me not being able to do some basic math.
>didn't count his bits right
>realises he's out of bits
>only a single shoulder pad left, and some plastic marine parts
Yeah, let's just slap a skull on the guy and paint him, I'm sure no one'll notice.
>>52497234
Particularly blessed with a delicious flesh rotting boon from father Nurgle, I see. How lucky!
My Death Gaurd are on hold currently- I'm waiting for the new models to come out and see what happens with them.
I've got my Possessed to build and kitbash with Plaguebearer parts, so that'll be fun and my termie squad which is waiting to be primed.
>>52497234
>>52497299
He doesn't even resemble him
>>52497234
Which colors did you use to get that green?
Working on my custom squad of dudes for Shadow War: Armageddon. They're Skitarii, but I'm adding knives and pouches and stuff, magnetizing all the guns and heads and giving the Alpha a Guard flamer backpack because I had one spare and it looks different.
>>52497377
Inspired by this guy's scheme:
https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/222864.page
1. Vallejo Green Grey
2. Wash with a 50/50 mix of Agrax Earthshade and Seraphin Sepia
3. Highlight wih HEAVILY watered down Green Grey
4. Edge highlights with Green Grey + Ushabti Bone (or some other bone white)
I also apply some Sepia here and there, to make it more yellowish in places.
>>52496905
TTS+1/10
>>52496905
These are a really good tabletop standard bro, kudos.
>>52496905
cot dam that is sex
>>52497962
Got a lot of guff for using balsa in this, last thread. I say it looks fine, it's not like I'm Michelangelo or anything
Any suggestions for specific brushes that work best for edge highlighting with the side of the brush?
>>52498769
It looks like someone glued wood to a fucking model, now stop being a faggot and trying to self justify your mistakes. You fucked up, it looks bad, man the fuck up and fix it or stop acting like a woman
>>52496905
The TS symbol on the Rhino hatch - is that freehand or a decal/ transfer?
>>52498769
Clean your place
>>52498769
>Got a lot of guff for using balsa in this, last thread. I say it looks fine, it's not like I'm Michelangelo or anything
I don't get it. It's just a glued, unprimed model, what's wrong with it? I mean, I can see a few gaps here and there, but it's not that bad.
>>52498886
Little late to fix it, unless you have suggestions.
I can tell it's wood, sure. Pretty sure I should leave it that way so I can trigger your autistic snowflake ass with the ~200 shekels worth of kits that had to die to bring this into being, too.
U mad?
>>52498988
100% freehand
If you zoom in a bit on this 'wip' pic you can still see parts of the circles I made with a pair of compasses.
>>52499167
Are you Wraithknight retard? You seem like him. I really hope you are as well.
>>52499167
>reposts image just to tell people how mad you are for getting your feefees hurst
>"U mad?"
Really makes me think
>>52499013
Thanks for the laugh anon.
>>52499212
I was under the impression that this was an in progress thread, and was wondering if anyone shared my thinking, which is 'eh, it ain't that bad', after seeing paint on it.
And no, I've never owned a wraithknight. Too Gundam for me.
>want to make an plasticard easter egg for mini-competition at my LGS
>end up with something like this after whole day
>>52499392
wtf is this
>>52499392
>>52499406
ork drop pod
also that is lovely anon, but needs more what are they called? the nubbles you made with greenstuffsorry english isnt my first language
I have 2 reference pictures.
1. Does anyone have a picture of a crater caused by an explosion in a winter environment? (Something like, finland during the winter war)
2. Whats the most natural right handed way to hold a gun with 1 hand? (The other hand is holding a flag)
Thank you.
>>52499441
rivets i guess. I prepared tons of them, but I'm already tired after spending whole day building this.
Need to put some more of platings here and there, but it's mostly done.
>>52499406
supossed to be an orky easter egg, but ended up as ork drop pod, or some idol of gork (or mork). Gonna look fun on shelf, and maybe as an objective marker at LGS.
>>52499585
Just Google "snow explosion crater" and there are loads of results.
>>52497234
Could you please post all your stuff, it's really nice to see and I didn't save it last time.
>>52500990
Sure, I'll take some pics tomorrow and dump them all in the next thread (or in this one, if it's still there).
I don't have that much painted stuff anyway:
Painted:
- 2 units of 7 plague marines
- 2 rhinos
- 3 nurgle terminators
- nurgle dreadnought
Unpainted:
- 5 nurgle bikers
- nurgle lord on a bike
- 5 havocs
- 5 obliterators
- 10 nurgle cultists
So yeah, still a long way to go, but I'll upload what I have.
As a sidenote, I'm also painting a dwarf warband for mordheim in my free time. I try to paint them to a higher standard than my CSM, since I want the to have that little extra bit of character.
Here's a guy I painted a couple weeks ago.
I'll try to post some wips regularly.
>>52495875
Solid work anon. Not much else to say really.
>>52499368
It's a bit noticeable. You might be able to fill it on with greenstuff or some sort of resin? The balsa wood will take the paint differently and look weird once everything is finished
>>52498769
>Got a lot of guff for using balsa in this
>using balsa in this
Can someone explain to me what's happened? I'm genuinely curious.
What's wrong with that model? It just looks like it's been poorly assembled and then drybrushed in places.
Post conversions.
Here's a sort of 'heavy metal priest' I did with a pile of Guard bits.
>>52501417
The basla isn't cut straight and you can see the wood grain on it.
>>52501417
I think he's referring to using bits of balsa wood to fit in the thunderfire cannon he's got on there.
Frankly if you scrape a bit of greenstuff onto the surface it's impossible to tell under the paint.
Or just use plasticard. But it looks okay to me.
>>52501443
>>52501457
Ooooh, ok, thanks, I see now. I assumed that was just some warped resin, and got confused when he mentioned balsa.
But yeah, scraping some liquid greenstuff, or hell, even a few layers of paint should fix that.
>>52496905
Any tips on how you painted the gold? I've been struggling with painting gold lately.
>>52501704
Have you tried the gold paint?
>>52501704
>>52501788
>not mixing real gold flakes with alcohol
>not painting your miniatures with actual gold
And there I thought you had class anon.
>>52501841
>Not making your miniature out of gold and painting it gold
Get on my level
>>52501788
Man, that was one of my very early wips, but yeah, the recipe is correct.
>>52501471
Fucking solid
Not my miniatures but I need some advice from painters with a good understanding of colour.
Which type of Tyranid scheme would compliment a Black Legion army? Say if I had the two in a cabinet together as my two armies?
>>52501841
>Not electroplating your minis
PLEBS ALL OF YOU
Getting ready to paint my first minis, a squad of Fire Warriors, and want to make sure I have all the paints I need-
I've primed them black, and am planning to use Abaddon Black for the soft armor, Castellan Green for the plates, Sotek Green for the sept highlights, Nuln Oil for shade, Evil Sunz for the lenses on the visor, with Dawnstone for various straps and belts and such. Does that sound like a solid color scheme? Should I use a different shade, and/or do I need some layers for my castellan green body armor?
>>52502041
>Which type of Tyranid scheme would compliment a Black Legion army? Say if I had the two in a cabinet together as my two armies?
Black Legion is black and gold mainly.
I've seen armies that used orange as accent and this one you posted has so much red at first I thought they were Word Bearers.
So it depends on the accents you set, cause black and gold is pretty neutral.
Black goes with everything and gold is either gonna harmonize or contrast, but you can't 'clash' with just one color, i.e. the gold.
Long-winded of saying hard to tell without knowing how you painted your army, if you did something specific to your force with it..
>>52502289
>Should I use a different shade, and/or do I need some layers for my castellan green body armor?
Sounds solid.
As a rule of thumb for army painting I like to have at least three shades for each color.
Could be three colors layered on top, or a base color washed and then re highlighted with the base again.
I mention this because your list sounds a bit short, i.e. like you are just painting base colors.
For the black parts I'd consider using a grey like eshin grey for example to set some highlights here and there.
Food for though.
Paint a test mini and see how you like the scheme that's always the best way to get a feel for it.
Where is yellow anon with his imperial fists helm id like an update on the tutorial you got going on
>>52502289
>>52502420
>As a rule of thumb for army painting I like to have at least three shades for each color.
Sorry for leaving the crucial part out here.
Three colors are my magic number, because I can use a base, shade and highlight then.
>>52502445
you mean me >>52501471 ?
>>52502420
Thanks for the advice! I was looking at guides and discussion, and realized my current plan was really lacking in the layering department. So maybe one lighter layer for the black (like the eshin grey you mentioned), and a lighter one for the castellan? What green layer would you recommend? Elysian or Loren Forest, maybe?
>>52502457
>>52502500
I'm super new to the whole Citadel paints color scheme, so I'm trying to figure out what colors I should try to fit each of those roles, generally going for the forest-green armor look.
>>52502471
Are you the guy who got sick of everyone being retards who can't into yellow?
>>52502363
Well they're black legion scheme (easiest way to explain). So silver and whites in there too but on better painted models I've tried not to highlight the gold with silver as that's good to do when silver is already used for metals right? I was thinking early GW Kraken might go well with the greys and red, but I'd like to do a scheme that really pops as I've really regretted going with black and gold for my first project due to the difficulty and dullness.
>>52502568
nope, must be someone else then
>>52502500
>lighter one for the castellan? What green layer would you recommend? Elysian or Loren Forest, maybe?
sound both like solid choices.
GW did a paint chart with some suggestions on recipes a while back.
This is the best pic I could find.
These are just suggestions, and should limit you in any way in the choices you make but as a quick reference it might come in handy.
I don't have many of the new paints yet, so you should probably trust the chart more than me on this one.
>>52502695
Oooh, exactly what I needed! Many thanks!
Are 2mm magnets good enough for magnetizing infantry like Skitarii, assuming N52? Doing a custom Skitarii team for Newcromunda and I want EVERYTHING swappable down to the belt pouches.
Also, subassemblies. Legs+base on their own, torso/robe as one bit and the arms separate good enough? Previously I was a scrub and painted them all together, although as they were my 1st models I don't think it made things much worse.
>>52502695
Not the guy you're talking to, but also a newbie. This could be translated to pretty much anything, right?
Saved, thanks anon
>>52502445
Which imperial fists anon? I only know of the guy who uses washes for everything.
>>52502626
>I was thinking early GW Kraken might go well with the greys and red, but I'd like to do a scheme that really pops as I've really regretted going with black and gold for my first project due to the difficulty and dullness.
Kraken is a solid choice.
The bone white should be a nice contrast.
Leviathan would be a similar contrast.
Strictly speaking you could do some even more extreme things with them too.
I find that pictures of tropical fish or poison frogs are a great source of inspiration for these kind of color schemes.
Imagine an orange army with neon blue patterns on their carapace for example.
>>52502896
Crusty fingers with the flash gitz yellow fists helmets
>>52502923
Thanks for that. I've never been a fan of neon colours as they tend to look either over contrasted or done by airbrush, but the image of tropical fish works well when imagining Tyranids.
>>52503366
>done by an airbrush
I love this meme how you poorfags have to insult airbrush work because you can't afford one
inb4 'i like using a brush' 'it looks better' 'airbrushing is cheating' 'people over do airbrushing'
Not arguments.
Novice here...what's the best method for applying water decals? When I apply mine the clear outer edge stays "fogged up" making it look like a shitty sticker. Tutorials I've watched leave the edge completely translucent so it actually looks painted on
>>52503391
Sorry for triggering you, I meant to say overdone by airbrush. As in the cringy lighting shade effects we always see.
i've gotten real good at painting space wolves! any flaws?
>>52503989
I'm assuming the one on the left is a newer one that's supposed to show how you've gotten better, but we can barely see anything from this angle
>>52496905
Someone just copy pastes IRL what he sees on youtube tutorials.
>>52502827
I guess they should work, but I never magnetized anything so far, so take my advice with a grain of salt
>>52503989
still needs some improvement
>>52496905
These look familiar, are you in the MD area bro?
>>52504257
Not even the guy, but if this isn't extremely weak bait, then I'm looking forward to seeing your completely original models. Painted in never before seen schemes and with new techniques.
>>52504807
How is it bait, didnt call it bad or anything. No matter how well a mini might look or turn out, it does not have as much meaning if you copy someone elses work step by step. I do not paint any GW stuff so yes all my stuff is original and not copied from anyone else. Techniques I use arnt anything special because every technique there is to painting has already been done.
>>52502066
I just tried this and the electrified alligator clips melted my models. THANKS A LOT FAGGOT
>>52496905
>r8 my first paintjob guys, pls no bully i know it needs a lot of improvement
>it took me forever to finish these guys
>mfw the image is always better than my own handful of models that took years to paint to a shitty standard
>>52496060
Yes and make the head smaller and more practical as a maul
>>52504998
>make something practial
have you any idea of Warhammer 40K asthetics
Dicking around with this one after a hiatus
>>52504998
You know that's an unmodified crozius from BaC right
>>52505020
Nice clawed fiend !
So a couple of things:
1) I remember this one guy whom used the Ogroid Thuamaturge with an Aztec styled bird head headswap for a counts as Daemon Prince. Anyone know what the head came from?
2) I need the How to Cast PDF because I need multiples of the Seraphim Geminae backpacks.
>You'll never do something this cool in your entire hobbyist life
https://youtu.be/9NlKPA7HtT4
Why even live ?
Finished my first blightking, thoughts?
>>52505089
>I need the How to Cast PDF
This one?
>>52505157
Building the electromagnet base is the easy part. The paintjob is the real difficult step. It feels like he ruined an awesome paintjob with a dumb gimmick. It doesn't even work for long periods of time and he doesn't keep it on for display, only to film, because it isn't sustainable permanently or for long periods of time.
No, I can't make anything as nice as that, before the autistic white knights start sperging. But if I could paint that well, I'd just make a normal diorama. LEDs are a bit more practical and a cool enough gimmick without trying to make a magnetic levitation display.
>>52505329
Lets see ur models fgt oo rekt
>>52505188
Nice paint job, base is a bit boring
>>52505188
I like the cartoony look of it. Would be neat to have an entire army painted in such a fashion.
>stegadon scale green
>clearly blue
What did GW mean by this?
>>52505670
Teal
>>52505726
That's far too blue to be teal. It's certainly not closer to green.
>>52505670
G-Dubs trolling colorblind people.
wip helbrute conversions.
>>52501471
Hot damn
How do I not ruin my brushes?
>>52506544
Don't apply more force than needed when painting. You only need to gently touch the brush to the surface, unless drybrushing.
Use a brush cleaner after every session. "The Masters" is a popular brand. You simply mix the brush into a material similar to gel deodorant, then swirl it in your hand, then rinse it off. It works wonders.
Try not to get paint into the base of the bristles, as it can dry and expand and ruin the brush.
Store your brushes upright in a cup.
I also use a microfiber cloth to dry off my brush. I feel like paper towels can deteriorate and get paper in your brushes and paint.
>>52506544
Don't let paint get up in the metal part. If you do get paint in there, don't let it sit there and immediately rinse the brush in your water while the paint is still wet and will wash out easily. Buy brush soap to revitalize and clean the bristles and keep the tips sharp.
>Want to make a T. Sons Forgefiend with Warsphinx head.
>Prices are rediculously expensive, but can afford.
Convince me not to buy a primed, assembled Warsphinx (at a significantly lower price) to break apart for this conversion
Excuse the spam, havent posted in a while. Recently finished a harpy and miasma cannon conversion. Would do a collage but I'm on my phone.
>>52495901
>>52495893
>>52495885
This lame-o again, I am in the middle of greenstuffing up the arms; does anyone have any suggestions about what to do with the tail "wing" on the ravenwing bike?
I could cut out all the feathers, or I could attempt to GS it into a banner of some sort, or I could cut it off completely.
>>52507877
>>52507934
Progress on the waistcape thing. Currently flat, but shaping up. Any anons better at fabric think they could critique?
once I get it cured, I'll be cutting up at the bottom to make the folds more pronounced at the underside rather than the flat piece with hills on it you see now.
>>52507952
>>52507985
>>52508007
Also going to post a finished version of my chaos lord next.
>>52508020
I'd like to use this base for The Visarch but I'm having some creative block as to what to do with it. Any recommendations?
>>52508032
Last one for now, working on a mawloc, trygon, and finishing the base on my hellbrute next. Then a tyrannofex, gaunts, and 28 gargoyles.
>>52507955
did you paint it with mustard?
>>52508204
Anon that is greenstuff. He is moulding it, not painting it.
Hello I am a armchair critic post your work so I can tear it down
>>52508241
this post meets tabletop standards
but just barely anon
>>52508261
Oh ya lets see your work
ERE WE GO
>>52507955
Looks okay desu. Be careful of fingerprints and try and smooth it out more, it looks like it would harden quite rough. The general shape looks good though.
Anyone here made their own artillery carriages and guns for a renegades and heretics army? I want to mount the earth shaker cannon on a defiler chassis so it looks more like a chaos construct than a stolen gun, but no a single damn bits vendor seems to have the gun in stock.
>>52496041
>>52496060
Crozius looks fine.
It's a big loud "look at me and how important I am" weapon.
Just clean the mold lines off of it.
>>52508436
Fuck. Now I remember.
Last night I dreamed I painted a Bob Guilleman for a friend I haven't seen in 10 years, whom used to collect ultra marines.
And for some reason in my dream, my mum put it in the oven because she thought it would help the paint harden, but instead it started to melt, fucking up some of the details.
So my friend and I drove to Nottingham to buy a new model, but they were out and then the dream got weird as I was hiding under the gaming tables for no reason.
>>52508436
Before I expanded the pic, I thought he was playing Twister.
Then I got this AWESOME idea for a diorama!
>>52496041
>Make it way smaller and shorter so he can wield it with one hand.
>>52504257
>>52504923
What?
Besides Duncan's Magnus tutorial I followed partway through and then abandoned because drybrushing is ass and his tutorial on how to paint the shoulder symbols all of this is 'me'. I'm sorry if you don't understand that, after chosing a colour scheme for an army, you are kind of required to see it through on all of the models.
But do go ahead and post some of your uh 'original' work.
>>52504782
Sorry no, Austria.
>>52503391
>doesnt like aibrush
>insulting
Wew lad, you do realise its ok for people not to like the same things as you.
>>52503391
They may not be able to articulate their opinion well, but if you were any good at airbrushing you'd know what they're referring to. It's when your fades aren't subtle enough, your contrast is too high, or you're just pre-shading sloppily.
A good airbrush job looks just like a hand-brushed Golden Daemon that took an entire year to paint, and will never receive "obvious airbrush" comments. Even if the keen-eyed observer knows it was airbrushed, there is no criticism to be made regarding the blending, fades, zenithal, or quality of the spraying. Shitty airbrush jobs make very obvious differences. It's like comparing a beautiful automobile or motorcycle airbrush artwork design to some faggot spraying graffiti on the side of a wall.
>>52510432
Mate, don't mind the guy. He sounds like a salty cunt because he doesn't get as many (you)s as you did on your awesome guys.
>>52505020
three nipples? fuck
>TFW when you wake up and want to paint but need to exercise too.
Exercise first or last?
>>52510603
If you do cardio, then exercise first but I found that lifting can really fuck up your fine motor control for an hour or two.
first time working with resin but does this shoulder pad look "clean" i soaked and scrubbed it but not sure if the grease people talk about its gone or the material its just odd looking
>>52510753
Are you using a face mask or should we get your life insurance to pay out now?
Anyone have experience with and recommendations for dremels or off-brand variants?
Tired of the cramps, callouses, scars and uneven results of doing bulk work with a craft knife and file.
Far as I can gather the golden rules are get it wired, get a flex shaft and mask+goggles.
>>52510841
Dremmels aren't for general purpose clean up, they're for heavy duty stuff.
>>52510841
Make sure you either get one with low RPM or an attachment that lowers it for you or else you'll be melting your models.
>>52510863
S'the main purpose for it, cut and filed the bed of a ork trukk down to serve as plating for my Russ conversion the old way, ruined my hand for the day, hell i'm still palming my coffee cup for the warming relief two days later.
>>52510823
that what i asked?
>>52510823
also i asked about washing not sanding
>>52510962
Resin dust is not much worse than regular environmental dust, the work conditions however are, often you'll be hunched over the model getting your air intake from the work area, it's not flour/coal/stone lung, but it sure ain't fresh maintain air either.
Anyways, clean with warm water and dishwashing liquid, alcohol on a q-tip if you wanna be extra sure.
>>52511010
ok will do. think i did an ok job cleaning them but when shinnied under a light i can see some imperfections . guess il just having to try clean them now they are fully built
>>52511035
>when shinnied under a light i can see some imperfections
That's resin for you, soft molds and a mixed casting medium will do that.
>>52510925
Why wouldn't you just cut plasticard to shape if it's that much work?
>>52510962
An irritant means cancer. You're clearly new to Resin, I was trying to help you.
>>52511085
Don't have any diamond plate plasticard.
And half the fun in ork work is in integrating various bits and pieces.
>>52501431
give him a mohawk
also paint it better
i like it though
>knocked over a pot of zandri dust
JUST
>>52511930
>paint chip jammed primer valve open
>Removing nozzle just made it spray vertical
At least i was wearing glasses
>>52511977
So you're saying you got a paint cumshot? I'll need pictures.
>>52512005
>TFW you shot yourself in the eye with paint this week.
>>52510273
who will play Twister then?
>>52512064
Probably a wulfen and khorne berzerker, they've the spazziest poses.
>>52508032
why is he so hairy
Not sure if I want to keep the skin this light green or if I want to darken it up with some washes. Think I might need to do a bit of glazing to even it out a bit.
Trying to figure out the colour composition at the moment
Hello, mates. Anyone recognize those shoulder pads and codpiece? Because I would like to convert my Kastelan look less dumb.
>>52512502
From its back
>>52512502
codpiece's from the tracked servitor dudes
shoulder plates are from the imperial knight's thighs
you'd probably want to cast the knight bits, otherwise that'd be an expensive conversion
>>52512502
>>52512517
Why would you use those horror machines?
>>52512502
>Because I would like to convert my Kastelan look less dumb.
Why don't you just buy a robot that looks less dumb, if you don't like the models?
There are more than enough models.
Can anyone identify what pieces are used in this mini? I'm pretty sure the torso is the Renegade Psyker from Forgeworld but I don't know what the head and arms are from.
I painted this with a single 10 year old fucked up brush and four half-dried paints , but do you think this scheme can work well?
I paint duncan-like with proper equipment, but I want to make sure the scheme works well before I buy anything.
I'm also unsure about the bolter casing. I thought about painting all of it black or silver or maybe silver with dark red casing.
Thoughts?
>>52512574
Greenstuff
Thoughts on the chapter badge?
I know its similar to the novamarines and metamarines, just in a different color.
The idea was to take advantage of all the molded bits that already feature the skull and the halo.
>>52512598
Reread my post -carefully- and try again.
>>52512608
Told you mate. Uses Greenstuff.
>>52512574
Magos Dominus head I believe.
>>52512624
The fucking grey mechanical arms which look exactly like resin and the grey head which looks like a resin metal thorax? Those are green stuff? Are you retarded?
>>52512642
Thank you.
>>52512574
arms, I don't know, but they could probably be substituted with various arms from Skitarii and even from the Chaos Space marine chirurgeon.
The head is from a forgeworld thing, and that's all I know of that.
As mentioned in an earlier post, bought a box of these. Might add some Noise marines and have them all dancing :P
>>52512591
>>52512605
Reminds me of this.
If you are gonna stick with your own scheme, I'd change the orange in the badge. That doesn't mesh well with the rest of the colors.
Red bolter casings with purple main color also seems like a poor choice.
Stick with something neutral like black or use something that's a contrast.
>>52512655
Yea, it's sculpted out of grey green stuff
>>52512831
Woah epic troll that was HILARIOUS dude! I completely forgot about how absolutely retarded you are since you've convinced me you were joking the whole time! Absolutely epic for the win my man!
>>52512859
Welcome
Just converted some more spawn. Still pretty new to conversions.
>>52501471
Fuckin ace dude. My only suggestion would be to perhaps use a slightly darker grey to highlight your black, as it looks a bit too stark.
>>52501471
Hey that's pretty much spot on dude. Maybe some more dark spots but otherwise all round pretty good.
Finally getting around to painting my metal sternguard. About to start highlighting. Was wondering how the plastic ones compare?
Anyone got some Pink Horror conversions? I wanna see if anything good can come out of this kit.
First time trying limiting my palette to 5-6 colors. How's this so far?
>>52512554
>Less dumb
>Posts Maxmini's "I need to take a dump REALLY bad" Robot.
>>52514275
very cheesecake but it's very nice
>>52514275
Skin is great. White cape is really flat. Hair is so-so.
>>52514418
I don't think he's started the cape yet.
I agree on the hair, though.
>>52514418
>>52514442
You can ignore the hair and the cape too, I haven't even started with those lol.
>>52514405
You just summed up KD.
>>52514479
cool beans, then.
What's the plan for the base? Some kind of blood lake?
>>52514499
Something along these lines, I have been experimenting a bit with colored water effects, the idea is making a blood pool filling up to the ground level.
>>52514542
Good luck. Finding the right amount of colour to mix in is always a bit of a pisser.
I'm not sure how much extra bits the KD kits come with, but some discarded lanterns or faces on the bed of the pool might be cool.
How do I paint power swords?
>>52514608
I don't think blood's suppossed to be transparent, so the bottom won't be visible. The look should be a quite opaque gory red glossy surface.
>>52514542
Speaking of blood bases, I did this with scarlet red, washed with purple, then coated with Tamiya clear red.
I dunno if you're wanting a glossy blood but Tamiya clear red is great for it.
>>52514479
I think a more apt sum of KD is cheesecake and body horror.
And also a complete lack of understanding of basic business practices.
>>52514758
We'll see how does it look with the water effects, if it looks bad I can always paint over it.
>>52514542
Blood is opaque, look at any blood bag
>>52514860
Yeah, exactly. It is also quite violet, not pure red.
Alright, so how do I got about getting the "painted to not look painted"? I just got back into the hobby after like 7yrs and I can't seem to do anything that doesn't make me want to throw it in simple green straight away.
Also, should I just chuck out my paints and start new? I have like a whole drawer of old citadel paints, but most of them have gone the way of gloopy and I either thin them waaaay too much of not enough.
So few questions?
>starter paint set or buy them as I need them from local GW?
>good paint brush sets?
>how long do you let a layer of paint sit before you paint the next part? I might be rushing...
>any basic guides I can read through?
>>52514389
>>52514389
>There are more than enough models.
Nice selective reading.
>>52514891
depends on how well oxigenated the blood is.
I'm no doctor, but I'd expect it's gonna look slightly different depending on if it comes from a vein or artery.
>>52496905
>Took me 5 months
But is it really that bad? I mean, with the result you have hear, solid paint job, solid conversions on a great looking force. Put those 5 months up in comparison to the next 20 years you can enjoy this force!
>>52512687
These are so fucking glorious.
>>52515373
That blood will be exposed to air straight up in a pool, so it'll be fully oxygenated anyway. It's why you don't bleed dark from veins. So compare to blood taken from arteries.
does tg like my tech priest dominus?
>>52515644
Very Halloween. I like how you made the hem of his robe reflect the terrain.
>>52515644
Clean orange with a subtle not over whelming glow effect you've caught my attention anon.
>all my wips, both painting and conversions, are now so unremarkable and mediocre that they not longer garner (You)s.
>>52516149
please repost, right now, also, please ask for feedback or comments in your post.
Finished four grot warbikes. Made from matchbox cars, gnoblar bodies, gretchin heads, dakkaguns from the warbike kit and other assorted random bits.
>>52516149
These threads have very little response to other people's work. If you're not glueing random Ork shit together or painting a space marine people just won't reply. I post my stuff here because why not? I am going to lurk to try and get people to learn to fucking paint any way.
>>52517055
I'll be adding a golf cart and a tuk-tuk to the mob as well once they come in.
Posting my looted tank.
>>52517118
>>52515644
Needs brighter gray and white colors on the cog pattern around the hood. It looks great, but meeds more contrast for the detail not to get lost
>>52517144
>>52517173
>>52512893
Looks more like possessed/mutants than spawn. Warp spawn are supposed to be a writhing mass of mutating forms, not a dude with a tentacle arm. Need a closeup to see how well the conversion was integrated though
>>52512605
Good, now paint it again for every marine and vehicle you have. If this thought doesn't instill you with terror, then great work. Otherwize, something simpler will have to do unless you want to print custom waterslide transfers.
>>52512473
I would say lighten it up to pale fleshtones with highlights leaving the greenish hue in the recessed area to make it look less halloween monster and more sickly cultist
someone asked for this recently I believe.
>>52517118
Where did the cannon barrel come from?
>>52517462
Forgeworld killbursta kit.
>>52510823
>don't use a mask for spraying or sanding
I have a death wish.
Any Brits recommend a good mask please.
As I understand it you should not be able to smell anything even in a confined area.
>>52517885
you should also shave your beard if you have one.
>>52517885
Any mask that blocks smells entirely is blocking air entirely.
Look into motorcross masks for desert use. Many of them are affordable while having filtering good enough to hit the top regulations.
>>52508037
Was about to varnish and remember that someone from a previous thread said to use a gloss on the cloak. Why would I do that?
>>52518073
>Why would I do that?
The only reason I could think of is that most of the gloss varnishes merchants shove in front of us (Citadel's 'Ardcoat, for example) are thicker than the matte kind. By coating [part of] your model in gloss and then going over it again with matte varnish to remove the shine, You add an extra layer of protection. This is mostly for models that are going to be in games (especially those with waterslide transfers!) rather than display pieces that sit on a shelf; perhaps the anon who advised you thusly was concerned that your intricate space-pattern on the cloak was going to get rubbed off by da uvva ladz 'n' dere greasy mitts.
Got my glottkin today, plastic GUO when?
>>52518231
Thanks, that makes sense. This is just a display one since its for a friend who doesn't play but really like Eldar.
>>52518341
>>52518427
>>52518341
Other than this >>52518427, Id say its pretty freaking awesome. But this will be easily fixed with some gs. And in the speed your painting, it should be no trouble fixing in no-time!
Keep up the good work!
>>52518073
As >>52518231 mention, gloss varnish is fukken varnish! This will make the stuff you paint rock solid. Base over with a dull-coat if you want to flat it out again. I always do this for metal miniatures, no other way to keep the paint firmly on for the next 10+ years with regular playtime!
If you're not in to the esthetic look of course, it could look quite cool to have a gloss finish on the cloak, just because it would stand out more.
>>52496905
c l e a n
>>52505942
Pretty cool idea!
>>52501257
dude... where's those pics?
>>52505380
>No, I can't make anything as nice as that
The dude literally spelled it out for you jackass.
And I second his post! The idea is dumb in my opinion, but Im not that in to dioramas myself (being a gaming man myself, I have a hard time finding the point of dioramas).
>>52496905
I just cant take my eyes of your army.
Its textbook example of the GW colors, but taken one (or perhaps two!) steps further! Extremely clean as people has already mentioned, and I can only hope to achieve this greatness when fielding my own army (some day! I swear.. Some fucking day!).
>>52518778
I'M TAKING THEM RIGHT NOW, JESUS, GET OFF MY BACK WILL YOU
Nah, just kidding, got back home later than I thought. I'm taking some pics right now.
Gimme a few minutes.
>>52512502
>>52512517
In the midst of all this complaining about improperly sized, blurry images, I want to take a moment to properly honor Anon here for his outstanding work and contribution to the field of image resizing and general non-blurriness.
Thank you Anon. You are an inspiration and may I say hero to the people of this board. May the mold lines always present themselves for removal before priming, and may your paints be thin and your layers plentiful, and may your brush make a nice, fine tip, just like that
Figure i'd ask here too
Any thoughts of making bases that are similar to the colour pallet of Duskwood/Tirisfal Glades/Silverpine Forest?
I've already got the bluish/grey done but i can't figure out a good flock
Something like this https://www.darksphere.co.uk/p.php?p=71899 ?
>>52515644
Looks nice. The dirty robes are a good addition.
>>52518992
duskwood actually uses the same color pallete as elwynn forest. it gets it's spooky coloration from the blue ambient lighting.
>>52518992
You can always wash/paint the flock with a blue wash to get the right colors.
Might look odd unless you paint the minis with the same ambient light though.
>>52518992
Get hold of a set from GSworld rolling pin. I can highly recommend those things for stuff like the pavement for instance. Great stuff!
>>52518992
Reality in Scale has some really cool ground-scatter that would fit in a dark forest environment.
http://www.realityinscale.com/epages/61537336.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61537336/Products/DET02
Especially if you gently desaturate the colour with some light washes of blue.
>>52519015
Huh that's a bit of cool info.
I always found Duskwood/Tirisfal/Silverpine to the comfiest places and now i'm starting AoS Death i'd figure i'll bring it along
>>52519047
Thoughts on that flock though? If there's nothing that goes well i can always just stick with Nightshade washed Astrogranite
>>52519061
>>52519109
Holy shit this is so cool, thanks anons
>>52519109
That guy who spent weeks painting his lovely Birch Durthu and then based it like a 6 year old should tear it off and give this a look
>>52518008
You are a retard.
>>52519125
>Thoughts on that flock though? If there's nothing that goes well i can always just stick with Nightshade washed Astrogranite
Didn't look at them before. Tufts you should probably better drybrush.
Flock, as in the greebly spongy stuff that you can use as undergrowth or moss, takes well to being washed. You can drybrush that too to add definition.
Or put it in to a plastic container with some paint and recolor it before applying it.
Anyway, the tufts you linked look like they might do the trick.
If you give the stonework a blueish hue it should all come together.
>>52519183
>>52519125
happy to assist Anons, RiS has some great stuff if you want natural looking scenery.
>>52519218
Thank you anon
>>52518845
Alright, I took a few, but I had for some reason the camera in my phone decided to fuck with me again, so I'll try to take some better ones in the next thread.
For now, those'll have to do.
Here's a group pic of what I've finished so far.
>>52519340
I'll post a few individual units now.
>>52519366
Good ol' dred.
>>52519393
Here's my termicide squad. Never leave your demonic fortress without one.
>>52519415
and the DG pauldrons (I just cut out the resin FW symbols and glued them on)
>>52519435
Here's one of the rhinos. I had a few vindicator parts lying around, and thought: hey, why not.
>>52519463
aaaand the back
>>52519340
>>52519366
>>52519393
>>52519415
>>52519435
>>52519463
>>52519486
So, yeah that's pretty much it, + the captain I painted for my 2nd mordheim warband.
Sorry for clogging the thread, and the pictures (for some reason my phone decided to put this fog-ish filter on them).
Is dungeon-tile-anon here perhaps? I'm interested in knowing your process. Or does anyone have a good ways to paint Dwarven Forge tiles?
>>52518845
As an added bonus for this anon's dedication I'll slip in a little sneak peak for what I'm painting next (alongside the unit of bikers).
Propably the dumbest idea I had in a long, long time.
But hey, the rules say he's supposed to be ON a bike.
That's it for now, I'll try to take clearer pictures next time.
>>52519586
Needs more cocaine.
>>52519586
>chaos lord on a bike
>he's actually surfing on the damn thing
>while the driver's doing a fucking wheelie
If I ever saw that motherfucker on a table I'd loose my shit. In a good way.
>>52519518
>>52519586
Looking good Anon, I like how the green really captures a bit of a sewage, rot vibe. Very fitting for Nurgle marines.
>>52519669
The driver counts as a combat familiar, which makes sense, since, 2 S4 AP- attacks.
>>52510247
how did no one reply to this.
>>52519735
what are you talking abo-
*reads >>52510247 *
What the actual fuck
This one again >>52496060 , I just GS'd pretty much anything I had assembled but not painted in my entire collection.
How long should I wait before going in to file down some of the green stuff? I was going to wait overnight, but if I can wait less time then I will.
Alright guys, I've done my first paintjob in four years, with subpar paint choice and badly maintained brushes...
Give it to me straight.
what are good brushes to get. heard winsor newton series would good. any opinions
How can reaper bones even compete?
>>52519573
Hello Friend.
Are those the ones with the Imperial Guard in red? If so I am he.
The real easy process I use:
1. Scrub the tiles, they have release agent on them.
2. Undercoat using Army Painter Grey Spray - other paints tend to make the paint dry tacky. DForge have a table of what goes tacky and what doesn't.
3. Once dry get your "odd brick" colour - I use Vallejo leather brown. Then just pick random bricks and paint them.
4. Once random bricks are painted, wash using Agrax Earthshade All over. Make sure it's catching the crevasses and keep an eye on any pooling as the design of games tiles causes it to flow to the bottom. I just use a brush to mop up excess and reapply bits looking a bit sparse.
5. Then Dry Brush using a much lighter colour to your random bricks. I prefer to use Khaki from Vallejo. You'll want to use light coats here. You're looking to 'Unify' the different colour bricks and the grey bricks together. If you go too heavy use tactical application of Agrax Earthshade to tone it back again.
6. Take a bright grey or stone colour. I use Wolf Grey from Vallejo. Now apply a very very light drybrush with it - it's called feathering for some reason. You almost want no paint on the brush when you do so then just sort of lightly dust the tiles and bricks to catch the very top detail. This helps soften and blend the stones further.
7. Pick random parts and use tufts of grass and flowers and what not. Make sure its one tuft for every 7-10 pieces you paint up. Less is more here.
8. Your done. Can crack about 20 tiles in a few hours.
I'm going to experiment with some water pools and flocks in my next batch.
Tips:
Definitely Wash the tiles in soapy warm water and rinse.
Less is more when it comes to tufts and features.
Be patient with your dry brush and really build up several thin layers otherwise you get colour clumps and it looks unnatural.
Don't use too many odd-colours on your brick work as it won't mesh well.
Hope that helps
>>52521972
Welp, its messy and the paint looks uneven,particularly the green. I see a mold line on the chainsword forearm. Nothing appears to have been highlighted or washed so its rather flat looking, and the choice of weapon conversion seems a bit odd with their still being a magazine attached to a weapon with a pilot light.
That all said, you atleast tried to pick out all the details there's certainly been far messier posted here. Get the proper tools and paint for the job to start with, try to atleast get a wash on the metals and highlight on the green and red. Try checking out some tutorials on the robes which will probably be the trickiest thing to add depth too without it looking either too subtle or too stark.
>>52505942
Remember to file away and fill in the skaven icongraphy.
>>52512893
Those are just headless khorne dudes with a very minor amount of shit tacked on. Possessed at best, certainly not worthy of being called warp spawns.
>>52517055
Needs more gubbins. You just tacked on guns and grots and decided to call it a day.
>>52517118
>>52517144
>>52517173
>>52517204
Lightly looted but well ork-used nonetheless!
>>52522290
Bones competes because it's incredibly inexpensive.(But you lose sculpt quality on the Bones material)
>>52499192
>100% freehand
how do you get nice solid lines like that with a brush? everytime i try to do anything remotely free hand the lines are shitty and the paint never travels far enough, even when its watered down
>>52517452
and now, Abaddon Black is called Chaos Black again
>>52523014
the point is these new wizkid miniatures cost almost the same as bones but look way better.
>>52519586
>drive me closer, I wanna punch them with my fist
>>52521972
the choice of paint isn't the problem, it looks more like the brushes are
>>52523014
>Bones competes because it's incredibly inexpensive.(But you lose sculpt quality on the Bones material)
most bones are shitty but some were sculpted by people who actually knew what they were doing
>>52521972
thin your paints down, make sure its always consistent (a great way of doing this is making a wet palette)
invest in better brushes and layer paints/oils to add shadow and highlights
>>52523188
I didn't know where they were from to begin with, so thanks.
>>52523322
Most of Bones is recasts of their older models originally produced in metal.
>>52523449
>Most of Bones is recasts of their older models originally produced in metal.
I guess that explains it. The better bones models are likely the sculpts
Even failcast did a LOT better with new sculpts actually intended for that medium.
>>52523313
Yeah, makes sense. Thanks.
>>52521972
Thanks for the advice. I'm trying to get back into the groove, but it's not like I was ever great to begin with. My biggest issue seems to be treating my brushes right and keeping them from getting paint dried on, even though I constantly clean them.
But, regarding the paints, thanks for the advice. I tried getting more colors and textures by mixing some paints in my palette, so that I could add some texture to the robe and armor, but I think it just made it look messy (pic related). I will definitely get some glosses and washes next time I'm at my LGS.
>>52523434
Thanks for the advice. I will try to thin my paints down more. I do try to thin them, but my brushes keep getting particulate in them and it makes the application all thick and gritty. What's a wet palette?
>>52523536
meant for >>52522781
I picked up some Harlequins for Shadow war cause I thought they'd be a fun project to do, but now that i've got them built up I've no idea what to do for paint.
I was thinking of trying some freehand stuff, drawing stars and planets on their coats to make them look like the night sky, whats the best way to go about this?
Also the guys with capes aren't stuck to their legs yet I just tacked them on for the picture
>>52523639
airbrush on some galaxies and nebulae, with freehanded stars
use masking to get those nice diamond grids if that is a thing you want.
>>52523674
I'm a cheapskate and don't own an airbrush and at the moment don't really have the money to spend on getting a decent one
>>52523014
>>52523322
>>52523495
desu naughty boiz I have them on twitter and they retweet a lot of tweets from people painting their minis and they're good quality from what Ive seen. My gf has some too and they're decent quality
>>52523946
they are a pain in the ass to paint though. primer acts weird on them and the surface of the plastic is hydrophobic.
>>52515426
They're one of the three worst releases GW ever managed... These guys, the Razorgor and the old Blood-Slaughterer Wheeled (!) Daemon engine of Khorne (Brass spawn of the blood god, but it can't do stairs :P).
At what point is a mold slip unfixable?
>>52523970
never heard of that problem. That is weird
What's a cheap but decent brush I can buy on amazon? It seems like the GW ones go bad super quick.
>>52524347
GW ones are overpriced but if they're going bad super quick it's most likely user error due to ignorance.
>>52524366
I figured that, but I'd rather get a brush I know is replaceable but will still do the job because I'd rather not spend an insane amount on brushes.
>>52502066
I ironically have just purchased all the chems nessecary to electroplate gold. I plan on plating a pewter mini and I want to mask off some areas.
What would be the best sealant i guess. Clear coat? It has to survive some rough solution.
Does anyone have any experience in magnetizing capt aethon from B@C?
I'd like to have a cataphractii terminator captain option for the future, and I really hate the idea of not being able to magnetize models like him. I have all the other cataphractii magnetized easy peasy, even have the shoulders done so that I can swap out arms for loadouts.
However this guy is a bit harder to get the angles right for magnetization, i am afraid that I would have to magnetize each piece, not just the arms.
>>52524347
So anyone have a recommendation?
>>52524402
might work - I often used black sharpie as a masker when etching copper/brass plates for printing, that might work?
>>52524485
I suppose a better question would be; what do you all use for cata termy captains?
Would you use this guy or one of the other more standard cata models?
The others are way easier to magnetize, but this one looks cooler
>>52524347
Windsor & Newton Series 7 #00's are 16.21 with Prime. That's a very nice brush and cheaper than GW by $5-10
>>52523791
although the quality may be dubious, 15 dollar gravity fed dual action airbrushes do exist
tankless low PSI compressors are pretty cheap.
>>52523970
If you give the bones models a wash in warm soapy water first and then a coat of polyurethane primer (letting it cure completely) it will stick just fine.
>Tackling buncha Fire Warriors, have 22 left
>Decide to batch paint half, only undergarments for now as it's mind numbing.
>Manage to do 12 before I tap out
>Get sudden desire to paint later at night, 11pm
>Basecoat those 12' armour
I can do it. I have the drive this time, the more minis I finish the more drive I'm getting. After years of barely doing shit, I might actually finish a fucking 2K army in like a month! It's nuts!
These mold slips are pretty bad, especially the arm. Is this salvageable?
>>52524485
I have this guy coming in the mail. Got him as part of the Space Marine Heros pack for 15 dollars off ebay. Question is if I'll be able to convert him with a power sword instead of a dumb chainsaw so he can be run as a WYSIWYG Dark Angels Terminator Company Master
>>52525259
I magnetized him, and it was a real pain in the ass. I can't quite get all the mold lines to dissapear this way, but at least I can run him WYSIWYG.
It took I shit you not 12 magnets.
3 torso parts = 8 contact points (A to B, B to C, A to C x 2)
Left arm = 2 contact points
right arm = 2 contact points
>>52525952
A to C meaning the back part has a connection to his "head", and also to the toppart of the armor.