WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

First for DOOMTHUMBS

Sat gluing berzerkers for a tournament tomorrow that I completely forgot was happening

Not having fun, would rather be working on raptors or a display piece

>>51897090
that guy just terrifies me

>>51897233
too bad, he's /OurGuy/ now

>>51897090
>>51897233
>>51897236
What'd I miss ?

>>51897260
some troll or most likely some mental fuck on DakkaDakka who makes weird tyranid and space marine conversions and paints using dips and washes made of blueberries, cum, or his blood.

>>51897260
https://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/user/34764-Doomthumbs.html

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krieg guy here, finished this autocannon team a couple months ago but forgot to take pictures. Also built a ghetto lightbox but i need better lamps.

>>51897336
looks good man, I'm a real fan of that colour scheme on their uniform, weathering and basing is spot on, makes me want to do kreig now... eventually

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>>51897321
>>51897330

alright guys, I think I might have messed up but I'm not sure what part of the process I messed up on

it was 15C two days ago, nice and dry, so I decided to do some priming of some Trollbloods on the beautiful day. I picked up a cheap can of white primer, essentially a no-name brand, and got to work. I noticed it was a little... gritty, almost? after I finished spraying. I hadn't had it happen before, but for the most part before this I've used primer+paint spraypaints, so I left it alone. Now I'm starting to get a bit of chipping while I'm using it, but I'm not sure if the chipping is because I sprayed inappropriately/with shit spray or if it's to be expected with primer-only spray

>>51897336
Weathering is dope my man, good jawb.

>>51897364
a few factors could have affected the results,
1: the weather, normally what i would do is if its really hot or cold i would spray indoors or in an air conditioned environment in general,
2: You didn't shake the can well enough, give it AT LEAST 3 mins, spray on a test sprue, if it has a gritty and/or powdery finish, keep shaking, it if comes out glossy, you are good to go.
followed these guidelines for 10 years and it has never failed me, especially when i live in the shit weather of Australia

>>51897364
I should clarify to anyone who knows Privateer Press plastics that it was the 2-player battlebox Fennblades, and I washed them I THOUGHT enough before I sprayed but I might not have, looking back.

>>51897393
so what should I do? I was thinking I could fix it by using some hairspray/sealant when I'm done so that it doesn't keep chipping, and I REALLY don't want to have to strip the models. I'm not going for anything above tabletop quality, btw.

>>51897409
im afraid you will maybe have to strip the models, using a varnish over the primer will just ruin it, since adding normal acrylics on top of that wont stick because you have just sealed the primer, i recommend to use isopropyl alcohol or metho spirits

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Heres the progress of a portion of my 1000pt Mongolian themed ogre army...
Id say its 70% complete, just go to do some more highlights on some stages and some general cleanup but so far im pretty happy with the progress...
feedback is aprreciated

>>51897590
i like the skin, anon! it's a lovely green.

>>51897590
Is this racist
I feel like it is racist

>>51897635
racist towards me, im a finn.

>>51897635
Fuck off.

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>>51897635
no, i based the scheme entirely on this artwork

>>51897440
I meant sealing it at the end, so that the paint on top of the primer doesn't come off.

>>51897782
then yeah that can possibly work

>>51897681
that feels racist

Does anyone have that picture with multiple color schemes for standard guardsman handy? For some reason my google-fu is weak today. -Thanks

>>51897681
Bravo to you, for sticking to the old theme. Mongol ogres had tons of flavor. All of it awesome.

Rhino lifting? The Great Maw! Putting fur on their grots' feet!!

>>51897681
I mean, I'm not bashing you for using that scheme because objectively it IS a good scheme and I would use it on something else, but that is pretty racist. Keep fielding it, though. You did fantastic on the paint job and anyone who gets pissy can choke on mongol dick

>>51897934
>Anything that shares similarities with another race is rascist

Please go back to tumblr

>>51897860
>>51897934
Contrary to what shit leftists are spewing nowadays, what he's doing is not actually racist.

Stereotyping perhaps, but how else would you make giant fat beast look Mongolian without stereotyping their look a bit? They grow long skinny moustaches, they wear fur hats, they have a non-white skintone. It would only be "racist" if he then threw on some buck teeth, squinty eyes, and so on.

Why did i paint ove the palette... God dammit

I wanna convert some custodes into pic related, any recommendations for the bolters and heads?

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>>51898143
Forgot pic

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>>51898068
>anything that shares similarities with race is racist
>here, we're gonna shove as many of the American stereotypes into the warring faction from the East as we can before it looks like we copypasted pic related onto an ogre body

>>51898089
stereotyping is not inherently racist, but when you're making a group meant to be savages and you just shove as many of the stereotypes into it as you can it's not exactly subtle what you're trying to emulate. I'm not saying he should kill himself because he's a nazi, I'm just saying that yeah, that picture is clearly has racist undertones and saying it's doesn't is stupid. As to how you could do it without looking racist? I dunno, I'm not a designer. Logically you could make the skin more ashen than yellow, that would IMMEDIATELY stop the harkening back to asian skintones. Dropping the fu man chus would be too much, I think, because they're so important to the model.

>>51898173
Fair enough, but I feel like the emphasizing the "savages" over the "hordes from the east" is what's making this racist.

>>51898173
Mongol Ogre OP here, I didn't intend for the skin to cause any stereotyping, as i felt that it was a good look in the artwork i saw and it works with the deep red and bronze colour scheme i had been going for. I don't also feel that its racist because they dont reflect on what mongols are today since the whole aesthetic is of mongolians from the 13th and 14th century, Im pretty sure that Disney Movie Mulan did it with their depiction of the Huns (although they were meant to be Mongols) and im pretty sure they didn't receive any flak from that

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>>51897887
Here you go.

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About 2/3rds of the way through I think...
Whatcha guys think so far?

>>51898332
Gracias Senpai

>>51898276
it's not racist and he's a fucking retard. Is Empire racist because they are stereotypical militarist moustache germans? no. Ogres occupy the not himalayas/altaics of warhammer, its fine that they are mongol/tibetan themed. Also the old scheme shits on the pink piggy look they get painted as now.

>>51898574
>>51898173
Holy fuck this is /wip/ fuck off back to /pol/

>>51898606
/wip/ is for discussing schemes, fuck off.

What are you working on, /wip/?

I'm currently basecoating 20 Khorne Warriors and 6 Juggernaut riders, don't even want to think about how fucking long it would take without an airbrush

>>51898276
>>51898173 guy here, I never said it was a bad paint scheme? I like it, like I mentioned in my previous post, I just think that people saying "it's not racist because muh fantasy" are stupid. As you point out, the reason Mulan didn't get any flak is because they weren't throwing stereotypes into the Huns and saying "look they're clearly asian they've got slanty eyes and yellow skin," if I'm not wrong they had grey skin which is where my earlier suggestion came from. it looked good, and it worked for a massive movie.
You keep doing you my dude, your paint looks good and your minis look choice.

>>51898630
Nah youre arguing about unrelated shit, fuck off to somewhere else

>>51898679
People like you are why we can't have nice things anymore.

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>>51898674
Forgot pic, juggernauts not pictured.

>>51898679
no that's unacceptable, you can't claim someone's scheme is racist and not expect some backlash. It's an unbeleivably ignorant and obnoxious thing to say in the first place. Also you are going to have to provide an argument as to why a PAINT SCHEME in a fantastical miniatures game is racist if you think it is a stupid defence so go ahead or apologise.

Mulan isn't racist because the Huns/Xiognu aren't an existing population and are totally open to interpretation like most ancient races. In fact the depiction of Han chinese is more racist if anything especially the buck toothed scribe. But it doesn't fucking matter because people realise that cartoons STEROTYPE FACIAL CHARACTERISTICS so you know what fucking race you are looking at.

>>51898679
I didn't take what you said as a distaste to my scheme no, I was just justifying that my choice of the skin tone was purely artistic and I would say any relation to Mongolians is an aesthetic choice, because I felt it was your main point on the possible stereotyping at play... in the end I did not choose to paint them like "eastern savages" just to replicate what the artwork I based them on since I like the aesthetics of 14th century Mongols they were going for

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>>51897336
is it me or does that autocannon look waay too much like the standard guard heavy stubber?

>>51898832
its a FW autocannon, but in a mistake i broke the original sights and had to replace it with stubber sights.

>>51898674
Maybe Glueing Lootas and bikers so I can prime them tomorrow or Monday as I have a day off work. Finishing painting my Death Company dread later too maybe.

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Does this stuff also work as primer, or do I need something separate?

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>>51898674
Finished the custodians until magnets arrive next week. Ebay seller forgot to send arms with some force swords I bought for the tartarus termies in BoP and the kit only has powerfists so stuck until he sends them on wednesday.

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Tried some texture techniques on the clothes, I like how the white fur turned out. Now I need to decide the colors for the inner cloth and the weird ring.

>>51898630
Go the fuck back to /pol/
>>51898606
/tg/ is too easy to troll so /pol/ raids the 40k general constantly. Some guy that avatarfags with laughing cheetahs and another that regurgitates a copypasta about how a shitty female sung techno song is the best theme song for Night Lords.

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>>51899133
Does it say "primer" anywhere on the can?
It's essentially citadel paint with aerosol to be used for base coats and stencil work for camo patterns. Get yourself this, spraypaint can be shipped. I much prefer grey primer but you may want to go with white for a yellow scheme.

>>51899180
What model is that?

>>51899133
Yes, you can use it as a primer.

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>>51897321

>>51899595
id like to know this as well

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Bjorn the freshly fell-handed.

Should I keep the wolf-like lenses?

>>51899595
>>51899712
Knight from Kingdom Death
It's 32mm-54mm so it won't be compatible with 28mm

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>>51899746
Does GW sell this blood effect ? It looks pretty dope

>>51899746
Not sure what is 'wolf like' about them and that frostblade is hideous but overall nice weathering.

>>51899804
I just used my own.

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>>51899903
Time to put my emo ways to good use then

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Well, my new house's garden is interesting already. Found this out there and had an idea because I'm a little crazy. Anyone have a guide to recasting bigger things? If I did resin recasts of the head, feet, pelvis and legs I'd have a lot of parts towards a Magos Biologis Warhound Titan. Something ran off with leg #4, I'm leaving the rest out there until the rest of the fleshy bits are gone.

Any ideas for how I could do a body? The skull is pretty much the right size for a Warhound cockpit with Princeps.

>>51899972
Is that you doomthumbs?

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>>51899180
I was going to paint up 'some' redheads for my army, but now i want o paint all redheads.

Is that just dark with progressively lighter layers? Is their a wash in the hair?

>>51900020
No, it isn't, although in hindsight it sounds like one of his ideas. I'm slightly less crazy, as far as I can tell.

>>51899972
this sounds metal af, love it. cant help you tho, sorry.

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>>51899804
Sorry it's Tamiya clear red.

It's a ethyl based paint so it dries out in like 30 seconds flat making it terrible for normal painting., but great for gore.

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>>51897635
>>51897860

>>51899972
>>51900046
before you can cast anything you'd need to clean it properly at least.
Playing around with an old cadaver is generally not a good idea though.

Recasting is a good thought though, since using the bones as is, without getting the fat out of them, will likely have some unforeseen consequences for any paint you try to apply on there.

If I was you, I'd just look for some dinosaur toys or whatever. It's not like there is a shortage of spoopy skeletons in any given toy aisle.

>>51897590
Holy shit just a small change to the eyebrow makes them too way more horrifying and exotic.

You are now hearing the horrifying sound of Mongolian ogre throat singing

>>51899972
>>51900148
boiling the bones for a long time in a barrel or something should work with cleaning them up, or find a large enough forest ant nest and throw it in there for a week.

>>51898163
wait 'till the actual kits come out ?

>>51899972
>>51900186
http://www.adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=hunting.skull

Does anyone know if the Stormvermin kit comes with round bases? GWs site only lists them as coming with squares, so unsure if they have forgotten to update the text, or haven't updated the kit for AoS.
I want to use them as plaguebearers for my Daemon summoning, because skaven are great, and current PBs look quite shit.

>>51899133
Yes you can use it.

>>51899595
Percival from Kingdom Death, it's 32mm, a bit taller than a space marine.

>>51900041
The base is orange, shadows are a wash of a reddish brown, highlights mixing first yellow then ivory.

>>51898173
Hey fuckwit, it might suprise you to note their were savages of every skin colour throughout history. Do you get angry that savage orcs resemble Zulus? Or lizardmen doing sacrifices on their ziggurats is somehow racist to Aztecs. Something tells me yes. Unless you're mongolian, no one gives a fuck if you're offended by Mongol stereotypes. Don't get offended on other peoples behalf, especially on a anonymous image board.

Guess what. Mongols were fucking savages and they destroyed whole cultures. They deserve to be the archetype for hordes from the steppes.

Kindly fuck off back to /pol/, or kys.

>>51899972
It'll be a pain in the ass to cast, due to all the small holes and stuff in a cadaver like that. But quickest way to get rid of the fleshy stuff fast would be to put it in water. It'll smell awful though, but the bacteria will eat away all of it over time. Then you can put it in some bleach or similar to disinfect afterwards.

>>51898606
Nah, this snowflake would get holocausted by /pol/ in seconds.

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>>51900112
>>51900186
>>51900230
>>51900369


Yeah, obviously clean them beforehand. Not quite that insane.

>>51900230

Might be helpful, thanks.

Anyone have a guide to resin recasting then? I have the tutorials for the greenstuff way for smaller stuff, and it doesn't matter if I lose some of the smaller detail, it'll need some work anyway to make it suitable for a Titan head. Also, not like the Warhound kit is particularly detailed for a FW model as is, it's rather ugly IMO. Will need a bunch of cybernetic augmentation anyway. Probably using the actual guns, obviously, since they're distinct and I can magnetize them.

>>51900352
[ X ] Told
[ ] not told.

>>51900437
There should be a lot of guides to casting on the internet, just google around. However, it might be quite expensive to cast large pieces like that, just so you're aware.
I would block off a lot of the holes in the bones before casting (especially the cranium) with something first, as otherwise your mold material will leak in.

>>51900593
I suspect it will be considerably less expensive than buying the Titan in the first place, at least. I'll have a look around.

Good call on filling the holes, I would rather not have my cockpit filled with resin to start with.

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>>51900653
Yeah, likely cheaper than the titan indeed. But still quite a bit on the way to that price range. I do however really like the idea, so looking forward to see your work here in the future. I myself have a lot of animal bones, both from a relative that is a hunter, and stuff found in the woods, but never tried casting them or use them for warhammer stuff. This doesn't include a collection of femurs and such from moose, and a boar skull.

>>51900352
youd get offended regardless of your race or background if youre an SJW, i wholeheartedly agree with everything you said

>>51900742
>pitchfork
>scythe
>animal remains
A farmer, I presume.

>>51900792
Indeed, what else?

>>51900437
metal as fuck

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Reminder that a year has gone by.

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Picked up a set of Blightkings, this is my first shot at painting something Nurgle, heard Nurgle models were good for learning to do more with an airbrush than just basecoatss, really happy with it so far.

>>51900840
Unfortunately I've never saved screenshots of him, anyone got a collage or smth so I can relive it?

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>>51900840
We remember.

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>>51900437
>Anyone have a guide to resin recasting then?

Does this help?

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>>51900863
>chruchbro

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>>51899180

>>51900832
Why thank you. It's the Dark Mechanicum, they don't tend towards sane designs often.

>>51900863
Why was he so offended?

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>>51897050

Hey WIP, Kingdom Death player here. I have a technical question for you.

The final boss of the game is monster called The Watcher. Pic related. Obviously not main paintjob, but the flat grey shop pic of it doesn't showcase the part I am having trouble with.

I can paint most of this guy just fine. Cloak, Lanterns, all nice. But the scarf covered in faces is really pissing me off. I have stripped the paint down to the naked plastic three times now trying to get those fuckers to look like anything other than malformed boogers that lack anything remotely like facial features, and its pissing me off.

From a purely technical standpoint, how the hell do I paint these things while making them look faces at the end? At first I thought my paint was just going on too thick and obscuring the details of the faces, but Ive been thinning the shit out of my paints and it hasn't done dick for me on the last 2 tries.

>>51901046

obviously not MY paintjob*

>>51898173
Consider painting in the middle of the closest high way my man, you do you do you.

>>51901046
Leave the recesses darker when you layer? Give them a wash?

>>51900896
Thanks, that may also come in handy. Not many guides deal with stuff of this scale, although I'm sure I can find one eventually.

>>51900084
Ok thanks

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This is my brother Magnus he recently painted, opinions? he is looking to get better.

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>>51901154
more

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>>51901171
last pic

>>51901101

Yeah, that's what Ive been trying to do. But the recesses are really goddamn shallow, I'm lucky if I don't completely obliterate the eyes and I never see a mouth or a nose after the first layer past the primer.

Washes haven't been my friend on this at all. For normal people, I can trust the wash the fill in the little eyes and face details and it usually end sup looking better than when I started. For the scarf, it just makes everything I spent the last two hours painting look so shitty I have to strip it and start again. This is how the last two attempts ended.

>>51901046
Do you want them to look like in pic, or life like?

>>51901234
have you considered painting the faces just in washes? like, paint white and then just hit with thinned down washes or glazes until desired effect? might be easier with such a low relief feature?

>>51901154
please learn some photoshop or sumthin and merge the images next time ffs. Overall it looks nice, but nothing spectacular, like it lacks some depth and love. Are the wings of different color or is it just the lighting?

>>51901338
just the lighting

>>51901293

My plan is for the scarf to largely be a Mahogany color, darkening to umber around the edges of the faces, with the faces themselves being a ghostly pale yellow. The color scheme itself looks fine, the detail is just shit.

>>51901332

So, I just had an ugly idea and I checked. Lucky for me I have a spare sprue of Watcher parts because I backed the first kickstarter. It looks like I have having so much trouble because in the process of scrubbing the paint off before I have essentially sanded down some of the plastic. The faces look a lot smoother, with less pronounced noses and features, on my painted model than on the unpainted sprue.

So it looks like the reason why this is so hard is that after my first attempt I fucking destroyed the model and everything since then has been an increasing exercise in futility where every attempt has been less likely to succeed than the last!

So... I guess the question has now become "how do I not fuck up and physically ruin the model this time around, because I don't have any spares after this?"

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>>51900856
Looking good. Nurgle models are great for so many things, learning to greenstuff and learning to paint with washes have been two big ones for me.

Pic related are my two wips at the moment, progress has slowed though due to work and I'm away on holiday next week. Need more time!

Best brush size for layering skin lines? I feel like all the ones I use have too few bristles, and just bend and fray when I try to pull a clean line.

Mainly lines like on muscles, and things of that nature.

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I want to repose the hellbrute from the DA box. I already cut of the feet and intend to change lengthen the pose. I intend to use greenstuff but if anyone else has some advice please share it with me! Since its nurgle i want to make some rot on one leg and a nurgle mark on the other.

Ive got a whole bunch of dudes primed and ready to go, whats the best way to get them done in a batch?
I've just been quickly slapping on the first bit of skin colour on them with a big brush as thats the majority of the model and I plan to do 10 at a time

>>51897336

Real nice weathering there anon, that banged up uniform looks spot on for any Kreig worth his salt! Also really liking the base, it really ads character to this piece , a story of its own so to speak. Did you do the sandbags in GS yourself or is it a pre-bought resin deal?

All in all, superb. A full army of this would literally blow me away!

>>51901726

sage duncan has some advice: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8gqxOcNy-s

>>51901690
What do you want advice on specifically? Have you used greenstuff before? Do you have tools for it?

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>>51901042

As I remember, the guy got trolled pretty hard for not agreeing to another anons complaints on the base work.
In the end he and the original poster actually had a pretty descent discussion about it if I remember correctly.

Basically, it was just /tg/ being /tg/.

>>51901183
>that cloth

Man. Those are some ROUGH highlights.

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What do you think about my Putrid Blightking?
Haven't decided on base yet and my photo skills are next to nothing, but I hope that you atleast get a decent understanding of it.

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While I'm at it I'd love some C&C on this guy aswell.

>>51901848
Regardless, he did a gorgeous job.

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>>51901737
Thank you! sandbags are made of GS, i thought about buying premade ones but i already finished one heavy weapon team with GS made sandbags so it wouldve looked out of place. Im waiting on 120mm bases so i can start working on thudd guns! picture related, my other heavy weapon team, i intend to have many more

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>>51901841
i have done some greenstuffing before mostly for decoration not for entire body parts/components. See pic related.

Should i try to run a thick wire between the feet and the model and then greenstuff? Or 100% greenstuff? any advice really

>>51902077

Yea, I saved every bit! Everything thats lacking is the base in my opinion..... Not wanting to start something up here, just saying...

>>51900858
Here's the thread.
http://archive.4plebs.org/tg/thread/45613255/#45633832

I want to greenstuff tentactles and mechanical tubes but all my result turn into bad sausages, any advice?

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>>51902097
Always have an armature of steelwire for anything you sculpt for scratch. It'll both make sure the piece stays on the model, and make sure that it stays in pose. It's very easy to rip off pieces that have been sculpted without internal support, and it'll also make the sculpting itself easier. Drill a hole with a pinning drill, and put in something like this wire or guitar string

>>51902001
looks bad, anon.
the metal tooks really flat and uninteresting, and the skin is just a ruddy mess without any real definition. you can't just pick a base color and go to town with washes and what looks to be nurgle's rot, you have to layer up a bit.

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Asked a couple of threads back on advice for making a retiarius-style net. Thanks for the advice you guys gave.
Still very early in the process, but I like how it comes out overall.

>>51901446
ah, anon, your work always warms my heart!

>>51902222
cant argue with quads. Will have to go to the hardware store tomorrow for it though. Any recommended thickness?

>>51902019
Theres a mold line on his left arm.
The horns look too shiny, also consider starting with a darker colour at their base and going off in a gradient.
I think the general proportions of the model aren't that great, I don't know if it's the angle but it looks like his legs are tiny giving an overall comical look.
The Skin on his hand doesn't match the body, also needs another highlight.
Could just be because he's not based but the whole bottom of the mini sort of just blends together at the moment.

>>51902001
>>51902019
I agree with this guy >>51902227
sorry anon, but dont get discouraged, check out some painting vids, some good ones to check out is the ones done by Duncan on the Warhammer TV and the guy who does The Wargamer does some nice tutorials aswell

>>51902001
I told you my opinion about it 4 threads ago, and it STILL feels off, unfinished and in need of fixes.

Have you watched the Warhammer TV nurgle tutorials? you claimed you did, but I am not seeing it.

also
>remove flash from camera
>put miniature under light - not too bright a ligt, mind you
>take new photo

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>>51901446
i still love that GUO so much! it looks really, really good!
i myself am working on some nurgle miniatures, just finished a test model.

>>51902241
Looks dope but how do you plan to paint the net?

>>51902369
Well, the model is not yet fixed to the base, so I can reach up from below.
Beyond that? Regular basecoat, two layers with a regular brush, then some work with my finest brush, then a bit of drybrushing from the outside and a wash. That should be enough for something like that, I hope.

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Can anyone help with some colour theory?

I'm struggling to think what colour to paint the Balteas (Leather straps hanging from the waist) on my minis here.

I've tried black and it just seems wrong... desaturating and difficult to highlight up

looking for feedback / help / responses, thanks.

Could use a some help Looking for some bits. Looking for a place to get a number of lantern bits. I was planning on using them for scheme markers for malifaux. For perspective for anyone who doesn't play they're going to be on a 30mm base by themselves. If someone knows a bits company that produces some I'd prefer them to be US base, but I'll take a look at any EU ones.

I know that Warhammer has some on their building sets but they generally have some hook or arm that's supposed to attach them to the building. I'd prefer to avoid those if I can.

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>>51899804
Blood for the Blood God is basically the same as clear red, but doesn't try as fast.

Top tips are mixing in a little bit of black paint or nuln oil gloss, or mixing it with epoxy for a bit of gloop, like pic related.

>>51902463
What about a dark leather? Like a rhinox hide.

>>51902336
I think what he really did wrong here aside from the skin was go with a silver for nurgle armour.
it just... doesn't look good with nurgle skintones. their armor is dark green in most examples for a reason!

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Just won this guy in an auction, he'll give my Dark Mechanicum Skitarii Rangers some flavour.

>>51902478
Really nice. Thanks

>>51902463
You've got rust and brass in there, and considering the turquoise I'd go with a warm reddish-orange brown.

>>51902507
With some brown and sepia washes and rust effects and iron goes really well nurgle imo, alternatively brass/copper and verdigris.

>>51902463
A bright red would look nice and form a triadic colour scheme with the blue and yellow.

>>51902463
White, or a dark orange maybe? Hard to picture it

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Almost finished painting some german soldiers. I was thinking about the bases for quite some time and need your opinions. What do you think works best:

Bright green grass for a cheerful spring "winter is gone"-feel or rather brown and faded grass for that depressing "another winter is coming"-feel?

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Been working on some manic terrain I got, I'm pleasantly surprised at the quality of the kit

>>51902463
Red would usually work, bu the ochre helmets make me hesitant of that. Maybe stark white instead?
Also, I am fairly certain that those are called pteruges.

Anyone ever successfully apply camo to a vehicle using a paintbrush? I want to do digital camo and I've got a video that shows how to do it, but it uses an airbrush as opposed to a paintbrush

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>>51902572

>>51902582
>>51902571
>>51902552
>>51902535
>>51902503

Thanks for the suggestions so far, just to be clear, the shoulder pads will eventually be offwhite, like skull face on ther right.

The armour trim on all will eventually be tarnished brass like on the dude on the left

>>51902582

>pteruges

no shit? I was told they were called a Baltea back in school, bloody teachers

>>51902610
Yes, but not digital.

You will need alot of masking tape for sure but i see no reason why it can't be done with a regular brush if you keep everything smooth and thin.

>>51902614
Balteus is the entire belt. pteruges are the dangly bits.

>>51902001
>>51902019
I like the conversion work you've done and I don't think the steel colour is an issue like the other anon said. If you added rust it would look more appropriate for nurgle though, there are tons of guides of different levels on youtube.

I think you should give some thought to your use of the green and red technical paints (I forget their names). Personally I'm not a big fan of them, but I think if they are used sparingly and deliberately they could be effective. Keep practicing!

>>51902610
It would require extreme patience to mask it all off, and you'd need to keep your paints pretty thin to not show of the different coats, but it should be doable.
Will take quite a bit of time though.

>>51902614

the shoulder pads AND the helmets will be offwhite, FUCK.

Thanks again

So what's the name of that one plastic glue I've seen posted with the blue bottle?

So I just painted the base of my first few dryads with lustrian undergrowth to give it a mossy look like a forest floor but since I'm new to this I don't really know what to do for the highlighting of it to give it a more natural look, any suggestions?

>>51902325
I like both the ones in that picture, the thick one in the "roll" is around 1,5mm, and the thinner one used for the horn on the model in the corner is 0.7mm or so. Anything works. Wire is super cheap anyway, so just buy in different sizes!

>>51902654

Revell's Contacta Professional

>>51902572
>>51902612

looks good anon. I like the camo on the smocks. I would go for a fall season look so light brown tufts.

>>51902222
I used 1.5mm when I made my great Unclean one but I was making it up as I went along so there could be better options. Use whatever size you have a drill for.

When you get to greenstuffing don't try and do it all in one go. It's better to build up a base, let it cure then use that as a solid foundation to do more accurate detailed work, otherwise you end up pushing everything around with even little tweak.

>>51902551
iron, sure. silver? no. with iron it's gotta be darkened waaaay the fuck down.

>>51902614
Looks like you are correct, a dangly tabard-like thingy is called a Balteas.
>>51902582
Your Pteruges refers to a full skirt of said dangly things, they're 2 different items if google is any indication.

>>51902654
Revell Contacta Professional.

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>>51902699
obviously, I forgot the image...

>>51902692
And he's painted an iron colour, not a silver colour.

>>51902730
semantics aside, the way he's done it, it just doesn't work.

>>51902659
Elysian or Warboss green if you just want the one, or both with Warboss green as your first layer and a small bit of elysian green ontop, got any pictures?

>>51902674
Thanks. I followed a tutorial for the camo and used a toothpick to apply the dots. Very simple actually but really time consuming. I like the result too.

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>>51899972
Reminded me of the "King Khorne" tank.

Best way to clean bones is to use Hydrogen Peroxide.

Making casts of large parts is a pain though. Silicone is too expensive mang.

Cheapest way is to use Latex - should be fine for Ribs, Legs, Spinal sections etc. Make Glove moulds and produce supportive mother moulds from a stronger material.

>hot glue bone (usually upright) to mat/card/whatever
>paint on latex (pop any bubbles)
>repeat a couple more times
>add latex thickener to some latex, paint it on
>repeat until you have a thick glove of latex over object
>pour some cement into a tub
>remove from mat, place object (still in latex) half into cement - leave dry.
>oil dry cement (with latex half embedded in it) with petroleum jelly (mould release)
>pour second half of cement mould over top
>leave dry
>separate mould halves
>remove object
>remove latex glove from object

To Cast

>place latex glove mould back into cement mother mould
>spray the inside of the latex mould with a 50/50 mix of windex and water (this reduces surface tension - bubbles)
>turn the mould upside down for a minute to let any excess windex drain out
>pour some cement/plaster/concrete/whatever into mould.
>slush it around the inside of the mould, until it coated
>then fill the mould to the top

For thin parts place some steel wire into the wet plaster. So it's reinforced, otherwise castings are as brittle as fuck with no tension strength.

Other way is to make a moulding box, cover object with clay, cast mother mould over the clay. Then remove the object, take the clay off it, place it back into the mother mould, and inject Silicone into the cavity left by the missing clay.

Also note that latex shrinks, so castings wind up slightly smaller than the original. And watch out for undercuts whilst making mother moulds - or you'll have your part entombed in a block of cement. Also there are a million other ways to produce mother moulds, you can fuck around with cheese cloth if you want.

I'm looking for an airbrushable winter color scheme for Sylvaneth. I'm looking for a sort of dead tree look, anyone got any ideas? Copy paste from AOS general.

>>51902721
Not him, but I always thought pteruges were the leather straps and baltea were the metal version.

>>51902679
Yeah, this. I prsonally mostly use that thick wire as a base, then twist the thin wire around it, and let it stick out wherever thinner details are needed (like when sculpting an arm I'd have thick wire up to the wrist, then have the thinner wire stick out for the fingers).

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What's your favourite way to paint shields? On the sprue etc

>>51902463
Thats a beautiful blue, what color is it?

>>51902783
stick with muted colours, dark browns, greys and pale blues. Combine that with a bright turquoise for all your glowy fey bullshit (eyes, sprites etc. etc.)

>>51902811
I clip them off and stick them ontop of a tube I've got

>>51902786
Google seems pretty clear on the matter and only shows full skirts for pteruges, and there are several leather examples on the Baltea image search.
Now that doesn't mean that google's info is infallible, it never is, but my research didn't extend beyond those 2 searches.

>>51902814

Vallejo MC Blue Green!

>>51902241
So how did you do it?

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>>51897050
Say I want to paint the rough 40k equivalents of these guys.

What models, what paints?

>>51902780
Thanks a bunch for being that in depth. I only need one skull, and that method should work fine for copying the legs and probably the feet too, since the hooves will make good Warhound toes.

>>51902783
Kenny Boucher has a tutorial for his winter treelord.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=uV64Garw0D4

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I'm planning on doing some Late Roman-style decorative designs for my Imperial Fists (same colour scheme as in pic related)

Does anyone have some recommendations for a micro-pen? The designs I'm planning won't be this complex, but I think I'll go mad trying to do the finer parts with a brush.

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>>51902940
I used a fine protective ironing net, cut out a few shapes that might work when folded and kept forcing it into shapes. Once I got it where I wanted it, I used something close to epoxy resin applied with a thick needle to harden the individual lines. Then I did a bunch more cutting and fitting, glued a plastic thread to the outer edge of the net and worked in the the weights. Add a second layer of resin and it kinda works, though I still need to clean it up quite a bit.
Also, I lack bits to make more weights, which I am not too sure about.

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Ended up with extra force swords from the scarab occult set and wondering if to replace the force staves on the thousand son sergeants? They are pretty large and it might look strange with sergeants using the same weapons as the sekhmet terminators.

>>51903249
anon, that is just about the shittiest picture i've seen today. at least use flash!

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>>51902346

I shoulda realized that was part of the Nurgle discussion, but opon first glimpse of your thumbnail, I thought those were dreadnoughts.

Evening lads.

I'm looking to kitbash an Ork Warboss. Any suggestions for cool parts? Since the AOBR one is the only one readily available, it may have to use this as the base, but I don't want to just use that monopose dude.

I may decide later to put him on a bike or in a Mega Armour suit, but I want options.

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>>51902968
>Say I want to paint the rough 40k equivalents of these guys.
>What models, what paints?

I fink da boyz has gots ya cuvverd, boss!

>>51903305
good christ, i forgot how GOOFY those old dreads were

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>>51903249
At least try to fuck with the picture a little, even if you take it that badly.
It takes literally 30 seconds.

>>51903328
>good christ, i forgot how GOOFY those old dreads were

Yeah, although I armed them with modern weapons (twin lascannon and assault cannon), they don't see a lot of action these days. Still fun to have on the shelf, though.

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>>51903325
Saw this a while back and thought it was pretty cool.

>>51903343
apologies, just wanted to get across the situation since the models aren't painted.

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Thanks for the input y'all, really appreciate it!

>>51902227
The metal doesn't come off that particularly well in the pictures (prob. due to my inaptitude with my camera), it looks much better IRL, allthough some highlighting is needed.
Regarding definition, that's what layering accomplishes right?

>>51902336
The putrid blightking is based off of the Duncan tutorial. The skin colour is actually one of the first steps in said tutorial which I just found neat.
I will definately check out The Wargamer!

>>51902338
>I told you my opinion about it 4 threads ago, and it STILL feels off, unfinished and in need of fixes.
Okay, have done some small adjustments since the last post of him but it's good to know that things can still be improved.

>Have you watched the Warhammer TV nurgle tutorials? you claimed you did, but I am not seeing it.
I've watched the two regarding on Putrid Blightkings but haven't found any other, unfortunately.

>Regarding camera.

Believe it or not but the photos I post comes off much better than when I try them method in the picture.

>>51902507
>>51902551
I don't know where you guys get silver from. The only parts that's that are the few highlights and the sword-handle.

When I bought some new paints I also bought sepia and it does indeed get me that nurgle flavour on my armours, allthough I like the dark oily, worn down iron effect I've managed to obtain on my Putrid Blightking.


>>51902638
>The technical paints.
I do indeed need to work on how to use those paints. If anyone have any tips/ideas please let me know, as I otherwise would have to go by trial-and-error as I've not found any decent guides on the subject.

>>51900593
>>51900653
>>51899972
Something which may massively cut down on casting costs for large objects - there's a specific kind of mold material that's marketed as "brush on molds" - it's a lot thicker in consistency than most other materials and is made specifically so you can peel it off of large objects, I think. If I remember correctly (and I might be completely wrong), you can also cover it in fiberglass or other resin once it's done to give it a hard shell. That way, the mold is only a few cm thick while still being robust.

>>51900804
>>51900792
A Slav, possibly.

>>51902968
Maybe a few guys from here: https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Colonel-Schaeffers-Last-Chancers

and some other Astra Mil models?

>>51902327
>mold line.
Hm, missed that myself, thanks for pointing it out!
>The horns.
Yeah, those were the first horns I did and they do need to be improved.
>Proportions of the mini.
That's due to my amazing photo-skills. His fat belly just make his legs seem small in the picture. IRL the only thing that's a bit out of proportion is the left arm.
>His hand.
That's a glove. What highlight would you suggest?
>The bottom of the mini
Agreed, I need to do something about his shoes and pelty loincloth.

>>51903326
I'm totally doing this with my orks

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In memory of the Great Church Incident, I quickly painted up my own Knight base, mini church beacon included.

Still fairly new to painting, probably a ton of mistakes here and I have no idea whether this picture came out OK, but I tried. Eventually they'll be a dead Son of Horus, some barbed wire and texture paint on there too, but I need to do the Knight legs first.

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>>51903370
Indeed it is!

I myself am also a fan of orc ogre conversions such as in my picture.

>>51903370
>>51903669
>>51903325
This guy might be a bit more suited for inspiration for WH40K however

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>>51903713
Crap forgot the photo!

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>>51902761
Sorry for taking so long, had to leave to go do something, but these are 2 of them, the bases just look too plain to me, and what do I just highlight or try to do some dry brushing with those colors?

>>51903728

Why does he have a Warhammer Fantasy Ogre Maw belly symbol? Weird.

>>51903669
Why does a fungus have nipples?

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That's enough for tonight I think, i'm experimenting with the base, I popped some of the forge world clear paint whilst the texture was wet and I liked the result, they're really glossy paint so once the agrax dries it should hopefully look pretty good.

Also sorry for shit cropping.

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Making progress with the Yncarne, does /wip/ approve?

Also is it bad if I get a boner when painting this model's trap ass.

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>>51903874
>Why does a fungus have nipples?

'CUZ WHEN DA OLD UNZ MADE US THEY UZED WAAAGH N' SPICE N' EVERYTHIN' NICE U ZOGGIN' GROT

Is there any dreadnought painting apps like the space marine one on bolter and chainsword

>>51904028
DAS RITE!

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>>51903918
Yes, yes it is

>>51904028
ok I chuckled

>>51904028
Boss? Why dem panzy elfdar got nippels den? dey isnt nice at all.

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>>51904094

How can you resist dat ass

>>51904238
Too much 'plastic-fantastic' for me.

>>51904238
Did you paint him with the whorly-magic tornado thing or did you paint his body/hair/magic seprately?

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>>51904181
THAT'S CUZ THER PANZY GOD GOT 'EM JUST NICE BUT NO SPICE LIKE US PROPA ORCS
N' SPEAKIN' OF SPICE, I FINK IT'S TIME FOR SUM WAAAAGH
NOW TAKE DEM CLOTHES OFF SO I CAN SEE HOW MUCH DAKKA YOU 'AVE

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>>51904313

>>51904313
>dose big 'unz
O-oi Boss, I dunno if I can handle dat much dakka

>>51904309

In the photo it is just propped into place, I haven't glued the body to the hair/swirly yet. Seems like way too much of a pain to paint the details on the body when you have a fragile spikey swirl in the way.

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>>51904313
dats a lota spice boss

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>>51904313
Damn greenskins

How do I step up my base game past just texture paints? I want my guys to look unique and heroic in exotic landscapes, posed on top of relics and shit, not just all walking across some Stirland mud.

Anyone got advice or ideas on how to make bases that will stand out?

>>51904467
I add chunks of cork and use them as rocks, it's simple but it adds a bit more to the bases

>>51904467
Do you have any sculpting skills? If so, let your imagination do the work! Otherwise, there's a lot of bases for same in different materials. You could also use those as inspiration if you sculpt your own. Just make sure to come up with a particular army-wide scheme.

>>51902001

You never did use a wash on the banner skin like you said you would a few threads back.

Is it acceptable to use dreadnought helmets (from the start collecting bundle) on your marines or marine captain

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I'm really new to painting, any tips?

>>51904540
The heads are Marine-sized, and don't have any impact on the rules, so why not?

>>51904503
>>51904508
Cheers anons, I'll grab some cork and try my hand at making some basic modelling putty stuff to throw down on them.

>start painting Kataphrons
>realize 80% of their surface will need Leadbelcher
>pain in the ass to paint by hand
WELP, time to buy primer and a Leadbelcher spray can. Not going to spend my entire week trying to cover every crack on those guys.

>>51904554
I'm fairly new too anon, what I'd do from there is throw down some highlights on the robes and maybe some kind of special effect on the metal arm, maybe some rust or blood?
That's how I've been improving, focusing on the basics and trying a new more challenging technique or effect on each model.

>>51904627
Thanks for the advice

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Refurbishing some eBay terrain. Can someone tell me how they burnt this much into the plastic? It was also hairy before I striped it down.

They also used indestructible unstrippable paint so I had to paint over the original paint.

>>51904596
Oh and another good tip is to make sure that "boring" bases will also fit in with the rest of your army, if you at some point decide to get lazy.

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My first one, still trying to fix him up, shading and shit but this is so far, how would you guys rate besides calling it shit?

>>51903090
Check out some late roman shields. They will have some designs you could use.

Is there a decent way to get, or easily make, good-looking capes that are compatible with the Custodes kit? I'd like the models if they came with capes as standard, but they look way too top-heavy without them, especially the Sagittarum Guard.

Still not sure why they decided to drop the capes, considering that they're a major part of the Custodes aesthetic.

>>51904238
Easily, for the Emperor has blessed me with intolerance.

Also I think the purple is a little too overwhelming currently.

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>>51903464
What about these miniatures? I can name some, like the Heavy is an Ogryn, the Spy is a Callidus Assassin, but I don't recognize most of the others.

>>51904609
Do you know how close the Leadbelcher spray looks to the brush-on version? I've heard that the Retributor Armour spray and pot versions don't match up too well, since one's apparently redder than the other.

It probably wouldn't make a difference after going over the spray with a wash, but just asking for future reference.

Ideas for Chaos spawn?
I will scratch sculpt them, as the official models are way too ugly for their price. I'll be running two units, one unmarked and one MoN, so I'll be keeping some theme consistant within each unit. Not too interested in the standard "just a big hulk of tentacles/limbs" look.

You think I could get away with casting Steel Legion infantry with Oyumaru?

>>51904741

When I add the gold trim to it, it will offset that. Also I'll probably decrease the intensity by blending in some dark purple over the highlights.

>>51904768
From what I've seen, it looks pretty close to the "original". Knowing my store, I'll most likely have to settle for the Army Painter version anyway, though most of it will either be washed heavily with Nuln Oil and a good part with some lighter metals. Don't think it'll be enough of a difference to be noticeable between my Kataphrons and the rest of my army.

>>51904761
>Sniper Squat
Why. Could've just made him a Vindicare.

Also, others are:
Pyro = Sororitas
Engineer = Enginseer
Scout = Space Marine Scout
Soldier = Cadian with Rocket Launcher
Demoman = Space Wolf
Medic = Death Korps of Krieg

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>>51904838
>Sniper Squat
He's a ratling.

How would you guys define "tabletop quality" for space marine models?

1. Base + wash plus details picked out.

2. 1 layer of highlights on armor plus details picked out

3. All the GW basic steps.

4. Strict criteria is irrelevant, as long as it looks good at arm's length.

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>>51904769
The official models are so bad. Like they just took a loosely humanoid body and tacked random appendages on, without really trying to make them look like they're a part of the model.

The FW Plague Toads would make great Nurgle spawn, if you're open to ideas other than making your own. Or if you do want to make them yourself, maybe try and make them look like mini-Great Unclean Ones.

As for standard Chaos Spawn, have a look at Forge World Sayl and Nightmaw kit for inspiration. If the generic Spawn looked more like Nightmaw (my favourite Spawn model to date), I'd have bought some long ago.

The metal Spawn released in 2002 was pretty cool too, if incredibly difficult to repose without having pro sculpting skills. Somewhat similar idea to the current kit, only much better level of detail and execution (at the cost of being more-or-less monopose).

>>51897590
Brilliant. I thought about doing a little 1000 pt ogre army for AoS. What's your list? Tyrant, Butcher, Gorger, some bulls and ironguts?

>>51897336
Nailed it. Armour and weathering and palette is spot on.

Not sure why you went for a round lip base. They look a bit ugly in my opinion, I guess its a matter of taste.

Should I paint the Imperial Space Marine model in Rogue Trader chapter colors and goblin green base and have one faggot in my army totally stand out, or should I paint him with the modern 40k chapter colors and normal base and blend in?

>>51904948
I loved the classic spawn! Wish I could find my old one to add in to one of the units.
Thanks for the reccommendations, they'll be good for inspiration even though I likely wont buy any (spawn does seem like the perfect unit to do my own stuff after all). Just need to decide on a particular theme for each unit to stick to. I'll also do at least one based around a marine spontaniously mutating into one, to use for spawnhood boons. Maybe use one of all those spare front-torsos and heads I've got, and have everything behind it look like it's bursting out backwards.

>>51904919
For just passable tabletop, probably 4.

For a "decent" level of tabletop quality, I'd say a combination of 1 and 2, as well as making a decent effort to concentrate the wash towards the recesses rather than have it pooling all over the armour (which tends to make SMs look kind of bad).

So, kind of like the results of the average full-length Duncan tutorial, without multiple stages for the highlights (i.e. closer to a lot of his quick tips).

>>51905057
Since you're apparently going to be running him as part of an army, I'd at least keep the base consistent with your other models. Whether you paint him in RT colours depends entirely upon which Chapter you're collecting though.

>>51904919

People have different standards for tabletop. I've seen people call models that look almost as good as 'Eavy Metal tabletop standard. Some people say a very good model isn't tabletop because it has no highlights (see some of FW's old official models).

For me I'd say level 1 is good enough. You have all the colors on, more than the 3 color minimum, you've fully based him, and you went to the effort of putting a wash in to add some texture or to fill the cracks and shadows.

If you're getting to the stage where you are highlighting or blending, to me that's above "tabletop standard". You're using slow techniques meant for display level competition pieces. Just because someone sucks at highlighting and his end result looks crappy or "tabletop" doesn't change the fact that someone who was great at highlighting would make an above tabletop level model if he started highlighting a tabletop level model.

>>51905162

I like the model so I'm always going to use him in one of my tactical squads. If the rules aren't allowed he'll just be a regular faggot or a melta gunner or something.

I play Carcharodons with black shoulders and white mouths but I wanted to put him in Space Shark colors where the whole guy is light grey with a red stripe on the helmet and maybe a shark mouth painted on his beak, or the yellow and black bramble camoflage Space Sharks had in RT.

Seems kinda pointless to do the throwback scheme without that GOBLIN GREEN base

>>51904919
Marines, especially loyalists, are the easiest models to paint to a good standard both quickly and with little skill. So there's no reason to paint them "just passable", unless you really really hate painting.
The bare minimum I'd do is base colours, wash, then another layer of base colour on the flat areas after washing. That should take very little time, and should be accepted as "tabletop standard" by anyone

>>51905186
well space marines honor tradition to a fault sometimes so maybe you should to.

>>51905273

Necrons are easier. But ironically it's harder to paint Canoptek and marines to a higher standard due to all the flat areas being a bitch to blend.

Anyone got any recommendations/advice for these kind of lamps with magnifying glasses on them? I think I need them because normal lamps aren't cutting it anymore than the ambient light is, if anything, having too much light is as bad or worse as ambient daylight.

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>>51905418
Pic related looks like the thing I'm interested in.

>>51905418

I know some good ones but they are pretty pricey (like $50-65 or even $99 and up).

The problem with this type of lamp is that they aren't cheap because

- It's a niche type of specialist lamp, not just an ordinary cheapo desk lamp
- They often don't come with daylight bulbs meaning more $$$ spending on your part
- You want a quality construction for the craning parts and especially the magnifier portion and not cheap shit

What kills it for me is the majority of these lamps clip onto or screw into the table. I rarely find a good one that has a stand base.

>>51905437

I find them fiddly. Most models run you 100$ or are 25-30$ and mostly wiggly trash.

Its hard to know how wiggly they are online, you might have to bite the bullet and go to a Staples/etc.

>>51903090
Sakura microns. Only way to fly. They don't make a white (to my knowledge), so to do your pic you'll want to lay down a coat of white first to draw onto.

>>51898432
I like the simplicity in it (no weird over complicated designs)
You've done a good job creating depth in the ridges on the horns and what I assume are the wraps on the legs.
Nice shading on the sword and rock.

Only constructive criticism I can really offer is there looks like a bit of clean up to be done where the leg meets her underwear.

>>51898432
I think the rock needs a bit more definition on the most prominent areas. It kind of looks like a deflated potato at the moment.

Not bad though.

>>51905502
Mmm, we don't have Staples over here (the shop, not the stationary). I think Maplin is the place to go then. Amazon's models are all in the ~20£ range anyway, so I would be wary of making a bad purchase there, even if it's not that much.

>>51905549
>>51905629
Cheers guys, i'll touch those up next!

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>>51905418
>>51905437
Has a built-in (but pretty bad) LED but really helps.
http://a.co/3jUYfIG

Any tips on choosing an army to paint? Actually torn between Warmahordes and the GW games but I don't know if I'm being jewed out by Privateer and those basic as fuck paint sets.

>>51905858

Army Painter has cheap paints but all miniature paints are pricey at the end of the day.

>>51904769
For my khorne themed army my chaos spawn are three chaos wolves on a single base. If I was a clever man when I built them I would have magnetized them on the base and used that for wound markers.

Instead of my juggerlord running with weird abominations he instead has a demonic wolf pack

>>51900352
Top tier reply.

>>51898630
>YOUR SCHEME IS RACISSSSSS
Is not a discussion. It's backwards virtue-signalling garbage from the modern race-obsessed left.

>>>/pol/
Get out.

>>51900352
I was under the impression Mongolian Horde adopted other cultures (they allowed every religion, and eventually completely adopted Chinese culture).

>>51903728
who runs..ork town?!

>>51906048
>>51906096
Holy shit, fuck off you two. The discussion is over.

>>51906117
Well, when there was anyone left, generally they realised after a few generations that wearing silk clothes and being fed duck spring rolls by servants with ornate mustaches was better than living off of blood pudding and uncleaned horse entrails while never washing your clothes ever.

The early Mongols also treated the Muslims very harshly. They went full pyramid-of-skulls mode in Baghdad and kicked the Caliph to death after he'd been wrapped in a carpet.

If there ever existed "noble savages", the Mongols were not them.

>>51903728
Great stuff.

>>51903804
Looks like World Eaters to me, but nothing's to say he couldn't have looted it in 40k.

>>51904981
Mongol OP here heres the list my man:
Tyrant
Butcher
6 ogre bulls
3 leadbelchers
3 ironguts
gorger
980 points

>>51906318
>I sincerely believe some people are on the same level as cartoon characters

>>51898163
Are those midgets. Truescale or gtfo.

>>51906680
>>I sincerely believe some people are on the same level as cartoon characters
Nothing I said was false. If you're implying that I said something I didn't, that serves no purpose.

>>51904658
Looks like a wonderful stray melta shot. Not sure if that is your repaint but it looks quite nice as is for terrain.

>>51906318
>They went full pyramid-of-skulls mode in Baghdad and kicked the Caliph to death after he'd been wrapped in a carpet.

That's tame compared to the shit Muslims do to their execution victims.

>>51904658
I imagine they had one of those wand-lighter things or ran the model over a candle.

>>51906975
>That's tame compared to the shit Muslims do to their execution victims.
Mongols did it.

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Progress thus far. How's the caramel look, is its colour too "passive" when compared to the metals?

So I'm starting up my Skaven Army and at the moment I've got Spire of Dawn, another unit of Clanrats, 20 unbuilt old style Clanrats and 10 unbuilt Nightrunners. I'm planning on converting the old Clanrats to Warplock Jezzails using Kroot Rifles. I want to expand my army with a Screaming Bell and a Warp Lighting Cannon and I know the most cost effective way to get these is the Start Collecting Pestilens box. I don't really want to run Plague Monks so I was wondering, does anyone have any thought on what I could convert them to or how I might do so?

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>>51903527

Knight anon approves!

>>51904658
After what happened to our guest bedroom's side table I can't help but see it as someone putting their straighteners down onto the terrain, then paintjob to make it look like battle damage.

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>>51904919

Id go with nr 4. I got a lot of remarks on /tg/ for using the good´ol snow flock, but never had any comments regarding the issue from real life critique. Things tend to show up a hundred times more detailed on camera than from an arms length.

>>51905164

Tabletop is a huge category, because there really isn't a category for work that isn't competition or display but is better than 'basecoat and wash'. If it isn't display or competition standard then 'above tabletop' is kinda meaningless, which is why I tend to say high / low effort tabletop.

>>51904919
Level 1 just hits tabletop standard (assuming non-shitty execution) for me, and only 4 could possibly exceed tabletop here.

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>>51906680
>I sincerely believe some people are on the same level as cartoon characters

Bah! He was a rank amateur compared to ... DOCTOR COLOSSUS!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8YBUmeJ7d8

>>51907202
>only 4 could possibly exceed tabletop here

4 is literally THIN UR PAINTS HOLY FUKKEN SHIT tier, because even those models look like what they're supposed to from tabletop distance.

>>51907102

That's because people aren't autistic enough to walk up to you and say your snow looks retarded. Literally looks like mold in teh places where it's thin and you can see each vertical strand of flock.

>>51906995

No fucking shit, idiot. And Muslims do even worse things than that.

>>51907297
4 can cover anything that looks good at arm's length though, which could possibly exceed tabletop standard. If you limit yourself to 1, 2, 3's categories it's not going to be above tabletop.

>>51907346

3 wouldn't go above tabletop standard? 'Eavy Metal has plenty of display standard miniatures that used nothing more advanced than basecoating, layering, washes, glazes, and highlights.

>>51904554

Yes, watch basic tutorials given for free from GW.
See, when I first started miniature wargames, a good 20 years ago, there was no help what so ever. No one had ever heard of the internet, and the only tutorials available was expensive book type of deals, which you had to go through the process of mail-order to get!

Nowadays though, you get all the tips and tricks you could ever want at the click of a button. So there is absolutely no reason what so ever to think you wont learn to become a better painter.

My advice to you, apart from looking up tutorials, is to come to an understanding that painting takes time and effort. There are no shortcuts to becoming better, only hard work.

>>51907382
If the GW basic steps covers actual glazing these days then conceivably, I was thinking of everything that my local manager could actually teach you with the painting levels they do now (which I think stop at a second level of highlights).

Nothing I've seen for the GW basic steps even thins paint enough for proper translucent layers, it's all line highlights and solid coats.

>>51907102
>year of our lord 10,000-7,983
>wearing a wrist watch

Also I don't think that flock looks very good but you're right about it not being noticeable at a distance.

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>got a extreme dire troll mauler
>put the pieces together
>mfw
Holy fucking shit all these gaps
I don't have any greenstuff /tg/
Help!

>>51907522
Not him, but there are plenty of places to work that mean you can't just check your phone, anon. I'm not re-sanitizing my hands every time I want to know what time it is.

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Does anyone know if WFB night goblin heads will fit on elf/human scale bodies? Got a bunch of them lying around and want to do some Renegades and Heretics conversions for 40keks, so thinking of taking them off, mounting them to robed human bodies, filing the noses and greenstuffing masks and facecloths to go for a Ku Klux Klan look like pic related.

Gonna need to cut or snap 'em off though, so want to know it'll fit before I destroy these minis' resale value.

noo thred
>>51907683
>>51907683

>>51897635

are you trolling or... ? shut the fuck up man its table top miniatures theres nothing racist about it

>>51901430
>So... I guess the question has now become "how do I not fuck up and physically ruin the model this time around, because I don't have any spares after this?"

Paint them in your base colour, darker wash and then use plastic/wood toothpick or some other thin needle like object to paint the small features. You take a little paint on the end of your "needle" and place it where you need it. It will look cartoony and won't be ideal but you can make eyes/nose to at least look somewhat like they were intended.

>>51907043
wait what! is it realy you? king sperg?