/wipg/ WIP in Progress - Painting, Conversion, Sculpting, Duncan

What's the best gold paint that isn't for airbrushing?

Assuming I can only find GW and Vallejo paints in local stores, are there any good ones among them? I've always liked GW metallics except the gold ones. But I mostly have the older-generation GW paints (some going all the way back to the bullet-shaped twist-top pots - I like that they're stackable, but they like to get stuck when paint dries in the threads).

>>50036904
I have two different GW golds (auric armour and the slightly darker base paint version) and they are alright, but the brighter gold isn't enough to highlight the base one. Maybe their new super bright gold is worth a look?

I've got some vallejo golds too, and I don't like them much. They look very yellow and it looks like glitter paint instead of a metallic sheen.

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>Duncan Rhodes General
you got that right op

>>50036904
Get the Vallejo airbrush colors. Their metallic range for airbrush is great. Even if you use them with a regular brush.

>>50036904
I like Vallejo Liquid gold a lot.

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Fuck eyes, seriously. I keep trying to paint eyes going off the 'eavy metal master class but I have no idea how you can consistently do that small of a detail AND angle the direction its looking at.

Half the time I try to have such a small tip, the paint won't even go onto the surface. The other half is when I go over it and fuck up a good face job.

How do you work with plasticard?

I'm an ork player and I want to convert meganobz/`ardboyz from vanilla nobz/boyz. How do you work with plasticard, can you bend it? Can I use any kind of plasticard? Is it easier to build armour or make a new boxy torso myself?

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The new Burning of Prospero sprues have alot of mold lines that needs cleaning D: Anyway, have a newly assembled custodes.

>>50036999
I don't do much with plasticard personally, but this youtube channel has a huge number of examples and tutorials of orky plasticard stuff

https://www.youtube.com/user/wazzoo2000/videos

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>>50037009

Quick question.

Will a "tabletop quality" paintjob ruin the resale of my Warmachine miniatures if I decide to sell later?

>>50037076
As opposed to "Paid commission" quality.

Basically I'm wondering if I should hold off on painting them.

>>50037076
Most people want to buy either pro-painted or not at all. It's just work to strip something that doesn't look A++

>>50037076
Isn't war machine mostly metal?

removing paint from plastic is easy, but removing from metal is even easier.

>>50037091
I've heard of people who will buy "pro painted" and then try to salvage to model to tabletop quality

>>50037076
>>50037082

any kind of painting (even putting the model together) hurts re-sell.

>>50037009
>>50037017
please tell me you aren't painting it with the cloak attached

>>50036968
>Even if you use them with a regular brush.
Better off painting them black and adding a white dot on both sides of the iris (or on one side if looking to the side). Easier than doing a black dot over white, imo.

Also, small brushes do dry before you get there. So you want a standard-sized brush that's new enough to have a fine point.

>>50037105
>painting them black and adding a white dot on both sides of the iris (or on one side if looking to the side). Easier than doing a black dot over white
Actually what the masterclass suggested but I might try a bigger brush, or some retardant.

>>50036968
I find its better to do no eyes than to do eyes poorly. You can barely tell anyways. Or do what I do and play Salamanders so all your guys have glowing red eyes.

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>>50037101
>>50037094
>>50037091
>People complain if I play w/ unpainted models now
>People complain that I painted the models later

Fuck this gay hobby

>>50037076
Warmachine is mostly metal stuff right?
Or has that changed?

If its metal the paintjob won't matter.

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>>50037102

>>50037120
just paint he models now, but strip the models before you sell them

>>50036999
>finally after half of an hour of googling I found this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kAKWgDFcXI

Hope it helps fellow ork players : a really nice step by step tutorial for meganobz conversion.

>>50037120
>>50037138
This. If you're not painting the models so you can sell them, then why have them in the first place? Metal is so easy to strip.

>>50037138
>Just cremate your own child
>It's cheaper

>>50037133
please don't

they're big enough that any missed parts will stand out hardcore

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>>50037148
No worries man, it's easily removeable.

>>50037120
Why are you buying models and then reselling them so often anyways? I don't mind buying painted models, especially if I can get them cheap. I just recently bought an AoBR dread for 13 bucks that looked like it had been primed black and partially painted blue. In reality it had been primed, painted, primed, and painted again. It was a bit of a project, but I managed to salvage it.

>>50037009
>not having helmets
why do people choose the butt ugly exposed heads on models? Seriously it looks stupid as hell and helmets look 1000x better. Also helmets are practical.

>>50037212
I like the head option, but I like the helmets more. Don't worry, he only lacks his helmet because in a squad of 10 I want my Shield-Captain to stand out.

>>50037212
Only units without helmets in my army are my space marine scouts.

>>50037222
>not giving the leader the most impressive hat
would not follow into battle/10

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>>50037241
Do you find this satisfactory?

>>50037269
much better

>>50037269
Hm, quite. I'd also put a led on it, if it was an actual model.

>>50037146
You should only be getting attached to a painted model if you're a skilled artist. Otherwise it's like caring about a rat fetus.

If you're only treating them as gaming tokens you believe you'll sell later, then just netlist and get those models, since you're obviously no in the game for the hobby aspect, so you don't care about what the models look like.

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Doing some basic basing this morning, any tips for getting more creative with infanty bases?

>>50037364
Infantry*

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Would this bit make sense for conversion? This is a part of vanquisher cannon, I want to turn it into killakan grotzooka.

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>>50037466

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My first attempt at a few Alpha Legion marines. I'm not too happy with how the base turned out though. It's Valhallan Blizzard over the older snow texture. Any suggestions?

>>50037489
I don't know why that uploaded sideways.

>>50037466
>>50037470
Waste of a boomgun or killkannon if you ask me.

>>50037489
I quite like it honestly. Looks like properly churned snow after a lot of marching and frantic maneuvers.

>>50037364

Alan Davies looks like the like the master of those Tyranids, surveying their advance.

>>50037559
That's a truly terrifying thought.

>>50037489

My advice is use snow sparingly, in smatterings on a base,

Yours doesn't look bad really

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Finally getting some work done on my Khador army. Im going to do the other half of the dragoon next then work on fenris. Im trying to make the base look like a steppe or tundra or something. How does it look?

>>50036968

You are supposed to do the eyes first, before you do the face.

>>50037489
Has anyone tried this scheme on vehicles? I'm wondering whether glazes work well on flat surfaces.

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>>50037191

Oh man, why do people do this to their models. I bought a chaos army off a guy quitting whfb when AoS came out and it was in hideous shape.

Some of the chaos warriors were primed black, painted red, primed white, painted blue etc. Some had been literally painted with liquid greenstuff (pic related).

But the general of the army, whoa nelly, there was a paintjob that would have made Duncan throw minis.

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>>50037766

Heres the chaos lord on foot... I do not know how you can pour this much paint on a single mini, but it had been primed, first white, then black, then painted almost completely green, then primed black, painted completely red, partially primed again and then had the gold, bone and other colours haphazardly slapped on top in thick globs.

It took me about two weeks worth of soap baths, nail polish remover and furious brushing to get this army cleaned up. But hey, at least it was cheap af.

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>>50037489
I've got this thing, if you want it.

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>>50036904
i fucked around with all those shitty glittery GW standard golds for ages and never found anything i liked, then i got that expensive high-pigment one they brought out for AoS- Retributor armour. it's a base coat, and one layer gives me a nice gold. pic related, the hook done with retributor.

What's that thing called when you have the model in sub-assemblies on pins so you can paint before finishing gluing it together?
BoP is my first box of minis

>>50037791

Really looks way too blue to me, Alpha Legion need those sexy green tones in the highlights.

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>>50037947
how bout this one?

>>50037970
This is the method I used for the ones I posted further up. I think it turned out quite well.

>>50037942
What thing do you mean?

A piece of wood with some bluetack on it so you can stick your parts on for painting?

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>>50037791
>>50037970

I like their new painting guide from the BoP guide.
That result looks way better than the metallic Forgeworld style. On the other hand i think MK 3 armor looks like shit for AL. Personal preference i guess.

>>50037678
I guess it's a good thing warmachine isn't known for well painted miniatures. Yours will fit right in with the unpainted or primed shit looking models.

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>>50038143
I'm not the guy you replied to but you could at least try to be constructive with your criticism instead of just saying 'i dont like it'

>>50038143
Wow! Cool, thanks for the constructive criticism and input. Because of you I will be able to improve in the future.

KYS

>>50038224
Another Anon here. I think they look good, but the light doesn't help.

>>50036999
Okay, so you go buy some plasticard from a hobby shop. Anyplace that sells models or train stuff. They usually have a rack of different shapes and thicknesses, you can browse and get a sense of what you need. I would advise getting a pack of plain sheets with multiple thicknesses, and a pack of assorted tubes/rods. They should be less than $5 each.

Generally you can cut plasticard like paper or cardboard. You'll want an x-acto type knife and a metal straightedge. The same glue for your minis will work with the card. You can pretty much just start cutting and playing with different shapes.

A couple tricks...

Orky rivets. Take one of those slender rods, and use your craft knife to cut tiny discs off the end. Press the blade down with your fingertip to keep the bits from flying off into space when they cut. To glue them on, I put a drop or so of superglue on a scrap of paper. Then pick up a "rivet" by poking it lightly with the tip of the x-acto knife, and dab it lightly on the bead of glue. Then just poke it into place.

Hydraulic piston gubbins are easy to make by nesting a pice of rod inside a larger tube.

>>50038270
Thanks for the tips dude. Have you tried bending it? Do you need to heat it up before it is capable of bending, or bending it is out of question?

>>50038260
I know, I need to make a lightbox. Ive been putting off starting (these are some of my first dudes) but today I finally got started. Ill see if I cant take a better picture.

Right, I'm trying to do this tissue paper cape thing I got linked yesterday and I thought it'd work but the superglue/tissue is not adhering to the packing tape. I'm clumsy, so I went through 2 tissues just trying to position it, so I'm not going to risk supergluing a bunch tissue on my models while I attempt this.

Why isn't it sticking? Why does it stick for everyone but me?

>>50038295
It has some bend to it. Thin sheets will bend like paper. Rods and tubes have to be heated to bend. Just a second or two with a lighter will soften it enough to bend under its own weight.
Insulated electical wire is often easier to use for creating tiny hoses or conduits.

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Am I a bad painter WIP? I feel like this could be way better considering some of the stuff I've seen on here.

>>50038403
Alright, last question: is it harder to paint then official GW models?

>>50037364
Alan Davies confirmed as swarm lord

>>50038422
well no, not to paint, but standard plasticard is lacking in all the detail that a GW model has, so if you want it to actually look like something you're going to have to carve the scratches, chain links, bolts etc that you'd expect to see on a model equivalent

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Genestealer Cult coming through!

First stages of weathering on the Goliath.

>>50038446
Fair enough. Does not seem that hard with orks in theory, just add chips and rivets everywhere)

Thanks for answering my questions.

>>50038415
Its pretty sloppy, but if you are just starting that is to be expected. Take your time and use thin layers so that it is easier to fix mistakes as you go.

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>>50038464
the hard part is in being creative enough. i ended up scrapping my attempts at doing up my orks

>>50038495
Tyranids are organic in every aspect smooth skin and carpace with lots of natural patterns and shapes (very few straight lines). Orks are very material using lots of metal and "man" made materials. Lots of straight edges and contrast. Tyranid bits look better as trophies or scenery. Same deal with Eldar. They are smooth and elegant, to counter it you need to use small quantities, maybe one feature part and then make the rest propah orky. Ork conversions are the best though so don't feel disheartened, just take some perspective and keep trying.

>>50038541
Best part about orky conversions is that you don't need to follow any rule. You need to think like a Mek. "I'll bolt some shit on here! and then stick this pipe out of there! Fuck yeah, gubbins!

>>50037678
>>50038224
I think they are not bad, but you could take the red up a notch and highlight it with something stronger.
Right now it lacks definition and seems very uniform. Up the contrast a little and these should look much better.

Like the bases btw.

>>50038559
>Fuck yeah, gubbins!
Sounds like a proper Deathskull clan member warcry!)

>>50038559
Yeah exactly. Kinda adds to my point, you need lots of random stuff to make it crazy and all bolted together.

I'd love to make an ork kill team after I've done my necrons. Dunno how viable killakans are or if they're even legal. (Are they even called killakans anymore?)

>>50038586
I did basecoat in Khorn Red, highlighted in Mephistion red, and did some shading that doesn't show well in the picture in Screamer Pink. Should I use Evil Sunz Scarlet or an orange for then next highlight?

>>50038224
>>50037678

They seriously need subtle orange edge highlights on the red for starters. Do that, then come back with a better picture.

>>50038387
Have been trying to get the tissue cape right for the past hour. Can't do it. Didn't even get to the PVA part. The tissue won't stick to the tape with superglue. It's also too absorbent to even stick to the MODEL directly with superglue! I give up on this shit, fuck capes.

>>50038598
They are legal in HoR Killteam, and they should be legal in vanilla KT (11 armour on front and sides, 10 on the rear, 2 hull points, 50 pts).

Orks are amazing because almost anything can work for their models and vehicles. I was working with wall plugs yesterday, then I thought to myself "hm, if you cut them and stick some gubbinz on them they'd look like powercells for orky energy weapons/generators". I've seen someone here making orky artillery from garden hose parts.

>>50038415

It's not terrible, it just need another 900 steps to get there. What's with the hair though, did you drybrush it?

>>50038541

The claws are actually made out of metals though, and the carapace armor they have is also made out of reinforced bone. Some of the books describe marines disassembling nids, I think in the horus rising trilogy Lucius the Eternal even uses a claw as an improvised weapon.

>>50038682
You're making me want to spend money! Post wallplug conversions!

>>50038714
I tried to, yes. I'm kinda still just starting.

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NMM its hard, first time trying this technique, wish me luck

>>50038820

Yeeaaaah, I'd avoid drybrushing. The rest looks good but the hair is a mess. You can fix it with a thinned black wash and some grey glazing to create proper shadows.

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>>50038740
Well, I obviously can't post any wallplug conversions, but since anon never dissapoints I'll post whacky orktillery conversions I've seen here.

>>50038827
looks alright so far

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>>50038740
>>50038843

>>50038843
>>50038858
Very cool indeed.

>>50038834
To clarify, hair *and* beard, or just hair? And how do you thin a shade, water right into the pot?

>>50038891

Both.

Use a palette, mix some water into your wash and go over most of it, maybe leave a little bit of the bright grey unwashed where you want the highlights to go.

>>50038731
That was not a tyranid though, it was some weird xeno race
>>50038495
eh, forgot to ask a fairly important question: what kind of thickness for a plasticard would recommend using when doing armour for models? I'm assuming it'd be thicker if I was making killakan bitz instead.

>>50038978

Right, it was the other hive mind insect race with rending claws.

>>50037970

I'm not the anon who posted AL in the first place, but I am working on a needlessly overcomplicated Alpha Legion paint scheme of my own at the moment. I'll post it later on when I've finished the next coat, but it'll be of no help to people looking for an airbrush-free approach.

I thought this tamiya clear spray was for airbrushes but does it just come in a regular spray can?
because that metallic red is gonna do wonders for my Thousand Sons

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>>50037715
>>50036968
It's best to do your face but to thin more than usual, and when youre done your face get your finest brush, draw a black horizontal line in the eye socket, then inside that black line draw a white line, and then put a black dot in the centre or where you want the mini to be looking

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Does anyone know what kind of shell the rapid fire battlecannon on a knight uses, is it a solid case, caseless, two part or what? I want to make a pile of ejected cases for its base.

>>50038843
Nice spark plugs boss.

Does anybody have any guides on MMM techniques?

Question for you guys. I'm doing a couple of Knights with green as my main color. I am doing a Caliban green base with wardrobe glow on top. I tried to shade the recesses with Biel-tan green, but that was pretty ineffective. I also have nuln oil, reikland fleshshade and the entire army painter shade range. Would any of those work better for shading over wardrobe glow?

>>50039637
Ugh autocorrect meant warpstone glow

>>50037364
Alan Davies' scornful verdict on your painting/10

>>50038458
Is this the "hairspray" technique? I've always been curious about that.

>>50038112
Is there a PDF/ePub available?

>>50039724
I have not seen one so far, but i didn't looked for long. The pic above is just a screenshot from gws store.

>>50039743
Ahh, pretty good photo, I assumed it was a screenshot

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>>50039724
Just go to the /hhg/ thread and ask for the Legion you want. They also have a little guide for eyes.

>>50037364
"I'm not a great painter but I do buy a lot of models. I'm Duncans' friend - I buy a hundred models a year and paint four."
- Alan Davies

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>>50039616
>Does anybody have any guides on MMM techniques?

Whenever the Skeksis find anything interesting, they go "MMM". Mimicking that might start you down the right path.

If you're looking for how to do Non-Metallic Metal, there are some tutorials in the CMON Ultimate Painting Guide, which you can find in the OP. They begin on page 55.

>>50039693

Yes Sir, it's really effective, I wish I had used a lighter brown for the under rust colour but the effect is great almost impossible to replicate with paint effectively

>>50039867

None of those schemes are too hot, desu. The three black schemes all look the same, as do the red ones. Everything is made to fit a base, wash, layer, highlight approach. There are much better ones out there.

>>50040080
Why yes, they're painting guides, i.e guides that beginners will folllw, not someone with say, ain airbrush and a knowledge of advanced techniques.

And yes they're not too hot, but I still don't see many people able to pump out models fairly quickly with such quality on these threads. And I say that as being someone who can't do that as well. So I guess their guide is justified.
Finally, it's supposed to accompany BoP in order to help newcomers to paint their newly chosen legion, so definitely for beginners yes.

>>50040080
find someone who wants to paint their 30k army with more than just base, wash, layer, and highlight (even though that guide goes beyond that IMO) and i'll show you someone who will NEVER finish their army.

>>50040137
>And yes they're not too hot, but I still don't see many people able to pump out models fairly quickly with such quality on these threads.
I don't even see many people who are able to paint models with that quality in these threads at all. some of them are close, but no cigar.

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>>50040175
>someone who will NEVER finish their army

Welcome to /tg/, anon. You just described everyone here.

>>50040175
>>50040200
Those are also very valid points.
30k being more prone to big points games, trying to use fancy techniques on anything lore than a centerpiece or a character is bound to be both useless and depressingly long.

At the same time, give me a simole but well painted army over a grey tide with one gorgeous character with advanced techniques used to paint it anyday.

Red Talons anon is the perfect example of why those guides, if followed, can give very good results. Anon painted his tactical squad simply, I mean I don't see anything too fancy in there, but it's done flawlessly, it's crisp, and on many units. An army painted like that is pure eye candy imo, even though no very advanced technisues were used, just simple ones that were completely mastered. If someone has the picture, feel free to post it btw, seems like I deleted it.

>>50040306
But you're a special case Johnny anon.

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>>50040363

>>50040393
these look better (especially as a unit) than anything that's posted in this thread with the exception of one or two really nice unique minis (kingdom death flower knight jackolantern anon comes to mind) that are posted each month.

>>50039973
I was referring to Mixed Metallic Metal techniques, but what a coincidence that I was in the middle of watching the Dark Crystal.

>>50040393
Good to see these guys again. Such a clean job. A clear case of mastering the basics before you jump to advanced techniques. Just a really solid job.

>>50040363
True.
There is nothing wrong with having simple guides.
Not everyone wants (or is able) to use advanced techniques.

>>50038843
I have a couple old spark plugs I just took out my bike. Was going to take them up the tip but this has given me some inspiration to use them for orky madness.

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Thoughts on using lots of shade instead of painting in eyes? I was going for an effect similar to the art style of Darkest Dungeon.

Yes, I know this looks like a meltmarine up close, but this was one of my first minis, and it doesn't look nearly as bad when not zoomed in 1000%.

>>50040655
Nah its good don't worry. Most people advise on shading eye sockets and leaving it at that instead of fucking up and giving your guys cartoon eyes.
Many fall on the face of googly eyes but not this one, not today.

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>>50040655
I'd rather look at shaded eyes than having bad painted eyes on a otherwise well done mini.

It will ruin everything. Pic related. These soldiers look goo, but their eyes ruin it.

>>50040655
I do the same thing, shit's fine man no worries. Show us your entire guy no zoomed in :)

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>>50040809
Sure, here's my BA termie sergeant.

>>50040137
>>50040175
>>50040200

The question is not one of using 'advanced techniques'. GW themselves have numerous different schemes for various shades of red, but they use the same recipe for all three legions in that painting guide. I know that we're not going to see GW proper showing transparent paints or much in the way of weathering, but part of the appeal of those methods is that they're quicker and easier to get a nice result from than edge highlighting.

>>50040393
>>50040363

That's a beautiful result, but that crispness takes a lot of skill to achieve. The quality of the examples in the painting guide isn't down to them being inherently good schemes, but down to an excellent painter and decent photography.

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Taffy 3 is almost ready, not highlighted, based, or touched up.

Okay not almost ready...

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I picked up a box of Kanz because they're cool, and then I somehow managed to run into a copy of Stormclaw so now I have a second set. This is is the latest I finished, number 5. I wanted to make him GRK-y but I haven't quite found the means besides painting GRK on the sign between his legs. Any clever ideas?

>>50039637
Does anyone have advice for a wash from this post?

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I'm thinking about layering some heavy black ash onto the leading edges of the wings for this one. Any citadel textures that might accomplish that?

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Does /wip/ like Commissars?

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How to do that 'martian dust on coat' effect /tg/?
Btw it's muh first painted mini.

>>50041438
If you are looking for how to do dusty cloaks, follow this tutorial
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVx62P6LLPg
If you want a martian coloring, switch the colors out for an orange-brown like squig orange.

>>50041501
Duncan, you sexy tip-a-day fucker

>>50041501
Can i use ryza rust for that?

>>50041689
It would look weird on a non-metallic, but I don't see why not. You'd probably be better just using a regular paint of the same color, though.

>>50040175

Hoarding IS the hobby, everything else is just an excuse to buy more miniatures.

>>50041411

Don't even play guard but I collect commissars.

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>see some primed models sitting in my box from awhile ago
>wonder why they haven't been painted
>fucking moldlines going all across the model
>mfw
I think I'm gonna paint them anyways just for practice since they're getting stripped soon anyways

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>>50037764
Not him, but here's mine so you can imagine what it look like

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Working on the fun/ loading deck of the kill krusha super heavy tank.

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>>50041955
Grot loader doing his thing.

>>50041955
>>50041974
I post from the land down-under.

>>50038598
Killa Kans are heavy support, and so can't be taken in GW's Kill Team rules. Orks get fucked over hard in GWKT.

Except for fast attack. You like warbikes right? You'd never make an ork list that didn't have warbikes, right?

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>>50041411
>>50041884

Can't blame you. Those minis look great on the table.

>>50041974
>Where da boss sez WAAAGH and shootas thunda.

Damn, that's ded fucking sexy.

>>50039249
Considering the knight model has no eject port cases, i'd say caseless.

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Custom inquistor

>>50041910

I don't get this attitude, why not just do it right the first time. How else are you going to learn.

>>50042245
That's rather pretty, where's the model from ?

>>50042290
Body was a Callidus Assassin, the head and feather-thing was a model from Kingdom Death (Fade 2 if anyone cares) weapons are from the deathwatch kit and the robo baby is from the space marine liberian

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>TFW the only camera you have is a shitty phone camera
>And it's 7PM so the only light available is too-bright artificial light

ANYWAY, here's the bottom half of a Kataphron

The first model I've painted in about, ooh, eight years? I guess I cheated a little because I followed the Eavy Metal guide, but even so I'm really proud of it!

>>50042262
they were some of the first models I put together when the only things that I thought mattered were prime your models and thin your paints.

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>>50042154

>>50042245
Rather cool, but looks a little less than human. Can we get a better angle? Lower and more straight on.

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>>50042454

>>50037120
>Buying models just so he can sell them later

Literally why, you will never get your money back unless you bought the models crazy cheap and find a sap down the road to buy them.

Just buy them and paint them for yourself, if you're desperate to sell them just strip them later and be sure to use super glue so people know they can take the models apart if they wish.

>>50042403
Good effort Anon, keep it up.
Don't forget to weather the threads a little, as I doubt the Mechanicus has many showroom fresh bots left.

>>50042551
Thanks! That means a lot

The treads are actually little grubbier than they look. They were painted leadbelcher on black, washed with nuln oil, then drybrushed with necron compound and washed with agarax earthshade

The lighting in my room is just horrible

>>50042573
Even with good light metallic paints are an absolute pain to photograph.
You get all kinds of weird interactions between the light and the translucent washes on top.

Does plastic glue work on primed plastic or do I need to use super glue?

>>50042661
Both kinds of glue work better with unpainted plastic.

you are going to glue paint on paint, so the bond is only as strong as the paint.

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>>50038827
Progress

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>>50038978

Damn, it's been a while since I bought plasticard...I think I mostly used around 0.020" for armor chunks.

You generally want it thick enough that it doesn't feel like a razor blade if you make a pointy bit out of it. Thinner for sheets that you want to sit flush, or wrap around corners and such.

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>>50038559

>you convert a model to be orky the same way a Mek would do it. You just start attaching plates and gubbinz and stuff, and when it looks orky enough you stop.

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>>50038495

Oh man, those giant claws would work great as the horizontal rails of a roll cage type thingy.

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>>50040655
>similar to the art style of Darkest Dungeon
I don't think I've ever seen anything with such extreme shading executed well in 3D. But based on your pic I don't think that's what you're really trying anyway.

To add my voice to the chorus of anons, no eyes/shadows are better than bad eyes. Just pretend everybody is squinty like pic related. At tabletop scale it's not even really a problem anyway.

>>50042708
Let's say I'd like to paint my guardsmens bodies before attaching the arms.
What should I use to prevent primer from getting on the contact points for the glue?
Masking tape, blutac or anything similar?

>>50043331
>Masking tape, blutac or anything similar?

both will probably work. Or you could scrape the paint off the joints with your knife after painting.

>>50043331
both of those options work, liquid mask is another option.

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>>50038458

Goliath more

>>50038415
you spent so much time on it...

>>50039973
KEK

>>50043446
holy titties, that rust is amazing

Anybody has the burning of prospero painting guide yet? Would like to know if its good.

>>50043746
it's very basic, have a look in the Horus Heresy general

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>>50042403
Step 3 and 5.

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This is my first vehicle that isnt a rambling pile of scrap metal, AKA an ork vehicle.
It is pretty close to being finished. I just need weathering and some more decals.
How does it look so far? Thoughts? suggestions?
Gonna try a mud/snow weathering technique from the how to paint tanks pdf

So I'm a sucker and bought the GW super glue to see how good the brush applicator is. Started to gum up so I was wondering if they're bad and this is considered why or if there is a fix for it.

Second, is edge highlighting really neccessary for Dark Angles? The bright edges look so out of place to me.

>>50043446
How did you do the rust?

>>50043948
Go over each rivet with some nuln oil it makes it look alot nicer. Duncan shows it in his chimera video.

>>50043949
>The bright edges look so out of place to me.

Don't use a color that bright then.. be more subtle

>>50043966
I'm assuming either the hairspray or liquid acrylic techniques.

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Sup /wip/

I've been working on some carapace vets for my Renegades and Heretics using the Genestealer Neophytes; do these look armoured/chaosy enough do you reckon?

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>>50037489
It's too clean. Snowy fields turn to shit-pits quickly if big, heavy guys stomp around in it. At least tint it a little with some washes.

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Hi /wip/, colourblind anon here. Working on a corsair contingent for the eldar hybrid army. I saw the sisters of silence and thought their armour looked kabalite-esque on the legs while retaining a more ordered appearance elsewhere. So does it look corsair enough?
I've used the same wood elf heads on my corsair prince and void dreamer but I'm worrying it doesn't look eldar enough with everything being non-eldar components.

>>50044551

Holy shit, it took me a good ten seconds to notice that was bases on a Sister of Silence. Yeah that looks great!

>>50044551
Super awesome

>>50044221
Right looks very chaos, left looks mildly chaos but at least not particularly GSC/skitarii/imperial.

Paintjobs can make all the difference, too.

>>50044551
FRAMED BOOB PLATES

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I've got some Tanith First and Only to paint up - Anyone got tips for painting black fatigues? Or any for camo? I always struggle with camouflage on small figures.

>>50044353
I totally get what you're saying, snow gets pretty brown and yellow and horrid. Those would look a lot better if the bases had been painted white or maybe even brown first.

>>50044578
>>50044604
Big load off my mind! Got 6 squads of the sisters to make these so I'm glad I'm at least on the right track with it. Doing 3 squads in venoms so I'll do one squad with Kabalite fixings, one with Harlequin, and one with Guardian bits.
>>50044712
If you give me a good way to fix it I'll happily change it, it's my least favourite element of the model.

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>>50043993
Like this?

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Accidentally started a new army over the weekend, what do you think?

I rebased these from 25mm bases, they look so much better on 32mm bases it's mad.

>>50043688

Thanks!

>>50043966

The process began with hairspray weathering and the weeping rust is a combination of wet pigment paint, dabbing with foam and pigments again

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>>50044981
And some meat shields to hide important things behind. I have an already built Vindicator around somewhere - any tips on making it a bit more Nurgle?

>>50044730
I missed out on a box of them on ebay a while back. I have a Gaunt, but not the rest.

>>50045035

How long ago? It might have been the box I won...

>>50044845
Noice. Now I think you should darken the tank treads, they just seem too fucking shiny for something that should be trundling around. And good work on painting the little visor thingy on the front. Looks good!

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Home sick so I'm working on some bones backlog, thoughts?

>>50045107
The flesh looks great, and the diamond is really cool. I feel like the talons and scales could do with something to make them pop a little more - perhaps a wash to accentuate the light/dark difference?

Overall though, very nice

>>50045107
Well done.

While i love how you painted that crystal/ice shard, i think you should have picked a different color but blue since the whole mini already is blue. Just for some kind of contrast

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How did I do WIP?

P.s. please forgive messy worktable

>>50045130
In person the ice is a bit darker than it is in the pic
>>50045126
i'm going to try a little wash to see what i get

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>>50045016
make the bases more gross

>>50045170
Looks like its coming along well. Black is really hard and I imagine that suit as being like one of those bondage latex suits. Wash her hair and then give it a good highlight! I can't wait to see how you highlight it.
Just an idea but grab some old piece of electronics and take out the circuit board, take off any of the big parts jutting off it and break off a piece roughly the size of her base and use it as a sci-fi esque flooring. Just use a craft knifte to pop her off the base and put it under her. Or put some like sand or kitty litter on her base but do something. (of course prime it white or black and paint it up, don't just lop it on there)

>>50045301
Photo is shitty quality so it doesn't show off the hair 100%.

I based it with Khorne then washed with Mournfang brown and drybrushed with Wazdakka Red and finally washed with Argax.

I think it turned out nice for a ruddy red colour, what would you have done?

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WIP Kreoss

>>50045354
FIlthy self reply,
I would provide more pics but i'm not at my workstation RN

>>50045261
I kinda like the idea that these have only just started the process of turning the world they've landed on into a steaming pile of pus.

I like the goo on that base though, how was it done?

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>>50045380
WIP Crusader

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>>50045394
Everything Else i'm working on under my new Daylight Mag Light

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>>50045391
same way duncan does it in his videos. base layer of that really dark green, i think its called caliban green, then two or three thin layers of nurgles rot, and a coat of 'ardcoat over the top.

>>50045445
Might give that a go at some point, sounds easy enough.

>>50044551

Yeah it looks great, face is a bit... odd, feral but guess it adds to the corsair look.

Also, don't worry, the model really is grey.

Will using Simple Green to remove paint mess with greenstuff?

How does one do mud weathering on a tank with just drybrushing?

>>50045613

Unsure but Dettol (the British equivalent) will make the greenstuff come right off.

>>50045654
Sorry, I meant I'm trying to remove paint but not greenstuff off a model.

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>>50045354
Maybe this helps. Your picture is pretty blurry so maybe you actually did this with the hair. I think you have some gold on the gun that needs to be cleaned up and darker brown would be helpful. You did a good job though anon c:

>>50045060
About a month ago. It went for about £12 on ebay.

>>50045674

Oh right, yeah it'll take the greenstuff off along with the paint.

>>50045906

You can still buy them on the GW website, I hate the people who list them as OOP on ebay so goddamn much.

>>50045961
I didn't even know this. Thanks m80

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Hows it look now?

>>50045906
Yep, that's the one! Its gone to a good home, promise.

>>50042235
The rapid-fire battle cannon does have an eject port though

>>50046256
Snazzy

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>>50036742
I present to 4chan, a centurion i made because fuck-it-why-not struck hard

How long does it take to "getgud" at painting miniatures? I wanted to experiment some paint jobs on my gunpla, but I'm spooked about wasting 20$ and having a shit p aint job. Is it something you could marathon over a week and have some big improvement or does it take months to years to begin to paint decent kits?

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follow up to >>50045107

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Ok, so I tried the wrapped carbine properly, now with paint. It's a rough test so I didn't care about how good the paintjob was. Literally just sloshed green, black liner pen and a quick layer of devlan mud (still have those blessed pots!).

Top one is thin fabric. Bottom is medical gauze. Both stuck to the gun with superglue, painted with leather and given a quick dab on devlan mud. I legit can't choose, they both look great I think. Fabric loooks like filthy cloth, gauze looks like vines. Since I'm playing a jungle theme, either works.

Extra tip: I can possibly flock the gauze/vines a bit.

>>50046922
All that work, leaves mold lines...
Honestly it's pretty stupid, the head couldnt even turn.

>>50046256
Noice

>>50046922
...

Are you sure that's not an ork dreadnaught?

>>50046971
looks like they took a dump on the weapon

which to be honest, is about all inferior tau "technology" is good for

>>50046971
top one doesn't look too hot. The bottom one is far better.

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>>50036742
Spending part of my Halloween on actually starting in on grimdarking up this beast

>>50047158
Rude.

>>50047190
Yeah, I'm liking the vines. Looks very on-the-fly, something I expect a jungle operator to do.

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>>50047288
Dremel tools are so much damn fun

>>50044221
>tfw had same idea
Im just waiting for stprmcast heads to come so I can make them tzeentch looking

>>50047288
>a doll house for corteaz
that's actually really cute

is 40k juts putting rules to slightly more manly dolls?

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Hey guys working on some Valhallans.

Bit of background, theyre based on a unit I ran into in an only war campaign. Theyre a plucky group I ended up leading for a bit that was accidentally issued bright red coats, so before you ask, thats why theyre red.

Problem is I'm having a hard time figuring out what to paint their helmets. I'm thinking either a dark grey or a dark and heavily washed gunmetal color. These guys are still in the base coat phase, so I've got a bit before I need to commit to the colors, just curious what you guys think would work.

Any suggestions besides thin your paints, I'm working on getting the next few coats on to get them clean looking

>>50047598
Goddammit my phone reverted to super big ass picture resolution mode, I'll fix that before I post another picture. Sorry about that.

>>50038143
Critiques without showing his own skills or some examples, or even any fucking advice. Ya, your a cunt

>>50037908
Seconded for Retributor Armour. I spent years using other Citadel gold paints with shitty results, then when Ret. Armour was released everything was magically better. I've not looked back since.
>inb4 shill

It's genuinely a very good metallic paint.

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>>50047288
>>50047303
Genius. Sheer genius.

I can't believe I'm asking, but do you have any more info on that doll house?

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Nebulanon from last thread here, took a stab at trying it out on the aethersail. I'm reasonably happy with the starfield pattern, but the glowy gubbins on the sail need more work.

>>50048161
noice, I like it.

>>50036742
>Those mould lines

But muh finecast is supposed to be better quality than metal!

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progress onmy burning of prospero bases. give me advice.

>>50047931
Glad you like it.My girlfriend was getting rid of a bunch of old toys and I mentioned distressing the building and turning it into terrain and she said not only was she behind it, she'd help me paint it too.

It's apparently from a whole line of buildings called Sweet Streets, with this one being the Hotel.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fisher-Price-Sweet-Streets-Hotel-8-99-/162234409011?hash=item25c5eca033:g:osYAAOSwvg9XeZ1~

How long does a can of GW spray paint last for basing?

I found a 6 foot long plank of wood and rubber cemented about 30 dudes on it to spray paint and I plan on spraying them tomorrow, but will I run out before I'm done?

How's this look for a counts as combi-melta? Will be made flush, ofc

I figured shooting a big spinning drill would be a decent proxy as a single use weapon.

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>>50048555
Quick, find the retard!
It's the guy who forgot his picture

>>50048551
I have a can of GW spray that I used to base coat 25 dudes, 6 jetbikes, 2 raiders, and a venom and its still kicking. You should have plenty.

>>50046256
Nice! Anon, as the Ig player who's sky blue dudes' paint is too thick, I have to say, this is solid work. I kinda enjoy chimeras that have a bit of a gradient but are a solid color for the most part.

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>>50048545
Excellent. Good to know.

I sent this to a friend and member of our gaming group who's also in a DD/lg relationship, and she laughed and laughed and told me she was going to build one too. "Barbie's Grim House"

>>50048566
It looks really cool as a bayonet thingy like in gears of war. I don't see it as a melta stand in though.

>>50048711
Glad I could help.
Also, if she ever makes that house, you should totally post pics.

Sitting here waiting for paints to dry, drinking a martini.

>>50048919
Are you paining slaneshii models?

>>50048566
I'm not feeling it man

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>>50048891
Will do!

>>50048930
Kasrkin suprisingly

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pretty inexperienced painter here, what colors should I be washing the rivets/studs on the black carapace? and what about the averland sunset shoulders? can't figure out whether I should be using agrax earthshade or seraphim sepia.

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Having alot of fun with capturing some 70's colors on these newer ships.

>>50048555
>>50048566
Nah son.

Melta weaponry fires at like volcano temperatures, man. Melta's even a play on words for melting/melter.

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>>50049434
>>50048566
I suppose if you were good enough to somehow paint them as glowing white-hot blades, then it might work, but otherwise... you've just got a really kick-ass bayonet.

Also, sculpting a melta barrel is trivial.

>>50049321
What color did you do for black? Normally you would use Nuln Oil for that. For the Averland Sunset, use Reikland Fleshshade.

>>50048256
Nice, but also seems like it might be a bit much. Might want to do more of middle base with the flat tiles, with just a bit of the texture stuff on top as loose gravel.

Also kinda hard to tell how it'll turn out since it's all unpainted. Nice scratches on the glass though.

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My first 30k dude! Lots more to go now.

>>50049556
wheres this from?

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Am I properly prepping for paint priming?

>>50049556
What would be better for painting heat discoloration, shades, thinned paints, or those colors in metallic?

Bought some used models that have an enamel paint on them.

Can I strip them like acrylics?

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First models of my 1ksons burning of prospero force. just a basecoat so far and some more work on the bases.

How do I fill in shit that doesn't sit right together when I'm super fucking shitty with green stuff?

Examples are the fucking dark eldar shoulder pads.

>>50050012
Liquid green stuff if the gap is small enough.

>>50050045

Probably a stupid question, but how does that work? Is it just really runny putty?

>>50050052
more like a really thick dry paint

>>50050059

Like peanutbutter?

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>>50046922
>They say... it was called a "Dark Raven"...

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I want to paint my SoB something different, but I haven't been able to decide on a scheme. Awhile back, someone suggested pic, related in the 40k general after I said I wanted to try a red armor.

I don't really want to go with it because my current scheme is silver armor and red robes.

Any suggestions? I'm terrible with colors.

>>50050199
Do a ceramic white like dawnstone and a light brown for the armor, contrasted with a really bright gold finish for the filigree and do the red as brown as you can find. Like brick red practically. Then use darkreaper or some shit for the robes. Simple.
I like the concept pic btw.

>>50050066

I'd compare it to toothpaste. You can spread it with a brush, but it's viscous enough that it doesn't really drip or flow.

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>>50050243

I like that its different because I've never seen 2 tone on sisters before, but the silver is what I was trying to get away from. See Pic related. On the right is my current scheme, and the left is a quick test model.

For the colors, do you mean split the armor colors, or is the ceramic for the robes?

>>50042754
Alright, I guess I'll have to experiment myself on this one, thanks for tips dude!

>>50050290
The ceramic looking bits should be the pale grey/brown, just highlight with whatever, then do metalic for the fancy bits.

It goes without saying that you can paint the cloth and power armor like normal, blending a bit on the cloth, and doing blending/high lighting the plate armor as you see fit.

Also washes are going to be your best friend. There is so much detail there in that picture that COULD be, if you only united the colors on that model with a wash. Re highlighting is gonna have to happen after that, but thats all part of the plan.

Also, if your trying to avoid silver, just use more gold. Nothing bad about gold.

>>50049709
Saint Duncan has a tutorial on heat.

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>>50050411

Well, that one is like 7 years old at this point. I didn't know about washes then. That being said, I'm still not a master, but I think this one turned out better.

Iirc, the robe was based mechrite foundation, highlighted in blood red, washed with a red wash who's name escapes me (Baal?), and then highlighted again. The rest of it was washed in devlin mud I think, especially the face.

It's been awhile since I painted, though. My paints are all dried up, which is finally my excuse to switch things up.

Which parts are supposed to be the ceramic looking bits?

>>50046971
I'm going to combine rude and adequate answers: top one does look like someone took a dump on it(sorry anon), while bottom looks decent, great even.

Anyone used Vallejo weathering paint?
I bought the snow and 3 hours later and my snow is still anywhere dry. Is that normal?

>>50049633
Good job on the mould lines but drill those barrels!

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>>50050891
Thanks and I will still waiting on my Pin Vice to come in the mail. Plus they are not even attached yet because it will be easier to paint. I really want to make this a great looking army.

>>50048161

The only thing bad about it is the super large blobs, they've lost shape. Maybe you can glaze down the edges of those a bit to make them look like super bright stars of tremendous size?

>>50049321

On black, I usually do my rivets in boltgun with a touch of platemail on top followed by any cleaning up of the black, then use a black wash to bring the shine down.

>>50050623
Sweet, local friends telling me the same. Everybody preferred the cloth at first but nobody likes it after painting. Gauze it is! Now I can get started

>>50047598
very cool usage of these russian bodies.

>>50048161
Thin you paints, add some glaze to the larger stars, darken the edges between the nebula and dark space. Still looking good though.

Help me please WIP.

The new metallics from Citadel are TERRIBLE for me.

For silver, I am blessed I have a near full boltgun metal from the old black top pots in great condition.

What should I do for Gold though?
Auric just takes a load of coats and has terrible pigmentation.

UK and happy to order online.

>>50051526
Auric is shit in my experience, but the base golds are fine. Balthazar, Gehenna, etc.

>>50051526
Some of those metallics are supposed to be used as highlights not as a base paint. I think auric gold is the one that is basically a light dry brush. (I might be wrong). I think you've just picked the wrong ones in the range. Also maybe the paint has already unmixed. Make sure you shake the crap out of the pot or put something to help mix it in. I usually find metallic colours are the easiest to use with no need for multiple layers.

>>50051545
I agree, my friend has had no problem with them... but their colour is way too dark for the trims of my space wolves and the Custodes.

>>50051556
You're probably right, it is a layer.

>>50049633
Cut thoise nails man.

>>50051611
Also I know it's really down to personal preference, but if you haven't already then you should look at buying Vallejo game or model colour paints instead.

You can get them from a lot of places online. They are cheaper than citadel paints, in a better container (drop bottle) which I find makes you waste less and gives you more control for quantity mixing. They also don't dry out as fast. The only trade offs are p&p and not supporting your LGS. I find them a lot easier to work with.

>>50051641
Just ordered some Glorious Gold Game Colour.
Thanks anon.

>>50051759
No worries. I will point out for Vallejo there are usually a variant for game and model called 'Air'. Obviously this is designed for use with an airbrush and comes pre thinned (just incase you didn't notice). Most of the 'Air' range can be used with a brush to get really thin layers and make colours much brighter without creating cake models. It sounds like you don't need that right now though, but maybe something to consider in the future if you like your purchase.

>>50051526
Retributor Armor is probably the single best product GW has ever released.

Apart from Juan Diaz titmonsters

>>50050906
Fair enough! I'm always too worried about the plastic glue ruining the paint job so I just leave all my guns on, though i do regret building my BaC chaplain as getting to the cloak was a pain

>>50051641
>>50051814

Two other alternatives from Vallejo:

The Liquid Gold range is fantastic. Wonderful flow, unbeatable coverage (a single coat is all you need), incredible shine. Comes in a whole range of golds too. The only downside is that it's alcohol based, so you need a dedicated brush and cleanup is a bit of a hassle.

If that's too much of a nuisance, their Metal Color range is the superior acrylic metallic paint. It's designed for airbrushing, but you can use it the old fashioned way. Very fine flake, much smoother than other metallic paints, and cleans up with water. Only one shade of gold though.

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>>50049407

That's impossible, even for a computer!

Please help I really want to paint these new minis

Any tricks for getting enamel paint off a model?

I could probably paint over it if it wasn't so glossy.

Can I just prime over if or will that really ruin the details?

>>50052597
What minis are you talking about?

You could try to strip the paint off, but for enamel you'd need some strong(er) stuff than for acrylic.

Depending on how thick (or thin) the paint is, priming over it might work.

Show us a pic or describe what you are talking about.

>>50049407
what is wrong with your reds?

>>50048256
where do they stand?

>>50052757
>What minis are you talking about?
>Show us a pic or describe what you are talking about.

My camera is pretty shitty but they are used Assault Marines and a Jump Chaplain.
They are really glossy.

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>>50052813
wow forgot my pic

>>50052826
The caplain should be metal. Drop him into acetone or similar stuff and the paint is gone.

For the plastics you could use dettol or simple green, but it might not be enough for enamel.

>>50052842
Don't forget to remove the base.