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/wipg/ WIP in Progress - Painting, Conversion, Sculpting, Duncan

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Thread replies: 327
Thread images: 95

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Let's do our best edition!

>>Citadel Painting Guides:
>https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here
>>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
>http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart
>>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
>https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ
>>Painting Videos only
>https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
>https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
>https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA
>>DIY Lightbox
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw [Embed]
>>How to Moldlines
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU [Embed]
>>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo [Embed]
>http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
>http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/
>>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
>http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg
>>Stripping Paint
>http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...
>>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
>http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf
>>I am the hammer! I am the point of His spear! I am the mail about His fist! I am the bane of His foes!
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjaYW5Cnr5k [Embed]
>>
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>>50014295
Reposting my shit because it took me almost six month of people telling me to kill myself and thin my paints to get to this point.
>>
anyone scan the new paint guide yet?
>>
>>50014406
Looks proper Nurgly to me, nice work Anon.
>>
>>50014406
those are some sweet death guar-
>using the really old missile launcher from the ancient snap fit marines
the best death guard I've ever seen.
>>
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Just finished the 3rd character (dwarf) for a SoBH warband. Pretty happy with how they are turning out.
>>
>>50014432
seconding this
>>
>>50014501
>the really old missile launcher from the ancient snap fit marines

About time someone noticed! Thank you and good job.
>>
>>50014406
that is damm good, anon! Nurgle is proud!

How'd ya make that sweet-ass metal color? brass?
>>
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If I wanted to convert Deathwatch marines to 'regular' marines (mostly for scale and bits), would I be able to putty over the writing on the left arm without it looking retarded? Or should I hit up eBay for marine left arms?

Probably going to use Kill Team Cassius.
>>
>>50014406
That bike is the absolute coolest shit. What bit did you use for the ram skull?
>>
>>50014406
>it took me almost six month of people telling me to kill myself and thin my paints to get to this point.

You learn fast.
>>
>>50014659
>>50014680
> What bit did you use
Ram skull is a banner from the ogre bull box, if i remember correctly.

>>50014659
>that sweet-ass metal color? brass?
Using mostly Vallejo colours. It's Tinny Tin with a wash of Nihilakh Oxide, finished up with some more Tin, Hammered Copper and Polished Gold.
>>
>>50014620
it is a very distinct part if you are familiar with it, but not many are. They stopped selling those kits over ten years ago if memory serves.
>>
>>50014406

Tough love best love, good job
>>
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>>50014620
>really old missile launcher from the ancient snap fit marines
>About time someone noticed! Thank you and good job.

Seconded.
>>
>>50014406
Super cool! I like that they're not all oozy and shit like all other Nurgle armies.
Captures the feeling of decay real well!

Though why is the lord's bike wheels so pristine?
>>
>>50014674
As long as you make sure it's smooth I cant see any issue with that. Might be worth filing down the writing before you do it perhaps.
>>
>>50015430
Right, kinda figured. Thanks, bro.
>>
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Reposting this guy's first and last time.
>>
>>50014542
absolutely gorgeous. You've done a masterful job with these. The amount of character that bob olley's sculpts for essex have is insane
>>
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Had a game with them today, they killed a lot then got mauled by genestealers.
Was basically a multiplayer star ship troopers themed kill team with some house rules
>>
>>50014406
I fucking love that not-doomrider and the zombies scatter about your guys, adds great character. Good job
>>
something is wrong with my airbrush

the paint was coming out in spurts rather than a smooth stream like usual (I am using a compressor with a tank)

and towards the end of the session I was getting backflow even without blocking the tip

do I need to clean it better? or is it a symptom of a ruined tip? I am still very new to airbrushing
>>
>>50015799
So bored of them.
>>
>>50015904
It sounds like you've got a bit of clogging going on.
Usually the easiest solution is to disassemble the airbrush and thoroughly clean all parts individually.
I usually use proper airbrush cleaner when I'm doing this, along with a pile of cotton swaps and miniature pipe-cleaners to get into nooks and crannies and pull any paint residue out of the brush.

Sometimes it builds up in places where you do not expect it.

I know my Harder & Steinbeck brush gets paint build-up between the trigger and the paint cup for some reason (probably me releasing the trigger wrong), and I need to clean that regularly or it'll start acting really funky, going to far as literally gluing itself stuck on 1 occasion.

It's unlikely to be the needle or the nozzle, but that's easy enough to spot, get a magnifying glass and inspect the nozzle, if you're seeing nicks, small tears or dents in the metal then it's time for a new nozzle.
And the same goes for the needle, is the tip still straight, are there any nicks in the metal?
Unless you physically dropped either on a stone floor or banged the nozzle into a wall that's not a likely scenario though.
>>
>>50015995
a repost is better than a dead thread
>>
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>>50015831
i love those valhallens anon, they look very cool on the tabletop. also based black base rims

in other news, i bought a mk 2 b landraider from forgeworld at spiel two and a half weeks ago, but they did not bring the reinforced armour i wanted. they said they could ship it free as a convention deal and i got it in the mail today!

and so it begins, i'm doing the extra side armour around the sponsen and then sculpt it back togeter again rather than put the sponson on top of the armour. pic is of dry fitting the first pieces

the mk2 b i got seems to be much better then the one a view forums and youtubers did a review of (thank god) the extra armour needs quite a bit of reforming with warm water and there are some bubbles, since i was going to cut it up from the beginning that isn't really an issue
>>
>>50016037
I hadn't thought to clean that deep into the brush

I just did a full reassembly, and there was a lot of crap in the tip guard actually, but if it still doesn't flow right I will try that.

The nozzle looks ok, but it is really small and it is hard to tell. Is my vision going to shit? Needle looks fine. I would hope a steel needle should be pretty durable.

I am using a Badger Renegade Krome. The last time I had flow problems, running water through the brush and switching colors seemed to fix it. I assumed it was related to the paint I was using at the time, GW paints without enough flow improver.
>>
Time to start my first ever painting session. Wish me luck and Duncan's steadiness.
>>
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>>50016248
forgot pic
>>
>>50016180
Airbrush parts are really small, there's a reason I mentioned a magnifying glass, I'm 35 myself, I really can't see all of that stuff as clear as I'd like anymore.

Basically you want your brush to be spotless on the inside.
Anything built up anywhere means that paint can start sticking to it more easily, leading to more clogs.

I'd start by cleaning your tip guard given what you're describing, that might not be clogging stuff on its own, but it'll give paint an easier spot to start clogging shit up.

The needle is surprisingly durable, it's the very tip that you need to be careful with, but unless you're dropping it on a stone floor there's not much that can harm it directly.
The nozzle is quite fragile as the metal at the very tip is super thin, if something gets stuck there you can literally tear it (which I've had happen, not a fun experience).

I hope you find the issue so you can spray freely again.
>>
>>50016248
>>50016258
Good luck
>>
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>>50016248
>Wish me luck and Duncan's steadiness.

He is with you, brother.
>>
>>50015825

Thanks.
Yeah, they are a bit quirky and most don't mesh too well with other lines, but there are some real gems in there. And the texture, detail and character are as you say absolutely stunning.
The dwarves in particular are really good, as are some of the wizards.

I am really enjoying working on them.
>>
>>50015799
I'm impressed, they went from looking pretty bad to nice
>>
Can anyone help me. I saw some bases a while ago that were coloured perspex with cut patterns in them scifi style, like neon green or red. Anyone have any clue what they are? I can't find them anywhere!
>>
I want to bend to limbs on some of my metal models so duplicates look unique.
Whats the safest way to do this, if possible?
>>
>>50017358

Cutting and pinning with gs
>>
>>50014295

I just got some Nuln Oil. What am I supposed to do with it? Paint it up, slather on the oil, and call it a day, or do I do dark colors, slather oil, then highlight up?
>>
Does anyone know if prisma makes micron pens in white? Or if any other companies make something similar? I find that the black pens are great for writing on miniatures, but on dark backgrounds they don't contrast enough to be visible.
>>
>>50017358
alternatively you could just swap hands/weapons/heads where applicable and throw extra bits on to make guys look different, different skin tones help too
>>
>>50017533
Base coat, nuln oil (works best on cold colors), layer, then highlight.
>>
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airbrushed a lot of yellow today, going to have to strip their hand-brushed cousins as 1) they look like shit 2) they will never match ever
>>
>>50018201
Looks smooth.

You know good tutorials for getting started with airbrushing?
>>
>>50018368
>them mold lines
>smooth
sensible chucke
>>
>>50018201
>Terminators with kustom Imperial shootas and lascannons and HK missles.
What madness is this?
>>
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>>50018410
why is this Chuck guy so sensible? Would he know where some tutorials are?
>>
>>50018097

What's the painting difference from the base to the layer? Do I just paint less on it? Then the highlight is more of an accent?
>>
>>50018368
there are a lot of videos out there, but people don't like written tutorials as much

in general, you need
>an airbrush.
Go for a gravity fed one with a double action pen style trigger (trigger on type). The double action gives you waaaay more control.

Push down to make air flow, pull back to make paint flow. By pulling back only a tiny bit while pushing down, you do extremely thin coats, making it easy to do multiple coats for a smooth finish, as well as blend colors.

>a bottle of flow improver
a few drops of this stuff will make even thick GW paints go through the airbrush

>an air compressor
air compressors come in two flavors - tankless compressors, and compressors with tanks. Compressors with tanks cost more, but aren't prone to spurts and other funk that tankless compressors are.

>a big bottle of airbrush cleaner and air brush brushes
The brushes are for cleaning the airbrush, not the models.

>rubber gloves... cheap disposable will do
you WILL get paint all over your hands without these

>a ventilation solution
I airbrush outside. If you airbrush indoors, make sure you've got a vent hood and maybe a respirator

>a set of files, extra desk lamps, etc
airbrushing makes even tiny mold lines really obvious. Don't make the mistake I did...

---

I am still practicing and learning, but I usually try to go light on the trigger and build up color slowly.

Those marines were four layers of three different yellows (2 thin coats averland sunset, 1 coat yriel yellow on all the raised areas, 1 coat flash gitz yellow to highlight)

my advice? if you want to get into airbrushing, get an airbrush and just try it out. Cleaning it is the real challenge at first.

>>50018410
I had trouble seeing them until the paint went on, but now it is really obvious.

>>50018426
Recent renegade marine Obliterators. They believe that the Imperium is corrupt and it no longer follows the vision the Emperor intended.
>>
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Nearly finished, gotta do cloak trimmings and base. Otherwise finished. Thoughts?
>>
>>50018943
I like the axe head

the metals look a bit flat
>>
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Refining my iron warriors before I get going.

Input and criticism welcome.
>>
>>50019154
Poifect!
>>
>>50019154
Try painting a white iris before using a wash or glaze. The eyes are bad on your mini but looks good otherwise.
>>
>>50018445
You'll usually want a slightly darker basecoat than the layer, and the highlight should be the lightest. They should all be rather similar colors, though.

If you're painting something like marine armor, which is mostly large, flat surfaces, you can save time and paint by just focusing the shade into the recessed and not putting it over the broad plates, and so just pick a basecoat that's the color you'd want as it is.
>>
>>50019356

I'm painting pink horrors, so there are a lot muscles and stuff for recesses. What I did before was base it and then just add white on my pallet.
>>
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Wanted to make a techmarine with a conversion beamer for my army and the way they did it in the pic looks wicked but i can't figure out what the conversion is done with, can anyone else identify what's done with the weapon? I THINK it's some manner of lascannon.
>>
>>50019154
Looks fuckawesome my dood, but with eyes, you'd be better off maybe putting a white line in the centre of the lens(es) and put a red/green/whatever glaze over it.
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>>50019743
possibly one of the hand mounted heavy weapon (asst cannon/heavy flamer) from a terminator kit
>>
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I'm slowly going back through my deathwatch and giving their faces extra attention. 3 down, 18 to go.

Their edge highlighting is unfinished on these ones as well
>>
>>50019743
>scope on an underslung weapon

whut.
>>
>>50019981
according to fluff, the scope is linked to marine visors, so you can stick it around a corner and see as if you were looking straight through it

IRL, there is a nasty mold line there probably, and the creator wanted to cover it
>>
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>>50016159
done mocking up the right side extra armour, it needs some more work to make it fit better before i glue it but i already like the look. i have milliput super fine white and revell model filler to make it all blend together agian and if needed plastic card
>>
Anyone got a decent picture of SW scouts with snipers? I'm trying to paint mine and cant find a decent image where they're not painted with hot glue.
>>
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The squad isn't finished yet, but how do they look? Already unfucking the lenses
>>
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im working on Titanfall inspired ghostkeel where the pilot will be riding on the outside firing his gun
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>>50015799
>that gasmask guy

Where did you get the gasmask?
>>
>>50020847

Nobody cared about that model until he put on the gasmask.
>>
>>50019743
That's a chimera's multilaser mated with some sort of Termi or Space marine heavy weapon, probably a heavy flamer.
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>>50020847
it's stock, bro
>>
>>50019857
dude those faces turned out really nice, especially the guy front right.
>>
>>50020901
Termi heavy flamer looks like the best fit for the hand section, and that's definitely a chimera multilas barrel. Then I guess it's just carved up to the point where it fits on a servo-arm and put in a posable position.
>>
>>50020901
>>50020968
you what?

That's not a multilas barrel. It's scratch-built, likely out of plastic tubing and some guitar wire. I'd need to see more angles for the rest of the bits, but that barrel's not GW.
>>
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>>50021060
>>
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>>50021060
>>
>>50021147
>>50021088
looks like a multilaser barrel with some extra stuff added

there is a part of a necron weapon there

and a space marine sight

I don't what bit they used for the hand but it looks upside down
>>
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wip

fuck runefang silver
>>
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>>50021359
>>
Wouldn't normally post this in WIP, but it's related to painting my army.

What sort of heraldry would you put to a chapter called the Emancipators? Play like a mix of White Scars (who they're descended from) and Dark Angels, from a world with lots of bad weather. I'm thinking something with lightning bolts, or maybe raindrops.
>>
>>50021359
>fuck runefang silver
use stormhost silver instead
its more expensive but so worth it
>>
>>50021359
either the guy on the right is a little too into it or he tripped

either way, looking good
>>
>>50021407
thanks I'll look into it
>>
>>50021396
You could just do storm clouds and have the weather be squad markings/unit types. Like FA is a storm cloud with lightning, HS is a hail storm, Troops a rainstorm
>>
I know Prospero shall burn and I should model my bases as just black ash, but I felt like placing my models just prior to that. How does this do for a war-torn street? I fucked up the scale of the glass, but I have a question:

hobbying broken glass uses actual powdered glass, with a ton of warnings. I imagine it's used more for dioramas, so how would it go on a 40k base, subject to handling? is it dangerous enough to not even warrant as a basing material? in my picture is just some clear plastic i had laying around.
>>
>>50021396
an eagle's head coming out of a cloud to signify the wrath of the emperor striking from the cover of the weather
>>
>>50021396
>Emancipators
If it's derived from the latin word and not taken from another context it means that these guys are no longer under the influence of their father.
Are you playing some kind of Renegades or Traitors?

Anyway how about something related to travelling? A spoked wheel, winged foot, horse or some other kind of mount.
>>
>>50021766
>How does this do for a war-torn street?
looks very clean, not just for something war-torn in particular, but for a sidewalk or wall in general.
>hobbying broken glass uses actual powdered glass, with a ton of warnings. I imagine it's used more for dioramas, so how would it go on a 40k base, subject to handling? is it dangerous enough to not even warrant as a basing material? in my picture is just some clear plastic i had layin
crushed glass is used fro snow effects. I don't see any of that ton your base? If you use pieces you can't inhale and therfore won't land in your lungs this shouldn't concern you at all.

If you use that stuff on a gaming mini, like all other kind of flocking you just have to make sure it stays on the base. And be a little extra careful when applying it.
>>
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>>50021799
>derived from latin
that's High Gothic, and report we're reassigning you for re-education
please report to Istvan II, continental munincipality 1, terranova city, penal district, high-main street address 2061-A 13th floor, 9th door on the left where you shall sit in the RED c hair.

-Commisariat precint
>>
>>50021838
i havent bought any of the glass yet. Prospero used a ton of glass in its architecture so im looking at ways to represent it's ruin. That base there is just something i whipped up in twenty minutes to test out brickwork- half of it is set into texture paint, the other half superglued to the base directly. once i find a pattern i'm happy with i'll add a lot of weathering and battle damage.
>>
>>50021861
I'd finish the bases and then brake a few old cd cases. Brreak those into pieces as small as you need and just glue those onto the finished bases.

If you want something that looks like saftety glass, i.e. just look for decorative beads or pearls or maybe you can even get granulated clear plastic somewhere.
>>
>>50021766
That glass needs more breaks or more jagged breaks, it looks way too clean.
>>
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WIP Typhus, feel like he needs something adding to him, was thinking a cloud of flies coming from his vents or a magic/psyker effect from his outstretched hand?
>>
>>50021766
Nice base, I was thinking of just using some tiled plasticard for mine.
>>
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Im working on Fenris from war machine right now and I want to make it so that his mounted model is landing in some snow and causing it and maybe some mud to splash up from the impact. Does anyone have and advice on how to do that?

Also I am using Valhallan Blizzard for snow.
>>
>>50014406
I know, I've been in several threads with people panning your shit. It looks good though and your persistence makes Father Nurgle proud.
>>
>>50023255
>some snow and causing it and maybe some mud to splash up from the impact. Does anyone have and advice on how to do that?
I'd curve some wire and glue that down around the feet and the add the snow over that. If you add some tiny chunks of cork before applying the snow you can give it some volume too.
>>
>>50016159
>>50020079
It looks rad. Have you tried dry fitting the middle pieces of the MkIIB together, or do they seem straight and even?

Also, is the Crux Terminatus on the sponson molded on or is it separate?
>>
>>50023142
how did you make that truescale marine on the left?
>>
>>50020776
your first minis?

The horns need more work and some of the edge highlights (2nd dude from the right) look crude.

The color scheme works, but its hast to be done alot before they are finished.
>>
>>50023142
>was thinking a cloud of flies coming from his vents or a magic/psyker effect from his outstretched hand?

Sounds awesome in theory, but how would you model a "cloud of flies"? A cotton ball?
>>
>>50023333
That was made using the grave warden terminator legs, death shroud torso with a putty belly, renegade militia gas mask head, terminator arms.

>>50023411
Using some of the flies from the maggot lord kit (he has some flying from his back), couple of those bits melded together to make it look like weird smoke from a distance then cloud of flies when you get closer.
>>
>>50014674

Just cut off the parts you don't like or sand them down. Or just recreate the poses from regular marines and save yourself the trouble.
>>
>>50019857

Pretty good but the eyes should actually be even smaller as you're painting a large part of the eyesocket white too now.
>>
>>50021359

Runefang Steel is meant for edge highlights, not basecoating
>>
Are hazards stripes a chaos exclusive thing or would it be weird if an imperial guard dozer blade had one on it?
>>
>>50024617
They were commonly used for Imperial stuff too in earlier editions.
>>
>>50024625
You have any examples?
>>
>>50024617
It was during 3rd edition with the new Chaos release where the Iron Warriors mech aesthetic became hugely popular that hazard stripes was seen as there thing. I guess Chaos players before then had to contend with cheesy 80s rock aesthetic so they were seen as a new outlet.
>>
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>>50024648
2nd Edition stuff had them
>>
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>>50024648
>>
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>>50024658
>>50024665
Theme that continues to this day.
>>
>>50024648
>You have any examples?

Industrial hazard stripes were also common on the arms of loyalist terminators in First Edition.
>>
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What color should I paint these space marines who I also use as generic soldiers / gun men?
>>
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Also....any thoughts on my Trump mini?
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>>50024844
Dark blue uniforms, black/dark gray armor plates.
Like a generic sci-fi SWAT unit

Pic kinda related
>>
>>50024858

Looks more like Eric than Donald.
>>
>>50024771
Hazard stripes, flames, checker patterns, and thunderbolts are super common all over 40k.

Basically anything kind of geometric or easily recognizable to break up patterns and decorate large amounts of space.
>>
>>50018201

But anon, thats ludicrous! Everyone knows using an airbrush is 1) Cheating, and 2) Looks way worse than anything you could ever produce with a brush, and 3) Is only for beginners...

Nah, just kidding, just re-posting some "popular beliefs" from /tg/´s trolls, your guys looks great, and I would rather kill myself than try and paint a full army of yellow without an airbrush!
>>
>>50014295
Is Army Painter Plate Metal a primer good enough to coat GW plastic, also what are good paint strippers in the uk
>>
>>50024870
I like this, thanks. Probably will do blue or gray.
>>
>>50021359
>>50021364

I really like these, got my AoS blood pumping again!
>>
>>50025187
I can't speak for Plate Metal in particular, but I have Army Painter's white, black, red and purple primers and they've all worked great regardless of material
>>
>>50024871
Hah
>>
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>>50024617
I recall that it was fairly common for loyalist terminators to have hazard stripes on their powerfists.

>>50024844
Depending on their background i'd go for a generic olive drab look if they are part of an army, or for blueish black and greys if they are a private militia.

>>50014481
>>50014885
>>50015353
>>50015900
>>50023290
Thank you for all the kind words. Feels good man.

The wheels of all the bikes mostly look the way they do because i failed to accomplish a good look for corroded rubber. I'm open for any advice or tutorials on that matter, turned out to be a lot more complicated than i thought.

I already got started with my next project: A ton of zombies/cultists to bring some numbers to my game.

Twenty down...
>>
>>50025187

AP is pretty good. I used it several times when I wanted a full main colored coat on an army.
>>
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>>50014295
>Duncan General
psh
>>
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>>50025450
... fifty to go. Woe is me.
>>
>>50021766
I used pieces from a Tic-Tac container, or other similarly coloured plastics, to mimic larger glass pieces safely.
>>
>>50025479
this is the life you chose
>>
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Thoughts on my knight? It's old but felt like getting opinions. I look forward to airbrushing the next ones I buy though..l
>>
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I'm trying out a simpler form of Truescale for my chaos Kill-team, but not sure if it works. What do you think?
>>
>>50025805
It's neat. The white seems a bit empty though
>>
>>50025874
What would you suggest to fill it up a bit?
>>
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What paints (Citadel or Army Painter, preferably, since those are easiest for me to get) would you use to match the blue of Cygnar warjacks and heavy armor? Caledor Sky seems a little too light, and Macragge Blue and Kantor Blue seem kind of dull.
>>
>>50019154
I feel like it could use a couple brights/highlights. I'd work in maybe a brighter layer of silver on top of the areas where you think light would fall on the figure (helmet dome/face, shoulderpads, tops of the backpack) and give him a bright highlight in the eyes.
>>
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Also mucking around with some dark eldar...
>>
>>50025890
I'm not sure, if you're interested you could try a marble effect, or some kind of highlight at the edges like you did with the red.
>>
>>50025805
>>50025890
Transfers are very necessary to make a Knight-sized model go from "meh" to "wow"
>>
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>>50025910
>>
>>50025805
Everything looks flat. You have a little tonal variation with your reds but your whites and especially your golds look like one solid color giving. You need to add shadows and highlights.
>>
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>>50025919
>>
>>50025919
>>50025934
Sexy. Although i feel that the rose would be stronger if it was only on one side of the model.
>>
>>50025912
Marble would be cool, but I'm not sure where to start with that.
When I have the time to go back and finish it I'll finish highlighting the gold. And work out something for the white.

>>50025925
How would you go about the tonal variation with white on these large flat surfaces? Working with white would be one of my biggest weaknesses with this kind of model.

I'm still unsure how I should highlight the gold. I used the Vallejo real gold metaliser kind of paint and it looks better in person than on a phone camera

>>50025917
I will be making some stencils to airbrush patterns on instead of decals. The moment I try to decal things... it's a bad time for me and the model...

Ps. Thanks for input
>>
>>50025995
I'll do that for the next one.
>>
>>50025998
>The moment I try to decal things... it's a bad time for me and the model...
Have you checked out this tutorial? I tried it out on a smaller model and it worked great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I36AWCdNJCY
>>
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>>50019857
>this edge highlighting

Why. Why do you do this to me, anon.
>>
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>>50026071
What a shoddy camera, doesn't pick up my blending, smashes all the colors together.
>>
>>50025998
To add depth to white you use grey or brown. If you use your airbrush just spray the edges and have a nice fade.

For gold you highlight with silver. For shadows you can use any wash, I personally like blue-green washes as they add a lot of contrast but a brown or black wash would be just fine.
>>
>>50026113
I didn't have an airbrush at the time so wasn't sure how to do it neatly with brushes. I'll give it a blast once I'm finished painting my 45 remaining grey knights.

Yeah I'll figure out some neat gold highlighting. I tend to use purple inks with gold, but your blue green idea sounds interesting to try.
>>
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>>50026107
>>
>>50026145
add a nice creamy brown color to some white, at about a 50:50 ratio, and blend it out from the edges of the plates. Look up Two Brush Blending for an idea of how to transition smooth gradients.
>>
>>50016258
That flyer stand glued to cork is making me nervous
>>
>>50025866
Doesn't look like regular power armor to me since he doesn't have a backpack.
Still reads as termie armor to me.
>>
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A commissar (counts as Ordos Xenos Inquisitor) I'm working on to lead my Deathwatch kill-team. Definitely took the modeling idea from somewhere else. It really pleased with how it's coming out so far.
>>
>plan a game with a friend months in advance
>painting like a motherfucker
>game gets cancelled the day before because of an unavoidable emergency
>>
>>50026411
Just reschedule bruh, those models won't unpaint themselves and they'll be just as impressive next session, whenever that is
>>
>>50026477
yeah we did, I just have blue balls the size of grapefruits right now
>>
>>50026107
Maybe, but your Butcher still looks really good, Khador anon. Ready to slaughter Cygnaran dogs, Mennite swine, filthy trolls, Circle hippies, traitors to glorious Khador, or really anything dumb enough to get within range of Lola.

If you don't mind me asking, are the slow speeds of their warjacks and Man-O-War units a big deal? I'm trying to decide between starting a Khador army or a Cygnar one.
>>
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>>50026508
Are there other kits .40k/Fantasy/3rd party that have a head/face bit similar to the Talos Pain Engines or Ogryns which are just large masks?

They need to be similar size so Harlies don't work. No particular style in mind just something interesting
>>
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>>50026352
Some WIP Deathwatch brothers. The power fiat sergeant is completely magnetized so I can switch out both arms and his head. A little overboard but the box comes with a lot of options and I felt they would go to waste.
>>
>>50025898

I would stop being lazy and just order Cygnar blue. You already proven you got access to the internet.
>>
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>>50026815
Some of the more completed Deathwatch brothers.
>>
>>50026793
The Skyweaver/Voidweaver harlequin tank kit has a lot of weird big harlequin masks, I used some of them on my Grotesque conversions.
>>
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>>50026718
>are the slow speeds of their warjacks and Man-O-War units a big deal?

Warjacks, no. Man O War, possibly.

Almost every single khador warcaster, as of MK3 (or 3rd edition, whichever way you wanna call it), has a speed buff for their jacks.

Khador is deceptively fast. You think they're slow, and then BAM, sixteen tonnes of metal and steam come screaming 20 inches up the field and obliterate your 20 point centerpiece.

Khador makes piece trading a fucking childs game. The Juggernaut is 12 points, the literal lowest point cost on any combat heavy jack, and is so amazingly good I'm worried it'll get nerfed.

To answer your question fully: Warjacks have slow base SPD. The warcasters make up for it, easily. Man O War need the right support pieces (Officer, Man o War Kovnik, either Irusk etc) to get going, but they're solid in this edition.

Khador is a good place to start. A solid army, solid easy playstyle, can branch out from attrition to control, support or assassination, and more importantly the models are all really good.
>>
>>50026875
Really like that Dangle (hello ladies).

Also, is that power lance kitbashed or stock? Because it and that Storm Shield are fucking gangster.
>>
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>>50026976
It's an old metal grey knight halberd. Not sure what it's actually going to "count as" in-game, but yeah it's pretty cool looking.

The Deathwatch stormshields also look cool on termies.
>>
>>50026793
>3rd party that have a head/face bit similar to the Talos Pain Engines or
pretty sure either puppetswar or maxmini have helmets with those kind of face plates.
>>
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Got extremely high and finished these up last night in a mere 6 hours.
>>
>>50027136
What are they supposed to be?
>>
>>50027217

marines
>>
>>50027217
Rasta-watch
>>
>>50027136

I like them. Different than the original black death watch marines. Will fit the theme of your existing army fine, and still fill its role.

Extra point for the robed head, looks great!
>>
>>50027119
pretty sure those are too small
>>50026900
Oh, neat those may work
>>
>>50027298

thanks dogg. I already had marines painted this color and for some reason I wanted to continue with the scheme
>>
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Anybody know where to get some pic related? Only found one listing on ebay for them and after shipping it's gonna be $60, and they're also covered in thick gloppy paint. I can always strip them, but I might have just spent another $60 on a new-in-box set of 5 metal Screamers.
>>
I wanted to paint today but it is raining.
>>
>>50027569
Isn't that the best time to paint?
>>
I need to figure out how to base my Alpha Legion. They're quite dark in that odd metallic scheme. I was planning on doing snowy bases. Any advice?
>>
>>50027648
I've been airbrushing outside.

>>50027663
the GW sculpted bases are actually really nice and easy, but they don't have anything snowy
>>
>>50027496
Wait for chaos' OOP run.
>>
>>50027700
I have GW's new snow texture paint but I don't know whether I should put 'ground' beneath it, or just slap it onto the bare base.
>>
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Just realized I never posted my Armies on Parade display. I won third in my store, what do you guys think?
>>
>>50027910
depends whether you want solid snow or snow with patches of dirt
>>
I posted in the last thread about my Darkstrider and Pathfinder cloaks, attempting to make fabric capes for them.

Well, it didn't work. The entire thing was a bust and iot looked ugly as sin as well, half the model got drenched in PVA glue the moment I dabbed some on the cloak (it got heavy, stuck to the model and the details on it siphoned everything). I didn't even use that much either.

For them, I'm just going to relinquish myself to giving them Tiger Stripe-y camo on their armour. The army colour scheme is a rich emerald green with leather underarmour, so if I put some brown streaks with a tiny bit of brownish yellow highlighting on top of the armour, I won't be compromising the scheme of the army and make them stick out like sore thumbs.

On the plus-side, I think the gun wrapping will work really well for Darkstrider. But I can't wrap the carbines on the pathfinders and have the 3 Rail Rifles without (and you can't wrap those because the gun's open, it's retarded). Overall I'm going to be having fluffy physical camo and an an Operator as Fuck HQ. If I can find or make capes for them, fair enough.
>>
>>50027910
One of its strong points is that thin layers become transparent and look like slushy snow, so you'd want ground underneath
>>
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Finished (kinda) two practice pieces.

Edge highlight on the Salamander isn't great. And I've yet to do the blacks. Otherwise, would you call this tabletop acceptable?
>>
>>50027136
>got high
>did something productive
Bro, crack is really bad for you. Wouldnt recommend using it to boost painting

sons of medusa i hope?
>>
>>50028082
So what if I do just want thick snow? Paint the base white first? Or maybe try some sort of blue thing so that it looks like there's ice beneath?
>>
>>50023300
thank you anon, i did not dry fit the middle pieces yet but i removed the nubs and compared themh them to the plastic parts, they seem to be straight and the correct with. only the bit of armour that goes on the heavy bolters is a bit warped
>>
>>50028259
I don't know, actually. I'd do a couple of test bases:
>valhallan blizzard on top of a white base
>valhallan blizzard on top of an icy blue base
>valhallan blizzard on top of mourn mountain snow
>heavy amounts of valhallan blizzard on top of a black base, completely covering it
>any of the above with drakenhof nightshade on top
etc.
>>
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I'm thinking of purchasing pic related for my necrons kill team.
Has anyone ever bought these or anything from this company?
Will other players hate me for not using the traditonal look bases?

http://laserterrain.co/store/floor-etched-acrylic-25mm-bases-black/
>>
>>50027949
got any pics of the person who won first?
>>
>>50027778

Is that like a thing where GW starts making a bunch of OOP models for a while or something? Never heard of that before.
>>
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Working on my plasma like lascannon, i just like glowing things
>>
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Working on a conversion for a renegade Knight detachment for my Chaos Daemons of Tzeentch, and I need them to look... Daemonic. Duh.

What do you guys think of pic related? Can I make this work?
>>
>>50028303
Sounds pretty good. Does the kit come with the Land Raider Redeemer/Crusader sprues? The ones with the flamestorm cannons, hurricane bolters, multi-meltas, smoke launchers in one piece instead of two etc.
>>
>>50028543
use a lot of greenstuff. Also move the may forward a bit so that it isn't tucked under the armor. You may need to use some copper or steel wire as an armature.

It will look great though.
>>
>>50028397
>Will other players hate me for not using the traditonal look bases?

Base size is all that really matters, so they shouldn't if you put them on the correct size.
>>
>>50027496

They aren't that hard to find desu, I have like 40 of them. Those arms are super thin though, if you're going to use them to play, the plastics are far superior in durability, albeit not so in character.
>>
>>50027949

Your miniatures do not have any visible highlights from a distance and the entire theme is very muted. Against such a busy background, they do not come out very well. Your minis would look better with a few parts that stand out.
>>
>>50027949
Dragon doesn't fit the theme unless he's undead. and if he is, i can't tell from this pic,
>>
>>50028504
your glow looks great but for the love of the Emperor please crop your images
>>
>>50028504
1.41MB pic. could've cropped over 2/3rds of it and shown the same thing. . .
>>
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Drybrushing feels like cheating
Jesus
>>
>>50021766
are those juwela scenics bricks? If not, then what?
>>
>>50028543
Looks good, but I agree with >>50028595. Pull the mouth out from under the armor plates and give it a neck. Doesn't have to be a long one, just enough to give it clearance. Unless you have a snake theme already. Then make that neck like 4" long, bro.
>>
>>50028744
I did my rubric marines and my land raider like that back in 5th, thought it fits because "lol dustbins". Then sometime later i did the Terminators in proper colours with highlighting and the whole shebang and fuck me I love them.

>Someday I need to strip it
>Someday I need to strip, reassemble and repaint 16 fucking half-plastic/half-metal rubrics

I go to sleep with fear and dread gripping my heart every night at the thought of such a horrible experience.
>>
>>50028805
It doesnt look too bad in my opinion...
I've never painted a vehicle that wasnt ramstacked mess so I was too scared to try edge highlighting
>>
>>50028938
it doesn't look bad, no. the best way is to use highlights AND drybrushing when needed, obviously
>>
Finally got a hand drill so I can start drilling my bolters, except I just stabbed myself with the damm thing. Good thing I'm painting Chaos Marines.
>>
>>50028738
>>50028743

Yeah, I'm sorry! New phone
>>
>>50028037
m8

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/286080-tutorial-capes-made-from-tissue/
>>
>>50028103
His arm isn't actually attached to his body, so no.

Also the metal on the boltgun looks hideous, clotted and lumpy. Could do with thinner paints and then washes and highlights. Eyes have gone outside the lines and your highlights are very thick.
>>
>>50028595
it's a standard phobos land raider kit in a forgeworld bag (without instructions) and a bag of resin parts with a sheet of how the finished model is going to look like.. i'm pleased it seems to be ok, i did read some reviews and watched some youtebe movies and some people had real issues with this kit. als forgot to answer is my last post but the crux terminatus is moulded onto the sponson

the extra armour also has an eagle and a crux terminatus but they are not realy sharp so i'm thinking about shaving them off

i also got the overzised rhino dozerblade to go on a demolisher i'm building, the dozerblade itself was cast nice and crisp but the brackets are rather warped. this was my first forgeworld purchase the mk2 b is a nice kit, the extra armour and the dozerblade are average (i have experience with other resin kits)

many reviewers are whining that they show you nice pics and then send you a bag of parts that only turn in to that nice piece if you are willing to put a lot of time and effort in to the model, but isn't this treu for this entire hobby? i'm not defending forgeworld, they are expensive and most of the time out of my price range but i manned a booth at spiel and we sold really wel so i had money to splurge on something special. i know, for the money they're asking you expect top quality but fuck it, i really like the idea of an mk2b with extra armour and it's going to be a nice build.
>>
>>50028037
I didn't glue them yet and they'd be cut and shaped properly, but here is a picture of the wrapping idea. I removed underslung bracket and grenade launcher to make it stick out more.

Top is fine medical gauze, bottom is thin fabric. It'd be painted and possibly even flocked a tiny bit. I'm personally leaning towards the gauze as it looks like combat netting and is also easier to wrap around.
>>
>>50028441
That's exactly right and GW just started it last month I believe? 3rd edition Daemons were a very popular request.
>>
>>50029085
What in the Tau'va am I looking at?!

It looks baller but isn't TP really flimsy? These would be manhandled.. I mean sure yeah you could load it with PVA glue but it's still bloody bog roll innit?
>>
>>50028990
Add your blood to your chaos marines.
They will be more authentic that way.
>>
>>50029157
>many reviewers are whining that they show you nice pics and then send you a bag of parts that only turn in to that nice piece if you are willing to put a lot of time and effort in to the model, but isn't this treu for this entire hobby?
Well yeah, are people going to complain that the models aren't painted too?

I guess people are accustomed to modern plastic models where everything fits perfectly, but with FW you're paying extra and putting more work in to get better details, more advanced kits and more variety in the kits available.
>>
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>>50029215
Also I'm a dumbass and forgot my pick-chair
>>
>>50029274
Mate, it's a tutorial. You use tweezers to manipulate the tissue while it's wet and when the glue dries it's hard and can take paint and a little wear. If you wanted to make it really tough you could use a gloss varnish followed by a matte varnish to ensure it's rock hard.

There are posts in the thread saying "Oh this doesn't look like it works, I'll try it. Oh wait, it does work". I tried it once ages ago for some Tanith conversions and providing that you don't buy toilet paper with designs on (like I did...) it works really well and looks pretty natural. I'd at least try it before you dismiss it.
>>
>>50029291
For all intents and purposes FW sells Garage Kits, ie. kits without much in the way of instructions (except the really big resin ones).
Very detailed though, but I will say that most Garage Kits come with a ton of etched metal, FWs do not, which is easier to work with.
>>
>>50029403
Oh I'm not dismissing it, I'm just in disbelief! I will definitely try this, as it seems to also give you a much more natural look as to how the cloak rests on the shoulders and body, with armour contours poking out. Thanks a lot for this, I'm total shit at sculpting with putty, but this looks a lot easier provided you take things at a snail's pace.

>providing that you don't buy toilet paper with designs on (like I did...)
So you got a regiment of Tanith Guardsmen wearing cloaks with the charmin bear and flowers on them?
>>
>>50029495
Pretty much yeah, although luckily I noticed after I did the first five. It was alright when it was wet but after it dried I realised there were massive floral designs all over their capes. Might work for Emperor's Children, but not Tanith.
>>
>>50029529
Got any photos? I'd love to see that. Couldn't you technically be able to re-wet the capes with thinned PVA and putting another layer? Maybe a thicker paper towel to cover them up?

Also I'm thinking of how to go about painting them. Do the capes on an unprimed model -> prime -> brush varnish capes to seal -> paint everything? I never varnished before so I dunno how paint takes to it.
>>
>>50014406
Good god damn, I say!

>good god damn
>>
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Finished my Haemonculus the other night. Taking a break before starting Cronos or Talos.

Reply post will be my twin archons.
>>
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>>50029624
Twin Archons.
The one with the sword is a gril.
>>
>>50026908
Thanks for the input, anon. I think I'll pick up a Khador battlegroup box and go from there.
>>
>>50029690
I would actually advise picking up the MK3 battlebox. It should have Kozlov, a Decimator and a Juggernaut in it. It's a solid entry point into Khador.

I'd then say you should pick up a unit of Rifle Corps, Kovnik Joe and a Behemoth. That should keep you going for quite a while.
>>
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Just got two harlequin sides of the death masque box set in the mail. Looks like I have several weeks of work ahead of me.

I am wondering how I should base my harlequins. Here are some of my ideas:
1) grey rocky base with glowing crystals
2) grey rocky base with glowing mushrooms
3) Base with colored dice
4) Base with tarot cards
>>
>>50029291
this indeed, but my english typing skills were not sufficient.

most of the time i don't end up with what the instructions say it will become anyway, the only differnece is this time i'm chopping up hugely expensive resin >feelsgoodman.jpg
>>
>>50029770
Yeah, I was planning on the MK3 box so I can get a hardcopy of the MK3 rules. In the long run, I *think* I'd rather have the Destroyer than the Decimator, but the Decimator is probably better for 0-point games to start out with.

Did WG Rifle Corps pass WG Infantry for quality in MK3?
>>
>>50029793

Just got mine from gamingfigures.com, they have 4 boxes left for people near/around the UK. I'm dutch myself, thanks to the pound I could pick it up for 95 euro. Picked up a burning of prospero while I was there for 90 euro too, good times.
>>
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I think I'm finally done with assembly on my grombrindal. Prime tonight and hopefully start painting tomorrow.
>>
>>50029117
Never noticed how fucked up the gun looks (aside from the lack of colouring and shading that was intentional to compare how different levels of painted the guns looked with marines). And yeah that highlight is pretty rough.

How would you rate the DA sergeant?
>>
>>50029837
By leaps and fucking bounds. WGI lost their defensive order, so they're just warm bodies now, and their sprays become a one round ability only, so they're corner case at best.

Rifle corps were always solid, but now they can take Rocketeers, which makes them stupidly good, and they gained Combined Ranged Attack, which makes them even better. With Kovnik Joe, you're going to be murdering your opponents infantry every turn, no issues.

The best caster to run them with as of now is Irusk2. He gets a 5" aoe that gives cover, making them 17/12 which is stupid hard to hit, and he can make all of your dudes immune to knockdown and blasts as well as being tough and stopping your opponents for a turn.
>>
>>50029894
looks amazing.
>>
Which Space Marines chapter would you suggest for the corpses on the bases of a Tau army? Which one is the most fitting?
>>
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Any advice for dulling down colors without using nuln oil? I was thinking of using a really small wire brush to abrate the red down so I'm not adding more on top of the existing paint. I'd love some advice on this if anyone has any ideas.
>>
>>50029858
I got mine on ebay. The troupes for $12 where GW charges $40. I paid $120 for:
2 starweavers
2 death jesters
12 harlequins
4 skyweavers
1 rule book.

If I had paid full GW price it would have been about $290.
>>
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>>50028543 here

>>50028606
>>50028796

Thanks fellas, I'll probably do that. I'm going more for a "mouth with lots of teeth" theme for this particular one. I probably won't go with too long of a neck since the mouth is pretty big as it is and extending it too far is gonna make the torso a lot bigger.
I'm using the mouth from pic related (Hellmouth from Hordes) and as you can see, the individual mouth flaps are not equal in size so I do need it to extend some so I can give the impression that it is turning and draw attention away from that.
I'll probably use a bunch of old guitar string I've got in addition to a fleshy look from greenstuff.

I'm starting to ramble. Any more input would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>>50029994
What color is your Tau army? Most fitting would technically be Ultrasmurfs since Tau is in their backyard.
>>
>>50029624
>>50029647

I don't have anything to contribute but will somebody please explain to me why the 6.64MB picture loads instantly for me but the 575KB pic takes the better part of a minute?

I know 4chan is shitty now, but that's just backwards.
>>
>>50030016

That's a really good deal, especially since you don't have to manually trade the marines with someone.
>>
>>50030134
Dude, I don't know either. Same for Webms.
>>
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>>50030131

It's a variant of this one. A bit darker with red markings instead of blue.
>>
>>50030201

Also there's snow on the bases.
>>
>>50030201
>>50030247

In that case, imperial fists or salamanders.
>>
>>50030201
>>50030247
I'd say an orange, red, or green chapter would do. So, Minotaurs, Blood Angels/Exorcists, or Salamanders in my opinion.
>>
>>50030287

Nah, he already has red markings so no red on the base.
>>
>>50029292
>>50029215
bumparino for these please
>>
>>50029894
'staces looks like bananas.
>>
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>>50030409
>>
How do people use plastic cement without being terrified of fucking up? I usually use superglue, even with plastic minis, but I bought some Tamiya Cement because I need to put together a large model (even did some drilling and pinning) and I want it to never fall apart.

I'm horrified of the idea of putting a drop in the wrong place and melting this stupidly expensive model.
>>
>>50029998
what the fuck kinda color scheme you going for there nigga?
>>
>>50030409
Yeah i had a brain derp and forgot to texture them until they were already hard. I'm hoping i can salvage it a little bit in painting.
>>
>>50029998

I wanted it to look like a ship that had been owned by alot of different people who all started painting the ship a particular color before they were killed in the line of duty. Last owner kept it the crazy color as a sort of tribute to the previous owners. Gonna inscribe some names on the aelerons in arbesh to represent it.
>>
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>>50030479
>>50030703

Quoted the wrong one.
>>
>>50030247
>>50030201
cool I have a similar ice world tau. I have been experimenting trying to find snow I like.
>>
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Okay this is an EXTREMELY rough mock up, but what do you guys think of this color scheme for harlequins, basically multicolored diamonds with black diamonds. When I actually paint them I will use an airbrush to properly fade the colors into each other.
>>
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>>50030813

If you are interested, I have this chart that I got from one of these threads.
>>
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>>50030813
>That gradient
Oh my Greater Good...I wish I had an airbrush.
>>
>>50030983
I also kind of wish I had picked a more vibrant color scheme. I like my Tron sytled scheme, but painting black, "tron line" color, and edge highlights gets boring fast.
>>
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>>50029291
for you anon (and becuade i wanted to know to)
>>
>>50030930
Its more of figuring out how much to put without it looking like I jizzed everywhere.
>>
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>>50030201

Would the Red Scorpions do?
>>
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>>50030983
I wanted to try reverse highlighting to give a more metallic look to the suits.

Posting this from my phone, so sorry about size and rotation.
>>
>>50031146
Not him, but a simple trick I think would work is if you can imagine a straight line from the surface you want to add snow to that doesn't cross over any other part of the model/base detail, you can put snow on it. But you want to use the same angle. So for example, if you have snow on top of a Space marine's kneepad, there sure as hell won't be any behind his leg, kind of like a shadow.
>>
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I was originally going to do a Tronsuit, then decided I didn't want to. I really wanted green highlighting, then changed my mind.

This was the result. (I did edge highlighting afterward but didn't take a photo.)
>>
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>>50031200
God, I'm in love with the gradient. Here's some of my dudes. The Stormsurge is a recast.
>>
>>50031306
These look way better than what I (>>50031236
)was planning on doing, man. What color is that for the blue lines? Looks darker than Lothern, which is what I was going to use.
>>
>>50031412
It's actually brighter. It's Temple Guard Blue. The White on the Commander is Vallejo Glacier Blue.
>>
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Just finished assembling all the guys from Silver Tower, and started painting them. The horrors go first. The smallest ones could be pretty nasty when there were six of them, all casting pink fire (area effect)...
>>
>>50031452
Huh, neat. Okay.

Seeing how my test suit turned out, I'm leaning back towards doing Tronsuits. But I don't have a ton of motivation since I've recently found out every LGS here has discontinued their 40k events. And I don't know any other players.
>>
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Alright so here's my first mock-up of my idea for an Imperial Guard veteran Kill Team.

Obviously based on the Marines of Half-Life.

Thoughts?

While we're on the subject, how should I equip the team? I was thinking at least a flamer, a sniper rifle, and a missile launcher (all weapons from the game)
>>
>>50031918
Interesting idea, not super crazy about the weird looking torso armor but I bet itll look a lot better painted.
>>
>>50031918
maxmini makes some combat armor torsos that fit a little better, you may wanna check around 3rd party sellers, hell cadian torsos fit better than the stealer cult ones do, maybe sm scouts?
>>
>>50031511
Aw, man that sucks. I was lucky enough to have a trio of brothers get our friend group of 10 or so into the hobby. And while only 3 of us seriously paint (1 is slowly starting to get into it more and more and it makes me glad), we have just about every army represented.
>>
>>50032169
I should've phrased that better. I'm not in the trio. It's a pair of twins and their older brother. But the younger twin, the older brother, and I are the serious hobbyists.
>>
>haven't painted in months
>prime a Menoth Monolith Bearer because it was one of the only unpainted models I had
>bust out my paints
>they're all fucking clogged up or dried out

REEEEE

I just wanted to relax and paint.
>>
>>50029793
Anon, I'm this guy>>50026793

Any chance I can get those extra masks like >>50026900 suggests?

US based btw
>>
>>50030134
>>50030181

Yup, same here. Glad other people been having problems. I have a hunch though; you guys using your phone?
>>
>>50032329
Nope, computer. I thought it was my internet connection at first, but now I can confirm it's definitely the site.
>>
>>50032329

Nope, desktop computer with a hard wired high speed internet connection.
>>
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Quick trial of a nebula pattern. I want to put something like this on my raider's aethersails.
>>
>>50032336
>>50032340
Kinda glad to hear that. I know then it is the site and not our desktop/devices. Most likely something to do with the new ads that pop up.
>>
>>50032428

Stars aren't all white, mix it up slighty
>>
>>50032428
I think it looks cool af. I know ppl on here will critique for numerous reason maybe but i am much more impressed with ascetic and style over method. If anything, make those areas were the nebula meets black space darker and a little more subtle. Looks good man.
>>
>>50032467
I dont agree with this. The best paint jobs that do space/nebula scenes use white. Other colors add to much contrasting aspects and draws the eye away from what should be more important, the lack of stars.
>>
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>>50028543
>>50030098

Just gonna make one more call to attention to this right hurr.
>>
>>50014406
not taking plague marines in units of 7

fuck off normie, reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
>>
>>50032546

I'm not talking about yellow suns with a smile on them here, maybe just a red glaze around a big celestial body. Space is a riot of colors.
>>
>>50031963

I'm hoping if I paint it well it should look more 80s-90s sci fi.

>>50032103

Eh, the cadian bodies are medicore in my opinion. SM scouts seem too bulky, but I can give it a shot. I'm mostly proud of getting that helmet on the neophyte's head
>>
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>>50031509
nice anon, i like your colours

while searching my bitzboxes for a demolisher cannon i found a aobr sm captain whitout sword and backpack. did a headswap and gave him a powerfist both from the sanguinary guard sprue. the backpack is dc and i made new bannerpole. i'm sure he's on the wrong base but 25mm looks stupid and i don't have any 32mm spare atm
>>
>>50032821
Hahahah kk, i see what you mean now. Some red and blue glazes thinned would work wonders on some of the bigger bodies. Fair enough amigo.
>>
>>50029292
>>50029215
Nothing for this, please?
>>
>>50033051
Gonna be hard to tell without it being painted man. I think the bottom one would look better but no clue how it would react to paint.

Have you tried the tissue trick?
>>
>>50033141
I haven't yet as it's really late. Going to sleep in a few minutes actually. I will try it tomorrow though, for sure.

I guess I'll just have to experiment with both wrappings then and see how each looks. the fabric is just such a bitch to work with. the gauze is a lot easier. i figured it looked like combat netting you'd realistically use.
>>
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gloss coated an washed my piss marines

then the rain came back.

need to clean the yellow in a few places, then do all the other colors. Either way, I think they are done as far as the airbrushing goes.
>>
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What colour for lenses? There's also gonna be a black yellow hazard stripped dozer blade
>>
>>50033590
Red, it's a good contrast for those bloues.
>>
>>50030478
The Tamiya cement I use comes in a glass bottle with a brush on the cap, if this is the one you bought then just wipe the brush on the inside of the jar before you apply glue to the model, this lets some of the glue run back into the bottle and there is no need to worry about a big drop landing somewhere.

I love the Tamiya plastic glue. twice the glue and half the cost of a bottle of citadel glue, it's the exact same stuff, hell if you like using the bottle from citadel then just pour the glue from the Tamiya bottle into the citadel bottle.
>>
How do I paint yellow lenses?
>>
>>50033846
Yellow paint
>>
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>>50033846
>>
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>>50032428
Your stars are too large. They look like they have popped.
>>
>>50032428
My personal opinion: Do the nebulas by drybrushing them, they'd look more like gas clouds
than paint splotches. I drybrushed a gradient(I like to call it "dryblending") to create the plasma effect on >>50031306. And like other suggestions, different color stars and smaller stars.
>>
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7.
It took me 7 coats of yellow to get a smooth coat on a metal basecoat.
Fuck me
>>
>>50034072
>metal basecoat

but why
>>
>>50034079
I painted a dozer blade and wanted to put hazard strips on a piece of it.
>>
>>50034072
>not doing a yellow basecoat

Literally why
>>
>>50034133
Why not use painters tape to mark out the hazard stripes?
>>
>>50014406
no Golden Demon?
>Thin your Paints, and kill yourself
Seriously tho, that bike is fucking insane, well done m9
>>
>>50033890
Loving the galaxy + the coloured diamond patterns, very Chris Foss Esque
>>
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>>50032622
There will be two plasma gunners for each squad eventually, there just wasn't any space left at 1000 p.

>>50033590
Yellow or red should work great.
>>
>>50031121
Awesome, cheers
>>
>>50033581
That sword looks kinda weird with the hand guard facing up on the dude's hip and those pouches seem like they're hovering a bit on his leg. Dude with the chaos backpack and torso has what appears to be some glue issues around his neck.

Also the cap in the back with the cable attached to his sword looks kinda questionable in >>50018201, might wanna just do away with it.

Just some stuff you might wanna take a look at.
>>
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Finished, exluding the base.
God, i hate those trimmings so BAD.
Thoughts?
>>
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>>50036372
back side. YEH
>>
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>>50036381
Needs more blending on the cape.

Needs more highlights in general.
>>
>>50036392
I suck at cloaks. literally the first one i ever painted. i agree but im scared to fuck up at this point.... Any tips?
Think ill just mix some russ grey with the fang and do a very light feathering
>>
>>50036367
>That sword looks kinda weird with the hand guard facing up on the dude's hip and those pouches seem like they're hovering a bit on his leg.
about half the squad was bought second hand, assembled but unpainted. The original owner seemed to think they were tacticool or something. Looking back on it, I should have tried to pry some of the sillier bits off.

>Dude with the chaos backpack and torso has what appears to be some glue issues around his neck.
The head normally doesn't sit like that so I had to GS a bit... and like everything I do it came out like shit. I am hoping my future attempts go better.

>Also the cap in the back with the cable attached to his sword looks kinda questionable ... might wanna just do away with it.
I know the conversion is bad, but is it really *that* bad that I should can the whole model?
>>
>>50036408
do some layers thinned with medium for shadows and highlights
>>
Made a new thread
>>50036742
Thread posts: 327
Thread images: 95


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