WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

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>>49509517
>>49509772
>>49509890
>>49511656

I'm just gonna make one last call to attention to this, afterwards I promise I'll stop asking about it in WIP threads. Just looking for ideas.
Perhaps asking in the 40k general would be better anyway.

>>49529249
There being a major "blessing" on a traitor guard army seems like too much attention especially considering human lives are so cheap in 40k and your renegade infantry all die horribly when shot at. Maybe shift the blessing to the leaders and have the mooks engage in rituals to see the world as their leaders do.

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>>49529318

Sound reasoning.
The main focus of the army is gonna be a Psykana detachment who ran afoul of a few Daemons they didn't handle as well as they thought they did. After that, they managed to pull a few Knight Titans and a bunch of infantry under their sway.
So Psykana is the focus of the army with the Knights playing pretty important roles in the "protect the squishy little wizards" department while the big infantry platoon runs around their feet like abnormally large but still insignificant ants.

>>49529249
Someone's been posting Khorne traitor guard that wear facemasks from the Harlequin kit. I'd nab that idea. Also, as others have said, most of your army or all of it are expendable pawns. I wouldn't bless them with anything more than mutations like you see on the Gene cultists. But your HQ isn't expendable like the others or is he? . Tzeentch has great plans in mind for him or does he?

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here we go with the drop pod, only 3 more shafts and then unto details.

If you dont have airgun/airbrush then painting drop pods its a complete bitch.

>>49529813
I'm sorry to inform you that even with an airbrush they are faggots to paint.

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>>49529249
Not so much a fluff suggestion as a conversion related one:
Plonk these heads onto your dudes to make them Vulturemen in style of the Keeper of Secrets.

Which actually gives me an idea for the fluff too:
Make them all the Keepers of A secret. They all learn on thing, something so terrible it may drive them mad but they can never talk to anyone about it.

WIP, due to some locational circumstances I need some help with ventilation for my airbrush.

I'm currently on a college campus and there are pretty much only two places I can airbrush; in my dorm, and in the art building which is pretty much perpetually busy, extremely public, and not very conducive to work.

Unfortunately, my dorm's windows do not open and the door opens into an indoors hallway, so airbrushing in there (even with an extractor) will be a bit difficult. Besides the ventilation issue, there's also the problem of smell.

Is there a way to build or use an extractor that would solve both of these problems, or do I just need to suck it up and use the public workshop?

>>49529470
So perhaps tzeentch "gifts" the pskyers skewed foresight or in their dreams they see the desires or inner nature of those they encounter laid bare?

>>49529877
>do I just need to suck it up and use the public workshop?
Is there a problem with that?
I mean you can always put your stuff in front of a window and turn a ventilator so that it sucks the overspray and expels it out the window.
Like a lowtech ghetto spray booth.

>>49529916
>Is there a problem with that?
Not particularly, but I'd prefer to be able to paint and work in privacy, rather than having to do so around people with their own projects to work on. Additionally, the workshop actually only has one ventilator booth of its own, and it's a huge room more meant for mass spray painting than airbrushing; I don't think it's possible to get an hour or two to myself without forcing others to wait.

>I mean you can always put your stuff in front of a window and turn a ventilator so that it sucks the overspray and expels it out the window.
Unfortunately, my windows do not open. They're less "windows", and more "slabs of glass mounted in the wall".

There are ventilation ducts I could probably use, but I am extremely reluctant to do so unless I am sure that I could eliminate nearly all of the smell and particulate matter.

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Done. Thinking of splashing some Blood for the Blood God on the front for a splatter effect.

>>49530006
Looks good, anon. I'd leave it as-is.

>>49529976
>There are ventilation ducts I could probably use, but I am extremely reluctant to do so unless I am sure that I could eliminate nearly all of the smell and particulate matter.
I sprayed a few times - with spraycans though - indoors, with papers layed out around the container I sprayed on and a big box behind to catch all the overspray.
If you put the box afterwards outside the smell is not that bad.

Not sure what you mean with that anyway if you are using an airbrush. Aren't most paints used for models acrylics anyway or alcohol based?

Anyway I think with an airbrush you won't have nearly has much problems with overspray and such. You'll be fine unless you are using some super special paint and thinner that melts your lungs.

>>49530139
>Anyway I think with an airbrush you won't have nearly has much problems with overspray and such. You'll be fine unless you are using some super special paint and thinner that melts your lungs.
It's not so much that -I'm- concerned about the smell, I'm concerned that my roommates will be concerned about the smell.

Eh, whatever; I'll give it a go once and see if they're okay with it; if not, I'll just have to use the public workshop.

Thanks for the advice, anon.

>>49530164

GW paints and other acrylics are nearly odorless unless you use smelly thinners or are literally huffing the spray. It's just aerosolized acrylics: that's just water and paint pigment.

>>49529846
Oh bother....

At least pelase tell me the flat surfaces are easier to paint.

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Please excuse the shitty pictures.

My Sisters of Battle force is slowly growing. Pewter miniatures cast in 1996 have been retrieved from the depths of forgotten rural game stores...

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>>49530988
...supplemented by things from other ranges and other catalogs, drawn into the Imperial fold...

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>>49531000
...and new resin miniatures of astonishing quality... and fragility.

So I am thinking of starting to varnish my miniatures. I heard Citadels Purity Seal is really good, can anyone attest to this?

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>>49531008
And a big fuck-off Penitent Knight as well.

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Well, I got most of the big basecoatings done on my knight. Still a lot to go.

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Some more Deathwatch doods- Raven Guard sniper and Black Templar assault marine.

>>49531135
The edging on that sword is a little rough (it gets wider towards the tip), but damn, that's some nice red and metallic work. Airbrush?

Also, you should drill out the barrel on your stubber.

>>49531207
no airbrush, just a couple layers of each color.

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I was too lazy to come up with my own design so I stole a board setup from some guy in /wip/

My plan is to have dried mud flows and high water marks on the building, like it was flooded then dried up again. A vindicare will be in the second story of the building with his rifle out the window pointed at my warboss, who will be in a battlewagon in a motorcade rolling down the road. Ill have a print out card with something along the lines of "Assassination attempt on Warboss MegaKrump in the ruins of Arcturis, one of the cities flooded by the mega tsunami created when MegaKrump's Space Hulk flagship the 'Ardfist plunged into the ocean on Tellaris V."

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Production lines make me sad.

Takes a while for progress to show and starts to demotivate

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This is a good idea.

>>49531479
Even if it's less efficient, this is why I do all mine individually. I'm not in a rush, and I enjoy painting. Might as well do it the way I can feel like I've accomplished something.

Plus, I have to do each one in one sitting. Works better this way.

>>49531135
Sharpen your sword anon.
Use a file or even a bit of brick then sand paper instead of a knife so you can control it.

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1/3
painting up some FBI type SWAT to be an inquisitorial kill-team

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>>49531828
guy running with invisible shotgun and heavy armor

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>>49531839
scale with an old metal kasrkin

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>>49531600

I might have to start, it's sad to see an evenings work look like i've barely done anything... My painting style doesn't help.

I did this guy in about 2 hours and it's much more satisfying seeing a finished mini than over a dozen of barely started ones... That still took hours! (sorry for repost)

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Finished leather set, dunno what I'll do next. Suggestions? Thoughts are;

-Screaming Fur set
-Whtie Lion Set
-Black knight, both squires, percival
-White speaker, white speaker pinup, white speaker christmas

>>49532017
There seems to be some constructional oversight on the weighted axe lady in that her axe is going below the base.

I do appreciate the surface wear on the fronts of the shields and the belts for them.

>>49532052
It wasn't an oversight but thank you anyway. The angle makes it look farther than it actually is. Originally it "was" meant to be higher, yes, but I didn't have anything on hand to hold it in place as it cured, and as a result it slumped :( It's just barely off table, but something I'll be preventing in the future :)

And thanks for the complement on the wear! That's exactly what i was going for and was a little worried I'd gone a little tooooooooo sloppy/rough with the paint.

>>49532002
That looks awesome

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Sorry for the repost but in the last thread I got asked about the nmm on the Flower Knight. For the steel I have just used the greys in the Scale 75 Shades of Doom set. For the bronze I have used a base of Vallejo model air mahogany, then Vallejo game colour leather brown, followed by mixing in highlights of Scale 75 Mars Orange, and Lilith Yellow, with the mahogany used as a wash to mute it all so it is less golden looking.

>>49531600
>>49532002
I usually do 2 or 3 at a time - that way, you can still make some progress without it getting too tedious. But I might have to go down to one at a time too, to make it fun, even though I have a zillion guys waiting.

>>49531695
I tried that. I just couldn't achieve a balanced edge on both sides of the blade. I know, I suck.

Who is more TACTICOOL, deathwatch or tau?

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So I might be purchasing two Dreadnoughts to make a diorama at some point in the far future when money allows. The plan is to get an Ironclad and convert it into a Chaos Dreadnought (Fuck the Helbrute, too many fleshy bits) and a Venerable Dreadnought to be the loyalist one, and then have them tearing each other apart.

How does this look for an Iron Warriors Dreadnought? I think they're the warband I'd end up doing.

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This is probably the first thing I've painted in over 15 years.

1992 mini, so full of delicious lead poisoning.

Only flats so far. Gonna do highlights next, and and then most likely fuck everything up when I try shading.

Since I'm a shit photographer, I've zoomed in too close and made him look more lumpy and uneven than he really appears to the naked eye.

>>49532313
I wish my gradients were that smooth.

Are there any files I should particularly look for or will any needle file do for removing mould lines and such?

>>49533546

Strip him and start again.

I'm serious. If you tried to just paint over a paint job from 15 years ago, it's gonna look like ass.

>but I didn't

The fact the paint looks thick, is filling in details, and has a grainy texture to it says otherwise.

>But all I did was spray/base coat it.

Then you fucked up and need to fix it.

>>49533831
You misread. It's the first thing he's painted in 15 years, not something he painted 15 years ago that he repainted.

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still far from done but taking a lot of time with this one. the paint went on a little thick on the silver part on his thigh. has anyone ever scraped paint off a mini before to fix this?

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>>49533858
gonna go back on the mid tones on the cloak as well..

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>>49532313
mmm.... exquisite. Keep us updated, please.

The picture is something that I've been working for many years now, adding pieces and painting details. Still a lot to do, though. BFG - Tyranid hiveship.

>>49533435
Shoot man, you don't even need to convert it into chaos-y stuff, Ironclad looks fine alone. You could say that it's heresy-era boxnoughts duking it out, or during the scouring, when chaos stuff wasn't as prominent.

>>49533171
Deathwatch.

>>49533831
This model has spent the last 15 years or so rolling around in my toolbox and getting completely fucked up. He hasn't been stripped, because he has never been painted.

The lumps and divots on the shoulder are mostly damage to the metal.

That said, I had coverage problems with the red, white, and the green base, and I really don't know why.

No such problems with the brown, silver or flesh, though.

>>49533921
I was going to mostly make it look more like the metal Chaos Dreadnought that's out of production now, add some various trims and probably replace the sarchophagus plate with an open one from the Venerable Dreadnought kit, but keep the segmented side plates.

I think it'd be cool, but damn dreadnoughts are fucking expensive. And I've got enough projects as it is, I guess...

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wip shot of my rooster rider. Need to do his feet and do some lilly pads. Whatcha guys think

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More work on this killer can o´ beans, lots to clean up and highlight etc. Anyone know where i could buy 60-70mm round lip bases? I searched high and low from various websites and i could only find up to 50mm and 80-120mm.

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Been working on my layering skills and I'm pretty proud of my blightkings. Do you guys approve?

>>49533546
Looks really good, looking forward to washes and highlights.

Fucking jealous at how crisp you did the pupils

>>49533912

Aren't hive ships entirely biological though?

>>49534355

Very vibrant, very clean though your brightest highlights could do with a better transition in some spots. Take the underlying color, mix it with a lot of glaze medium or varnish and carefully make the transition a little better.

You should also take a look at vallejo rust washes if you want to make it dirtier at some point.

>>49534355
Anon I think you should do some nasty yellow puss filled boils/zits. Other than that I think they are super fabulous!

>>49533546
>how crisp you did the pupils

Those were a few tense moments with a magnifying glass.

I'm not expecting the final result to look great, but since this is just an old mini and primary reason for doing this is mostly curiosity over whether shakey-handed self can still do it, I'll be content if it merely looks average. I'm not expecting a display piece.

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>>49534681

Carefully apply a light brown wash around the eyelids to give the eyesocket more depth. Old minis best minis.

>>49530006
The only thing I would recommend is to do the grey highlight near the red cross on the shoulder pad just like how it is on the front chest. Otherwise it looks weirdly flat.

Other than that it looks great.

>>49531062
oooh, sexy mask

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Roughly a week ago, I asked if non-physical WIP projects are welcome in this thread, (namely a map making software I started work on 3-4 weeks ago).

Back then, someone told me anything's fine as long as it's /tg/ related (which it being a battlemat map maker, I suppose it is), so I just hope I'm not intruding on hallowed grounds with my decisively non-artistic project. Still, since it was someone on /tg/ who asked for such a program to be made in the first place, I thought it'd be only right to post it.

I could go on for like 2-3 paragraphs more, but I think it's probably best if I just leave it here.
Got two versions for each platform, in case someone wants a smaller download Google can actually scan, see the Download Help for more.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-wYViIb_LYncXNRVVNCN000bjg

tl,dr; of the Readme inside:
>The thing (so far) is basically http://pyromancers.com/dungeon-painter-online/ without the texture library
>Pretty much any .png files you have can be used as objects/walls/tiles/etc as long as you put it in the approriate places
>Images of any desired resolution can be exported
>Made with Unity because I'm a heretic with no time to code a brand new engine, and it's pretty good for small projects like this

If I'm an idiot for posting this here, do tell and I'll make a thread instead.

>>49535193
I guess it's technically fine, but it might be better to start a thread of your own, since they're still pretty different topics.

>>49535226
Yeah miight do it even if no one outright tells me it doesn't belong, though I'm not sure how long I'll be available just now, and if I properly start a thread, I'd feel obligated to stay and answer any questions. (Which I'll still do, if there are any, but with a whole thread, comes great responsibility.)

>>49533858
>▶
any ideas on spot removing thick layers of paint ?

>>49534182
Liking it so far. Malifaux model? The water effects are great.
There's a moldline running down his torso tho.

>>49535925
Acetone on a cotton swab might work, at least on metal models. Or denatured alcohol for plastic (or either)

>>49534355
>>49534587
A note about boils: they aren't just yellow bubbles, instead real boils have a dark black core at the center and then a sickly yellow halo around that core.

That said, if you do it too well it actually looks genuinely revolting, so perhaps you might want something a little more fantastical and unreal.

>>49536037
You are gonna be fine if you don't submerge the plastic or let acetone pool on it.
It will evaporate before it can melt the plastic if you just use a cotton swap.

>>49531828
Really cool, these guys have a lot more character than a lot of generic modern military type dudes.

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Just need to work on the green stuff, and then finally paint it.

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has anyone here checked if the new Genestealer Neophytes sprues are compatible with with the cadians. cause i kinda like some of the stuff they have but by the looks they would work better with space marine bitz.

picture only somewhat related old cadian squad of mine i repainted

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>>49531579
Oh GW, why must you rip off the vidya? First Tyranids, now this

>>49536484
There will be a conversion kit put up for pre-order on Saturday which is seemingly specifically designed for Cadians. At least all the preview images, and the modelling guide is for them.

Octobers White Dwarf has pictures of converted shock troops, and a Leman Russ tank with a Neophyte Tank Commander and a bunch of cultish symbols plastered on the thing.

Is there any reason I shouldn't thin my paints with airbrush thinner instead of water?

>>49536669
none, but water is quite a bit cheaper.

>>49536704
Well, yeah. But I've been doing it for a while, and it just feels like it paints way smoother. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't fucking up my paintjobs for later.

>>49536669
>Get an empty Tide bottle (The big one with a spigot on it)
>wash it out
>pour in a bottle of isopropyl alchohol
>Full the rest with water
>Shake

There, a gallon of airbrush thinner with a convenient dispenser

>>49536716

That's what thinner is for...

>>49536729
...What percentage alcohol? I might just mix up a half ounce bottle.

>>49536793

Doesn't matter. Higher percent just means add more water. 70 is cheaper than 90+.

Although I wouldn't use a detergent bottle that's just ghetto and nasty. Even though a drop of soap can be a great thinner ingredient. I recommend a clean empty ketchup bottle that they sell in stores for like $1. Fill that with water and thinner and you can drip or dribble it out the end or squeeze long squirts out.

>>49536842
I have an empty dropper.

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Deathwatch squad WIP

I have heaps of work left to do on the Black Templar, and all of them need to be armour highlighted.

Other than that, what do you guys think?

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Working on some ruins to decorate my Stormraven bases. I plan to make some crumbled pillars as well.

>>49532002
The skin tone us amazing. Can you post a step by step? Thanks

>>49536457

Are you using a green bulb?

>>49536959
Those look crackin'.

Also nice to see I'm not the only cheapass using Army Painter.

>>49537091

Army Painter isn't even cheap, man. Shit costs almost as much as Vallejo and the cans cost as much as GW.

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>>49536979
And a quick variant to represent Big E.

>>49537112
Well, I guess everything is cheapass when you compare it to the scumfuck GW prices.

>>49536499
You sure GoW isn´t a rip off tough?

>>49536499
Gr8 b8 m8 I r8 8/8.

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Dubs decides the colour scheme for the Skitarii Start Collecting box I just picked up. I want to do something different from the standard red, was leaning towards blue or yellow.

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>>49534511
Yes, unless an expedition from Mars is dumb enough to try to catch live tyranids.

>>49537864
green robes, yellow markings and eyes.

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>>49537864
Iron Warriors demand your service.

>>49537063
Yes. It was on sale, and the money was going to veterans.

>>49537864
Yellow armor and bone cloth. Include a small amount of red on weapons and backpacks.

>>49537864
>Dub
Do hazmat yellow, I've seen blue more often than yellow.

>>49537885

It would be extremely painful

>>49537922
I don't know about a fluorescent hazmat yellow, but yellow it is then!

>>49537885
Well, somehow the Iron Warriors by the time of "Storm of Iron" use a tech-virus modified Tyranic hive carrier as a transport for their Titans.
They must have captured that at some point, I imagine it would be easier if it were captured in the earliest vanguard fleets, which were smaller than the later invasion fleets.

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I'm hung up on what colour scheme I want to paint Astorath with. Was thinking just his original colours but now I am tempted to go red and black seeing as I am playing him in a Death Company Army.

Sorry for the shitty lighting.

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Guys. I think I'm actually improving.

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I'll hit those bonding studs with some ink, I must have missed them.

>>49538149
Looks good from here. Lighting makes it hard to make out the details. But I mostly good by the 2 feet rule.

I am preparing a knight to magnetise and paint during christmas. I have read a few tutorials for the whole thing, but has anyone here done it before? Any extra advice would be great

>>49536959
How the fuck do you do the faces, I'm a newfag.

>>49538149

Yep, dark eye lenses aside that's pretty neat. Don't be afraid to go much more towards orange on the highlights. Look up duncan's guide on how to do it.

>>49538390
In many ways, apart from the eyes that is, you can let the plastic do all the work.
a smooth coat of a skin tone of your choice, a wash, and then picking out the raised areas with the original skin tone will give you a pretty well defined face in an instant.

The eyes are more difficult, and one of the areas I'm pretty bad myself, but essentially painting the eye black, picking out the corners with white gets you most of the way there, and can stand up to scrutiny from the usual tabletop distance, just not up close.

>>49538458
>>49538390

Sorry fucked up the link

http://www.thewaaaghstudios.com/tutorials/facepaint.html

>>49538453
What tone do you use for the face? I've tried using the barbarian flesh out of the army painter starter, tried lightening it up and still every guy I make comes out looking like a tanned guido.

>>49538453
>>49538498
Also a good rule to follow is when painting the eye colour be sure that it touches the top and bottom eye lid for size.

>>49538498
Barbarian Flesh is about the right tone I think, a mid-tone flesh colour.
The wash might be the issue then.
I assume you're going for Strong tone, which would result in quite a brown shade (ie. rather tan).
I'd personally go for the soft tone, and then going back over with the Barbarian Flesh, leaving only the recesses darkened.
With a final light dry-brush of a lighter skin-tone (say 2:1 Barbarian Flesh : White, with perhaps a tiny drop of necrotic flesh added), less is more here, don't go in too heavy.

>>49538637
What I've done is use barbarian flesh and then a wash of flesh wash. What do you mean when you say soft tone?

Where to cop third party Crisis suits?

>>49538682
Flash wash is the right one.
Soft Tone is just the name Army Painter uses for a similar shade in their Quick Shade Ink line.
As you said you had an army painter starter, I incorrectly assumed you'd be using their washes as well.

If your faces turn out too tanned, then perhaps you should be a little more liberal in rebuilding the original colour over the wash.
You really only want the flesh wash to be visible in the recesses, the rest should be your base colour really.
Then you add a light highlight on the most raised areas with the light dry-brush.

>>49538749
Flesh* Wash that is.

>>49538749
gotcha, the only ink I got with the set is a strong tone, but I'll try that and see how it turns out. Thanks.

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Working on my fifth looted tank for da boyz.

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So I just throw models in this stuff without diluting it first, let them soak overnight, and then just scrub them repeating the process as needed?

I read the thread in OP but it doesn't mention anything about diluting or not diluting pic related.

And this stuff has no chance of melting plastic right?

>>49538801
Zoog et' is bootehful

>>49531479
>FRESH COUNTERS

>>49538801
I seen da 'umies wid dis 'un, dey calls it da deestroya tank 'unter.

Roight killy it is.

>>49538839
You can always test it on a model before dumping your whole army in it

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How would you guys go about doing a swamp base, similar to this pic.

I wanted to re-base a couple of my Tau, currently they're just on some rocks/desert sand and it feels a bit bland.

I got a couple of ideas with Crisis suits and cypress knees/fallen logs but I'm not really sure what to do with my smaller units, the bases are pretty tight which means I can't add a bunch of detail around them.
Can't decided if it'd be best to just go for some deep rough mud, fill the base with some shallow water around the ankles, or just cut their legs off at the knee and make some fake water?

Anyone done anything like this? Got any tips/tricks on what I can do, any ideas on how to do details? Read that you can mix some paint with cotton to make spanish moss, figured that could be pretty cool.

>>49539355
I'm testing it out on my already-fucked-up guys.

Lucky when I was new to the hobby soaked an entire terminator squad in paint thinner to try to strip them with predictable results.

In other news, the nitrile gloves would have probably been a good idea. My hands feel rather dry and dusty after only a few minutes of being in contact with the stuff.
The good news is that it already seems to be stripping the pain off everything I put in.

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Working on an Iron Hands captain in termie armor.

>>49534217
I am not sure mate. But I am replying to let you know people read your post. They probably just do not know themselves. That is a really good looking model. The red/yellow contrast gives it a brutal style. As though it is glowing hot.

Here's a question. How much of a pain would it be to give stuff a melted look using acetone?

>>49540032
Depends how much you get in your eyes.

>>49540032
Acetone might work. More likely to completely destroy what you are trying to work on though.

I used plastic glue to make burn scars on some of my minis before. That worked reasonably well.
Apply the glue, wait until the plastic is slightly softened up and then use a needle to sculpt it.

Somebody posted a while ago a guide to purchase brushes and other painting materials to aliexpress and picking up amazing quality for money, but I have lost it. Anyone has it?

>>49536959
Requiem ?

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So i have this guy, its to big to be a truck. so i have decided it will be a battle wagon.
im just trying to figure out what to do with the back end.
im thinking kannon or mega blasta.
any thoughts?

>>49539540
Again, I love seeing your IH in the thread. He's looking great. I got most of my 30k Hands done over the summer.

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any thoughts on which traitor scheme for my knights? Leaning towards far right at the moment

>>49540309
I'm like 80% sure I bought the exact same firetruck to make into a mad max inspired vehicle the other day.

Truely we are of kindred spirit anon.

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First attempt at painting stuff pls be gentle

>>49539377

Like exactly like that or closeish? I'd paint the base up and base it in mud and branches, some sticking up high. stick the tau inside and cover the sides. Then fill about 1/4 inch or less with clear resin.

Following that do bright flock for the small water plants.

Actual tree foliage could be clipped from aquarium plants and glued on.

Also painting a sheet of paper with muddy greens and then using a hole punch makes syrprisingly good lillypads.

>>49540438
Some thinning necessary.
Lenses are somewhat low-contrast, but that's okay if that's what you're going for.
Could use a matte varnish.
I'm not familiar with the chapter scheme, is it custom? I admit I'm not all that well-versed.

Other than that, quite good; better than my first miniature.

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>>49540462
Thanks anon will look into that, gotta admit its a bit hard to tell a lot of the details until seen through a camera.
Most of the time it feels like pic related.

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Working on a 28mm Berlin, still have to build and cast rubble for it.

>>49540484
Yeah, I know what you mean. My Skitarii look a lot worse in a camera than they do in person. Your paint's very good, certainly at tabletop level at the very least (depends on your local community; I'm used to two-tone or entirely-unpainted models), and it seems like you've got the technique down overall. The only really iffy parts as far as paint thickness are in the chest and belt area.

And I know the feeling. All my dudes have cloaks to paint the inside of, too. Very much "my brush is too big to reach these crevices" sometimes.

Hey guys!

I'm a long time lurker, but am fairly new to the modeling side of the hobby itself. And as such, I've just started painting some models and I'm not too sure about priming. I know cool and dry are the best conditions, and for me (Dallasfag) seeing them together is fairly rare.

I want to prime some guys today with the Leadbelcher undercoat, and the humidity's sitting at 40-45%, and its 75 degrees.

Is this good condition to prime? If not, when?

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I finished my latest Imperial Assault project over the weekend, this SC2-M Repulsor Tank. It's easily the happiest I've been with a paint job (I'm still pretty new to painting).

To the right is a reference photo (from the 501st Legion) I'm using to help on my next project, General Sorin. It's even the same basic pose as the figure. I haven't done much human skin tone so far, and I could use some pointers on it. How do I highlight fairly small areas of skin?

Also, yesterday was a beautiful day, low humidity, and little wind. A perfect day to prime figures, and I did. I have more than 20 waiting to be painted after I finish this guy.

Beginenr here, got my first set of Ass Terminators today. What'S the recommended way to painting them? Piece by piece, then putting them together or first putting the whole thing together and then painting?

Also, how worth it is magnetizing Terminators?

>>49536979
Awesome! Let us see the printed product when you can

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>>49531062

What would be the best way to make a building seem as though it was flooded?

My idea is to paint up the building, then leave it in a tub filled with water with a bit of paint mixed in, then let all the water dry up naturally naturally, giving it genuine mater mark lines

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>>49540605
>I haven't done much human skin tone so far, and I could use some pointers on it. How do I highlight fairly small areas of skin?

Not a big deal.
Mostly do the base color, maybe apply a wash if you like to work that way and highlight the cheeckbones, bridge of the nose, chin and forehead.
If he's wearing a helmet I'd forget highlighting the upper parts of his face and start at the tip of the nose and the cheeckbones.

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>>49540605
>>49540771
There's also a pretty good article on CMON about painting faces with expressions.

Looking up how stage makeup is done, drag or contouring is also pretty insightful.
Same basic principles as painting a miniature really.

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>>49540636
>What'S the recommended way to painting them? Piece by piece, then putting them together or first putting the whole thing together and then painting?
I'd leave the stormshields off if you are using Hammernators, but other than that you can get everywhere with a brush even with a fully assembled termie.
>Also, how worth it is magnetizing Terminators?
Depends.
If you only do the Flamer/Asscannon on a specialist or the Cyclone launcher on an Assault Termie yeah.
If you magnetize EVERYTHING you'll end up with a hundred separate pieces and have to paint them all by themselves.
Painting another squad of termies is easier, faster and more fun desu.
You can trust me on that. I got a little carried away with the magnets.
>pic related.

>>49540706
Hehe.

It looks better painted. Still weird, but better.

>>49540771
>>49540787
Thanks for the tips and the pdfs, anon.

>>49540491
>28 mm Berlin

So, is that tank supposed to be the size of that base as a proxy?

>>49540438
Looks solid. Great start.

The highlights look like they could use thinner paint and more layers to look smoother. Also Base that shit.

>>49541066
Looks to be a pretty famous Pantherturm in Berlin (the one you almost always see in pictures of them), which was built on that base in the first place. I don't think the scale is too far off. Not that guy, though.

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>>49541066
It's a 28mm dug in Panther, yeah it's the right scale.

I'm doing some of the wider streets in Berlin so it's not just moving through difficult terrain for everyone all game. Some were narrow, but some like pic related were pretty wide.

>>49537912

Do you paint by that?

>We need to seduce the guard, WIZARD! Remove your beard.

>Kill that guy and take his sandwich, it will be a good final boss.

>Quick everyone piss on the floor, we can escape through it.

>Why is the Cleric stealing all the shit, and the rouge offering help?

>We'll name this goblin Munchy, just in case we run out of food in the desert.

>OH GOD MUNCHY YOUR HURT. MY BABY

>Do you think the boss is tired of getting a box full of dismembered body parts?

>>49541341
Wrong tab sorry

Help me out please, /WIP/. I'm waiting for the primer I usually get to restock even though I'm not very good at painting so I can paint my space skeletons again and I'm dying of boredom. Any ideas for some general Necron conversions so I can pass the time?
Any ideas for converting Necron Assassins?

>>49540755

Natural methods don't work on 28mm scale models, because your method is on the real life scale instead of 28mm. Same reason unpainted sand looks like shit, and how sand bases look like pebbles instead of smooth sand.

If you want to paint water damage just do a thin brown wash for dirty water up the sides, and repeat multiple times with each next layer ending lower than the last, as the lower parts have been submerged longest. Top it off with one careful thin line of wash or thinned down brown at the very top to give the surface water mark ring. Shades of yellow or black also work.

If you just half dunk it in paint water, it will just look like you dropped it in your water cup.

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Still a WIP, for example I'm going to paint a red star on the chest and a faction symbol on the shoulder, but I've been wanting thoughts on this overall color scheme for the Al Fasid from Infinity.

>>49541982
Ill do test pieces for both methods and post results

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>>49541341
>>49541361

Anyone got any ideas how I can make my snow terrain stand out for armies on parade?

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>>49542470

jesus it might have been better if you just didn't highlight at all.

>>49536959
Your painting style is quite crisp and you do pretty thin and flat layers, that's good. I'm looking to see you clean up some of the edge highlights on the models and possibly add another lighter highlight to them. Especially on the black armour

>>49542470
I think you work on your edge highlighting before graduating to doing layering

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>>49542883
>>49542843
My other WIP, if you dare click the spoiler.

>>49534217
I can only describe the red and yellow you're using as "rich", nicely done

>>49540331
Middle

>>49542905
That looks alright, some colours work better with the whole 3-layer highlighting style that you're doing. Grey is not one of those colours

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She's finished!

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Making this thing actually makes me want to do a proper 6 for tactical objective games.
Does anyone have any ideas for Space Marine, Imperial Guard, or Imperial Knight objectives?

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>>49542961

Hopefully this comes out non- sideways... :\

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>>49542979
Her glorious backside

>>49542978
A (presumed) lost IG Standard from a legendary regiment?

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>>49543011
>Those mold lines

COME ON SON

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>>49540491
Road has been partially painted, want to try a textured spray paint for the road itself, figures for scale and to give an idea of context

thoughts?

>>49543051
I guess the Panther and the buildings are also WiP too now that I think about it.

So many projects...

>>49533858
>Turquoise cloak

Looks nice with the khorne color scheme, I'm stealing that, fuck highlighting grey all day.

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>>49543028
:(

Ammo caches are always a good universal objective marker. Banners, something that looks like an imperial relic, the other parts for that knight, power supply, comms relay

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>>49543107

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>>49543180

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WIP Skybasha Clan for my AoS Ironjawz.

>>49540309
Did you build that up yourself? Fucking impressive, I love it.. Reminds me of a fire truck, turned Mad Maxx style

>>49542978
Wounded HQs and Standards.

Soldiers will be deployed to rescue a superior or their colors. Bonus points for an Ollanius Pius banner.

>>49543275
Nice name to go with the bright silver. Speaking of orruks, does anyone have good tips for converting ironjawz into orks?

>>49542961
>>49542979
>>49543011
>>49543107
>>49543180
>>49543256
>having a trip after painting one mediocre model

Muma-kill yourself, faggot.

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>>49543862
>Bonus points for an Ollanius Pius banner.

*BONUS* bonus points for a Duncanius Rhodius banner!

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Guys, rate my jump pack captn dude with a beakie

I feel like the armour is messy, and even though I work hard I never seem to get a smooth result like I see around here

>>49543974

>I don't know what a trip is
Clearly

>>49544012
Solid just you need to thin the paint by doing some brush strokes on a palet before painting him.

The eyes are excellent I still struggle on making lenses look good.

>>49544020
Cancer.

A trip and similar forms of namefagging are only used by egocentric retards and generally the most cancerous people on this site.

Again, help us make America great again by killing yourself, retard

>>49544094

Namefags and tripfags are indeed cancer. All I'm saying is that there is a very obvious difference between them.

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>>49543974
>Muma-kill yourself

anyone got a picture of a dwarf miniature that an anon painted a while back; he messed up on it and somehow managed to make it look feminine cause he made the the eyes look like anime eyes?

>>49544012
In the words of the god emperor Duncan, "make sure to do multiple layers of thin coat"

On the other hand, you actually have a pretty good grasp of the colours to achieve NMM.

Assembling Space Marines for the first time.

Are the shoulderpads right or left arm specific? Or are they interchangable?

>>49545137
>Are the shoulderpads right or left arm specific
Yes, for the most part they are, at least fluffwise.

What Chapter are you planning on and what role are the Space Marines you're making?

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Sarus are coming along. Yellow over blue and black is a pain in the ass to paint.

>>49545234
I'm making smurfs. I know that left shoulder has Ultra symbol and right has the squad type. But I'm worried that a shoulder piece I pick to glue on (before I even get to the paining part) might look off.

>>49545235
Undercoat yellow, problem solved.

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>>49545326
You shouldn't worry TOO MUCH about shoulder pads then.
The only real part you can go "wrong" (besides the Chapter icon and squad type) is with the armor marks.

Generally, boxes of Tactical marines come with shoulder pads from Mark 6 through Mark 8.

Now, Mark 6 and Mark 7 shoulder pads can be mixed to your hearts content, as can Mark 7 and 8 pads, but Mark 6 and Mark 8 CANNOT be mixed.

However, the only real difference between Mark 7 and Mark 8 is with the gorget, so all this means is don't give a guy with a gorget on his chest a Beakie helmet, a smooth shoulder pad, and/or a shoulder pad with molecular bonding studs (these just look like bumps) on it.

Speaking of Beakie/Mk. 6 armor, the bumpy shoulder pad ALWAYS goes on the marines left arm (his left, not yours), and the smooth shoulder pad goes on his right shoulder.

Also, just note that the legs for the armor marks are also different.
Strangely enough, Tactical marine kits come with 1 set of Mark 4 legs along with the usual Mark 6-8 legs.
Don't worry though, legs are easy to tell apart; Mark 4 legs have square/rectangular knee pads, Mark 6 legs have no kneepads, and Mark 7/8 legs have round knee pads.

Now, he same rules for shoulder pads apply to the legs: Mark 8 guys can't use any other legs than Mark 7, and everyone else can generally use whatever.

You'll get the hang of this as time goes on, don't worry.
You can also just toss all of this out and say "fuck it, the Chapter's Techmarines are awesome and made everything compatible with everything."

It's entirely up to you m8.

>>49536959
i love the face tatt on the Black Templar.

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>>49542978
I posted these in WIP thread along time ago, here are some of my Imperial Guard objective markers.

>>49531038
>I heard Citadels Purity Seal is really good
No.
Testors or vallejo.

>>49544012
THIN YOUR PAINTS.

That's the #1 problem for pretty much everyone who struggles to get their minis looking professional.

Aside from that, he's not bad at all. The weak points are mostly the insignia on his front and shoulder.

The back came out nice, as did the helmet. I can't tell if the scuffs on his forehead are intentional or not, but it looks like it could be battle damage, so it works either way.

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>>49545964

>>49545902
Painting blue over yellow would also be a pain.
Yellow is the primadonna of colors.

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>>49545972

>>49536499
Not sure if bait, child or just fucking stupid.

>>49540438
Impressed by how round you got that gun barrel. For a brief moment I thought it was drilled.

>>49545977
Look, I get that the Imperium really likes their purity seals, but the guardsman that stuck one on the on the fuckin' oil barrels needs to fuck right off.

His hearts in the right place at least.

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>>49542978

>>49545909
>only real difference between Mark 7 and Mark 8 is with the gorget

Also the spherical bulge on the inner ankle, place covering the abdominal cables and MkIV style extended vambraces that cover the wrist joint. The helmet is also a little different from the typical MkVII helmet to better fit the bevor.

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>>49546019
It starts to make sense when you imagine purity seals as Imperial duct tape.

>>49546043
>spherical bulge on the inner ankle
>MkIV style extended vambraces that cover the wrist joint
>slight helmet changes from MkVIII
Huh, do the Tactical marine kits come with these bits?
I never noticed any of these little details while making any of my own dudes.

I know there's legs with bumps on the ankle that come in the Devastator kit, are these MkVIII legs?

What what about the other Mark 8 bits, are any hidden in the other kits?

Deathwatch Veterans don't count.

>>49546055
>Attaching holy symbols to something makes it less hole-y
Malal grows stronger in the wake of this newfound contradiction.

>>49546165
>do the Tactical marine kits come with these bits?
There's a set of mk8 legs in the sternguard set, otherwise you're stuck with sanguinary guard and deathwatch for proper MK8 sets.

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>>49546165
>Devastator kit

No, that's just MkVI with slightly different leg brace thing.

Sternguard comes with one pair of such legs. Other than Deathwatch, I can't say there are many plastic kits that have them.

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So here's last nights old, dinged up lead scout.

I did something sinful. I varnished him. Mostly because I don't have a wide selection of paints and washes, and didn't feel like dropping cash on them for what's really just a test.

Most of the highlights I put in were too subtle - partly due to my lack of paints and partly due to the varnish. He's way shiny at the moment, but I don't have any dullcote at hand.

I cannot for the life me take a picture that actually represents how this dude looks to the naked eye. Putting my camera in macro mode makes imperfections your eye can barely see even with the thing held up to your face, but that's the only way I can get it to focus.

That spot on the shoulder where it's obvious the varnish dried with two bubbles on it? It's barely visible in reality.

I'm pretty happy with his face.

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>>49546019
Look, if your job was to strap two tanks of flammable liquid to your back and charge at the enemy, you'd want to make sure it was pure and properly sanctified.

It's probably the equivalent of an inspection sticker, showing that the liquid was blessed and assayed on such and such a date, by such and such a priest, and that the prayers listed were intoned over it in the correct manner.

>painting any sort of bright yellow over black primer
holy christ, the xv-88 and averland go over okay, but the second it comes time for yriel yellow everything goes to shit
this commission is not worth my time

>>49546281
Perhaps it might have been idea to prime the areas that were going to be yellow with white.

But that would mean priming with a brush.

making a custom chapter but still wanting to use bling is suffering. I don't want to sand down symbols either, so I guess I'll be painting the ultramarine symbols anyways or something.

>>49540438

It's not terrible but the golden sunglass lenses look a bit out of place due to all the gold around it. Would have been better as green, purple or yellow.

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Finished my last batch of nobz

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And whole crew together.

>>49542905

Not as bad as the other one but they're called EDGE highlights, not the-whole-area-around-the-edge hightlights. If you practice on getting your edge lines thinner and add a bit more glaze medium/varnish to your transition paint (yellow in this case), you can create a much smoother transition from orange to yellow.

All in all, you are probably going to get some pretty sweet looking models if you correct just these things, which you can learn in a couple of hours.

Don't worry about it, keep practicing and you'll get there.

>>49543275
that's a good base, i will be interested in seeing the final result

>>49543011

Shame about the mold lines, and the ropes need to be a lot tighter but for a speedpaint job it's pretty good. I feel the lord of the rings vibe from it.

>>49543974
>getting this easily triggered
Muma-mummify yourself

>>49544012

I think you need to stat using something else to thin your paints because you seem to have good control but if the paint isn't cooperating, it'll turn out grainy and patch regardless.

Varnish, flow improver and glaze mediums tend to help control your paint better while giving smoother results.

>>49544147

Newfag era ended in 2012, most of them have adapted by now. These days it's mostly the facebook and reddit crowd flowing in and not knowing basic etiquette. Why bother with an anonymous board if you crave recognition after all.

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How do I get this purple shade on the Chitin and robe?

>>49546598
Hella blending

>>49546630
well yeah, but with which purple colors?

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What GW paints would you recommend if I wanted to paint my Taurox in the same pink as the SAS Pink Panther Jeep /wip/?

>>49546791
Hmm, a light brown base, and then layer with ushabti bone with just a tiny drop of wazzdakka red perhaps

You should definitely experiment before Painting. I have no idea what would work well

>>49546704

Looks like liche purple with screamer pink to me, but there should be an official guide in the next white dwarf

>>49530006
Thin your goddamn paints. The red crosses have paint that's really uneven and thickly caked on.

>>49530988
> insert I have no mouth but I must scream meme here

>>49546791
Rakarth flesh with a drop of brown and red?

>>49543180
Beautiful painting

>>49534182
that's an impressive cock anon

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Any tips on painting glasses? I can only find tutorials on doing shiny effects on convex surfaces like jewels, and it looks weird when applied to glasses.

>>49547440
If you are going for highly reflective just paint it like sky-earth nmm.
Basically just have to paint the horizon line and do gradient over and under to make it look reflective.

Contrast determines how shiny/reflected they are. Paint it in colors and you got mirrorshades.

>>49547479
So a chrome effect, basically? Worth a shot, but that stuff seems so hard to pull off right.

>>49546351
>>49546360
Job's a good 'un, boss.

>>49547183
that isn't an official coloring though, just someone on their site doing re-colors.

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After work I'm going to lay down some sand on my Fishermen goal post for guild ball then some washes on the posts so they look less balsa woody. I'll possibly do some simple crab and starfish sculpts so the clam has some buddies

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>>49547515
It's not really.

Just paint the horizon line and add some highlights over that.
Have a look at this pic.

>>49538149
How did u pain the blue/green?

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>>49546198
>otherwise you're stuck with sanguinary guard and deathwatch for proper MK8 sets.

It depends on how old you are.

>>49546165
>>49546198

The new Death Watch Kill Team box has a ton of mk8 stuff

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>>49547918
>The new Death Watch Kill Team box has a ton of mk8 stuff

Indeed! All five torsos have the ribbed power lattice and armoured gorget, and all five sets of legs have the reinforced ankle actuators. The wrists lack the extended vambraces, but that might have something to do with most of the weapons being linked to the marines' autosenses by devices worn on the forearms.

>>49545909
Cool, thanks!

>>49548032
Get MkIV arms for extended vambraces.

>>49541933
Please respond

>>49546281
>2016
>not priming brown for godly soft colors.

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>>49548032

... and with pictures that are a little clearer...

>>49547636
I'm not painting sunglasses, though.

>>49548300

Those original vambraces are retarded as fuck for a Space Marine.

They wouldnt be able to bend their wrist upwards

>>49548288
this, priming brown saved me gorillion of time paiting yellow and red. It still gives "natural shade" just like black primer, but does not show every mistake you do which happens when priming white.

>>49548340
Neither can humans

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Fuck the standard Dreadnought legs. The pose is mediocre, they criminally small for the body, and I've just spent a good hour trying to work out how get a decent pose out of them.
Finally found a good tutorial, but I swear this shit should have been updated years ago. :(

>>49548537

They carry a huge amount of ammo and life support equipment. Contemptor dreadnoughts also had a smaller reactor.

>>49548340
It's not implied that the extension is flush against the hand and it's the price you pay for protecting the weak point on your wrist.

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>>49548552
They also get longer, stockier legs. Those damn pistons in the calf are infuriating.

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I have a question, and you guys feel like you would be pretty knowlegable on the subject.

Is greenstuff usable for non mini-sculpting projects? How durable does it become after it sets?

I recently bought a fiberglass sword is great overall but has a lot of... 'detailing' on it that honestly doesn't hold up to close inspection, and I was wondering if I might be able to use greenstuff to fill in the gaps and maybe bring up the quality of it.

Is greenstuff a viable material for doing that, or do I need to seek help elsewhere?

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Basically finished now just need to get some tufts for the base.

>>49546360
Looks really great. Maybe it's the lighting but your nobz look so much more vibrant than mine. I still need to base them too though.

>>49546360
Nice job of using every color in the orkish palette. Really manages to make them rag-tag and vibrant. Also ensures that your boyz are ded fast, 'ard, shooty, lucky, and sneaky!

>>49548711
Greenstuff might be OK for what you're thinking of. It sets sort of rubbery (sort of like dried chewing gum); not really the most durable material, but flexible. Not sure how well it will stick to fiberglass (I don't see why it wouldn't).

>>49549600

Hmmm. That might be too soft. Can I gouge cured greenstuff with a fingernail? Or is it more durable than that?

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>>49544047
>>49544691
>>49545969
>>49546449

Thank you for the advice, I'll work harder on having multiple thin layers.

The starting black layer was a pain to do cause I used shiny primer instead of matte by accident, and that shit made the mini hidrophobic. After that I was on damage control mode, but it's turning out Okayer as I go over the little details

by the way, the 'battle damage' on his helmet is a raven guard symbol, the pic wasn't helping.

Here's how he is after some extra work on making the whites smoother and the hammer gold-ish

>>49549689
Not easily, but yeah, you could. I think your alternatives would be something like plumber's putty (grainy, sets really fast, totally inflexible) or milliput (smooth, not really any more durable, inflexible).

>>49549714
Man it feels like only last year that Raid on Kastorel-Novum came out.

>>49549748

Okay, I'll look into those.

Thanks a lot for your help!

>>49549883
I have to admit I didn't even read it -- I just liked the miniature and wanted to make a scout company of Raven Guard, so imagine the joy when I found out he was the actual 10th Company Shadow Captain.

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Still deciding on color scheme. I like this scheme, but I already used it for my Dwarfs.

Thinking about trying something with silver and purple or silver with green next.

>>49549883

I didn't get into 40k until we'll after high school due to lack of money, so that was before my time. To me, the original FW stuff is the Badab War, and the Minotaurs in IA12 or whatever along with 30k seem like they just came out yesterday. How quickly 5-10 years of releases fly by. Even 6E marines and things like the Centurion are over 3 years old.

>>49550061
>Centurion are over 3 years old.
Holy shit, really? Time really flies by. Seems like it was last year when they got revealed and people lost their collective shit on how stupid they looked. 40k stuff makes me feel old.

>>49550061
My first FW was the Taros Campaign. The old version with the premade lists for playing out the campaign missions. Good times. I'd post something to avoid adding nothing more to the thread but my WIP is in stasis until next summer.

>>49550061
Three years since those abominations and presumably Grav as well.

So I just got an airbrush with an ultra fine (.21mm) tip, is 1-1 thinned citadel shaders usable, are vallejo air paints usable out of bottle, or would it need thinning? How much?

>>49550061
>>49550178
Ouch, you guys make me feel so old...
I have copies of the original soft-cover Imperial Armour 1 and 2 books.
Not the big fat hard cover ones, but the ones that only contained vehicle profiles and were about as big as a normal codex.

>>49550431
VMA and VGA should work fine through a 0.2mm nozzle, same goes for the GW shades (those don't contain any grains to begin with, they're more like inks in that regard).
Just keep in mind that the area covered by the spray is going to be pretty small.
I would be careful with non-airbrush metallics, as their flake tends to be a bit large for such a small nozzle, but airbrush paints (especially those for miniatures) should be more than fine enough to not clog your brush at all.

You may need to play with the pressure a little though, as the settings for a bigger nozzle might be a bit high for the finer one.

>>49550471
So then do I even need to thin citadel shaders, or should I still just to dilute it a bit? I am going to fiddle with it in a couple hours with some agrax to see how it handles

>>49550501
Technically, no.
The shades are basically all liquid, there's nothing that can clog your brush in those.
So you can use them straight from the pot if you wish.

Thinned does give you a little more control, in that it has a less intense colour, allowing you to layer it more slowly.

Just keep an eye on the pressure, you're likely going to get a little "spidering" initially.

I idea I had for my eldar this morning while in class I want to paint them to be "Egyptian" and for the base use a Sand-ish texture


Thoughts? (Ps. I lve never painted a model before)

>>49550605
Sorry for errors, I'm a filthy phone user.

>>49550605
They have motifs similar to the Eye of Horus (egyptian, not chaos) all over the place, so that could work quite well. Strong vibrant colours are an option as well, so I'd say go for it.

>>49548942
great job, especially on the hair

>>49546019
Hey man, that barrel has seen some shit.

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Starting a conversion project this weekend: Doing The Dreamer from Malifaux in the style of Calvin and Hobbes.

Right now the plan is:
-Dreamer get's Calvin paint scheme
-Teddy get's greenstuffed for a Hobbes 'counts as'
-Doppleganger gets painted like Susie
-Hans the Sniper is Spaceman spiff
.... and them I'm out of ideas.

I've thought about building little cardboard boxes out of cardstock for the Daydreams to act as the Transmogrifier, Duplicator, etc. but I'm worried that it won't translate well at that scale or won't fit on the base.

Any ideas? Pic related, the 'default' look of the figures, minus Teddy (who's fairly iconic).

>>49548711
I wouldnt use GS, I would use something like grey stuff which sets harder and should be wear less.

Also, where did you buy that Artorias greatsword? I must know.

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Finally got work done on some scratch built jungle huts I started on ages ago.

>>49548942
Nicely done! One of the best I've seen of Nell so far.

>>49548711

You can sculpt fiberglass, greenstuff is pretty fragile and for display purposes only.

>>49548711
Look up sugru

>>49549714

The only thing that helps in such a case is a very thin coating of matte varnish, to give the paint something to grip onto.

>>49550061

>1995 was 30 years ago

Fuck I feel old now, but I'm still going to rock those metal minis just because they still look amazing in a lot of cases.

>Centurions
>three years old

Grey Knights revamps were 5th edition right?

>>49551256
>>1995 was 30 years ago
20 if you don't mind, I'm only 35 years old, not 45...

>>49550605

They have a combination of Japanese, Egyptian and Polynesian (Mana) influences in there, though arguably in universe it could be the other way around.

Egyptian shouldn't be very hard to pull off, lots of off whites, sand colors, gold, jewelry and expensive stone types.

>>49551160

Pretty cute, but where do they get something as advanced as woven cloth?

>>49534355
these are the sort of models that probably won't look great in close ups but will look absolutely amazing on the table. i have no problem with these.

>>49551160
Love your terrain!

>>49551320
Mysterious jungle fibers. The same thing the native uses for their loincloths. I think it grows somewhere between skull mountain and the dinosaur swamp. See, it's all very realistic.
>>49551363
Thanks, dude.

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>>49551491
Oops, forgot my pic of skull mountain and the shaman's hut.

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Anyone have experience in painting this style of purity seals? It looks like a nightmare to me and have no clue how I am gonna layer it.

So i ruined a knight titan by priming it with armory primer( dont ever buy that shit it turns models into fuzzballz) and Ihave tried stripping it with simple green(didnt do shit) then I tried purple power which got some of it off but still not enough. Any one know what the best next step would be that wont melt plastic?

>>49551651

Just needs some bone highlights and script, maybe a light brown wash after to make it look more aged and you're good to go

>>49551698
Will try, however I always thought rule of thumb was Wash, then Layering?

>>49551840

There is no set rule on when to wash. If you wash before layering, the layer will look clean. If you wash after and don't layer on top, it will look a bit grimier and tint or glaze the color. GW's official tutorials recommends washes or glazes to be used as the final step if you drybrush your highlights since the final wash will hide the dusty look drybrushing causes.

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How would I go about replicating this colour scheme? What colour should I prime with so I can paint both the dark armour and the bright cloaks?

>>49551881
Thanks for that. Will try washing it with Agrax after I finish the base coating. Then dry brush, maybe layer brush it after, write the script then wash it all over again and see how it turns out.

>>49551898
The priming question is quite easy.
Prime bright (white or yellow I imagine), and then paint black over the dark parts to help those shine when you go in with the metallics and such.

Painting dark, opaque colours is relatively easy, so priming to the benefit of the light, translucent colours is always your best bet, especially if that is a major colour.