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WIP: Work in Progress Thread

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Thread replies: 321
Thread images: 97

Hey, post things that you are painting/building.

Do it.

Last thread: >>49201544
>>
Why are Nightlords described as having midnight armour in the books yet have a navy colour on the models?
>>
>>49231587
Midnight Blue, not pitch black midnight.
>>
>>49231587
Yeah, what >>49231711 said.

It's kind of like how we call people with orange hair "red-heads." It's not actually red, but that is just what we call it.
>>
Dunno where else to ask, sorry. I see the new White Dwarf came with a free model and i seem to remember reading something saying that the next few would too. Any word on what they'll be or when the next one's released?
>>
>>49231761
Well, I've not read any more rumours about free models yet, but it's a monthly publication. Sooo... beginning of October, man.
>>
>>49231996
>>49231761
Supposedly it's going to be the first three White Dwarfs will come packaged with free minis. The first was an Age of Sigmar khorne guy, but we don't know what the other two will be.

I'm willing to bet there'll be a sigmarine and an actual marine, with the real marine maybe being replaced by some other AoS thingy.
>>
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GUYS

I FINALLY FINISHED A MODEL

NOW I ONLY HAVE OVER A HUNDRED LEFT IN MY TROLLBLOODS
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>>49232104
Anon....
The scroll and plaid are awesome
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>>49232104
While I really like the script and plaid, you should wash and highlight the leather more. It just looks so plain. Maybe do some more on the axe as well.
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>>49232104
Don't be a pussy paint his pupils. I believe in you.
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>>49232164
Actually, trollkin canonically have monochromatic eyes (all parts of the eye are the same color, in this case white), so I actually won't be pupil-izing any of my trolls.

I can do pupils, though. Here is my Wizard-man proof.

>>49232142
I think I might go back and add some more shade to the leather, but since I'm doing a whole army the leather might just end up being a bit bland in general. Have to balance between making everything perfect and getting everything done in a reasonable amount of time.

And, yeah, gonna re-evaluate the steel in the future.

>>49232132
Thanks!
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>>49232669
>Actually, trollkin canonically have monochromatic eyes

I was just wondering if that were the case while I was reading >>49232164, and *almost* googled it, but I was too busy putting this post together. Thanks for following up!

>>49231559
>I'm sure we'll be able to survive a single thread without a wall of links in the OP.

Yeah, but if it helps one newcomer who happens by /tg/ in the middle of the night, wouldn't it be worth it?

>>49231610
>someone make one with the copy paste shit for fucks sake

Sure! In the name our most holy saint:

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Panther, I need Charlie Zone status. Report!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MQPWE_M_EM
>>
Can I use agrax earthshade to dirty up metal already darkened with nuln oil, or should I just throw some devlan mud on the legs? How do I do battle damage on something already metal colored?
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EEERE WE GO
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I don't have any WIP just yet, but I'm looking for a bit of advice or guidance.

So, I'm looking to start a Black Templar army and I was just curious if anyone has any experience/suggestions/images with kitbashing Space Marines with Warhammer Fantasy stuff?

To get an idea of what I'm doing: I'm fielding about 750-1000 points--infantry and rhinos. I'm kitting the majority of them in close combat weapons and bolt pistols.

I was thinking about using Bretonnian and Empire bits to add more flavor to my Space Marines, but it appears GW has removed Bretonnia from their site and the only "Empire" kits I found were Devoted of Sigmar and Freeguilds--the former lacking in kits and the latter are clad in tights. Not feeling the tights, but I'm thinking about using flagellants as neophytes(scout marines). Opinions? How about men-at-arms for neophytes? How would all of this scale next to a Space Marine--would it be comparable to a scout marine next to one?

Definitely a lot to consider before I start buying stuff and any help will do.
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Guys, thinking of getting some wargamesfactory zombies to use as plague zombies for renegade and heretics 40k army.
What do you think?
Pic related, but not mine.
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>>49233589
Aesthetically, it classes with 40k a lot. Also not sure how they scale with 40k models, you want about guardsman sized.

>>49233527
I've only done it for chaos, but there are some damn cool swords from fantasy, like a zweilander. Everything past melee weapons won't work too well.
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>>49233749
They're 40k scale, yea. But I'm at loss besides getting guardsmen and painting them green.
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My first painted model, sorry for the shit pic!
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>>49233749
Oh, definitely. I have no use for any other weapons in Warhammer. If I find just the right models, I intend to affix a bolt pistol or maybe sling a bolter to their back.

As for bits, I was thinking more along the lines of embellishments or maybe heads--if I can find the right size.
>>
>>49233589
Mantic sells (or at least sold) plastic guardsman zombies that you could use. I know that at least one other H&R anon has used them.
>>
>>49233780
truescale, not heroic though.
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>>49233827
Very nicely done! I would say all you have left to do now is kill yourself for playing Tau.
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>>49233827
That looks really good so far! I love the stencil work. With that said, I think you can really elevate it with some strategic highlighting, maybe a couple lights/lenses on the drones or thrusters.
>>
is it worth it to buy more paints if i'm only going to be using them to paint maybe, 5 or 6 marines at most just to use as display bits or should i see if i cant get someone to paint them/borrow their paints for me for cheaper
my current color pallette is all reds, blues and purples, while the marines i want are yellows and blacks
>>
>>49234517
are they the last miniatures you'll ever paint in your life?
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>>49231587
You realise that the midnight sky is a deep blue rather than black right? Look up when you're in a rural area, and you'll see.
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The new Kharn is a ridiculous 60 bucks inaustralia. So I converted the free white dwarf mini into Kharn.

I scoured my whole collection for a chain axe and had to resort to cutting up an ork choppa and a chainsword to make one.
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It was a fun learning process, but trying to do fine gradient colors while on a time budget simply doesn't work, seems like my painting style has evolved into heavy layering and high contrast highlighting, which looks nice from afar, but the general messiness and brush marks become really obvious and ugly when up close.

Not to mention these models have too much random trinkets and bullshit on them, so I can never paint them efficiently.

Maybe it's time to learn proper blending and feathering, but there is simply no way that I'll be able to paint a whole squad with blending.
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>>49235572
That's a big hand

Also you really need to thin your paint
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>>49235572
Looks like shit desu
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Planning to use the Wrack as the base to make a rogue blank to count-as a culexus assassin, yay or nay?
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>>49236073
I can get behind the idea, I think the hardest part is gonna be rigging up an Animus Spectrum for the lil guy though.

You know they're finecast right?
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>>49236393
Wracks got a plastic kit friendo
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I've been stripping models and waiting for some bits to arrive from Forgeworld.
These guys have all been through a round GreenStuff stripping and a second of Super Clean, yet I can't seem to get it all off. At least I'm at the point where I can do a new basecoat without ill-effect. I hope.

Anyway, these boys (and the ones still waiting for a stripping) are all future Night Lords. I'll be adding VIIIth Legion iconography, more wicked looking blades (probably from the Dark Elf Corsair kit), and fun trophy bits like skulls and chains and such. Suggestions on what to add are very welcome.
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>>49236473
Well slap my ass and call me Sally, I got good news for a friend then.

Cheers m8.
>>
Thousand Sons anon returns for answers

I actually started purchasing supplies, including most of my paints but I still have no idea how I wanna base this army

Is Thousand Sons blue/gold too contrasting to put them on on Snow?

Pic for attention, not mine
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>>49236727
Use pic related
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>>49237050
to get something like this
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>>49237050
>>49237070
See, that just seems so...forced? Just like the lava landscape thing.
Ahriman was sent to collect all the spells ever, so it stands to reason he would end up in some strange places....like snow? lol
>>
Infinity JSA
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>>49237096
If I've been collecting T-Sons, I'd surely keep them with egyptian theme, because that's the biggest flavour of that chapter.
However, if he/you want to do snow, just go ahead for snow.
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>>49237196
I think that is part of my issue. I LOOOVEEE the look of Thousand Sons, but fluff wise these guys have been sent to the absolute ends of the universe attempting to collect basically everything.

Snow bases sound great in my head, with the whites/blues mixing with the Blue/Gold of the units...suppose all i can do is a paint a few up and see what happens
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>>49237223
>>49237196
what about snow on the Egyptian panels!!
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>>49237246
What about Snow and ice covered rocks with Lava rivers, with Egyptian Obelisks/Ruins on the large pieces
>>
Was thinking of adding a Vindicare to my grunt-heavy Tau as support, I do love me some snipers. I rummaged through my bitzbox and I have no extra Tau models.. but I have a single kroot carnivore. It's fated.

Kroot Headhunter countsa-as Vindicare. Big fuckoff gun, warpaint, perhaps cloak and a belt full of severed heads all with a bullet hole right between the eyes. Sound cool? Any suggestions on how to make it look and feel the part?
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I have been thinking of making a Raptor cult of Slaanesh for some time now and then GW goes and gives Raptors and Warp Talons to assault from Deep Strike with a Lord in toe. I couldn't be happier
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>>49218574
Decided to quickly finish up KDM Candy and Cola before I move on the final model in the AoS commission.

>>49237111
looking alright. Though, the only thing I can really see it the Yaoxie, and it could be cleaner (Those spots where the wash pooled up)
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>>49237496
I've always loved the look of Blood Angels in purple/Slaaneshi-colours.
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>>49237563
I didn't want to cover up dat...details. Also the original cloth piece was really squared at the top, and there was an annoying connection piece sculpted across the lower back. So I cover that up with a fur pelt.
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So, most of the Skin on my Throgg conversion is done. I need to make the club complete, as well as the thing he's standing on. The teeth are still in progress as well.

Though, I do need some help with one thing: His scales. What should I do with his scales? Any ideas, tips and/or comments and critiques would be helpful.
>>
>>49233206

You aren't going to put washes on the inside of the cockpit?
>>
>>49235572

New kharn looks amazing, too bad they didn't remake the berzerkers while they were at it.

About your mini, be careful because your paints are looking pretty thick in various places. You should really basecoat gold with something like vallejo heavy brown to avoid having to pile it on and still getting splotchy patches like on the chain axe grille.
>>
>>49236709

Dude, they're metal. Use acetone and each model will be 100% clean in seconds. Do remove the bases first or they'll melt and wear gloves because it's basically alcohol on steroids and will dry out your skin like you wouldn't believe. I'm talking lizard scales flaking off.
>>
>>49236727

Armies don't really choose where they fight and snow can work fine with blue and bone. It'll just be quite bright.

Don't worry about basing until you've painted a squad. You'll likely change your mind. Personally I'd go for either something dark like an urban setting or something green like a jungle.
>>
>>49235572
Fine conversion- in many ways I admire the simplicity over a lot of ugly new GW models that have to cram every nook and cranny with detailing.

That said, you really need to thin your paints- and I'm not memeing here. There's not a lot of textural consistency in the skin, and there's an ugly sheen to the chainaxe from the thick paint. Get some green stuff and dunk the guy.
>>
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Painting up a Daemonhunter my dad made a few years back
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>>49239620
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Working my way through the whole gene stealer cult. I fucking love using Tamiya clear red for blood effects.
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>>49239653
The blue highlights are looking really thick on the genestealers. Maybe put small white dots on their boils to make them look extra gross.
>>
>>49239680

Yeah, the contrast is too high, it needs a few blue glazes over the edges to smooth it out.
>>
>>49237096
Rule of cool bro. Worry more about what looks cool and less about what tickles your tism.
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>>49239653
Are those white highlights on the staff topper or did you actually manage to get it that CHROME?
>>
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>Using a white basecoat
>Even the tiniest of areas you don't pain or paint too thin shine out in comparison to the rest of the model
>Showing the whole world what a shitty painter you are

Why go on?
>>
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>>49240573
I went silver paint, nuln, silver, then Sharpie on the edges (the pen tip is way too thick for detail work though or I'd use it all the time)
>>
>>49239620
Massive curly hair/10, i really hope it doesn't come from where i think it comes, anon.
>>
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Post palettes.
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>>49240637
prime black
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>>49239406
>paint too thick
>DUNK HIM IN GREEN STUFF

Yes, I know what you meant, but I'm a dick on an image board.
>>
>>49240738
Patriarch looks good so far man.
>>
>>49240755
>dry palette

lmao
>>
>>49240755
Thin your paints
>>
>Oh boy it's time to paint my old metal storm troopers
>Open carrying case to grab them
>Regular guardsman sitting in one of their spots
>can't find the 5th Storm trooper
I guess it's time to tear apart my apartment...
>>
>>49241471
Oh found him in a box of necromunda dudes, crisis averted
>>
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I'm in the process of painting my very first set of minis. It's the Dark Vengeance box I got on the cheap and I'm using 50 cent Apple Barrel acrylics from Walmart.

I post progress once in a while, for anybody who remembers, so that you guys can call me bad and I can learn some tips.

Here's some progress.
>>
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First model I ever painted. Sorry for the light, it is better irl.
The skeleton , base and swords still need to be painted obviously. The spirits still need a bit of light on the crests.

How am I doing?
>>
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>>49241761
Back view. I tried to aim for a dry blood color.
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>>49241782
>dry blood color.
But dried blood is much more brown. That blood looks very fresh.
>>
>>49241621
The guy with the sword needs a few touch ups, mainly another layer of white on the respective parts and a wash applied to both the cloak and the white. Your terminator looks absolutely awesome on the other hand.
>>
Anyone have digital Adeptus Mechanicus painting guide book? Didn't find it in the OP links at all. Thanks in advance
>>
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I'm making my Imperial Guard-playing friend cry by getting MOAR LOBBAZ
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>>49241950
They don't get shredded by wyverns?
>>
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>>49241822
May be my bad, but looking on google for dry blood returns this. I tried to go for this color, obviously less transparent. A dark blood.
>>
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>>49241822
>>49241979
And also IRL it looks drier
>>
>>49241979
>>49242029
Add a touch more green for a dried blood color.

t. artfag.
>>
>>49241979
bit of a weird one, but a guy over here http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/showthread.php?54409
actually did an assessment of painting blood (or even with blood)

Typically blood gets more and more brown over time, so I guess the truth is it depends how recently that blood had the opportunity to dry!

Frankly I think the colour you have now is much nicer than going browner.
>>
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>>49241950
My latest plan for an orky distraction carnifex is this, three killsaw-meganobz with Mad-Dok Grotznik (I feel the new gw doktor is cyber enough to play the part.)

Put them in a truck, throw them at enemy, 24-32 powerklaws on the charge...

>>49241971
He refuses to play wyverns since he thinks they're too ugly. And frankly, they only wound on 6's even if they have shred. But they would get a lot of dice, so I dunno.
>>
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>>49242071
Also building a new Warboss Kaptinn for my freebootas. Using Kaptinn Badrukk for the body and some alternative gear.
Gonna make the base into wood flooring so that the Kaptinn fits in while standing atop his ship...
>>
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>>49242141
... Da Fing'r O' Gork
>>
>>49232104

>one down a hundred to go

Sounds like your typical wargamer to me.
>>
>>49242071
Guy I play with shreds an entire mob of boys with three of them. With a good enough blast and close enough boys with twin linked, he gets about 50+ hits with shred that ignores armor.
>>
>>49242198
Boyz, yes of course.
They're practically designed to kill boyz.

But here's the thing:
Artillery crews, like the grots up there, use the toughness of their guns when being shot at.

Toughness 7 Grots.
>>
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>>49233589

As others have stated, Mantic is the way to go for great zombies (some of the best out there for the price you pay!). If they fit the 40k standard is up to you, conversion is always a trick, personally Id keep them as they where.
>>
>>49240755
I'd pay 20 dolas if it was on canvas.

also this:
>>49240927
>>
>>49242029
>>49241782
You should aim for a glossier look, like they're floating globs of liquid blood.
>>
>>49242214
With shred and the lack of a save, you're gonna still be missing a lot of crew grots, or the entire unit.
>>
>>49242141
love the base you fixed for him

>>49242150
and ship is just mindblowing cant wait to see finished model
>>
>>49233827

Great base work, love the cammo, and for your first model you should be really proud.

But next time, try to highlight and shade each layer of color. Our job as hobbyists is to create the illusion of depth on our models. This is achieved by adding layers upon layers, creating deep shades, and bright highlights, to make a model look as realistic as can be, or sometimes to create effects such as a "cartoony look".
>>
>>49242262
Sure. But a lobba and the gun crew cost 18 points. The unit of 5 costs 90 points.

If my opponent dedicates their wyvern to shooting out my cheap-ass grots, my boyz will have the time to get up close and personal to them. All in all it's a fair deal.
>>
>>49236717

Hell, where have you guys been the last 5 years? You know metal blisters are gone as well right?
>>
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>>49237111

Looking good there! Hell I wish I had the strength to paint my YuJing up!
>>
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>>49242141
My old Kaptinn Warboss for reference. Not a bad model, but it was one of my first, so I felt he needed a rework.
>>
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>>49239653
>>49240738

This got me so fucking pumped up right now! I just bought the set, and cant wait to play... buuut then its that small thing of painting a fuckton of Cult troopers! Don't get me wrong, I bought the set for those guys, but it takes so much time!
You fucking rock those guys with your paintjob! Great job anon, great fucking job!

So far I have finished a couple of Deathwatch models, and am just about finished with the black on the next pair of Marines.
>>
>>49240755

I don't get it... you want a picture of my table? Because after so many years, I got paint just about everywhere on that fucking hobby table I don't even care anymore.
>>
>>49234855
point taken
>>
>>49242042
Why green?
>>49242060
That is fucking weird man, but yeah I didn't want my blood going brown, the globs of dryish blood ( >>49242251) were what I was going for
>>
>>49239129
I'll try that with the metal ones, but the resin ones will just have to make do.
>>
I'm looking for some kind of skewer with clips on the end, so I can hold and rotate model pieces while I airbrush. I'm thinking of buying alligator clips from Walmart and just Elmer's gluing them to bamboo skewers. Would that work? Anyone have experience with stuff like this?
>>
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>>49243489
Something like this I imagine. I own a bench-top mounted one, but don't have much experience with it. Should do what you want though.
>>
>>49242234
Mantic has nice space zombies. It's a plastic kit with extra arms and heads and stuff like you'd expect from GW. For some reason they aren't for sale right now (and neither are their new Space Zombie Grunts With Guns for some reason.)
>>
>>49243722
Forgot pics. Here are the new ones. They might not actually be available yet, but they were kickstarted.
>>
>>49243742
Old ones. Also not for sale for some reason.
>>
>>49242150

Hah, I miss that other toy ship bro who wanted to put legs on it, don't think we ever got an update on his progress,
>>
>>49243655
I have one of those for painting and airbrushing. It works great and can hold all sorts of odd shapes. Super comfortable to hold for long periods, has good heft to it, but not too heavy. The screw post is a bit long, but i have found it useful as a hand rest for painting, so its not all bad.
>>
>>49231761
>>49231996
>>49232070
The back page of the current issue only says the next issue comes with a free comic.
>>
>>49243655
Well, I'll be using them for Gundam models. So it has to be able to grip onto very small pieces. And being able to stick skewers into a Styrofoam board helps for drying.

/Toy/ confirmed that my original idea is what most people do.

I'll look into what you recommended however! That looks really nifty.
>>
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>>49243864
image related is probably more suited to smaller parts then, but that is quite similar to what you already improvised yourself.
>>
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Mr. Beeps gets his wheels. What's the best way to paint tires? Dry brush grey?

I'm thinking I'll use some of that typhus corrosion paint for dirt.

I also gotta decide what to base these troopers on... maybe something like salt flats...
>>
>>49241546
>>49241471

Oh the horror of missing models
>go on holiday
>come back
>my mom's there
>used her emergency key to get in
>SURPRISE I CLEANED YOUR HOUSE

I'm still missing models and bit collections for projects years later
>>
>>49243864
Alligator clips and skewers are for sure the cheap way of going for that sort of thing.

I am not sure what Gundam models you would be painting, but I use this for 15-28mm models, which have (usually) much smaller parts to paint than gundam models.

If you are just looking for something to hold parts while you put down a layer or two of basecoating, then the clips will be your best bet. Anything else will be slower/not quite what you want.
>>
>>49241621

For shitty paints that's actually pretty amazing. The quality of the paints appears to be showing mostly on the stuff like the wing highlights and the edges of the whites.
>>
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>>49242150
Working on a turret for the ship. It'll hold a Deff Arsenal, so I'm going to fill this space up with cannons of varying sizes.

My current plan is that the Kaptinn will have his spot of honor up on top of this, with a cutout so his base goes flush with the floor.

>>49243912
Nice work, but next time, crop and scale down your pictures.
>>
>>49243912

You should give those playas some nice gold rims, and I'd just get some mud effects for the tires. Drybrushing grey is going to make it look like they just rammed through a concrete wall but then you'd have to do the rest of the model and a terrain piece too.
>>
>>49243981

It doesn't look very "armor-y" yet, the top dome. Overlapping plates is very orky but this is just a big bullet catcher and quite frankly, it contrasts too much with the clean body its being attached to.

Those protruding pieces of armor off the sides could use some grot guns hanging underneath too.
>>
>>49243913
I'm about 85% sure my mum's thrown out or given away my White Dwarfs.
1990-2007ish, when it was still good.
About 4' tall stack.
Sadness.

In fairness I did move out six years ago.
>>
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>>49243981

You have come a long way friend.
>>
>>49243981
Yeah, sorry. Thanks.

>>49244000
Hell yeah. So what would be good for bringing out the deets on the tire tracks?just let mud/dirt effects and washing do the work?
>>
>>49241621
If this is really your first set of miniatures, and you are really painting with Walmart paints, then yooz a git.
Envy burns like a thousand suns.
>>
>>49244066
Oh I'm not nearly done with the body, don't worry about that. I'm gonna build out structure under all of the baneblade armored top and expand to the back.

The whole thing is going to be a bullet catcher, but I'll just blame it on
A) Kustom Force Fields (I've got some generators coming in the post I'm going to spread out)

B) The fact that all the important parts inside are armored, and the rest is more or less a shanty town built on top of the tank. If shells go right through it, noone cares, because there's no critical system behind it.

>>49244108
Not mine, but that's hilarious
>>
>>49241621
>>49244148
More constructively, how are you learning to paint?

That's far from the result most folks get by throwing paint at plastic a few times and then trial and error-ing from there.
>>
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Been trying to get this technique down, first guy, second guy and third. Is it looking better? I want to paint all my guys up like this with their eyes/skulls/runes glowing.
>>
>>49241621
>first set of minis
>no mold lines, drilled barrels, decently painted

You don't half ass stuff do you?
>>
>>49244246
The chest glowing runes are a bit odd, and hard to tell where the light is coming from. If the rune is on the highest part of the chest, then the light from it wouldn't really glow all over the chest the way you have it here. Other than that, it looks pretty good. I have never tried OSL, but this is a good attempt.
>>
>>49244246
>>49244293
Perhaps even just making them a bit more understated could work. The lighting seems to take up a large part of the model, and sort of overwhelms the rest of the paintjob
>>
>>49244246
The third one is the best so far, you can really see the improvement. I agree with the other bloke though, tone it down just a little and it would look great.
>>
>>49244352
>>49244321
>>49244293
Alright cool, I'll try it on a fourth dude and tone it down a bit.
>>
>>49244246
Pringle lid pallet?
Nah nigga
>>
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I've been trying to paint a dryad lady, it's gone horribly wrong atleast twice now so while she's soaking in paint stripper I'm just painting up one of the many models from my giant backlog
>>
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First knight done, 9 more to go.
>>
>>49244246

The centers need to be almost pure white but with a hint of yellow. On the last mini, you're doing much better already especially with the OSL. Look at pictures of people forging metal to get an idea of how bright you need to go. The OSL is good but the glowing points are still not bright enough.
>>
>>49238969
pls respond
>>
>>49238969
>>49244946
With super dark skin like that, the scale will need to be somewhat lighter, but not too light, or else they will clash horribly with the dark skin. You have a brown on there already, so maybe bringing it out to a red or deep crimson. Or you could go with a brown/green color, for a more forest/swampy look.

The model is pretty dark overall, so you need to lighten it up a bit if you want to be able to pick out any detail while it is on the table. Though, the base and club painting, as well as the teeth, could do a lot to aid in that. I think i would stay away from any blue on that model, as it would not go well with the warmer skin tones you already have.
>>
>>49245023
>>49244946
The skin webbing in the ears could also be painted a lighter version of the skin tone, as ears and thin membranes like that will tend to be lighter flesh, and allow more light through them.

Also perhaps adding a white highlight to a couple small spots on the skin or bone colored bits might add a bit to it as well.
>>
>>49238969

He's just not muscular enough and the hammer is just tiny. The conversion in itself is good and I like the look of it though it could be a little cleaner and smoother on some of the highlights.
>>
>>49244270
>>49244171
>>49244148
I appreciate the praise. I used to do model cars with my dad when I was younger before he passed away, I miss you pops
>>
How do i keep two halves of a mold smushed together so it doesnt leak?

I was thinking i had to build some kind of box to hold it firm while the resin set.
>>
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ere we go
>>
>>49239101
Have you noticed that while they didn't update the Khorne Berzerker sprues, the Berzerkers next to the new Kharn model on the WD pics are actually conversions from regular chaos marines which is like 7 years younger than the Berzerker box?
>>
>>49245698
I have over 120 ork boys and I never even planned on running a horde.
So recasting orks seems like a curious choice to me, but it looks like the quality of your casts is pretty good, so nice work.
>>
>>49245023
>>49245073
>>49245129
thank you for the advice, fellas
>>
What kind of effect is produced by applying a wash, letting it dry, and then applying a darker wash?
>>
>>49233827
how did you do the camo, i want to do exactly that for my stealthsuit kill team, what colours did you use at least?
>>
>>49246607
a muddy, dark effect
>>
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Finished this guy.
>>
>>49246800
And couldn't resist.
>>
>>49246800
memes about churches aside I think the base could use some attention, you've got so much grey already everything just sort of blends together
>>
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Also turning my White Dwarf Slaughterpriest into a Wulfen Champion.
Probably counts as a lone wolf with power fist.
Got a storm shield and wulfen head coming. Will try an Ork right arm to see if it matches in size with the left arm.
Lone Wolves share feel no pain and fearless with Wulfen plus he will get Eternal Warrior which works for his size.
Just gonna fluff it as his mutation is taken him further.
>>
>>49245879
It made sense to me. I wanted to make a mold to practice, and I tried to think of something that

>I needed many multiples of
>Small and easy
>I wouldnt want to pay for
>There would be so many ont he table that people wouldnt look closely at them

Boyz are so numerous and worthless on the tabletop that they fit the bill.
>>
>>49248320
conscripts
>>
>>49247738
Looks good, can't wait to see it finished
>>
>>49248351
The armies I play are
>30k legion
>Orks
>CSM

Cultists are too small and complex so I ruled them out

Since my boy mold is going so well I might do one for a MK of FW armour.

Theyre just personal molds to save me money, I never plan to actually sell the casts. I got $15 of resin and used half of it so far to make 90 boyz bodies.
>>
People have mentioned blue tack for assembling models for play before painting. How do I go about actually doing it?

I don't have paint yet, but there's going to be people playing on Sunday. I want to have models together to play. They're Dark Eldar, and I'm not sure what to glue and what to tack.
>>
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>>49248830
>I'm not sure what to glue and what to tack.

It's safe to glue things like legs, bodies and (usually) heads. You'll want to tack things that need to come off so you can paint the stuff around or behind them. The chief offenders in this regard are basic/special/heavy weapons that the bearer holds across the front of his body.
>>
>>49248954

>across the chest
Like Anime McEdgesmirk the Archon from the Start Collecting box? Christ.

Anyway, how does the tack work? Is it literally just the shit you use to stick posters the the wall?

How does one tack, though.
>>
>>49239065
Why would he? it looks terrible whenever ive done it.
>>
>>49247738
Glad to see the slaughterpriest get more conversion use, this guy is so versatile as the base for any beefy huge character
>>
Hey /wip/ if I wanted to make some Feudal world guardsmen, what would you recommend kit bashing with? Ive thought about perry miniatures but Im not sure if theyd work properly.
>>
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>>49249232
>Anyway, how does the tack work? Is it literally just the shit you use to stick posters the the wall?

Yep. Almost everything in these pictures aside from the legs and torsos was blue-tacked into place to check the fit.
>>
>>49249805

Alright, cool. I'll swing by Walmart tonight and grab some. How does it hold in transit? They're uhh, not exactly going to be in perfect foam.
>>
>>49249923
>[Blue-Tack]
>How does it hold in transit?

Not very well, especially on hot and/or humid days. But the stuff *is* cheap, re-useable, and is not going to ruin what you stick to it.
>>
>>49249952

>hot and/or humid

That's unfortunate being in PA, then. I guess I'll see how it goes then. The store is AC, so in an just stick the bits on there.
>>
>>49249805
anon why you do this, not good
>>
>>49250042
>anon why you do this, not good

Would you believe I found someone who actually chose to arm his Centurions with something other than grav-cannons, and let me have his sprues with the leftover bitz for my conversions?

Crazy, huh?
>>
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>>49249952
I actually have some off brand cheaper tack from near the blue tack holding my power strip in place (pic related) i wouldnt plug more than a few things in it, but for my phone charger, an alarm clock and a few other things, it holds it in very well. it used maybe, 4 strips in the pre-cut package
I also use it to hold bases to pill bottles while i paint and it holds them with no issue at all, i actually have to use a little prybar to keep from breaking the model. given that they're hormagaunts and their hooves break easily....
>>
>>49250109
I was more referring to the random cutting and gluing technique, also the plasma tip, it just kinda all looks like a mess man
>>
>>49250160
that doesn't appear to be real wood anon, why not just put a couple of screws in if it's got those holes for that type of shit on the bottom of the power strip
>>
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Am I using the wrong acetone for stripping?

I soaked my models for six hours, yet trying to peel or scrape or brush the paint away is almost completely ineffective. It's no different than trying to scrape dry paint off.

Amusingly, I did forget to remove the bases, so I got to see them dissolve into goo. Fortunately I was planning on rebasing them anyway.

I'm going to let 'em soak for another 12 hours or so. Does anyone have (paint) stripping advice in the meantime?
>>
>>49250352
The plasma pistol is there to ensure compliance of the operator. If they fail their duty to the Emperor, they'll pay for it with their lives.
>>
>>49250408
i dont have a drill and whatever pressed wood thats made of is really hard to screw through
basically laziness
>>
>>49247738

If Kharn doesn't get EW, argument why your "house rule model" should have? Remember, your arguing with a model which in fluff is like 10k years of age and has fought battles ever since. Oh, and he is the chosen fighter of a fucking GOD!

Don't get me wrong, I like the idea of making up your own characters and such, but be careful of slapping on rules that are really powerful.

Model looks great btw!
>>
>>49250702

I think everything he's using is from his Codex.
>>
>>49244860

>mold lines fucking everywhere

Anon...
>>
>>49246800

Looks nice and clean but you've left some gaps in the weapons, particularly on the cannon and the melta
>>
>>49250413
it looks bad anon, and so does using the arm that looks like you had to carve something out of it, also the handle movement is not clean at all
>>
>>49246816
"Don't talk to me or my step son ever again."
>>
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Wip Star Phantoms Libby, still trying to source out a good left arm, not sure if I want to do him up in blue as per classic librarians or just chapter colours
>>
What are those lines mats I see people with?
>>
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>>49253202
I assume you mean one of these?

Its a cutting mat. Self healing and won't fuck up your knives when you cut into it.
>>
>>49253259

I did mean that. Where would I go to get one? Any arts and crafts? Are they expensive?
>>
>>49253281
Craft store will have them, amazon has them, they are in all sorts of sizes and colors, and patterns. $10-$20 depending on size.
>>
>>49253312

Cool, thanks. I am currently using my table that honestly doesn't get used for anything else anyway. A mat might be better.
>>
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First time ever attempting OSL on these Death Marshals. How did I do? Apologies for shitty yellow light.
>>
>>49253609
you seem to have the opposite problem from the previous OSL guy. It seems pretty understated, and hard to see against the dark background. Perhaps brightening up the whites, maybe even making them a bit larger, or even the other blues. Perhaps it is the lighting, however, hard to tell. Looks good though.
>>
>>49253609
gonna want to turn up the blue on the flames, the source needs to be a couple stages brighter than the glow
>>
>>49253636
On a second look, it seems like the light emitting parts aren't bright enough at all. The fire is too dark.

>>49253646
what he said.
>>
>>49253650
>>49253646
>>49253636
Cool thanks guys, I'll take the fire blues to the next level of brightness and see how that looks. Appreciate the feedback!
>>
>>49250702

>>49250826 is right. Lone wolves in the codex are dudes who lost the rest of their unit. They go on a suicidal rampage which means they get EW for some reason.

I was just saying it makes more sense on this model than a normal dude in power armor.
>>
>>49245286

Yeah, you need to put it into a box that holds them tightly together or just tie both halves together before pouring. Post pictures of your mold though, maybe something else is wrong.
>>
>>49250410

What the fuck? Acetone is a corrosive, it should eat through most kinds of paint in seconds. 6 hours should be enough to dissolve most non-metallic material.
>>
>>49253166

I'd go with the classic open hand but turned palm up. The new SM tactical kits should have hands like that, else there should be one in the devastator one.
>>
Trying my luck with an oil wash for the first time later today, do I need to seal the oil with varnish after it has dried (I satin gloss the model before applying the wash)? Do I do the usual Basecoat -> Wash -> Highlights routine or do I go Basecoat -> Layering Highlights -> Wash -> Cleanup with white spirit? I wanted to try out the latter but would like to get opinions first.
>>
>>49250410
What kind of paint did you use?
>>
>>49246800
where that head comes from?
>>
>>49250410
if it already dissolved the plastic bases you can be sure that you did everything right.
The models you want to strip are likely painted with enamels. Those are a bitch to strip.

For GW acrylics you should be able to dip a toothbrush and just scrub the paint off the minis with no soaking required whatsoever.
Of course that speeds the process up, but you get my point.
>>
>>49255140
That's what I had been led to believe a well

>>49255321
I got them second hand, so I don't know for certain.

>>49255448
Well, shit. I guess that explains it. Looks like I'm in for a tedious weekend.

Thanks for the help, everybody.
>>
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Painted up the new Kharn. I really like the model, only gripe I have is how much larger he is than a normal space marine. He's easily the size of a terminator.
>>
Pic of my mob nob. Been trying to use some of my random bitz and gubbins in creative ways on the boyz
>>
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>>49256447
And heres the picture...
>>
>>49256365
his face looks messy but otherwise good job
>>
>>49256365

Well, he is THE chosen of Khorne. He's the same as Lucius the Eternal, Ahriman and Typhus only his god is specialized in melee and cutting stuff up. Just like the slaughterpriest, he just gets a size buff. World eaters are large to begin with.
>>
>>49255448
>>49256323
I tried a different set of minis using the dipping-the-toothbrush-in-acetone method and it worked just fine. You were right, it must be the paint on those models.

I just hope the rest of the stuff I got from other people aren't painted the same way.
>>
>>49256988

Yeah, if they're metal you can clean them with something normally used for houses only available at hardware stores like Goof off or even stronger but wear thick gloves, a mask and do it outside if you're going to do that.
>>
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>>49256458
Looks Dead 'Ard
>>
>>49256365
Are you saying he's a big guy?
>>
>>49257543
For you
>>
>>49257334
Great. Even more stuff to buy.
>>
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Finished off a few models for my Inquisimunda gang. Running a counts-as!Genestealer Cult with a construction crew/industrial theme.

Only two more gangers to go, and then paint up some little monsters to count as 'stealers
>>
>>49257992

How many models are we talking here? Got any pictures so we can identify what's on there? If it's 2 or 3 common models, it's just not worth it.

Alternatively you can just use fire to burn off the paint, but again we have no idea what's on there or what models this is is about.
>>
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>>49257992
>Great. Even more stuff to buy.

There are three things to consider when choosing a paint stripper:

1). Is it cost effective?
2). Is it safe?
3). Does it work?

Goof Off is only for use on metal. It will ruin plastic and resin. It's expensive (#1) - about four times the cost of acetone, which you can buy in the cosmetics section for removing nail polish. It's terribly caustic (#2). Try not to get the stuff on you, and if you do, don't let it stay there long.

But damn... For #3, it sure does work!
>>
>>49244577
Damn mang, he looks great so far.
>>
>>49258150
Yeah goof off can only be used for metal models
if any gets on plastic that plastic will melt.
>>
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Aw man, that re edition of the old Metal Chapplain is pretty fucking good imo. I'll get it.
>>
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>How do i paint White better
>Is Less more?
>Are they at least Tabletop standard, i will ofc be basing the lesser Vargheist
>>
>>49258347

You don't actually paint white, you paint off-white with white highlights.
>>
>>49258347
Are you asking questions or having a conversation with yourself?
>>
>>49258380
3 open questions
>>
>>49258401
Ahh, the quoting confused me.
The guy above is right, you highlight to get white.
Less is more in all things.
3colors is typical tt standard. Basing is a good idea.
>>
>>49258130
>>49258150
The ones giving me trouble are 5 chaos raptors, 28 plague marines (mixed 2e/3e; I'll make sure to remove the plastic bits before stripping), and Typhus.

But I've been buying stripping supplies in relatively large quantities because I've also got about a hundred Sisters, sixty metal Cadians, fifty Vostroyans, and I don't know how many Rogue Trader era marines, both plastic and slightly-leaded pewter, left to clean up.

>>49258323
Duly noted. I've used that many years ago to strip some shelves. I didn't bother to change gloves when the steel wool ripped the fingers open and I ended up with peeling skin for nearly a month.
>>
>>49258372
Use white paint on top of white primer. Emphasis on white primer.
>>
>>49258372
>>49258461
Damn i wish i knew that before
Cool
Will remember - at least they're both eligible for future use

Thanks
>>
>>49258462

The white metal stuff like the raptors and later stuff has pretty good heat resistance, don't try that with the lead mix ones, but just caress one with fire to see if the paint comes off.
>>
>>49258331

I wonder if that Captain is going to come with roolz for a power-fist-mounted grenade launcher.
>>
Is there any real difference in using palette paper or a tile over something like a paper plate?
>>
>>49258703
>palette paper

No, its just a scam

>a tile

can be used forever

>paper plate

cheap mans tile
>>
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>>49258130
Here are two of the raptors. The paint is white and flaky, but only comes off if scraped with something hard like a fingernail or back side of an exacto blade, examples of which can be seen here and there.
Toothbrushes and an attempt with a wire brush both failed to do a damn thing.

I tried the fire idea on a separate mini, but it doesn't seem to be working. The paint goes black, but after wiping it away I'm left with slightly greyer paint that still won't come off unless I use a nail or knife. And this isn't a viable option because it's too hard to get at recesses and detailed bits.

I guess Goo Gone/Good Off is my only real option with these guys.

Or am I not burning for long enough?
>>
>>49258822

Or the fire isn't hot enough, what are you using? It should be at least blue. You can try frying them for longer, it should at least crackle the paint.
>>
>>49240740
Comes from being a yeti with way too much hair, the shit gets everywhere.
>>
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>>49231561
Bikes are done, finally. Next up: Rhinos.

>>49258331
Meh, the chap can't hold a torch to the current (soon to be oop?) one.

>>49256365
Looks pretty dope, although the base seems a little empty and his skulls could use a thin wash.

>>49256458
I really like it, it's really someting fresh.
>>
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>>49258914
Also: Lord on bike. He's on fire!
>>
>>49233827
for a first model that is fantaaaastic. i like the unconventional color scheme as well.

>>49235692
your painting is a mid muddy but the overall effect is very good

>>49242150
stoked on this
>>
>>49258859
Ah. That must be it. I was just using a lighter.

Many thanks for the help, btw. I really appreciate the advice.
>>
>>49258822
>>49258859
I'd be very careful with the flames.
Pewter has a low melting point. Old minis with more lead in them even lower i think. A gas flame easily can melt your mini.
>>
>>49258968
Good to know. My thanks for the warning.
>>
Uhm wat..... dont try and burn off paint, a lighter will easily melt pewter.
>>
>>49258914
>>49258926
Bloody glorious anon!
>>
>>49258926
>>49258914
Man, painting a plain ol' Space Marine army makes me feel pretty creatively restricted when I see conversions like this. Great job.
>>
>>49258968

That's what I said in the first post, don't try it on the lead minis. The white metal ones have a much higher melting point, like well over 400 degrees at which point the paint should be coming off already.
>>
>>49258822
White Metal is very temperature sensitive.
The melting point (depending on composition) is very low, generally between 230 °C and 300 °C (450 °F and 575 °F).
Since most modern variants of it don't contain lead, it'll be on the higher end of that range, but still it melts very easily.
>>
>>49241621
hey man, i see you use washes, where did you got those? i need to make washes myself cus they sell them 8 dollars the bottle here im a mexycunt, fight me donald, also, here is my first convertion, what do you guys think? il post an upday in a sec
>>
>>49259162
What part of Mexico are you in that they sell you paint at such high prices?

I'm in Mexico City and buy Vallejo paints for the equivalent of 3 bucks a bottle.
>>
>>49248402
hey man could you give us how did you made them?
>>
>>49259162
cant you order online?
>>
>>49256365
The plastic Chosen form DV seem bigger than your average marine too, so I'm not surprised. Shame the Gorechild isn't any bigger...
>>
>>49259162
you need to defile/file off/cover up those loyalist markings.

i'm assuming its a chaos duderman on that bike, and not a dark angle.
>>
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>>49258926
Looks great
>>
>>49259162
also moar pics, and youre missing a shoulder pad

>>49259387
angel*
>>
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>>49259403
>>49259387
here it is the current state of my marysue lord

>>49259246
o man i envy you,i live in xalapa veracruz, and i only play with 2 more people, wich they dont care about the cost of the paints
>>
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>>49259472
here its a better pic
>>
Anyone in the UK know if Games Workshop deliver on Saturdays?
>>
>>49259841
Games Workshop use Royal Mail as a carrier, so yes. I work for Royal Mail though, so if it isn't tracked and the postie doesn't feel like carrying it around, expect it to stay in the delivery office till Monday.
>>
>>49259872
I see, thanks mate.
>>
Does anyone know a good tutorial for painting liquids inside of viles/bottles? Working on some moon shinobi for Malifaux and this one ninja is balancing bottles on his feet/hand.
>>
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>>49260172
Something like image related perhaps Anon?
See the link below.

http://eyeoferror.blogspot.nl/2013/01/painting-realistic-fluid-filled-vials_7.html
>>
>>49241621
hey man you didnt replyed how to make cheap washes
>>
hate to be that guy, but does anyone have the picture of cartoony anons model?
>>
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>>49260406
This?
>>
>>49260464
it looks sweet as candy. I want to lick at it.
>>
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>>49260298
Cheers anon, i'll give it a read.
Here is the dude I am working on.
>>
How do you clean mold lines on metal like on my Johnny? I don't have a tool that can do that really
>>
>>49260784
Modelling knives + files do it fine.
>>
>>49260784

Take the nail file of your mom/sis

or maybe order a set of diamond files from china for $5 at aliexpress
>>
>>49260464

Do you have his skaven? Those are the first models he posted here I think.
>>
I'm trying to find a good GW paint to use for the stone Crux Terminates on my Terminators and Sternguard. Any suggestions?
>>
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>>49260784
>How do you clean mold lines on metal like on my Johnny? I don't have a tool that can do that really

Like >>49260815 and >>49260821 said, needle files and emery boards work well. Additionally, depending on the quality of the cast, Johnny is likely to have a nasty mold line that runs down the left shoulder pauldron in between the molecular bonding studs. I removed mine by folding a sheet of sandpaper in half and snaking the folded edge of it in between the studs to remove the mold line.
>>
>>49260971
Mechanicus Standard Grey base > Agrax Earthshade wash > Dawnstone layer > Administratum grey layer > Longbeard grey highlight
>>
>>49261083
Thanks!
>>
>>49261083

Alternatively if you lack paints you can get decent results with light grey > black wash > light grey layer > black wash > light grey highlights
>>
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Doing a mass paint job on my imperial fists in preparation for a tournament tomorrow.
>>
>>49246800

Yea, as >>49246836 mentioned, the bases looks way to blend. You already have a grey model, no need to spur it further and do a grey base as well. Fix some static grass tufts, flock it up a bit or do snow, put just about any GW building parts on it (and by definition of /tg/ build a church), just do something to make it an asset to the model, not just a big piece of plastic you "had" to fill.
>>
>>49258113

Are you referring to Inquisitor 28mm, or simply house rules for a inquisitorial team to necromunda?
Anyways, looks ok, but I cant really see the Genestealer cult theme here. Sure you snatched a tiny beast from Warmahordes, but thats hardly enough to make it "look at my Genestealer Cult" warband. Hell, the big guy in the middle is more than enough to make it part of a "orks for hire" warband. And I don't really get (or like) the floating rocks.
>>
>>49261282

Ugh... now I feel lazy... fuck you anon... just... *sigh*... fuck you...
>>
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>>49261480
It's not like I'm a good painter, and I still have a long way to go. I'll post progress when I have a single mini worth talking about and not 40 in various stages of completion.
>>
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>>49253166
For inspiration, here's some proxy Libbies I modeled up a while ago for my Flesh Tearers.

It's a good example of what >>49255158 is talking about in terms of using the hand bitz from a Tactical squad.
>>
>>49232775
What I did, (and this might be wrong,) is painted stormhost over lead belcher to look like battle damage then went over that in a kinda thined down nuln oil. Rinse and repeat but only one or two more times so things don't look too grimy and the last time you paint the stormhost over, don't put the nuln oil over just so they look like fresh battle damage
>>
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My very first vehicle model and the last one in my starter box. Can anyone suggest some washes or highlighting to make it look less shit?
>>
>>49262166
Agrax Earthshade or Nuln Oil for washes, maybe a Wazdakka Red or Evil Sunz Scarlet for select Highlighting along the edges.
>>
>>49262166

there really isnt anything magical about suggestions
it needs both.

wash = darker version of base colour to go in nooks and crannies (black will do for almost anything)
highlighting = lighter version of base colour

stick both on, voila, instantly better than basecoat.
>>
Anyone know a texture colour like Blackfire earth from Citadel but less expensive and maybe bigger than one base if your lucky
>>
>>49262806
Red Oxid Paste
High viscosity acrylic paste with a gritty texture, pigmented with iron oxide red. Dries to a stone hard surface with excellent retention of textures and peaks.

Presentation:
26.589 Pot 200 ml.
28.589 Pot 500 ml.

The 200ml pot is approximately 10 euros here in the Netherlands, and should last you for quite a few bases.
>>
>>49261434
He said "counts as" not "styled as". They already said the theme was construction crew.
>>
Blood Angels Sternguard Sargent.

Eschewing the decadent hubris of other veterans, he has sworn that he will die before he lets any more young Marines waste their lives.

I haven't painted him yet.
>>
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>>49262971
>>
>>49261594

But you get the job done! Thats where the difference is.
A hard weeks work has left me less of a man. Sunken deeper than the fodder in my computer chair should logically allow for, I have bunkered myself up with various snacks, soda and YouTube. Glancing over my shoulder to see my hobby-desk literally screaming for attention!
After your picture, I actually did a base for Deathwatch overkill, last member to finish was the White Scar biker, so I figured Id at least finish the base for him. Ill finish him (and a large batch of Cultists) tomorrow I hope.
>>
>>49262991
I'd rework the pose. He looks kinda like a retard right now.

Holding that bulky weapon that way just looks bad
>>
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Finally got around to picking up a squad of veterans from the new deathwatch line, first up, a Black Templar with power sword and storm shield.

Rest of the squad will be a black shield with heavy thunder hammer, Carcharadon Astra with heavy thunder hammer (Going to turn it into a chainhammer, like the one in the Tome of Blood), Astral Knight with phase sword and storm shield and a Lamenter with power sword and storm shield.
>>
Should I (soap & water) wash my minis before or after assembling them?
>>
>>49263286
>mkIV helm on mkVIII armor
>the one armor mark in the fluff that is explicitly said to not be able to be used with anything other than mkVII mixed with the other armor mark that was incompatible with any other mark other than mkV

REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

he doesnt look bad tho
>>
>>49264454
Yeah i realised this, but I thought it would look cool and add a littl character, so let's just pretend it's modified MkVIII
>>
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>>49264454
>>the one armor mark in the fluff that is explicitly said to not be able to be used with anything other than mkVII mixed with the other armor mark that was incompatible with any other mark other than mkV

[citation needed]

If it can be mixed with MkVII, it can be mixed with MkVI. What makes MkV more compatible with it than any other mark? If they can take MkIV pieces and put them on a MkIII suit, putting a MkIV helmet on a MkVIII shouldn't be an issue.
>>
>>49264388
Ideally, you wash the sprue.

But, most importantly, make sure they're clean before painting.
>>
I have stumbled into a choice, /wip/. I'm going to strip my chaos marines, because I've gotten better at painting since I started them, and want to redo them. They're Iron Warriors right now, but I'm kind of feeling the pull to Pre Heresy World Eaters as well. I've decided the focus of this project will be "fresh off the line, with Hard Edging throughout". Thoughts, guys?

> Sorry for the long post, have a pic.
>>
Latest shitty pic.

I've started on hotrod flames. I think I got a decent shape on them. I need to do some yellow checks and dags. Think I'm gonna do the layer in Flash Gitz Yellow.
>>
>>49265613
Das one snekky git, boss
>>
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>>49265613
>>49265650
Sorry, they were just over the horizon.
>>
>>49265183
I think their pre-heresy scheme is one of the ugliest, which has its own charm. But that's kinda the thing, its subjective so do whatever the hell you want? If the models you're stripping are spiky chaos marines, those post-heresy models wouldn't be fluffy or anything but again, whatever. there's lots of conceptually creative people on /tg, so your success will have more to do with skill at modeling and painting, how well you can execute your idea
>>
>>49261282
>>49261282
Whats the big banner in the upper right? Just behind the Vindicare Assassin. It looks like it's just primed black for now.
>>
>>49266538
Nothing that I know of. You might be thinking of the Vindicaire's gun. I haven't been able to decide on the right color for it.
>>
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>>49265782
Nice, I like the full cab look. I'm going to be doing a wrecker inspired half trakk truck soon'ish for my death skulls.
>>
>>49260464
sorry! yes thank you!
>>
>>49266895
Sweet, Yeah, the whole pack-rat hauler thing you can do with ork trukks is cool, especially for Death Skulls. I've got a load of crates and jerry cans and stuff I'm gonna bundle together to put in the bed for display.

Really, really hoping for some civilian vehicles being released with the Genestealer Cults. Supposedly they're getting 1 transport and 1 flyer, and I wanna loot them already.
>>
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>>
>>49267155
Yeah I want to go strong on the fluffy side of death skulls and their tendency to go in expecting to loot during and after the battle.
>>
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>>49267287
>>
>>49267351
>>
>>49267351
>>49267287
>>49267379
Holy fuck anon focus the picture, if you're using a phone tap the mini then take the pic. I can't see shit.
From what I can see its clean but needs highlights.
>>
How good of a painted must one be to make money building, painting, and then selling armies for games like 40k or Warmachine?
How would one sell armies they've made?
>>
>>49268932
Not as good as you'd imagine. Some people just want slightly better than tabletop standard, and are willing to pay for it. The key would be doing models fast enough at a consistent quality.

My guess would be batch mini building > batch airbrush shading > batch detailing on a popular army choice like ultrasmurfs, or maybe even blood ravens for videogame plebs. Sell a basic dude for $6-10 a pop, and you'll be rich if you can produce one in under 30 minutes.
>>
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>>49268932
>How good of a painted must one be to make money building, painting, and then selling armies for games like 40k or Warmachine?

That depends on how much money you intend to make at it.

I remember many years ago when the City of Wichita Falls (that's Texas, not Kansas, for those of you who don't know) commissioned a sculptor create bronze statues (pic related) celebrating a common folk etymology of the word "wichita" - and hence the city's namesake. The city paid sculptor Jack Stevens handsomely for his work, but it took him a long time to sculpt and cast the lifesize bronze piece.

By the time he was finished, he'd calculated that with the hours he'd put in on his creation from start to finish, that he'd made less than minimum wage.

Where was I going with this? If you're not phenomenal, your time is probably better spent being employed at a job that gets you a shot at a promotion and maybe some benefits.

>How would one sell armies they've made?

I would start on eBay, but then again, I have a good reputation there. Other valid avenues would be the various Facebook groups and Bartertown.
>>
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New thread, for those who are done sitting here on the bottom of /tg/:

>>49269910
>>49269910
>>49269910
>>
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I'm about to start my first paint job on some WFB chaos warriors for a Chaos Undivided army, I know most of the painting tips. thin your paints, remove mold lines, thin your paints, etc but I got a few questions before I start.

how to palette? I know there's something people do to get a wet, re-usable palette.

Basing, I want to paint my models then put them onto a base which I made, but I don't want to put them onto a base before I paint it. If I use super glue thin to put them onto the base, then paint them, can I pop them off the base and scrape off the glue residue and then re-attatch them later when the base is done?
Thread posts: 321
Thread images: 97


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