WIP Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Just finished my Decimator and trial TIE Fighter, and I'm pleased with how it's come out. I'm at least confident enough now. to start the other ships.

Okay, so I'm going to reveal how much of a total noob I am and ask about primer.

I did read through most of the provided not-Citadel painting guides and they talk about base coats and spray guns and the like. Can I just get a spray can of primer and use that as my base coat and just layer on top of it?

I'm not going for the top-quality paint jobs I see on here and in the GW catalog, so is it acceptable to just do that? Plus I have shaky hands. The number of models I have where the eyes are off to the side of where I was trying to paint is legion.

>>46014736
I guess so, just be careful to spray correctly.

However, since basecoats are so easy to correct, and so big, you can go ahead and use your brushes for that.

Finally, apart from obvious eyes like eyes lenses, most small eyes can be left dark, just apply some washes and highlights in the right place and you'll be good.

>>46014736
Yes. It's exactly how I did the skin on my tyranids. 2 LIGHT coats of black spray paint, dry brush 3 layers of lighter greys.

The key with most cans is a flat mix, and do NOT put it all on in one coat. Most cans like krylon will mud up the textures if the paint goes on too thick. 2 light dusting should be able to cover the model enough for you to work from there.

How long do you guys let your paints dry before putting on another coat?

>>46015170
3 days

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750 points of 2nd ed Orks... of about 1,500 (want to get some speedsters and a Mekboy Gargant painted too....). Night time is not the best time to photograph, alas.

In the Background is 750 points of knock-off Slaanesh daemons (its not perverted painting tits in 6mm scale) and about 650 of the lesser-spotted Tech-Guard assault troopers.... in assault chimeras. A shame they never made it into 40k, they were released about 5 years before the 28mm scale version was iirc.

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more hazard stripes /tg! also darkened down the hooverpads with a tin bitz wash i did'nt like the silvery look the had before

>>46015170
Depends but I prefer to wait a good 5 minutes for standard thinned paints and an hour, juuuuust to be sure, for washes.

>>46015440
Emperor on earth, that's beautiful

Im stripping my minis, i usually use superclean, will isopropyl alcohol do the same job? The primer was too thick but the superclean wont take off the primer.

>>46016003
What is it?

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Ben getting some of the sisters cleaned up and based, I can't trust the ankles on these so I've been drilling up the flat foot and pinning then using some guitar wire. Also fixed up two servoskulls that had broken.

>putting together a terminator for the first time
my hand is screaming in agony holding these tiny ass pieces trying to shave mold lines off them

but anyways

if i'm doing 3 of these guys with claws, should i glue the arms on before priming? what about the helmet? i feel like getting at it when it's glued might be hard.

>>46016316
China or does /tg/ sell them as finecast for a billion dollarydoos?

>>46016436
Helmet is fine to glue before priming, but I'd suggest putting the arms on later

>>46016483
I meant GW. My mind is fuck.

>>46016489
Alright.

I actually have some putty I could try using, be better to use the putty so the model is dry fitted then prime it, then disassemble and paint as I go?

Or are termies too small for that to be effective.

>>46016483
They're china, was coolcast about 2 years ago. They sold them in bundles of 11, 7 normal/superior/flamer/melta/stomrbolter. Then they sold special weapons in two packs. I got 140ish models for about $80. But they stopped selling sisters a while ago.

>>46016545

Try a dry fit, glue what you're gonna glue now
Disassemble your subassemblies
Prime them separately
Paint them separately
Assemble

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Who? /hwg/ here? Currently working on some American Revolution Brits (and Hessians).

>>46015947
Thanks! The simple sight of large 40k-universe games in a sensible scale just makes me happy! (And completing an entire company just feels really good ;) ). Need to pick up some of the 'Evil Sunz only' battlewagons they did too. I'm thinking two squadrons... bowel-burnas and spleen-rippas. They just don't name em' like they used to... *Sigh*

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I want to make my caste appear like an elite strike force. Are more expensive paints worth it? I got 50 cent shit from Wal-Mart because I like having money.

>>46016690
One thing.

I'm trying to do the... belt like things.

Do I put the raised part on the back to the little bump on the belt, or is that supposed to go under that?

>>46016885
Forgot to mention i am going to make armor glossy black. Primer only atm

>>46016898
We're gonna need pics, anon.

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>>46016970
Phone camera is garbage, sorry.

Do you see what I mean though?

>>46016302

Hutchuck, an ogryn merc from Warmachine. Unfinished

>>46017032
It attaches below the belt

>>46017218
Alright, thanks.

>Started pouring as I got up to go prime

Welp.

>>46016755
I envy your paint rack.

These little shields that are supposed to block the gap on the pauldrons on terminators?

Yeah, fuck them.

>>46016755
Nice rack.

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This is not mine, but does anyone think they know how he got this brown?

What si the difference between those two Tartaros kits?
https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-GB/Legion-Tartaros-Terminators

https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-GB/Tartaros-Pattern-Terminator-Armour

>>46018187

Did you read the descriptions?

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I am rebuilding my entire IG army following a mechanized infantry theme, with each veteran squad having something special to characterize them

this is the current wip of the first squad, but I am not fond on the armor. any suggestions on how to improve it? because I'm starting to think I fucked up the armor

>>46016903
Probably. It depends on how good a painter you are. If you're 'Meh' I've seen a lot of mooks get passable-to-really-good results with GW's paint system. If you're crap... you can be crap with GW paint too. As long as it's acrylic model paint it should be ok-ish... even some non-model paint can be used if you know how.

>>46018175
Ink/washes over a sand or bone colour I'd guess.

>>46018364
Armour looks fine, but the shoulder pads have been shaded completely wrong. You need to paint the lighter side at the top and the darker at the bottom you dingus.

>>46018548
can I just punch myself for forgetting SOMETHING BASIC?

>Wanted to finally get the terminator librarian for my list and paint it
>Someone fucking stole it from the store I go to
God damn it.

>>46016755
What's a good company to start with for high quality historical minis? I'd like some just for fun painting, not to build an army. I am open to almost any period, but 15th century or medieval knights would be cool. I'm open to it all though. I have looked around and see a lot of low quality stuff.

>>46019176
I don't own any but any time I see some Perry foot knights I'm tempted to buy some.

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>>46018175
Which part of the model are you referring to?

>GUO progress

Oh Simple Green, Lord of the Unpainted, save me from my missteps.

All 1000 point SM army of them.

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>>46014224
Which looks the best? Sotek Green on Stegadon Scale Green, Russ Grey, Elysian Green, or Loren Forest? I'm leaning to far left or far right.

>>46020835
I like neither of the two on the right. I think the far left is your winner.

>>46020835
>>46021003
Yeah, the darker blue for the fatigues looks good.

>>46020835
nigga you need to THIN YOUR FUCKING PAINTTTTTTTTTTTSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

>>46021089
Any thinner and it just kind of sits on water and doesn't cover the base at all, though. I think the flash makes it look blobbier than it is.

>>46021003
>>46021025
Oh good, that means less work for me!

>>46019366
I just decided to poke around their website. Holy fuck, why can't GW prices be this low? I know where I'm going for alternate =][= crusaders now.

>>46021211
>thins with water
thats pleb tier shit nigga, use a proper thinner, it makes life way easier

>>46021243
>mfw I've been telling people to get acrylic thinner and the faggots just go "LOL PAYING FOR OVERPRICED WATER IT DOES THE SAME THING"
>for fucking years
>like from 2013-2015
>just fucking gave up

Don't bother. They probably think kolinsky sable is the same as dollar store brushes.

>>46021211
Ignore >>46021243 for now.

Remember St. Duncan: it's better to have multiple thin coats than one thick one.

It might not be that your paint needs to be thinner, you might need to control how much is on your brush better.

I'm a little suspicious that those bases don't seem to have primer on... you did prime these beforehand, right anon?

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>>46021315
fucking plebs all around

>>46018187
The termies in the first one are aspiring to be like Abaddon.

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So I think I've finished the first of my Eldar.

Going to think on it and return tomorrow to either put some more work into it or call it good.

Sorry for shit pic. Didn't feel like setting up my lightbox.

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Found this neat guy at a random LGS I found today. Had a ton of orcs and some Ral Partha as well.

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>>46021328
Sprayed the primer on and did the basecoat before gluing them. Usually do 2 water-thinned coats. Need better brushes.

Here's a model I've completed, for reference. My phone definitely takes potato pics which is odd for an S5. I think my camera is just busted.

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>>46021403

>>46021461
maybe its your primer then, that shit still looks thick

>>46021495
Could be, I have to spray it rather close (~1 foot) since I'm indoors. It's the Rust-oleum 2x flat gray primer though, which a bunch of people recommended to me.

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>>46021461
How to not take potato pics.

Your prep isn't great- take your time removing mold lines, like on those missile launchers.

The unpainted basing sand looks pretty weird- give it a base, wash and drybrush and it won't look so foreign.

>>46021495
You can also see where on the gun the basecoat has rubbed off after being dry for weeks, and you can see the wash had plenty of space to get into the leg plates.

>>46021522
thats it probably. a huge mistake people make is they completely cover the model with primer, dont do that. its really just a light dusting you need. IT helps your models be more durable as well. the paint actually adhere to model, not the primer

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going nuts making casts

>>46021545
Thanks for the pic tips. Yeah, sadly I started painting before I really understood mold lines, I was overeager because it was my first stuff (plus it came from the worst of the popular recasters).
It's funny you mention the sand, because that's not basing sand, it's actually from the beach. Boiled and baked.

>>46021571
Okay, that I definitely did NOT know, awesome.

>>46021670
when you rattlecan prime it should be quick short bursts. like anything it should take 2-3 coats nigga. dont ever stop the spray can moving either. start spraying before the models, make your pass, and let off after the model all in one move

>>46021594
>sand on a base

Basing sand. Mine comes from the builder's merchant, but I still call it basing sand.

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These just arrived. Need to weather intensifies...

>>46021578
Is dat one of dem warm up and press on bit type of mould dealies there?

>>46021403
Craftworld Wa'Ter Mel'On

>>46021461
>>46021522
Painter's Touch 2x cover?
Shit covers SUPER fast. Only spray in bursts but try not to mist it otherwise it'll come out chalky. I love that brand but I'm going to try Model Master grey and white.
Anyone ever use Model Master grey/white primers?

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early wip looted carnifex. the carnifex looks fucked because i built it entirely out of spare sprue bits my friend gave me.

>>46021461
IT'S GREY AND RED MARINES GUY ALL OVER AGAIN

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>>46021966
>Craftworld Wa'Ter Mel'On
Regularly at war with a female Catachan unit.

>>46021315
>>46021243
If I were to do this, how would I prep it? Like do I need a dropper or something?

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will paint a mouth or a WAAAGH on the panel

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wagh

>>46022241
Shame she's all thighs and no hips

>>46022214
what guy is that?

>>46021243
Distilled water works fine if you know what you're doing.

>>46022243
nah nigga. i just use cheap shitty brushes to mix, and my thinner i keep in a small Vallejo mixing bottle

>>46022243
Get the thinner on your brush, put it on your palette.

Get the paint on your brush, mix is with the thinner.

>>46022371
a guy who was REALLY struggling to thin properly

>>46022383
keep telling yourself that pleb

>>46022371
Poor kid read all the stuff, knew he had to thin his paints.
Was putting runny, watery paint all over his marines, in red and grey, it looked genuinely awful and he was trying so damn hard.

If you're out there, red and grey marines guy, I hope your LGS guys helped you out.

>>46022434
>46022458
yeah i remember that nigga now>

>>46022458
I just kinda lurk now.

I asked around the shop and they said they're ok with unpainted stuff, but a friend of mine that goes to art school is getting into the hobby so hopefully he can help.

>>46022434
Post your work then anon, I'll take a pic of mine and post it in a second. We'll let anon decide who the pleb is. Distilled water works fine. The only time I use a thinner is in an airbrush.

>>46022561
You deserve praise for persevering at least. There is hope in your future.

>>46022655
I recently though that maybe getting the army painter red base+primer might help me at least get some practice highlight but I decided that still wouldn't teach me to basecoat properly so we'll see what happens when artfag friend comes around.

I'm still thankful for all the help people tried to give, and I've at least been working on getting mold lines removed properly.

>scraping metal mould lines off with a fine x-acto razor
>blade chips off and bounces off my face like millimeters from my eyeball
Jesus christ

>>46022567
>>46022434

It's obvious that thinners are a useful tool, or they wouldn't be used by people who produce really nice paintjobs. At the very top end, it's one more tool in the toolbox, and I'd be interested to know how many Golden Daemon top-3s didn't use any (because I bet it would be a small proportion).

It's obvious that you can, however, produce really nice paintjobs without thinner- people do all the time.

I don't think recommending thinner to people who still have a lot to learn with respect to things that can be done with water is a good idea: it doesn't just make you less shit at painting and you can still produce a shite paintjob with acrylic-thinned paints.

I also don't think that thinner is necessary for 90% of decent tabletop-quality painting.

>>46022766
>>46022766
It helps a ton when youre new, it fucks with the surface tensions so the pain doesnt bead and run when its thin

>>46022690
BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD

>>46022690
anon you could have blinded yourself and you're that lax about it?

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>>46022567
>>46022567
>>46022567
>>46022567
leviathan stealers

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>>46022434
>>46022567

Ok Picasso, does this look thick to you? This is thinned with distilled water, through a .2 and a .25 nozzle. Get down off your high horse bro, everyone doesnt do things the way you do. Dont be the retard that thinks he knows everything.

New Deathwatch version of Cassius came out surprisingly good for conversion purpose, almost all vital parts are detachable. Any suggestion for a replacement head for new Cassius? I would like to have both pre-skulled and post-skulled version of his head.

>>46022909
thin your paints!

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>>46021578
>going nuts making casts

Anon after my own heart ...

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>>46022958
Bionic screaming head from the Reclusiam Command Squad Chaplain?

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>>46021705
>start spraying before the models, make your pass, and let off after the model all in one move

This anon speaks the truth!

>>46022909
the paint is nice, but you could use a little more detail on the knight's bases, like a little ruined building, like a munitorium or some kind of temple

>>46023001
Looks nice, thanks!

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>>46022958
>New Deathwatch version of Cassius

Pic related. Just happened to have one handy.

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>>46023019

>>46023019
Yea I have a bunch of stuff for bases I gotta go back and do, Im just trying to knock out 2000 points of Nurgle Daemons, so everything else is on hold right now.

>>46023153
Just ordered mine today, little disappointing that it won't be so easy to put a combi-flamer on him nicely without a full arm replacement.

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Hi guys, I need your help on writing an email to FW. You see, I'm not a native English speaker, thus can't exactly find right word to describe this kind of... miscast. (Sorry for not posting actual miniature picture; I'm on outside now) How would you native speakers describe this? Pic related.

>>46023255
slipped casting

>>46023255
Is this supposed to mean that if they were trying to cast a square piece, you got a piece like that?

'Misaligned moulds' describes that problem pretty well.

>>46023153
I am surprised from that they made the hand and chest purity seal detachable. Way to go GW

>>46023255
slippage

>>46023286
Yup, it's like when you look at their legion lascannon from behind, that boxed side...

>>46023153
I'm kinda curious. Do other miniatures also have that elbow-decor attached to their shoulder pad like this Cassius? Or attached to their arm itself?

the Horus Heresy board game thing

the models are plastic yeah?

>>46023491
yes

>>46023491
Betrayal at Calth, those dudes are plastic. And assemble-able. I bought some dude's last un-assembled terminators from that set today.

>>46023491
They're plastic, multi-part, the only thing you're really missing out on compared to the regular kits is grav weapons.

Also it's one of the only ways to get dreadnought multimeltas.

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Technically WIP.
Just got my first air brushing kit and built a booth to spray in.
Currently spraying some age old terrain, trying to learn trigger control.

>>46023528
>>46023563
>>46023564
cool i mostly wanted the marines because i like the armor in that a lot more

could i make them work for assault and devs right outta the box or would i need to do some green stuff work first?

>>46014425
I'm not a big fan of the paint. Can you use tape to get smooth edges? Keep in mind i have no idea what im talking about.

>>46023428
Take a look for yourself~
http://www.spikeybits.com/2016/02/breaking-deathwatch-kill-team-cassius-sprue-pictures.html

>>46023614
Assault- No (And while this opinion really belongs in 40kg, you don't want assault marines)
Dev- Only Missile Launcher or Heavy Bolter, and only 3 of each of those.

>>46023614
They don't really come with enough weapons? They're meant to be either Veteran Tactical Squads or Tactical Squads from 30k really.

There's 3 of each Vet / Tactical Sprue, each with a Flamer, Melta, Plasma, Heavy Bolter, Missile Launcher, Chainsword, Power Sword, 2 Power Fists (with optional Lightning Claw add-on), Bolt pistol, Plasma Pistol, Combi-weapon, and Melta Bomb.

>>46023428
>>46023620
Crap, found better pics plus the manual:
http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2016/02/deathwatch-overkill-week-day-2-the-deathwatch-minis.html

>>46023672
>>46023683
i see
i could just use them to replace the 3 tac squads in my list then

thanks lads

>>46021823
Oyamaru I believe it's called. It takes a few tries to get a good mold, but once you do your good to go for at least 20 casts before you need to make it again

>>46014736


>top-quality paint jobs I see on here

HAHAHAHAHhahahagdhshshahshahaha

>>46023799
Someone hasn't seen that Tzeentch daemons guy, holy shit.

>>46023799

Shutup, green, pink, purple and gold totally work for my Menoth!

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>>46022958
I've ordered this helmet for mine. That synergy with the vents on the mk4 suit, man.

>>46023845
Why didn't you just take one of mine senpai? BaC comes with 6 extra Mk 4 heads / helmets.

>>46016885
the way I look at it, if you're spending $50 on plastic minis, why do you want to present them with $.50 paint? Protect your minis and make them look good. $3 for a thing of paint really isn't that large of an investment, especially if you've already convinced yourself that spending that much money on the minis themselves is ok.

>>46014224
Hey Wip i have a engraving laser, how do i make terrain with it. I want to make buildings and stuff is there a place where i can download some?

>>46023898
Because I live in a dank-ass cave and don't want to talk to real people right now.

also picked up some some scion bits from the same seller to make use of my millions of spare heads, guns and packs

>>46023948
also what other useful things could i make

>>46023960
better than living in a dank ass-cave i suppose

>>46024017
I'll graduate from dank-ass cave to regular-ass cave soon enough, but I've got some kind of stomach bug.

Painting's a pain while nauseous, but I've been swapping some deathwatch heads. Pretty simple so far.

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Okay so before you all rip me to shreds these are literally the first models i have painted ever.

I've gone a shade too dark but if try highlighting it looks horrible. Should i just cut my losses and do better on the next 6 dudes?

>>46024373
After a wash one of the things to do is reset the base colour by going over everything but the recesses with the base colour again. It's not really highlighting but it brings the colour back out from the shading.

>>46024373
They look fine, especially for first miniatures

One of the things with highlighting is you can think it's overpowering up-close, but really pop once they're on the table.

That said, nothing hugely wrong with these guys. Are they Bolt Action?

>>46018187
One comes with basic weapons, the other doesn't

>>46024428
Problem with that is the spray coat was Army painter desert yellow and the colour i was told to go over it with (vallejo desert yellow) look totally different.


And yeah bolt action bersaglieri. A shitty choice for power gamimg but im all about the feathered hats

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heres where i'm up to with my skorcha, i've done the basecoats and one nuln wash over all the metals

i come seeking advice on what to do next. should i wash the reds with carrabourgh crimson? with layering, how should i build up the reds? would a red base with orange layer and yellow highlights look good or make it llook like it was on fire

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I've learned a lot painting my first 5 minis ever:

-Get a system, you forget to much shit doing it without an order
-fucking monopose snap fit a shit
-'ardcoat is not a good final coating
-no pink on the shoulder pad
-I wasn't prepared for greenstuff
-I think I would prefer the bigger base sizes
-that reminds me
>fuck snapfit
-subtle highlights are better

With that out of the way, what color should I paint my bases?

>>46023219
You could just have him one handing the combi flamer, and just remove the pistol at the base.

>>46024884
>one handing

That's the plan. When you say at the base, are you meaning cutting just above the hand?
That's plan B and should be fine, but without the feed-link to the pistol I'd have just taken off his hand at the wrist and whacked one of the Sternguard combi-flamers (complete with hand) on there.

>>46024847
>Ardcoat is not a good final coating
It's not bad, you just have to remember to put a matte coat over it. In Citadel paints that's Lahmian Medium. Dulls down the shine, and shit doesn't scratch off.

I usually recommend painting basing material. Especially stuff like rocks can look really out of place next to a painted mini. Flock and tufts are usually fine to put on after painting it. I'm a big advocate of black base rims, because it's the cleanest look.

>>46024972
>Sternguard combi-flamers
ahh yeah I made my combi weapon so I didn't have an already attached hand. That would have made sense though.

>>46025014
>Lahmian Medium
Thanks for the info, And Ill keep the painting of rocks in mind for next time, I didn't even consider that.

>>46025086
If you have a brush on primer, you can still hit the rocks easily enough. Base dark blue, brown, or grey, wash black or brown, drybrush grey or tan and you're in the clear.

>>46025186
I have some brush on vallejo primer but last time I tried that its looked like garbo, like someone attempted to cream on my mini

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Making a Deathwatch assault squad. Haven't even finished the basecoats yet though, nor cleaned it up.

Flesh Tearer on the left, Space Shark on the right.

I scraped out the Space Sharks mouth a bit, so its deeper, and more shark like. The skirt part is a lightning claw, but I'm going to paint it as bone. Like some kind of carved pacific islander cannibal clothing.

With the Flesh tearer, I'm going to greenstuff the backpack emblem a bit better, now that I look at it.

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Bit more progress on the blasta bommer

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>>46025464
also doing some count-as sternguard.

iron hands, blood angel, raven guard.

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>>46025556
Should I keep the wings level or have them at an obnoxious angle?

>>46025615
I think it looks better level, angled reminds me to much of SM stuff

>>46025582

Where'd you get those arms fucker

DW Overkill?

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Decided to make a trophy for my group's upcoming Blood Bowl season and tournament cup. I spent 3 hours tonight putting together a 3-d skull puzzle only to decide that the size wasn't right when I was finished.

The football on top is a night-light and I'm hoping that by the time I'm done, the trophy will still light up.

Next step: adding some gubbins.

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Posting abandoned projects

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>>46025744

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>>46025764

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>>46025660
I'm not using the jump pack guys, so I got two from DW.

But I got about 5 from left-over Sternguard shoulders. Theres about a 7 you could use.

Also the Grey Knights terminator shoulders work as well, but look a bit big.

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>>46025785

>>46025744
Jesus Christ, make a fucking collage

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On my way to purge your bitch ass.

Or die before I make it across the table.

>>46026018
>omw to getting all those mold lines and obvious nubs of sprue filed off me before anon has /wip/ rip him a new one

Anyone tried using Scion helmets & arms on Scouts here? I'm kind of curious if they would fit or not. Scout's a bit bland for my taste...

>>46026042
That too.

My eyes are really bad and I honestly can't see most of them.

>>46026005
I'll stop now

>>46026070
get better light

>>46026005
How would I go about doing that, I have large pictures and 8 of them.

>>46026189
Crop out the masses of blank space, use paint or whatever you're confident with to make the cropped images into one big image.

>>46026018
The fuck is that white shit. Some kind of glue?

>>46026449
looks like he's just tacked the arms on for the time being

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This is my first painted model since I was like twelve or something.

I'm not sure what the next step us since I'm a colossal newbie when it comes to model painting. What should I do next/unfuck?

Sorry for ass image quality but the phone's all I got and the lighting can't be changed easily at 1 AM

>>46026449
It's just putty.

I wanted to take the arms off to decide which pose I actually want using the hammer and shield.

>>46026559
battle damage, or weathering.

personally i would get a brassy paint like brass scorpion and highlight all the rivets, or at least the big ones

nice colour scheme :)

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Well after much spam posting I got half of it delivered. Still need to get the two high elf phoenix, a couple more 54mm gladiators, another Warlord testudo phalanx and a dragon for my high paladin. I'll be using these as count as Basileans for Kings of War.

Sorry for the size of the image in advance.

>>46026559
That's a nice start, now start weathering and highlighting.

>>46026559
A wash.

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>>46026598
Imperial Romans are from Wargames Foundry, beautiful minis and I'd love to order from them again. The delivery time was a little while though, about 6 weeks from the UK.
The gladiators are likely recast Pegaso and some other manufacturer that I got from ebay at around $9 per. The ones I'll be getting soon will probably be directly from the manufacturer but will be 60mm which I'm still unsure of given the scale difference. These will be $24 per.
The shield testudo (tortoise in Italian) is from Warlord games. It's a revision of the original which was multipart in terms of the walls of the formation with the lid of shields. The new model consists of a base of casted legs, separate torsos and heads with shields casted and finally the shield top that hasn't changed. Sadly either it was poorly made or something occurred with the mould so the legs won't line up with the upper half very well. I'll have to painstakingly hot knife the feet from the base to be applied to the upper half.
The bases are ofcourse entirely OOP GW regimental trays. They are available on ebay for about $50 or so USD but I was able to grab a set from a friend for free. They were originally $10 shelf price. Ridiculous.

>>46026572
Damn. I recently bought some models off ebay and the guy glued them together with some weird white shit that feels kinda like grout, and I wanted to get rid of it

>>46025615
Angled. F4U Corsair best girl.

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Still working on these 30k Night Lords fuckers, time to start basing.

>>46018187
The cloth in particular

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Reposting an idea I had about making a slime army.

Want to buy a bunch of recast chinaman skeletons since it doesn't matter if they come destroyed from shipping and position them with wire on bases. I'd then place the painted wire framed floating skeletal bits upside down in a mould to be casted via injection method. The resin I'd use would be clear but tinted green (or purple, not sure which). I would do the same if I want cavalry units but as bigger versions with both horse and rider.

I should mention I'm familiar with casting so it won't be an issue, technically wise.

>>46024847

Holy shit that basing.

Did you go to the aquarium store or something?

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>>46027482
I remember my first models(when I was 11) were based with sand and gravel I got from my backyard, had a whole plastic container of them and I was always on the lookout for nicely shaped pebbles

>It's been more than a decade

>>46025744
A-abandoned? But, why anon-kun? Those are all sweet.

>>46025615
I vote level.


>>46026598
Bad ass. That testudo is making me jealous.

>>46024847
Damn fine work for your first minis. I'd be proud to put those down on the table. You're gonna go far, kiddo.

>>46022690
Be a dork and put on some safety glasses when you do that. It's super uncool, but better than going blind.

>>46016003

Could you pls stop spamming the same pic of your orc for days?

>>46022690
How horrifying.

wear safety goggles

>>46023019
Hehehe

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Almost finished this beast. Just need to highlight the red and wash some of the shiny red. Still I think he looks bad ass already.

Yo Model Masters grey primer sucks shiny dick trying the white now

>>46022909
What is that tank on the left and where do I get it?!

>>46028747
What model is that? Solid - I like it

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WIP - Taurox Prime. Any suggestions?

>>46028946
Sicaran from Forgeworld

>>46028980
swap to autocannons

Otherwise no, looks alright so far. Real shame the light battle cannon and gatling cannons are so mediocre, they're super cool looking.

>>46026598

Holy shit, it's actually happening. They look pretty nifty, though how do you deal with the testudo losing men in-game?

As a final note, anon - resist the temptation to post this image in every thread while you wait for your can of primer to arrive in the mail, and we'll be golden.

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Buy this and fuck around with it, there is no excuse its like $5

>>46029066

How are your large Liquitex products $5. Mine are $8-10 for all of them, whether they're cleaners, thinners, varnish, etc. It's all fucking $8-10.

I think it might just be the ritzy hipster art store overpricing everything.

>>46028747
Pretty good.

>>46028967
Aquila Guard with HMG. Infinity.

>>46029065
Thanks alot! It's about time I post them honestly.
The game system I'm using them for (Kings of War) uses unit morale instead of number of models removed when it comes to breaking tests. I like it alot more so I don't have to fiddle around with removal and I can have mini dioramas for each unit.
Yeah I'm going to start painting soon so I'll keep you updated.

>>46029062
Yeah I know - a lot of the kit looks so impressive but is so useless. Hopefully they get more models... even a single other unit would be nice. 1800pts in Scions, Taurox and Valkryies is kind of cool but very repetitive...

>>46029316
desu they were kind of an afterthought and meant to be used as supplements to other armies

>>46029382
wait wait wait "t b h" no spaces turns to desu?

>>46029392
how new r u senpai

>>46029392
In response to people constantly shitposting the acronym for "shaking my head to be honest family"

>>46029437
desu not that new at all baka

>>46029103
Over here in Sweden they are around $12-15, the hipster did this.

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Making a bolt something. Once the glue sets I'm going to drill some holes in the barrel. Probably going to shorten the barrel too.

What would you put in an ultra sonic cleaner to remove paint?.

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>>46029911
paint

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anyone, feel free to weigh in with what you think of my progress and tell me if you think i can do something better, or should do something differently.

>>46025014
Might be better to just buy a gloss and matte varnish spray to make sure you get a nice, even coat. Also, your minitures looks pretty fucking dope.

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Finally got this guy fully painted up. I probably could of gone with a better background, it really has washed a lot of the color out a little.

I just wanted something that looked nice.

>>46030005
wtf is wrong with his giant neck

>>46030052
Dunno, but he has QUARTZ MOVEMENT!

>>46030052
Yeah I should of completely snipped off the original neck and gs'd my own.

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>>46020835
On on the right is how my whole army is painted. That is one of the first I did after a 10 year break.

I have a dark blue for the clothing, sotek green for the armour parts and weapon and yellow for the details, which for the first few looked a little bit shit(the yellow).

Simple design, looks cool for me and easy to paint because if you mess the sotek green and it transfers to the clothing it won't look that bad.

>>46030278
Fuck. On the left*

>>46018175

Dark yellow with washes

>>46022280
this looks really stupid. i hope that's what youre going for. it looks even beyond the carnifex being burdened down by the orks on top. its basically a crab walker.

>>46023603
i never spray in a booth. am i going to die?

>>46030634
We all are, eventually.

>>46030622
Don't worry, all his nid orks look like shit, so this ties in.

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warmawhore here, i think this is going to turn out good. im going to have to clean up the drybrushing on the blight a bit but i think im pleased with the effect. doesnt look great on phone camera though. I feel like this is one of those "it looks shit til its done" paint jobs.

>>46030634
As long as you can get decent airflow you should be fine. I airbrush next to a large open window with a fan circulating air and I've had no problems in all the years of use.

>>46028980
>>46029062
Pintle mounted twin-linked autocannons!

>>46029942
Highlighting the ork skin with a lighter shade of green and an aggrax wash on the bronzes wouldn't hurt but over all you're getting there anon!

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stripe's still a little crooked, but I'll.. not stress over it now

>>46030818
It'll look fine on the tabletop anyway. Looking great though, I feel like there's a definite lack of colour in 40k paint schemes as of late.

>>46030818
very clean. i like these a lot

>>46030818
Neat. You should totally add the second edition style company markings and lighting bolts to your vehicles. The only thing I'm not 100% fond of are the red shoes.
Seems a little extravagant.
Top notch painting though.

>>46030818
>milk
>bread
>eggs
>bolts
>skulls

Those scroll on the sarcophagus remind me of a shopping list.

Excellent painting though. Ultras really shine when you go all 2nd ed on them.

>>46030622
It's my first big scratch build model. Since its all spare parts, nothing lost on practise, right?

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>>46030863
only going to be a couple of vehicles (stormderp, rhino, maybe a pred), but they'll probably get some markings.

Feet weren't originally going to be red (nor were the dreanought's cables), but it would just be wrong to ignore red present in the red period.

>>46030852
>>46030857
>>46030888
Thanks dudes, I'm having fun with it. I'll have to purge the nice feelings with some black and gunmetal deathwatch afterwards.

>>46030890
true i didnt want to be as mean as i sounded, but I think looted carnifex is a great idea you could do real justice if you just got a bit more of the parts it needed.

>>46030933
i might try the old school colors with my BAC ultras. thanks for inspiration anon

>>46030890
maybe take inspiration from this >>46024027

>>46031003
I'm thinking I might strip the stuff off it and have a simple one model platform with just a twin linked dakka gun off a Warbuggy held on with just greenstuff straps. I'm not happy with it but I didn't want to back out or half ass it

>>46028946
Relic Sicaran from FW. Codex: SM, BA, DA, and SW can take it.

13, 13, 12, HP 3, Fast, Extra Armor
Accelerator Autocannon: str 7 ap 4, Heavy 6, Rending, Ignores Jink
Heavy Bolter and Las Sponsons
The rules and 175 point price tag makes it a good buy vs. jinking armies.

>>46025785

>no spiders coming out of their vaginas

9/10 theme, best I can do

>>46025764
What models are those? I must paint them!

So, anyone have much luck with using sprue carvings as snow for your dudes' bases? Made a few movement trays, carved some stuff out and now I'm covered in plastic.. which could be used as some sort of a decoration.

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Just started him last night, gona finish him some time in v the next couple days. First time doing shades right

>>46031187
dark elf dark riders

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Hey friends, Im ordering a unit of greylord outriders soon and was looking for suggestions on replacements for their fuckhuge axe. Like seriously that thing is way too big. Can you think of any other bits that I might be able to find to swap in? Im still new so my knowledge is limited.

>>46031507
warmachine is all about things being too big. why replace it?

>>46031544
Normally its not a problem. I got my Fenris and Vlad3 the other day and their swords and maces look fine because the whole model is big and exaggerated. The outriders just look so small compared to everyone else and their giant axes make it worse

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An old photo. Haven't got a good camera, the one i have is missing a lens so it takes blurry shitty shots.

>>46031636
love it yay warmahordes. care to show off the rest of the squad/army?

>>46031507
If you search 28mm axe I'm sure you'll find any number of things.

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>>46021403

>>46024692
THIN PAINTS!!!!!!!!!

>>46022803
Holy shit, really? That has been my biggest fucking complaint about paints I've thinned too much to keep detail, because it just runs everywhere.

About how much would a decent acrylic thinner cost? Hopefully not as much as Sable brushes (just using shitting artificial hair brushes for now since I'm newer)

>>46026626
This. Your camo is sick, but at more than a foot all the details disappear. Wash that bitch. I use Citadel, myself.

White colors love nuln oil, but be VERY careful about over-applying. You can drybrush with the base color to undo the damage, but you'll need to be precise, obviously.

The green bits seem like they'd enjoy Athonian Camoshade. Unless I'm wrong and that's dark grey, not green, in which case just nuln oil everything.

Once that's done, highlight it. The high are might go for a white drybrush, or it might look fine with no highlight at all (it's certainly bright enough). The dark bits...not sure. I can't really tell what color it is.

Are there any good painting blogs/youtubes specifically CSM?

>>46023830
Who? Most WIP Anons, who actually post WIPs, having the artistic capacity of a kindergartner.
I've gotta see this 'top-quality' paint job.

>>46032021
Thin your citadel wash with distilled water, especially when applying to models with large flat surfaces. 50/50 to start. Id also consider spraying a couple coats of satin varnish on it before applying a wash. Vallejo satin varnish is undetectable to the eye, but will really help your washes/inks stay where you want them.

>>46019659
The clothing colour if possible.

>>46032344
Post your work anon.

>>46018175
>>46032365

Looks like a khaki/sand/light brown over a black primer - with a messy brown wash over it. Probably agrax earthshade/devlin mud. The finish looks like testors dullcoat, possibly a gloss or satin finish applied before the dullcoat seal.

>>46022909
>None of these knights have churches in their bases

You are the pleb here, fampai

>>46022241
Is that how the catachan woman giving birth looks like?

new to painting, is airbrush worth it?

>>46033084
Not if you don't know how to use it.

>>46024692
>i come seeking advice on what to do next
Strip it, learn to paint and start over.

>>46033108
nvm found the problem :)

>>46033084
You could learn driving a tank before doing your standard license. But it does not guarantee being able to parallel park a pinto in rush hour while you eat a sandwich and shitpost in a wip thread with the other hand, because you had no problem doing it with your abrams tanks (while crushing both adjacent cars in the process, because it saved time).
Both are separate skills delivering the (almost) same results, but must be learned one after another.

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Started work on my Necron bases since it's been raining all day and I've been unable to prime shit. Still not sure how to base properly, so far I've glues on the crystals lightly (gonna snap them off when I need to prime) and I need to glue on the small stones. What's the best way to do it? I've heard using a 50/50 PVA to water mixture is good but I'm not sure.

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>>46033028
kek

>>46033231
Buy a big pot of acrylics based plaster in your local DIY/hobbystore, smear it around the crystals, or glue down a few pebbles beforehand.

Let it dry for a bit and apply a watered down base coat of your chosen color, maybe brown or dark grey. If you picked the right moment the paint will get sucked in by the plaster, saving time and stripping the crystals. Apply as many coats as you wish and let the plaster dry fully (maybe a few hours). Apply drybrush or any details, paint the base rim, done without using glue or any other shit which takes ages to cure and without danger of smearing stuff on the crystals (which look dope btw).

>>46033231

For sand, PVA glue with some water mixed in. Then dip the base in the sand or sprinkle sand on top of it. Let it dry. When it's dry, tap the base or brush it with an old brush, some sand will always drop off. Quite often you might need to do another layer of sand, again just use pva mixed with water and repeat the first steps. Let it dry again.

Then when it's dry you can use little bit of pva and water mix to seal the sand in place. If you do this, there is a significantly lesser chance of the sand falling off when you use the miniature. It is also easier to paint the sand when you have sealed it with the pva glue and water mix.

For glueing stones, I'd recommend hot glue or super glue. PVA glue is okay-ish for small stones but the bigger the stone, the bigger the risk of it falling off.

>>46033302
>>46033315
Thanks for the tips. I think rocks was the wrong term, it's more like a slight step up from sand, like a fine grain, it's one of the army painter ones.

>>46032344
What a douche.

>>46033084
Yes, my advice do it right away. It will save you a huge amount of time, and is far easier to get cool effects than doing it with a brush - that goes for beginner or pro.
Start with an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS, it should be a .25 nozzle. You're gonna learn a lot of shit the hard way, but why wait a year or two to do it when you can start now. You'll still be using a regular brush anyway.

>>46025615
angled

>>46032021
Thanks for your detailed feedback.

The color is indeed green. The stropes are made with a couple coats of abby black, then a couple of... I think caliban green, then some light brushing of castellan green on top of that, if it changes much.

>>46033673
I've got an HP-CS; .35 is what it comes with by default (not that you really need smaller that that for minis).

>>46016258
Yes but don't use it with resin, it'll eat the resin

>>46028805
>Testors paints
Oh anon...

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DoC and Terrain

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WIP converting a Leman Russ to a Looted Wagon. Needs some greenstuffing and I'm gonna add a catwalk platform to the back, and a commander popping out the top hatch.

>>46034826
Needs a metric fuckton more of plasticard and rivets.

Also, careful with those moldlines on the cannon.

>>46034933
Yeah it needs a good chunk of work. I just started it today

>>46021420
tell me more friend
any battletech minis?

How can I go about making a wet blood effect, like Blood for the Blood God Technical but in a different color? I want to make some purple Tyranid blood for my Space Hulk minis.

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Flatmate gave me this awesome metal Killa Kan as a gift, i am new to WH40k but have done some model painting in my time, what color schemes would you recommend for me for the painting? Gonna get more Orks soon to complement it.

>>46035028
Not much to tell, It's an Allied Hobbies on Grant Boulevard in Philly

Bunch of pathfinder, reaper, OOP GW, Ral Partha, West Wind and a couple others. No battletech but they have like 101 metal tau ethereals that will never leave the store.

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Finished a dok. What u think? Need to finish base.

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>>46035522
sorry

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Behind

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>>46035588
sorry again

>>46014425

You could do with a tidy up on those edges. And as anon already mentioned, try using masking tape next time for an even cleaner result.
On the other hand, you will be facing other x-wing players who almost never paints stuff, so your bound to get a lot of "oh´s and ah´s" anyway for your effort.

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WIP hornets, going ink around the bumps and crevices with a soft tone, then work on the gems on the surfaces.

WK been WIP for ages. Same thing, soft brown around the white on the guns, more light blue edge hi-lights for the teal, then gems. Just finished those rangers below - I love how they look and they suck on the field.

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Does it look like wood grain?

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>>46035849
forgot the img

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all these little riders to layer and hi-light before they go in their seats.

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>>46021403

>>46035522
looks booring desu, no highlights, no contrast, blood looks terrible same as base, base ring not cleaned

you did noice yellow tho

>>46035902
Even racist Elfdar want dat Soritas booty.

>>46025451
I may know what your issue is, broski.

If the vallejo stuff is anything like what Citadel sells, then it's probably a bit thicker than normal. You need to mix the stuff very virogously before use. When I got my pots fresh from the store a lot of the pigment had separate. All you have to do is stir it with a metal stirrer or the handle of a thin paint brush. The seal the pot and shake it, then stir it, then shake it, and just repeat a couple more times to make sure it's all ready to go.

>>46035902
>eldar twerk team accompanies sweet sisters phat, divine beats

>>46035288
anyone?

>>46026070
Gonna ebay em or what?

>>46036081
I always liked Bad Moons colors

>>46035288
>>46036081

Every race has a variety of established color schemes as well as openly invites the player to create their own. There isn't any one "Good color scheme" for beginners, paint it what colors you want it. Especially for Orks, you can have each limb be a different neon color for all you care.

To keep it simple since it's your first, try to brush it with one solid color coat and one metallic color for the battle damage and metallic bitz. Then get to highlighting it.

>>46035902
>hi-light

I got a question for ya'll.
I've been very interrested in making these miniatures for a while now, but I don't have any interrest in actually starting to play anything. I just want to build, paint and collect.
Is it actually OK for me to not play with my miniatures, if I decide to buy some starting equipment?

>>46036295
highlight? crap.

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>>46035902
holy kek, I could understand genestealers or even necron scarabs, but hell, eldar guardians climbing the thing like a bunch of monkeys?

You just made my day, thank you anon.

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Just getting into warhammer and I got a few imperial off kijiji and I'm trying to turn them into zombies for my nurgle army I'm just starting.

Bought them already primed black, gave them a coating of white when a wash with anthonian camoshade and then a wash of seraphim sepia they look nice and dirty but want to try and add some detail and hints? They kinda look zombieish but I worry about their weapons

>>46036368
Buying miniatures contractually obligates you to use them for a game system otherwise the TTG police raid your home and take it all.

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>>46035161
This should help.

Start from dark coat, add lighter coats to spots where blood layer is supposed to be lighter.

You could mix paints with lots of gloss medium or even water effect to give more wet and translucent effect.

If you want really thick looking blood, screw previous hint, PAINT the light reflection spots like you would paints lenses or gems and coat the whole damn thing with gloss varnish.

>>46035854
It looks sexy

>>46036368
According to GW, they aren't a game company but a miniature company.
You are the audience they want.

Funny thing they then proceeded to make three brand new board GAMES in the same year they gave the statement.
I can't remember when they made so many new games in so short time.

>>46036795
Speaking of the games.

I really like how the BaC marines look. Are they allowed to be used as 40k marines or do I have to use them for 30k?

>>46036368
Its exactly what I end up doing desu. I've bought a load of stuff from GW, steamforged games, reaper, infinity and several others I cant even remember off the top of my head. All with 0 intention of playing with them. Just to enjoy the painting and modelling side.

At the end of the day, you bought it, so do what you want with it!

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I like the way the wood is looking

>>46036980
Pay attention to the hardware you give them (they have some options not available to 40k marines), but beyond that, knock yourself out. Your chapter simply has a lot of relic hardware at its disposal.

>>46037130
I've got a lot of left over weapons from my other squads, I could just give it to them yeah?

>>46035854

More like gouges from racing but that's cool too

>>46037167
Yup, no trouble at all.

>>46036451

Mold lines but the paint is coming out real nice

>>46037130
>they have some options not available to 40k marines
actually, the BaC marines are entirely 40k compatible

the only thing out of place is the contemptor, but that can just run as a dreadnought

>>46035562
Not bad anon but your framing needs work.

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What do you guys think on the crater I did?

Basically it is pink foam cut in a crater style with the inside removed and painted with acrylic paint.

>>46037521
Needs some highlights mang, drybrush will help.
Good one otherwise.

>>46037521
Looks like shit.
A huge, possibly squiggoth excreted, circular heap of shit.

Perfect place for space smurfs to hunker down in.