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No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's H

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Thread replies: 345
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No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz/#F!OgpwzAKS!a5eVE6pOagTTOWEr5tEaEQ

>Painting Videos
https://mega.co.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA
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Sorry for the shitty cellphone pic, but here's a WIP shot of my Counts As Hemlock, still have to do the frames on the canopy, some washes, and the wing things. What do you guys think?
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>>43928521
Looks pretty good; I like the base.
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>>43928550
Thank you anon, I plan on doing something similar for my Wraithknight, was going to have some dead Necrons scattered around the base
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Did a load of stuff with Biostrip 20 today, will post results and review later, currently Anon needs food.
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Hi, I recently started to collect models and want to try painting. So does prime coating count for the metalic skin for necron warriors?
Also any general painting advice is appreciated.
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>>43928479
Do you guys glue the model to a bare base then work on the base or work on the base first then glue the mini?
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>>43930919
I have done both. If the basing will be relatively flat, I paint the model and then attach to the finished base. If I'm going for rocky terrain or something else uneven, I paint the model on it and then paint the base.
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Can anyone comment on how Vallejo Model Carmine Red looks like vs the citadel reds? Colder/Warmer than Meph, Sunz Scarlet?
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>>43928479
So I started working with metal models for the first time and ran I accidentally dropped one of the guys after I started painting. It was an officer with a sword and the sword bent a bit. I bent it straight but when I did so a bunch of the primer paint came off. I'm an idiot and got no idea what to do, as I've already started painting so spraying on more primer isn't really an option. What do?
>>
So my flat mate just brought me the fall of calth and the space marine strike force.

Just wondering how I could make a fun and fluffy force out of this?

Anyone have any ideas?
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>>43931803
You can purchase primary that brushes on additionally you could tape it off before you spray
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>>43932516
Also if you have a crappy brush that you don't mind losing and absolutely fucking ruining you can spray onto a separate container and then brush that paint on to the model it doesn't exactly work is good and you will ruin your brush but if you're out of options and you have a spare brush
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Right, working on the eggheads it'll have alot more wires.
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Hafza coming along pretty well, still plenty to do though
really need to clean up the shoulder bits
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really early WIP of some sort of elf from Super Dungeon Explore. I'm reasonably pleased with how the eyes are looking so far, still lots to do though.
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>>43933336
it may be just me, but I sense some derpness on her eyes
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>>43933336
that bung eye
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>>43933589
yea, you may be right, I think it looks worse in the picture because of the fact the model is at a slight angle though.
still, first time trying to do big anime eyes like this so it's a learning experience. Hopefully I can fix this, or at the very least learn from my mistakes.
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>>43932858

I built a militia/cult army to make use of my vintage squats using the Survivors of the Dark Age and Abhuman Helots rules. It's a fun rule set.
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I am the guy who asked about few things in the previous thread.
I am working on my eight figurine now - Ultramarine devastator sergeant. First time drybrush - I like it. It's less pain in the ass than layering (although I did layer the helmet).
How am I doing?
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>>43933717
oh, and free company/guardsmen go together really well, but I would recommend trying to get spare skitarii arms. they go on the bodies without any green-stuffing required and the rifles look like old school lasguns.
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Oop carnisaur just need to paint the rider and fix his foot.

I used a power drill to pin it and wen all the way through.

The rider is the original body and has that cool glove but the last person that had it used a temple gaurd head and weapon hand, so I have to decide if I want to keep it that way or try to find another one.
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>>43934028
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>>43934075
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>>43934028
This is awesome.
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In order to get this red would
dark brown > mephiston red as 1 st layer > several thin layers of agrax earth shade > several thin layers mephiston drybrushed?

Or for the final step would several layers of thinned down mephiston not drybrushed be better?
>>
>>43934222
don't drybrush, especially for large flat areas, you'll just make it look chalky. Drybrushing works well on textured area like fur not power armor.
>>
What exactly is this ArmyPainter quickshade ink stuff? I've heard a lot of praise for it but what separates it from a wash? Can I accomplish more or less the same things with Badab Black?
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>>43933720
Blue looks better than the red. Maybe use a lighter colour for the highlight for helmet. Solid work on the blue man, keep it going!
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>>43933720
>eight model ever
>details on the eyes
Nigga you're better than me.
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>>43934028
Aw shit I've got one of these pricks sitting around waiting for me to get off my ass.
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>>43933720
>First time drybrush - I like it. It's less pain in the ass than layering (although I did layer the helmet).
Imo drybrushing is something you should reserve for strongly textured surfaces, such as fur for example or to paint stuff you want to look rough and textured, like varying shades of brown and orange for rust for example.
It can look alright if you blend it back in with a wash or ink to tint it, otherwise is just looks chalky. Especially on stuff like marines that have lots of flat smooth surfaces it doesn't look good imo.

Keep painting with layering, it will also improve your brush control and make you better painter in general due to the practice you get from that.
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INCOMING WIP
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>>43935923
Nice work, anon.
I love sentinels. Aside from commissars they're my favorite minis of the entire IG range.
Two thumbs up from me.
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>>43935923
sometimes I wish 40k had more walkers
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Inc wip
I tried to make glowing ruins but I suck, so I think I'll put some blood God on it.
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>>43936900
Almost every faction has at least one. I say it's pretty good.
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>>43937092
>Space marine - Dreadnaughts
>CSM - Hellbrute, defiler
>Daemons - Soul Grinder
>Eldar - War Walkers
>Necron - Triarch Stalker
I cant think of anything else really
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>>43937155
Forgeworld makes it easier. Contemptors, Deredeos, Decimators, and so on.
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>>43937155
orks
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>>43937155
DE and nids are the only armies without walkers.
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>>43937398

DE have talos and chronos engines. Yeah they are technically not walkers but that's pretty much like how Tau are not walkers. Nids pretty much all walk lel
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>>43937612
>Nids pretty much all walk lel
>mfw
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More done than WIP
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>>43938923
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>>43938945
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>watching conversion vid
>at this point the model is assembled
>guy spray paints the entire model
>primers, base coats, layers, everything
>"Model's done, I think it looks great"
>mfw no shadowed parts
>no fine details
>no highlights
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>>43939058
Is that good or bad? if it looks good what is the problem?
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Hey, I just want to get some minis painted up for use in games.

They're mostly some metal alloy and like two resins (these are for RPG miniatures).

I remember really liking Citadel paints when I was a kid, but that's because I didn't have to pay for them.

What are some good paints for someone who just needs the job done on a budget?

Same goes for brushes, as I need new ones
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>>43939520
You get what you pay for. Citadel and Vallejo are pricy but good. Americana is super cheap and shitty.
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>>43939580
>You get what you pay for
but this isn't true for the minis themselves, you're being scammed
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>>43939599
>You get what you pay for
applies to nothing with citadel on it
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>>43939520
Quality with budget in mind usually would tell you to buy army painter brushes and Vallejo paint
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>>43939753
Vallejo paint, sure.

For brushes go to Michaels and register for their weekly email spam. Every week you'll get a coupon for anywhere 40-60% off one item in store. Redeem coupon for cheap, decent quality brushes. Cheaper than hobby stores, good quality. I don't really suggest shopping from Michaels without a coupon because they're kinda pricey otherwise.
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>>43939753
What I'm saying is that I'm not really concerned about "quality", however you measure that.

I am not submitting these into a competition, I am not trying to get them to look good under lighting, I am not going for a photorealistic look.

I just want paint that will stick well to primer or even to the material itself, dries well, is good to be painted over and has a wide selection of colours, and that doesnt cost 5 bucks a pot.
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>>43939832
You could get something like Liquitex Basics acrylic starter kit, but the pigment in regular paint like that isn't ground thin enough to look good after being thinned and painted on. I tried using my Liquitex Basics on a hormagaunt as a test and it's unacceptably bad to me.

If you don't care about the quality of your work, it might get the job done for you.
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>>43939386
The last 3 lines imply that it looks bad.
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Several threads back I post my WIP of the Survivor Pinup. I only needed a bit of touch ups and was nearly done. But I thought I'd share the results anyways. Here she is with some of the others.
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>>43940037
Can you show me what it looks like on the model?
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>>43932056
So you have 30k and 40k boxes now. Gonna be hard to set up something fluffy with this.

>>43930891
Prime them black and then paint with metalic of your choice. Or buy metalic primer - army painter sells silver one. Also check op links for tutorials. Watch warhammerTV on yt
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>>43940078
Diggin the fattie with the blue lantern
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>>43940130
It's boxed up somewhere (I'm in the middle of a move) so I can't take more pictures but here's a WIP of it I took ages ago. The body, i.e. not-carapace or claws is the liquitex mix.

I think the formula I used was
1 part Liquitex paint mixture to get the colour,
1 part Vallejo Thinner Medium,
1 drop of Vallejo Matt Medium,
and a drop of 1 part of Liquitex Flow-Aid mixed with 20 parts water.
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>>43940357
How are these unacceptably bad? They look totally fine.
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>>43940266
>So you have 30k and 40k boxes now. Gonna be hard to set up something fluffy with this.

What's so unfluffy about Mk IV armour in the 41st millennium?
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>>43940421
>Tell me your secrets Relic
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Why is /wip/ obsessed with drybrushing?
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>>43940078
pretty nice

You planning on doing the various messengers?
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>>43940266
Mk IV is absolutely still extant in the 41st millennium. For gods sake, the best source of plastic mk iv bits pre-BaC was the plain tactical box!

>>43932056
So you're got 30 mk iv marines, 5 cataphractii terminators, a terminator and apower armored HQ, a venerable dreadnought, a razorback/rhino, a drop pod, 20 mixed mark marines, 5 assault marines, 5 scouts, and a command squad + commander? Let's break it down by section.
>You have your choice of any generic HQ in the book, you have a ton of bits to make 1 or more
>You can build any elite infantry squad in the codex, including command squads, sternguard, vanguard, counts-as legion of the damned, &c
>You have access to a contemptor dreadnought, and plenty of bits if you want to convert him to a different loadout/pose
>You have the Ven Dread kit, which could also be a normal dread or counts as ironclad
>You have a squad of terminators with a wide variety of loadouts
>Can make as many tactical squads as you desire, with any loadout
>Can field some scout snipers
>Have 1 each drop pod and rhino
>can make assault marines
It's hard to give you list advice because that's an incredible amount of flexibility for a starting list. I know that as far as expanding, i'd pick up more pods or rhinos, depending on your preference, and a land raider or some centurions.
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>>43940491
When I started in 3e drybrushing was what everyone suggested. I took a long break and now everyone seems to be crazy for coco puffs, and edge highlighting.
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>>43940491
Because it's in every official Games Workshop manual
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>>43932056
That's a fair chunk of change. I hope you sucked his or her dick.
>>
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>>43940298
She's may be my favorite of the bunch, but the worst in paintjob. I just couldnt get the skin right, so it went on thick in some areas. Also the bone blade kept snapping off, so it looks super rough...luckily I bought another pinup set during the black friday sale.
>>
>>43940491
Obsessed how? It's a super useful technique for certain things like fur, rocks and sand.
>>
Tather new to miniatures so bear with me here, but is there a reason most people seem to prime in black? Every tutorial or wip I come across seems to have the model primed in black even if its going to eventually be painted a lighter color. Wouldn't a white primer be more efficient and save on having to layer several times over to get a vibrant color?
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>>43940962
It comes down to preference or stupidity.
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>>43940962
The biggest reason (aside from wanting a darker model) is that it's a lot less work most of the time. Unless you're painting white or yellow, black is easier. Recesses that you miss with a brush are going to be black and mostly invisible, while white primer will make any spots you don't hit stick out. Black primer is also much easier to inspect. It doesn't have a very strong gradient, so it will be obviously either primed or unprimed. If you prime white without adequate lighting, it can be difficult to tell how good your coverage is.

Basically, there's pros and cons to both. Pick whatever you like best and don't listen to people telling you what to do if you're satisfied with how your models are coming out. The only thing I will say to the contrary is that you should really, really never prime a white or yellow model with black. You will go mad (I play Templars, Fists, and Averland. Trust me on that).
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>>43940651
where did you buy it?
she's cute :3
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>>43941240
Kingdom Death
>>
>Tfw you look across the battlefield and see the D.H.H

BATTER UP, FUCK BOYS
>>
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The desert sand effect did not work as well as it normally does. Other than that, how did I do? Anything I should fix?
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>>43940559
Actually, I've already painted the Messenger of Courage. I have the First Story to paint and bought the rest from the KD Store. But I currently Zachary, Lucy, and Allison are on the painting block.
>>
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>>43941788
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>>43941788
Figures you'd paint the best one first.
>>
I don't have the space marine tac squad, but I've seen the sprues. I'm wondering if it would be possible to build/convert a Johnny space marine with the pieces provided.
There's the hand that could be modded to hold like a cartridge, the beakie Helmand armor pieces.

With patience skill and green stuff it'd be kind of possible, right?
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>>43941810
Oh for sure! I use her as my survivor mini. But I really look forward to painting Guts
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>>43941812
The modern tac squad comes with a reloading hand, actually.

You could probably bits-order the parts for a modern conversion fairly easily, though spending money on making memes a reality is a dark path to take.
>>
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>>43941505
>Do you know what time it is?
>rattle rattle rattle
>>
>>43941812
>>43941904
>on making memes a reality is a dark path to take.
The Dark Side of the Hobby is a pathway to many abilities some consider to be __fun___.
>>
How do you clean an airbrush hopper easily?

My airbrush has a underslung detachable hopper, and I find i have to take it off then go wash it in the sink before switching colors. Its just a hassle to do it every time.
>>
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>>43942230
>>
>>43942230
What the fuck.
>>
Anyone got a quick 'n easy guide to painting orc/ork skin? I'm looking to get into age of sigmar and want to study up before I buy/get anything
Bonus points for savage orcs since I've heard they're good
>>
>>43933737
I will try and ask around in My gaming group if anyone have some skitarii bitz to give me
>>
>>43942265
You could try basing the skin a tan leathercolor or yellow and washing it down with green. Gives you some nice tonal variation and basically just requires a solid basecoat and some washes.
Looks really good if you can control the washes somewhat.

If you google you should find a few wip threads or tutorials for that too.
The easiest way to paint skin I can think of.
>>
>>43942230
I might just have lost 1d8 points of SAN.
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>>43942265

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFpqxHFMZXs
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>>43942230
>>
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>>43942265
The proper way is >>43942562 (although I prefer different shades of green like Loren Forest and Moot Green)

The quick and dirty way is to prime white/yellow and wash green, like in pic related or here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5mcpGhUJzM
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Pair of marines I'm working on from BaC. Half going to be Death Guard, half Alpha Legion. Trying to nail the schemes right now. First time doing a primarily white army too so right is very much WIP.
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Some minis for an upcoming game called Wild in the Streets.
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>>43942921
And some Vikings for Saga.
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>>43939058
Some tutorial vids are pretty meh. more vids need to have a decent finished project and a coherent guide. This is a pretty good example.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FayBHOhucf0
>>
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couple more bits to do and then onto some termies and trying to do lightning bolts.........
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>>43942826
saw how ass the DG marine looked on cam, so i touched him up and cleaned the white. think it looks a bit better at least
>>
>>43942826

Alpha needs to be much more turquoise/green since it looks like an ultra right now
>>
Really wish these special weapons from FW already had hands on them.

But hey, looking forward to my caliver unit.
>>
>>43943115

Man, what are you doing. You had such sweet blends but those highlights are ruining it. Unless you're going to clean them all up, which begs the question why you did the metals already.
>>
>>43943370
It does indeed. One criticism for the paint scheme I would give you is that imo you should never paint a white scheme with straight white.
Use an off white, like in your case since you seem to be going for something warmer maybe a cream/bone color and use pure white only to set a few sharp accents.
That way you can actually go both directions with shading and highlighting. If you start with white all you can do is shade. Also gives your paintjob more depth.

Aside from that I'd say it's coming along nicely.
>>
>>43943115
I'm kinda with this anon >>43943409
The highlights flatten the blue if that makes sense. They're too broad and mono color.
Imo, you should sharpen them with a brighter shade of blue in accord to the blends on the armor, to bring back the contrast you had in your blues before.
>>
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>>43943404
Think a drybrush of pic related with a turquoise wash would do the trick? I know that standard for alpha is many blue/green washes over silver, but i think it looks a bit too shiny for the rank and file.
>>43943421
thanks for the input. Funny enough I did use an off white for the scheme. A few layers of palid wych flesh over rakarth flesh, but for the next test I'll maybe use a bone colour with white highlights. Granted it could also be my camera is busted so my phone is my current alternative, so it looks odd despite my setup being brighter than the sun
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>>43943421
>>43943436
So to compare, left marine has highlights and right does not, the one on the rights arms and legs look really bland to me and nothing stands out, made even worse from a table top distance. I defiantly missed the opportunity to airbrush more highlights on the raised armor areas on the HQ but him being such a busy model doesn't help either. By the time I did the cloak helm and metals you could hardly see any blend left at all. No matter I have another Calth box to do and this was my first go at airbushing+normal painting. Thanks for the comments, I have Sevatar and Conrad coming in the post so will defiantly do a better job on their blending etc etc.
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>>43943580

Left's is a lot more subtle than middle though. Should be easy to fix with some medium mixed with the base color.
>>
>>43943565

It could. Mix with medium for extra transparency, they try to keep the blue showing on top for a nice transition.
>>
>>43943580
are you going to add lightning eventually?

batmarines without lightning just ain't right
>>
>>43943370
>>43943115
>>43943580

>mfw all these Calth minis
>my boxes are still en route
>giant assignment just came in at work
>won't be able to do anything with them until february
>>
>>43941788
Would you mind sharing how you painted the skin? Every time I paint female skin, it always end up looking way too orange or yellow.
>>
>>43941633
Looks great, because it did not work on the full base (the crackling), it looks more realistic
>>
>>43943614
yeah but need to practice on it more atm before I am happy to put it on my actual models. Shits fiddely as heck and if I stuff it up on the blended areas I'm boned.
>>
>>43943616
>literally no spare time for 2 months
Do you live in China?
>>
>>43942265
Did you not see the link in the OP?
Or:
Waaargh flesh basecoat
Wash biel-tan green
Clean up waaargh flesh except in the deepest recesses.
Layer warboss green on the protruding parts, leaving some waaargh to show.
Layer skarsnik green on the extremities of the warboss layer, leaving some warboss to show.
For savage orcs, use moot green instead of skarsnik in the previous step
If you want to add another layer of highlights, use something like screaming skull or pallid wych flesh, but sparingly and only on the very extremities of the previous layer. If you used skarsnik green moot green might be useful at this step, but I haven't tried that myself.

If you don't use citadel colors, check the color conversion chart at dakkadakka to find the appropriate substitutes in the vallejo or army painter ranges.

That's how I do it anyways. Hope it helps
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Started to build a chaosified nemesis strike force to go with my chaosified IK and astra mil.

Sorry for the blurryness. Babycarries will get some daemon prince and blood thirster torsoes and heads greenstuffed on, also some modified armorplates (hence the lack of them) and other greensuff work. The fluff will be that they are a small coven of sorcerers that managed to defeat a group of GK's with the aid of my CSM warband. The sorcerer lord will of course be a librarian.
>>
>>43943734

Nope, running a startup software company with a friend and he just landed us a fucking corporation with 330 resellers worldwide. It's just the two of us right now and I'm the one doing all the building and designing, so yeah this is going to end well for sure.
>>
>>43943684
fair enough
>>
>>43943565
This is what I've come up with for my Alpha Legion. I feel like it could be a little bluer, but I've got the shine to it. Still just in the basecoating stage, for the record.
>>
>>43943888

It almost looks like caliban green? It should be more of a turquoise or you can mix some matte medium with a brighter green/blue mix and make some transitions top/down from there.
>>
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>>43942265
Here's the way I learned from the anon with glorious feral cartoon-painted orks.
As shown on pic from left to right:
Basecoat Waaagh Flesh
Wash Biel-tan Green
Highlight Warboss Green
Highlight Moot Green

The anon who made those lurks ocasionally, he'll probably tell you more about making it work.

And If you're really lazy?
Basecoat Yellow, Light grey or really light brown for accordingly tropical, voidborn or normal skin.
Wash Biel-tan Green until desired effect is achieved.
>>
>>43943952

Naw man, you can be even lazier without wasting a lot of wash

>prime or basecoat a yellow. Brighter yellow means brighter end result
>drybrush on warpstone glow
>drybrush on moot green
>wash biel tan green

This is how I do assembly line ork skin, it takes almost no time if you're doing like 10 models at a time for each skin step.
>>
>>43943937
Leadbelcher, Sotek, and Kabalite. 33/33/33 mix.
This is what happened when I added a little but more Sotek.
>>
>>43943565
Just fyi sotek green is very much a blue. You could probably highlight with it then highlight again with a proper green though.
>>
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I asked in the previous WIP and got no answer, so I'll try again because I really need it.
Does anyone have a size comparison between Rogue Trader orks [pic related] and the ones we have these days (is that 3rd edition?)?
>>
>>43943993
Bit more* Dammit.
>>
>>43943995
They're a lot smaller, though I can't seem to find any decent images online.

Use the 25mm base as your visual guide. Find an image of a newer ork at a similar angle to the one you posted and line the two up. You'll see the difference.
>>
>>43943974
Can we have a look at your results?

>>43943952
Do you put a second coat of Waaagh flesh after the wash, before the highlights?
>>
>>43944101
Whelp, that's actually pretty small.
In comparison they look more like grots than real orks.
It's just whenever I see Johnny I feel nostalgia towards old editions and I'd love to include them in my ork mob.
You just saved me a few bucks and a lot of disappointment anon.
>>
>>43943995
>>43944284
Next to an old Goff boy.
The gretchin is actually a WHFB goblin from the old chariot kit Who also used to moonlight as black gobbo.
>>
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>mfw a new 90 min video of the Dunc painting some AoS beasty just appeared

Well that's gonna speed along the next 2 hours of being bored at work, sitting in my office.
>>
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WIP of my centurion
>>
>>43944484
Looks fine, except for that yellow on his chest. Damn that went on thick.
>>
>>43943952
>>43944199
See >>43943756
>>
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>Duncan's waifu has taken his place for a vid

https://youtu.be/diSho6SVa94
>>
>>43944735
That was uncanny as fuck
>>
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>>43944735
Duncano was busy making the Archaon video,
which is amazing btw.
>>
>>43944859
What it the liquid you sue to make the plasticard (I guess it's plasticard?) bendy?

Could be useful to make some bandages.
>>
>>43944896
Not mine but I think it was just regular printing paper with a water/pva glue mix.
>>
>>43944859
>90 minutes of Dunc

I cant handle all this comfy
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What do you guys think of those colours? Do they look good on the Skitarii or nope?
>>
>>43945004

I'd leave the red and blue off and make it a french flag theme
>>
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>>43942265
I'm doing something like mentioned
>>43943952
I basecoat with yellow, and gib 2 biel-tan washes, then single highlight of any green i grab form shelf mixed with light yellow tone. Sometimes i add green glaze at the to blend highlights and shades to make them look diffrent, also diffrent tones of basecoats (regular yellow, light yellow, light orange) gives diffrent tone after washing.
>>
>>43944372
sweet hesus, i almost forgot about new vid. And it's this long, very nice after short one yesterday.
>>
>>43944372
>Having 2 hours of nothing to do
>Using the computer at work for anythibg else than work

What's your job anon?
>>
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>>43944735
>mfw it was 1st time I was skipping any GW vid
>mfw I was listening to her but I heard it with Duncan voice in my head
>mfw I hope she won't be doing much of those vids
>>
>>43945391
I'm a lawyer specialized in M&A. Had a meeting earlier and am currently waiting on my next appointment. Lots of downtime.
>>
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Since everyone's doing 30k with the new BaC set, I figured I'd get into it as well, going for a really dark, dirty-looking Iron Warriors force. Have a shitty potato-phone shot of my Warsmith.
>>
>>43940266
Krylon Metallic Silver Paint+Primer spray paint is what I use for my Thousand Sons.
>>
>>43945613
Looks good anon. How much of a pain was it to get that IW helmet in there?
>>
>>43945600
Do you work in the City? Law student so you know, discovering, networking and all that. [/spoiler!]
>>
>>43945613
Looks really dope. Really, the photo is a disadvantage for the model here. I dig that helmet.
>>
>>43934222
That red has been layered on, not drybrushed. Note the edge highlighting aswell.

Also, what this anon said >>43934297
>>
>>43945687
>>43945702

Thanks. I'm away from home for a few days, but I'll take a better shot when I get back. And yes, it was a pain to get the helmet in; the collar on the armor has a bevelled edge on the inside, so you have to shave off the bottom of the skull-face to make it fit. I ended up sticking it to a paperclip with blu-tack and wiggling it around to get it in properly, but it worked well enough.
>>
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This was a mini I was practicing before the real thing. But what can I do to make my imperial fist look less like shit? I feel like they fall apart when I try to apply the washes. and the eyes...always the eyes....
>>
>>43946153
Look up StrikingScorpion tutorial on IF.
>>
>>43935580

fuck this guy, I hate layering. Drybrush is quick and easy and looks great.

I personally drybrush all my metal with necron compound and drybrush my yellow with hexos palesun.
>>
>>43942654
I tried this and its absolute shit. Fuck that primer from Army Painter. The paint didnt stick on the primer and the primer was way too thick.

Just base with Waagh flesh -> wash Biel-tan Green -> layer Warboss Green -> edge highlight with Skarsnik Green/ Moot Green (I use Moot green)
>>
>>43945690
Sorry mate, not from England.
>>
how do you all keep your paints from drying on the palette?
I'm about to paint 7 Lychguard and I don't want all my paints drying
>>
>>43946486
Wet palette.
>>
>>43946486
wet palette

>shallow, sealable plastic container
>soaked kitchen wipe folded to fit
>baking parchment paper on top

And you are good to go. Last time I did any painting was 4 days ago and if I take a look at my palette right now, the paint is still wet.
>>
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>>43943952

My ork with same paints, but more shittier
>>
>>43946679
Does it specifically have to be parchment paper? I've tried with baking paper and it didn't seem to work, water wasn't making it through the paper at all
>>
>>43931124
Really? No one? :(
>>
Anyone know of a cheap or interesting substitute for imperial sentinels? Doesn't even have to be a chicken walker strictly, but I can't seem to find anything cool for cheaper.
>>
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Started my centrepiece building for my mordheim terrain.
>>
>>43947110
I seem to recall VMC Carmine Red being a tad on the cold side, but let me see if I can find the pot. :)
>>
As an addition for my iron warriors I'm considering an renegade guard army. Do you guys have some good conversion idea's?

For my conscripts I've these bits in mind:
http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/product/penal-guard-torsos
http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/product/chem-mask-heads-x10
>>
>>43947206
That would be great, thank you.
Looking at Vallejo's chart it seems like it should be... redder? But that chart has lied to me too many times
>>
>>43947107
Look up Tabtletopminions, he explains it pretty well.
>>
>>43947147
Is that butter?
>>
>>43947484
Close, it's foAm
>>
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>>43943636
I used vallejo MC Mahogany Brown, Beige Red, Basic Skintone, Light Flesh, and Carmine Red. Game Color Sepia Ink.

Normally with my Infinity minis, I would go a bit darker, but I decided to go much lighter with my KD. So basecoat is Beige Red with just a tiny hint of Mahogany Brown. Mahogany Brown gives a nice reddish tone to the skin. Then I build up the highlights with mix of Beige Red/ Basic Skintone. The most extreme highlights are done with Light Flesh.

Then VERY VERY watered down glaze of Carmine Red to the lips, and just under the cheek bones. This should be SO water down it would basically be water, and almost unnoticable. This step is optional I guess especially since the Mahogany Brown/Beige Red already gives it a reddish tone.

Finally a little bit of watered down sepia ink to define the lips

The key is to make sure the layers are soft and well blended especially for female minis. Also try out other colors. For example pic related was with Flat Earth, Cork Brown, and Basic Skintone. How this helps.
>>
>>43947407
>mfw I dig out my VMC paints and find out that I don't have Carmine Red in my collection...
My apologies, I own VMC Flat Red, Red and Black Red, but not Carmine Red.
>>
>>43948095
No worries; how's Flat Red also if you don't mind?
>>
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Converting the Left hand weapons on the contemptor was actually really easy. Pose fits a bit better for a mortis, but magnetization never hurt. Will probably try to change to pose of the melee-naut.
>>
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>>43948549
As you can see, Flat Red is a good deal brighter and a little warmer than Mephiston Red.
Coverage is pretty nice for a red too.

Unfortunately I don't have Evil Sunz Scarlet to compare it to.
>>
>>43939058
Share the vid with the class

>>43944484
Dat eye lense though. Teach me your ways sensei
>>
>>43946621
>>43946679
Wet palette senseis, tell me.
How did I fuck this up?
Should the paper go up the edge to prevent paint from spilling? Did I put too much water. Goddamnit.
>>
>>43944735

What the shit.
>>
>>43949386
love how its creeping across the palette, seeking out other colours to devour
>>
>>43949386
Looks too wet. You've got baking parchment on the top too right?
>>
>>43949386

The fuck? Did you skip the wax paper? I prefer to use a higher container with sponges that suck up the moisture to the wax paper, to keep it from floating like your shit seems to be doing.
>>
>>43949506
>>43949546
There's wax paper, so too wet it is. I actually tilted it at first to remove excess water, so I'm a bit surprised. Next one I'll just drop a bit of water until the surface is just wet?
>>
>>43949604

Nigga, sponges are impossible to fuck up. Use sponges
>>
So Biostrip 20 review.

Pretty good, makes super glue kinda runny and weak so it's best used on plastic glued or single piece metal models. Strips stuff really well too, best to use a toothbrush and a toothpick.

In other news, had to throw out a Rhino, 50 marines (CSM and LSM) because it was not worth saving them, too much glue to remove and plastic erosion. Stormraven also arrived, covered in white tack and with GK symbols stuck on it. Fun.
>>
>>43949604
Nah I do it the same way. Fill it till it's swimming and then just drain the excess.

Maybe your parchment paper is fucked.
>>
So I'm trying out a new primer brand (Krylon) and got the ultra flat black since I kept seeing recommendations for it but after spraying some figures with it they have a sort of fuzzy matte finish to them. Anyone else use this brand and encounter the same thing or am I doing something wrong?
>>
>>43949792

Throw them out? Are you crazy? You can make half buried victims, ruined vehicles, nurgle zombies and all kinds of shit out of things that still resemble models.

Even if you shave off most of the details, you can use them as bases for greenstuffing things over.
>>
>>43949830
is it cold or warm where you are? whats the humidity?
>>
>>43949936
It's around 80F with 82% humidity.
>>
>>43949890
Trust me Anon, there was no saving them. The CSM's were shattered to shit after my model case was thrown at me meaning we had very few bits left, we could have salvaged a few marines and shit sure, but it was a DV kit, I'm not gonna cry over that.

LSM on the other hand have been soaked in so much glue that it takes 3 days of work to clean a single okay marine, not matter what technique I went at them at with, and whatever shit he used melted holes and the top layer off. in places where it was exposed.
>>
>>43949967
>82% humidity
don't prime in 82% humidity
>>
What would be a fun to paint army to stand next to my 40k orks?
>crons
>SM (was thinking about lamenters or black templars)
>nurgle daemons form AoS
>CSM (either nurgle or slaanesh themed)
>>
>>43950012
story time?
>>
>>43950012

Ah, in that case there's not much you can do. Maybe make volcano victims out of them or some shit but yeah.
>>
>>43950077

BT are a very fluffy opponent for the orks, but so are many other chapters. Personally I like hawk lords a lot because of the purple but check out the lexicanum with all the chapter color schemes for more ideas before you decide anything.
>>
>>43950083
About the model case incident? Long story short basically my step-father threw the case at me since I had it ordered (It came with a pristine and well assembled Chaos DV kit) and I didn't hear the doorbell (I doubt it rang because it is loud as sin and I heard nothing) so he had to sign for it... Yes this is grounds on which he deems it acceptable to throw model cases at people's heads. Thankfully I was home when my BA army arrived and they have been put away nice and safe.

>>43950101
Yeah, we were trying to make a case for it like
"Yeah you could make some... things... out of it?"
"Like?"
"...I got nothing."

But it was really not worth the work. Time better spent on priming and painting other models.
>>
>>43950019
What's the humidity doing that's causing that effect though?
>>
>>43950235
I hope u hooked that cunt in the gabber m8
>>
>>43950373
moisture in the air fucks with how shit dries, aerosol paint especially

If your house is less humid than what it is outdoors you can usually spray small groups and quickly bring them in to dry without issue, but it's better to just not prime in humid weather.
>>
Still trying to make the ro-butts look bareable. Any ideas how to make the arms look better? They just look so wimpy.
>>
>>43945613
How did you get that metal colour? I was planning on doing a black wash over leadbelcher but if your method isn't too tricky I might give it a try
>>
>>43950489

Ablative shielding?
>>
>>43950619
Wanted to do a 'servo skull connected to a bunch of wires' kinda deal. But it looked a bit silly without the backplate and i thought it would add a bit of robustness to the model. Also it would probably be there to cover the connections to the skull, maybe, kinda, sorta.
>>
>>43950489
Give them a pose.
Also I find arms looking bit weird because shoulder pads look disproportionately small when compared to fists.
Dreadnoughts of any kind don't seem to suffer from it, they have massive weapons, but reasonably big shoulders.
Kastelan has shoulderpads the size of, dunno, terminator with powerfists fit for a dreadnought.
>>
>>43941807
At first I thought this was a rule 63 Link but nice paint.
>>
>>43943580
definitely
>>
>>43943805
cool cool idea anon
>>
>>43950847
So the best way to fix it wouldg be to enlargen the shoulderpads. Seems like an good idea. Anything else?
>>
>>43950489
shoulderpads
>>
>>43950994

Campaign honor banners
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>>43951448
Sounds neat, i'll keep that in mind.
>>
>>43950994
If you give it guns, some sort of integrated targeting apparatus might improve the look. Or make it worse. Dunno, guns look... weird.
Powerfist is trickier, but I think they don't have big problems. Maybe making a fist a fist instead an open hand or reshaping the arm? Or sharpening the fingertips to mimic Datasmith?
>>
>>43951605
Ah, since posted that i've actually decided to go with thr kind of 'integrated bolter into powefist' type of look. But thanks for the advice
>>
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>>43948615
Other Dread after some sawing and slicing. Looks a lot better after only a leg change and slight turn to the torso. All weapons for both magnetized now
>>
I can't shake the feeling that the plastic Cataphractii look kind of stiff and boxy.

Are they much different than the FW ones? Because I feel like the FW ones might have better proportions but it's probably just an optical illusion and they're nearly fucking identical and I'd just be wasting money getting resin.
>>
>>43952022
sure, let's roll
>>
>>43952022

Don't understand the point of this shit except to waste post limit.

inb4 "no fun allowed". How is it fun? You never do anything with it even if you roll, and nobody ever responds, they just quote the image/roll.
>>
>>43952016
>I can't shake the feeling that the plastic Cataphractii look kind of stiff and boxy.
the resin cataphractii also look stiff and boxy
>>
>>43937084
put some green shade
>>
I'm looking for a model that I can use for my pink horrors that aren't GW Pink Horrors.

I'm not a fan of the way GW Pink horrors look and can't mind something I like that is also the right size.

Any suggestions out there?
>>
>>43952204

The plastic ones are EVEN BOXIER

It's mostly the shoulders
>>
>>43952234
how about Blue Horrors?
>>
>>43952234
You're literally asking for bread that doesnt look like bread.
Good fucking luck.
>>
>>43946430
Fucking up with Army Painter sprays is 90% user error. I've used 10+ cans, including black, white, red and purple, and a friend has used multiple cans of yellow and they've all worked great.
>>
>>43949604
The wax paper itself is not supposed to have drops/pools of water on top of it, it's just supposed to be moist from the wet paper towel underneath.
>>
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First time I've painted fortifications. White needs touching up obviously and this'll be the only time I paint something like this without an airbrush. Thoughts on the the white and grey?
>>
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why does she YELL random WORDS surprisingLY and there is NO logical FLOW to her PATTERN of speech
>>
>>43952435

Yeah I've seen two people in the past who complained about AP only to have it be their own fucking fault. A lot more AP complaints recently but I guarantee it's due to ignorant users.

But it's not their fault since AP cans are like shotguns. The high humidity tolerance and shrinking cure stages that make AP especially great can only help so much if the users are drowning models in them while spraying next to a tropical beach in a snowstorm.
>>
>>43952525

Looks good to me. Really good. The clean and stark style works better on Tau stuff. You can go for highlights if you want but it doesn't need it.
>>
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>>43952525
And the Gunrig so far.
>>
>>43952540

She learned how to speak English from American comic books.
>>
>>43952540
>hell yeah new advent calendar
>wait this isn't Duncan
>I guess I'll give her a shot, don't want to seem sexist
>"We're gonna be starting with a basecoat of ECKS-vee 88"
>god dammit
>>
>>43952234
>>43952255
>>43952337
All right let me rephrase. I'm looking for models that look like eldritch abominations that are 24mm-30mm tall.
>>
>>43949830
>me again
Just came back home after a few hours and the figures are dry but a bit of the primer is definitely rubbing off slightly on my fingers when holding it. Are those models fucked or will painting over them fix the fuzzy issue? Never had this happen to me before so I'm unfamiliar with what to do.
>>
>>43952908
fuzzy and chalky usually happen when you are either too far or it is too cold, the paint dries midair and sticks onto the model in clumps. This also happens if you are moving the can around too fast if those other two aren't a problem but since you've primed before it's a last ditch possibility. The ultra flat may be more sensitive to these problems due to it's nature though.
>>
>>43952022
roll
>>
>>43953370
So should I just paint the figures anyway or should I try to brush the primer off?
>>
>>43952590
>She learned how to speak English from American comic books.

Or she was made by Hasbro.
>>
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>>43953626
>So should I just paint the figures anyway or should I try to brush the primer off?

Brush it or strip it, m8. Painting over it will not solve the problem.
>>
>>43950907
Actually she is! All of the Messenger are homage to other games/shows
>>
>>43953818
that's really funny
>>
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Building my own obliterators for my CSM army because I don't really like the models and I mostly just wanna build a daemon army, but with guns.

Just started today, so here's a couple of WIP ones. One is gonna will be duel wielding plasma guns and the other will be toting an autocannon with an underslung mortar, looking like he's pulling out a new grenade for his mortar.

Granted I can figure out where the fuck I left my mortar bits.
>>
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>>43954264
Plasma guns.
>>
>>43954264

If I had an opportunity to make some kind of Obliterator I'd make like plasma cannon arms with shoulder lascannons and then wings made out of plasma guns.
>>
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I think I should just give up on painting and settle for a table top standard of three colors. I suck...

I thin my paints, use 2-3 layers.

Not sure what I expected but compared to other armies I have seen now I just feel like mine is a joke.
>>
>>43954535

The first of my Landspeeders. The other three are on there way but already assembled = /.

Next up for painting is my darkshroud that was also preassembled.
>>
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>>43954535
>>43954581

This is you, right
>>
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>>43954603

Well the first two images were mine, then it was someone elses joke. I wanted them to look like Soul Drinkers but it just kinda of turned out more like The Vikings I guess.
>>
>>43954535

The problem is you chose the wrong colors and have no color theory.

You want an easy good looking army? Fix your color scheme and buy a purple primer. That will do 90% of your work. The other 10% will be painting in the lines and actually putting in effort like highlighting.

There's a reason every Blood Angel, Salamander, Ultramarine, Red Scorpions, Carcharodons, Minotaurs etc army looks good. Their color scheme is IMPOSSIBLE to fuck up.
>>
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Working on the second EC terminator (even though the first isn't done yet). Still a long way to go, but it's starting to look like something now, at least. The Sonic Blaster will have to count as a linked bolter, I'm afraid (5th ed come back!).
>>
>>43954783

The arms are too low.
>>
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>>43954651

What do you mean no color theory? I thought purple, golden yellow and white were a pretty established scheme.

I definetly should have looked into a purple primer though, I went with grey at the time because I thought I was going to do a metalic purple but that didn't work out at all.

Also was my first time using green stuff on this Interrogator Chaplin, turned out pretty bad.
>>
>>43952792
Woodelf dryads could work.

Eldritch abominations is still a pretty wide category.

I'll do you a solid and refer you to the board game The Others: 7 sins. They're a kickstarter that got funded, but are taking late pledges if you're interested. All their 7-sin themed monsters have different design directions, and surely one of them could be what you're looking for.
http://www.cmon.com/pledge/store/products/the-others-late-pledge/
>>
>>43954826
>purple and yellow
>established scheme
>color theory

Hahaha, no. Not even close. Maybe if you had used actual gold like I told you a few months ago.
>>
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>>43954581

Other angle, Idk why I didnt take a picture of the back.
>>
>>43954826

Purple and yellow are only linked on bad and simplistic color theory circles. Find a better one and you'll notice it's actually midnight blue and yellow that go together well. Purple goes better with green.

Also some color combos that work in color theory still look bad. I think you just have a bit too much yellow and not enough shading and highlighting.
>>
>>43954264
>>43954284
Honestly? They just look like nids with human guns. You're going to have to do much more work if you want them to not look like looted nids.
>>
>>43954814
True. Only blu-tacked on now, though.
>>
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>>43954912
>>purple and yellow
>>established scheme

Pic related.

I know soul drinkers use gold and bone with their purple but I used yellow for the cloaks and robes and thought that much gold would be way too much.

>>43954961

Yeah I think I am far to novice to be working with yellow. I have a second brighter yellow I haven't even opened yet because I think I would just end up making it look worse.

My apothecary which has white armor turned out really bad.
>>
>>43955077
I have been thinking about smoothening up their limbs and doing something about the chest to make them seem more in line with daemon models, just not entirely sure how at the moment.
>>
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Done. R8 m8s
>>
>>43955507
You'd be better off converting one of several monstrous humanoids from Fantasy/AoS. Making things un-niddy enough for anything that isn't slaaneshi is a ton more work than it's typically worth.

Beastmen's Minotaurs might be a good option, since khorne daemons share many qualities with them.

Vampire Counts' Crypt Horrors are also big dudes who wouldn't need a bunch of work to make look like cyborgs.

(Both of these are 40mm base models, the same as Terminators/Oblits.)
>>
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>>
>>43956044
>>43956106
pretty good, what type of daemon is he though?
The crab claw and purple make me think slaanesh, but he doesn't look quite gay enough
>>
>>43956371
Thanks, He's slaneesh, he's got the icon on his loincloth and shoulder piece, look up Azazel, that's his model name. Gonna use his as a keeper of secret though.
>>
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>>43955258
Note that the only example you have of that color scheme that isn't a two-dimensional logo is a comic book character.

Looking at >>43954826, you absolutely have to get in there with a wash and give it some visual variety through shading. You've got bright yellow next to bright white, with thick layers (or even just straight color with no dark undercoat, I can't tell) overpowering any possible sense of depth or apparent lighting.

And on that note, thin the FUCK out of your paints. You always want to build up yellow (and white, for that matter) with light layers over a darker starting color, in this case red-brown or at least brown-yellow. Otherwise you get inconsistent layers that look splotchy and shit.

"I give up, I suck" is just a refusal to put the effort into getting better at something. Your Laker Lords are wonky, but give them a salvage job with some dark washes and see if they don't look a bit better even if it's a marginal difference.
>>
>>43955258
Logo color theory does not necessarily translate well to models. Good luck having red+yellow as primary colors without looking like McDonald's or red+green without looking like a Christmas tree.
>>
>>43956764

I thin my paints like the tutorial I watched and all colors usually get 2-3 coats.

I use grey primer, two or three coats of the purple then wash. Haven't finished the Interrogator Chap yet to wash him

Is it too late to switch to a white or purple primer with the rest of my models or would they look out of place compared to these.

I do not like gray primer.
>>
>>43956884
The first ~10 models you paint in a new color scheme should be used for experimenting. Sticking with something you don't like and doesn't work is just retarded.
>>
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The saga continues as I try to nail a good death guard scheme and battle with off-white colors.
>>
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So I swapped out the sword arm of the captain on the left with one more befitting oh his rank, and I started work on my other guy, how did I do on the face?
>>
>>43957282
The white seems a little thick but other than that, it looks really good, anon.
>>
>>43956780
>Good luck having red+yellow as primary colors without looking like McDonald's
I remember watching a battle where some guy had yellow and red tyranids, even worse was they were only half his army, the other half were regular white with brown carapaces
>>
>>43952022
I could almost imagine an anon getting 1 8 3 and having to figure out how to make a good paint scheme out of that. Horrific.
>>
>>43957632
There was a guy last thread who rolled 444
I hope he and his alpha legion have fun
>>
>>43956884
Worry about the consistency of your army-wide paint job after you have the color scheme and your own skills at a satisfactory level.
I don't know what your deeper goals as a hobbyist are, but I personally find good looking models takes priority over collection-wide consistency. Constantly experimenting with interesting paint jobs is more fun to me than grinding out a three-color army list.

And yeah, grey primer is nice for painting over but sucks as a basecoat. You really have to lay down some contrasting base layers over the grey before you start on the primary colors. I find bone/khaki to be a much more flexible primer than grey when aiming for a bright color scheme.
>>
>>43957390
thanks anon. thick white was a result of many fuckups while doing the gold, I keep forgetting that white needs a few layers to cover up a slip up.
>>
>>43954826
Color schemes are colors AND placement.
The colors you picked are fine. You fucked up with placement.

Usually you have a primary color that dominated the model, a secondary as highlight and a spot color for details.
You painted all color all over the model in equal measures which is why they don't read very well.
>>
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>>
Im thinking of starting World Eaters with the new BaC box, but the boltguns are a little to 'uniform' for me. Anybody have any ideas on how i should represent chain axes/bolters/bolt pistols.
>>
>>43958604
>That giant demon motherfucker
nothing short of amazing
>>
>>43958652
>Anybody have any ideas on how i should represent chain axes/bolters/bolt pistols.
Get some from FW or the khorne berserkers?
>>
>>43958652
What this anon said>>43958726
If you don't want to have to get new arms for the weapons, you always model em with the axes hooked up to their sides and wielding bolters as normal
>>
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>>43958498

I am confused as how to not paint like that though.

I can't have everything purple then there would be no difference between the robes, the armor and the bike.
>>
>>43958845
I think its really more of a problem of your colors contrasting one another in terms of brightness. I would think either a lighter purple, or less flashy shade of yellow would benefit the model, and washes are key, maybe highlight the yellow or purple, but not both.

Check the link for a guy who did a really nice purple/yellow scheme for his soul drinkers.
http://www.spikeybits.com/2012/06/beautiful-soul-drinkers-army-adepticon-2012.html

In fact. google soul drinkers marines for a good direction to go with your scheme. Dropping the flat yello for a gold a la Emperor's Children could do wonders as well. God Speed anon for adventuring outside the normal chapter colors.
>>
Started to think about my first time painting.
>What's primer?
>If I just do thick coats this will go a lot faster.
>The previous coat is dry by now.
>No it wasn't.
>Wow this paint is really thick. Oh well, what can you do?
>I will now add detail with a color barely different from the base color.
>I heard about dry brushing to make things look worn out.
>I think the brush is dry enough for dry brushing.
>It wasn't.
>Why would I buy a wash when I can just water down black paint?
>Check out my black covered, metallic, green on green marine that looks like it's melting.

I still suck at painting, but I have learned.
>>
>>43958967
do you have pics of the melted salamander?
>>
>>43959210
Sorry I repainted my first minis.
>>
>>43958845
>I can't have everything purple then there would be no difference between the robes, the armor and the bike.
Of course you can. That's where using values comes in. You shade and highlight right? So the light-dark contrasts define the shape of any given object.

Imo You should take all the yellow off the model except for the arm and the chapter symbol.
Repaint the details like trims on the bike in metal and and the knobs on the legs of the marine and the backpack purple. Then you have a colorscheme that reads properly at a distance.
Purple marine with yellow arm. You have to think in terms of blocking out colors. When you have the model in front of your nose you can tell what it is. If you see it form a few feet away it's gonna look like a Jackson Pollock painting.
Having your scheme broken up in color blocks helps enormously with that.

If you want stuff like robes to be a different color go for something a little more neutral like a tan or a grey or black. Stuff that doesn't have a lot of saturation or will clash with your other colors.
>>
Thinking of picking up the betrayal at calth box. Can i get some pics of heresy era Dark Angels for colors?
>>
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>>43959737
Black with red badge.
>>
>>43954264
not trying to shit on you, but that looks nothing like chaos at all - maaaaaybe slaanesh, depending on what you do next.
Still feels lazy tho'
>>
I want to start a 40k space marine army. Should I get the dark vengeance starter or the betrayal at calth?

Betrayal is 30 bucks more expensive and has no 40k rulebook, which I lack, however it comes with far more marines. What are /tg/s thoughts?
>>
>>43960721
You can easily buy the pocket rulebook on ebay for cheap, as well as templates. You can of course pirate the rule book and army books with ease. With BaC you also get a second board game you can play as well.

If you have no interest in Chaos, BaC is the better choice.
>>
>>43954535

Nigga you can't just rub BLACK WAS on white surfaces. You gotta shade that shit with a soft blue or something, like drakenhof nightshade with 1:1 water.
>>
>>43959737

Better hurry then, they're almost sold out everywhere and GW isn't going to do another run. Instead they'll be sold separately by FW at of course, a higher price.

>tfw snagging two boxes for 200 euro
>>
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Test for the lightning pattern for the Night lords, y/n?
>>
>>43960721
Go with the calth box and pirate the rulebook.
>>
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>>43960959
Y
>>
>>43960959

Not bad but needs more intermediary steps. The color differences are too big. The pattern is nice though.

Basically, start off with a dark blue slightly lighter than your basecoat
>5 layers of lighter blues building up to almost white in decreasing width
Then do the extremes in pure white. It currently looks like three step lightning.
>>
>>43960959
Looks nice and dramatic, keep it up!
>>
>>43960988
shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit nigga, here was me trying to get away with 3 step so I can paint them before 2020
>>
>>43961026

Now you understand why NL tend to self harm. Not because they grew up on a night world full of murderous assholes, but because they have to repaint their armor lightning after pretty much every battle.
>>
>>43961050
just to be a nerd, its actually generated from a little tech device on their armor, shit moves and jumps all over the place, sometimes they get creative and just loop vids of them skinning people on their armor as well.
>>
>>43960764
>>43960973

Ok, so how about this:

-Pirated rules
-BaC Box
-2 Tac marines boxes

Taking advantage of discounts and stuff I'd be paying 250 bucks. Yay or nay?

Also, how good of an army would that make?
I'm not looking forward to have competition tier stuff, but something that's fun to play, like an army that is all about big numbers of lowly infantry. Think some sort of 40k Vietnam chapter.

I'd be building them and buying the paints as I need them.

That should keep me busy for at least three months of slow, comfy building and painting.
>>
>>43961026

It looks good as is, IMO. Save the extra steps for HQs.
>>
>>43961026
>>43961315
Seconded, attention is kept on the big shiny snowflakes, save the intricate lighting for them first, maybe go back to the rank and file once everything's done as an afterthought
>>
>>43961307

Every couple of months the meta can change drastically so there's no point in worrying about it. Marines will always be the most variable faction, never top tier, never bad. Just paint what you like since it's going to take a lot of time. I don't know the current flavor of the month but I recall iron hands being pretty good, as are ultramarines. You can also just make your own 40k chapter and run them as whatever.
>>
>>43961315
>>43961354

In that case I'd add at least one intermediary bright blue before the white extremes, just to soften it up a bit more.
>>
>>43961307
Marines are the most flexible faction anyway so don't worry about the meta. I play chaos and ive only built my army by what i think looks cool, and i'm having alot of fun with it.
>>
>>43961307
You are already getting 30 tac marines from BaC, you don't really need many more unless you're making all 30 into sternguard or honorguard.
>>
>>43961520
I want the tacs to mix and match bits, however, making some honor/sterns wouldn't hurt, now that I think of it.
>>
>>43960959
Most definetly y
>>
>>43961050
>Now you understand why NL tend to self harm

Isn't that an Imperial Fist thing?
>>
>>43961307
Is it weird I now kind of want to run in Imperial Guard regiment under company commander Ho Chi Minh
>>
>>43961739

The pain glove is more of a pain inducing device, it doesn't actually harm the body unless you go full retard, turn it up to maximum and burn out your nerve system. This is discouraged.

I remember a story where a crimson fist librarian uses the glove to keep a daemon out that keeps trying to possess him, so it has its purposes I guess.
>>
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This takes a while but it is bearable with Netflix.
>>
>>43962147
They look great. The brass on the shoulders especially.

What did you use for your bases? Is that some kind of texture paint?
>>
>>43962175
GW Astrogranite texture paint, still haven't decided if I want to do snow on the bases or just go with some grass
>>
>>43962147
That's really good man

although I generally think these threads are high quality
>>
>>43962239
how about dead grass and snow?
>>
>>43962473

Nah man, you want a base that contrasts well with the blue yet without taking the focus off the mini. Snow is too bright for the lightning and since they're supposed to be creatures of nightmare, the boogie man marines, I think it'd be better if they were in a dark grassy field with flowers in it normally used for model train stuff. "You thought you were safe on your little agri world. You were wrong."
>>
>>43962147
What'd you use for the blue? Looks nice.
>>
How viable would it be for me to make an Iron Warriors army from the Betrayal at Calth stuff?
They're my favourite legion, but I much prefer the Mk.3 armour than Mk.4 when it comes to them.
>>
>>43962880

Eh, just buy the upgrade kits and swap out the shoulders and helmets or have some run around in MK2 and 3 and the rest in 4, depending how much of a veteran they are.
>>
>>43946386
show us a picture then so we can decide for ourselves
>>
>>43950563
>>43945613
I too wonder about that
>>
>>43962958

Looks like FW's good ol'
>black primer
>plate mail drybrush (leadbelcher? the one that's in between boltgun and silver)
>nuln oil
>plate mail drybrush away from the dark recesses
>nuln oil
>plate mail drybrush on the raised areas
>nuln oil
>plate mail highlights or silver if you want them really fucking bright
>>
>>43962986
I'm not the guy that posted the picture, but I've painted IW with pretty the same technique and result.
>>
>>43959453
This is almost exactly what I was going to say. You have to much of your accent color. But don't worry, this is all part of the learning process. The only real mistake you made imo is being new to the hobby and trying greenstuff. I am a year in and still afraid to try it out.
>>
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>>43928479

>dark, hd ratio wallpaper with no ads or watermarks
>this has not gone unnoticed

Thanks, OP.
>>
>>43930919

First, glue the model to the base, so you can hold the base while painting the mini. I glue ballast on the base second, but that's down to preference - there's no direct advantage to doing so.

HTH
>>
>>43950563
>>43962958

Oh, it's very simple:

>Black undercoat
>P3 Pig Iron (GW equivalent is Leadbelcher)
>Paint the gold and brass details
>Holy Agrax Earthshade Batman
>Nuln Oil

That's it.
>Very light drybrush of Pig Iron again
>>
>>43963626

Cool, thanks man! Keep us posted please
>>
>>43963626
both Agrax and Nuln oil? dayum
>>
>>43950966
Thanks. I'll try to get some progress and better pictures up today.
Thread posts: 345
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